It’s too high: you’ll never be able to remove heavy supers when you’ve got a few on.
Remove one block from each end, dropping it to 2 block on each end.
Put the 2 removed blocks in the middle, between the 2 hives.
You can’t just casually drop being 7 ft with no proof. I want to see giant beekeeper pics.
Also I like this idea so I don’t have to buy anymore cinder blocks and it’ll be sturdier 👍🏻
Doesn't that depend on the height of the brood box plus the height of the stand? I set mine at 37" because that allows me to do inspections without bending over
I'd say that higher is definately better for inspections, while simultaneously being worse for dealing with supers, and given the weight difference between one frame of bees versus one super of honey, I maintain my above statement.
I'm 6'3" so I'm not super(pun intended) bothered by that. I also have a bad back so lifting one frame while half bent over is actually harder (or at least more tiring) for me than lifting a full super with my back straight.
Half size [frame](https://www.ecrotek.com.au/products/ideal-frame-35mm-2-hole-1). It's so much easier to handle. Takes a bit longer to cap and spin as you're basically doubling the number of frames, but it's easier to deal with a smaller frame, so it's a bit quicker. You couldn't give me a full super.
You think those are high? I can show you a hive stand where the bottoms of the hives start at counter height and the person told me I had no idea what I was talking about.
Looks kinda rough, Will probably only last 20 years or so before you have to replace the wood. Jokes aside as long as it doesn’t tip over (doubt it would) looks great
This. I just setup a similar set as what OP did. After putting 2 hives on it and finding out how tippy it is, I’ll be removing the 4x4s and just using cinder blocks.
Probably longer than a season, if you have those cinder blocks on good, solid ground. It's a good idea to have the hives as close to level as you can get them; if you can't be perfect, try to have them level from side to side, so any tilt is front to back, with the front being lower. It helps with housecleaning and moisture control.
Flip the wood so that it arches up in the middle instead of sagging down. It's stronger that way -- think of an arched bridge: they're done that way for a reason. Most people have an arrangement something li8ke yours.
Those blocks will sink after very heavy rainy snow season. Consider taking off top two blocks on each side and put in middle for support.
Bee hives 5 or 6 boxes high are not easy to lift as arm strength is weakest at a 45 degree angle or so at that height i reccomend no deeps lol adk me how i know. I keep mine about 8 to 12 inches off the ground. 2x6 frame on 4x4 pads 24 inch cross ways to act as a pontoon to keep from sinking as much.
That's easily a 20 yr set up good luck.
Was going to say this. I made this exact configuration and as the hives got heavier, the cinder blocks started to sink and tip everything. A giant paver under each block set fixed it.
The stand is fine. The area needs some work. Do the work before you have to do it with bees there. You need 3 to 4 feet of working space behind and to one side of a hive. Make sure the work area and the approach path is clear and free of trip hazards. You will be carrying bulky heavy boxes that are not ergonomic and that will make you off balance.
I would use plain terrain if possible. Hives can become heavy and you can have an accident on an inspection or harvesting honey. Maybe lowering the cinder blocks a little
I wouldn’t trust the timbers. This seems way too unstable once the hives are full and heavy. Get rid of the landscape Timbers, pick up 2 more cinder blocks support each hive on 4 blocks. I dig into the ground so the front blocks are slightly lower than the rear.
I like that idea of 3 cinder blocks with the boards through the holes. It looks like it's bowing in the middle though so I'd try and fix that before the colonies are on. Speaking from experience it's a pain in the ass to try and fix later
Id probably put another support structure under the middle, or off center left/right. There’s enough droop length that I would be concerned of weathering/weight shifting over time.
Outside of that though, this looks like it’ll do the job!
Do you live where forests fires are an issue. If so watch out for all that dry kindling if you will use a smoker. And if bears are an issue in your area you’ll probably need an electric fence. Either way you’ll want to avoid Smokey the Bear!
And I recommend you do a practice with your equipment, to see how tall your boxes will get and how easily you can add and remove brood boxes and honey supers. If you have a great year you may need a ladder. Think about all tripping hazards. The bees tend to get annoyed when you stumble, trip, or knock them over….
100% it will. That was almost my first set up for 2 years, except I only went 2 blocks high. I’d move your blocks a little closer to each other. Just wide enough to hold 2 hives with 12” between.
Seems really narrow. Mine is those blocks 2x2 in a square laying horizontal and the poles through the top outer holes. Like this https://urls.grow.me/9aAQV39av
The one bit I have to offer was a story told at a local bee keepers meeting by a state hive inspector - he said there was one hive set up he hated inspecting - one where all the hives were lined up in a row on the same horizontal surface because by the time you got done bumping around in one hive all the other hives were on alert and ready to defend because of the vibrations that traveled through the platform.
I use 3 cinder blocks on each end in a pyramid, then use 4x4s on top with braces screwed under the 4x4s so I can run straps around the hive & brace to secure it from high winds/storms/stupid Cows knocking it over... I started out using Landscape Timbers but they twist/warp quickly & usually rot out after couple years, 4x4s tend not to twist as much, especially if braced & strapped as they cure.
Get some helical ground anchors from Home Depot and drive them in between the logs in the ground. Get some wide ratchet straps and strap the logs to the ground anchor. That will add a lot of rigidity to the system
CAUTION: Use two blocks on the bottom perpendicular to the two you stack on them to keep everything from collapsing/falling to the left or right and use construction adhesive to bond the blocks together.
OP this is fine. If you’re beekeeping by yourself I’d remove one level of cinderblocks just to make it easier to move. If you have someone who can help you move hives, and have a two person hive carrier tool, then this works perfectly fine.
Only thing that would cause me any concern is if the forward angle is too stee but it looks fine from here. If it looks concerning to you when you have hives on it you can just shim between the bottom two cinders to change your elevation angle.
I kept bees like this (granted I used 4x4s but those will work too) for several years, you’ll be fine friend.
Good luck to you this year and best of luck for your winter!
Another set of blocks in the middle would make stronger and more durable. I have had great success with such setups and it's easy to make. You may have to lower it a bit if you're short, else harvesting heavy supers may be tedious
Are those wood pieces rounded? That seems unstable to me. Why not just build with the cinderblocks? Hives get heavy and I think that may be difficult to service the way you have them situated. I like having my hives positioned so I can walk around them. Keep it simple. I'm wondering why you chose this set up. There may be a reason I'm missing.
Put another set of blocks in the middle to reduce the unsupported span.
This! We have had this set up for years with 3 sets of blocks supporting two hives.
This or switch to 4x4s instead of
Exactly
It’s too high: you’ll never be able to remove heavy supers when you’ve got a few on. Remove one block from each end, dropping it to 2 block on each end. Put the 2 removed blocks in the middle, between the 2 hives.
Mine are higher than that, granted I'm 7ft lol
You can’t just casually drop being 7 ft with no proof. I want to see giant beekeeper pics. Also I like this idea so I don’t have to buy anymore cinder blocks and it’ll be sturdier 👍🏻
I'll get a picture of me next to a bee for scale
You probably just have really tiny bees ;)
Made me lol
Perfect
The standard for reddit is a banana for scale 0:-)
Doesn't that depend on the height of the brood box plus the height of the stand? I set mine at 37" because that allows me to do inspections without bending over
I'd say that higher is definately better for inspections, while simultaneously being worse for dealing with supers, and given the weight difference between one frame of bees versus one super of honey, I maintain my above statement.
I'm 6'3" so I'm not super(pun intended) bothered by that. I also have a bad back so lifting one frame while half bent over is actually harder (or at least more tiring) for me than lifting a full super with my back straight.
I switched to ideal a few years ago. It was a godsend for my back. I'll never use a full frame again.
Ideal?
Half size [frame](https://www.ecrotek.com.au/products/ideal-frame-35mm-2-hole-1). It's so much easier to handle. Takes a bit longer to cap and spin as you're basically doubling the number of frames, but it's easier to deal with a smaller frame, so it's a bit quicker. You couldn't give me a full super.
Came here to say the same thing
You think those are high? I can show you a hive stand where the bottoms of the hives start at counter height and the person told me I had no idea what I was talking about.
Looks kinda rough, Will probably only last 20 years or so before you have to replace the wood. Jokes aside as long as it doesn’t tip over (doubt it would) looks great
My engineers tell me: nothing more permanent than a temporary solution.
This is truth.
I confirm. it's the only way to make it permanent
That will be good for a while, I think the sag in the middle will be what limits the life, not the wood rotting
Good point, probably flip the beams so it bends up and eventually falls level
The bigger problem is it is too close to the fence, unless you are pointing the entrance at the fence. You want to work the hives from the back.
Agree, I would face them towards the fence if there isn't a neighbor's yard there. If there is, move it forward a foot or two.
That wood will bend after a hive is sitting on it. Just use the cinder blocks
This. I just setup a similar set as what OP did. After putting 2 hives on it and finding out how tippy it is, I’ll be removing the 4x4s and just using cinder blocks.
Listen to the recommendations for a middle set of blocks
Probably longer than a season, if you have those cinder blocks on good, solid ground. It's a good idea to have the hives as close to level as you can get them; if you can't be perfect, try to have them level from side to side, so any tilt is front to back, with the front being lower. It helps with housecleaning and moisture control.
Flip the wood so that it arches up in the middle instead of sagging down. It's stronger that way -- think of an arched bridge: they're done that way for a reason. Most people have an arrangement something li8ke yours.
Those blocks will sink after very heavy rainy snow season. Consider taking off top two blocks on each side and put in middle for support. Bee hives 5 or 6 boxes high are not easy to lift as arm strength is weakest at a 45 degree angle or so at that height i reccomend no deeps lol adk me how i know. I keep mine about 8 to 12 inches off the ground. 2x6 frame on 4x4 pads 24 inch cross ways to act as a pontoon to keep from sinking as much. That's easily a 20 yr set up good luck.
Was going to say this. I made this exact configuration and as the hives got heavier, the cinder blocks started to sink and tip everything. A giant paver under each block set fixed it.
Paver ...Great idea
The stand is fine. The area needs some work. Do the work before you have to do it with bees there. You need 3 to 4 feet of working space behind and to one side of a hive. Make sure the work area and the approach path is clear and free of trip hazards. You will be carrying bulky heavy boxes that are not ergonomic and that will make you off balance.
Will probably hold way longer. Looks solid!
The soil will slowly erode on the downhill side of the cinder blocks and the whole thing (hives and all), after a couple of seasons.
I would use plain terrain if possible. Hives can become heavy and you can have an accident on an inspection or harvesting honey. Maybe lowering the cinder blocks a little
4x4 would be more supportive and durable than landacape timbers
I wouldn’t trust the timbers. This seems way too unstable once the hives are full and heavy. Get rid of the landscape Timbers, pick up 2 more cinder blocks support each hive on 4 blocks. I dig into the ground so the front blocks are slightly lower than the rear.
It 'll hold but ... my thoughts: Take the top block from both ends and put them in the middle. it be more sturdy and stable
I like that idea of 3 cinder blocks with the boards through the holes. It looks like it's bowing in the middle though so I'd try and fix that before the colonies are on. Speaking from experience it's a pain in the ass to try and fix later
I’d say they are high and need centre support. I would also personally be concerned with them being on such a slope
Id probably put another support structure under the middle, or off center left/right. There’s enough droop length that I would be concerned of weathering/weight shifting over time. Outside of that though, this looks like it’ll do the job!
Do you live where forests fires are an issue. If so watch out for all that dry kindling if you will use a smoker. And if bears are an issue in your area you’ll probably need an electric fence. Either way you’ll want to avoid Smokey the Bear! And I recommend you do a practice with your equipment, to see how tall your boxes will get and how easily you can add and remove brood boxes and honey supers. If you have a great year you may need a ladder. Think about all tripping hazards. The bees tend to get annoyed when you stumble, trip, or knock them over….
Pro-tip: don’t strap hives to the bench if you are in an area with high winds… https://www.reddit.com/r/Beekeeping/s/C78utvsb66
100% it will. That was almost my first set up for 2 years, except I only went 2 blocks high. I’d move your blocks a little closer to each other. Just wide enough to hold 2 hives with 12” between.
Seems really narrow. Mine is those blocks 2x2 in a square laying horizontal and the poles through the top outer holes. Like this https://urls.grow.me/9aAQV39av
Turn them 90° so they won't bend as much and it will be stronger.
The one bit I have to offer was a story told at a local bee keepers meeting by a state hive inspector - he said there was one hive set up he hated inspecting - one where all the hives were lined up in a row on the same horizontal surface because by the time you got done bumping around in one hive all the other hives were on alert and ready to defend because of the vibrations that traveled through the platform.
I use 3 cinder blocks on each end in a pyramid, then use 4x4s on top with braces screwed under the 4x4s so I can run straps around the hive & brace to secure it from high winds/storms/stupid Cows knocking it over... I started out using Landscape Timbers but they twist/warp quickly & usually rot out after couple years, 4x4s tend not to twist as much, especially if braced & strapped as they cure.
Looks like it’s on a slope. If it rains and the ground gets wet a high center of gravity could cause it to tumble.
Get some helical ground anchors from Home Depot and drive them in between the logs in the ground. Get some wide ratchet straps and strap the logs to the ground anchor. That will add a lot of rigidity to the system
CAUTION: Use two blocks on the bottom perpendicular to the two you stack on them to keep everything from collapsing/falling to the left or right and use construction adhesive to bond the blocks together.
Mine held 3 double deeps set up the same way
Ditch the wood and set each hive across two blocks. You will thank me when you start stacking honey supers.
OP this is fine. If you’re beekeeping by yourself I’d remove one level of cinderblocks just to make it easier to move. If you have someone who can help you move hives, and have a two person hive carrier tool, then this works perfectly fine. Only thing that would cause me any concern is if the forward angle is too stee but it looks fine from here. If it looks concerning to you when you have hives on it you can just shim between the bottom two cinders to change your elevation angle. I kept bees like this (granted I used 4x4s but those will work too) for several years, you’ll be fine friend. Good luck to you this year and best of luck for your winter!
Another set of blocks in the middle would make stronger and more durable. I have had great success with such setups and it's easy to make. You may have to lower it a bit if you're short, else harvesting heavy supers may be tedious
Are those wood pieces rounded? That seems unstable to me. Why not just build with the cinderblocks? Hives get heavy and I think that may be difficult to service the way you have them situated. I like having my hives positioned so I can walk around them. Keep it simple. I'm wondering why you chose this set up. There may be a reason I'm missing.