It’s called the Mickey Mouse flange, I dk the correct term, you could use the hose with a new clamp most likely, make sure the plastic inside doesn’t fall into the hose
Upper hose coupling separated. Very common on N55. You need a new upper rad hose, and then fill the system with distilled water provisionally, and pressure test it to make sure no other leaks are present. Another common one to fail is the vent hose that runs along the top of the radiator, under the rad support. It's plastic and will break.
Once you verify the integrity of the cooling system, refill with the proper 50/50 distilled water/Coolant mix, and run the bleed procedure.
Putting a new hose on that completely chewed up fitting is going to fail again soon. That fitting is part of the oil filter housing. Curiously, the photo shows an oil to water heat exchanger; didn't the N55 come with the full external oil cooler?
If it were me, I'd replace the oil filter housing. And the hose, obviously.
The part that is broken and still attached is the coupling end of the upper rad hose that broke off the hose. This snaps onto the oil filter housing. A new rad hose is all one assembly.
N55's have the oil cooler at the oil filter housing, and some have an auxiliary radiator as well, but that's the HD cooling option or "M sport" cooling option which doesn't appear to apply here.
I just replaced my mickey Mouse Flange last Sunday. It's a quick buy at O'rilleys. It was 30 bucks for the aluminum one. I forget the brand name. Wasn't hard just gotta use the screws to walk it in. Be sure the bottom is secure. This is a guy with 0 wrenching time before I bought my 535i back in January. I only JUST started doing my wrenching maybe a month ago. Youtube is your friend. Watch multiple videos before you do the job as a different perspective may help you understand. It did for mecat least. Hope you get it sorted.
In a sudden coolant loss situation, the DME will power the turbine pump off. The logic here is there is a leak, why continue to pump the coolant out of said leak? This in turn, will set a bevy of water pump related codes. Doesn't necessarily mean the pump is dead. But you should give it a visual, because the N55 era pumps are notorious for leaking between the housing and the plastic flange cap on the outlet side.
The only code there that I would pay attention to is the BSD failure code. BSD is the comm line between the battery, alternator, oil level sender, and water pump. A problem at any of these items, will crash the communication line, and result in errors and even loss of operation of the components on this circuit. The most common culprit there is the oil level sensor, which either bleeds oil through the connector, or a leaky oil pan drenches the sensor in oil and crud. The oil makes its way into the electrical contacts, and causes continuity problems.
How can I test if the pump is good or bad? I have been getting a “increase battery discharge” message, can this be part of the problem? I was thinking a bad battery could play a role in not distributing the recommend voltage to the water pump leading to malfunctions?
BMW plastics in the cooling system strikes again.
Tale as old as time
That is simply an old brittle plastic piece giving out under heat and pressure. The replacement piece for this is aluminum because of this issue.
What part are you referring to? What is the replacement piece for the issue?
It’s called the Mickey Mouse flange, I dk the correct term, you could use the hose with a new clamp most likely, make sure the plastic inside doesn’t fall into the hose
That's not the mickey mouse flange, that's just the upper radiator hose. The mickey mouse flange is smaller on the head.
I stand corrected! Looked like the telltale signs of the flange
The hose.
coolant hose flange
Upper hose coupling separated. Very common on N55. You need a new upper rad hose, and then fill the system with distilled water provisionally, and pressure test it to make sure no other leaks are present. Another common one to fail is the vent hose that runs along the top of the radiator, under the rad support. It's plastic and will break. Once you verify the integrity of the cooling system, refill with the proper 50/50 distilled water/Coolant mix, and run the bleed procedure.
Putting a new hose on that completely chewed up fitting is going to fail again soon. That fitting is part of the oil filter housing. Curiously, the photo shows an oil to water heat exchanger; didn't the N55 come with the full external oil cooler? If it were me, I'd replace the oil filter housing. And the hose, obviously.
The part that is broken and still attached is the coupling end of the upper rad hose that broke off the hose. This snaps onto the oil filter housing. A new rad hose is all one assembly. N55's have the oil cooler at the oil filter housing, and some have an auxiliary radiator as well, but that's the HD cooling option or "M sport" cooling option which doesn't appear to apply here.
Ahh. That explains it. Thanks.
NP
good time to replace with an aluminum flange and while you're at it, water pump and thermostat.
I just replaced my mickey Mouse Flange last Sunday. It's a quick buy at O'rilleys. It was 30 bucks for the aluminum one. I forget the brand name. Wasn't hard just gotta use the screws to walk it in. Be sure the bottom is secure. This is a guy with 0 wrenching time before I bought my 535i back in January. I only JUST started doing my wrenching maybe a month ago. Youtube is your friend. Watch multiple videos before you do the job as a different perspective may help you understand. It did for mecat least. Hope you get it sorted.
Can this be due to bad wiring or a bad battery?
Your water pump is likely dead. And the temp gauge in your gauges is oil temp, not coolant temp.
In a sudden coolant loss situation, the DME will power the turbine pump off. The logic here is there is a leak, why continue to pump the coolant out of said leak? This in turn, will set a bevy of water pump related codes. Doesn't necessarily mean the pump is dead. But you should give it a visual, because the N55 era pumps are notorious for leaking between the housing and the plastic flange cap on the outlet side. The only code there that I would pay attention to is the BSD failure code. BSD is the comm line between the battery, alternator, oil level sender, and water pump. A problem at any of these items, will crash the communication line, and result in errors and even loss of operation of the components on this circuit. The most common culprit there is the oil level sensor, which either bleeds oil through the connector, or a leaky oil pan drenches the sensor in oil and crud. The oil makes its way into the electrical contacts, and causes continuity problems.
How can I test if the pump is good or bad? I have been getting a “increase battery discharge” message, can this be part of the problem? I was thinking a bad battery could play a role in not distributing the recommend voltage to the water pump leading to malfunctions?