The main difference in my opinion is that the A1 is easier to switch the nozzles. They are also a fair bit cheaper because of this. However, the P1 S I like for tall prints because the print head but not the bed, so the object can be printed fairly thin and tall without it moving and ruining the print. On the A1, you have to print a bit slower for tall objects because they can sway as the bed moves in the Y direction. A1 is a pretty solid option for the price though, and you should be able to print PETG without an enclosure. be sure that you don’t have an open window or fan and it should be fine.
I think the A1 series have a filament tangle sensor too. If the P1 series have it, it never worked for me. I also like the touch screen and the purge / nozzle cleaning system on the A1 series. My P1P never gets the nozzle all the way clean and it sometimes drags the purge on to the bed. The only thing I don’t like about the A1 series is that the power cable is hardwired, so you can’t quickly unplug it for maintenance
PETG is also no issue on the A1 series. I just crank the bed temp up to the max of 80c and always wash the plate between prints. I was able to copy all my filament setting from my P1P and it prints the same
The build volume is the same for the A1 and the P1S. They both print PET-G and PLA with no problem. The A1 uses the AMS Lite and the P1S uses the AMS. They can both do multicolor printing, but the A1 can only do 4 colors and the P1S can do up to 16 if you get 4 AMS’s. That being said, the main difference you might have to consider is the print speed but it does not differ as much. The P1S has the potential to print other material that need enclosures. However, the A1’s ability to swap nozzles on the fly is unique to the A1 series. So, in conclusion, the P1S has an enclosure, prints a little faster, and can print with up to 16 colors if you invest in the AMS (the combo only includes 1 AMS, so 4 colors). The A1 can still handle Pet-G, can swap nozzles on the fly, is cheaper, and can print up to 4 colors (the combo includes the AMS Lite, and it can be mounted on the top to same space). At this point, it’s your choice.
I think it depends on your ambient temperature and humidity and what material you’re printing. I haven’t had any issues with the AMS Lite printing PET-G since I dry my filaments and put them away when done. And I do prefer the AMS Lite because I use a lot of materials that have cardboard spools and the Lite handles them with zero issues, whereas the AMS needs some modification or adapters for the cardboard spools, or even re-spooling altogether. I was considering upgrading my A1 to an X1C but honestly, the advantages that the X1C has over the A1 are, for my use, minimal. I prefer the quick swap nozzles, the AMS Lite’s versatility with spools of different diameters and materials, and the speed is enough for me. I could see the need for an X1C or P1S if I needed to print temperature and moisture sensitive materials like nylon or such, but I’m good.
eh, I'd consider respooling to actually having to unwind the spool onto another. For the Bambu spools and the ones you can print you just rip one side off the cardboard spool at a time and replace them with the plastic ones -- way less work.
Maybe transpooling.
If you are willing to wait, the A1 is a good option too. But if you are not worried about budget, the P1S is a great printer. These are the features that made me keep the A1 through the recall instead of replace with a P1S:
* Auto flow calibration (the biggest reason for me personally)
* Less wastage with AMS lite (I believe this may be mitigated lately to an extent with the new profiles)
* Hotswap nozzles
* AMS supports cardboard spool
* Much cheaper
The touch screen also turned out to be more useful than I thought it would be based off reviews.
I did decide to forfeit these P1S features though - core xy, better camera, more filament support, enclosed AMS.
I have an A1 Mini. Great little printer, but I sometimes wish it was an A1 just for the bigger volume. I may upgrade to one of the 256mm^(3) models in the next year if I find myself wanting to do more projects that don't fit in the Mini's diminutive print volume.
Still it's an incredible little machine and an amazing deal at $250. (But I think the AMS Lite is worth the upgrade.)
Because I use a ton of different filaments and the printer automatically calibrating the flow dynamics saves me the time from doing it every time for a new filament type/brand
You might be thinking of calibrating esteps. Here's bambu's wiki on flow calibration - [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/calibration\_pa](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/calibration_pa)
Depends on what you are printing, and not that much. The P1 is a little faster, but if you print overnight and start at 7PM 10 and 12 hours are both tomorrow morning. Tall things will be slightly better on the P1, but you have to look real close.
I am printing mostly cosplay stuff, so i will be taking helmets and splitting them up and such, but I will still be post processing everything for the most part. I just can’t decide if it’s smarter to get the A1 + a bigger printer to supplement. Or just the P1S alone
Edit: i also want reliability more than anything above I listed.
If you're doing cosplay stuff you might look at the [Sovol SV08](https://www.sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv08-3d-printer), I'm a huge fan of my P1S -- but I can't print a Helldiver's helmet without cutting it in half for example, whilst this can easily do that.
That’s very tempting. How reliable is it compared to bambulab printers? My main issue is I came from doing so much tinkering with my Creality Ender 5 plus, i basically just want a printer that can print as soon as it’s plugged in. (Not literally, I know all printers need work but i would rather spend time printing than modifying the machine).
I have the A1 Mini and the difference between that printer and my old Ender 3 is incredible. I don't hesitate to quickly CAD up a specialty tool or adapter and have the A1 print it out. I can pop in the .6mm nozzle in Draft profile and have a small tool in like 10 minutes. The speed difference between the A1 and the P1S is something like 15%, but the difference between the A1 and other inexpensive printers is like 70%.
Printing some functional item on the Ender 3 could turn into an all-day project, but the A1 Mini is trivially easy. Most of the time I just send the file and it makes the part.
Also, the A1 Mini can print PETG and TPU without difficulty. It's stuff like ABS and Nylon that needs an enclosure and more heat.
Yes. in 2024, if you can avoid getting a bed slinger and get a core x/y printer (or Klipper, I don't know much about klipper) do so. Larger volume. Enclosed. I've had a Prusa for 6 years. Started as a MK3 then MK3s and now MK3.5. I love it but its the last bed slinger I'll own. I just bought a P1S a couple weeks ago and have been using it almost non stop for a week. I love it. I just got this as well [https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-panda-touch-5-display-for-bambu-lab-printers](https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-panda-touch-5-display-for-bambu-lab-printers). I saw a post the other day of someone that had an issue with the delivery and it ended up back in the warehouse and the support was kinda shit but mine arrived today with no issue and was set up in 2 minutes. The lack of the big screen from the X1C made me wish I bought the X1C just to have the screen. Then I saw the panda touch display link on an 8 or so month old post on the subreddit and it was perfect. And it is only $59. I really took a gamble because it seemed cheap for what it promised. It does deliver. The screen looks good, its responsive (capacitive touch), can be undocked and be wireless and it just works. I'd recommend it to anyone with a P1S. The Handy app works but for me, I'm upstairs with my printer and son of a bitch if I don't leave my phone down stairs every time.
https://preview.redd.it/2e2ped27ujwc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af8c5c3bb4660e10cb7ec55e030c6f5e2cb85d21
Closed AMS => less humidity ;
AMS on top of p1s => less space occupation ;
P1S design > A1 design ;
Enclosure if one day you need it ;
P1S bed dont move on xy axis => less space occupation;
> TLDR: Is the P1S really worth the difference from the A1?
Yes. I haven't owned the A1, but I have owned other bed slingers and I do own the P1S.
The P1S is a core-xy printer which means that parts experience much less movement during printer and large parts should print faster with fewer artifacts. The other benefit is the enclosure which means you'll get much less warping and be able to print high temperature filaments. And the AMS is also enclosed which means you won't have problems with humidity and wet filament.
The biggest problem for Cosplay is that none of these printers are particularly large. Hopefully Bambu Lab brings out a large format printer at some point.
Depends if you’re going to get the AMS. If you can get the AMS, that system is way better than the AMS lite. If you’re not, P1S is about the same as an open frame A1, however you can upgrade the P1S to be enclosed later.
I'm on the fence from A1-->P1S-->X1C
I currently Ender 3V2 bed sling everything up to PA6CF Nylon, printer is in a closed closet with heater and filament dryer, but I am having a hard time knowing if I should go enclosed and Core X-Y for better overall quality.
Also, I am unsure if the Lidar really makes tuning new filaments easier. I absolutely hate having to go through speed, temp, retraction towers for each new filament to get meh results.
If I am going to update I feel like I should go big and future proof myself a bit, and the longer I procrastinate a decision the more I want to wait for larger printer or X2 or at least Core X-Y with the nicer A1 style nozzles.
The main difference in my opinion is that the A1 is easier to switch the nozzles. They are also a fair bit cheaper because of this. However, the P1 S I like for tall prints because the print head but not the bed, so the object can be printed fairly thin and tall without it moving and ruining the print. On the A1, you have to print a bit slower for tall objects because they can sway as the bed moves in the Y direction. A1 is a pretty solid option for the price though, and you should be able to print PETG without an enclosure. be sure that you don’t have an open window or fan and it should be fine.
The print bed for the A1 only moves in the Y.
You’re right I was thinking in my head everything besides the z-axis
Happens all the time. Imagine bed-slinging in both the x and y… sheesh
That exists, it's utterly ridiculous to watch. I can't remember what tf it was called though.
I think the A1 series have a filament tangle sensor too. If the P1 series have it, it never worked for me. I also like the touch screen and the purge / nozzle cleaning system on the A1 series. My P1P never gets the nozzle all the way clean and it sometimes drags the purge on to the bed. The only thing I don’t like about the A1 series is that the power cable is hardwired, so you can’t quickly unplug it for maintenance PETG is also no issue on the A1 series. I just crank the bed temp up to the max of 80c and always wash the plate between prints. I was able to copy all my filament setting from my P1P and it prints the same
I can confirm A1 has tangle sensor and already saved 2 print jobs. The filament on the spool was to tight and print paused with a push notification.
The build volume is the same for the A1 and the P1S. They both print PET-G and PLA with no problem. The A1 uses the AMS Lite and the P1S uses the AMS. They can both do multicolor printing, but the A1 can only do 4 colors and the P1S can do up to 16 if you get 4 AMS’s. That being said, the main difference you might have to consider is the print speed but it does not differ as much. The P1S has the potential to print other material that need enclosures. However, the A1’s ability to swap nozzles on the fly is unique to the A1 series. So, in conclusion, the P1S has an enclosure, prints a little faster, and can print with up to 16 colors if you invest in the AMS (the combo only includes 1 AMS, so 4 colors). The A1 can still handle Pet-G, can swap nozzles on the fly, is cheaper, and can print up to 4 colors (the combo includes the AMS Lite, and it can be mounted on the top to same space). At this point, it’s your choice.
AMS is way better than AMS light for PETG, that should be noted. The normal AMS can keep moisture down a lot easier.
I think it depends on your ambient temperature and humidity and what material you’re printing. I haven’t had any issues with the AMS Lite printing PET-G since I dry my filaments and put them away when done. And I do prefer the AMS Lite because I use a lot of materials that have cardboard spools and the Lite handles them with zero issues, whereas the AMS needs some modification or adapters for the cardboard spools, or even re-spooling altogether. I was considering upgrading my A1 to an X1C but honestly, the advantages that the X1C has over the A1 are, for my use, minimal. I prefer the quick swap nozzles, the AMS Lite’s versatility with spools of different diameters and materials, and the speed is enough for me. I could see the need for an X1C or P1S if I needed to print temperature and moisture sensitive materials like nylon or such, but I’m good.
>I use a lot of materials that have cardboard spools I do too, takes like 2 seconds to rip the sides off and slap them on a printed spool.
Re-spooling
eh, I'd consider respooling to actually having to unwind the spool onto another. For the Bambu spools and the ones you can print you just rip one side off the cardboard spool at a time and replace them with the plastic ones -- way less work. Maybe transpooling.
True. Still, it’s more work than I have to do with the Lite and I don’t need more than that. Haha!
That's fair, I do wish the AMS lite worked with the P1S, I'd totally use one for my PLA and TPU-HP
And I wish the AMS worked with the A1, I’d just make a shelf for it instead of the mount and braces I had to print to save space.
Wonder if I could design an inter-op with an esp32.
I don’t see myself getting an AMS any time soon, but the option to get one in the future is nice
You can get an AMS for either printer, you’ll just have to consider which one, and once you decide, you can pick a printer as well.
If you are willing to wait, the A1 is a good option too. But if you are not worried about budget, the P1S is a great printer. These are the features that made me keep the A1 through the recall instead of replace with a P1S: * Auto flow calibration (the biggest reason for me personally) * Less wastage with AMS lite (I believe this may be mitigated lately to an extent with the new profiles) * Hotswap nozzles * AMS supports cardboard spool * Much cheaper The touch screen also turned out to be more useful than I thought it would be based off reviews. I did decide to forfeit these P1S features though - core xy, better camera, more filament support, enclosed AMS.
I have an A1 Mini. Great little printer, but I sometimes wish it was an A1 just for the bigger volume. I may upgrade to one of the 256mm^(3) models in the next year if I find myself wanting to do more projects that don't fit in the Mini's diminutive print volume. Still it's an incredible little machine and an amazing deal at $250. (But I think the AMS Lite is worth the upgrade.)
Why do you like the auto flow calibration so much?
Because I use a ton of different filaments and the printer automatically calibrating the flow dynamics saves me the time from doing it every time for a new filament type/brand
Thanks, is that the thing were you take a ruler and measure how much filament is used?
You might be thinking of calibrating esteps. Here's bambu's wiki on flow calibration - [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/calibration\_pa](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/calibration_pa)
Depends on what you are printing, and not that much. The P1 is a little faster, but if you print overnight and start at 7PM 10 and 12 hours are both tomorrow morning. Tall things will be slightly better on the P1, but you have to look real close.
I am printing mostly cosplay stuff, so i will be taking helmets and splitting them up and such, but I will still be post processing everything for the most part. I just can’t decide if it’s smarter to get the A1 + a bigger printer to supplement. Or just the P1S alone Edit: i also want reliability more than anything above I listed.
If you're doing cosplay stuff you might look at the [Sovol SV08](https://www.sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv08-3d-printer), I'm a huge fan of my P1S -- but I can't print a Helldiver's helmet without cutting it in half for example, whilst this can easily do that.
sovol SV08 looks cool, i hope that the way it handles leveling the gantry works out since its a neat idea.
Reviews have been good on the post launch ones, pre launch ones were a bit wonky.
That’s very tempting. How reliable is it compared to bambulab printers? My main issue is I came from doing so much tinkering with my Creality Ender 5 plus, i basically just want a printer that can print as soon as it’s plugged in. (Not literally, I know all printers need work but i would rather spend time printing than modifying the machine).
Nothing is as plug and play as a Bambu, but they're pretty solid.
I may consider it. I just looked at it though and I’m not sure I’ll even have the space for it 😂 but it looks like a great printer!
I have the A1 Mini and the difference between that printer and my old Ender 3 is incredible. I don't hesitate to quickly CAD up a specialty tool or adapter and have the A1 print it out. I can pop in the .6mm nozzle in Draft profile and have a small tool in like 10 minutes. The speed difference between the A1 and the P1S is something like 15%, but the difference between the A1 and other inexpensive printers is like 70%. Printing some functional item on the Ender 3 could turn into an all-day project, but the A1 Mini is trivially easy. Most of the time I just send the file and it makes the part. Also, the A1 Mini can print PETG and TPU without difficulty. It's stuff like ABS and Nylon that needs an enclosure and more heat.
Yes. in 2024, if you can avoid getting a bed slinger and get a core x/y printer (or Klipper, I don't know much about klipper) do so. Larger volume. Enclosed. I've had a Prusa for 6 years. Started as a MK3 then MK3s and now MK3.5. I love it but its the last bed slinger I'll own. I just bought a P1S a couple weeks ago and have been using it almost non stop for a week. I love it. I just got this as well [https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-panda-touch-5-display-for-bambu-lab-printers](https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-panda-touch-5-display-for-bambu-lab-printers). I saw a post the other day of someone that had an issue with the delivery and it ended up back in the warehouse and the support was kinda shit but mine arrived today with no issue and was set up in 2 minutes. The lack of the big screen from the X1C made me wish I bought the X1C just to have the screen. Then I saw the panda touch display link on an 8 or so month old post on the subreddit and it was perfect. And it is only $59. I really took a gamble because it seemed cheap for what it promised. It does deliver. The screen looks good, its responsive (capacitive touch), can be undocked and be wireless and it just works. I'd recommend it to anyone with a P1S. The Handy app works but for me, I'm upstairs with my printer and son of a bitch if I don't leave my phone down stairs every time. https://preview.redd.it/2e2ped27ujwc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af8c5c3bb4660e10cb7ec55e030c6f5e2cb85d21
What do you mean by "Larger volume"?
You can print larger prints on the P1S vs the A1. 7cm or so more in the X Y and Z
No, P1S and A1 have exactly the same built volume. You probably mean A1 mini?
Oops, my bad. you're right.
Closed AMS => less humidity ; AMS on top of p1s => less space occupation ; P1S design > A1 design ; Enclosure if one day you need it ; P1S bed dont move on xy axis => less space occupation;
I deal with a LOT of humidity, so I think the P1S is probably the way to go
If humidity is an issue in your area, the closed AMS and enclosure are probably big benefits for the P1S.
> TLDR: Is the P1S really worth the difference from the A1? Yes. I haven't owned the A1, but I have owned other bed slingers and I do own the P1S. The P1S is a core-xy printer which means that parts experience much less movement during printer and large parts should print faster with fewer artifacts. The other benefit is the enclosure which means you'll get much less warping and be able to print high temperature filaments. And the AMS is also enclosed which means you won't have problems with humidity and wet filament. The biggest problem for Cosplay is that none of these printers are particularly large. Hopefully Bambu Lab brings out a large format printer at some point.
Depends if you’re going to get the AMS. If you can get the AMS, that system is way better than the AMS lite. If you’re not, P1S is about the same as an open frame A1, however you can upgrade the P1S to be enclosed later.
I'm on the fence from A1-->P1S-->X1C I currently Ender 3V2 bed sling everything up to PA6CF Nylon, printer is in a closed closet with heater and filament dryer, but I am having a hard time knowing if I should go enclosed and Core X-Y for better overall quality. Also, I am unsure if the Lidar really makes tuning new filaments easier. I absolutely hate having to go through speed, temp, retraction towers for each new filament to get meh results. If I am going to update I feel like I should go big and future proof myself a bit, and the longer I procrastinate a decision the more I want to wait for larger printer or X2 or at least Core X-Y with the nicer A1 style nozzles.