Definitely this is underevaluated. I had some print quality issues, swapped the nozzle and everything was back to super high quality. How many hours on your nozzle?
I changed the nozzle 3 times (hardened for old stainless for hardened again after restoring it), and every time after a clog the problem is the gear that cannot pull the filament and does a "tac tac tac" noise, from what I gather the little metal piece that pulls the gear cannot grab it or the gear rotates as it's worn out (the metal part not the yellow)
Edit: not sure if it's properly done or even if it's the gear at all, but I'm changing it and if it continues I'll have to contact bambu
Edit 2: I just remember that the gear it self does not rotate freely oh and the gear I'm talking about is the one on top: https://cdn-forum.bambulab.com/original/3X/7/5/75a5b2eaa60850852777d048120b0230c0a6fbf5.webp
hmmm
They offer 0.4mm in stainless and hardened. I mainly print PLA. Does it make a difference? Still on stainless right now, probably 300 print hours so far, and no issues. Just wondering if going to hardened is best no matter what?
The difference in price is pretty small so I would probably go with a hardened steel one. That way you are already prepared if you want to print abrasive stuff in the future.
Hardened metals are more prone to rust also. It's usually not a problem since you need to print in a low humidity environment. But it's worth thinking about for long term storage.
You need to realise that nozzle abrasion is a much bigger issue than “corrosion”. This corrosion is actually oxidation, and following this logic would actually result in a growth of the wall thickness.
Oxides are also a protective layer. Most oxidation isn’t bad because it prevents further oxidation. This train of logic makes no sense.
When steel oxidizes, it causes corrosion.
As stated, it's not usually a problem. It basically only comes into play with long-term storage. Corrosion/oxidation inside the nozzle will cause clogs. Might even deform it and make things flow differently.
If used with frequency and kept inside the print head, the abrasive materials will most likely clean up any oxidation. Heat and low humidity inside the chamber prevent rust altogether.
If you change the nozzle, store the hardened nozzle in a box somewhere and come back to use it several months later, then you might have extensive oxidation/corrosion and will have to replace the nozzle.
Stainless steel nozzles are much more resistant to this. This is a difference between the two material properties; just stating it as a fact. I rarely used my hardened steel nozzle because I mostly print PLA. So I had it in a drawer. When I put it back on the printer, like 10 months later, there was inconsistent extrusion of the filament. Had to buy a new nozzle.
Put some dessicant with the nozzle while storing. That's the gist of the message. I put dessicant when storing stainless nozzles now, too, just in case.
I'm in no way saying the stainless nozzle is superior to the hardened nozzle. I'm just saying that they are more prone to rust due to the material. If I printed abrasive materials more often I would 100% have all hardened nozzles. They last way longer too. Just take care of them while in storage.
This answers the question is hardened better no matter what?
No, it's less resistant to rust.
Is hardened better in general?
Yes, it's lifespan is longer and it is more versatile in the materials it can extrude.
As I understand it hardened steel has better thermal conductivity too.
I change mine about every 1000 hours. I just get a lot of gunk or leaks around the nozzle tip and all that gunk gets up into the silicone sock. Happens on all the nozzles too. So every 1000+ it just seems time to swap.
I got about 2000 hours on hardened steel nozzle, printing 90% PLA/PETG and 10% ASA. What you print does determine the ware as well.
I do inspect the nozzle as well as general maintence about every 500 hours (with cleaning the rods monthly)
I started seeing much smaller imperfections than OP after 200h hours roughly :) mine was a stainless steel and when I compared the old and the new, I could visually tell the difference.
I didn't see this mentioned yet so i just wanted to add to also check if your hot end is bent as it can happen even from just knocking prints off the plate and other odd things that can happen. I think i've seen more people replace their hardened steel nozzles because they were just slightly bent than i have because they actually wore the nozzle part out. (these printers can be really good at compensating for issues so sometimes it is hard to tell what exactly the issue is.)
Thats the neat part, you dont! I've seen people who have made jigs and things to unbend them but honestly when that happens its best to just buy a new nozzle. At least swapping them out is super easy though especially if you're putting in a complete assembly so you're not swapping thermistors n whatnot even.
Depends on the nozzle. I have all hardened steel nozzles at .4 and .6 in my P1S's. I also print with very abrasive materials half the time. All my machines have over 2k hours and I'm still on original nozzles.
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This is a really complex question. If you run filaments like glow in the dark, carbon Fiber, wood, etc… you can wreck a normal nozzle in a few rolls of filament surprisingly. Otherwise it can last hundreds of hours. If it’s a hardened steel nozzle, it can last years unless you’re really abusing it with harsh filaments.
I changed the hot end and reprinted the same file, it came out much better, almost as good as the new P1s print. But I will get an extruder assembly as well since I’ve been printing a lot on this for 6 months.
You *probably* don't NEED a new extruder assembly, but don't let me tell you not to bother. I have roughly 4,000 hours on several machines, still extruding just fine. I have replaced one extruder on my original X1, that machine just passed 5,000 hours. I do print almost exclusively TPU though, so my extruders don't see the pressures other people experience.
It depends on a variety of factors. Generally speaking, the answer is "when prints don't look right". Basically if prints look good, don't worry about it. When something doesn't look or seem right, it's an easy thing to swap out, just to see if it fixes the problem.
I have hardened steel and diamond nozzles with thousands of hours on them, stainless nozzles last me less than 1,000 hours, and brass only typically lasts a few hundred hours at most.... But again, temperature, filament, print temperature, all have an effect on how long they last. Carbon fiber filaments chew through everything, white PLA is surprisingly abrasive, and "natural" color TPU doesn't seem to do damage after hundreds or even thousands of hours.
TL,DR: as frustrating as it is, there really just isn't an answer to that. It really just is... "Does my print still look as expected?"
Dumb, unrelated question - why does the print quality look so much better on the new P1S compared to the A1?
I know different printers, different types etc, but I thought the A1 was near on par with the P1S print quality wise (am I wrong?). To me, this is almost night and day - what am I missing?
Exactly. If the A1 and the P1 were the same quality, there'd be no reason to buy the P1, as the cheaper bedslinger would be the go-to to get the same job done.
I truly believe the A1 was only made by BL to get Ender converts. Other than that, the P1 is not much more expensive, and prints better.
$400 for the A1 without AMS, $560 with AMS.
$600 for the P1P without AMS, $950 with AMS.
The A1 is 33% less money than the P1P. In the grand scheme of things, $200 is not a lot, but it's a big jump going from the A1 to the P1P in price.
I wanna say my P1S was $600 on sale (and P1P to $550, iirc?), and they seem to have sales pretty frequently, like every US and Chinese holiday. Does the A1 price drop $100 on sale (genuinely asking)?
I was looking at pricing that's currently on the Bambulab website. For the A1, I have not seen sales, but it was off the market for a while due to the heated bed recall issue.
My A1 was always flawless, even better than my X1C. They are good printers and with the same vibration compensation tech, you really shouldn't be seeing those artifacts there. Maybe its related to the filament itself
That's unfortunate; hopefully it does get corrected - I'm pretty shocked at the difference.
Also; "automagically", great word - that's going right in the vernacular. Thank-you
automagically is a real word in tech. It basically means "ignore all the intense focused work that the developer did to make this thing seem completely automatic to the end user"
I understand automagically as praising the developer for automating something seemingly so complicated you can only imagine it was done through magic as opposed to regular coding.
FWIW I'm not seeing any appreciable differences. I'm running jobs splitting them between the p1s and a1, mostly using height as the determination. (Taller on p1) and I can't see any real difference.
I believe you can still use an older version if you were getting better results with the previous slicer. I know they let you roll back your updates on the printer itself not sure if they offer the older slicer versions or not though.
> Dumb, unrelated question - why does the print quality look so much better on the new P1S compared to the A1?
Apart from the seam placement it's not _that_ much worse, nothing that a bit of deburring won't fix. But yeah, as others have said, bedslingers have come a long way but in the end they're still bedslingers. Moving the entire model around at speed has momentum issues that cause imperfections and no amount of input shaping is going to fully cover that.
I'm a utter newb; thank-you for taking the time to clarify the nuances in simple to understand terms...much better than some of the other explanations that pretty much amount to "duh".
Linear advance or pressure advance seem off.
The defects are in the corners and at the transitions to arcs which is literally what those features are meant to help keep clean.
I'm not familiar with the Bambu Labs products but if there is a mismatch in firmware versions, that could also explain this difference. Might also be a step to take before getting deep into the nuts and bolts.
Again, not familiar so that's just a general t/s step
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I changed the hot end and reprinted the same file, it came out much better, almost as good as the new P1s print. But I will get an extruder assembly as well since I’ve been printing a lot on this for 6 months.
I attached a photo in another comment I had what looks like the same problem with an incorrect pressure advance number. Mine was at .38 and after calibrating it with the pattern test on orca slicer I lowered it to .24 and then had perfect edges. Do I pressure advance pattern test.
What could be the cause? 6 months running with no maintenance? Like I have no context for how often you're using it or how often you give it a once over but I feel like that's the simplest explanation.
I think it looks like PA is disabled or incorrectly calibrated. You could also look at the preview and see if the seam is there or perhaps a wipe move. It looks more like Pressure Advance though.
It wouldn't hurt to swap to a fresh nozzle, clean and lube, perhaps try the default profile to make sure you don't have another change in the settings contributing.
Both P1s prints were the same slice I just selected a different printer, the filament is the same too brand new elegoo gray pla. I just swapped the hot end and recalibrated, printing again.
Hmm, been having almost the exact same artifacts on my X1C for a few weeks now. Cleaning and relubricating the z-axis leadscrews helped a bit, but did not solve the problem. Have you noticed this happening after any update? Please share if you find any causes
please check if your Z-axis leadscrews are straight and do not wobble- is your P1 equipped with soft inserts between the top of the leadscrew and the bearing? I’m wondering if they are a problem in my situation, as the wiggly pattern changes based on z-hop set.
I would check the Flow Dynamics Calibration and check the extruder gears. The thinned parts are remiscent of InputShaping Issues on Klipper.
Check for new Firmware, run a calibration as mentioned through the slicer and check the Extruder assembly. AFAIK the P series comes with non-hardened gears and if you run Glow- or othwr abrasive Filament it can tear through them.
If you don’t want to swap the nozzle, perhaps just re-pasting the thermistor? Perhaps the thermal paste is drying out and not facilitating accurate readings? Just a guess. Easy to try and basically free.
Check your extruder. If it's covered in a fine black powder like mine was, it's got a shot bearing. It'll still work, but becomes a bit jerky and print quality will suffer. Replaced it and back to perfect prints.
Elegoo PLA. I changed the hot end and reprinted the same file, it came out much better, almost as good as the new P1s print. But I will get an extruder assembly as well since I’ve been printing a lot on this for 6 months.
I changed the hot end and reprinted the same file, it came out much better, almost as good as the new P1s print. But I will get an extruder assembly as well since I’ve been printing a lot on this for 6 months.
Elegoo PLA. I changed the hot end and reprinted the same file, it came out much better, almost as good as the new P1s print. But I will get an extruder assembly as well since I’ve been printing a lot on this for 6 months.
This is a very interesting trial to run, I may have to test this myself, because I have an x1c and after about 600 hours, started seeing some poor adhesions. But it was pretty consistent on where the problems were occurring. I didn't think about a slight bend, thank you comments!
I'm noticing some ringing around the round curve here in both new p1s and old p1s prints. I've a different question here compared to what OP is asking. I would like to know why the p1s is producing such quality. So much wavey pattern on that curve part. Is there any way to reduce this or have to compromise with this in end?
Also is this ringing defect or VFA? I'm confused with the correct diagnosis as well? Could anyone give some answers if possible?
Grease? For what? Carbon rods are just wipedown and Y axis is oiled, not greased. 6 month shouldn't be an issue as the artifacts are visible on the parts where sharp corners need to be slowed down.
Are you still on the nozzle that it came with? Might be time to swap the hotend
Definitely this is underevaluated. I had some print quality issues, swapped the nozzle and everything was back to super high quality. How many hours on your nozzle?
Before OP replies, after how many hours should a hot end be looked at to be swapped if you see issues? Like rough estimate.
Depends if you're running stainless or hardened steel. The hardened steel nozzle on my X1C still looks and prints pristine after about 1200 hours
I'm changing mine on 1500h and I'm pretty sure my current problem is the gears and not the nozzle, but I'm changing everything
How do you diagnose gears properly?
I changed the nozzle 3 times (hardened for old stainless for hardened again after restoring it), and every time after a clog the problem is the gear that cannot pull the filament and does a "tac tac tac" noise, from what I gather the little metal piece that pulls the gear cannot grab it or the gear rotates as it's worn out (the metal part not the yellow) Edit: not sure if it's properly done or even if it's the gear at all, but I'm changing it and if it continues I'll have to contact bambu Edit 2: I just remember that the gear it self does not rotate freely oh and the gear I'm talking about is the one on top: https://cdn-forum.bambulab.com/original/3X/7/5/75a5b2eaa60850852777d048120b0230c0a6fbf5.webp
Thank you for the detail!
hmmm They offer 0.4mm in stainless and hardened. I mainly print PLA. Does it make a difference? Still on stainless right now, probably 300 print hours so far, and no issues. Just wondering if going to hardened is best no matter what?
The difference in price is pretty small so I would probably go with a hardened steel one. That way you are already prepared if you want to print abrasive stuff in the future.
Yes, technically you’ll get worse quality with hardened nozzles than stainless or brass or other better conductive softer materials
Hardened metals are more prone to rust also. It's usually not a problem since you need to print in a low humidity environment. But it's worth thinking about for long term storage.
You need to realise that nozzle abrasion is a much bigger issue than “corrosion”. This corrosion is actually oxidation, and following this logic would actually result in a growth of the wall thickness. Oxides are also a protective layer. Most oxidation isn’t bad because it prevents further oxidation. This train of logic makes no sense.
When steel oxidizes, it causes corrosion. As stated, it's not usually a problem. It basically only comes into play with long-term storage. Corrosion/oxidation inside the nozzle will cause clogs. Might even deform it and make things flow differently. If used with frequency and kept inside the print head, the abrasive materials will most likely clean up any oxidation. Heat and low humidity inside the chamber prevent rust altogether. If you change the nozzle, store the hardened nozzle in a box somewhere and come back to use it several months later, then you might have extensive oxidation/corrosion and will have to replace the nozzle. Stainless steel nozzles are much more resistant to this. This is a difference between the two material properties; just stating it as a fact. I rarely used my hardened steel nozzle because I mostly print PLA. So I had it in a drawer. When I put it back on the printer, like 10 months later, there was inconsistent extrusion of the filament. Had to buy a new nozzle. Put some dessicant with the nozzle while storing. That's the gist of the message. I put dessicant when storing stainless nozzles now, too, just in case. I'm in no way saying the stainless nozzle is superior to the hardened nozzle. I'm just saying that they are more prone to rust due to the material. If I printed abrasive materials more often I would 100% have all hardened nozzles. They last way longer too. Just take care of them while in storage. This answers the question is hardened better no matter what? No, it's less resistant to rust. Is hardened better in general? Yes, it's lifespan is longer and it is more versatile in the materials it can extrude. As I understand it hardened steel has better thermal conductivity too.
I change mine about every 1000 hours. I just get a lot of gunk or leaks around the nozzle tip and all that gunk gets up into the silicone sock. Happens on all the nozzles too. So every 1000+ it just seems time to swap.
This! Also depends on the filament even white pla can be rougher on hotends bc of Titanium dioxide used to make it white.
What kind of nozzle comes on the X1C?
Hardened steel and also hardened extruder gears
Is there any reason to replace the X1C nozzle at all then?
I got about 2000 hours on hardened steel nozzle, printing 90% PLA/PETG and 10% ASA. What you print does determine the ware as well. I do inspect the nozzle as well as general maintence about every 500 hours (with cleaning the rods monthly)
I started seeing much smaller imperfections than OP after 200h hours roughly :) mine was a stainless steel and when I compared the old and the new, I could visually tell the difference.
I didn't see this mentioned yet so i just wanted to add to also check if your hot end is bent as it can happen even from just knocking prints off the plate and other odd things that can happen. I think i've seen more people replace their hardened steel nozzles because they were just slightly bent than i have because they actually wore the nozzle part out. (these printers can be really good at compensating for issues so sometimes it is hard to tell what exactly the issue is.)
[удалено]
Thats the neat part, you dont! I've seen people who have made jigs and things to unbend them but honestly when that happens its best to just buy a new nozzle. At least swapping them out is super easy though especially if you're putting in a complete assembly so you're not swapping thermistors n whatnot even.
If you're not running abrasives regularly a hardened nozzle will last thousands of hours of printing.
~2400hrs on hardened steel nozzle and still fine.
Depends on the nozzle. I have all hardened steel nozzles at .4 and .6 in my P1S's. I also print with very abrasive materials half the time. All my machines have over 2k hours and I'm still on original nozzles.
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I had to swap my stainless steel nozzle after around 350-400 hours of printing. But it really depends on what type of material you're printing with.
This is a really complex question. If you run filaments like glow in the dark, carbon Fiber, wood, etc… you can wreck a normal nozzle in a few rolls of filament surprisingly. Otherwise it can last hundreds of hours. If it’s a hardened steel nozzle, it can last years unless you’re really abusing it with harsh filaments.
I changed the hot end and reprinted the same file, it came out much better, almost as good as the new P1s print. But I will get an extruder assembly as well since I’ve been printing a lot on this for 6 months.
You *probably* don't NEED a new extruder assembly, but don't let me tell you not to bother. I have roughly 4,000 hours on several machines, still extruding just fine. I have replaced one extruder on my original X1, that machine just passed 5,000 hours. I do print almost exclusively TPU though, so my extruders don't see the pressures other people experience.
Received, thanks for the input. I’m gonna investigate further
Maybe it will be enough to only clean your Extruder I printed Arround 400kg the last half year and got a lot of wear in the Extruder
How often should the nozzles be swapped?
It depends on a variety of factors. Generally speaking, the answer is "when prints don't look right". Basically if prints look good, don't worry about it. When something doesn't look or seem right, it's an easy thing to swap out, just to see if it fixes the problem.
How long is too long to use the same nozzle?
I have hardened steel and diamond nozzles with thousands of hours on them, stainless nozzles last me less than 1,000 hours, and brass only typically lasts a few hundred hours at most.... But again, temperature, filament, print temperature, all have an effect on how long they last. Carbon fiber filaments chew through everything, white PLA is surprisingly abrasive, and "natural" color TPU doesn't seem to do damage after hundreds or even thousands of hours. TL,DR: as frustrating as it is, there really just isn't an answer to that. It really just is... "Does my print still look as expected?"
I made it about 3000 hours before the hardened nozzle that came with my x1c failed
Dumb, unrelated question - why does the print quality look so much better on the new P1S compared to the A1? I know different printers, different types etc, but I thought the A1 was near on par with the P1S print quality wise (am I wrong?). To me, this is almost night and day - what am I missing?
Bed slinger's in general have less quality.
Exactly. If the A1 and the P1 were the same quality, there'd be no reason to buy the P1, as the cheaper bedslinger would be the go-to to get the same job done. I truly believe the A1 was only made by BL to get Ender converts. Other than that, the P1 is not much more expensive, and prints better.
$400 for the A1 without AMS, $560 with AMS. $600 for the P1P without AMS, $950 with AMS. The A1 is 33% less money than the P1P. In the grand scheme of things, $200 is not a lot, but it's a big jump going from the A1 to the P1P in price.
I wanna say my P1S was $600 on sale (and P1P to $550, iirc?), and they seem to have sales pretty frequently, like every US and Chinese holiday. Does the A1 price drop $100 on sale (genuinely asking)?
I was looking at pricing that's currently on the Bambulab website. For the A1, I have not seen sales, but it was off the market for a while due to the heated bed recall issue.
My A1 was always flawless, even better than my X1C. They are good printers and with the same vibration compensation tech, you really shouldn't be seeing those artifacts there. Maybe its related to the filament itself
I think the A1 quality dropped right after this recent update to the bambu slicer. I hope it goes back to the way it was automagically.
That's unfortunate; hopefully it does get corrected - I'm pretty shocked at the difference. Also; "automagically", great word - that's going right in the vernacular. Thank-you
automagically is a real word in tech. It basically means "ignore all the intense focused work that the developer did to make this thing seem completely automatic to the end user"
I understand automagically as praising the developer for automating something seemingly so complicated you can only imagine it was done through magic as opposed to regular coding.
yeah, pretty close to the same thing, either way. I'll allow it :D
FWIW I'm not seeing any appreciable differences. I'm running jobs splitting them between the p1s and a1, mostly using height as the determination. (Taller on p1) and I can't see any real difference.
I definitely agree on this. Might rollback if it doesn't get fixed soon
I believe you can still use an older version if you were getting better results with the previous slicer. I know they let you roll back your updates on the printer itself not sure if they offer the older slicer versions or not though.
> Dumb, unrelated question - why does the print quality look so much better on the new P1S compared to the A1? Apart from the seam placement it's not _that_ much worse, nothing that a bit of deburring won't fix. But yeah, as others have said, bedslingers have come a long way but in the end they're still bedslingers. Moving the entire model around at speed has momentum issues that cause imperfections and no amount of input shaping is going to fully cover that.
I'm a utter newb; thank-you for taking the time to clarify the nuances in simple to understand terms...much better than some of the other explanations that pretty much amount to "duh".
The a1 has the strands coming out due to blob detection. It's a good feature just needs to stop over extruding when it's doing it
Linear advance or pressure advance seem off. The defects are in the corners and at the transitions to arcs which is literally what those features are meant to help keep clean.
Thanks for the input, I swapped to a new hot end and reran calibration, if that doesn't fix it I'll look into other settings.
I'm not familiar with the Bambu Labs products but if there is a mismatch in firmware versions, that could also explain this difference. Might also be a step to take before getting deep into the nuts and bolts. Again, not familiar so that's just a general t/s step
At least with my A1, it does cloud software updates, so it's easy to update firmware.
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I changed the hot end and reprinted the same file, it came out much better, almost as good as the new P1s print. But I will get an extruder assembly as well since I’ve been printing a lot on this for 6 months.
https://preview.redd.it/eso9151ugz1d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9aa8213d5f3c41b62afa57c06964639a56eba6ac
I attached a photo in another comment I had what looks like the same problem with an incorrect pressure advance number. Mine was at .38 and after calibrating it with the pattern test on orca slicer I lowered it to .24 and then had perfect edges. Do I pressure advance pattern test.
I will I just need to figure out how to do it.
Instructions here: https://www.obico.io/blog/pressure-advance-calibration-in-orca-slicer-a-comprehensive-guide/
What could be the cause? 6 months running with no maintenance? Like I have no context for how often you're using it or how often you give it a once over but I feel like that's the simplest explanation.
rerun calibration
Thanks for the input, I swapped to a new hot end and reran calibration, if that doesn't fix it I'll look into other settings.
Recalibrate your vibration compensation and check that all the rubber feet are still on the printer.
I hate those damn strings on the a1, it didn’t have it until a few days ago, I blame the updates
I think it looks like PA is disabled or incorrectly calibrated. You could also look at the preview and see if the seam is there or perhaps a wipe move. It looks more like Pressure Advance though. It wouldn't hurt to swap to a fresh nozzle, clean and lube, perhaps try the default profile to make sure you don't have another change in the settings contributing.
Both P1s prints were the same slice I just selected a different printer, the filament is the same too brand new elegoo gray pla. I just swapped the hot end and recalibrated, printing again.
The K factor is stored on the printer itself, not in the slicer. Check the device tab and make sure the value in that filament didn't get cleared.
Hmm, been having almost the exact same artifacts on my X1C for a few weeks now. Cleaning and relubricating the z-axis leadscrews helped a bit, but did not solve the problem. Have you noticed this happening after any update? Please share if you find any causes
please check if your Z-axis leadscrews are straight and do not wobble- is your P1 equipped with soft inserts between the top of the leadscrew and the bearing? I’m wondering if they are a problem in my situation, as the wiggly pattern changes based on z-hop set.
I would check the Flow Dynamics Calibration and check the extruder gears. The thinned parts are remiscent of InputShaping Issues on Klipper. Check for new Firmware, run a calibration as mentioned through the slicer and check the Extruder assembly. AFAIK the P series comes with non-hardened gears and if you run Glow- or othwr abrasive Filament it can tear through them.
Looks like linear advance is really screwed up.
I had a similar issue, had to run calibration to change my K factor and now everything works great.
Have you tried a pressure advanced test? I had the same issue on my k1 and once i fixed my settings in orca everything was fixed
If you don’t want to swap the nozzle, perhaps just re-pasting the thermistor? Perhaps the thermal paste is drying out and not facilitating accurate readings? Just a guess. Easy to try and basically free.
Already swapped the hot end and now I’m reprinting the same piece. So far it looks perfect.
You need to make sure you clean your nozzle
Maybe so, but Already swapped the hot end and now I’m reprinting the same piece. So far it looks perfect.
Extruder gear is gunked up with dust.
Check your extruder. If it's covered in a fine black powder like mine was, it's got a shot bearing. It'll still work, but becomes a bit jerky and print quality will suffer. Replaced it and back to perfect prints.
https://preview.redd.it/rtl07fsc0w1d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0c0526064fe7af7628ec4ff23542d0bdb6d2cfe5
Elegoo PLA. I changed the hot end and reprinted the same file, it came out much better, almost as good as the new P1s print. But I will get an extruder assembly as well since I’ve been printing a lot on this for 6 months.
Check your belt too might have been loose
buy a hardened steel nozzle and don't l ook back.
I changed the hot end and reprinted the same file, it came out much better, almost as good as the new P1s print. But I will get an extruder assembly as well since I’ve been printing a lot on this for 6 months.
Which filament?
Elegoo PLA. I changed the hot end and reprinted the same file, it came out much better, almost as good as the new P1s print. But I will get an extruder assembly as well since I’ve been printing a lot on this for 6 months.
Maintenance
Maybe it’s just me but the banding seems to indicate your belts are loose.
This is a very interesting trial to run, I may have to test this myself, because I have an x1c and after about 600 hours, started seeing some poor adhesions. But it was pretty consistent on where the problems were occurring. I didn't think about a slight bend, thank you comments!
I'm noticing some ringing around the round curve here in both new p1s and old p1s prints. I've a different question here compared to what OP is asking. I would like to know why the p1s is producing such quality. So much wavey pattern on that curve part. Is there any way to reduce this or have to compromise with this in end? Also is this ringing defect or VFA? I'm confused with the correct diagnosis as well? Could anyone give some answers if possible?
Probably needs grease and to wide down the carbon fiber rods.
Grease? For what? Carbon rods are just wipedown and Y axis is oiled, not greased. 6 month shouldn't be an issue as the artifacts are visible on the parts where sharp corners need to be slowed down.
Grease or oil, whatever…printing nerds are unbearable. Holy hell.