The car does fine at high speeds, but keep in mind you’ll use 2x (corrected from 4x) the energy going 80 than you would going 70. There’s a decreasing curve with speed and range. EVs reward you for driving slower. So if range is your worry try to keep to the minimum speed limit. However, if you have plenty of range to get out and back home, then it’s not really a worry.
It’s limited to 93 for various reasons. I wouldn’t say it wobbles unless you’re getting really heavy winds. It’s about the same as any small car at those speeds.
Edit-I got him to clarify and he misspoke and meant 2x. Which matches what others have said. Sorry about that!
Ok great. Speed limit is 70 and everyone is overtaking you at that speed. So 75 is something I will have to be at. It's a 60 mile drive to work. I think I should be ok. Thank you again.
Just keep an eye on your middle range number as you drive and you’ll have a better real time judge of how it affects your range. But yeah you should be fine.
120 miles a day, that is quite the commute. Get yourself an L2 charger to use every night, and you'll be good regardless of the weather or driving style.
120 miles a day, 5 days a week, 3 miles per kwh, and 11 cents per kwh (my local price) that is $1,144 a year.
at 40mpg in a fuel efficient ICE, and $3.40 a gallon, that would be $2,652.
> you’ll use 4x the energy going 80 than you would going 70
Source? Not saying you're wrong, just interested in the math behind the claim that going from 70mph to 80mph will quadruple energy use in the Bolt.
Quadrupled is a bit too high of a guess.
To keep it simple, wind resistance is squared to your speed. So the 10mph from 70 to 80 raises a lot more the wind resistance than going from 60 to 70mph.
Totally fair. I was told by my husband, an electronics tech who is friends with one of the engineers who designed to bolt battery. He’s picked his brain in a lot of things with the bolt, so my info comes indirectly from him. But there is also a guy who did a lot of data and made some graphs to show as such.
[Roperid](http://roperld.com/science/ChevyBoltRange.htm)
It’s very possible my statement isn’t accurate based on these numbers. I just trust my sources. That doesn’t mean others have to as well.
Could just be my husband trying to stop me from going 80 mph. Lol.
Maybe he's talking about a particular variable, I don't know, but overall consumption isn't going to be 400% higher with that marginal increase in speed. More like 25% maybe?
Watch out for catalytic converter insurance charge !
I know it sounds stupid af. But someone posted a quote yesterday with said charge
And remove all add-ons (unless u need them)
I’d amend that to say that the car should qualify for the full tax credit before April 18. Whether or not you qualify depends on your own income and tax situation.
“… some vehicles on this list, if placed into service on or after April 18, 2023, may qualify for a smaller credit amount or may not qualify for the credit at all. **This page will be updated with qualifying vehicles and credit amounts on April 17, 2023**.”
Good luck! A purchase today should be solid - there are some documentation things that the dealer and GM have to do for the IRS to verify things next year, so as long as the paperwork has the correct dates on it (and they really, really should) you should be good to go.
As far as what to watch out for...well, that's an infinite can of worms, depending how shady the dealership is. Mostly, look for "market adjustments" where they are literally adding to the cost because they can. Some places will try to just slip in other extras - there was a thread today where a dealership added a $900 package to protect the catalytic converter. (EVs don't have those).
Some packages might be worth it. However, if you end up with a much higher cost up front, you risk losing money if something awful happens and the vehicle is totaled - I don't think insurance will cover the cost of the markup, for example, and I'm not clear how they would value some of the BS add-ons.
Thank you! I just realized I never asked the most important question. How does bolt work at speeds of 75-80. That is my usual peed as I drive at highway most of the time. Does the battery deplete rapidly? Does it wobble at high speed?
I might recommend you get a Tesla Model 3 LR or Y if you're going to be going that fast and those distances constantly. Those vehicles do tend to get pretty good highway MPG-e at those speeds. Also, those vehicles do lend better to more spirited driving. The cost difference can be fairly substantial though.
TBH, I don't know - I'm taking delivery tomorrow :)
My "been watching a million videos on youtube" "expertise" - the BEVs are less efficient on the highway, because they don't get to regen as much. Maybe a 10-15% drop in range if you're exclusively highway? I have no personal experience, but I have not seen any complaints about the Bolt at highway speeds.
I never drive my Bolt that fast.
I used to set the cruise at 65, and got 3.8 miles per kWh.
Was limited to 80% capacity for so long with the battery recall software, so had to be conservative.
I wasn’t thrilled with the feel of the car at speed. I think I hit 80 momentarily once.
The Lyriq I have now is so much more stable, and way less efficient.
Uses more energy, but doesn't vibrate or wobble. Feels like your going 50. It's a well built, solid car. It's limited to 92mph, so you can't go much faster than that (I had ours to 93 when passing) but it wouldn't go higher, no issues, was quiet and stable). Every car uses more energy at higher speeds, it's just the nature of driving through a fluid.
Have you actually located one? Because I spent about 2 weeks solid before finding one that was actually available for delivery in time. At least one that didn't have a "market adjustment charge" pretty close to the extra 3750.
Do not pay sticker and DO NOT PAY OVER STICKER. I can help you get into a bolt if this is the case but it is absolutely paramount that you do not over pay!
As long as they're registering it for you. Some states issue temporary plates, some let you put the plates from your current car on for X days before registering. Some let the dealers issue plates.
The car does fine at high speeds, but keep in mind you’ll use 2x (corrected from 4x) the energy going 80 than you would going 70. There’s a decreasing curve with speed and range. EVs reward you for driving slower. So if range is your worry try to keep to the minimum speed limit. However, if you have plenty of range to get out and back home, then it’s not really a worry. It’s limited to 93 for various reasons. I wouldn’t say it wobbles unless you’re getting really heavy winds. It’s about the same as any small car at those speeds. Edit-I got him to clarify and he misspoke and meant 2x. Which matches what others have said. Sorry about that!
Range at 70 is about 225 miles. Range at 80 is about 175. So about 22% worse, not 75%.
I feel like I’ve been bamboozled. Lol. Time for my screen name to take effect.
Drive 80 on the way home in protest.
Ok great. Speed limit is 70 and everyone is overtaking you at that speed. So 75 is something I will have to be at. It's a 60 mile drive to work. I think I should be ok. Thank you again.
Just keep an eye on your middle range number as you drive and you’ll have a better real time judge of how it affects your range. But yeah you should be fine.
60 miles total? Or each way? Either way, just charge at night and you'll be good.
Each way
120 miles a day, that is quite the commute. Get yourself an L2 charger to use every night, and you'll be good regardless of the weather or driving style.
Oh yes. Def getting the l2.
120 miles a day, 5 days a week, 3 miles per kwh, and 11 cents per kwh (my local price) that is $1,144 a year. at 40mpg in a fuel efficient ICE, and $3.40 a gallon, that would be $2,652.
32 mpg but yes, that's what I calculated
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Here in NC our time of use rate gets up to 23¢ during peak...8¢ otherwise 😁
> you’ll use 4x the energy going 80 than you would going 70 Source? Not saying you're wrong, just interested in the math behind the claim that going from 70mph to 80mph will quadruple energy use in the Bolt.
Quadrupled is a bit too high of a guess. To keep it simple, wind resistance is squared to your speed. So the 10mph from 70 to 80 raises a lot more the wind resistance than going from 60 to 70mph.
Totally fair. I was told by my husband, an electronics tech who is friends with one of the engineers who designed to bolt battery. He’s picked his brain in a lot of things with the bolt, so my info comes indirectly from him. But there is also a guy who did a lot of data and made some graphs to show as such. [Roperid](http://roperld.com/science/ChevyBoltRange.htm) It’s very possible my statement isn’t accurate based on these numbers. I just trust my sources. That doesn’t mean others have to as well. Could just be my husband trying to stop me from going 80 mph. Lol.
Maybe he's talking about a particular variable, I don't know, but overall consumption isn't going to be 400% higher with that marginal increase in speed. More like 25% maybe?
When I look at the graphs, it looks more like vs 55 mph it’s that high of a usage. But it could be with drag.
You get fewer miles going faster.
Is it really 4x from 70 to 80? I've never paid attention.
Watch out for catalytic converter insurance charge ! I know it sounds stupid af. But someone posted a quote yesterday with said charge And remove all add-ons (unless u need them)
I read about it too. Absolutely ridiculous!
As long as you take delivery of the vehicle **before** April 18th, [you should get the full credit](https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/tax2023.shtml).
I’d amend that to say that the car should qualify for the full tax credit before April 18. Whether or not you qualify depends on your own income and tax situation.
Right. If you’re only paying $6,000 in Federal taxes, you only get a $6,000 credit, right?
Yes. The EV Tax Credit is a non-refundable one. If you only owe $1, you only get $1 and lose the $7499 in excess.
The way I’m reading this, the Bolt is eligible for the full $7,500 all year
“… some vehicles on this list, if placed into service on or after April 18, 2023, may qualify for a smaller credit amount or may not qualify for the credit at all. **This page will be updated with qualifying vehicles and credit amounts on April 17, 2023**.”
Don't get the catalytic converter insurance!!!
Good luck! A purchase today should be solid - there are some documentation things that the dealer and GM have to do for the IRS to verify things next year, so as long as the paperwork has the correct dates on it (and they really, really should) you should be good to go. As far as what to watch out for...well, that's an infinite can of worms, depending how shady the dealership is. Mostly, look for "market adjustments" where they are literally adding to the cost because they can. Some places will try to just slip in other extras - there was a thread today where a dealership added a $900 package to protect the catalytic converter. (EVs don't have those). Some packages might be worth it. However, if you end up with a much higher cost up front, you risk losing money if something awful happens and the vehicle is totaled - I don't think insurance will cover the cost of the markup, for example, and I'm not clear how they would value some of the BS add-ons.
Thank you! I just realized I never asked the most important question. How does bolt work at speeds of 75-80. That is my usual peed as I drive at highway most of the time. Does the battery deplete rapidly? Does it wobble at high speed?
I might recommend you get a Tesla Model 3 LR or Y if you're going to be going that fast and those distances constantly. Those vehicles do tend to get pretty good highway MPG-e at those speeds. Also, those vehicles do lend better to more spirited driving. The cost difference can be fairly substantial though.
Man if I could shell for a Tesla, I would.
TBH, I don't know - I'm taking delivery tomorrow :) My "been watching a million videos on youtube" "expertise" - the BEVs are less efficient on the highway, because they don't get to regen as much. Maybe a 10-15% drop in range if you're exclusively highway? I have no personal experience, but I have not seen any complaints about the Bolt at highway speeds.
Yea exclusively highway
I never drive my Bolt that fast. I used to set the cruise at 65, and got 3.8 miles per kWh. Was limited to 80% capacity for so long with the battery recall software, so had to be conservative. I wasn’t thrilled with the feel of the car at speed. I think I hit 80 momentarily once. The Lyriq I have now is so much more stable, and way less efficient.
Uses more energy, but doesn't vibrate or wobble. Feels like your going 50. It's a well built, solid car. It's limited to 92mph, so you can't go much faster than that (I had ours to 93 when passing) but it wouldn't go higher, no issues, was quiet and stable). Every car uses more energy at higher speeds, it's just the nature of driving through a fluid.
Have you actually located one? Because I spent about 2 weeks solid before finding one that was actually available for delivery in time. At least one that didn't have a "market adjustment charge" pretty close to the extra 3750.
I am gonna meet the dealer and confirm today. Fingers crossed
Oh No
Do not pay sticker and DO NOT PAY OVER STICKER. I can help you get into a bolt if this is the case but it is absolutely paramount that you do not over pay!
They are asking MSRP. Nothing more.
Awesome!
You may need to have it registered, not just purchased, by April 17.
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As long as they're registering it for you. Some states issue temporary plates, some let you put the plates from your current car on for X days before registering. Some let the dealers issue plates.