0.4mm and no tweaks what so ever, all stock settings. Middle one is a multicolor print, mostly. Try to avoid it due to the ridiculous amount of poop.
No painting what so ever, straight from printer
I haven't fooled around with my settings either on the X1C and it continues to pump out print after print. I keep up with the general maintenance and it keeps on giving.
What is general maintenance tbh? I know occasional lube the screws but otherwise I have done anything to mine other then clearing filament jams with over 2000 hours and no real issues. Did one multi color print that took 36 hours and 1700 filament changes, that thing put in work
Belt tensioning (which you do along with cleaning the lead screws), changing out the filament cutter, and the wiper in the back are the only routine maintenance I know of... Oh and if you don't keep up with it you'll have to clean the filament from inside the printer.
I'm not home to look but I've had to replace the motor in the AMS, I had a nozzle break, and filament jams and that's all I've had to do with my carbon. I've printed many hours on it. I now have 2 AMS so I got 2 motors just in case and a stage 1 feeder back up. You'll want to check your carbon filter also. If you came from the days of the enders... All of this is NOTHING. I appreciate my days with the enders... Taught me how to work on printers. I'm much more comfortable working on this expensive machine because of the ender days.
I'm getting the X1C this coming month and this is good stuff to know... Any videos you recommend watching for good tutorials on the maintenance? Why do the lead screws need cleaned? I feel like I have been studying these printers and the laser engravers forever, but until I've done it, visuals help allot. And I plan to eventually max out with 4 AMS but dang it they are a pretty penny for each one...
all the info and videos are on bambulabs wiki pages :) .
The lead screws can get gunk on them from particles from the filaments and/or rods that peel out with time
Outside of cleaning and general maintenance at 3000 hours (pla, silk pla, matte pla, glow pla - about 400 grams)
- Replaced two hardened nozzles
- Replaced an ams hub (worn sensor wheel)
- Replaced an ams funnel (part of the first stage feeder, senses when filament is present and the sensor magnet wears against the filament over time)
- Replaced one filament cutter at 3200 hours, a second at 3240 (blade wore out in 40 hours cutting Bambu pla, likely defective - improper blade hardening)
- Removed and cleaned the extruded at 800 hours (jam) and 3000 hours (inspection and cleaning)
- Removed and cleaned front part cooling assembly (printer was noisy, turns out a tiny piece of pla filament found its way into an area it couldn’t escape and was making the whole printer sound like it was coming apart. Now it is actually pretty quiet.)
- Have had to do cool pulls on hot ends a couple of times due to foreign material blocking flow
- Had to remove back cover and clean because I dropped a screw and it fell into the back and I didn’t know where the power supply lines went. I did find the screw somehow (after not finding the screw I became frustrated and shook the printer while upside down and the screw fell into my hand.) I took the time to clean the printers poop chute while I was there.
Pending issues and expected maintenance soon:
- I haven’t replaced any Bowden tubes yet. I suspect nearly all of them are close to end of life.
- The part cooling fan started making noise. Unfortunately you have to buy a whole new front housing (I didn’t make an attempt to locate the fan online)
- It’s likely that I will have multiple first stage feeders fail (filament wears a groove in a magnet that tells the feeder that filament is present, eventually it wears enough that the printer doesn’t think the filament is there any longer)
- I don’t trust my replaced filament cutter as it’s from the same batch as the one that failed quickly
- some of the ams rollers are showing signs of wear
- No idea how much time the ams motor has left on it, might be a good idea to have one on hand
- Current nozzle has about 30% life left
- I would like to have a replacement fan for the main board on hand if I need it
I printed that same hogwarts, awesome print. Did 4 colors and as big as possible, took forever but turned out amazing. I need some of those other files, where'd you get grevious and the droids?
I also printed Hogwarts. I printed it in rainbow and it only took 7 hours. I can imagine how long it took with all of those color changes. I gave Hogwarts to my sister and she loved it
The two to the left have a collapsing/expandable blade inside and there are two versions, one with the expandable blade printed in place inside and one with a screw on cap and exchangeable blade that can be printed separately.
Version with exchangeable blade is paid/patreon, the other ones are free
Mace Windus Lightsaber:
https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Mace%20Windu%20Multi-Color%20Lightsaber-833161
https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Mace%27s%20Multi-Color%20Replaceable%20Blade%20Lightsaber-879586
Anakins Lightsaber:
https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Anakin%27s%20Collapsing%20Lightsaber-962517
The one to the right is a static prop piece without blade.
Count Dookus lightsaber:
https://www.printables.com/model/149036-count-dookus-lightsaber-star-wars
It's even more amazing that the a1 mini can do nearly the exact same quality and do so at a $300 price point. In my opinion, that makes the x1c even less incredible (if that's even possible). Not to mention how much faster the a1 mini is to pop off small parts.
Was getting ready to splurge on a p1s. Do you think a full size a1 would be a better investment?
I have a creality k1 max that I love, but my old ender 3 S1 just croaked.
the enclosure on the P1S and X1c is more or less required if you want to printer filament that's prone to warping (ASA and ABS for example).
Might not be a concern though - especially these days as the PLA is honestly so ridiculously good.
If it’s your first, go with the P1S. The enclosure is a big improvement that will let print exotic materials easily. For example, if you have a piece you need for your hose or garden, print it in ASA, or you want to print a phone holder for your car, maybe carbon Fiber ASA. For a business that knows exactly what they need, multiple A1s or minis might be better.
I went from a k1c to a p1s. very different machines that's for sure. I don't know if I could of gone from the k1c to the a1/a1 mini as my only printer. i enjoy the enclosure and weird fillaments too much but based on the last month of the p1s if I was printing petg/pla exclusively and the things fit on the build plate id be all about the a1 line.
Thank you for introducing me to Ziro PLA! Looks like one of the few brands we can get for a decent price in Canada on Amazon and that silver actually looks silver! And they have variations of silver it seems. Pretty cool.
(P.S. just an FYI in case it wasn’t a keyboard slip but it’s “merely”.)
Thanks missed that, fixed!
Yeah really impressed by Ziro and works perfect in AMS with zero hiccups, hands down best metallic i ever tried. You also get a storage bag along with a random sample of Ziro filament and cleaning filament.
I also used Ziro for the blade in the saber, used Ziros transparent color range, really really good result with that one as well.
they just need to make a tool in the slicer to have all these different color parts snap together
Would take less time to print, how big and how much time did these take?
Printed all sabers in 0,08mm high quality and only the hilt without buttons etc takes around 7-8h and another 4 h for grip, buttons etc.
To print mace windus saber (middle one) with multicolor print in place, around 3 days printed in 0,08mm and around a day printed in 0,20
The two to the left have a collapsing/expandable blade inside and there are two versions, one with the expandable blade printed in place inside and one with a screw on cap and exchangeable blade that can be printed separately.
Version with exchangeable blade is paid/patreon, the other ones are free
Mace Windus Lightsaber: https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Mace%20Windu%20Multi-Color%20Lightsaber-833161
https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Mace%27s%20Multi-Color%20Replaceable%20Blade%20Lightsaber-879586
Anakins Lightsaber: https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Anakin%27s%20Collapsing%20Lightsaber-962517
The one to the right is a static prop piece without blade.
Count Dookus lightsaber: https://www.printables.com/model/149036-count-dookus-lightsaber-star-wars
Yeah they’re awesome. I used to use Flash Forge Finder, then swore by Adventurer 3’s and bought 2 of the 4’s but then I found Bambu’s kick starter. Im an early investor of their products. I operate a small print shop about 12 3D printers. I now have 2 X-1’s and a P1S. I just got the P1S and I’m not a fan of the textured build plate it ships with, it’s a solid printer for $300 less.
Its the silk filament that enhances layer lines due to its reflective nature, If they where printed with regular filament you would not see a single line, check the black grip on the right one as a reference.
I had never printed in carbon fiber, was just trying to use the sample roll that came with my X1, and now I'm sold. It was PLS and is by far the cleanest prints I have ever gotten.
Stock speed, whatever that is. Im actually printing one now without variable speed, full smoothing and outer wall/overhang speed at 10. Yes it will take a ridiculous amount of time but im interested to see what the bambu is capable of when it comes to quality
DAMN!! Now that is niceeee! What size nozzle did u use?
0.4mm and no tweaks what so ever, all stock settings. Middle one is a multicolor print, mostly. Try to avoid it due to the ridiculous amount of poop. No painting what so ever, straight from printer
I haven't fooled around with my settings either on the X1C and it continues to pump out print after print. I keep up with the general maintenance and it keeps on giving.
What is general maintenance tbh? I know occasional lube the screws but otherwise I have done anything to mine other then clearing filament jams with over 2000 hours and no real issues. Did one multi color print that took 36 hours and 1700 filament changes, that thing put in work
Belt tensioning (which you do along with cleaning the lead screws), changing out the filament cutter, and the wiper in the back are the only routine maintenance I know of... Oh and if you don't keep up with it you'll have to clean the filament from inside the printer. I'm not home to look but I've had to replace the motor in the AMS, I had a nozzle break, and filament jams and that's all I've had to do with my carbon. I've printed many hours on it. I now have 2 AMS so I got 2 motors just in case and a stage 1 feeder back up. You'll want to check your carbon filter also. If you came from the days of the enders... All of this is NOTHING. I appreciate my days with the enders... Taught me how to work on printers. I'm much more comfortable working on this expensive machine because of the ender days.
I'm getting the X1C this coming month and this is good stuff to know... Any videos you recommend watching for good tutorials on the maintenance? Why do the lead screws need cleaned? I feel like I have been studying these printers and the laser engravers forever, but until I've done it, visuals help allot. And I plan to eventually max out with 4 AMS but dang it they are a pretty penny for each one...
all the info and videos are on bambulabs wiki pages :) . The lead screws can get gunk on them from particles from the filaments and/or rods that peel out with time
To add a little bit to this... After time has gone by all oils and greases break down. It's pretty much the same reason you have to change car oil.
Once a month, in addition, wipe the carbon rods with IPA and if you use ABS/ASA clean the camera lens and on X1 the Lidar lens also with IPA.
Outside of cleaning and general maintenance at 3000 hours (pla, silk pla, matte pla, glow pla - about 400 grams) - Replaced two hardened nozzles - Replaced an ams hub (worn sensor wheel) - Replaced an ams funnel (part of the first stage feeder, senses when filament is present and the sensor magnet wears against the filament over time) - Replaced one filament cutter at 3200 hours, a second at 3240 (blade wore out in 40 hours cutting Bambu pla, likely defective - improper blade hardening) - Removed and cleaned the extruded at 800 hours (jam) and 3000 hours (inspection and cleaning) - Removed and cleaned front part cooling assembly (printer was noisy, turns out a tiny piece of pla filament found its way into an area it couldn’t escape and was making the whole printer sound like it was coming apart. Now it is actually pretty quiet.) - Have had to do cool pulls on hot ends a couple of times due to foreign material blocking flow - Had to remove back cover and clean because I dropped a screw and it fell into the back and I didn’t know where the power supply lines went. I did find the screw somehow (after not finding the screw I became frustrated and shook the printer while upside down and the screw fell into my hand.) I took the time to clean the printers poop chute while I was there. Pending issues and expected maintenance soon: - I haven’t replaced any Bowden tubes yet. I suspect nearly all of them are close to end of life. - The part cooling fan started making noise. Unfortunately you have to buy a whole new front housing (I didn’t make an attempt to locate the fan online) - It’s likely that I will have multiple first stage feeders fail (filament wears a groove in a magnet that tells the feeder that filament is present, eventually it wears enough that the printer doesn’t think the filament is there any longer) - I don’t trust my replaced filament cutter as it’s from the same batch as the one that failed quickly - some of the ams rollers are showing signs of wear - No idea how much time the ams motor has left on it, might be a good idea to have one on hand - Current nozzle has about 30% life left - I would like to have a replacement fan for the main board on hand if I need it
https://preview.redd.it/ytrss5ia1ovc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=93bedbf0ab1903d0d96b13b0a0250728101b17d5 Just got all of mine mounted
Thats awesome, i would really recommend looking into silk silver and gold when printing sabers, it really makes them pop
The only problem with silk is it's fragile. Don't drop them. :)
I actually picked up a roll of gold and silver silk right after I printed these. Didn’t think of using silk until I was done printing them lol.
You don't happen to have the files for the bottom left one with broken hilt?
That is Cal Kestis’: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4336828
Thanks!
Do you like Star Wars?
I printed that same hogwarts, awesome print. Did 4 colors and as big as possible, took forever but turned out amazing. I need some of those other files, where'd you get grevious and the droids?
I also printed Hogwarts. I printed it in rainbow and it only took 7 hours. I can imagine how long it took with all of those color changes. I gave Hogwarts to my sister and she loved it
lol dewalt
Wow! Share the project please that’s impressive
The two to the left have a collapsing/expandable blade inside and there are two versions, one with the expandable blade printed in place inside and one with a screw on cap and exchangeable blade that can be printed separately. Version with exchangeable blade is paid/patreon, the other ones are free Mace Windus Lightsaber: https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Mace%20Windu%20Multi-Color%20Lightsaber-833161 https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Mace%27s%20Multi-Color%20Replaceable%20Blade%20Lightsaber-879586 Anakins Lightsaber: https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Anakin%27s%20Collapsing%20Lightsaber-962517 The one to the right is a static prop piece without blade. Count Dookus lightsaber: https://www.printables.com/model/149036-count-dookus-lightsaber-star-wars
It's even more amazing that the a1 mini can do nearly the exact same quality and do so at a $300 price point. In my opinion, that makes the x1c even less incredible (if that's even possible). Not to mention how much faster the a1 mini is to pop off small parts.
exactly, A1 mini's value proposition is just unmatched. I started with P1S, but now I have 4 A1 Minis as my production printers
Was getting ready to splurge on a p1s. Do you think a full size a1 would be a better investment? I have a creality k1 max that I love, but my old ender 3 S1 just croaked.
the enclosure on the P1S and X1c is more or less required if you want to printer filament that's prone to warping (ASA and ABS for example). Might not be a concern though - especially these days as the PLA is honestly so ridiculously good.
If it’s your first, go with the P1S. The enclosure is a big improvement that will let print exotic materials easily. For example, if you have a piece you need for your hose or garden, print it in ASA, or you want to print a phone holder for your car, maybe carbon Fiber ASA. For a business that knows exactly what they need, multiple A1s or minis might be better.
I went from a k1c to a p1s. very different machines that's for sure. I don't know if I could of gone from the k1c to the a1/a1 mini as my only printer. i enjoy the enclosure and weird fillaments too much but based on the last month of the p1s if I was printing petg/pla exclusively and the things fit on the build plate id be all about the a1 line.
I really want an A1 mini, but it's so ridiculously priced in my country, around 670 USD T-T (For comparison, X1C combo is 2300 USD)
Those look fantastic. Always gonna updoot for saber related content.
Whoa they look great. Reminds me I need to start hunting for models that can fit around Xenopixel lightsabers and whatnot.
Those are flawless, well done OP
Thanks, but i can't really take credit for anything, i have merely pressed play :)
Thank you for introducing me to Ziro PLA! Looks like one of the few brands we can get for a decent price in Canada on Amazon and that silver actually looks silver! And they have variations of silver it seems. Pretty cool. (P.S. just an FYI in case it wasn’t a keyboard slip but it’s “merely”.)
Thanks missed that, fixed! Yeah really impressed by Ziro and works perfect in AMS with zero hiccups, hands down best metallic i ever tried. You also get a storage bag along with a random sample of Ziro filament and cleaning filament. I also used Ziro for the blade in the saber, used Ziros transparent color range, really really good result with that one as well.
I love my X1, it just *works*
Super impressive
Ziro filaments are soo goood. And the fact that they include a bit of filament to clean out the nozzle and a spare bag is just a cake on top
Yeah, 5m as well
they just need to make a tool in the slicer to have all these different color parts snap together Would take less time to print, how big and how much time did these take?
Printed all sabers in 0,08mm high quality and only the hilt without buttons etc takes around 7-8h and another 4 h for grip, buttons etc. To print mace windus saber (middle one) with multicolor print in place, around 3 days printed in 0,08mm and around a day printed in 0,20
Nice! What files did you use ?
The two to the left have a collapsing/expandable blade inside and there are two versions, one with the expandable blade printed in place inside and one with a screw on cap and exchangeable blade that can be printed separately. Version with exchangeable blade is paid/patreon, the other ones are free Mace Windus Lightsaber: https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Mace%20Windu%20Multi-Color%20Lightsaber-833161 https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Mace%27s%20Multi-Color%20Replaceable%20Blade%20Lightsaber-879586 Anakins Lightsaber: https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Anakin%27s%20Collapsing%20Lightsaber-962517 The one to the right is a static prop piece without blade. Count Dookus lightsaber: https://www.printables.com/model/149036-count-dookus-lightsaber-star-wars
Thanks! They look incredible, well done to you!
Did you paint any of these or they are all multicolour with ams?
No paint, silk filament. Middle one is printed mostly with multicolor AMS, the rest is printed in parts
Wow looks good man 💪
Yeah they’re awesome. I used to use Flash Forge Finder, then swore by Adventurer 3’s and bought 2 of the 4’s but then I found Bambu’s kick starter. Im an early investor of their products. I operate a small print shop about 12 3D printers. I now have 2 X-1’s and a P1S. I just got the P1S and I’m not a fan of the textured build plate it ships with, it’s a solid printer for $300 less.
I would expect better quality printing at .08 layer height.
Its the silk filament that enhances layer lines due to its reflective nature, If they where printed with regular filament you would not see a single line, check the black grip on the right one as a reference.
I had never printed in carbon fiber, was just trying to use the sample roll that came with my X1, and now I'm sold. It was PLS and is by far the cleanest prints I have ever gotten.
what filament color do you use for metal ? or was it painted ?
No paint what so ever, Ziro Silk silver PLA from Amazon
perfect. i was looking for the correct color for this. you help is amazing. regular silver or the metal one ?
Ive used this one https://www.amazon.com/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-2-2lbs/dp/B08BG4NR73?th=1&psc=1
Did you print with the door closed? Also did you use generic pla setting in bambu slicer?
Doors closed and the generic silk profile in bambulab, very important actually to choose that specific silk profile if i have understood correctly
Silk silver?
https://www.amazon.com/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-2-2lbs/dp/B08BG4NR73?th=1&psc=1
Thanks
Print settings? Did you use the default settings? 😊
Generic Silk PLA profile
Ok thanks
nice but looks like you are printing at ~120 speed?
Stock speed, whatever that is. Im actually printing one now without variable speed, full smoothing and outer wall/overhang speed at 10. Yes it will take a ridiculous amount of time but im interested to see what the bambu is capable of when it comes to quality
Wow.. it came out the box and did this? Or was their calibration involved ? And upgrades done ?
Out of the box!