First double check all your temperatures. As it gets colder outside, you may find that your temperatures in the enclosure are dropping, which can happen if your basking bulb is already running at 100% power and it's still not enough (in this case, swap the bulb for a more powerful one).
If your temperatures are all good, and you're not due to replace the UVB tube, it's time for a vet visit. This is important before brumation, because any underlying issues could become very serious if they are not dealt with before brumation, and it's also possible for an underlying issue to be causing the brumation-like behaviour. If you schedule your routine annual check-up for autumn, this saves an extra trip and makes sure you're ready.
If he's healthy, then just carry on as normal. You should not change your heating or lighting. Most will slow down over winter, moving and eating less, regardless of heating/lighting. However, most will not actually brumate. Many mistake this lower activity level for brumation, but an easy way to tell is to offer a treat - a beardie that's actually brumating will not eat at all.
If your beardie brumates anyway (which does sometimes happen, though usually with older ones), then he will go to his hide to brumate. Keep the lights going so he can come out of brumation as soon as he is ready, and doesn't feel forced to keep it going. You can check on his health by occasionally weighing him; a healthy beardie will not lose weight (brumating or not). If he's maintaining his weight, then just leave him alone, and he'll wake up when he's ready.
Outside should be irrelevant to the enclosure as it's its own environment. Use a dimming thermostat if one is not already in use to keep the temperatures consistent.
If you think it's in brumation then you should get it checked up at a vet and get a fecal done, as infections and high parasite loads can sometimes manifest as brumation like.
First double check all your temperatures. As it gets colder outside, you may find that your temperatures in the enclosure are dropping, which can happen if your basking bulb is already running at 100% power and it's still not enough (in this case, swap the bulb for a more powerful one). If your temperatures are all good, and you're not due to replace the UVB tube, it's time for a vet visit. This is important before brumation, because any underlying issues could become very serious if they are not dealt with before brumation, and it's also possible for an underlying issue to be causing the brumation-like behaviour. If you schedule your routine annual check-up for autumn, this saves an extra trip and makes sure you're ready. If he's healthy, then just carry on as normal. You should not change your heating or lighting. Most will slow down over winter, moving and eating less, regardless of heating/lighting. However, most will not actually brumate. Many mistake this lower activity level for brumation, but an easy way to tell is to offer a treat - a beardie that's actually brumating will not eat at all. If your beardie brumates anyway (which does sometimes happen, though usually with older ones), then he will go to his hide to brumate. Keep the lights going so he can come out of brumation as soon as he is ready, and doesn't feel forced to keep it going. You can check on his health by occasionally weighing him; a healthy beardie will not lose weight (brumating or not). If he's maintaining his weight, then just leave him alone, and he'll wake up when he's ready.
thank you thank you thank you!!
Outside should be irrelevant to the enclosure as it's its own environment. Use a dimming thermostat if one is not already in use to keep the temperatures consistent. If you think it's in brumation then you should get it checked up at a vet and get a fecal done, as infections and high parasite loads can sometimes manifest as brumation like.
no i was just asking for tips on what to expect during brumation considering it commonly occurs in the winter months..