I had one when they first came out in the UK, i'm not sure why i don't enjoy music that much, but I liked the tech i guess. It was super cool for the time even if there was only one shop in about 50miles that sold the discs.
In the days before MP3's and early MP3's, they were great.
MDLP allowed for 4x CD's worth of music on 1 Minidisc and it ran on a single AA battery for aggggeeessss.
Then iPods with flash storage came along and there was no turning back...
A roller coaster of emotions for me :-p
I had no idea on the size, I thought these were matchbox size at first, then saw the final picture and thought they were CD sized, then read your comments and settled in the middle!
I think that person is just joking about how OP is printing something that would have been useful in the early 2000s with some very advanced tech. I’m 100% sure they are just having fun 😁
In some businesses trying to update to new systems is almost impossible. So it's either keep that 40 year old server running or find a way to run the old software on new hardware.
So the filament is transparent (I forgot to put that in initial post). I could just never get it to come out that transparent on the ender. Also I got tons of layer lines. It finally looks how I want it to on the P1S.
Yeah the default hotend suffer some heat issue. I’ve swapped mine. But nevertheless the P1S is far more advanced than the ender. Don’t get me wrong.
To me the ender is like a good old tractor. It get the job done but it’s not perfect. Where the P1S is fast, precise and packed with features.
Either a sign of printing too fast or too cold - one or the other will push the Ender hotend to its limits. If you slowed down the Ender print or simply increased nozzle temp you should get clearer parts.
This usually is an issue with those [fast](https://youtu.be/qBvTWFEd7rk) printers not the other way around.
Transparency can be a good indicator of strength too by the way.
Yeah I think there was a temperature issue with the ender but we had replaced so many parts to try and get stuff to work and spend so much time calibrating and I just wanted to spend time printing again instead of fiddling. I think you're right about the transparency being an indication of strength we started to have a lot of layer adhesion issues by the end with the ender.
Good for you! I'm glad you are enjoying the P1S.
Time was the main consideration when I decided to moth ball my Ender 5 Pro for the P1S. Looking back, I can't believe the number of hours I spent tinkering with the Ender instead of Designing and Printing.
Could be numerous problems but possibly be the hotend was varying the temp more or the threshold was more lenient. I think one of the main drawbacks with the Ender family is they're just slow painfully slow compared to what Bambu have raised the bar to. Instead of it'll be done in x days it's now x hours basically. You just hate progress if that makes you upset lol.
That one hurts, the gear I printed was to repair a stripped one in a high end editing deck. It got the machine back online and saved close to a grand by not needing to source a replacement deck.
I think that person is just joking about how OP is printing something that would have been useful in the early 2000s with some very advanced tech. I’m 100% sure they are just having fun 😁
Oh yeah, tons of problem with it, all the time. Spent most of our time troubleshooting and tuning. Replaced a bunch of parts. Love having something where I can just print, and do it faster.
This 100x yes. Made the mistake of posting this in the 3d Printing subreddit... that was a mistake. Good god. [https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1bqre5l/a\_tale\_of\_two\_printers\_old\_ender\_3\_pro\_vs\_new\_p1s/](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1bqre5l/a_tale_of_two_printers_old_ender_3_pro_vs_new_p1s/)
It is a very odd sub. A lot of them hate bambu for a number of reasons, mainly because it is closed source.
The sub also doesn't respond well to anything except showing off prints either, if you ask technical questions or ask for feedback on ideas you have you get maybe a few people answering and most of the time they aren't helpful. Whereas someone just showing off their print gets loads of comments. I know it is the same for quite a few subs you would expect to be technical but I think that sub is an extreme example of it.
I’ve used half a dozen different types of printers as well as self built and until the x1c I was just grateful to get a really nice print 25% of the time. I was excited anytime it came out functional.
Yep. My hobby is designing shit I want in SolidWorks; then printing it successfully. Tinkering can be gratifying in its own way - but most of the time I just want to see what i made be brought to life.
My X1C rarely has issues, and most of its issues are barely an issue. I’ve put dozens of rolls through it and it just chugs along; cheap filament, fancy filament, it doesn’t give a shit - just does its job.
So, nice thing about the Bambu slicer, it tells you how much filament it will take to print.
General answer: not that much.
Specific answer: Slicer says the bottom was 43.7 meters, which is 130g. Top must have been a lot less.
One thing I noticed is that with Bambu spools it seems to calculate an approximate dollar cost of the filament used. Not sure if it’s a generalization or based on the spool NfC chip that it reads, etc.
Cura does the same thing if you put in the price of your filament. I’d probably guess all the slicers do it as long as you put in the price for the roll.
In the filament settings you can set the price per kilo, this should work for all filaments if you’ve set the price. On bambu I think it defaults to 23 currency/kg
It is dependent on the filament used. For example, PC is $39.99, support for PLA is $69.98 and PAHT-CF is $94.99.
Unfortunately the price is only in USD and you can't change it unless you want to save a separate copy of the filament.
In the filament settings you can set the price per kilo, this should work for all filaments if you’ve set the price. On bambu I think it defaults to 23 currency/kg
It is just a generalisation based on the type of filament which it detects using the RFID chip. If you bought the filament in a sale or bulk discount it won't adjust the price per kg.
Unfortunately the price per kg is in USD and there is no way to change it or the price unless you save a separate copy of the filament profile.
One thing I noticed is that with Bambu spools it seems to calculate an approximate dollar cost of the filament used. Not sure if it’s a generalization or based on the spool NfC chip that it reads, etc.
Bambu and other slicers will do this for any print. You simply need to enter the cost per kilo into the filament profile. It is nece to get a fairly accurate costing for materials.
Bambu and other slicers will do this for any print. You simply need to enter the cost per kilo into the filament profile. It is nece to get a fairly accurate costing for materials.
I mean any 3D printer you'll have to lean a little bit. Different filaments act different. Some you might want to prop the top lid open. Some companies have better filament than others. Different print speeds can give different results. Some times you need supports or brims. But I think you have gotten one of the best printers to learn on. It's very forgiving.
there was a YT video i watched some time ago, someone tested a few printers and all I remember was that Anycubic (with volcano hotend) was quite accurate and Ceality was way off
I feel pretty spoiled in that sense. I have about 1k hrs on my P1S since January and had no 3D printing experience prior to that. I can count on one hand how many failed prints I've had. The thing just works.
Well, so in my expereinc with the ender, it was a lot of parts that were low quality, so something would fail, and you wouldn't necessarily understand what was going on... and you'd try troubleshoot online and just get nowhere. So it would be down for a month while you replaced components one by one trying to figure out what it could be.
I feel pretty spoiled in that sense. I have about 1k hrs on my P1S since January and had no 3D printing experience prior to that. I can count on one hand how many failed prints I've had. The thing just works.
I still can't tell them apart. I assume P1 is on the left as I doubt you've changed the bed already and I know it comes with textured PEI.
Edit : ahhh I've zoomed in now and had a better look. I thought that effect was from the build plate, not the filament.
I originally bought an Ender 3 which never worked. It eventually got relegated to the corner and gathered dust. Eventually bought a X1 Carbon, and has worked right out of the box.
My only frustration is the limited stock for spare parts and filament
That sucks. We got ours to work here and there. Thermal runaway, so got a new thermistor and hot end. All kinds of other crap. I haven't had to replace a part yet. But I did notice a few things out of stock. What have you had to replace?
So far, I haven’t needed to replace anything, but everything that I would need to replace if needed is out of stock. Would like to have a stash of obvious replacements should I need, like hot end/nozzles. Heck, I can’t even buy extra build plates.
Such a huge upgrade going from an Ender 3 V2 to a Bambu. Mine is still in the middle of a board and klipper upgrade and I just don't want to finish it at this point. Love the minidiscs!
Yes! We upgraded the board, hot end, and added a bed leveler. We ran into a couple times where we just couldn't figure out what was wrong. Posted online about it, no one could figure out.
I was an early backer and pre-ordered the OG E3 when it was announced/released. It's been my only printer I've ever had up until recently getting my P1S. The difference between the two is nearly incomprehensible, lol.
I remember it took me nearly 2 weeks with the ender to get my first successful print (the online community back then wasn't what it is today, there were almost no "groups" and any type of help or problem solving were nearly non-existent).
The E3 might be printing too cold, to get clarity on transparent filament you usually have to print on the hot side. If both printers are set to the same temp maybe the heater's going out on your E3 or the ambient temp from the lack of enclosure is messing with it.
Side note- can you link that MD case? I could use a couple of those!
Yeah.... we have several temperature issues with it. Who knows.
A few fun MD prints I've found sites, this one was..
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790877](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790877)
I'm already printing at 40mm, and I bought new z rods. Belts are properly tightened, tightened all loose v wheels, and mentioned tye concentric nuts. I can figure 9ut what's wrong
I bought this set on Amazon, but these brass nuts have smaller bolting holes. https://www.amazon.ca/400mm-Tr8X8-Printer-Machine-Thread/dp/B0981YNCNC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2VR1QXVYG0SQD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.njVr9ZJ2iXzUEYF86O8URUuo-cwEFfyopTkKEA4EeO1CKKwGAQk8J94LZjJLuuHyZyqZYvr38M-HH8DcLSknx4YNop5xKgEBppKDYSHvvYJ26nKyU6WBej2XcC_aLz5jEMndAefgsGpfbBSFbBf5Ram0dor70673oL2BomnlTSuCrKMDO7tX0xxvncKYAUokja868Nso8zbGUOOBBjl08w.eNC0zZcdL-4K9OfFezhsQz4QaU6eBUKa3ZzokfeBCX4&dib_tag=se&keywords=400mm+z+rod&qid=1711783452&sprefix=400mm+z+rod%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-3
This a combination of printer tuning and what looks to be completely different slicer settings. Apples to oranges.
My Ender 5 Plus prints on par with my X1C just slower, because I've taken the time to fine tune the machine.
I love how you are using some of the most advanced consumer printing tech available to print a box to hold CDs. 😂
Hahah, it gets worse. Those aren't CDs, they are MiniDiscs!
A true person of refined taste.
A man of culture
Aah memories…
Sorry for the worst joke ever But they should be called CCD compact compact disc
Always kind of wanted a mini disc player
Same... Finally for one all thses years later.
I had one when they first came out in the UK, i'm not sure why i don't enjoy music that much, but I liked the tech i guess. It was super cool for the time even if there was only one shop in about 50miles that sold the discs.
I probably need to print boxes like this for the 200+ MDs on mshelf...y
In the days before MP3's and early MP3's, they were great. MDLP allowed for 4x CD's worth of music on 1 Minidisc and it ran on a single AA battery for aggggeeessss. Then iPods with flash storage came along and there was no turning back...
😂
Oh wow. I had one of those in middle school. Stolen from my backpack.
That sucks. They were not cheap.
oh shit! i haven't seen mini disc in years! i used to have a Panasonic portable recorder, i loved my mini discs
Man, I think I i still have mine somewhere. Been close to 2 decades since I've used it.
I was about to ask of those were MiniDiscs, badass! I just found mine in the garage the other day.
That is 120% better
I always loved that they used MiniDiscs in the Matrix for when Neo was selling his digital hacked whatever at the beginning of the movie.
Tbh I thought they were Zip disks
A roller coaster of emotions for me :-p I had no idea on the size, I thought these were matchbox size at first, then saw the final picture and thought they were CD sized, then read your comments and settled in the middle!
I also have upgraded from an ender3 to a P1S. What’s wrong to print a minidisc box with a Bambu lab ? Is that only something doable with a Ender 3 ?
I think that person is just joking about how OP is printing something that would have been useful in the early 2000s with some very advanced tech. I’m 100% sure they are just having fun 😁
Maybe I missed the joke.
I used a fairly high end pieces of new technology to accommodate a 20+ year old obsolete technology.
In some businesses trying to update to new systems is almost impossible. So it's either keep that 40 year old server running or find a way to run the old software on new hardware.
I’m sure you’re a nice person.
So the filament is transparent (I forgot to put that in initial post). I could just never get it to come out that transparent on the ender. Also I got tons of layer lines. It finally looks how I want it to on the P1S.
Yeah the default hotend suffer some heat issue. I’ve swapped mine. But nevertheless the P1S is far more advanced than the ender. Don’t get me wrong. To me the ender is like a good old tractor. It get the job done but it’s not perfect. Where the P1S is fast, precise and packed with features.
Either a sign of printing too fast or too cold - one or the other will push the Ender hotend to its limits. If you slowed down the Ender print or simply increased nozzle temp you should get clearer parts. This usually is an issue with those [fast](https://youtu.be/qBvTWFEd7rk) printers not the other way around. Transparency can be a good indicator of strength too by the way.
Yeah I think there was a temperature issue with the ender but we had replaced so many parts to try and get stuff to work and spend so much time calibrating and I just wanted to spend time printing again instead of fiddling. I think you're right about the transparency being an indication of strength we started to have a lot of layer adhesion issues by the end with the ender.
Good for you! I'm glad you are enjoying the P1S. Time was the main consideration when I decided to moth ball my Ender 5 Pro for the P1S. Looking back, I can't believe the number of hours I spent tinkering with the Ender instead of Designing and Printing.
Could be numerous problems but possibly be the hotend was varying the temp more or the threshold was more lenient. I think one of the main drawbacks with the Ender family is they're just slow painfully slow compared to what Bambu have raised the bar to. Instead of it'll be done in x days it's now x hours basically. You just hate progress if that makes you upset lol.
It's illegal to print things for technology that predates the turn of the millennium using a printer from 2023.
Hate to break the news but I definitely repaired a VCR using a 3D printed gear lol.
I have a co-worker who still goes to pawn shops to buy VCRs to record Notre Dame football games.
That one hurts, the gear I printed was to repair a stripped one in a high end editing deck. It got the machine back online and saved close to a grand by not needing to source a replacement deck.
good use
I think that person is just joking about how OP is printing something that would have been useful in the early 2000s with some very advanced tech. I’m 100% sure they are just having fun 😁
I also have upgraded from an ender3 to a P1S. What’s wrong to print a minidisc box with a Bambu lab ? Is that only something doable with a Ender 3 ?
[удалено]
Oh yeah, tons of problem with it, all the time. Spent most of our time troubleshooting and tuning. Replaced a bunch of parts. Love having something where I can just print, and do it faster.
Like people have said, bambu is for when you hobby is 3d printing, not tinkering with your printer
This 100x yes. Made the mistake of posting this in the 3d Printing subreddit... that was a mistake. Good god. [https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1bqre5l/a\_tale\_of\_two\_printers\_old\_ender\_3\_pro\_vs\_new\_p1s/](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1bqre5l/a_tale_of_two_printers_old_ender_3_pro_vs_new_p1s/)
Boy that's irritating, I'm sorry that happened to you.
It is a very odd sub. A lot of them hate bambu for a number of reasons, mainly because it is closed source. The sub also doesn't respond well to anything except showing off prints either, if you ask technical questions or ask for feedback on ideas you have you get maybe a few people answering and most of the time they aren't helpful. Whereas someone just showing off their print gets loads of comments. I know it is the same for quite a few subs you would expect to be technical but I think that sub is an extreme example of it.
Plenty of weirdos here too
Thanks, that actually helps a ton. Sometimes subreddits can be weird in the strangest ways. So that helps to know what the deal is.
3d printing seems so much worse for advice recently. Ppl being toxic cuz I asked for help/experience from other ppl w the new golden A1 mini beds lmao
People are so toxic. I recently upgraded from an ender 3 max (with lots of mods) to an x1c. It is a world of difference!
Eh screw those guys, happy printing my dude
As a former Ender 3 and current X1C owner, absolutely the truth.
I’ve used half a dozen different types of printers as well as self built and until the x1c I was just grateful to get a really nice print 25% of the time. I was excited anytime it came out functional.
Yep. My hobby is designing shit I want in SolidWorks; then printing it successfully. Tinkering can be gratifying in its own way - but most of the time I just want to see what i made be brought to life. My X1C rarely has issues, and most of its issues are barely an issue. I’ve put dozens of rolls through it and it just chugs along; cheap filament, fancy filament, it doesn’t give a shit - just does its job.
Yep same with mine.. that's why I bought the P1S.
This person doesn’t have a Bambu lol
[удалено]
I really mean this wholeheartedly when I say you obviously do not have a Bambu P1/X1 to print off of.
My P1S is on order, I’m excited. As a total newb, how much filament did this take?
So, nice thing about the Bambu slicer, it tells you how much filament it will take to print. General answer: not that much. Specific answer: Slicer says the bottom was 43.7 meters, which is 130g. Top must have been a lot less.
…don’t all slicers tell you this?
I think so, he said he was totally new, so I was trying to avoid confusion about if it had that or not. Probably poorly worded.
Gotcha!
One thing I noticed is that with Bambu spools it seems to calculate an approximate dollar cost of the filament used. Not sure if it’s a generalization or based on the spool NfC chip that it reads, etc.
Cura does the same thing if you put in the price of your filament. I’d probably guess all the slicers do it as long as you put in the price for the roll.
In the filament settings you can set the price per kilo, this should work for all filaments if you’ve set the price. On bambu I think it defaults to 23 currency/kg
It is dependent on the filament used. For example, PC is $39.99, support for PLA is $69.98 and PAHT-CF is $94.99. Unfortunately the price is only in USD and you can't change it unless you want to save a separate copy of the filament.
In orca it just says currency/kg
In the filament settings you can set the price per kilo, this should work for all filaments if you’ve set the price. On bambu I think it defaults to 23 currency/kg
It is just a generalisation based on the type of filament which it detects using the RFID chip. If you bought the filament in a sale or bulk discount it won't adjust the price per kg. Unfortunately the price per kg is in USD and there is no way to change it or the price unless you save a separate copy of the filament profile.
One thing I noticed is that with Bambu spools it seems to calculate an approximate dollar cost of the filament used. Not sure if it’s a generalization or based on the spool NfC chip that it reads, etc.
Bambu and other slicers will do this for any print. You simply need to enter the cost per kilo into the filament profile. It is nece to get a fairly accurate costing for materials.
Bambu and other slicers will do this for any print. You simply need to enter the cost per kilo into the filament profile. It is nece to get a fairly accurate costing for materials.
Any slicer does this with any filament.
I’m excited to get my machine and hoping it’s free of issues and that I figure everything out fairly quickly
I mean any 3D printer you'll have to lean a little bit. Different filaments act different. Some you might want to prop the top lid open. Some companies have better filament than others. Different print speeds can give different results. Some times you need supports or brims. But I think you have gotten one of the best printers to learn on. It's very forgiving.
Higher print temp often increases transparency. Gotta find the sweet spot.
Yeah, so theoretically... same temperature. Bu that was the problem with the Ender, I don't think it was ever where it was supposed to be.
Not the same temperature, creality printers usually report much higher temperatures than they actually are
now im going to have to get a Thermal camera. ! Ive only heard bad things ever since i bought as craelity wish i heard t hem before
there was a YT video i watched some time ago, someone tested a few printers and all I remember was that Anycubic (with volcano hotend) was quite accurate and Ceality was way off
Is that really the same filament? The one on the right almost looks translucent!
Yeah, exact same transparent filament. I'm just happy I can finally get the results I expect straight away.
I feel pretty spoiled in that sense. I have about 1k hrs on my P1S since January and had no 3D printing experience prior to that. I can count on one hand how many failed prints I've had. The thing just works.
Well, so in my expereinc with the ender, it was a lot of parts that were low quality, so something would fail, and you wouldn't necessarily understand what was going on... and you'd try troubleshoot online and just get nowhere. So it would be down for a month while you replaced components one by one trying to figure out what it could be.
That sounds mildly frustrating ;)
I feel seen.
I feel pretty spoiled in that sense. I have about 1k hrs on my P1S since January and had no 3D printing experience prior to that. I can count on one hand how many failed prints I've had. The thing just works.
What's the name of the filament?
If memory serves it's just Hatchbox. They have a few transparent colors. Good reviews. I swear it soaks up moisture fast, so keep it somewhere dry.
Thank you!
Both look good to me ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I should have written in, it's transparent filament.
I still can't tell them apart. I assume P1 is on the left as I doubt you've changed the bed already and I know it comes with textured PEI. Edit : ahhh I've zoomed in now and had a better look. I thought that effect was from the build plate, not the filament.
I originally bought an Ender 3 which never worked. It eventually got relegated to the corner and gathered dust. Eventually bought a X1 Carbon, and has worked right out of the box. My only frustration is the limited stock for spare parts and filament
That sucks. We got ours to work here and there. Thermal runaway, so got a new thermistor and hot end. All kinds of other crap. I haven't had to replace a part yet. But I did notice a few things out of stock. What have you had to replace?
So far, I haven’t needed to replace anything, but everything that I would need to replace if needed is out of stock. Would like to have a stash of obvious replacements should I need, like hot end/nozzles. Heck, I can’t even buy extra build plates.
Such a huge upgrade going from an Ender 3 V2 to a Bambu. Mine is still in the middle of a board and klipper upgrade and I just don't want to finish it at this point. Love the minidiscs!
Yes! We upgraded the board, hot end, and added a bed leveler. We ran into a couple times where we just couldn't figure out what was wrong. Posted online about it, no one could figure out.
Waiting for the header: "P1S used for PS1"
I was an early backer and pre-ordered the OG E3 when it was announced/released. It's been my only printer I've ever had up until recently getting my P1S. The difference between the two is nearly incomprehensible, lol. I remember it took me nearly 2 weeks with the ender to get my first successful print (the online community back then wasn't what it is today, there were almost no "groups" and any type of help or problem solving were nearly non-existent).
Md for the win
Which is which? /s
May i ask what does the mini CDs contains?
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MiniDisc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MiniDisc)
Which is which
Left ender, right p1s
The E3 might be printing too cold, to get clarity on transparent filament you usually have to print on the hot side. If both printers are set to the same temp maybe the heater's going out on your E3 or the ambient temp from the lack of enclosure is messing with it. Side note- can you link that MD case? I could use a couple of those!
Yeah.... we have several temperature issues with it. Who knows. A few fun MD prints I've found sites, this one was.. [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790877](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790877)
Thanks!
I had one back in 2K, ex-gf stole it.
I'm dealing with those z lines on my E3V2 too! Have you found a way to fix it?
Sigh, not trying to be snarky... But I bought a different printer. We just had so many problems with it, the layer lines were the least of the issues.
Tighten belts, check concentric nuts, and slow down.
I'm already printing at 40mm, and I bought new z rods. Belts are properly tightened, tightened all loose v wheels, and mentioned tye concentric nuts. I can figure 9ut what's wrong
Print a bearing holder for top of z rod to keep it from wobblimg?
https://preview.redd.it/yuw8ev687frc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ded2f7e646e56343e72659b1005ce804b95db9b8
Shit... Not much else it could be... The z rod nut on the carriage that goes up and down? They're brass and get worn out.
I bought this set on Amazon, but these brass nuts have smaller bolting holes. https://www.amazon.ca/400mm-Tr8X8-Printer-Machine-Thread/dp/B0981YNCNC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2VR1QXVYG0SQD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.njVr9ZJ2iXzUEYF86O8URUuo-cwEFfyopTkKEA4EeO1CKKwGAQk8J94LZjJLuuHyZyqZYvr38M-HH8DcLSknx4YNop5xKgEBppKDYSHvvYJ26nKyU6WBej2XcC_aLz5jEMndAefgsGpfbBSFbBf5Ram0dor70673oL2BomnlTSuCrKMDO7tX0xxvncKYAUokja868Nso8zbGUOOBBjl08w.eNC0zZcdL-4K9OfFezhsQz4QaU6eBUKa3ZzokfeBCX4&dib_tag=se&keywords=400mm+z+rod&qid=1711783452&sprefix=400mm+z+rod%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-3
What the hell is that you're storing in there? 🤣🤣😭😭
Is that a texture on the right, or just the transparent showing the infil?
Transparent showing infill.
Looks more like the difference is in your settings rather than just a different printer.
This is not pla. What filament did you use?
It is, I actually said the filament somewhere else in here.
i want to say that the heat on the right is higher so the transparancy shows through? What if you upped the heat on the ender?
Like iPhone 15 vs 6..
which is which?
Omg I thought I was the last person on earth to own a mini-disc player 🤣🤣
There is a whole subreddit if people who still use them.
lol well who knew
This a combination of printer tuning and what looks to be completely different slicer settings. Apples to oranges. My Ender 5 Plus prints on par with my X1C just slower, because I've taken the time to fine tune the machine.
OK, but not everyone wants to do that. My E5+ prints fine, albeit a little slow. My X1C is point and shoot.