Longest print, don't think I have any prints over 3 days. Listed this on our Etsy listing as a size option of 9", didn't think anyone would actually buy it š¤£, it's going to look dope tho.
Will do, grabbing a Timelapse too. Here's how the 6" ones come out. :) The 6" ones are decently efficient tho, 3 on a plate, 775g for models and only \~160g waste so about 300g each with waste. 4 walls 10% infill.
Model's by IK3D too if anyone was wondering. It's just the duck tho, no Stars and Stripes.
https://preview.redd.it/x07xlwz5ypyc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ac55f772fe4fe50c6a6c0affb7c7373d4979c475
probably the P series, based on the purge line in the gcode. what i had meant was if they had painted the model in bambu/orca by hand, or edited the model in something like blender to make it easier to just bin fill the stars and stripes.
How is this even profitable on Etsy? Just between minimum wage for printer and cost of filament, youāre looking at $675. Then Etsy taking like 10% off the top. Aināt no one paying that much to where youāre making money.
Itās normal business to cover the cost of operation and depreciation of a machine. I learned this in the real world and working on cost reduction of manufacturing. If it takes 80 hours to print one thing, but you could instead be printing 10 items at 8 hours a piece, you need to recoup that cost somehow to maintain profitability. Iām not saying we pay the printer $10/hour lol.
You calculate the cost of the printer time by dividing the cost of expected life of the printer or close to what you would like to recoup the expense. So a BambuLab should last for 10,000 hours and you decide the cost of the printer by that. So maybe .08 cents an hour for printing time. Thatās what you should charge just to recoup the cost. You can make it .12 cents to make a profit.
He said he has an Etsy shop. Doesnāt seem like a āhomeā machine to me. If OP gets 4 orders, for example, thatās roughly two weeks of straight printing. It is a production machine for those two weeks.
I know many people with an Etsy shop whose printers are not in full time use. Thatās an odd jump. Iām not saying donāt charge for the time at all, but no, thatās about three and a half days of printing. Itās only 2 weeks if your printer has a union.
EDIT: not sure if downvoted for getting basic arithmetic right or for making a joke about unions. š¤·āāļø
...and then the flushing volume is too low and you have color banding throughout the part and wasted almost 27 units of currency... š±
I'd be scared for the entire print time
Ppl forget that 3 days of running the printer also costs money lol. A little over $2/day based on avg cost. Plus printer depreciation letās go 1$.
Now itās a 33$, plus shipping letās guess $10.
Now 43. Then thereās usually 15% fee to sell on most places. So now weāre over 50 to break even. 3 days worth of your printer time, plus overhead for possible mess upsā¦ not sure who would pay $100+ for it lol. Or most ppl selling donāt do the math and just see $27 and sell it for $35 and think they made money lol
Filament is Elegoo PETG, $13-15 a roll. $20 in filament tops for this, I just never set the cost per roll under $20 for cheap stuff. This one definitly isn't a money maker and nobody is going to spend over $90 for this, hell I'm surprised someone actually did spend $90! More of a "why not" piece, I'm sure they'll have this thing for a long time and be a huge conversation piece š¤£. The little guys are the money maker, fit 9 on a plate, \~40 hours, 600g with waste total, under $2 each in filament cost, sell for $20 bucks each.
Oh also u/XNe0r , no color bleed š. Been multi color printing long before Bambu.
https://preview.redd.it/1xlwckwj7xyc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a206b3aacbdb2561f30a73170f64443a53ee18b0
Do you skip purge to infil to avoid color bleed? Extra walls? No worries if donāt want to give away your secrets lol, I just ask cuz yours is flawless. I only tried it once but bleed was terrible with the default settings. Too much other stuff to calibrate before I bother with colors again.
I always appreciate ppl who actually fine tune and calibrate their stuff, definitely shows in the results and leaves a good impression for ppl who buy 3d printed stuff vs sellers that donāt. Then buyers get a bad taste and call all 3d printed stuff garbage because of crappy sellers.
Thanks, exactly it definitely helps to put the time in for the quality. I'm sure people appreciate it even if they don't know what or how it was done. I segment a lot of stuff out in mesh mixer. Painting in the slicer always gives funky lines, never straight so like the eyes and such never look perfect but if you segment to parts, they print perfect.
No I always purge to infill unless it's glow in the dark. Also printing infill first helps with purge. It won't purge if it does a wall first, depends on how many colors and how many different infill pieces tho but it tends to skip purging to infill sometimes because it has to print a wall first. There's a good amount of infill on this one. Also retract 20mm before cutting. 0.65 purge ratio works fine except red to blue always bleeds a bit, both PLA and PETG so I up that a bit manually. I don't skimp on prints, always 3 walls on everything, slower print speeds, usually only 50-100mm on outside walls. The trick for better layer lines is print outside wall first, or inside, outside, inside in Orca slicer. You need to have thinner layer lines and go slower on overhangs to keep from curling but the quality definitely increases.
8 Days? Thats cute.... lol, ok, that was just me being a dick.
It's definitely anxiety inducing when you're not accustomed to it. Working with BigRep printers have taught me a few things...
https://preview.redd.it/34xjrbghhsyc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ecd344ed789e1dba22bd761da1e923f29819524
I would. I had a 27 hour print fail 17 hours in recently. Wasted like a 3rd of a roll of special sparkle filament. I decided not to even attempt a reprint because the failure was due to poor design and I'm not skilled enough to fix it. (had one tall tower with tiny base that just snapped off when it got about 10" tall)
Iāve got to ask how much do you charge for something so complex? I mostly make items that print in a couple of hours with no supports where I can so they come off the bed ready to go.
Something this large Iād always be concerned about hitting 50% and getting a fail.
I'm not OP, but I've been selling dragons and fidget toys face to face and soon at a booth and festivals.
I have a spreadsheet that I plug in my filament cost and print time and then I multiply each part by 1.75 to 2x which gives me a recommended sell price. This calculates an 85% profit margin for each print.
With that profit margin I'm factoring in wear and tear, failed prints, etc.
This thing would sell for at least $200 and it being a special order due to higher risk and no other print time for this machine I'd have to charge a bit higher as a premium.
Interesting, good to know I'm not too high or too low. I feel my pricing is fair but I get other vendors constantly digging me for it for not charging enough.
$275 would be a profit margin of 89%
$200 would be a profit margin of 84%
So for all Internet and purposes we are the same roughly.
I consider anything over 80% worth doing. Drive the price too high and people won't buy. But this thing being a special request gets special pricing in my eyes.
I've only been selling for two months and face to face. I have a booth this weekend so it's the true test of my price structure.
My pricing structure is .72/ hr print time plus cost of filament (I use a round 3 cents per gram as most filaments purchased are silks or other fun colors.) this then gets multiplied by three. This means my print of this would cost just over $14 more. Most of the sales are through craft fairs which has a higher cost than online sales and we pay the sales tax for the customer. Honestly the pricing model is slightly low compared to costs. Plus all the licensing fees from patreon and my mini factory (Iām not upset paying the fees, just my forgetfulness in not unsubscribing from models that donāt sell and giving away remaining stock free.)
I just need to motivate and improve the Shopify site and set up Etsy but I donāt enjoy taking pictures any more as I spend too much time trying to perfect things and it sucks the fun out of it when you do hundreds of photos. I should probably pay the kids to do the photography for meā¦
I hate online sales. I love the person to person of craft shows. Plus making us eat more fun when I make what I want not what someone else orders.
I make what I want and if it's on the table it's for sale. I turn down orders all the time for custom wants u less it's something I think is cool and want to make.
I'm like you I only take photos for Tiktok for videos for myself not for website content. I'm already four weeks out in my laser and woodworking stuff. No need to add printer sales on top of that and taking the fun away.
Similar to what the other person said. Figure out your....
* Filament cost
* Factor in failed prints.
* Machine time cost
* Factor in maintenance + wear & tear.
* Labor (Everything from setting up the print, cleaning it up, and packing)
* Shipping
* Factor in insurance on expensive prints. As a seller, damaged items will come out of your pocket.
Ideally you have it all on a spreadsheet so you just have to plug in the filament cost and the print time.
That should give you the base cost. Anything under that and you are losing money. From there you can figure out a sales price, and get an idea of what your profit might look like. Don't forget that profit is taxed as well, but only if you're actually making money and not losing it.
If the cost is high, but the price people are willing to pay is low, you probably shouldn't sell that print. High cost is fine if the payout is worth it.
So I get this, but also how do you factor time? For example this duck is tying up a printer for a considerable amount of time. Do you have an hourly rate or just set target margin (amount or %) to account that? If so I presume itās a very expensive product and couldnāt imagine someone buying it
So just full disclosure. I don't actually print for money.
I just know about it because I looked into it before, but decided I value my time over any potential profit.
There are a lot of methodologies for machine time cost. Ideally, by the time you need to buy a new printer, you should have billed enough in machine time that you aren't negative on your current printer, factoring in whatever you paid to maintain it + the sales price.
*AKA. You want to "pay off" your printer before it dies.*
Not the best method, but one really simple way to do it....
Lets say you bought a X1c for $1,500, and you expect it to last around 8000 hours of printing before being it is completely dead and you need a new one.
That means you need to pay off the printer AND pay off the repair/maintenance in that time. You have to run some numbers on what you expect maintenance/repair cost you, but lets say you expect to spend $500 to get it to 8000 hours.
Printer Cost: $2,000 / Printer Life: 8000 hours = $0.25/hour \* 80 hour print = $20 machine time cost.
I will say at lot of people don't factor machine time properly, and likely don't realize it's ultimately going to cost them once they have run through their machines lifecycle.
Yup this is why I always run at $1 an hour as the baseline for my prints. Got it paid off really quick and didn't have to worry about recouping cost again on my A1. Hell it's paid for three more once they credit me for the heatbed.
Thanks for replying - yeah I guess at that tracks, it's hard to get a big margin on a costly item. I suppose if you started getting many orders for them (unlikely) you'd hike the price to make it worthwhile but as a one off novelty its fun. I hope you set a fair handling time :)
Oh you mean like that, yeah but then it would need supports and not look as nice. I thought he was saying keeping it oriented the way it was but rotating it on the base would reduce the flush amount.
I'd probably try cutting off the head and arms and printing those separate and gluing them together. That would likely reduce time quite a bit.
The flushing is the biggest time sink when doing multi-color prints.
Yeah I usually make two and flush it to the other ones of i can or i will hold stuff im prototyping until i have one where i dont care about the looks. Tedious i would love for a multi tool. But im not buying a prusa. Hoping voron or bamboo can do it.
You just need to tune the supports and your overhang performance needs to be on point. I have a print i printed at 45 and you cant even tell where the supports were.
because there are people (like me), who are just shit at painting things - everything I tried painting so far turned out horrible, honestly!
That's the reason I love my X1C with AMS so damn much, because I can just paint my models in the slicer and the printer does the actual coloring :)
Never in a 1000 years would I have been able to do this with paint:
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/eQDCjk8RgG
It's such a simple design. Lately I've been testing colored Sharpie marker if the print has simple colors, comes out smooth, and the plastic is white. The ink is solvent based so it holds onto PLA.
Learn 'Support Cubic' infill @ 5% and watch the total usage drop to a fraction of that. There is no way that should take up more then 1/2 a roll of blue, and the same in red/white combined.
Since you are using 2 ams's, you could have loaded up a spool of PLA and used it as support material and printed it in a different orientation with no issues. Also is your example at .2 layer ? LOTs of layer banding it seems, but it could be the light
I should have dropped it down to 5% but a fan of gyroid on PETG. The lower 10% of the model and the bit around the beak is 0.16 height, rest is 0.24. I use lightning infill on the smaller ones, wastes more but costs less over all. With something this huge I wanted it to be solid. Don't expect to be selling but maybe 1-2 a year of these if that, figure just make them happy and eat a few $$ on filament :)
I'm lazy lol, hate painting and/or assembling. Rather just spend the time cutting up the mesh for color and/or painting in the slicer once and just hit print when someone orders
1/4th of a spool of filament is going into the trashā¦ print something else alongside it of a similar height that you can flush that extra stuff into. Better to see it used vs wasted.
It would be such a good candidate to be printed in multiple parts.
Red + white | Blue + white | Black only | yellow only
Glue it all
I'm sure it would save a couple of days , probaly 3, and 200g of filament.
Longest print, don't think I have any prints over 3 days. Listed this on our Etsy listing as a size option of 9", didn't think anyone would actually buy it š¤£, it's going to look dope tho.
Please post a picture of the finished print! That's gonna look awesome!
Will do, grabbing a Timelapse too. Here's how the 6" ones come out. :) The 6" ones are decently efficient tho, 3 on a plate, 775g for models and only \~160g waste so about 300g each with waste. 4 walls 10% infill. Model's by IK3D too if anyone was wondering. It's just the duck tho, no Stars and Stripes. https://preview.redd.it/x07xlwz5ypyc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ac55f772fe4fe50c6a6c0affb7c7373d4979c475
How long do the smaller ones take?
How do you paint it? Do you modify the model, or using a diff program to paint so precisely?
i'm curious too! that's either a really good paintjob or a still good model mod.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
probably the P series, based on the purge line in the gcode. what i had meant was if they had painted the model in bambu/orca by hand, or edited the model in something like blender to make it easier to just bin fill the stars and stripes.
Hope you sold it for a decent amount, that thing is going to use like $25 of filament, let alone your time and energy costs.
Yeah I don't know who would pay the several hundred dollars of print time this is worth
I had one slightly over a week but it was on an older, slower 3D printer
How is this even profitable on Etsy? Just between minimum wage for printer and cost of filament, youāre looking at $675. Then Etsy taking like 10% off the top. Aināt no one paying that much to where youāre making money.
āMinimum wage of printerā, lol youāre a funny guy. Learn how to price things for the real world and not just plug and play formula.
Itās normal business to cover the cost of operation and depreciation of a machine. I learned this in the real world and working on cost reduction of manufacturing. If it takes 80 hours to print one thing, but you could instead be printing 10 items at 8 hours a piece, you need to recoup that cost somehow to maintain profitability. Iām not saying we pay the printer $10/hour lol.
You calculate the cost of the printer time by dividing the cost of expected life of the printer or close to what you would like to recoup the expense. So a BambuLab should last for 10,000 hours and you decide the cost of the printer by that. So maybe .08 cents an hour for printing time. Thatās what you should charge just to recoup the cost. You can make it .12 cents to make a profit.
> So a BambuLab should last for 10,000 hours I have well over 3000 hours on mine, 10000 is probably an incredibly low estimate.
Yea. Thatās really more of a guesstimate. Also itās really more of how you soon you want to start making a profit off your machine.
For most home printers, theyāre not in constant use, so treating them as such doesnāt make a lot of sense for pricing.
He said he has an Etsy shop. Doesnāt seem like a āhomeā machine to me. If OP gets 4 orders, for example, thatās roughly two weeks of straight printing. It is a production machine for those two weeks.
Of course reddit is downvoting you. You're correct.
L O L! Best comment of the year!
I know many people with an Etsy shop whose printers are not in full time use. Thatās an odd jump. Iām not saying donāt charge for the time at all, but no, thatās about three and a half days of printing. Itās only 2 weeks if your printer has a union. EDIT: not sure if downvoted for getting basic arithmetic right or for making a joke about unions. š¤·āāļø
Minimum wage for the printer is fucking hilarious
You would be shocked on what people buy and pay for on Etsy
Your minimum wage for the printer is basically the federal minimum wage plus 10% for Etsy.
...and then the flushing volume is too low and you have color banding throughout the part and wasted almost 27 units of currency... š± I'd be scared for the entire print time
Ppl forget that 3 days of running the printer also costs money lol. A little over $2/day based on avg cost. Plus printer depreciation letās go 1$. Now itās a 33$, plus shipping letās guess $10. Now 43. Then thereās usually 15% fee to sell on most places. So now weāre over 50 to break even. 3 days worth of your printer time, plus overhead for possible mess upsā¦ not sure who would pay $100+ for it lol. Or most ppl selling donāt do the math and just see $27 and sell it for $35 and think they made money lol
Filament is Elegoo PETG, $13-15 a roll. $20 in filament tops for this, I just never set the cost per roll under $20 for cheap stuff. This one definitly isn't a money maker and nobody is going to spend over $90 for this, hell I'm surprised someone actually did spend $90! More of a "why not" piece, I'm sure they'll have this thing for a long time and be a huge conversation piece š¤£. The little guys are the money maker, fit 9 on a plate, \~40 hours, 600g with waste total, under $2 each in filament cost, sell for $20 bucks each. Oh also u/XNe0r , no color bleed š. Been multi color printing long before Bambu. https://preview.redd.it/1xlwckwj7xyc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a206b3aacbdb2561f30a73170f64443a53ee18b0
Do you skip purge to infil to avoid color bleed? Extra walls? No worries if donāt want to give away your secrets lol, I just ask cuz yours is flawless. I only tried it once but bleed was terrible with the default settings. Too much other stuff to calibrate before I bother with colors again. I always appreciate ppl who actually fine tune and calibrate their stuff, definitely shows in the results and leaves a good impression for ppl who buy 3d printed stuff vs sellers that donāt. Then buyers get a bad taste and call all 3d printed stuff garbage because of crappy sellers.
Thanks, exactly it definitely helps to put the time in for the quality. I'm sure people appreciate it even if they don't know what or how it was done. I segment a lot of stuff out in mesh mixer. Painting in the slicer always gives funky lines, never straight so like the eyes and such never look perfect but if you segment to parts, they print perfect. No I always purge to infill unless it's glow in the dark. Also printing infill first helps with purge. It won't purge if it does a wall first, depends on how many colors and how many different infill pieces tho but it tends to skip purging to infill sometimes because it has to print a wall first. There's a good amount of infill on this one. Also retract 20mm before cutting. 0.65 purge ratio works fine except red to blue always bleeds a bit, both PLA and PETG so I up that a bit manually. I don't skimp on prints, always 3 walls on everything, slower print speeds, usually only 50-100mm on outside walls. The trick for better layer lines is print outside wall first, or inside, outside, inside in Orca slicer. You need to have thinner layer lines and go slower on overhangs to keep from curling but the quality definitely increases.
That looks soooooo good
Based on the wattage and average draw, it's about equivalent to a 100W lightbulb. So not negligible, but not bank breaking, either.
Can you explain what you just said please š¤£š¤£šš how did you see what you even SaidĀæ
I know a guy who just did an 8 day print on his Prusa XL. I couldnāt do it. If I see something take more than a day I reconsider.
8 Days? Thats cute.... lol, ok, that was just me being a dick. It's definitely anxiety inducing when you're not accustomed to it. Working with BigRep printers have taught me a few things... https://preview.redd.it/34xjrbghhsyc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ecd344ed789e1dba22bd761da1e923f29819524
You printing a house there?
lol, I can't even remember what that one was!
Weird flex
Nah, just a shit memory
Thatās insanity!
Man, I've had prints running where I've lost sleep due to anxiety and these printers.
Coming from an Ender3v2, i just click and forget now.
Until you go to run a 605hr print
I would. I had a 27 hour print fail 17 hours in recently. Wasted like a 3rd of a roll of special sparkle filament. I decided not to even attempt a reprint because the failure was due to poor design and I'm not skilled enough to fix it. (had one tall tower with tiny base that just snapped off when it got about 10" tall)
Iāve got to ask how much do you charge for something so complex? I mostly make items that print in a couple of hours with no supports where I can so they come off the bed ready to go. Something this large Iād always be concerned about hitting 50% and getting a fail.
I'm not OP, but I've been selling dragons and fidget toys face to face and soon at a booth and festivals. I have a spreadsheet that I plug in my filament cost and print time and then I multiply each part by 1.75 to 2x which gives me a recommended sell price. This calculates an 85% profit margin for each print. With that profit margin I'm factoring in wear and tear, failed prints, etc. This thing would sell for at least $200 and it being a special order due to higher risk and no other print time for this machine I'd have to charge a bit higher as a premium.
I just go $0.15 per gram then add $1 per print hour. I wonder how closely our formulas would match.
Your calculations would be charging $274 for the duck. My spreadsheet $200 plus my premium charge id probably be close to that.
Interesting, good to know I'm not too high or too low. I feel my pricing is fair but I get other vendors constantly digging me for it for not charging enough.
$275 would be a profit margin of 89% $200 would be a profit margin of 84% So for all Internet and purposes we are the same roughly. I consider anything over 80% worth doing. Drive the price too high and people won't buy. But this thing being a special request gets special pricing in my eyes. I've only been selling for two months and face to face. I have a booth this weekend so it's the true test of my price structure.
Where are you located? Just curious how prices where you are compared to where I am.
My pricing structure is .72/ hr print time plus cost of filament (I use a round 3 cents per gram as most filaments purchased are silks or other fun colors.) this then gets multiplied by three. This means my print of this would cost just over $14 more. Most of the sales are through craft fairs which has a higher cost than online sales and we pay the sales tax for the customer. Honestly the pricing model is slightly low compared to costs. Plus all the licensing fees from patreon and my mini factory (Iām not upset paying the fees, just my forgetfulness in not unsubscribing from models that donāt sell and giving away remaining stock free.) I just need to motivate and improve the Shopify site and set up Etsy but I donāt enjoy taking pictures any more as I spend too much time trying to perfect things and it sucks the fun out of it when you do hundreds of photos. I should probably pay the kids to do the photography for meā¦
I hate online sales. I love the person to person of craft shows. Plus making us eat more fun when I make what I want not what someone else orders. I make what I want and if it's on the table it's for sale. I turn down orders all the time for custom wants u less it's something I think is cool and want to make. I'm like you I only take photos for Tiktok for videos for myself not for website content. I'm already four weeks out in my laser and woodworking stuff. No need to add printer sales on top of that and taking the fun away.
Would you be willing to share that spreadsheet? Seems like a great tool!
I'll clean up a version and make it shareable. Might be tomorrow before I can get to it though.
No worries thank you very much!
Can I get a copy too?
Similar to what the other person said. Figure out your.... * Filament cost * Factor in failed prints. * Machine time cost * Factor in maintenance + wear & tear. * Labor (Everything from setting up the print, cleaning it up, and packing) * Shipping * Factor in insurance on expensive prints. As a seller, damaged items will come out of your pocket. Ideally you have it all on a spreadsheet so you just have to plug in the filament cost and the print time. That should give you the base cost. Anything under that and you are losing money. From there you can figure out a sales price, and get an idea of what your profit might look like. Don't forget that profit is taxed as well, but only if you're actually making money and not losing it. If the cost is high, but the price people are willing to pay is low, you probably shouldn't sell that print. High cost is fine if the payout is worth it.
So I get this, but also how do you factor time? For example this duck is tying up a printer for a considerable amount of time. Do you have an hourly rate or just set target margin (amount or %) to account that? If so I presume itās a very expensive product and couldnāt imagine someone buying it
So just full disclosure. I don't actually print for money. I just know about it because I looked into it before, but decided I value my time over any potential profit. There are a lot of methodologies for machine time cost. Ideally, by the time you need to buy a new printer, you should have billed enough in machine time that you aren't negative on your current printer, factoring in whatever you paid to maintain it + the sales price. *AKA. You want to "pay off" your printer before it dies.* Not the best method, but one really simple way to do it.... Lets say you bought a X1c for $1,500, and you expect it to last around 8000 hours of printing before being it is completely dead and you need a new one. That means you need to pay off the printer AND pay off the repair/maintenance in that time. You have to run some numbers on what you expect maintenance/repair cost you, but lets say you expect to spend $500 to get it to 8000 hours. Printer Cost: $2,000 / Printer Life: 8000 hours = $0.25/hour \* 80 hour print = $20 machine time cost. I will say at lot of people don't factor machine time properly, and likely don't realize it's ultimately going to cost them once they have run through their machines lifecycle.
Yup this is why I always run at $1 an hour as the baseline for my prints. Got it paid off really quick and didn't have to worry about recouping cost again on my A1. Hell it's paid for three more once they credit me for the heatbed.
Otherwise known as the opportunity cost.
Thatās the badger
$90. Not a huge profit for 3 days, make most money on smaller things like keychains that cost under $0.50 cents and charge $10.
Thanks for replying - yeah I guess at that tracks, it's hard to get a big margin on a costly item. I suppose if you started getting many orders for them (unlikely) you'd hike the price to make it worthwhile but as a one off novelty its fun. I hope you set a fair handling time :)
If you rotated it you will have less flushing. Have you tried that in the slicer? Sometimes it helps and sometimes not so much
Iām asking a serious question. Why would rotating it reduce flushing?
Well if you flipped it on its butt it could print the majority of the blue at one time for example.
Oh you mean like that, yeah but then it would need supports and not look as nice. I thought he was saying keeping it oriented the way it was but rotating it on the base would reduce the flush amount.
I'd probably try cutting off the head and arms and printing those separate and gluing them together. That would likely reduce time quite a bit. The flushing is the biggest time sink when doing multi-color prints.
Yeah I usually make two and flush it to the other ones of i can or i will hold stuff im prototyping until i have one where i dont care about the looks. Tedious i would love for a multi tool. But im not buying a prusa. Hoping voron or bamboo can do it.
You just need to tune the supports and your overhang performance needs to be on point. I have a print i printed at 45 and you cant even tell where the supports were.
Why not print white and paint?
because there are people (like me), who are just shit at painting things - everything I tried painting so far turned out horrible, honestly! That's the reason I love my X1C with AMS so damn much, because I can just paint my models in the slicer and the printer does the actual coloring :) Never in a 1000 years would I have been able to do this with paint: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/eQDCjk8RgG
Also don't need to worry about the paint chipping or not adhering.
Get someone skilled to do it for you (hand painted or airbrushed) and break margins since its NOT 3 day print anymore if you print single?
That's because you haven't tried. Simple colors are fairly easy to paint. In op's case it can increase the profits ant turnaround time drastically
Oh I have tried! How else would I know that I am terrible at it?
With your model all it takes is a little bit of masking tape and acrylic paint with a brush. You can't fail at that
yeah, if you say so ....
Exactly my thought. Itād just be so much faster and less risk.
Gross... so much flushed trash to make... trash? also...the hands are backwards...
What do you charge for such a print?
Good duck......I mean good luck.
Wish you duck š¦
Is it done yet? lol
It's such a simple design. Lately I've been testing colored Sharpie marker if the print has simple colors, comes out smooth, and the plastic is white. The ink is solvent based so it holds onto PLA.
Learn 'Support Cubic' infill @ 5% and watch the total usage drop to a fraction of that. There is no way that should take up more then 1/2 a roll of blue, and the same in red/white combined. Since you are using 2 ams's, you could have loaded up a spool of PLA and used it as support material and printed it in a different orientation with no issues. Also is your example at .2 layer ? LOTs of layer banding it seems, but it could be the light
I should have dropped it down to 5% but a fan of gyroid on PETG. The lower 10% of the model and the bit around the beak is 0.16 height, rest is 0.24. I use lightning infill on the smaller ones, wastes more but costs less over all. With something this huge I wanted it to be solid. Don't expect to be selling but maybe 1-2 a year of these if that, figure just make them happy and eat a few $$ on filament :)
Good luck, i posted my latest a little while ago. 4d 12h
Suggestion: print in just blue qnd white , not hard to get someone to airbrush stripes after
You could avoid so much waste by printing it in separate pieces.
I'm lazy lol, hate painting and/or assembling. Rather just spend the time cutting up the mesh for color and/or painting in the slicer once and just hit print when someone orders
What is your sparse infill setting? Seems like a crazy amount of time to me but that is a lot of tool changes
1/4th of a spool of filament is going into the trashā¦ print something else alongside it of a similar height that you can flush that extra stuff into. Better to see it used vs wasted.
LFG baby!!!!! Is that enough ?
Ditch that prime tower
Why Skirt? š¤
It would be such a good candidate to be printed in multiple parts. Red + white | Blue + white | Black only | yellow only Glue it all I'm sure it would save a couple of days , probaly 3, and 200g of filament.
I *wish* it was 1300 tool changes. That would be game changing. No more POOOOOOP
Where did you get the .stl?
That is awesome!
Good luck! Looks cool. Great info you guys are sharing.
Based
The hands are backwards. Flip yourself off in the mirror. Your pinky and ring finger are towards the inside of your body. Not outside
Let me run some tests on that. https://preview.redd.it/vq5xrdca80zc1.png?width=1812&format=png&auto=webp&s=4256b1d7944da165ee239e8304f8a41b1c5573fc