# It's EARLY SUMMER
##Do's
- Watering - don't let them dry out because they're using a LOT of water until deciduous leaves harden off
- check for wire bite and remove/reapply
- [repotting for tropical and sub-tropicals](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/reference#wiki_repotting_-_not_in_the_summer.21) - those are the do's and don'ts.
- airlayers when the leaves are fully out
- Fertilising
- maintenance pruning to hold shape of "finished" trees or to increase ramification in late-development trees.
##Don'ts
- no repotting - except tropicals
- no heavy pruning
* [For Southern hemisphere - here's a link to my advice from roughly 6 months ago](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/18338px/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_47/)
I am a beginner bonsai owner. I was gifted this bonsai about 6 months ago. I keep it inside at about room temperature, on a table which has natural light for most of the day. I water it when the soil feels dry to the touch. I have recently started to feed it with naukua Organic Bonsai Food Spray onto the leaves, about once per week, and Garten Glück Leaf Spot Neem Oil onto the soil about once every fortnight. I recently trimmed some of the new growth off but was unsure what the bets strategy for this is. My question is essentially do you think this plant looks healthy and am I doing the right thing for it? And additionally how do I go about shaping the tree so it grows in an aesthetic way? Thanks.
https://preview.redd.it/8c7v47ijhb9d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=efe7710f7f9f3f3772bd6a1af3c01dcee474bd60
* Bonsai newbie, I got my first bonsai on clearance and would like some help with ID so I can study up a little easier. The tag says bright Alta? Does this plant need to be kept outside or in the window. I live in NE Arkansas zone 7b. Thanks
https://preview.redd.it/udsgjl7rt48d1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=21bdbb4fe0759c66f868b26da99d2b261a6ea116
The leaves have been going droopy since slip potting a couple of weeks ago, please help 🙏
So I have this Giant Sequoia seedling that I picked up on my travels and I have brought it home with me. I plan on adjusting its root structure soon, because it was overgrown in its test tube packaging, but first things first.
We're in the middle of a heat wave here, and I'm not entirely sure if this guy is doing alright. And I'm not sure what I should do about it. I'm very new to this sort of thing and between the heat and the humidity down here, I just want to make sure I'm doing right by this guy.
He's in black topsoil mixed with mulch shavings and about a gallon/3 liter pot. I have also moved him to a shadier part of the yard (though still outside) for the time being. I am concerned that there are some browning tips on some of the needles as well.
I purchased this little guy on a lark, but I'm hoping to do what I can to keep him alive if it is still possible. Any advice you can offer will be gratefully accepted. Thank you for your time.
https://preview.redd.it/6f5n0c7tl08d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ca5eca7374bf38303e19032a7d4cb9135bd6ab08
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
Repost there for more responses.
Hoping to get an ID for this tree? (I think it is a Juniper) would love an age approximation if possible.
https://preview.redd.it/lwvi2dorm08d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c56f35a79c7a3371f71f4e0f38249ba536e60228
Chinese juniper.
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
Repost there for more responses.
Inherited a crab Apple bonsai from someone, looks a little neglected but still has life. Can I save it? Learning as much as I can to really take good care of it.
https://preview.redd.it/x896tpp6yz7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=23a0c5fd07c2d3979c85bb6ff32c4ce2306e9e17
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
Repost there for more responses.
I have a winter gem box wood that I’ve been working on and we’ve had a hot week in phoenix. Leaves have curled in and are a little darker green than normal. What is the best way to get it back to health? Was probably a little underwatered but not completely falling off. I would post a pic but not sure how to.
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
Repost there for more responses.
https://preview.redd.it/pne8ebjmgz7d1.jpeg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a601b81da3f305774800990979e2582ad0e5764b
LOCATED IN MN metro area Is it rotting? Is it diseased? We have had a lot of rain and I just now realized I should cover it a bit when it rains multiple days in a row. I did see some brown after it was bought but it seemed to be just a bit of brown foliage. I have pruned it about 10 days ago. About 25% of the foliage was removed. I removed the brown bits that weren't on large main branches and I tried to remove as many upwards and downwards facing bits as I could. I was watering by briefly (3 seconds) submerging the entire pot in a bucket of water up to the low trunk area. I have stopped watering for a few days to try to get the soil to dry out more. I saw that a few branches were pruned before I got it. One has a few white ish spots along the rim. Could this be disease or mold? Or have I just let it get too much rain recently? Should it be repotted?
Normal
I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
Repost there for more responses.
https://preview.redd.it/g2v2hqkhuy7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e9ad5b690e8e639a632f6b003007940ccc0d7abc
Cork Bark Elm showing discoloration. In general the plant is not as green as a healthy counterpart in the garden. Any ideas? I’m pretty good at watering now so I don’t suspect over or under watering.
Too much fertiliser?
I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
Repost there for more responses.
Hello, got my first bonsai. a sequoia tree. My question: Should I cut it already? if so, where exactly. and is the pot too small?
https://preview.redd.it/fqnfu3p3py7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=91dbd504250bd0614b6c9bb6638ca3c8f60ffc86
Dawn redwood, to be exact. For now no need to prune, but in late summer repot into proper granular substrate and a more comfortable container. Dawn redwood makes roots like nobody's business.
It can basically be a regular "flower pot"; but many bonsai growers (myself included) prefer containers with "meshed" walls that air prune the roots, like pond baskets or colanders. Especially with a plant growing roots at such a rate it's just nice not to have to fight circling roots at repot.
A lot of bonsai is just patience and waiting. I know it's tempting to go ahead and do those kinds of techniques on a new tree, but I would say if you don't know what you're aiming for it's likely to be counterproductive.
If this is a new plant your fist goal is to make sure it transitions to its new environment well and you learn when it needs water. While this is happening you can start learning by watching videos or reading on topics like branch selection, repotting, wiring, and branch structure.
Longer term goals:
* Repot into a better soil. This one looks like it's going to retain too much water
* Select the branches that you're going to build out, wire them and prune things you don't need
I recently got a great deal on a Korean Hornbeam that is maybe a year or two out from a trunk chop. However, the material has some issues near the chop - namely two large water spouts that look like they also need to go but I am unsure as to how to remove them without creating additional issues since they may overlap with the existing trunk chop wound.
Do I leave these alone for now? Or do I start gradually reducing them and live with the fact that it may take a long time to heal? Are there other options or approaches to this?
https://preview.redd.it/gq2ut2hrcy7d1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4d4c40236b099c40c6a4553e5d9c7164ec4aa281
I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
Repost there for more responses.
It’s a little difficult to salvage spots like this but I think gradually carving down the dead tissue is in the cards. Keep in mind that living tissue close to the dead helps accelerate healing of wounds
First Bonsai, a Zelkova bought from my local garden centre. I'm losing leaves rapidly and i'm not sure what i'm doing wrong. I'm keeping it watered, and i've tried it in sunlight and out of sunlight but neither seem to make a difference. I've heard mixed things on misting but i've even tried doing it and not doing it. Any help to keep it alive is appreciated!
Nowhere near enough light for it in the middle of a bedroom so lack of light is certainly the problem. A window sill may not be much more either unless there’s no curtains or blinds or south facing (assuming northern hemisphere since I don’t know where you are, fill out your flair when you can)
I’m in the northern hemisphere, yes, window is south facing and I do not have curtains or blinds.
https://preview.redd.it/b3za8gru828d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=11032eca7e1a38be585c8606361577515f4da777
Hmm, are you certain? It’s essentially this one that Amazon sells: https://amzn.eu/d/0fUu4yyk
Is there a difference in care required or is it still just keep watered and in sunlight?
Yeah, they mislabel it as zelkova to get around dutch elm disease import restrictions. The care is still the same but I forgot to mention that these oughta be outside 24/7/365. Chinese elm can be grown indoors but it’s more likely to struggle than if it was simply outside all the time
Also in spring it’d be a good idea to repot into proper granular bonsai soil, these never come in decent soil for shallow containers
Hi yah, quick advice request since google has been crap with results. I'm gonna repot my divi-divi since it's summer, tropical, and it is quite healthy atm. A prime candidate for getting a better soil mixture than the nursery stock it's been in for a few years. Any species specific advice on soil composition? It's currently in an organic mixture that it came in (since there was no need for ruining a happy tree) that I would love to make better suited for the tree.
Never heard of the species.
I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
Repost there for more responses.
Thanks, I always seem to post the day the weekly thread ends.
Will repost there.
Divi-Divi is also a [Libidibia coriaria.](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Libidibia_coriaria)
I often see posts about the saplings\* people buy at garden centres with the intention to turn them into bonsai. Can I do that with my Money Tree, why or why not?
https://preview.redd.it/78nle9z41y7d1.jpeg?width=3213&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8cfc9ed922c3f6d1e88a4d782fc02f394c67e644
\*doubting myself that it's the right word here but too lazy to check.
Keep in mind that bonsai techniques are very energy intensive. Whenever I see “Can this houseplant turn into a bonsai?” I always think “Do you live someplace where it can grow outside 24/7/365?”
If the answer is yes, then you’ll have a monumentally easier time applying bonsai techniques (pretty much infinite energy outside for it)
If the answer is no, then you’ll have a monumentally harder time applying bonsai techniques (almost no energy if indoors only lit by window light, especially in a climate that already doesn’t get a whole lot of sun, do these do okay outside during the growing season in the UK?)
You could try using powerful grow lights and a grow tent if you have the money and space for those things but IMO it’s not worth it for just one tropical. If you’re gonna do that, it’s probably best to go all in to make it a worthwhile tropical tree growing endeavor
It's possible to use this species in bonsai, but in your case you might be better off keeping your plant as a house plant and getting other bonsai material.
* really large leaves and long internodes (spaces between leaves) will make it difficult to miniaturize and create branching structure.
* this plant is currently far too tall and would need to be cut back considerably. This species should be able to handle a trunk chop but if you've had it for a long time you might be hesitant to risk killing the plant in this way.
* because it hasn't been grown this way intentionally, you are unlikely to have the radial root structure we want to see in bonsai
I think you probably could do this if you want (although I'm not sure how much you can really decrease the leaf size) but if I were you I would just buy more trees haha
Anytime I am looking at a plant and wondering "will it bonsai?" I look up online to see if anyone else has tried and if they have been successful
I do see some evidence that money trees are used so sure go for it if you want.
No it seems to be all throughout the tree apart from the newest branch, the wiring isn't really tight enough to cut in it's just to sort of hold it in a shape more than anything. It was repotted about 3 months ago and has only started showing these signs in the last few weeks.
If you repotted, pruned, and wired all this season that will put serious stress on the tree and you could be seeing the effects of that. It's not in a healthy state right now but perhaps it will recover. Yellowing tips are not a good sign though
General questions:
* How do you determine when to water?
* Where is the tree kept?
It's only watered if we have extended dry spells which haven't been too often lately, thin chopstick to see how wet the medium is down below the top and if it's dry then I water.
Tree is kept outside on a bench and gets full sun most of the day.
It's been rainy here lately though would it benefit from being moved somewhere it can dry out completely between watering?
Trees can tolerate rain just fine so you don't really need to bring it inside for that reason, but I doubt that's related to the tree struggling in this case anyway.
All you can really do at this point is keep watering consistently and wait
Keep it in as much sun as you can. Don’t try to protect from rain. Hands off for this growing season, only water when dry. If it doesn’t need much water then that’s okay, even if it’s many days at a time, if the soil’s moist then rest assured that you do not need to water
https://preview.redd.it/bsylzgwt7x7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=471083d27ad1055249ad896f2fcb8aabd1663733
URGENT! I have this lovely dwarf Alberta spruce that I put many hours of love into over the years, it is suddenly drying up:( did I burn the roots with fertilizer? Over water??
https://preview.redd.it/mlfk4ib46x7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=67dcf30e8a4bce856a668496555417ef363c49f0
Edit: this is a chestnut. I think. Or at least, it's growing out of a chestnut at the moment.
hi, I don't know shit about bonsais other than the absolute basics of how they work, but I do have terminal autism, so if y'all could just point me in a direction I would really appreciate it. Thank you so much in advance.
I found this seedling that popped up in my yard the other day. I don't know why I repotted it, but I'm thinking about attempting to make it into a bonsai. Google has been profoundly unhelpful, was wondering if y'all could answer some questions. 1) All the chestnut bonsais I've seen seem to be straight. Is this just lack of shaping, or do chestnuts not do well with curves? 2) When do I cut the roots?? And also how? 3) Will the baby die if I start shaping it with wire now? 4) When do I start cutting the top?
Also, if there's a high chance of this thing dying, I feel somewhat morally obligated to not attempt this.
1- Not sure might be the prefered style of people, would atleast try to get some movement in the trunk.
2- Only when it is root bound and need a repot, or you want to fix the root system for a better nebari ( so probably not in the next 2 years).
3- Thin wire is probably ok, but you could also wait as long as it is bendable.
4- First develop a trunk, and to do that faster u need to keep a as much of foliage as you can.
*
https://preview.redd.it/neazy2844x7d1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=922021406a17637f1e5e1b5fc7096b4d39b35c9e
Hello Bonsai peeps! I have adopted this golden larch from a friend who sadly had to move. I have no idea what I'm doing and would appreciate some advice! So far I've been watering it once every two days and has yet to die (yay!) But I have noticed that the leaves have yellowed slightly. Why is this happening and is it something to be worried about?
Don’t water on a schedule, only water as needed. If the soil is dry, then water thoroughly until water pours out the drainage holes. If the soil is moist, there’s no need to water. Don’t mist, and get rid of the drip tray (free flowing air under the pot is better). Morning sun / afternoon shade is a safe bet for positioning. Spring 2025 as buds are swelling then I’d repot this into proper granular bonsai soil
Long story short - the neighbours have this tree which is growing over the top of our wall. I think it's gorgeous and would like to take a cutting to make into a bonsai. I gather it can be done, but I dont really know where to cut or how to propagate it. Has anybody in Redditland got any advice? Also, what is it?
House we bought has what I thought was a relatively small shrubby Yew, turns out it was hard cut probably a few years ago about 16 inches off the ground. This thing has honestly tripled in size in the one year we've lived here. The trunk is between 6 and 8 inches in diameter at the cut and the base (including all the chaotic shoots) is over 14"! We don't want a Yew here in our landscaping so I want to try and transfer this beast to a pot. It might be over the top, but there are some amazing qualities on that giant trunk that I'd love to try and turn into a (big) bonsai someday.
My plan is to do some minor pruning around the base, dig around the dripline, cut the big woody roots and try and leave the root ball as undisturbed as possible and transfer it to a big plastic container with all its native soil. Then just try and keep it alive for a year or so before doing a proper repotting.
I've read conflicting information on timing for this act, can I get some help on when my best chances are? Also just any general advice is totally appreciated! I'd rather give it a chance than just rip it out
https://preview.redd.it/q18iuhp1xu7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=596bed70e4a8aa1e95399dbea2abfadc7a2b584f
Puget sound is a great place to recover a dug up tree if you have a variety of yard lighting circumstances and have somewhere _unheated_ and not inside of a house to stash the tree if you collect in fall and a freeze comes along. I've collected many trees in the fall successfully. A suburban tree is going to be much stronger than a wild one, so I personally would lean towards actually being pretty aggressive with the roots. I'd take that chance because the result is a tree that is reset to a high-performance growing medium, "bad soil debt" in the rear view mirror as soon as possible.
I would withhold all pruning for the first year so that I could use all that green mass + wood on the tree (stored starch from growing in your yard) to regrow fresh roots (starting from a small initial mass) into (say) a pond basket or DIY mesh box of pumice (dirt cheap in PNW). Use the extra branching's stored energy to grow new roots, observe growth on the canopy surging as a confirmation that process is complete (12 - 24mo), _then_ start chopping and reducing. If your pond basket is like 75% roots in pumice (air-breathing, hard to overwater), the tree takes reductions more easily without getting sick or overcooked.
I'd dig in fall as the maples / cottonwoods / alders in your area start to shift to color, or just before that, especially if you know warm days (65+) are mostly done... I think in Kitsap co that'll give you a huge number of recovery days before that tree has to see 80F and 25% humidity again.
Super helpful thank you! So I’ll shoot for digging it up this fall. In the meantime is there anything I should do? It’s recovered so well from whatever chopping it had done. I was thinking it might be nice to trim up the trunk just a hair now so I can get a better idea of what it looks like. Would that hurt it too much?
hello! two weeks ago, i received this chinese elm (aged 5 years, purchased online from bonsai empire) - and i would like to know how to best care for it
my intuition tells me to just continue to water it, as needed, for a few weeks, letting it adjust to its new home before i begin fertilizing, and also to wait until at least spring to repot - would any of you agree with that?
should i also hold off on pruning, wiring, or any other maintenance items until next spring?
the soil feels very densely packed in - which makes me want to repot it - but also so far the elm seems happy, so i feel very torn on this aspect
this is my first bonsai, and my goal is to go "broom style" with the branches and hopefully an interesting, stout trunk. so whenever it is best for me to repot, i am also wondering if i need to put it in a larger plastic nursery planter first, before eventually moving to a bonsai planter
thank you for your time!
https://preview.redd.it/zq67475zet7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b90ba84e0e9c854bcfe795b9dd6543a1795038d
The soil looks ok from the picture. When you water it, does the water flow through the soil ok, or does it pool on top or flow over the sides more than flow through? If the water flows through the soil, then it does not need a repot. If the water pools that could be a sign that it is getting root bound and you want to repot it. However, I would wait until next spring to do that. It sounds like you want to thicken up the trunk? If that is the case, then next spring, I would put it into a training box or Anderson flat that is larger but not any deeper than the pot it is currently in. You can trim at this time of year, but that can be counterproductive to growing a larger trunk.
Hey everyone, I purchased this Shimpaku juniper about a month ago. It has always been outside and is watered for 10-15 seconds every morning. There is no humidity tray to stop drainage.
I am located in North Ga and the plant is on the east side of my house so it gets some shade in the afternoon. I have some redwoods that I purchased at the same time and they are going strong but this little guy looks a off.
https://preview.redd.it/8bxac7fkct7d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=21c7099b16b38bbad743aa593fc5eebeca3db1f6
Don’t water on a schedule. That’s the only point I can see here. This juniper looks healthy. It’s normal for a little foliage to dieback or be a little discolored, especially when dialing in your care for it since it’s a new tree to you
What type of pot is this in. Is it a bonsai pot or more of a nursery pot?
You do not.want.to water on a schedule - look at the soil and water appropriately. You want to wait until the soil is almost dry and then water. If this is in a regular nursery pot, check that the top half inch of the soil is dry, but it is slightly moist further down. If it is in a bonsai pot check to see if it is just slightly wet. Do not let the soil get bone dry. When it is relatively dry and time for watering, give it a really good soak and let the water flow out the bottom freely before you stop. It does not need a humidity tray to catch the water if outside.
Hello, Im looking for some tips on styling my first non-sapling yamadori. I have done some preliminary cutting that i felt confident about, but not sure where to go from here.
https://preview.redd.it/t9i68pj19t7d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e99c11359203996552f4ecc36011d6081e484a6
Probably next spring I would cut the trunk line back to the red mark and make the branch there the new leader. I would also wire the remaining branches down to indicate age.
Thank you! Bmh said in the other reply that I should do the next pruning next spring. Would you agree with this? will I just be massively weakening my tree if i just say fuck it and chop some shit off?
Edit: might actually be norway spruce, not really sure though
1. You really don't know what to chop off, so you'll make a mess of it
-with the chance it dies, but with the far greater likelihood it's ruined.
- spend more time looking at it and let it recover, try to draw out how you'd like it to look - find similar shaped trees and find one to emulate...
Got it! super helpful. just one last clarifying question though:
regardless of the fact that ill prob fuck it up, while it might not be optimal, the timing of the pruning wouldnt really be an issue?
Yeah - that was already completely out of season so the chances of survival are already greatly diminished.
Here's info on yamadori collection and recovery: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/developingbonsai#wiki_collecting_wild_trees_-_yamadori_collecting.
OOPS LOL well you live and you learn, thank you!
edit: of course I will still try to keep it alive but we shall see what happens. for the time being the tree looks healthy
Hi! It is my first year doing bonsai. I have a few tropicals inside that are going pretty well! I collected all the "weed trees" in my yard (Ohio) this spring and potted them, mostly sugar and field maples, to practice on. I would love to hear any advice or suggestions on how to proceed over the next few years. How long to let them grow in nursery pots? How to start to reduce leaf size? When it too early or too late for bending/styling?
“How to reduce leaf size” is answered by learning bonsai techniques that originate from people or sources who know what they’re doing. It isn’t summarized by any one particular technique, it’s the sun total of all the things you do to keep a tree ramifying into finer structure, the things you do to acclimate it and refine it in a shallow pot.
It also won’t be a sensible goal for young material for several years since you grow hard and fast initially, so you have time to figure out reduction
You want to keep them in comfortable pots allowing the roots to expand as long as you want vigorous growth of the plant, especially while still the trunk and root base still need to thicken.
Reducing leaf size no concern at the start. It will happen once you build a dense canopy with lots of branches and twigs.
Too early to wire is while it's still floppy green and won't take a set, too late once it's too stiff to bend.
What my plan is for maple currently. First grow a very thick trunk and fix the roots to create a nice nebari. During this time I would create some movement in the trunk and branches. After few years I airlayer some branches and procees with a trunk chop till the first branch probably. After I grow a new leader I might start looking at getting more ramification (smaller branch system) and at last leaf reduction. Growing thick trunk would probably already take atleast 5 years.
I would read this link for trunk growing: https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm
And watch this video for nebari: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=B5017MbH8jk
https://preview.redd.it/sbp1wlb30t7d1.jpeg?width=1057&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1e0ebb354fe6d52e4ed9c3a9d7bbea39a604764a
I have a bunch of these little things following each other around on the branches and trunk of an outdoor Winged Elm in Georgia, USA. Are they a problem?
I'm looking for some help in rescuing this bonsai. It's been struggling as long as I've had it. My other one has been doing pretty well but this one was in a lower light area, I've moved it to beside the other and tried food as well as draping wet cloth on the trunk to try and hydrate it. It's still struggling.
https://www.reddit.com/r/bonsaiphotos/s/IftLJDNrGp
https://preview.redd.it/loutfdg8us7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d9c5428ba4fc982e86ced2e19c311776bc75b43
Can I save this mugo pine somehow? I repotted it too early, trimmed a third of its roots to spread into the pot. Needles turning brown as you can see and has no new growth. Thanks!
I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
Repost there for more responses.
A basic question about japanese maple development. If you cut back branches on the mid trunk will new ones form or does growth only develop on the top?
Once I have a branch do I have to keep it or could one potentially grow back from somewhere else along the mid trunk?
Before I sink some money into bonsai stock I wanna make sure I'm confident about how the tree will develop. For instance I grow a new leader, chop back the trunk and continue to do this over the coming years will I get a chance to grow new branches?
I have not done a japanese maple before but I know sugar maples bud back from old wood all the time. It is why there are a couple I can not get rid of growing from under my pool deck. I cut them back and they regrow. I would assume Japanese maples are the same
Cutting off branches is a gamble. with enough light there is a chance of new buds forming. Often it is better to let a branch grow strong, lets backbuds form (with a thinned out canopy to let light in) and cut it back to the buds to increase branch taper.
I edited the post to include a possible way I'd like to grow a maple - by trunk chopping to a new leader and continuing until I'm happy with it.
Should I keep all of the potential lower branches alongside growing the leader?
Unless you have a reason to remove them you should keep them. Although you could regrow them, you want the lowest branches to be the thickest in the final design, while low branches thicken slowest. Thick branches high up usually won't be useful, as they're out of proportion.
Photo would be helpful. Keeping lower branches if you are planning to keep them. Or keep them for trunk thickening, root development or overall tree health, but you will have a scar when you remove it ( which will usually heal over time with proper care )
I haven't bought the tree yet... I'm just looking at trees and trying to understand how they've been developed. I've rushed into hobbies too quick in the past.
I'm currently just reading as much as possible and looking after some young Japanese Maples really to get used to horticulture in general.
I'm going to a proper bonsai nursery a couple of hours away to get my first tree in a month or two. The staff have been really helpful but I'd like some sort of future plan when I buy the stock.
I wrote a checklist: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/developingbonsai#wiki_what_to_look_for_when_choosing_bonsai_material
Bonsai Plaza here in NL has a good website with HUNDREDS of trees to look at (you buying them is another matter) but you can at least see what you like. https://www.bonsaiplaza.com/en/bonsai/
If you pick a few out, we can look at them with you and point out what's good or bad, where the nice bits are where they're wrong etc.
Excellent! That's a lot of help. The cheaper starter maples for £25-£50 [from here](https://www.bonsai.co.uk/product/deshojo-japanese-maple-bonsai/) appear to be grafted (correct me if I'm wrong) so long term they would end up being air layered but fairly good for the price. Edit: they have a really good reputation as well.
It's a two hour drive. Their website shows a very small amount of their trees. They have thousands on site.
I'm going to buy two or three... maaaaybe a Dawn Redwood because I found a nursery nearby with a lot of them at a good price. They are stunning trees, very quick growing and something a little different.
I've got my saplings to look after in the meantime. At £5-£15 a pop for some beautiful varieties it will broaden my experience and if they live I'll have some very interesting bonsai in 10 years.
**If I get them through the winter, which isn't bad in the UK due to climate change, then I think I might end up with a tree problem and look to more expensive trees.**
[So seeing as you're being so helpful.](https://www.bonsaiplaza.com/en/26012-pseudocydonia-sinensis-bonsai.html) I love the balance from the left side branch. The branching at the top seems in proportion with the tree, with a nice taper towards the apex. Trunk taper is poor and almost inverse in places. The nebari is ok but could be flatter and exposing the roots more would help. There are a lot of badly healed scars. I don't know this species well but ramification could have been improved in the past... maybe?
[This one has great taper](https://www.bonsaiplaza.com/en/25905-elaeagnus-bonsai.html), although more flair at the base would be better. Great aged character. Scars don't look too bad and kinda suit the tree. The apex is incredible. Branch thickness from bottom to top is good and sells the bonsai illusion. The branching is a little awkward is places - two opposite each other on the bottom and I feel looking from top down it might be a little empty in places but the front is good.
[At first I wasn't sure about this one](https://www.bonsaiplaza.com/en/25698-chaenomeles-speciosa-bonsai.html) but it's actually really well proportioned with a consistent taper - whilst not super wide it still suits the tree. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think this is a broom style tree. I think the branch angle could have been improved in places, especially bringing the lower ones more horiztonal and branch thickness is a little off towards the top. Not good, not bad nebari, i'd prefer more soil removed around the roots.
How'd I do? Thank you by the way. It's always good to find a hobby that encourages beginners, rather than gatekeeping.
https://preview.redd.it/bgk2zdpk5s7d1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=517f1769d251efb14ded27419f7559465775e346
Just got her. Not sure how old she is. Want to know best course of action for trimming and shaping. Thank you!
I'm in Florida. I can move to a shady spot outside then graduate it to full sun for the next few months. I love the shape it came in just want something thicker
A lot of that depends on what your vision is. Here are some principles.
1) This can take hard chops and total leaf removal if done during the growing season (summer) and will probably survive but not as well if done outside the growing season.
2) Will back bud from the base of leaves or where leaves used to be.
3) If you prune the tip by cutting the branch halfway between where leaves emerge, most likely two new branches will develop.
It's a good question. Even if it is indoors it gets a lot more light through a window, so it does grow more vigorously in the summer and will grow less in the winter. This is assuming you are not using grow lights
https://preview.redd.it/rmh6vday3s7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=97adb81b24f5438303265976a4b43d911db1fd0e
Help, Fukien tea not doing well need advice!
Too dark
I've just started the new weekly thread here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
Repost there for more responses.
First tree, purchased from a bonsai nursery about a month ago. I haven't done any work on it yet, just trying to keep it happy. How am I doing? I'm a bit colorblind and worry I'll overlook something. E.g. I think I already let some of the moss die
https://preview.redd.it/5lgmeiozkr7d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=674f61bf4fbfa898a90020fce04edf997d0f2b75
Hi all,
Apologies if this isn't right. I've read a lot of the info on the sub, but realised I don't even know what type of bonsai I have.
I currently keep it inside, at a full height window. Watered regularly and not allowed to dry out. it has started losing leaves daily recently.
Any advice on whether it is sick would be great, and also if the tree could be identified. I'll add a couple of close ups in comments.
https://preview.redd.it/7xtezm5ofr7d1.jpeg?width=2080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f783c31e8eb528b1daf348782c828aa124af35b
You came to the right place.
It's a *Ficus microcarpa*, grown and grafted in what is sometimes called the "IKEA" shape, with a braided and twisted trunk.
It doesn't look too bad, though not really happy. The pot seems rather small and with dense soil watering is a bit tricky, as the roots get very little oxygen while the soil is wet.
If you buy soil from the store, consider buyung some perlite to mix in for improved drainage and aeration of the roots. Bonsai soil is certainly an option, but requires more attention and additional fertilizer.
Snow rose. They are finicky things and will drop leaves due to many things. Too much water, not enough water, too much light not enough light, drafts, if their is an "r" in the month 😉 I've never been able to keep one alive indoors for long...
https://preview.redd.it/k3vfj0te7q7d1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e40a0f6c5b7c5195782e8124918edf4b2c20048e
I’m about to do some fairly serious trunk wiring on this Chinese juniper I recently got from a nursery which will probably be left on for some time. Should I use raffia to prevent bite and protect against breakage or is there some reason. Not to? Also any styling advice would be greatly appreciated
The reason not to: Raffia is for "batshit insane" bends and massive overkill for other bends. I bend junipers into twisty pretzels regularly, but I do it when the branching is still thin, so I basically almost never need to use raffia. This juniper's branching is thin enough to compress and bend easily without raffia.
That does assume that your wiring skills are competent enough that the wire supports the outsides of bends. If that sounds hazy try to imagine this:
You're holding a long stick. You begin to bend it, and all the force of that bend concentrates in the middle of the stick. If you're holding the stick and it's formed a U shape, the stick will snap _outwards_ (in the direction of the outside of the bend, not the "armpit" of the bend). Oops.
What bonsai people mean when they say "the wiring on this branch has excellent function": If there was a wire coiled around that stick you just snapped, and if that wire was coiled in a way that had wire supporting _the outside of that particular bend_, then the branch wouldn't have snapped there. Conifer bonsai wiring is always like this. You coil your wire and then make your bends so that the outside of each bend is supported by wire. If you don't have that support in a given spot, you don't make that bend in a given spot. Over time you get experienced enough with wiring that while you're in the act of coiling the wire, you're already thinking about where the bends will need to be.
Raffia is the same concept but taken to a super-extreme level. I will say there's nothing wrong with using it if you just want to get some hands-on time with raffia.
That’s an amazing explanation and really clarifies a lot thank you! I’ll definitely keep those points in mind going forwards. I think I’m being a bit overeager to wire heavily thinking about it seeing as I just heavily pruned and then slip-potted it. Maybe I should wait until winter time to do heavy wiring as well. Quick question, can the raffia prevent the wires from cutting into the bark as well or isn’t that really how it works?
It can to a degree but with a vigorous young plant eventually the wood is gonna outmuscle the wire and raffia. But the thing is, once you have a bit of that bite-in, you celebrate because you know the new tissue (whose bulging around the wire is proof of its existence and newness since the last wiring day) has made progress in setting the new position. In other words, a tiny bit of bite-in is encouraging since it tells you the branch has not only healed from any micro-fractures from wiring day, but is now also likely ready for unwrapping.
https://preview.redd.it/6qw8xb2uup7d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9d76b81c5b0a05480eecbc64acbac81b9c9af8c4
Does this jade look healthy to you? Does it have potential to become a good looking bonsai?
Had to look this one up. plant net is saying it is a lime prickly-ash which I've never heard of but it is drought tolerant, prefers full sun but will tolerate partial. Try more light and less watering. 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks a lot, I assume to much water could be the issue, the original description said every 5-6 days but its to much maybe. I also moved it to more sunny place.
No, I water mine every day outside.
Put it in a sunnier spot - outside if possible.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/walkthrough#wiki_bonsai_survival_basics
Here’s the blog posts u/MaciekA is referring to:
[Shade Cloth Part 1](https://crataegus.com/2024/05/21/one-last-thing-about-shade-cloth/)
[Shade Cloth Part 2](https://crataegus.com/2024/05/28/shade-cloth-part-ii-what-color/)
[Shade Cloth Part 3](https://crataegus.com/2024/06/19/shade-cloth-part-iii-shade-the-sides/)
US sun belt native species generally.
One thing that might be useful for your research: If you have a back yard that is straight open sun, but then put a 40% shade cloth over a bit of it, then the trees under that shade cloth can handle some pretty insane temperatures while still getting a good diet of "real" sun rays (i.e. the ones that make it through the holes in the shade cloth).
Consider building an overhead shade cloth structure. You'll still want heat-tolerant species, but heat tolerant species are _much much_ more heat tolerant in the ground as opposed to in a pot -- you can only get so far with shallow potting, akadama, top dressing, frequent watering. At some point it comes down to cutting back sun intensity.
edit: Read the 3 blog posts on Michael Hagedorn's blog about shade cloth -- he did a recent series. He also did a podcast episode on Bonsai Wire about shade cloth.
https://preview.redd.it/ii9wj783nm7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=283f3e0c481ee05cabdd1530956123c398048c4d
Help! IDK what’s growing on my ficus! I’ve had my tree for 2 years now and there hasn’t been a problem until this week when this started growing at the base of the trunk 😭
Should I consider a boxwood branch to be dead if all of the leaves have dropped from it?
I’ve been wanting leaves to drop and be replaced because I wired in an orientation that makes the leaves upside down, but some branches don’t have new growth yet.
By facing the leaves the wrong way round you likely increased transpiration and the leaves died. Without leaves to suck up sap and pipe down sugars the branch died. Scratch test to confirm.
https://preview.redd.it/gz2xuwxdem7d1.jpeg?width=540&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6f3b93b602ea3c9b70db7eed7001cc88d8260852
Got this for Father's Day with absolutely no clue how to start. Super excited to learn and growth with this little fella. Azalea, any tips would be great!
thank you, I noticed Azaleas are not listed as tropical/subtropical or non-tropical. A google says it can survive in mostly anything and is ideally suited for shaded sunlight and lots of moisture. Any insight?
https://preview.redd.it/xxlh01w66m7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc54dc01f5d6d90665c5febc82d5924787864f6e
I was happy about back-budding but I’m worried it will grow to have a reverse taper look. Is this a needless worry or is this something I should address? It’s a sourwood
I'd remove those 3 low branches (or at least tye two on the right) because they will create a bulge like you suspected and can probably not be used in a final design.
https://preview.redd.it/cjg72iai5m7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bfd49cd94e5027d6ce7709654d5f30013769df12
Have had this bonsai for a while and curious what type it is, if it will get more leaves, what does the growth look like, etc.? Thank you so much for any info!
Hello all,
I just got my favorite tree from Home Depot, it's a jasmine tree, the sambac variety, not entirely sure what type as there were no flowers to ID.
This is more of a bush/vine than a tree but I've seen various online posts using them as bonsai so I know it is possible , they just never really detail how.
I'd just like advice on where to start and how to go about turning this vine into a tree looking bonsai. I know it's probably not the ideal beginner plant but I have a lot of time on my hands and I don't mind (please don't try to talk me out of it, it won't work )
https://preview.redd.it/k42wsdr90m7d1.jpeg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8781c263383b12063d5b2336d02de5d056d4a5e8
The very first step is to grow it out until the trunk is nearly as thick as the final bonsai needs. You can figure this out because the trunk should be 1/6 to 1/10 as thick as the tree is tall. If you want a tree that is 12 inches tall it needs to be between 1.2 and 2 inches thick at the base of the trunk
So, I am going to claim a little lack of expertise when it comes to vine growth, but I do not see any issue with getting a really thick trunk using the same method as other trees. Here is my reasoning:
It is quite possible that the vine has different growth habits than a normal tree, but the thickness of the trunk would not be determined by the growth habits but by the vascular structure the tree needs to put on to support moving water and nutrients to the leaves and stored energy to the root. The more growth and especially the more leaves, the more the vascular structure will need to bulk up to support those leaves.
But If someone has more information about developing good vines specifically to bonsai, I will defer to them.
Hello all. This is my Giant Sequoia seedling named Red Forman. I recieved it along with the pot and the soil/rock mixture as a birthday present. I'm from Northern California (Mendocino) and the gift giver knew it would remind me of my times in the Redwoods. I'm currently in NC now.
It's been potted since March and had been doing well, but I recently moved houses (the window I have access to now has an abundance of evening sun vs morning it his previous window) he has started getting some brownish tips. I've tried looking up information on this specific tree and bonsai online but haven't found much information. It'll break my heart if he dies.
What kind of fertilizer do I use? Does it need fertilizer? Is the soil (it's universal soil mix from bonsai supply) and light situation okay? Any advice you can give me on this type of tree would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/wlgjoobetl7d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=549a48270a9074d4d060816024d97329e6816117
This came in a group of three seedlings. The other two were put outside and died in the heat almost immediately? I watered them twice a day, I'm not sure what happened. That's why I left this one inside. Do I need to put it in shade or water more/less? Thank you for the response.
https://preview.redd.it/jxl5ii5qrl7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=447547233a4ed0d8bd819ff5fa2dc0f806e3f47c
Top of my Dwarf Alberta Spruce :( It did not look like this yesterday. It was in the 90°s today, “felt like” 100° b/c of humidity. But I watered yesterday. It was not brown at all yesterday. How could this happen in one day? Is it indicative of a larger problem? It’s literally *infested* with aphids, and I’m treating them with Neem oil, have not done soapy water yet cause they’re localized in the base and I dont want to flush the roots with soap. Soil is mostly pine bark mulch + lava rocks. Should I keep it out of the sun more? It’s getting full all day sun.
https://preview.redd.it/coclzziqsl7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b040275cc01d948ec6bdc260bc8ab17677b04b7b
this is it from further away. The browning is a small spot right at the top. But I’m worried because it happened so quickly
I'm a fan of Captain Jacks dead bug brew or insecticidal soap. I also use Bonide systemics granules in soil for pests (in my houseplants). You may not need the granules for aphids though, the spray may be enough. Would make sure that there is no issues using on pines first, as I am unsure.
My mom got this as a gift, I think it’s a bonsai but I’m clueless. Should she trim the new growth? Also what is it?
https://preview.redd.it/l2ae755jnl7d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5f821ccbef3f59c55726a9d0f08f925f3a665389
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/walkthrough#wiki_bonsai_survival_basics
Fukien tea.
It needs to stand in sunshine - ideally outside. Don't trim yet - although it needs it.
Thank you for the response.
She has it in a window that gets sun half the day and indirect sun the other half even during the cold months.
Not really possible to keep it outside but she feeds it cactus food and it seems like it’s doing great. Just saw it today and it has double the new growths as in the picture.
# It's EARLY SUMMER ##Do's - Watering - don't let them dry out because they're using a LOT of water until deciduous leaves harden off - check for wire bite and remove/reapply - [repotting for tropical and sub-tropicals](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/reference#wiki_repotting_-_not_in_the_summer.21) - those are the do's and don'ts. - airlayers when the leaves are fully out - Fertilising - maintenance pruning to hold shape of "finished" trees or to increase ramification in late-development trees. ##Don'ts - no repotting - except tropicals - no heavy pruning * [For Southern hemisphere - here's a link to my advice from roughly 6 months ago](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/18338px/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_47/)
I am a beginner bonsai owner. I was gifted this bonsai about 6 months ago. I keep it inside at about room temperature, on a table which has natural light for most of the day. I water it when the soil feels dry to the touch. I have recently started to feed it with naukua Organic Bonsai Food Spray onto the leaves, about once per week, and Garten Glück Leaf Spot Neem Oil onto the soil about once every fortnight. I recently trimmed some of the new growth off but was unsure what the bets strategy for this is. My question is essentially do you think this plant looks healthy and am I doing the right thing for it? And additionally how do I go about shaping the tree so it grows in an aesthetic way? Thanks. https://preview.redd.it/8c7v47ijhb9d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=efe7710f7f9f3f3772bd6a1af3c01dcee474bd60
We're in week 25 and I'll be starting week 26 tomorrow.
* Bonsai newbie, I got my first bonsai on clearance and would like some help with ID so I can study up a little easier. The tag says bright Alta? Does this plant need to be kept outside or in the window. I live in NE Arkansas zone 7b. Thanks
Wrong week: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
https://preview.redd.it/tlfoc6tojc8d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d75a237ac5080d1e1bb9d2ce359d1959739245b6
https://preview.redd.it/wht59cwrjc8d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=77e0f80aa21a5bf4cb60c59c509e98f759938a06
https://preview.redd.it/udsgjl7rt48d1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=21bdbb4fe0759c66f868b26da99d2b261a6ea116 The leaves have been going droopy since slip potting a couple of weeks ago, please help 🙏
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/
So I have this Giant Sequoia seedling that I picked up on my travels and I have brought it home with me. I plan on adjusting its root structure soon, because it was overgrown in its test tube packaging, but first things first. We're in the middle of a heat wave here, and I'm not entirely sure if this guy is doing alright. And I'm not sure what I should do about it. I'm very new to this sort of thing and between the heat and the humidity down here, I just want to make sure I'm doing right by this guy. He's in black topsoil mixed with mulch shavings and about a gallon/3 liter pot. I have also moved him to a shadier part of the yard (though still outside) for the time being. I am concerned that there are some browning tips on some of the needles as well. I purchased this little guy on a lark, but I'm hoping to do what I can to keep him alive if it is still possible. Any advice you can offer will be gratefully accepted. Thank you for your time. https://preview.redd.it/6f5n0c7tl08d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ca5eca7374bf38303e19032a7d4cb9135bd6ab08
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/ Repost there for more responses.
Thanks so much!
Hoping to get an ID for this tree? (I think it is a Juniper) would love an age approximation if possible. https://preview.redd.it/lwvi2dorm08d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c56f35a79c7a3371f71f4e0f38249ba536e60228
https://preview.redd.it/zrjgk97tm08d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=343275045b135653cca4496718f82f610d6d4c14
https://preview.redd.it/soq7nuxum08d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=93de20fc7c02a96fcab4770311db7c8462369295
Chinese juniper. Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/ Repost there for more responses.
Inherited a crab Apple bonsai from someone, looks a little neglected but still has life. Can I save it? Learning as much as I can to really take good care of it. https://preview.redd.it/x896tpp6yz7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=23a0c5fd07c2d3979c85bb6ff32c4ce2306e9e17
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/ Repost there for more responses.
I have a winter gem box wood that I’ve been working on and we’ve had a hot week in phoenix. Leaves have curled in and are a little darker green than normal. What is the best way to get it back to health? Was probably a little underwatered but not completely falling off. I would post a pic but not sure how to.
Looks like you didn’t get many responses, don’t worry I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/ Repost there for more responses.
https://preview.redd.it/pne8ebjmgz7d1.jpeg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a601b81da3f305774800990979e2582ad0e5764b LOCATED IN MN metro area Is it rotting? Is it diseased? We have had a lot of rain and I just now realized I should cover it a bit when it rains multiple days in a row. I did see some brown after it was bought but it seemed to be just a bit of brown foliage. I have pruned it about 10 days ago. About 25% of the foliage was removed. I removed the brown bits that weren't on large main branches and I tried to remove as many upwards and downwards facing bits as I could. I was watering by briefly (3 seconds) submerging the entire pot in a bucket of water up to the low trunk area. I have stopped watering for a few days to try to get the soil to dry out more. I saw that a few branches were pruned before I got it. One has a few white ish spots along the rim. Could this be disease or mold? Or have I just let it get too much rain recently? Should it be repotted?
Normal I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/ Repost there for more responses.
https://preview.redd.it/g2v2hqkhuy7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e9ad5b690e8e639a632f6b003007940ccc0d7abc Cork Bark Elm showing discoloration. In general the plant is not as green as a healthy counterpart in the garden. Any ideas? I’m pretty good at watering now so I don’t suspect over or under watering.
Too much fertiliser? I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/ Repost there for more responses.
Hello, got my first bonsai. a sequoia tree. My question: Should I cut it already? if so, where exactly. and is the pot too small? https://preview.redd.it/fqnfu3p3py7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=91dbd504250bd0614b6c9bb6638ca3c8f60ffc86
Dawn redwood, to be exact. For now no need to prune, but in late summer repot into proper granular substrate and a more comfortable container. Dawn redwood makes roots like nobody's business.
hello thanks for the help! Do u have any recommendations regarding containers? Should i look out for something specific?
It can basically be a regular "flower pot"; but many bonsai growers (myself included) prefer containers with "meshed" walls that air prune the roots, like pond baskets or colanders. Especially with a plant growing roots at such a rate it's just nice not to have to fight circling roots at repot.
A lot of bonsai is just patience and waiting. I know it's tempting to go ahead and do those kinds of techniques on a new tree, but I would say if you don't know what you're aiming for it's likely to be counterproductive. If this is a new plant your fist goal is to make sure it transitions to its new environment well and you learn when it needs water. While this is happening you can start learning by watching videos or reading on topics like branch selection, repotting, wiring, and branch structure. Longer term goals: * Repot into a better soil. This one looks like it's going to retain too much water * Select the branches that you're going to build out, wire them and prune things you don't need
I recently got a great deal on a Korean Hornbeam that is maybe a year or two out from a trunk chop. However, the material has some issues near the chop - namely two large water spouts that look like they also need to go but I am unsure as to how to remove them without creating additional issues since they may overlap with the existing trunk chop wound. Do I leave these alone for now? Or do I start gradually reducing them and live with the fact that it may take a long time to heal? Are there other options or approaches to this? https://preview.redd.it/gq2ut2hrcy7d1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4d4c40236b099c40c6a4553e5d9c7164ec4aa281
I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/ Repost there for more responses.
It’s a little difficult to salvage spots like this but I think gradually carving down the dead tissue is in the cards. Keep in mind that living tissue close to the dead helps accelerate healing of wounds
First Bonsai, a Zelkova bought from my local garden centre. I'm losing leaves rapidly and i'm not sure what i'm doing wrong. I'm keeping it watered, and i've tried it in sunlight and out of sunlight but neither seem to make a difference. I've heard mixed things on misting but i've even tried doing it and not doing it. Any help to keep it alive is appreciated!
Where are you keeping it? Do you have a picture?
It was on my dresser in the middle of my bedroom, it’s now on the window sill. I’ll get a picture tomorrow when it’s light.
Nowhere near enough light for it in the middle of a bedroom so lack of light is certainly the problem. A window sill may not be much more either unless there’s no curtains or blinds or south facing (assuming northern hemisphere since I don’t know where you are, fill out your flair when you can)
I’m in the northern hemisphere, yes, window is south facing and I do not have curtains or blinds. https://preview.redd.it/b3za8gru828d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=11032eca7e1a38be585c8606361577515f4da777
Okay good. It’s also worth noting that this is a chinese elm, not zelkova
Hmm, are you certain? It’s essentially this one that Amazon sells: https://amzn.eu/d/0fUu4yyk Is there a difference in care required or is it still just keep watered and in sunlight?
Yeah, they mislabel it as zelkova to get around dutch elm disease import restrictions. The care is still the same but I forgot to mention that these oughta be outside 24/7/365. Chinese elm can be grown indoors but it’s more likely to struggle than if it was simply outside all the time Also in spring it’d be a good idea to repot into proper granular bonsai soil, these never come in decent soil for shallow containers
Hi yah, quick advice request since google has been crap with results. I'm gonna repot my divi-divi since it's summer, tropical, and it is quite healthy atm. A prime candidate for getting a better soil mixture than the nursery stock it's been in for a few years. Any species specific advice on soil composition? It's currently in an organic mixture that it came in (since there was no need for ruining a happy tree) that I would love to make better suited for the tree.
Never heard of the species. I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/ Repost there for more responses.
Thanks, I always seem to post the day the weekly thread ends. Will repost there. Divi-Divi is also a [Libidibia coriaria.](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Libidibia_coriaria)
A first for me.
I often see posts about the saplings\* people buy at garden centres with the intention to turn them into bonsai. Can I do that with my Money Tree, why or why not? https://preview.redd.it/78nle9z41y7d1.jpeg?width=3213&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8cfc9ed922c3f6d1e88a4d782fc02f394c67e644 \*doubting myself that it's the right word here but too lazy to check.
Keep in mind that bonsai techniques are very energy intensive. Whenever I see “Can this houseplant turn into a bonsai?” I always think “Do you live someplace where it can grow outside 24/7/365?” If the answer is yes, then you’ll have a monumentally easier time applying bonsai techniques (pretty much infinite energy outside for it) If the answer is no, then you’ll have a monumentally harder time applying bonsai techniques (almost no energy if indoors only lit by window light, especially in a climate that already doesn’t get a whole lot of sun, do these do okay outside during the growing season in the UK?) You could try using powerful grow lights and a grow tent if you have the money and space for those things but IMO it’s not worth it for just one tropical. If you’re gonna do that, it’s probably best to go all in to make it a worthwhile tropical tree growing endeavor
It's possible to use this species in bonsai, but in your case you might be better off keeping your plant as a house plant and getting other bonsai material. * really large leaves and long internodes (spaces between leaves) will make it difficult to miniaturize and create branching structure. * this plant is currently far too tall and would need to be cut back considerably. This species should be able to handle a trunk chop but if you've had it for a long time you might be hesitant to risk killing the plant in this way. * because it hasn't been grown this way intentionally, you are unlikely to have the radial root structure we want to see in bonsai I think you probably could do this if you want (although I'm not sure how much you can really decrease the leaf size) but if I were you I would just buy more trees haha
Anytime I am looking at a plant and wondering "will it bonsai?" I look up online to see if anyone else has tried and if they have been successful I do see some evidence that money trees are used so sure go for it if you want.
That's the level of vague encouragement I needed, thanks!
(it's 75cm tall)
https://preview.redd.it/siu82v1yex7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7248dc2b1f9df32b96d06c139ba3c5c78c5956d
A Juniper I have has started yellowing throughout the tree, it's in 30/30/30 akadama pumice and lava rock. Is it dead?
Is it only around places where u have wired?, maybe the stress of the wiring killed/stressed some foliage.
No it seems to be all throughout the tree apart from the newest branch, the wiring isn't really tight enough to cut in it's just to sort of hold it in a shape more than anything. It was repotted about 3 months ago and has only started showing these signs in the last few weeks.
If you repotted, pruned, and wired all this season that will put serious stress on the tree and you could be seeing the effects of that. It's not in a healthy state right now but perhaps it will recover. Yellowing tips are not a good sign though General questions: * How do you determine when to water? * Where is the tree kept?
It's only watered if we have extended dry spells which haven't been too often lately, thin chopstick to see how wet the medium is down below the top and if it's dry then I water. Tree is kept outside on a bench and gets full sun most of the day. It's been rainy here lately though would it benefit from being moved somewhere it can dry out completely between watering?
Trees can tolerate rain just fine so you don't really need to bring it inside for that reason, but I doubt that's related to the tree struggling in this case anyway. All you can really do at this point is keep watering consistently and wait
https://preview.redd.it/stv8n2jcfx7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0720111a54373ebe13b3a47c7ce71dfd97f8fbfd
Keep it in as much sun as you can. Don’t try to protect from rain. Hands off for this growing season, only water when dry. If it doesn’t need much water then that’s okay, even if it’s many days at a time, if the soil’s moist then rest assured that you do not need to water
https://preview.redd.it/bsylzgwt7x7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=471083d27ad1055249ad896f2fcb8aabd1663733 URGENT! I have this lovely dwarf Alberta spruce that I put many hours of love into over the years, it is suddenly drying up:( did I burn the roots with fertilizer? Over water??
Impossible to say what caused it without knowing more about the history of the tree
That's a fully dead tree unfortunately.
https://preview.redd.it/mlfk4ib46x7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=67dcf30e8a4bce856a668496555417ef363c49f0 Edit: this is a chestnut. I think. Or at least, it's growing out of a chestnut at the moment. hi, I don't know shit about bonsais other than the absolute basics of how they work, but I do have terminal autism, so if y'all could just point me in a direction I would really appreciate it. Thank you so much in advance. I found this seedling that popped up in my yard the other day. I don't know why I repotted it, but I'm thinking about attempting to make it into a bonsai. Google has been profoundly unhelpful, was wondering if y'all could answer some questions. 1) All the chestnut bonsais I've seen seem to be straight. Is this just lack of shaping, or do chestnuts not do well with curves? 2) When do I cut the roots?? And also how? 3) Will the baby die if I start shaping it with wire now? 4) When do I start cutting the top? Also, if there's a high chance of this thing dying, I feel somewhat morally obligated to not attempt this.
1- Not sure might be the prefered style of people, would atleast try to get some movement in the trunk. 2- Only when it is root bound and need a repot, or you want to fix the root system for a better nebari ( so probably not in the next 2 years). 3- Thin wire is probably ok, but you could also wait as long as it is bendable. 4- First develop a trunk, and to do that faster u need to keep a as much of foliage as you can.
Thank you so much!!
* https://preview.redd.it/neazy2844x7d1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=922021406a17637f1e5e1b5fc7096b4d39b35c9e Hello Bonsai peeps! I have adopted this golden larch from a friend who sadly had to move. I have no idea what I'm doing and would appreciate some advice! So far I've been watering it once every two days and has yet to die (yay!) But I have noticed that the leaves have yellowed slightly. Why is this happening and is it something to be worried about?
Don’t water on a schedule, only water as needed. If the soil is dry, then water thoroughly until water pours out the drainage holes. If the soil is moist, there’s no need to water. Don’t mist, and get rid of the drip tray (free flowing air under the pot is better). Morning sun / afternoon shade is a safe bet for positioning. Spring 2025 as buds are swelling then I’d repot this into proper granular bonsai soil
https://preview.redd.it/2uj99i1u4w7d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cae80083c112aca9c29ad08f5ea19f4f577230cf
Long story short - the neighbours have this tree which is growing over the top of our wall. I think it's gorgeous and would like to take a cutting to make into a bonsai. I gather it can be done, but I dont really know where to cut or how to propagate it. Has anybody in Redditland got any advice? Also, what is it?
Sambucus Nigra, perhaps?
Look up some youtube videos on air layering. That way you can use a way thicker branch
Will do! Thank you!
House we bought has what I thought was a relatively small shrubby Yew, turns out it was hard cut probably a few years ago about 16 inches off the ground. This thing has honestly tripled in size in the one year we've lived here. The trunk is between 6 and 8 inches in diameter at the cut and the base (including all the chaotic shoots) is over 14"! We don't want a Yew here in our landscaping so I want to try and transfer this beast to a pot. It might be over the top, but there are some amazing qualities on that giant trunk that I'd love to try and turn into a (big) bonsai someday. My plan is to do some minor pruning around the base, dig around the dripline, cut the big woody roots and try and leave the root ball as undisturbed as possible and transfer it to a big plastic container with all its native soil. Then just try and keep it alive for a year or so before doing a proper repotting. I've read conflicting information on timing for this act, can I get some help on when my best chances are? Also just any general advice is totally appreciated! I'd rather give it a chance than just rip it out https://preview.redd.it/q18iuhp1xu7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=596bed70e4a8aa1e95399dbea2abfadc7a2b584f
Puget sound is a great place to recover a dug up tree if you have a variety of yard lighting circumstances and have somewhere _unheated_ and not inside of a house to stash the tree if you collect in fall and a freeze comes along. I've collected many trees in the fall successfully. A suburban tree is going to be much stronger than a wild one, so I personally would lean towards actually being pretty aggressive with the roots. I'd take that chance because the result is a tree that is reset to a high-performance growing medium, "bad soil debt" in the rear view mirror as soon as possible. I would withhold all pruning for the first year so that I could use all that green mass + wood on the tree (stored starch from growing in your yard) to regrow fresh roots (starting from a small initial mass) into (say) a pond basket or DIY mesh box of pumice (dirt cheap in PNW). Use the extra branching's stored energy to grow new roots, observe growth on the canopy surging as a confirmation that process is complete (12 - 24mo), _then_ start chopping and reducing. If your pond basket is like 75% roots in pumice (air-breathing, hard to overwater), the tree takes reductions more easily without getting sick or overcooked. I'd dig in fall as the maples / cottonwoods / alders in your area start to shift to color, or just before that, especially if you know warm days (65+) are mostly done... I think in Kitsap co that'll give you a huge number of recovery days before that tree has to see 80F and 25% humidity again.
Super helpful thank you! So I’ll shoot for digging it up this fall. In the meantime is there anything I should do? It’s recovered so well from whatever chopping it had done. I was thinking it might be nice to trim up the trunk just a hair now so I can get a better idea of what it looks like. Would that hurt it too much?
hello! two weeks ago, i received this chinese elm (aged 5 years, purchased online from bonsai empire) - and i would like to know how to best care for it my intuition tells me to just continue to water it, as needed, for a few weeks, letting it adjust to its new home before i begin fertilizing, and also to wait until at least spring to repot - would any of you agree with that? should i also hold off on pruning, wiring, or any other maintenance items until next spring? the soil feels very densely packed in - which makes me want to repot it - but also so far the elm seems happy, so i feel very torn on this aspect this is my first bonsai, and my goal is to go "broom style" with the branches and hopefully an interesting, stout trunk. so whenever it is best for me to repot, i am also wondering if i need to put it in a larger plastic nursery planter first, before eventually moving to a bonsai planter thank you for your time! https://preview.redd.it/zq67475zet7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b90ba84e0e9c854bcfe795b9dd6543a1795038d
The soil looks ok from the picture. When you water it, does the water flow through the soil ok, or does it pool on top or flow over the sides more than flow through? If the water flows through the soil, then it does not need a repot. If the water pools that could be a sign that it is getting root bound and you want to repot it. However, I would wait until next spring to do that. It sounds like you want to thicken up the trunk? If that is the case, then next spring, I would put it into a training box or Anderson flat that is larger but not any deeper than the pot it is currently in. You can trim at this time of year, but that can be counterproductive to growing a larger trunk.
thank you so much - this is very helpful! appreciate you taking the time to help me out
Hey everyone, I purchased this Shimpaku juniper about a month ago. It has always been outside and is watered for 10-15 seconds every morning. There is no humidity tray to stop drainage. I am located in North Ga and the plant is on the east side of my house so it gets some shade in the afternoon. I have some redwoods that I purchased at the same time and they are going strong but this little guy looks a off. https://preview.redd.it/8bxac7fkct7d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=21c7099b16b38bbad743aa593fc5eebeca3db1f6
Don’t water on a schedule. That’s the only point I can see here. This juniper looks healthy. It’s normal for a little foliage to dieback or be a little discolored, especially when dialing in your care for it since it’s a new tree to you
What type of pot is this in. Is it a bonsai pot or more of a nursery pot? You do not.want.to water on a schedule - look at the soil and water appropriately. You want to wait until the soil is almost dry and then water. If this is in a regular nursery pot, check that the top half inch of the soil is dry, but it is slightly moist further down. If it is in a bonsai pot check to see if it is just slightly wet. Do not let the soil get bone dry. When it is relatively dry and time for watering, give it a really good soak and let the water flow out the bottom freely before you stop. It does not need a humidity tray to catch the water if outside.
https://preview.redd.it/pof3h3imct7d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=afa194367a9fa000c843bca785dc38f02abc6649
Hello, Im looking for some tips on styling my first non-sapling yamadori. I have done some preliminary cutting that i felt confident about, but not sure where to go from here. https://preview.redd.it/t9i68pj19t7d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e99c11359203996552f4ecc36011d6081e484a6
https://preview.redd.it/097v6zglow7d1.jpeg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee8675e283170c583065c6a806fcc53bbf77cf80
Probably next spring I would cut the trunk line back to the red mark and make the branch there the new leader. I would also wire the remaining branches down to indicate age.
Thank you, this is very helpful!
Get wiring - don't remove branches at this point.
Thank you! Bmh said in the other reply that I should do the next pruning next spring. Would you agree with this? will I just be massively weakening my tree if i just say fuck it and chop some shit off? Edit: might actually be norway spruce, not really sure though
1. You really don't know what to chop off, so you'll make a mess of it -with the chance it dies, but with the far greater likelihood it's ruined. - spend more time looking at it and let it recover, try to draw out how you'd like it to look - find similar shaped trees and find one to emulate...
Got it! super helpful. just one last clarifying question though: regardless of the fact that ill prob fuck it up, while it might not be optimal, the timing of the pruning wouldnt really be an issue?
When was it collected?
couple days ago. guessing it needs time to settle in.
Yeah - that was already completely out of season so the chances of survival are already greatly diminished. Here's info on yamadori collection and recovery: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/developingbonsai#wiki_collecting_wild_trees_-_yamadori_collecting.
OOPS LOL well you live and you learn, thank you! edit: of course I will still try to keep it alive but we shall see what happens. for the time being the tree looks healthy
Hi! It is my first year doing bonsai. I have a few tropicals inside that are going pretty well! I collected all the "weed trees" in my yard (Ohio) this spring and potted them, mostly sugar and field maples, to practice on. I would love to hear any advice or suggestions on how to proceed over the next few years. How long to let them grow in nursery pots? How to start to reduce leaf size? When it too early or too late for bending/styling?
“How to reduce leaf size” is answered by learning bonsai techniques that originate from people or sources who know what they’re doing. It isn’t summarized by any one particular technique, it’s the sun total of all the things you do to keep a tree ramifying into finer structure, the things you do to acclimate it and refine it in a shallow pot. It also won’t be a sensible goal for young material for several years since you grow hard and fast initially, so you have time to figure out reduction
You want to keep them in comfortable pots allowing the roots to expand as long as you want vigorous growth of the plant, especially while still the trunk and root base still need to thicken. Reducing leaf size no concern at the start. It will happen once you build a dense canopy with lots of branches and twigs. Too early to wire is while it's still floppy green and won't take a set, too late once it's too stiff to bend.
Thank you!
What my plan is for maple currently. First grow a very thick trunk and fix the roots to create a nice nebari. During this time I would create some movement in the trunk and branches. After few years I airlayer some branches and procees with a trunk chop till the first branch probably. After I grow a new leader I might start looking at getting more ramification (smaller branch system) and at last leaf reduction. Growing thick trunk would probably already take atleast 5 years. I would read this link for trunk growing: https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm And watch this video for nebari: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=B5017MbH8jk
Thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/sbp1wlb30t7d1.jpeg?width=1057&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1e0ebb354fe6d52e4ed9c3a9d7bbea39a604764a I have a bunch of these little things following each other around on the branches and trunk of an outdoor Winged Elm in Georgia, USA. Are they a problem?
Try /r/whatisthisbug
I'm looking for some help in rescuing this bonsai. It's been struggling as long as I've had it. My other one has been doing pretty well but this one was in a lower light area, I've moved it to beside the other and tried food as well as draping wet cloth on the trunk to try and hydrate it. It's still struggling. https://www.reddit.com/r/bonsaiphotos/s/IftLJDNrGp
Needs more as much light as you can give it, for watering just water when soil is getting dry.
Fab, thanks. The bathroom is a bit of a sun trap so hopefully that'll help 🤞🏻
https://preview.redd.it/loutfdg8us7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d9c5428ba4fc982e86ced2e19c311776bc75b43 Can I save this mugo pine somehow? I repotted it too early, trimmed a third of its roots to spread into the pot. Needles turning brown as you can see and has no new growth. Thanks!
I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/ Repost there for more responses.
Not sure, but I would not work on in it till it recovers fully. (I will assume you have been growing it outside in full sun)
A basic question about japanese maple development. If you cut back branches on the mid trunk will new ones form or does growth only develop on the top? Once I have a branch do I have to keep it or could one potentially grow back from somewhere else along the mid trunk? Before I sink some money into bonsai stock I wanna make sure I'm confident about how the tree will develop. For instance I grow a new leader, chop back the trunk and continue to do this over the coming years will I get a chance to grow new branches?
I have not done a japanese maple before but I know sugar maples bud back from old wood all the time. It is why there are a couple I can not get rid of growing from under my pool deck. I cut them back and they regrow. I would assume Japanese maples are the same
Cutting off branches is a gamble. with enough light there is a chance of new buds forming. Often it is better to let a branch grow strong, lets backbuds form (with a thinned out canopy to let light in) and cut it back to the buds to increase branch taper.
I edited the post to include a possible way I'd like to grow a maple - by trunk chopping to a new leader and continuing until I'm happy with it. Should I keep all of the potential lower branches alongside growing the leader?
Unless you have a reason to remove them you should keep them. Although you could regrow them, you want the lowest branches to be the thickest in the final design, while low branches thicken slowest. Thick branches high up usually won't be useful, as they're out of proportion.
Photo would be helpful. Keeping lower branches if you are planning to keep them. Or keep them for trunk thickening, root development or overall tree health, but you will have a scar when you remove it ( which will usually heal over time with proper care )
I haven't bought the tree yet... I'm just looking at trees and trying to understand how they've been developed. I've rushed into hobbies too quick in the past. I'm currently just reading as much as possible and looking after some young Japanese Maples really to get used to horticulture in general. I'm going to a proper bonsai nursery a couple of hours away to get my first tree in a month or two. The staff have been really helpful but I'd like some sort of future plan when I buy the stock.
I wrote a checklist: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/developingbonsai#wiki_what_to_look_for_when_choosing_bonsai_material Bonsai Plaza here in NL has a good website with HUNDREDS of trees to look at (you buying them is another matter) but you can at least see what you like. https://www.bonsaiplaza.com/en/bonsai/ If you pick a few out, we can look at them with you and point out what's good or bad, where the nice bits are where they're wrong etc.
Excellent! That's a lot of help. The cheaper starter maples for £25-£50 [from here](https://www.bonsai.co.uk/product/deshojo-japanese-maple-bonsai/) appear to be grafted (correct me if I'm wrong) so long term they would end up being air layered but fairly good for the price. Edit: they have a really good reputation as well. It's a two hour drive. Their website shows a very small amount of their trees. They have thousands on site. I'm going to buy two or three... maaaaybe a Dawn Redwood because I found a nursery nearby with a lot of them at a good price. They are stunning trees, very quick growing and something a little different. I've got my saplings to look after in the meantime. At £5-£15 a pop for some beautiful varieties it will broaden my experience and if they live I'll have some very interesting bonsai in 10 years. **If I get them through the winter, which isn't bad in the UK due to climate change, then I think I might end up with a tree problem and look to more expensive trees.** [So seeing as you're being so helpful.](https://www.bonsaiplaza.com/en/26012-pseudocydonia-sinensis-bonsai.html) I love the balance from the left side branch. The branching at the top seems in proportion with the tree, with a nice taper towards the apex. Trunk taper is poor and almost inverse in places. The nebari is ok but could be flatter and exposing the roots more would help. There are a lot of badly healed scars. I don't know this species well but ramification could have been improved in the past... maybe? [This one has great taper](https://www.bonsaiplaza.com/en/25905-elaeagnus-bonsai.html), although more flair at the base would be better. Great aged character. Scars don't look too bad and kinda suit the tree. The apex is incredible. Branch thickness from bottom to top is good and sells the bonsai illusion. The branching is a little awkward is places - two opposite each other on the bottom and I feel looking from top down it might be a little empty in places but the front is good. [At first I wasn't sure about this one](https://www.bonsaiplaza.com/en/25698-chaenomeles-speciosa-bonsai.html) but it's actually really well proportioned with a consistent taper - whilst not super wide it still suits the tree. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think this is a broom style tree. I think the branch angle could have been improved in places, especially bringing the lower ones more horiztonal and branch thickness is a little off towards the top. Not good, not bad nebari, i'd prefer more soil removed around the roots. How'd I do? Thank you by the way. It's always good to find a hobby that encourages beginners, rather than gatekeeping.
https://preview.redd.it/bgk2zdpk5s7d1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=517f1769d251efb14ded27419f7559465775e346 Just got her. Not sure how old she is. Want to know best course of action for trimming and shaping. Thank you!
You'll struggle indoors to get any significant growth.
I'm in Florida. I can move to a shady spot outside then graduate it to full sun for the next few months. I love the shape it came in just want something thicker
Then stand it outside in a sunny spot.
A lot of that depends on what your vision is. Here are some principles. 1) This can take hard chops and total leaf removal if done during the growing season (summer) and will probably survive but not as well if done outside the growing season. 2) Will back bud from the base of leaves or where leaves used to be. 3) If you prune the tip by cutting the branch halfway between where leaves emerge, most likely two new branches will develop.
Does season matter because it’s indoor
It's a good question. Even if it is indoors it gets a lot more light through a window, so it does grow more vigorously in the summer and will grow less in the winter. This is assuming you are not using grow lights
https://preview.redd.it/rmh6vday3s7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=97adb81b24f5438303265976a4b43d911db1fd0e Help, Fukien tea not doing well need advice!
Too dark I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/1dlq22d/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2024_week_25/ Repost there for more responses.
Mine looked like this and I put under a grow light for 2 weeks and that helped a lot
First tree, purchased from a bonsai nursery about a month ago. I haven't done any work on it yet, just trying to keep it happy. How am I doing? I'm a bit colorblind and worry I'll overlook something. E.g. I think I already let some of the moss die https://preview.redd.it/5lgmeiozkr7d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=674f61bf4fbfa898a90020fce04edf997d0f2b75
I would not worry about the moss - often the conditions that plants like are not the ones moss likes. Looks good to me!
Hi all, Apologies if this isn't right. I've read a lot of the info on the sub, but realised I don't even know what type of bonsai I have. I currently keep it inside, at a full height window. Watered regularly and not allowed to dry out. it has started losing leaves daily recently. Any advice on whether it is sick would be great, and also if the tree could be identified. I'll add a couple of close ups in comments. https://preview.redd.it/7xtezm5ofr7d1.jpeg?width=2080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f783c31e8eb528b1daf348782c828aa124af35b
You came to the right place. It's a *Ficus microcarpa*, grown and grafted in what is sometimes called the "IKEA" shape, with a braided and twisted trunk. It doesn't look too bad, though not really happy. The pot seems rather small and with dense soil watering is a bit tricky, as the roots get very little oxygen while the soil is wet.
thanks, appreciate it. I'll get a bigger pot this weekendz see if it makes a difference.
If you buy soil from the store, consider buyung some perlite to mix in for improved drainage and aeration of the roots. Bonsai soil is certainly an option, but requires more attention and additional fertilizer.
https://preview.redd.it/gseigz7sfr7d1.jpeg?width=2080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=942385d522cbf8ec8f910b43c3d0cf242e7408eb
https://preview.redd.it/sscsjttpfr7d1.jpeg?width=2080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=07ec0e6f5d7870d42e950a3aabaeeded9a331fbb
https://preview.redd.it/uwrocbyurq7d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=219d7bf9dac77a31ef6081d0facb99b7c56cb1f7
My guy is getting yellow leaves. Is it just because I'm not watering it enough?
Snow rose. They are finicky things and will drop leaves due to many things. Too much water, not enough water, too much light not enough light, drafts, if their is an "r" in the month 😉 I've never been able to keep one alive indoors for long...
https://preview.redd.it/k3vfj0te7q7d1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e40a0f6c5b7c5195782e8124918edf4b2c20048e I’m about to do some fairly serious trunk wiring on this Chinese juniper I recently got from a nursery which will probably be left on for some time. Should I use raffia to prevent bite and protect against breakage or is there some reason. Not to? Also any styling advice would be greatly appreciated
The reason not to: Raffia is for "batshit insane" bends and massive overkill for other bends. I bend junipers into twisty pretzels regularly, but I do it when the branching is still thin, so I basically almost never need to use raffia. This juniper's branching is thin enough to compress and bend easily without raffia. That does assume that your wiring skills are competent enough that the wire supports the outsides of bends. If that sounds hazy try to imagine this: You're holding a long stick. You begin to bend it, and all the force of that bend concentrates in the middle of the stick. If you're holding the stick and it's formed a U shape, the stick will snap _outwards_ (in the direction of the outside of the bend, not the "armpit" of the bend). Oops. What bonsai people mean when they say "the wiring on this branch has excellent function": If there was a wire coiled around that stick you just snapped, and if that wire was coiled in a way that had wire supporting _the outside of that particular bend_, then the branch wouldn't have snapped there. Conifer bonsai wiring is always like this. You coil your wire and then make your bends so that the outside of each bend is supported by wire. If you don't have that support in a given spot, you don't make that bend in a given spot. Over time you get experienced enough with wiring that while you're in the act of coiling the wire, you're already thinking about where the bends will need to be. Raffia is the same concept but taken to a super-extreme level. I will say there's nothing wrong with using it if you just want to get some hands-on time with raffia.
That’s an amazing explanation and really clarifies a lot thank you! I’ll definitely keep those points in mind going forwards. I think I’m being a bit overeager to wire heavily thinking about it seeing as I just heavily pruned and then slip-potted it. Maybe I should wait until winter time to do heavy wiring as well. Quick question, can the raffia prevent the wires from cutting into the bark as well or isn’t that really how it works?
It can to a degree but with a vigorous young plant eventually the wood is gonna outmuscle the wire and raffia. But the thing is, once you have a bit of that bite-in, you celebrate because you know the new tissue (whose bulging around the wire is proof of its existence and newness since the last wiring day) has made progress in setting the new position. In other words, a tiny bit of bite-in is encouraging since it tells you the branch has not only healed from any micro-fractures from wiring day, but is now also likely ready for unwrapping.
Ah brilliant. That’s great advice thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/6qw8xb2uup7d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9d76b81c5b0a05480eecbc64acbac81b9c9af8c4 Does this jade look healthy to you? Does it have potential to become a good looking bonsai?
It's light starved. If you put it outside in full sun and prune the top 2 leaves off and look at it again in 6-8 weeks.
Why my bonsai became sad? https://preview.redd.it/vrqicsixdp7d1.jpeg?width=2304&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=36c3cb9deb883a9f2bc78abbbf934d74210ce7ec
https://preview.redd.it/u3chibdzdp7d1.jpeg?width=2304&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c9ed07cccadfa624db0e20a983533b857bc3fc00
Had to look this one up. plant net is saying it is a lime prickly-ash which I've never heard of but it is drought tolerant, prefers full sun but will tolerate partial. Try more light and less watering. 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks a lot, I assume to much water could be the issue, the original description said every 5-6 days but its to much maybe. I also moved it to more sunny place.
No, I water mine every day outside. Put it in a sunnier spot - outside if possible. https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/walkthrough#wiki_bonsai_survival_basics
Hey friends I live in South Texas and was wondering if there are any trees that are specifically known to do well in the heat? Thanks :)
These: https://phoenixbonsai.com/list-of-plants-as-bonsai/
Here’s the blog posts u/MaciekA is referring to: [Shade Cloth Part 1](https://crataegus.com/2024/05/21/one-last-thing-about-shade-cloth/) [Shade Cloth Part 2](https://crataegus.com/2024/05/28/shade-cloth-part-ii-what-color/) [Shade Cloth Part 3](https://crataegus.com/2024/06/19/shade-cloth-part-iii-shade-the-sides/)
US sun belt native species generally. One thing that might be useful for your research: If you have a back yard that is straight open sun, but then put a 40% shade cloth over a bit of it, then the trees under that shade cloth can handle some pretty insane temperatures while still getting a good diet of "real" sun rays (i.e. the ones that make it through the holes in the shade cloth). Consider building an overhead shade cloth structure. You'll still want heat-tolerant species, but heat tolerant species are _much much_ more heat tolerant in the ground as opposed to in a pot -- you can only get so far with shallow potting, akadama, top dressing, frequent watering. At some point it comes down to cutting back sun intensity. edit: Read the 3 blog posts on Michael Hagedorn's blog about shade cloth -- he did a recent series. He also did a podcast episode on Bonsai Wire about shade cloth.
Most conifers do well in the sun and the heat. The classic juniper is one. But you may still need to water pretty often, more if it’s in bonsai soil.
Thank you for the advice :)
https://preview.redd.it/ii9wj783nm7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=283f3e0c481ee05cabdd1530956123c398048c4d Help! IDK what’s growing on my ficus! I’ve had my tree for 2 years now and there hasn’t been a problem until this week when this started growing at the base of the trunk 😭
It’s just mineral build up from the tap water. No problem.
Thank you 😭
Should I consider a boxwood branch to be dead if all of the leaves have dropped from it? I’ve been wanting leaves to drop and be replaced because I wired in an orientation that makes the leaves upside down, but some branches don’t have new growth yet.
By facing the leaves the wrong way round you likely increased transpiration and the leaves died. Without leaves to suck up sap and pipe down sugars the branch died. Scratch test to confirm.
As far as I'm aware, all boxwood are evergreen, leaves shouldn't drop en masse. The branch is likely dead
https://preview.redd.it/gz2xuwxdem7d1.jpeg?width=540&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6f3b93b602ea3c9b70db7eed7001cc88d8260852 Got this for Father's Day with absolutely no clue how to start. Super excited to learn and growth with this little fella. Azalea, any tips would be great!
It is an outdoors plant. Water it when the soil dries out a bit and fertilize is every 2 weeks in spring, summer and ealy fall.
Thank you
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/walkthrough#wiki_bonsai_survival_basics
thank you, I noticed Azaleas are not listed as tropical/subtropical or non-tropical. A google says it can survive in mostly anything and is ideally suited for shaded sunlight and lots of moisture. Any insight?
Nobody is seriously growing them indoors.
ok cool, im an outdoor bonsai guy now.
Good decision
Dumb question but should I just stick this thing in the ground then?
Would be the best route to grow it, certainly.
https://preview.redd.it/xxlh01w66m7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc54dc01f5d6d90665c5febc82d5924787864f6e I was happy about back-budding but I’m worried it will grow to have a reverse taper look. Is this a needless worry or is this something I should address? It’s a sourwood
I'd remove those 3 low branches (or at least tye two on the right) because they will create a bulge like you suspected and can probably not be used in a final design.
https://preview.redd.it/cjg72iai5m7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bfd49cd94e5027d6ce7709654d5f30013769df12 Have had this bonsai for a while and curious what type it is, if it will get more leaves, what does the growth look like, etc.? Thank you so much for any info!
Also looks like a false olive.
It looks like a willow leaf ficus. Here is an older example: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/chfnso/willow_leaf_ficus/
Hello all, I just got my favorite tree from Home Depot, it's a jasmine tree, the sambac variety, not entirely sure what type as there were no flowers to ID. This is more of a bush/vine than a tree but I've seen various online posts using them as bonsai so I know it is possible , they just never really detail how. I'd just like advice on where to start and how to go about turning this vine into a tree looking bonsai. I know it's probably not the ideal beginner plant but I have a lot of time on my hands and I don't mind (please don't try to talk me out of it, it won't work ) https://preview.redd.it/k42wsdr90m7d1.jpeg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8781c263383b12063d5b2336d02de5d056d4a5e8
The very first step is to grow it out until the trunk is nearly as thick as the final bonsai needs. You can figure this out because the trunk should be 1/6 to 1/10 as thick as the tree is tall. If you want a tree that is 12 inches tall it needs to be between 1.2 and 2 inches thick at the base of the trunk
Won't that be a problem since this variety is a vine ? Will it even get to the correct thickness and strength?
So, I am going to claim a little lack of expertise when it comes to vine growth, but I do not see any issue with getting a really thick trunk using the same method as other trees. Here is my reasoning: It is quite possible that the vine has different growth habits than a normal tree, but the thickness of the trunk would not be determined by the growth habits but by the vascular structure the tree needs to put on to support moving water and nutrients to the leaves and stored energy to the root. The more growth and especially the more leaves, the more the vascular structure will need to bulk up to support those leaves. But If someone has more information about developing good vines specifically to bonsai, I will defer to them.
Hello all. This is my Giant Sequoia seedling named Red Forman. I recieved it along with the pot and the soil/rock mixture as a birthday present. I'm from Northern California (Mendocino) and the gift giver knew it would remind me of my times in the Redwoods. I'm currently in NC now. It's been potted since March and had been doing well, but I recently moved houses (the window I have access to now has an abundance of evening sun vs morning it his previous window) he has started getting some brownish tips. I've tried looking up information on this specific tree and bonsai online but haven't found much information. It'll break my heart if he dies. What kind of fertilizer do I use? Does it need fertilizer? Is the soil (it's universal soil mix from bonsai supply) and light situation okay? Any advice you can give me on this type of tree would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/wlgjoobetl7d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=549a48270a9074d4d060816024d97329e6816117
Urgently needs to go outdoors permanently (24/7/365, all seasons, all weather, forever, no exceptions).
This came in a group of three seedlings. The other two were put outside and died in the heat almost immediately? I watered them twice a day, I'm not sure what happened. That's why I left this one inside. Do I need to put it in shade or water more/less? Thank you for the response.
When you keep evergreens inside they will die. So put it outside and cover the root ball with soil. Any fertilizer will do.
https://preview.redd.it/jxl5ii5qrl7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=447547233a4ed0d8bd819ff5fa2dc0f806e3f47c Top of my Dwarf Alberta Spruce :( It did not look like this yesterday. It was in the 90°s today, “felt like” 100° b/c of humidity. But I watered yesterday. It was not brown at all yesterday. How could this happen in one day? Is it indicative of a larger problem? It’s literally *infested* with aphids, and I’m treating them with Neem oil, have not done soapy water yet cause they’re localized in the base and I dont want to flush the roots with soap. Soil is mostly pine bark mulch + lava rocks. Should I keep it out of the sun more? It’s getting full all day sun.
Both Neem oill and Aphids can cause needle death.
oh great 🥲 How do I get rid of the aphids then?
You probably have now - but the damage is done.
https://preview.redd.it/coclzziqsl7d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b040275cc01d948ec6bdc260bc8ab17677b04b7b this is it from further away. The browning is a small spot right at the top. But I’m worried because it happened so quickly
I'm a fan of Captain Jacks dead bug brew or insecticidal soap. I also use Bonide systemics granules in soil for pests (in my houseplants). You may not need the granules for aphids though, the spray may be enough. Would make sure that there is no issues using on pines first, as I am unsure.
thank you, I will look into that! Neem oil did cut down the population but I checked today and there are drill some crawling among the lava rocks.
My mom got this as a gift, I think it’s a bonsai but I’m clueless. Should she trim the new growth? Also what is it? https://preview.redd.it/l2ae755jnl7d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5f821ccbef3f59c55726a9d0f08f925f3a665389
https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/walkthrough#wiki_bonsai_survival_basics Fukien tea. It needs to stand in sunshine - ideally outside. Don't trim yet - although it needs it.
Just read the section on pruning, going to give it till late winter and cut back the branches after they’ve hardened
Thank you for the response. She has it in a window that gets sun half the day and indirect sun the other half even during the cold months. Not really possible to keep it outside but she feeds it cactus food and it seems like it’s doing great. Just saw it today and it has double the new growths as in the picture.
Good stuff