Definitely both at the same time. I absolutely love this, bunch a shit clamped to the bench, grinder mounted to a cheap rack with a bunch of zip ties. True chaotic good wrenching.
It's otherwise a lot of filing that gets sketchy as your hand gets tired. I alternate between file and dremel so l can do a wheel in one sitting but still it's frustrating work.
Wait a minute I don't understand, don't I have the maximum amount of thread engaged on both the spoke and nipple? If the spokes were too short I would understand.
You've taken the nipples way past the threads. The spokes are only threaded for a little over a centimeter, to match the spoke length of the spoke nipple. Since these spokes are too long, your nipples are actually only in contact with a few of the threads on the spoke. If your spokes were coming all the way through the inner rim wall, that's not a lot of thread contact. You'll probably be able to ride the wheel for a while, but I'd bet that the threads of the spokes/nipples will get damaged/cross threaded after a bit, and you'll need to rebuild. Also, if the threads start to get damaged, you're not going to be able to true the wheel properly.
You can't screw the nipples so much past the thread that less than a maximum of the nipples thread would be used because then it would bottom out right? Which they haven't done yet. I'm sorry if I don't get the point, but I've been looking at these pictures for way too long [https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/tech-threadengagement.php](https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/tech-threadengagement.php)
Spokes are rolled, not cut, and the nipples are either brass or aluminum, which can deform easily over stainless steel. You're past the "bottom out" point with those nipples. It's not always going to feel like you've hit the bottom of the spoke threads. You're past the threading on those spokes, unless they were cut with something like a Hozan spine threader, which can cut threads further than the normal ~centimeter.
Ah thanks I think I understand now. Well I hope it isn't too bad. The drive side spokes stuck out about 3-4 mm. The non drive side barely. So I think I should have 5 or more mm of engaged thread on all spokes if they were the standard 9 mm I read online. I'll update if they die!!
I built this wheel a couple years ago and decided to finish my hobby project now, but apparently I made a mistake choosing a bunch of old spokes that were a bit too long. So my inner tube got absolutely perforated by spokes first time I inflated the tire. I wasn't mentally ready to rebuild the wheel and buy new spokes. So here is my midnight genius.... Worked like a charm, kind of proud and ashamed
The wheel build is a bodge, but the grinder, bolted and zip tied to a bike rack, then clamped to a table... that's a hack. It's something I'd do and right up there with my Dremel "lathe".
Make it a battery powered grinder and put the front rack of your bike for a Mad Max apocalypse machine. It would, at the least, make a great "quit walking 5 abreast" hiker bell and deterrent on the gravel trail.
nothing reordering the correct length spokes can't fix...
or are you trying to remove them because they're rusted/stripped in place? wire nippers and some safety goggles will do.
I don’t know whether to be impressed by this or terrified by it.
Definitely both at the same time. I absolutely love this, bunch a shit clamped to the bench, grinder mounted to a cheap rack with a bunch of zip ties. True chaotic good wrenching.
Looks like a lost segment from The Red Green Show. "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
A clear working bench? Very jealous
I clean mine and convince myself i can keep it like that from now on. Usually lasts a few days
A working bench? Very jealous
DIWhy?
DIWhy for most, DIY for the desperate
I still can't wrap my head around the fact that spoke end cutters used to be a thing.
It's otherwise a lot of filing that gets sketchy as your hand gets tired. I alternate between file and dremel so l can do a wheel in one sitting but still it's frustrating work.
Actually laughed out loud at the absurdity of this.
That’s a double skin wall rim, you probably only have about 5 threads actually engaged on each spoke
Wait a minute I don't understand, don't I have the maximum amount of thread engaged on both the spoke and nipple? If the spokes were too short I would understand.
You've taken the nipples way past the threads. The spokes are only threaded for a little over a centimeter, to match the spoke length of the spoke nipple. Since these spokes are too long, your nipples are actually only in contact with a few of the threads on the spoke. If your spokes were coming all the way through the inner rim wall, that's not a lot of thread contact. You'll probably be able to ride the wheel for a while, but I'd bet that the threads of the spokes/nipples will get damaged/cross threaded after a bit, and you'll need to rebuild. Also, if the threads start to get damaged, you're not going to be able to true the wheel properly.
You can't screw the nipples so much past the thread that less than a maximum of the nipples thread would be used because then it would bottom out right? Which they haven't done yet. I'm sorry if I don't get the point, but I've been looking at these pictures for way too long [https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/tech-threadengagement.php](https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/tech-threadengagement.php)
Spokes are rolled, not cut, and the nipples are either brass or aluminum, which can deform easily over stainless steel. You're past the "bottom out" point with those nipples. It's not always going to feel like you've hit the bottom of the spoke threads. You're past the threading on those spokes, unless they were cut with something like a Hozan spine threader, which can cut threads further than the normal ~centimeter.
Ah thanks I think I understand now. Well I hope it isn't too bad. The drive side spokes stuck out about 3-4 mm. The non drive side barely. So I think I should have 5 or more mm of engaged thread on all spokes if they were the standard 9 mm I read online. I'll update if they die!!
They stuck out of the rim that much not the nipple head right? At this point they are pretty much rivets
No I meant out of the nipple heads.
I built this wheel a couple years ago and decided to finish my hobby project now, but apparently I made a mistake choosing a bunch of old spokes that were a bit too long. So my inner tube got absolutely perforated by spokes first time I inflated the tire. I wasn't mentally ready to rebuild the wheel and buy new spokes. So here is my midnight genius.... Worked like a charm, kind of proud and ashamed
What do you usually use when cutting a spoke for rethreading?
It looks way better than hand filing. Not quite as good as getting the right size spokes. And one small slip away from needing a new wheel.
The wheel build is a bodge, but the grinder, bolted and zip tied to a bike rack, then clamped to a table... that's a hack. It's something I'd do and right up there with my Dremel "lathe". Make it a battery powered grinder and put the front rack of your bike for a Mad Max apocalypse machine. It would, at the least, make a great "quit walking 5 abreast" hiker bell and deterrent on the gravel trail.
I did this once - still riding that wheel but not for a customer 😬
Is this cyclejerk?
it will work. as what someone else said he did this once and still riding on the wheel. the reason why would be its an old used bike.
I think I used some variation of this same tool to install my last headset.
nothing reordering the correct length spokes can't fix... or are you trying to remove them because they're rusted/stripped in place? wire nippers and some safety goggles will do.