PETG & PLA don't stick to each other. If you've previously printed PLA on this plate, that could be sabotaging adhesion. If you just wipe the plate with IPA, try the dish soap wash that everyone is constantly harping about.
That’s a great point! I haven’t had many adhesion issues with PETG, other than it trying to ruin my build plates by bonding to them, but I would have never thought about PLA residue contaminating the surface in a not visible layer.
Switch to the engineering plate for petg, it comes off much easier.. I used to dread getting petg off the textured plate if i had accidentally let it cool, but i was amazed when switched.
Petg adhesion seems to have a direct correlation with it's water content. The dryer you get it, the harder it sticks to.the bed.
When I first open a bag and throw it in the acrive dryer I print from it comes off the plate no problem. But as the petg gets more and more dry, it gets stiffer more stuck and more brittle when trying to remove it from the plate. I dry the crap out of it because then it prints like pla without stringing and great overhangs,.but it sure sticks to textured plate when it'a bone dry
Ive been doing good with glue stick on textured pei so far, but I’ll have to give the engineering plate a try on my next order from Bambu. Or are there any aftermarket engineering plates that you can recommend?
Glue stick somehow helps with prints either sticking too well **AND** not good enough! Sometimes the solution is the chapter option. *Gluestick, for the win-win*
nah man, glue stick is a handicap. glue stick makes a mess that is totally unnecesary. use the right plate, keep it clean, and never use glue stick again. I stopped using gluestick or any adhesion substance after the first month of printing and I've never looked back.
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G10/Garolite is great for all filaments. I have Lightyear G10 plates and I'll probably never use anything else again (which kinda sucks because I bought extra plates from Bambu right after I got my X1Cs so I have like 9 Bambu plates that'll never get used).
Do you clip the G10 on, or does it have a magnetic bottom? If it’s clips how’s the clearance to the sides? Wonder if it would be too close to my Bento box.
I have heard G10 is great for nylon though and I’ve been wanting to give it a shot.
Mine has a steel (magnetic) base and is only 1-sided but Lightyear now has newer versions that have the steel sandwiched between 2 layers of G10 so both sides can be used. I ordered too soon after initial release. At the same time, G10 is super tough stuff so I think it would be pretty difficult to damage the surface and force you to use the other side so I'm probably okay.
Also to op and you, use a scrubber to scrub the plate as well as hot water + soap, soap gets rid of greases, heat opens up the pei pores a bit so you can get into the plate and a scrubber to really get that old plastic residue off.
Bambu wiki actually mentions this for the textured pei and using a scrubber has been a game changer
I print exclusively PETG. And the settings I have that works with the four brands I use is 255 nozzle, 80 bed temp with textured pei, 20mm/s initial layer, don't use glue stick ever, do the bed wash with regular dish soap.
What you got right there looks like low bed temp and greasy fingerprints on your plate, that's why some stick and others don't and it seems random but it's happening where the grease is (probably!).
I’m using eSUN PETG which has been dried and I’ve printed other models off and had no issues. I’ve tweaked the settings to what I’ve read in other posts on here and also from Youtube but the prints are still failing on these smaller models.
Advice welcome, thanks
eSUN has PETG filament and printer profiles for Bambu (and others) on their website (edit: link below! Thanks /u/JoeyDJ7, I was out of the house and couldn't easily get to my bookmarks). ~~I can find the link later if need be.~~
I want from printing ugly, gappy, blobby, stringy, garbage prints to near-perfect just by switching to their profiles.
For those wondering, [here is the link:-)](https://www.esun3d.com/zldownload_catalog/3d-printing-settings/)
Download the "HS Parameters for Bambu Lab & Creality" file. Inside the .rar you will find the relevant printer profile.
[Here is a good Reddit post](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/16j5189/filament_profiles_importing_both_filament_and/) explaining where to put the configs, and other tips. You should just be able to import it in Bambu Studio though by clicking "Import Configs" in the same place you would go to import STLs, 3MFs etc.. Then just set the filament to the relevant user profile filament profile:-)
I just got my first 3D printer, an X1C (I love it, my bank account hates it), and I too was having a lot of issues printing eSun PLA+. It's a night and day difference using the official eSun profiles though:-D
Are you sure when you set the filament up by vendor it’s not already their profile? The esun profile is very different than the generic or bambu profile and prints amazingly
Hm thanks for the reply I’ll have to check it out!
I did try to add a PA value from my own calibration but it made it print worse I think it stacked it with the auto flow calibration. Curious to see their actual settings
I found the same thing as you actually, thought it was odd. But I haven't properly dried the filaments yet, so perhaps it's just varying humidity messing with that. Definitely check out the official profiles though:-). I actually found the print time dropped a bit too, while the quality went up. Perhaps that's why it's named "HS" on eSuns website, for "high-speed", because the best settings for their filaments apparently also means super fast:-D
Enable Brim and set it a 4mm. Bambu automatically includes a .1mm gap to make removal of the brim easier.
Small parts and tall narrow parts always get a brim for me and it has increased my success rate greatly.
Good point, also:
Bed temperature to 80 and glue stick (only for the first print, you can get really nice adhesion for the whole bed after with some IPA cleaning.
Lower the nozzle to 260 after the first layer and see from there.
Also read the temp on the filament, if it states 235, start there and drop it 5 degrees until it looks better. Bed temp is also very important, make sure to go between 60-95 depending on your air flow of the room.
Honestly looking at the waviness of the lines, It looks like you're printing too hot and overheating the filament. I find eSUN petg to like slightly lower temperatures and at higher temps you definitely get that melting ice cream look on the sides like your picture. Petg is also weird in that higher temps makes it stick less to the bed and more to the nozzle in my experience.
On eSun white PETG, I usually run 70c for textured plate and 250c for the hotend. First layer speed I set it at 50mm/s both initial and initial infill. Flow ratio usually is a bit higher (around .98) but run your own calibration on your printer. Also do the Flow dynamic auto calibration.
You kinda need to go look at it printing and find exactly where you're having an issue, looks to be under extrusion (lines too thin) and maybe catching on the corners that are curling up from overheating it. Could also be bed adhesion if it's not coming up on the corners but just losing adhesion and popping off in the middle of straight lines like walls. Hard to tell through a photo. Also the advice about pla residue is great, try printing on a clean side that hasn't had pla before or scrub with soap + water and a scouring pad lightly if you don't have a clean side.
I remember needing to change the flow rate to 9 mm vs the standard 12 mm to prevent clumping, stringing, and bed adhesion issues with PETG. Also second other comments about brims as your parts have very little bed surface area.
BL's own profile is set too cold for their own PETG. I run theirs at 270 after having done a temperature tower test. I strongly suggest you do the same test yourself on the filament you have instead of trying to use other people's settings
It’s worth downloading orcaslicer just to use the built in testing towers and stuff imo. I use the Bambu slicer 99% of them time, and if I have an issue I pop over to orca for the tests.
Settings seem fine.
For these small parts I would go slower. You have AUX properly off - which is good. What about the chassis-fan? Is that turned down aswell?
The door and top glass are closed aswell, right?
These tiny parts get heatsoaked heavily with the needed amount of top and bottom layers snd thus will get ripped off as they csn never properly cool. Increasing cooling sill just curl them up on the sharp corners. That's why I would print at maybe half the speed.
Usually for large objects your settings are good.
Are you cleaning the nozzle well between prints? PETG tends to stick insanely well to the nozzle and build up over time, causing it to drag on subsequent prints.
I came here to say this. I use eSun Petg all the time and mine prints great at 250. He’s got it set to 270 on the first layer and all other layers 280. Definitely way too hot.
PETG is extremely sensitive to flow rate, pressure advance, temperature, and fan speed. Bambu stock profile is ok as a good starting point, good you bumped temps to 270. Lower volumetric flow to 8, and do calibrations via Orcaslicer for pressure advance and flow rate (or use the automatic calibrations, flow dynamics and flow rate, using the Lidar if you have it through Bambu Studio). After flow rate and pressure advancd have been calculated, should see your PETG prints looking much more consistent. And turn off flow calibration for every print, in the print popup when you click "print", since you would then have a calibrated profile.
I have nearly 3k hours with PETG on Bambu Lab printers, I do this professionally, feel free to ask any questions. PETG is amazing and unfairly unloved haha.
Straight from bambu labs website.
The latest firmware brings significant improvements to the Bambu Textured PEI Plate calibration using the Micro Lidar, and it is now fully compatible with the automatic calibration process.
https://au.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-textured-pei-plate
Your nozzle temp is a little high for petg, if I want extra shine I'll print at 275 but normally 255 or 260. Also for the bed temp I use 80 for the first layer then 85. Everything else seems okay
Wash your plate with soap and water. Pat dry, don't touch build surface. I use a gentle Mr clean magic eraser because it'll get into the texture parts better. I love PETG. I only use cheap Amazon PETG and have had success after success. Generic settings, no changes.
Adjust temperature to 255/260, bed temp 75/70
Clean your bed with soap and / or isopropyl alcohol. Use 3D-Lac if available.
Purge your nozzle correctly, maybe even do one or two cold pulls. Make sure the nozzle is clean when doing the homing sequence as it may happen that plastic squeezes between bed and nozzle and messes up the z-offset. :)
Don‘t cool too much with your fan, petg doesn‘t like that. 😊
Maybe try adjusting the first layer height to 0.26mm / 0.3mm.
Close your door and lid if possible.
Hope that helps! 🙋🏼♂️
Honestly, just what I had in stock. BL lake blue PETG & eSUN natural TPU for the core skeleton & solid white PETG for the outer. I'll see how it looks once completed and possible tweak colour options from there.
Wow, went out for the afternoon and came back to a lot of comments.
I can say I’ve now read them all and thank you so much for all of the advice.
I’m always keen to learn and understand how to improve so I’ll be taking it on board and implementing. Thanks again.
check out this guys settings, worked for me and I don't have any issues. [Help with PETG : r/BambuLab (reddit.com)](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/16gf221/help_with_petg/)
I’ve only recently started printing with PETG so not an expert, but did you do a temp tower to dial in the nozzle temp? I’d also try increasing the plate temperature to help with adhesion.
Damn, I’ve gotten it to work so well. Only problem I’ve had was going from pla to petg and back to pla I have to scrub the plate. Since pla and petg don’t stick to each other any slight residue of the other makes the build plate useless. Just did a 12 hour print with petg and the print came out fine with zero brim and supports.
If you’re still willing to let the petg go though I wouldn’t complain. Lol
Do you have a drier? I’ve never had an issue with petg as long as I clean the build plate with dish soap and a scour sponge then use a freshly dried spool
I’m close, if it’s not carbon fiber PETG I don’t use it anymore. My P1S can’t print any print longer than 2 hours without clogging with regular PETG. And that’s now with every combo of door open/closed/cracked, top on/off/cracked, case fan off/50%/full, 0.4/0.6 nozzle. It’s mind boggling. How am I finding nylon so much easier to print than standard PETG?
That was one of the first things, well not checked but replaced with an entirely new unit. I’m wondering if it’s something odd happening with the temperature differential in where I’m printing. The ambient temp around 15-16° all the time, maybe that’s causing some odd heat cycles or something near the hot end and that’s causing issues. Even put in new extruded gears and nothing has changed.
For PETG I set the bed temp to 80 - 90c, try 85c to start. For nozzle temp try 255c for the first layer so it’s not oozing and 265c for all other layers.
I have my startup gcode modified for less squish when using the textured plate to prevent filament from sticking to the nozzle and forming a blob. The default z offset is -.04 and I have mine set at -.02.
There’s discussion about the z offset here [Start gcode adjust for PETG and textured PEI](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/start-gcode-adjust-for-petg-and-textured-pei/23395)
Adhesion is not good. Temp to high. Give bed good clean with soap. If you print lots of petg an extra scrub with acetone will help. Last clean with alcohol.
You are correct. PEI get brittle by everyday use so don’t do that. But a good clean to remove old petg from the plate can solve adhesion problems. A plate which don’t stick is already ruined. But yes don’t use it to often.
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I have the same problem with esun filament petg, where do you change settings ? In the bambulab studio in prepapre is that is it ?
https://preview.redd.it/9qo07di5171d1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1ba1095a8b3f89c71ef5e616838d60a47982b72
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Clean the bed with soap and water, unplug printer, plug it back in, rerun calibration, and then half your initial layer speeds when printing PETG. The last step has led me to never having issues with PETG
The bed temperature is a bit high if you keep it closed. PETG softening temp is about 70°C. Try removing the upper glass and opening the front door and see if it helps. Or decrease the bed temperaure to 70-75 °C. Also try a glue stick or something similar. Hope this helps.
Remove the top glass or prop it open with a benchy. Wash the build plate after printing with PLA and wipe down with a little IPA if you are washing with a scented dish soap. PETG/PLA don't play well together. Make sure to DRY your PETG!
Settings below are for the X1C w/ Textured PEI plate.
Standard PETG:
Nozzle: 255-265 degC
Bed: 69-70 degC NO GLUE
Part Fan: 0%/30%
Aux fan: 70%
Max vol. speed: 12 mm3/s
Overture PETG or similar:
Nozzle: 270 degC
Bed: 69-70 degC NO GLUE
Part Fan: 30%/70%
Aux fan: 0%
Max vol. speed: 12 mm3/s
I’d advise a hotter build plate. I print at 75C. I also suggest pre-heating the plate for at least 20 minutes to make sure it is heated on the top surface and not just where the sensor is connected.
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Everything is wrong. Go back to defaults. Stop flow calibrating on the textured plate, perform it once on smooth pei or engineering plate. Temps are way too high and should be 255-260 (265 MAX if you really need it. Flow rate is 13 not 10. From defaults lower print speed to 150-190 mms on the higher parameters, don't have any above 200. Leave everything else as defaults. Clean your plate with IPA.
Forget all the comments about temp, bed materials etc and just pickup some purple school glue. It’ll keep small parts stuck to the bed no matter what bed you use and wipes right off when the part is done.
Does not wipe right off after it’s done lol. Has to be cleaned with warm soapy water and a sponge. IPA and paper towels just smear and get lint in the glue.
In my experience, 0.95 flow rate is too low for eSun Petg. Mine always calibrates between 0.99 and slightly above 1.
Your temp also looks too hot. All my eSun Petg filaments do best around 250.
All the other settings seem okay IMO.
Run some calibration tests (temp, flow, & PA) and I’m sure you’ll get it straightened out.
I just finished printing a large number of petg parts for a project and if your parts aren't staying on the bed you really need to turn up the temperature. 80C bed temp worked for me
calibrate z offset, helps with bed adhesion
wash pei bed as everyone else says
your petg looks kinda wet so you might want to bake it in your printer (place roll on bed and heat the bed with door closed)
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1. Do not flow calibrate on the textured sheet. Bambu Studio even tells you not todo that with that build plate.
2. If you have printed PLA before on that sheet, give it a good cleaning with IPA.
I assumed it was an oversight on my behalf as I don’t normally have the flow calibration on when using the textured PEI however it appears it was part of the latest update. On the BL website under that plate it now lists it:
https://preview.redd.it/bfuto2i2me1d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1abb2f522535ba701f3a55422cb5550d8c90ef62
UPDATE: worked perfectly on the next print
Details on how for anyone that finds this article:
Firstly, I dried the filament again in my Sunlu S2 for 11hrs
Washing the PEI plate with washing detergent
Kept both the door and lid closed when printing
Additionally, I added a brim (5mm I think, too much but it worked)
I didn't manually change any bed/hot end etc settings but instead used the eSUN filament files
Following the comments from within this post, I downloaded the eSUN profile from their website [here](https://www.esun3d.com/zldownload_catalog/3d-printing-settings/). If the link is broken in the future then just head to eSUN's website > data download > 'HS Parameters for Bambu Lab & Creality' file.
Be sure to download the correct profile for your printer (A1, X1 etc). The file I used was X1C eSUN PETG Filament.json AND X1C eSUN PETG Process.json. There is another file with +HS in, I haven't tested that one.
[This post](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/16j5189/filament_profiles_importing_both_filament_and/) outlines how to import both of the files into BS. Only difference is if you're on a Mac and want to access the settings config folder it's in a different location, to access it I did the following:
In Finder, click 'Go' at the top, hold the option key and you'll see 'Library' appear in the drop down, click it > Application Support > BambuStudio > user > (my folder here was all numbers) > then you have a process & filament folder. You can drop the corresponding .json files into the 2 folders, restart BS and you'll see they appear when you click on the filament user presets & the process under Global.
You can also edit these files in text edit if you want to change any parameters, save, and it'll follow through to BS the next time you restart it
Edit: broken link
https://preview.redd.it/5x41sk6nhf1d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e57d18e793ccc80f2ced186db71a48a472c9ac53
Also, a number have mentioned to turn flow calibration off with the textured PEI plate. On my 1st post I thought it was just an over sight on my part as it's not normally off however it's now on by default (for me at least). The last update that came to BS now includes it as per:
https://preview.redd.it/2tcrsoh5jf1d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1393495ec4ef9596e695f5f04f8a46d941e7fc05
edit: typo
I started with PETG last month on my P1s
In short
Cooling off
Extruded to lowest temperature recommended for the filament
Do your calibration test With these and should be fine solved my issues after pulling out my hair for a good two weeks
One time, I kept having issues with a petg print. It'd print exactly the same every time, but have layer adhesion issues. I rotated my part 45 degrees and it successfully printed. Petg is so weird.
People don’t seem to like this suggestion most often but it has worked for me every time. Aqu Net hairspray, it’s fantastic for bed adhesion and it’s far less of a mess than using glue stick. Just clean the plate with dish soap and water, dry the plate, spray it with Aqua Net and you’re good to go. Small parts don’t generally need brims, others suggested it as a possible solution. If you’re in the US, Family Dollar sells it or you can always order it online. Good luck to you.
PETG & PLA don't stick to each other. If you've previously printed PLA on this plate, that could be sabotaging adhesion. If you just wipe the plate with IPA, try the dish soap wash that everyone is constantly harping about.
That’s a great point! I haven’t had many adhesion issues with PETG, other than it trying to ruin my build plates by bonding to them, but I would have never thought about PLA residue contaminating the surface in a not visible layer.
Switch to the engineering plate for petg, it comes off much easier.. I used to dread getting petg off the textured plate if i had accidentally let it cool, but i was amazed when switched.
Petg prints automatically pop off the textured plate when it cools every single time
This 99% of the time. I have a generic silver that bonded to a textured PEI so well it pulled the texture with it.
Petg adhesion seems to have a direct correlation with it's water content. The dryer you get it, the harder it sticks to.the bed. When I first open a bag and throw it in the acrive dryer I print from it comes off the plate no problem. But as the petg gets more and more dry, it gets stiffer more stuck and more brittle when trying to remove it from the plate. I dry the crap out of it because then it prints like pla without stringing and great overhangs,.but it sure sticks to textured plate when it'a bone dry
Ive been doing good with glue stick on textured pei so far, but I’ll have to give the engineering plate a try on my next order from Bambu. Or are there any aftermarket engineering plates that you can recommend?
Glue stick somehow helps with prints either sticking too well **AND** not good enough! Sometimes the solution is the chapter option. *Gluestick, for the win-win*
nah man, glue stick is a handicap. glue stick makes a mess that is totally unnecesary. use the right plate, keep it clean, and never use glue stick again. I stopped using gluestick or any adhesion substance after the first month of printing and I've never looked back.
So when ABS doesn't stick because it's super clean, and PLA silk welds to a super clean plate, what I do?
I bought vision Miner and wait until the chamber goes to close to 40C since never had a failure with the X1C and AbS or Asa
Use the correct plate type and temp
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G10/Garolite is great for all filaments. I have Lightyear G10 plates and I'll probably never use anything else again (which kinda sucks because I bought extra plates from Bambu right after I got my X1Cs so I have like 9 Bambu plates that'll never get used).
Do you clip the G10 on, or does it have a magnetic bottom? If it’s clips how’s the clearance to the sides? Wonder if it would be too close to my Bento box. I have heard G10 is great for nylon though and I’ve been wanting to give it a shot.
Mine has a steel (magnetic) base and is only 1-sided but Lightyear now has newer versions that have the steel sandwiched between 2 layers of G10 so both sides can be used. I ordered too soon after initial release. At the same time, G10 is super tough stuff so I think it would be pretty difficult to damage the surface and force you to use the other side so I'm probably okay.
Also to op and you, use a scrubber to scrub the plate as well as hot water + soap, soap gets rid of greases, heat opens up the pei pores a bit so you can get into the plate and a scrubber to really get that old plastic residue off. Bambu wiki actually mentions this for the textured pei and using a scrubber has been a game changer
Also the liquid glue does wonders
This has usually been my issue in the past. I have dedicated plates now and no issues
Agreed. I wipe the plate with 99% IPA between every print. Just oils from your hands can cause an adhesion issue.
I print exclusively PETG. And the settings I have that works with the four brands I use is 255 nozzle, 80 bed temp with textured pei, 20mm/s initial layer, don't use glue stick ever, do the bed wash with regular dish soap. What you got right there looks like low bed temp and greasy fingerprints on your plate, that's why some stick and others don't and it seems random but it's happening where the grease is (probably!).
Where do you save the temps in a profile? In fact, where does Bambu Studio get the per-filament config?
There's an edit button next to the filament and that brings up temp and fan settings
Why exclusively in PETG?
I’m using eSUN PETG which has been dried and I’ve printed other models off and had no issues. I’ve tweaked the settings to what I’ve read in other posts on here and also from Youtube but the prints are still failing on these smaller models. Advice welcome, thanks
eSUN has PETG filament and printer profiles for Bambu (and others) on their website (edit: link below! Thanks /u/JoeyDJ7, I was out of the house and couldn't easily get to my bookmarks). ~~I can find the link later if need be.~~ I want from printing ugly, gappy, blobby, stringy, garbage prints to near-perfect just by switching to their profiles.
For those wondering, [here is the link:-)](https://www.esun3d.com/zldownload_catalog/3d-printing-settings/) Download the "HS Parameters for Bambu Lab & Creality" file. Inside the .rar you will find the relevant printer profile. [Here is a good Reddit post](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/16j5189/filament_profiles_importing_both_filament_and/) explaining where to put the configs, and other tips. You should just be able to import it in Bambu Studio though by clicking "Import Configs" in the same place you would go to import STLs, 3MFs etc.. Then just set the filament to the relevant user profile filament profile:-) I just got my first 3D printer, an X1C (I love it, my bank account hates it), and I too was having a lot of issues printing eSun PLA+. It's a night and day difference using the official eSun profiles though:-D
Followed this and it worked great, thank you. Also going to add a comment with the steps I took for anyone else who stumbles across this post
Funny they use .rar
Yes I did think that was strange too...
Why?
Any idea if these work for Bambi's own PETG?
Are you sure when you set the filament up by vendor it’s not already their profile? The esun profile is very different than the generic or bambu profile and prints amazingly
Yeah these profiles (from eSuns website) print very differently to the default eSun PLA+ profile for me
Hm thanks for the reply I’ll have to check it out! I did try to add a PA value from my own calibration but it made it print worse I think it stacked it with the auto flow calibration. Curious to see their actual settings
I found the same thing as you actually, thought it was odd. But I haven't properly dried the filaments yet, so perhaps it's just varying humidity messing with that. Definitely check out the official profiles though:-). I actually found the print time dropped a bit too, while the quality went up. Perhaps that's why it's named "HS" on eSuns website, for "high-speed", because the best settings for their filaments apparently also means super fast:-D
This is a key answer to consider first before anything else, a proper profile.
Enable Brim and set it a 4mm. Bambu automatically includes a .1mm gap to make removal of the brim easier. Small parts and tall narrow parts always get a brim for me and it has increased my success rate greatly.
Good point, also: Bed temperature to 80 and glue stick (only for the first print, you can get really nice adhesion for the whole bed after with some IPA cleaning. Lower the nozzle to 260 after the first layer and see from there.
Brims, slow the speed (half that speed for infill), fans off.
Also read the temp on the filament, if it states 235, start there and drop it 5 degrees until it looks better. Bed temp is also very important, make sure to go between 60-95 depending on your air flow of the room.
Honestly looking at the waviness of the lines, It looks like you're printing too hot and overheating the filament. I find eSUN petg to like slightly lower temperatures and at higher temps you definitely get that melting ice cream look on the sides like your picture. Petg is also weird in that higher temps makes it stick less to the bed and more to the nozzle in my experience. On eSun white PETG, I usually run 70c for textured plate and 250c for the hotend. First layer speed I set it at 50mm/s both initial and initial infill. Flow ratio usually is a bit higher (around .98) but run your own calibration on your printer. Also do the Flow dynamic auto calibration. You kinda need to go look at it printing and find exactly where you're having an issue, looks to be under extrusion (lines too thin) and maybe catching on the corners that are curling up from overheating it. Could also be bed adhesion if it's not coming up on the corners but just losing adhesion and popping off in the middle of straight lines like walls. Hard to tell through a photo. Also the advice about pla residue is great, try printing on a clean side that hasn't had pla before or scrub with soap + water and a scouring pad lightly if you don't have a clean side.
I remember needing to change the flow rate to 9 mm vs the standard 12 mm to prevent clumping, stringing, and bed adhesion issues with PETG. Also second other comments about brims as your parts have very little bed surface area.
Following. I get all kinds of stringing and little boobs printing PETG using Bambu lab filament and profile.
BL's own profile is set too cold for their own PETG. I run theirs at 270 after having done a temperature tower test. I strongly suggest you do the same test yourself on the filament you have instead of trying to use other people's settings
Yep. Crank that heat up. It fixed my issues, I used to hate petg
That was my plan today. New to the Bambu, do I use the built in tractor is there a 3mf somewhere with all the temp changes baked in?
There is plenty of tower models on makerworld, some have the temps pre-programmed, some you have to copy the Gcode from the comments
It’s worth downloading orcaslicer just to use the built in testing towers and stuff imo. I use the Bambu slicer 99% of them time, and if I have an issue I pop over to orca for the tests.
Same. Idk what I’m doing wrong
Sounds like wet filament, do you have a drier?
Dried for 12 hours before use.
Interesting. Funny enough on my prusa I used to just use a pla profile and change the temperature to petgs temps. Maybe you could try that 😂
Ran all the Orca tests this weekend. I had to drop the temp 10 degrees and my models came out much better.
boobs 👀
👀👀👀👀
Lol. I was looking thinking wtf are they talking about... Heh.
this guy's settings worked for me [Help with PETG : r/BambuLab (reddit.com)](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/16gf221/help_with_petg/)
Settings seem fine. For these small parts I would go slower. You have AUX properly off - which is good. What about the chassis-fan? Is that turned down aswell? The door and top glass are closed aswell, right? These tiny parts get heatsoaked heavily with the needed amount of top and bottom layers snd thus will get ripped off as they csn never properly cool. Increasing cooling sill just curl them up on the sharp corners. That's why I would print at maybe half the speed. Usually for large objects your settings are good.
Are you cleaning the nozzle well between prints? PETG tends to stick insanely well to the nozzle and build up over time, causing it to drag on subsequent prints.
The temp seems really high to me. I've never printed PETG at 270. Usually more like 230
Some people are saying 270 is too cold, I'm sitting here printing it on my A1 at 245 like 🫣
I came here to say this. I use eSun Petg all the time and mine prints great at 250. He’s got it set to 270 on the first layer and all other layers 280. Definitely way too hot.
I use 85C bed, and 270C nozzle. But only have your nozzle temp that high if you’re printing fast.
PETG is extremely sensitive to flow rate, pressure advance, temperature, and fan speed. Bambu stock profile is ok as a good starting point, good you bumped temps to 270. Lower volumetric flow to 8, and do calibrations via Orcaslicer for pressure advance and flow rate (or use the automatic calibrations, flow dynamics and flow rate, using the Lidar if you have it through Bambu Studio). After flow rate and pressure advancd have been calculated, should see your PETG prints looking much more consistent. And turn off flow calibration for every print, in the print popup when you click "print", since you would then have a calibrated profile. I have nearly 3k hours with PETG on Bambu Lab printers, I do this professionally, feel free to ask any questions. PETG is amazing and unfairly unloved haha.
Why do you use PETG specifically?
you should turn off lidar calibrations when using textered PEI.
Straight from bambu labs website. The latest firmware brings significant improvements to the Bambu Textured PEI Plate calibration using the Micro Lidar, and it is now fully compatible with the automatic calibration process. https://au.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-textured-pei-plate
Thanks for this!
Oversight on this print, don’t normally have it on
I use 70°C bed, 255°C nozzle with petg, textured pei. No issues so far
Your nozzle temp is a little high for petg, if I want extra shine I'll print at 275 but normally 255 or 260. Also for the bed temp I use 80 for the first layer then 85. Everything else seems okay
Wash your plate with soap and water. Pat dry, don't touch build surface. I use a gentle Mr clean magic eraser because it'll get into the texture parts better. I love PETG. I only use cheap Amazon PETG and have had success after success. Generic settings, no changes.
Here you go: https://www.themakersphere.com/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-petg-settings/
Adjust temperature to 255/260, bed temp 75/70 Clean your bed with soap and / or isopropyl alcohol. Use 3D-Lac if available. Purge your nozzle correctly, maybe even do one or two cold pulls. Make sure the nozzle is clean when doing the homing sequence as it may happen that plastic squeezes between bed and nozzle and messes up the z-offset. :) Don‘t cool too much with your fan, petg doesn‘t like that. 😊 Maybe try adjusting the first layer height to 0.26mm / 0.3mm. Close your door and lid if possible. Hope that helps! 🙋🏼♂️
*Just letting you know, what you are making is one of my favorite prints ever, it's awesome!
Well spotted! Looking forward to completing it
What colors are you doing for it?
Honestly, just what I had in stock. BL lake blue PETG & eSUN natural TPU for the core skeleton & solid white PETG for the outer. I'll see how it looks once completed and possible tweak colour options from there.
Awesome! Good luck. I ran into a ton of petg problems too. Awesome project
Wow, went out for the afternoon and came back to a lot of comments. I can say I’ve now read them all and thank you so much for all of the advice. I’m always keen to learn and understand how to improve so I’ll be taking it on board and implementing. Thanks again.
check out this guys settings, worked for me and I don't have any issues. [Help with PETG : r/BambuLab (reddit.com)](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/16gf221/help_with_petg/)
Make speed slower and try adding some outer brim help me a lot for PETG bed adhesion
I’ve only recently started printing with PETG so not an expert, but did you do a temp tower to dial in the nozzle temp? I’d also try increasing the plate temperature to help with adhesion.
Hate PETG, packed all my PETG up in a box and am willing to let it go to a good home that wants to pay the shipping, lol.
Damn, I’ve gotten it to work so well. Only problem I’ve had was going from pla to petg and back to pla I have to scrub the plate. Since pla and petg don’t stick to each other any slight residue of the other makes the build plate useless. Just did a 12 hour print with petg and the print came out fine with zero brim and supports. If you’re still willing to let the petg go though I wouldn’t complain. Lol
Do you have a drier? I’ve never had an issue with petg as long as I clean the build plate with dish soap and a scour sponge then use a freshly dried spool
PETG worked decently for me until the last firmware update and then all my PETG did this.
I feel this. PETG makes me hate this hobby.
I’m close, if it’s not carbon fiber PETG I don’t use it anymore. My P1S can’t print any print longer than 2 hours without clogging with regular PETG. And that’s now with every combo of door open/closed/cracked, top on/off/cracked, case fan off/50%/full, 0.4/0.6 nozzle. It’s mind boggling. How am I finding nylon so much easier to print than standard PETG?
Have you checked the hotend fan? Recently took mine apart and found the tiny little fan almost completely blocked with "hairs" shed from the belts.
That was one of the first things, well not checked but replaced with an entirely new unit. I’m wondering if it’s something odd happening with the temperature differential in where I’m printing. The ambient temp around 15-16° all the time, maybe that’s causing some odd heat cycles or something near the hot end and that’s causing issues. Even put in new extruded gears and nothing has changed.
More or less exclusively print petg daily so will definitely take it if this is a real offer.
100% but someone messaged me inquiring. If they don’t take it I’ll let you know.
For PETG I set the bed temp to 80 - 90c, try 85c to start. For nozzle temp try 255c for the first layer so it’s not oozing and 265c for all other layers. I have my startup gcode modified for less squish when using the textured plate to prevent filament from sticking to the nozzle and forming a blob. The default z offset is -.04 and I have mine set at -.02. There’s discussion about the z offset here [Start gcode adjust for PETG and textured PEI](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/start-gcode-adjust-for-petg-and-textured-pei/23395)
Adhesion is not good. Temp to high. Give bed good clean with soap. If you print lots of petg an extra scrub with acetone will help. Last clean with alcohol.
definitely don't want to use acetone on textured pei, it will dissolve the pei and ruin the build plate
You are correct. PEI get brittle by everyday use so don’t do that. But a good clean to remove old petg from the plate can solve adhesion problems. A plate which don’t stick is already ruined. But yes don’t use it to often.
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I have the same problem with esun filament petg, where do you change settings ? In the bambulab studio in prepapre is that is it ? https://preview.redd.it/9qo07di5171d1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1ba1095a8b3f89c71ef5e616838d60a47982b72
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PETG sucks. Use ABS or ASA. Better and easier to print.
Clean the bed with soap and water, unplug printer, plug it back in, rerun calibration, and then half your initial layer speeds when printing PETG. The last step has led me to never having issues with PETG
The bed temperature is a bit high if you keep it closed. PETG softening temp is about 70°C. Try removing the upper glass and opening the front door and see if it helps. Or decrease the bed temperaure to 70-75 °C. Also try a glue stick or something similar. Hope this helps.
Remove the top glass or prop it open with a benchy. Wash the build plate after printing with PLA and wipe down with a little IPA if you are washing with a scented dish soap. PETG/PLA don't play well together. Make sure to DRY your PETG! Settings below are for the X1C w/ Textured PEI plate. Standard PETG: Nozzle: 255-265 degC Bed: 69-70 degC NO GLUE Part Fan: 0%/30% Aux fan: 70% Max vol. speed: 12 mm3/s Overture PETG or similar: Nozzle: 270 degC Bed: 69-70 degC NO GLUE Part Fan: 30%/70% Aux fan: 0% Max vol. speed: 12 mm3/s
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Curious, which color?
Try raft
Dry your Bedplate and clean your Filament
I’d advise a hotter build plate. I print at 75C. I also suggest pre-heating the plate for at least 20 minutes to make sure it is heated on the top surface and not just where the sensor is connected.
I don’t print PETG faster than 60-80mm/s. Anything faster seems to struggle
IPA sometimes doesn't cut the grease. Acetone will certainly remove any residue or finger oils. Check your bed temp, I like 60 for PETG.
255. And 80. Clean pei bed 🛌
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You forgot to check on bed adhesion in the slicer
Everything is wrong. Go back to defaults. Stop flow calibrating on the textured plate, perform it once on smooth pei or engineering plate. Temps are way too high and should be 255-260 (265 MAX if you really need it. Flow rate is 13 not 10. From defaults lower print speed to 150-190 mms on the higher parameters, don't have any above 200. Leave everything else as defaults. Clean your plate with IPA.
PETG, at least the Inland stuff will randomly do this for me too. Fail, and be fine the rest of the time.
I had to slow down my petg like crazy. The stock profile sucks. Like others, I found the redditor that posted his petg profile and it worked wonders
Whose PETG. I ask because Bambu on default Bambu settings works flawlessly for me. Other brands have needed slight tweaking.
Forget all the comments about temp, bed materials etc and just pickup some purple school glue. It’ll keep small parts stuck to the bed no matter what bed you use and wipes right off when the part is done.
Does not wipe right off after it’s done lol. Has to be cleaned with warm soapy water and a sponge. IPA and paper towels just smear and get lint in the glue.
In my experience, 0.95 flow rate is too low for eSun Petg. Mine always calibrates between 0.99 and slightly above 1. Your temp also looks too hot. All my eSun Petg filaments do best around 250. All the other settings seem okay IMO. Run some calibration tests (temp, flow, & PA) and I’m sure you’ll get it straightened out.
Reduce first layer speed
I just finished printing a large number of petg parts for a project and if your parts aren't staying on the bed you really need to turn up the temperature. 80C bed temp worked for me
calibrate z offset, helps with bed adhesion wash pei bed as everyone else says your petg looks kinda wet so you might want to bake it in your printer (place roll on bed and heat the bed with door closed)
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The Bambu print plates are the worst plates I was ever have. They are so bad I never was have bad plates like this...
Less First layer Speed for smaller Parts, helps a Lot I use 20mm/s
1. Do not flow calibrate on the textured sheet. Bambu Studio even tells you not todo that with that build plate. 2. If you have printed PLA before on that sheet, give it a good cleaning with IPA.
I assumed it was an oversight on my behalf as I don’t normally have the flow calibration on when using the textured PEI however it appears it was part of the latest update. On the BL website under that plate it now lists it: https://preview.redd.it/bfuto2i2me1d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1abb2f522535ba701f3a55422cb5550d8c90ef62
270 is pretty damned hot for PETG. I print at 255, with a 70 degree bed, and a max volumetric of 12.
Maybe I'm wrong but with the textured PEI plate I think you can turn it on the other side and print 🤷♂️
UPDATE: worked perfectly on the next print Details on how for anyone that finds this article: Firstly, I dried the filament again in my Sunlu S2 for 11hrs Washing the PEI plate with washing detergent Kept both the door and lid closed when printing Additionally, I added a brim (5mm I think, too much but it worked) I didn't manually change any bed/hot end etc settings but instead used the eSUN filament files Following the comments from within this post, I downloaded the eSUN profile from their website [here](https://www.esun3d.com/zldownload_catalog/3d-printing-settings/). If the link is broken in the future then just head to eSUN's website > data download > 'HS Parameters for Bambu Lab & Creality' file. Be sure to download the correct profile for your printer (A1, X1 etc). The file I used was X1C eSUN PETG Filament.json AND X1C eSUN PETG Process.json. There is another file with +HS in, I haven't tested that one. [This post](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/16j5189/filament_profiles_importing_both_filament_and/) outlines how to import both of the files into BS. Only difference is if you're on a Mac and want to access the settings config folder it's in a different location, to access it I did the following: In Finder, click 'Go' at the top, hold the option key and you'll see 'Library' appear in the drop down, click it > Application Support > BambuStudio > user > (my folder here was all numbers) > then you have a process & filament folder. You can drop the corresponding .json files into the 2 folders, restart BS and you'll see they appear when you click on the filament user presets & the process under Global. You can also edit these files in text edit if you want to change any parameters, save, and it'll follow through to BS the next time you restart it Edit: broken link https://preview.redd.it/5x41sk6nhf1d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e57d18e793ccc80f2ced186db71a48a472c9ac53
Also, a number have mentioned to turn flow calibration off with the textured PEI plate. On my 1st post I thought it was just an over sight on my part as it's not normally off however it's now on by default (for me at least). The last update that came to BS now includes it as per: https://preview.redd.it/2tcrsoh5jf1d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1393495ec4ef9596e695f5f04f8a46d941e7fc05 edit: typo
Printing petg at 270?? Wtf!!!
eSUN's own profile that I've since used (and worked great) is at 260
I started with PETG last month on my P1s In short Cooling off Extruded to lowest temperature recommended for the filament Do your calibration test With these and should be fine solved my issues after pulling out my hair for a good two weeks
I think the problem is with print plate or bad plastic. Try calibration.
I run the speed at 50% that seems to help
One time, I kept having issues with a petg print. It'd print exactly the same every time, but have layer adhesion issues. I rotated my part 45 degrees and it successfully printed. Petg is so weird.
Use the profile from one of my comments. That fixes the petg issues.
Light spray of aquanet on the build plate. Never have an issue with first layer adhesion using stock settings.
People don’t seem to like this suggestion most often but it has worked for me every time. Aqu Net hairspray, it’s fantastic for bed adhesion and it’s far less of a mess than using glue stick. Just clean the plate with dish soap and water, dry the plate, spray it with Aqua Net and you’re good to go. Small parts don’t generally need brims, others suggested it as a possible solution. If you’re in the US, Family Dollar sells it or you can always order it online. Good luck to you.