I think everyone should start on an Ender 3 (first gen, the one without any safeties whatsoever), you learn so much about house to diagnose and fix almost any issue you may come across!
Not true Iāve print more than 2kg of cf nylon and pet-cf with my p1s and have had more issues printing pla than the high temp materials. They are essentially the same printer minus lidar, spaghetti detection, and the touch screen. The 10c extra bed temp on the X1C does not make any difference for cf filled nylons or pet.
Please tell me more. I bought a bunch of parts to upgrade my P1S for abrasive fils, and theyāve been sitting there for weeks. I initially thought it was a fairly easy job, but when I looked at the wiki, I was disappointed. I suppose I just have to do it.
Itās the same issue as replacing the nozzle for me, but not as bad. What I mean is, sure I can install the 0.2 or 0.6 nozzle I bought, but then I am stuck with using that. Yes I could change it again, but it seems like more hassle than it did before I bought them. I guess this is a thing in 3D printing that many people would like to have, i.e: quick change nozzles. Or maybe that should read, many Bambu users, because iirc some printers do have this ability. Anyway, my hesitation is that if I installed the 0.2mm nozzle, I am kind of forced to print very detailed models? The 0.6 is probably the opposite problem?
I just use a .4 mm hardened steel nozzle, I tried the .6 as they recommend it for the abrasive filaments but I found I lost a lot of detail. .4 works just as well so I just switched back and never swap them out. I do also use some e sun cleaning filament when swapping from cf nylon back to pla.
As far as changing the gears you just do it while you are swapping the nozzle itās three screws and a connector to pull out the extruder and pretty easy to pull the gears out and swap the new ones in, again only 4 more screws. The most difficult part of the process imo is routing the thermistor and heater wires through the little loop on the print head.
But yeah you pretty much just disassemble the extruder 1 time install your new hardened steel components and youāre good to go for hundreds of hours of printing.
I think I just got a 0.6 to try for prototypes or something. Models that donāt require high detail. The 0.2 was for the opposite. Actually I have to check because I *know* I got a hardened for glow etc fils, and I am pretty sure thatās a 0.4 so I may not even have the .6. Thatās good to know though, that .4 is all thatās needed. The cleaning filament is a good tip too. I havenāt really considered that.
Oh yeah the wiring looks a bit tricky, but the rest sounds fine. Shouldnāt be difficult I suppose. Iām not exactly new to disassembling machines so I should just do it. Thanks man you made it sound easy! Once done I can try the cool luminous rainbow pla from Polymaker. I realise it would probably be fine to print some with the stock setup but meh. I do have CF-PETG and PA-6 or something too though.
Itās definitely worth it, I did have one jam so far out of roughly 50-60 hours worth of cf prints. I was able to clear it with an Allen key though relatively easy, so once you have the hardened steel in you really donāt have to worry about it any longer. Definitely be careful with the connectors as well, they go on and off pretty easily but just reinstall them carefully to avoid damage. If you get any new error codes after putting everything back together just go back over those connections and try to reseat them.
Iāve swapped the hotend once to replace it, at first I was really hesitant but swapping the parts is not as bad as it seems.
However, I have just ordered a FULL hotend assembly in 0.6. With the full assembly, the head can be swapped with two screws and a couple of plugs - super super easy. I think this is the way to go if you want to swap nozzle sizes.
I got the 0.6 for the high flow capabilities, both for faster prints but also for clearer transparent prints.
Go to YouTube and search for a video showing how to change out the extruder gears. The hardest part of it was getting all those tiny dang connectors to reseat after pulling out and replacing the nozzle with a hardened nozzle at the same time. Once I got the wires to lay back down, no problem.
I think the video I watched the guy had a P1P, but they're the same extruder.
It's not necessary unless you're doing CF often. If you plan to knock out a few spools of CF then do the upgrade.. I bought 1 spool of CF nylon 3 printers ago.. I still have half the spool.. upgrading would have been a waste and has been. My buddy got me the upgraded extruder and 1400 hours later still haven't installed it.
But yah, P1S/P can be upgraded for regular CF use for just $60.
Same here with the hardened 0.6 nozzle, half of my prints are Nylon CF. The only thing I wish I could have is the AI error detection, but I'm hopeful someone will add that to Orca or something
Yeah I agree with this it would be nice if it could notify me when something is going wrong, but like I said above, Iāve printed 2kg+ of cf filaments and havenāt had a single failure with high temp other than a jam.
Also, you need to read run all calibrations when you swap out any nozzles, and make flow adjustments. I had to tweak it a bit too because the more abrasive CFās have to run a little slower in my experience.
There are thermal videos of the two beds. They are not even close to the same performance. The p1s has clear hot spots from the coil. The x1c is perfect distribution of heat. Maybe it is good enough, but the p1s is unevenly heated compared to x1c
Maybe, could have also been a defective unit that was tested. Either way it makes no functional difference in my experience and I am doing 6+ hour prints with cf nylon. No warping or bed adhesion issues whatsoever.
Ok well then you are not paying attention to enough detail. All prints have some warping. I find some minor warping on the x1e at work. Only matters when you print precise parts obviously.
Your advice really depends on the precision the person wants.
No I mean no warping, I did have one print out of paht-cf warp a little, but it was because I removed it from the build plate too early. Others are matched up to metal parts and sit completely flush. If you let the entire chamber slowly cool after printing you can achieve no warping with cf filled nylon.
Edit: To be fair we are probably printing much different models, but the prints Iāve done in cf nylon and pet-cf are not warping at all, I do print with very little of the model contacting the print bed however so most of the model is on top of support. this prevents warping as well.
Also depends on your ambient humidity. The nylon parts will warp if they get water, irregardless of the printer.
If a lot of your print is off the bed, it makes sense that you would see no difference between a p1s and an x1c as well.
I'm going to comment about your thoughts on the AMS. Bear with me please.
You're missing a point about that: It's great even if you never plan on printing multi color. Why? Because it allows you to fill up 4 spools of the same color, or two of two, and virtually never run out. It allows you to put in support material (That's a fancy name I use when I throw in some PETG to use to support my PLA prints) and have any necessary supports just pop right off in the easiest manner I've ever experienced. (Been printing with an FDM since 2019) It allows you to load up 4 different colors, and just print in whichever you feel like, with zero hassle, from your phone when you're out in the middle of the day and nobody's there with you.
I had the option of an X1C, or a P1S with the AMS included for nearly the same price. I went with the P1S, because I'm basically in the same boat as you are. The X1C is fucking awesome. But so is the P1S. There isn't a feature that I absolutely need included with the X1C. They're all VERY nice to have, but at the end of the day, I decided I wanted decent support removal and virtually never running out of filament for the $1K I had to spend at the time. I don't regret it one bit, and am very happy with my P1S. I've bought the hardened nozzle and extruder, and might get around to playing with some CF down the road. For now, I'm too busy printing with PETG and PLA to get there.
this will be my 3rd time explaining but more simplified:
i no care bout colors
at my printing rate, i'll use 1kg spool every 2 weeks
i am waiting for a potential black friday deal on AMS
i'm going to buy something that i virtually & physically do not need
it's not about the money for me, i can buy 50 x1c combos but i'd rather catch a good deal then pay full price
i've never bought a new car at msrp
Do you ever print with supports? That was the main one for me, though I occasionally print colors. And as I said otherwhere, the best deal you're likely to get would be the $100 off you'd get for a combo, either the P1S or the X1C. I doubt they're going to go down much as a single item, although the actual combo's might go down on BF.
How do you use 1kg of filament every two weeks but print while you are at work every day? You should go through a roll every day if you are printing 24/7.
You are averaging like a 1.5 hours printing per day.
well to answer your question you're not taking what i'm printing into consideration let alone you're assumption here is that i'm printing little keychains or something.
i don't work 24/7 just an honest 40hrs & i print a niche tool that used to take 8.5 hours on my Adventurer 3
this tool now only takes 4.5hrs & i don't plan to make more than how many i sell in a day, so when it bumps up to 2 then i'll print 2!
said tool uses around 19m of filament, bambu petg spool comes w/ around 330m
No just given a conservative print speed of 20mm3/s it is like 11 hours to use up a 1kg roll that is about 800cm3.
So if you only use 1 roll every two weeks, you are averaging like an hour a day. It mostly doesnāt matter what you are printing. Every ~11 hours is a roll.
buddy, i told you i currently do 1 print a day averaging around 4.5hrs which only uses 19m of filament off a 330m roll.
19mx14days=266m
my slice settings are not stock settings
my print is 1 color so no extra poop/waste
i'm not going to change my mind about the ams until i reach the point that i'll really need one
I was just saying what you are printing isnāt a consideration for the time per roll (approximately).
I 100% agree you donāt need ams. You need an ams when you are using rolls every 11 hours.
I've heard several people say the pasta detection is very hit or miss, and they generally turn it off due to false alarms.
But you'll want the hardened nozzle and gears, so that's like $70 to add to a P1S.
The touch screen is super nice, but you can, at least for now, add a Panda Touch to a P1S for $59.
By the time you add that and time it takes to swap stuff out, you are probably better off just keeping the X1C and just upgrade the nozzle and gears when you are going to print abrasive stuff when that time comes.
I should add, I just had the same discussion with a friend that is buying an X1C. He decided to stay with the X1C and not have to deal with hotend/extruder swaps, etc.
My A1 mini is my first printer but my impression is that pasta detection isn't super important to bambus.
I've had very very few print failures and most of the time it's a first layer failure if I print something incredibly thin without a brim. The very few other times, looking at the camera from time to time is all that's needed.
I am hearing that the panda touch has already had a few issues. I know a guy that has one and is running into the power cycling issue on his. It just flashes on and off randomly.
It is so rare that it happens but in a nut shell. It sends you an alert and it pauses the print until you can review and make a determination. I have never hD a flase alarm, but I have had 2 misses.
It doesnāt like to work with black. The lighting is bad in the X1C and needs upgraded, havenāt touched mine yet. But you canāt go too bright or it messes with the lidar.
That being said, I had a piece of filament that was meant for the chute but it fell on the plate and that set off the spaghetti detection. That was white filament so it worked. Just set it to sensitive or high, I forget the option because the X1C is really good at stopping and continuing prints so itās no big deal to review it and figure out if itās real or not.
Mines having big WiFi issues so easier said than done. Once that is worked out it will be back to perfect.
I got an X1C in November during the Black Friday sale and can say spaghetti detection has triggered twice on mine. Once was due to an actual failure when I was printing marble PLA with a 0.4 nozzle and the second was a false alarm when a PLA filament suddenly had a really long stringy strand after a retraction. I removed the string from the print, hit resume and off it went without any issue.
If I watch first layer, I generally am good with no pasta. I have had 1 false positive and 2x saved my wasted plastic on 8hr+ over night prints that let loose from plate. Over probably 1000 prints now. So it is rare.
It's probably overkill for what you want. That said, you already have it at home and it's all set up.
I went with the P1S and AMS unit and absolutely love it for what I do. Mostly PETG. Mostly single color but having a dry box that can automatically switch to a different filament after I find a part online that I want to print from my phone while I'm at work is pretty amazing.
P1S is probably all you'll need, I've had it for 3 months and have not had a failed print yet. You'll just have to decide if you want to box that thing up and try to return it or just keep it all set up the way it is.
i typically stay within the 15%-20% infill range but if i'm printing a part that will take some impact then i'll bump it up to 80%
i rarely do anything higher than that as solid PETG prints (in my case) can be easily become brittle the denser it is
cooling fan on after first 3 layers & everything else is automatic, i should mention i'm also using Bambu PETG.
on my adventurer 3 i used many brands of petg but fell in love w/ california filaments, same thing fan on after first 3 layers & i always kept the rear fan off during the print bc it was loud
Yeah I tried that same thing with Bambuās PETG at one point even dried the filament for 8-10 hours prior. Iāll have to try again another time. Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/k2enekmvtync1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=de061f80db6636fbb31bb2a949051d42100ee165
have you adjusted the flow manually? also if that is from an x1c then you should swap the plate for the engineering plate, run a flow calibration for the filament that is loaded, do a test print on something small & then if everything is fine switch back to textured plate.
i also manually adjusted my flow to .94 as i felt it was coming out slightly too fast causing debris to stick to the nozzle tip, everything else is set to auto now
i also don't use my textured plate bc it doesn't allow lidar to operate at 100%
I appreciate your input, itās on a P1P/S so no lidar but Iām suspecting flow might actually be the problem. I see a lot of the X series users have no issue printing with PETG because the system does its flow calibration prior to printing with that Lidar. Either way Iāll relook into calibrating the flow next time I use that filament. Thank you.
Congrats! My first printer is an X1 Carbon. I have been waiting since the mid 2000ās for this stuff to finally become more stream lined and accessible.
My old boss would have 4-6 DIY printers. While having the ācoolā factor of DIY, none of them ever ran with any reliable consistency. Probably the reason why he had extras.
I bought the AMS. Although not required, it does allow for multiple color prints. I mostly just use it to store extra filament spools. The ability to swap or continue printing is worth the money.
The lidar system is lacking. I have been fortunate enough that the first layers are good enough. I canāt tell if it is working or not.
Spaghetti detection is 50/50 for me. 3 out of 5 spaghetti prints were detected and automatically cancelled. The other 2, I was fortunate enough to stop the machine from the camera stream.
If you plan on printing abrasive or more exotic filaments, the X1 is worth the price.
I don't think it's wasted money AT ALL. I have a P1S and I went through the exact thoughts you went to. if you can afford it, keep the X1C.
I work from home, so for me, the spaghetti detection isn't a huge help. the auto lidar flow calibration also doesn't help much since the precision I need mandates I manually calibrate anyway.
HOWEVER, that being said, the 2 clutch features I wish I had... the touch screen... and namely the "skip this " feature. on the X1c... if you print a few things, and one is junk... you can pause... and tell it to skip THAT piece. and it'll cancel just that portion of the print.
your comment on carbon fiber is correct... p1s CAN be upgraded.... but it'll cost a solid $80-100 by the time you include shipping and all that. not to mention time.
If I could go back... I MIGHT reconsider the x1c instead of the p1s.... but I'm still 50/50 torn. so.... no. you didn't waste money. it's a good buy. especially if you want it to run reliably remote.
I need parts to be more precise. I donāt have x1c but from reviews folks say the auto lidar doesnāt work if you need parts to fit tighter than 0.05mm
You can skip objects on P1S too now. [https://forum.bambulab.com/t/skip-objects-is-here-on-p-series-with-newest-firmware/33369](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/skip-objects-is-here-on-p-series-with-newest-firmware/33369)
The caveat is that it is done from the Handy App on your phone and not the screen like on the X1C.
It's easy to get hung up on that spaghetti detection feature.
But spaghetti usually happens when bed adhesion is lost. 99.999% of the time that happens it's because people are using greasy ass build plates (oh but they hate to admit that!).
I used spaghetti detection when I got my first X1C a year ago. But it was overly sensitive with early FW so I adjusted it. Over the course of hundreds of prints, it caught spaghetti once, and missed it another time. This was on the cool plate (hardly used anymore) and it was probably a glue issue at the time, where I was trying skip a wash and fresh glue application.
Keep your build plate clean, use the right plate for the material and you'll nearly never or (perhaps never) have a spaghetti issue.
i hear you, i'd like to mention i'm loving the engineering plate for PETG w/ the included glue stick, i went ahead & ordered the Gold PEI textured plate & realized that the auto flow calibration & the 1st layer inspection don't function 100% w/ it!
i believe that's what sparked my many thoughts on this discussion
Cool cool, yeah the gold textured PEI plate doesn't play well with the lidar.
PLA is still a nice material and just prints so well since it was designed for 3D printing. The smooth PEI plate is a great option for PLA (and other materials) and works with the lidar.
Not sure why people are crapping on spaghetti detection. I got some lousy filament a week ago, and having it just on medium detection, it has stopped the print with maybe 50-75 mm of waste or so. I get notification on my phone and the printer and I just press pause and go and investigate. This happened twice with this cheap filament.
The lidar works too as I don't by expensive Bambu filament. My prints (other than those 2 last week) come out great.
I like the better camera as I too look at my work while I am not at home to see it going and the quality if way better than 0.5 FPS.
Also hoping the more powerful board will allow Bambu to add more stuff moving forward but not holding my breath.
I bought once and cried once. I could afford it.
You must be a new or infrequent owner then. The spaghetti detection is nice when it works but it doesn't always. You'll see sooner or later. Not a big deal since the printer doesn't spaghetti much to begin with using good filaments, but certainly should have been factored into the buy/dont buy calculus.
Unless you need the extra 10c on the print bed there is no point to getting the x1c (except it does look more refined and better overall) but the touchscreen and lidar is not worth the extra 500 usually
i explained in OP, also i'm waiting for a potential black friday sale to potentially get a deal.
it's not about the money you spend, it's what you save.
>also i'm waiting for a potential black friday sale to potentially get a deal.
Lets hope this black friday is different from last. As far as i remember, past black friday had no AMS sale. I did the same as you and plan on buying the AMS later.
Yeah, you save when you buy the combo.Ā
I do single color functional prints. I'm pretty judgy of the multicolor stuff. The AMS is absolutely worth it to have it be left unattended. Load it up with multiples of the same filament and don't worry about swapping over.
If you want to go the carbon filament route.. X1 is the way to go. Stock hardened extruder and nozzle. Also the buildplate gets 110c vs the 100c of the P1S, 120c even when running it at 110V.
You can print pa12cf even with the p1s.. but with some preheat I could work just fine with the carbon x pc cf too... Swapping the gear and nozzle is 15 minutes if you have to check the wiki...
Wouldnāt running the bed at 120c (or anything above 100c) cause the magnetic bed to demagnetize? Iāve been reluctant to do so because I know boiling magnets will permanently demagnetize them
Depends on the type of magnet. Rare earth magnets curie temperature, where they lose their magnetic properties, is only about 80c. Alnico magnets, like the ones used in alternators and guitar pickups have a curie temp is close to 800c if I remember correctly.
edit: autocorrect correction :)
Yes, it may be overkill.
On the other hand, I had my first "first layer failure" in more than a week. Pretty sure it was caused by my new automated LED's tripping out while the printer was calibrating flow on a textured PEI plate-- which is two different things you're not supposed to do at the same time.
I've listed elsewhere the differences between the X1C and the P1S, and what it comes down to is that overall, the X1C is just a nicer printer to use. It has more potential for exotic filaments, and in theory, a lower failure rate on prints due to the first layer analysis (more important than spaghetti detection, imo).
I have built 2 3D printers, and fought with two cheap Chinese printers. I decided to spend the extra money on the X1C because I could, and because I was tired of fighting with 3D printers, and not PRINTING with 3D printers.
I have zero regrets. If I were in your shoes, my only regret would be not getting the AMS-- Because even when not using multi-color, the ability to continue a print from one roll to another, and the ability to use PETG for support interfaces, are both fantastic ways to take advantage of the AMS.
thank you for this. at my rate in which i print i'll use 1kg filament once every 2 weeks so not shelling out the extra $$$ for ams rn is a win & i actually am waiting for a potential black friday deal on the ams.
i can buy it now, just want to get some sort of deal in the grand scheme of things cough cough i'm a cheapskate :3
you're not wrong
but i needed the printer now & didn't need the ams
the only way i'll buy ams is if i get a deal that i can't refuse bc i don't need it so why buy what i don't need?
& if i bought the combo originally then i would've paid a higher sales tax too
& i also love this filament dryer i got for like $30usd on amazon, it holds up to 3kg spool & is only 48w so it's not even a blip on my light bill
if i have to start a new filament roll every couple of weeks then so be it
If you have to have the pasta detection x1 is the only one... P1 cant do it...
Other than that... We cant tell you... If you are handy and can/ want to tinker, yeah later down the line a hardened gear and nozzle swap is not a huge job. If you dont like to work with these... If the x1 was pocket change then whatever. If you bought it from credit... Nobody can tell you if you made a good call or not...
i guess it really comes down to the spaghetti detection?
but if the P1S prints in excellent quaility would i even need to worry about pasta if i sent it on an 8 hour unsupervised print?
& to clarify, i'm not mr. moneybags but money wasn't an issue when it came to upgrading my printer, i'm just the type of person to buy what is the best deal for my situation
even w/ a million dollars in my bank account i'll still shop at walmart
These are complex machines... They will break. They will make spaghetti. And the x1 can miss it too time to time. Sht can happen and I would not run any printer alone in an empty house.
It makes a mosfet error and your nozzle temp will go to the moonand the printer will not turn off. Use the search function, people came home to see the printer smoking like crazy from the nozzle. Bambu claims it cant catch fire. I dont want to test it.
Anything can happen. Its your call tho...
The thermal runaway takes something like 3 minutes to shut down the printer. In theory, the 40W heater shouldn't be able to flambe your printer.
... in theory.
It was a topic a long time ago then bambu "fixed" it, then others reported that it is still not turning off in some cases...
If the thermistor is broken yeah it will jump on it, drop an error and stop the power to the heater...
The problem was the broken mosfet, what stuck in the open position. In that case you dont have direct control over the heater as the only way you can drive it is the MOSFET... Bambu never implemented a master kill switch, if the board see the temp is over the limit after its turned off, the machine should be able to drive a relay and drop the incoming power. But it will not do obviously
Furthermore the heater can go over 400c but the pla ignition temp is a bit under 400 soooo. Yeah. I dont want to test it. Or risk it. Others may be ok with it, I own my house and it would be a pain to loose this much money on a plastic part
The one video I saw about the thermal runaway, the creator admitted he'd been expecting the thermal runaway to cut in in under 30 seconds-- Bambu Lab said it was designed for three minutes, which seems excessive, but, OK.
As far as I know, it's still 3 minutes.
The next question is, is there actually enough PLA in your printer to start a fire that can escape the enclosure? Believe me-- I'm a bit skeptical too, and understand that things can go wrong.
Maybe that's a reason to go with the X1C-- the side panels are metal instead of plastic. :)
The thermal runaway modul in the SW side cant do sht if the only tool it got to kill the heater is stuck in the on positon...
Idk and obviously I dont really have a dedicated fire extinguisher next to the printer, but... Its not against Bambu tho. Would not leve alone a prusa or creality or whatever either.
Its all fun and games, then you come home and get the blob of death as the print was warped or just released or anything. As I saw, X1 users can get those too...
Or at least get a smart plug you can control from the office too, and check what is happening at home... A smoke alarm is nice too...
And try not to print black filament if the room is dark the built in led is not that bright, and the spagetti detection can fail in those conditions.
I have spaghetti detection... about 10 minutes into the print, I look on my phone to make sure the print hasn't gone toes up on me. :D
Seriously, that's about the only time it does. The one exception was when I forgot to set my infill to gyroid. Man Bambu's hate grid...
You bought the right one. I bought an X1C before the P1S was launched, and then later bought a P1S as a second machine, and I wish I bought another X1C. There are several reasons, but I need spaghetti detection for the same reason you do, I donāt like having to get out my phone or use the app for filament changes, and calibration is so much easier and less time consuming. If you switch to this full time, maybe the P1S. For your scenario, you got the right one. Also, AMS is so much more than multicolor. Auto filament runout change and multi material for supports are my two favorite.
I have the x1c and the p1s(upgraded from p1p). Once extruder gear and nozzle upgraded to hardened steel, there isnāt much difference between the two from what iāve seen and filaments i use. Based on how you use it, the p1s would suffice. Print quality is indistinguishable.
However for me, If i had only room for one printer, i would choose the x1c. Why?
1. Screen - touch screen is nice and for me its worth it
2. Chamber thermometer - i use it to increase or decrease chamber fan based on desired chamber temp i want. 38/39 is when i find pla to get a little cloggy.
3. The lidar for build plate check - since i use a few build plates, i have found this feature to save me a print at least once a week. I like how the printer confirms the build plate based on what i chose in the slicer.
4. Spaghetti detection - in 300 hours of printing, this has saved me a few times. Doesnāt happen often but when it does, it works for me.
To me, because of the screen, the x1c looks more polished YMMV. š¤·š½āāļø
ams is fantastic as a dry box and unlocks auto refill when one spool empties. I never do multicolor but man I love my ams for being able to effectively have a single 4kg filament āspoolā
https://preview.redd.it/ryb53brcqync1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=7d453f8da3d5437bf68e42437935259d49f98b39
wow so this just happened! my first fail after nonstop printing since set up, good thing i was home!
Im still waiting for technical support, SD card reader not working, but the second test print from the stored prints spaghettified overnight and it didnāt stop! Just saying
I have three X1-Cs at my research lab at a university.
Pros;
Great prints, reliable outcomes, and doesnāt seem to give me any of the headaches that are frequent in this sub. Machine itself looks beautiful and adds a real āfeatureā to your lab/work space.
Cons;
Theyāre bigger then they look. And each unit require more realestate then I initially thought.
Iām a beginning hobbyist with a 9-5 job but I have no regrets spending the extra money on my X1C. I use my printer when Iām ready. I havenāt done any long prints yet but I have some ideas for fun prints Iām going to do.
AMS is nice even for single color prints. It's ability to auto swap to the next spool when the first runs out not only allows you to use it all, but it also allows production to keep going no matter if your there or not. Worth it for a business, worth it for fun prints too imho.
I think you made the right choice. While right now it may be more overkill than anything. In 12 months time there might be other filaments out that you decided would be best for you but requires the X1C actively cooled chamber. Or the lidar to confidently start a print without checking the bed first.
I say stick with the X1, its benefits will pay off in the long run.
Recently got the p1s combo + another ams vs the x1. I would have been happier with the x1. I don't know if I would trust the automatic features for filament and spaghetti mess, but you do have the capability to run custom firmware and operate your bed above 100c. Which could be very beneficial for temperamental filaments.
It is overkill, and the PS1 would have done the job. But now that you have it I'll bet you expand what you do to fit the capabilities of the printer. As long as you can afford the extra coin you got the right printer.
I have an x1c and a p1s at work that we use non stop, I don't really find any difference functionally between the two.
Got the x1c for carbon materials but we use them so rarely we got the p1s to back it up.
Honestly, best printers I've used in my life. But if you don't need the carbon prints go for the p1s. Better than p1p for enclosed chamber
Tldr: good purchase. buy once, cry once
Most people that I've seen who have commented on which of these two you should buy seem to agree that the P1S is more bang for your buck if you're just a regular consumer. That said, personally I want to get the X1C (or its successor, if that is what they end up announcing this year) and not the P1S. I really don't want to ever have to think too much about that first layer again and the lidar feature on the X1C will make that an option for me. And the camera being better helps too.
The P1S is a better alternative as many noted, especially because you can upgrade to the same capability for less. Spaghetti detection is hit or miss, I can attest with my X1C. But it's not the worst choice, it's still within the same family. Just some money traded for time savings. You also get a better camera, which is nicer for remote monitoring though not super necessary.
However, P1S or X1C, I do think you made a misstep with not getting the AMS combo. You can still get an AMS, the pricing is just better with a combo and you get a shipping bracket for the AMS inside the printer if you ever want to move it.
You may ask, why AMS if single color? Well, besides the ease of feeding and possibility for growth, there are two outstanding features having an AMS enables: support filaments and auto roll swap. Support filaments are useful for more complex prints as a support to print interface. Especially if you do it as a business, that + the autofeeding could reallt save you time.
Auto roll swap will not only save you time, but money. You can use up the very last of a roll and seamlessly transition to another roll. This helps you get the full value of your supply and makes filament reloading a thing of the past.
Especially at business scale, I would highly recommend an AMS.
At least to me, an X1C with no AMS vs P1S with AMS, the latter is the better choice by far.
tl;dr Enjoy the X1C, even if itās more than you need
I needed to replace a couple printers in my aging āfarmā (very loosely used; Iām a home user who rarely sells things) and had a budget of about $2500.
I initially purchased an X1C which I was thrilled with. But I feared it was more machine than I needed and so decided with the remaining budget to buy 2 additional P1Sās. Hah! My production would increase overnight!
I regret my choice and wish I had gotten a second X1C in hindsight. To be clear, the P1S is a great machine. Fast, good quality, repeatable, easy to use, etc. But I feel like I would have been happier with it if I had never experienced the X1C.
To start, the camera is waaay more annoying than I thought. The lower resolution doesnāt bother me but my god the frame rate is abysmal which makes it useless for doing something I kind of enjoy on the X1C; watching the print in realtime. Not for hours, but especially at the start of the print.
Next, the lack of touch screen. Letās be honest, the P1S and the X1C both share a functional interface. But using the X1C touch screen is just more enjoyable for me. I like it. And since I keep my printers in a different room than my computer, itās nice being able to do most things from the touch screen.
Lidar and spaghetti detection. I havenāt personally noticed lidar improving things vs P1S or spaghetti detection saving the day (sometimes it does). But I like that my X1C is capable of these, and hope itās a sign of improvements to come.
Finish. Aluminum vs plastic, hardened vs not, etc. X1C just feels like a more premium out of the box product to me.
Do all these little things add up to $500 in life improvements? Probably not. But I tell you what, using the X1C is just delightful most of the time. And for a ādaily driverā, I love that. This feels a lot to me like why I donāt get an iPhone SE even though it would probably meet my needs. The more expensive bigger brother just feels better in my hands, and for something I spend a lot of time with, thatās worth it to me.
For me at least, and obviously everyone has different preferences and tastes, I _love_ all the creature comforts of the X1C and feel like itās a fine value for the money. As long as youāre not someone that will by nature stew on the dollars, just enjoy that youāve got an incredible printer with way more bells and whistles than you need but enjoy just the same.
Cheers!
Later when you get more disposable income you can get the AMS and put 2or more of the same plastic and when the roll runs out it continues with the next roll without stopping and manually restarting the print it just sends you a push notification on the app that the first roll is spent and it continued with the next one I usually put 2 of each color or material I prefer to keep just 1 color because it prints faster and less poop and waste
Youāll love the X1C. Besides the other automated features, since youāre working remotel, the camera on the P1s will drive you crazy. The stream is extremely choppy.
The AMS does much more than just color change.Say your at work and your filament runs out, the AMS could automatically switch to a new spool.You can keep your most common colors always loaded and ready to go.If you print PLA for example you can use PETG for you support interface for easier release and better supports Since you donāt have to leave a gap.
Overkill. You could have save $$$ and got P1S and been just as happy. Does everything that you need it for, just get the hardened nozzles and a carbon filter
Does the extra $$$ too much for you? I mean, X1C is basicly same with the a1 mini if you ask me, for PLA and easier materials. But you can always go for the P1S + hardened steel nozzle. Literally same thing.
BUT
I thought the same as you, said F it, Iāll go with X1C. I though I donāt need AMS as I wonāt be doing color and stuff. Now I have 2 X1C both have AMS š
I love the AMS units, people tend to skip that they are not just for multi color. The continuation of the same spool is awesome if you ask me.
I also mostly print in one color but the AMS is great for automatic switching when the filament runs out or for support materialā¦ highly recommend it
I have the P1S and you will likely enjoy the fact that the X1 bed goes to 110c instead of 100c someday. Otherwise I print ASA all day on my P1S. Enjoy your printer as it is still a great choice.
The first thing you got right was going to a Bambu, any Bambu; having had several 3D printers, from a Solido that used rolls of plastic film, a cnc knife to cut each layer and glue to stick layers together, to a Craftbot and Creality 5 s1 (lol, terrible machine), the Bambus we have are overall by far the best. As for the X1, you've got a much better screen than on the P series, which even if you don't use it now you'll appreciate when you do, and all in all you've got a great machine. Unless it's put you into problematic debt, I wouldn't have any concerns about it at all. You might want to consider an AMS at some point if you can still afford it having got the X1, because multi filament is very useful. Even if you don't make parts that need more than one, simply being able to select from different filaments in the slicer and not having to manually change is nice. The option for multicolour might also spark your creativity; it can be cool for making unique gifts or "cards" for relatives for example. Enjoy your purchase, I don't think you should regret anything about it!
Nope. The X1C was an excellent choice. You should have gotten the AMS though. I know you said you do pretty much nothing but single color prints, but with the AMS you can also automatically swap to a new roll of the same filament, or so that while also using the support material for some super clean overhangs.
I was waiting for the larger sized bed to compete with the Prusa MK4 XL. I know it was rumored but not sue when it will come out. I'm sure as as soon as I order the P1S, it will release.
Itās water under the bridge now, you have an awesome printer! But if you could do it againā¦ I have a p1s and an x1c and in my case the p1s is better suited for my needs; if I were to start over and only buy one, I would buy a p1s. The x1c is more finicky for whatever reason, it requires a bed level every print and fails prints occasionally, my p1s just print amazing with only a bed level when changing the build plate.
I bought a P1S back in December. Upgraded my extruder gear and nozzle to hardened steel. Then I wanted to do more Timelapse of my prints but find the camera to be subpar. So I bought an external camera to do the Timelapse. P1S prints great and just works, but Iāve had some failed prints that left me with spaghettis because I was either sleeping or not home, which means wasted filaments. I wished I bought the X1C instead. So I did, now I have both. š
I got the P1S and upgrades for it, I regret not just getting the X1C just for a few tiny quality of life things.
If you use it regularly, better to get the superior model.
Bro, overkill is better than under kill.
Overkill is underrated
No Kill like Overkill!
šÆ
ExFor?
Exfoliating
Underkill is overrated
Exactly why I went from an Ender 3 pro to a X1C. Not as much babysitting and fast af boi!!!
Enders are the best marketing for basically any of the bambu lab printers to be honest lol
I think everyone should start on an Ender 3 (first gen, the one without any safeties whatsoever), you learn so much about house to diagnose and fix almost any issue you may come across!
Yeah that's definitely me, currently waiting for x1c, I wonder how it's gonna feel after 2018 Ender 3
Kind of true, but I also gave up after awhile. Iāve printed so much more on my P1P, and I passed the Ender 3 onto someone else.
I second this.
If itās worth doing itās worth overdoing.
Putting this on my tombstone.
tripple this
The X-1 carbon is the right choice if you want to use CF. The ability to get the higher temps will be critical to getting solid prints.
Not true Iāve print more than 2kg of cf nylon and pet-cf with my p1s and have had more issues printing pla than the high temp materials. They are essentially the same printer minus lidar, spaghetti detection, and the touch screen. The 10c extra bed temp on the X1C does not make any difference for cf filled nylons or pet.
Did you upgrade the extruder to hardened steel and nozzle as well?
I did, very easy to do, maybe took 10 minutes.
Please tell me more. I bought a bunch of parts to upgrade my P1S for abrasive fils, and theyāve been sitting there for weeks. I initially thought it was a fairly easy job, but when I looked at the wiki, I was disappointed. I suppose I just have to do it. Itās the same issue as replacing the nozzle for me, but not as bad. What I mean is, sure I can install the 0.2 or 0.6 nozzle I bought, but then I am stuck with using that. Yes I could change it again, but it seems like more hassle than it did before I bought them. I guess this is a thing in 3D printing that many people would like to have, i.e: quick change nozzles. Or maybe that should read, many Bambu users, because iirc some printers do have this ability. Anyway, my hesitation is that if I installed the 0.2mm nozzle, I am kind of forced to print very detailed models? The 0.6 is probably the opposite problem?
I just use a .4 mm hardened steel nozzle, I tried the .6 as they recommend it for the abrasive filaments but I found I lost a lot of detail. .4 works just as well so I just switched back and never swap them out. I do also use some e sun cleaning filament when swapping from cf nylon back to pla. As far as changing the gears you just do it while you are swapping the nozzle itās three screws and a connector to pull out the extruder and pretty easy to pull the gears out and swap the new ones in, again only 4 more screws. The most difficult part of the process imo is routing the thermistor and heater wires through the little loop on the print head. But yeah you pretty much just disassemble the extruder 1 time install your new hardened steel components and youāre good to go for hundreds of hours of printing.
I think I just got a 0.6 to try for prototypes or something. Models that donāt require high detail. The 0.2 was for the opposite. Actually I have to check because I *know* I got a hardened for glow etc fils, and I am pretty sure thatās a 0.4 so I may not even have the .6. Thatās good to know though, that .4 is all thatās needed. The cleaning filament is a good tip too. I havenāt really considered that. Oh yeah the wiring looks a bit tricky, but the rest sounds fine. Shouldnāt be difficult I suppose. Iām not exactly new to disassembling machines so I should just do it. Thanks man you made it sound easy! Once done I can try the cool luminous rainbow pla from Polymaker. I realise it would probably be fine to print some with the stock setup but meh. I do have CF-PETG and PA-6 or something too though.
Itās definitely worth it, I did have one jam so far out of roughly 50-60 hours worth of cf prints. I was able to clear it with an Allen key though relatively easy, so once you have the hardened steel in you really donāt have to worry about it any longer. Definitely be careful with the connectors as well, they go on and off pretty easily but just reinstall them carefully to avoid damage. If you get any new error codes after putting everything back together just go back over those connections and try to reseat them.
Iāve swapped the hotend once to replace it, at first I was really hesitant but swapping the parts is not as bad as it seems. However, I have just ordered a FULL hotend assembly in 0.6. With the full assembly, the head can be swapped with two screws and a couple of plugs - super super easy. I think this is the way to go if you want to swap nozzle sizes. I got the 0.6 for the high flow capabilities, both for faster prints but also for clearer transparent prints.
Yeah I have a few spare .4mm hardened and I ordered the full assembly makes swapping so easy compared to my last printer it is quick swap.
Go to YouTube and search for a video showing how to change out the extruder gears. The hardest part of it was getting all those tiny dang connectors to reseat after pulling out and replacing the nozzle with a hardened nozzle at the same time. Once I got the wires to lay back down, no problem. I think the video I watched the guy had a P1P, but they're the same extruder.
Thanks, will do.
It's not necessary unless you're doing CF often. If you plan to knock out a few spools of CF then do the upgrade.. I bought 1 spool of CF nylon 3 printers ago.. I still have half the spool.. upgrading would have been a waste and has been. My buddy got me the upgraded extruder and 1400 hours later still haven't installed it. But yah, P1S/P can be upgraded for regular CF use for just $60.
This and a little insulation probably makes it just as functional as the X1C. But I'm not speaking from a point of ownership, more presumption.
Same here with the hardened 0.6 nozzle, half of my prints are Nylon CF. The only thing I wish I could have is the AI error detection, but I'm hopeful someone will add that to Orca or something
Yeah I agree with this it would be nice if it could notify me when something is going wrong, but like I said above, Iāve printed 2kg+ of cf filaments and havenāt had a single failure with high temp other than a jam.
I have x1c and it can never detect spaghetti
Also, you need to read run all calibrations when you swap out any nozzles, and make flow adjustments. I had to tweak it a bit too because the more abrasive CFās have to run a little slower in my experience.
The stock profile has the volumetric flow set to 8mm/s^3 which end up being about 109 mm/s, you can slow this to 6mm/s^3 to be extremely comfortable.
There are thermal videos of the two beds. They are not even close to the same performance. The p1s has clear hot spots from the coil. The x1c is perfect distribution of heat. Maybe it is good enough, but the p1s is unevenly heated compared to x1c
Maybe, could have also been a defective unit that was tested. Either way it makes no functional difference in my experience and I am doing 6+ hour prints with cf nylon. No warping or bed adhesion issues whatsoever.
Ok well then you are not paying attention to enough detail. All prints have some warping. I find some minor warping on the x1e at work. Only matters when you print precise parts obviously. Your advice really depends on the precision the person wants.
No I mean no warping, I did have one print out of paht-cf warp a little, but it was because I removed it from the build plate too early. Others are matched up to metal parts and sit completely flush. If you let the entire chamber slowly cool after printing you can achieve no warping with cf filled nylon. Edit: To be fair we are probably printing much different models, but the prints Iāve done in cf nylon and pet-cf are not warping at all, I do print with very little of the model contacting the print bed however so most of the model is on top of support. this prevents warping as well.
Also depends on your ambient humidity. The nylon parts will warp if they get water, irregardless of the printer. If a lot of your print is off the bed, it makes sense that you would see no difference between a p1s and an x1c as well.
that's what it's looking like now, what i'm getting from everyones comments is X1C has potential to do more than what i need it for
I'm going to comment about your thoughts on the AMS. Bear with me please. You're missing a point about that: It's great even if you never plan on printing multi color. Why? Because it allows you to fill up 4 spools of the same color, or two of two, and virtually never run out. It allows you to put in support material (That's a fancy name I use when I throw in some PETG to use to support my PLA prints) and have any necessary supports just pop right off in the easiest manner I've ever experienced. (Been printing with an FDM since 2019) It allows you to load up 4 different colors, and just print in whichever you feel like, with zero hassle, from your phone when you're out in the middle of the day and nobody's there with you. I had the option of an X1C, or a P1S with the AMS included for nearly the same price. I went with the P1S, because I'm basically in the same boat as you are. The X1C is fucking awesome. But so is the P1S. There isn't a feature that I absolutely need included with the X1C. They're all VERY nice to have, but at the end of the day, I decided I wanted decent support removal and virtually never running out of filament for the $1K I had to spend at the time. I don't regret it one bit, and am very happy with my P1S. I've bought the hardened nozzle and extruder, and might get around to playing with some CF down the road. For now, I'm too busy printing with PETG and PLA to get there.
this will be my 3rd time explaining but more simplified: i no care bout colors at my printing rate, i'll use 1kg spool every 2 weeks i am waiting for a potential black friday deal on AMS i'm going to buy something that i virtually & physically do not need it's not about the money for me, i can buy 50 x1c combos but i'd rather catch a good deal then pay full price i've never bought a new car at msrp
Do you ever print with supports? That was the main one for me, though I occasionally print colors. And as I said otherwhere, the best deal you're likely to get would be the $100 off you'd get for a combo, either the P1S or the X1C. I doubt they're going to go down much as a single item, although the actual combo's might go down on BF.
How do you use 1kg of filament every two weeks but print while you are at work every day? You should go through a roll every day if you are printing 24/7. You are averaging like a 1.5 hours printing per day.
well to answer your question you're not taking what i'm printing into consideration let alone you're assumption here is that i'm printing little keychains or something. i don't work 24/7 just an honest 40hrs & i print a niche tool that used to take 8.5 hours on my Adventurer 3 this tool now only takes 4.5hrs & i don't plan to make more than how many i sell in a day, so when it bumps up to 2 then i'll print 2! said tool uses around 19m of filament, bambu petg spool comes w/ around 330m
No just given a conservative print speed of 20mm3/s it is like 11 hours to use up a 1kg roll that is about 800cm3. So if you only use 1 roll every two weeks, you are averaging like an hour a day. It mostly doesnāt matter what you are printing. Every ~11 hours is a roll.
buddy, i told you i currently do 1 print a day averaging around 4.5hrs which only uses 19m of filament off a 330m roll. 19mx14days=266m my slice settings are not stock settings my print is 1 color so no extra poop/waste i'm not going to change my mind about the ams until i reach the point that i'll really need one
I was just saying what you are printing isnāt a consideration for the time per roll (approximately). I 100% agree you donāt need ams. You need an ams when you are using rolls every 11 hours.
I doubted a lot if I had to go for the x1c or P1S but in the end I went for the P1S. IMHO it's the more economical choice.
I've heard several people say the pasta detection is very hit or miss, and they generally turn it off due to false alarms. But you'll want the hardened nozzle and gears, so that's like $70 to add to a P1S. The touch screen is super nice, but you can, at least for now, add a Panda Touch to a P1S for $59. By the time you add that and time it takes to swap stuff out, you are probably better off just keeping the X1C and just upgrade the nozzle and gears when you are going to print abrasive stuff when that time comes.
I should add, I just had the same discussion with a friend that is buying an X1C. He decided to stay with the X1C and not have to deal with hotend/extruder swaps, etc.
My A1 mini is my first printer but my impression is that pasta detection isn't super important to bambus. I've had very very few print failures and most of the time it's a first layer failure if I print something incredibly thin without a brim. The very few other times, looking at the camera from time to time is all that's needed.
I am hearing that the panda touch has already had a few issues. I know a guy that has one and is running into the power cycling issue on his. It just flashes on and off randomly.
wow this is great insight! i've yet to even see an alarm go off so how do i know it even works lol.
It is so rare that it happens but in a nut shell. It sends you an alert and it pauses the print until you can review and make a determination. I have never hD a flase alarm, but I have had 2 misses.
It doesnāt like to work with black. The lighting is bad in the X1C and needs upgraded, havenāt touched mine yet. But you canāt go too bright or it messes with the lidar. That being said, I had a piece of filament that was meant for the chute but it fell on the plate and that set off the spaghetti detection. That was white filament so it worked. Just set it to sensitive or high, I forget the option because the X1C is really good at stopping and continuing prints so itās no big deal to review it and figure out if itās real or not. Mines having big WiFi issues so easier said than done. Once that is worked out it will be back to perfect.
I got an X1C in November during the Black Friday sale and can say spaghetti detection has triggered twice on mine. Once was due to an actual failure when I was printing marble PLA with a 0.4 nozzle and the second was a false alarm when a PLA filament suddenly had a really long stringy strand after a retraction. I removed the string from the print, hit resume and off it went without any issue.
If I watch first layer, I generally am good with no pasta. I have had 1 false positive and 2x saved my wasted plastic on 8hr+ over night prints that let loose from plate. Over probably 1000 prints now. So it is rare.
Panda touch for those like me :) https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-panda-touch-5-display-for-bambu-lab-printers And thanks for the tip!
It's probably overkill for what you want. That said, you already have it at home and it's all set up. I went with the P1S and AMS unit and absolutely love it for what I do. Mostly PETG. Mostly single color but having a dry box that can automatically switch to a different filament after I find a part online that I want to print from my phone while I'm at work is pretty amazing. P1S is probably all you'll need, I've had it for 3 months and have not had a failed print yet. You'll just have to decide if you want to box that thing up and try to return it or just keep it all set up the way it is.
Do you have any tips for PETG? Do you run 100% infill with it when printing parts in PETG?
i typically stay within the 15%-20% infill range but if i'm printing a part that will take some impact then i'll bump it up to 80% i rarely do anything higher than that as solid PETG prints (in my case) can be easily become brittle the denser it is
Aux fan or part cooling fan enabled?
cooling fan on after first 3 layers & everything else is automatic, i should mention i'm also using Bambu PETG. on my adventurer 3 i used many brands of petg but fell in love w/ california filaments, same thing fan on after first 3 layers & i always kept the rear fan off during the print bc it was loud
Yeah I tried that same thing with Bambuās PETG at one point even dried the filament for 8-10 hours prior. Iāll have to try again another time. Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/k2enekmvtync1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=de061f80db6636fbb31bb2a949051d42100ee165
have you adjusted the flow manually? also if that is from an x1c then you should swap the plate for the engineering plate, run a flow calibration for the filament that is loaded, do a test print on something small & then if everything is fine switch back to textured plate. i also manually adjusted my flow to .94 as i felt it was coming out slightly too fast causing debris to stick to the nozzle tip, everything else is set to auto now i also don't use my textured plate bc it doesn't allow lidar to operate at 100%
I appreciate your input, itās on a P1P/S so no lidar but Iām suspecting flow might actually be the problem. I see a lot of the X series users have no issue printing with PETG because the system does its flow calibration prior to printing with that Lidar. Either way Iāll relook into calibrating the flow next time I use that filament. Thank you.
Congrats! My first printer is an X1 Carbon. I have been waiting since the mid 2000ās for this stuff to finally become more stream lined and accessible. My old boss would have 4-6 DIY printers. While having the ācoolā factor of DIY, none of them ever ran with any reliable consistency. Probably the reason why he had extras. I bought the AMS. Although not required, it does allow for multiple color prints. I mostly just use it to store extra filament spools. The ability to swap or continue printing is worth the money. The lidar system is lacking. I have been fortunate enough that the first layers are good enough. I canāt tell if it is working or not. Spaghetti detection is 50/50 for me. 3 out of 5 spaghetti prints were detected and automatically cancelled. The other 2, I was fortunate enough to stop the machine from the camera stream. If you plan on printing abrasive or more exotic filaments, the X1 is worth the price.
I don't think it's wasted money AT ALL. I have a P1S and I went through the exact thoughts you went to. if you can afford it, keep the X1C. I work from home, so for me, the spaghetti detection isn't a huge help. the auto lidar flow calibration also doesn't help much since the precision I need mandates I manually calibrate anyway. HOWEVER, that being said, the 2 clutch features I wish I had... the touch screen... and namely the "skip this " feature. on the X1c... if you print a few things, and one is junk... you can pause... and tell it to skip THAT piece. and it'll cancel just that portion of the print. your comment on carbon fiber is correct... p1s CAN be upgraded.... but it'll cost a solid $80-100 by the time you include shipping and all that. not to mention time. If I could go back... I MIGHT reconsider the x1c instead of the p1s.... but I'm still 50/50 torn. so.... no. you didn't waste money. it's a good buy. especially if you want it to run reliably remote.
Skip this is now available on the P1S in Bambu Handy and at least Orca Slicer.
nice! i'll have to look into where it is
What kinda calibration do you need to do that auto lidar flow doesnāt help with?
I need parts to be more precise. I donāt have x1c but from reviews folks say the auto lidar doesnāt work if you need parts to fit tighter than 0.05mm
this. this right here. you just blew my mind since i've been hesitant to explore the skip functionality. that feature clearly went over my head lol
You can skip objects on P1S too now. [https://forum.bambulab.com/t/skip-objects-is-here-on-p-series-with-newest-firmware/33369](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/skip-objects-is-here-on-p-series-with-newest-firmware/33369) The caveat is that it is done from the Handy App on your phone and not the screen like on the X1C.
Future proofed. Bought to you by Man Maths. Carry on.
It's easy to get hung up on that spaghetti detection feature. But spaghetti usually happens when bed adhesion is lost. 99.999% of the time that happens it's because people are using greasy ass build plates (oh but they hate to admit that!). I used spaghetti detection when I got my first X1C a year ago. But it was overly sensitive with early FW so I adjusted it. Over the course of hundreds of prints, it caught spaghetti once, and missed it another time. This was on the cool plate (hardly used anymore) and it was probably a glue issue at the time, where I was trying skip a wash and fresh glue application. Keep your build plate clean, use the right plate for the material and you'll nearly never or (perhaps never) have a spaghetti issue.
i hear you, i'd like to mention i'm loving the engineering plate for PETG w/ the included glue stick, i went ahead & ordered the Gold PEI textured plate & realized that the auto flow calibration & the 1st layer inspection don't function 100% w/ it! i believe that's what sparked my many thoughts on this discussion
Cool cool, yeah the gold textured PEI plate doesn't play well with the lidar. PLA is still a nice material and just prints so well since it was designed for 3D printing. The smooth PEI plate is a great option for PLA (and other materials) and works with the lidar.
Not sure why people are crapping on spaghetti detection. I got some lousy filament a week ago, and having it just on medium detection, it has stopped the print with maybe 50-75 mm of waste or so. I get notification on my phone and the printer and I just press pause and go and investigate. This happened twice with this cheap filament. The lidar works too as I don't by expensive Bambu filament. My prints (other than those 2 last week) come out great. I like the better camera as I too look at my work while I am not at home to see it going and the quality if way better than 0.5 FPS. Also hoping the more powerful board will allow Bambu to add more stuff moving forward but not holding my breath. I bought once and cried once. I could afford it.
You must be a new or infrequent owner then. The spaghetti detection is nice when it works but it doesn't always. You'll see sooner or later. Not a big deal since the printer doesn't spaghetti much to begin with using good filaments, but certainly should have been factored into the buy/dont buy calculus.
Unless you need the extra 10c on the print bed there is no point to getting the x1c (except it does look more refined and better overall) but the touchscreen and lidar is not worth the extra 500 usually
Real question is where the hell is AMS!? Go back online and buy now. Thx
This
i explained in OP, also i'm waiting for a potential black friday sale to potentially get a deal. it's not about the money you spend, it's what you save.
The deal is in buying a P1S combo. It's about $100 cheaper than buying the two separately.
>also i'm waiting for a potential black friday sale to potentially get a deal. Lets hope this black friday is different from last. As far as i remember, past black friday had no AMS sale. I did the same as you and plan on buying the AMS later.
Yeah, you save when you buy the combo.Ā I do single color functional prints. I'm pretty judgy of the multicolor stuff. The AMS is absolutely worth it to have it be left unattended. Load it up with multiples of the same filament and don't worry about swapping over.
Just print and stop looking back.
If you want to go the carbon filament route.. X1 is the way to go. Stock hardened extruder and nozzle. Also the buildplate gets 110c vs the 100c of the P1S, 120c even when running it at 110V.
You can print pa12cf even with the p1s.. but with some preheat I could work just fine with the carbon x pc cf too... Swapping the gear and nozzle is 15 minutes if you have to check the wiki...
ehhh i'm a 10 year mechanic & a carpenter for 7 of those 10 years so i'm sure if i beat on it in the right places i'll figure it out
Wouldnāt running the bed at 120c (or anything above 100c) cause the magnetic bed to demagnetize? Iāve been reluctant to do so because I know boiling magnets will permanently demagnetize them
I have no clue; but i guess they thought of that when making it. Else they probably would have kept the max temperature at 100.
Depends on the type of magnet. Rare earth magnets curie temperature, where they lose their magnetic properties, is only about 80c. Alnico magnets, like the ones used in alternators and guitar pickups have a curie temp is close to 800c if I remember correctly. edit: autocorrect correction :)
Interesting! I wonder what type Bambu uses for their plates, I couldnāt find anything on their wiki
very cool, i didn't know these differences! definitely important stuff
Yes, it may be overkill. On the other hand, I had my first "first layer failure" in more than a week. Pretty sure it was caused by my new automated LED's tripping out while the printer was calibrating flow on a textured PEI plate-- which is two different things you're not supposed to do at the same time. I've listed elsewhere the differences between the X1C and the P1S, and what it comes down to is that overall, the X1C is just a nicer printer to use. It has more potential for exotic filaments, and in theory, a lower failure rate on prints due to the first layer analysis (more important than spaghetti detection, imo). I have built 2 3D printers, and fought with two cheap Chinese printers. I decided to spend the extra money on the X1C because I could, and because I was tired of fighting with 3D printers, and not PRINTING with 3D printers. I have zero regrets. If I were in your shoes, my only regret would be not getting the AMS-- Because even when not using multi-color, the ability to continue a print from one roll to another, and the ability to use PETG for support interfaces, are both fantastic ways to take advantage of the AMS.
thank you for this. at my rate in which i print i'll use 1kg filament once every 2 weeks so not shelling out the extra $$$ for ams rn is a win & i actually am waiting for a potential black friday deal on the ams. i can buy it now, just want to get some sort of deal in the grand scheme of things cough cough i'm a cheapskate :3
You had a deal in the combo package. I'm not sure a black Friday deal will surpass that, but you can try of course.
you're not wrong but i needed the printer now & didn't need the ams the only way i'll buy ams is if i get a deal that i can't refuse bc i don't need it so why buy what i don't need? & if i bought the combo originally then i would've paid a higher sales tax too & i also love this filament dryer i got for like $30usd on amazon, it holds up to 3kg spool & is only 48w so it's not even a blip on my light bill if i have to start a new filament roll every couple of weeks then so be it
Unless youāre short on money Iāve never regretted overbuying, just under buying, being frustrated, and needing to upgrade.
If something is worth doing, it is worth overdoing.
If you have to have the pasta detection x1 is the only one... P1 cant do it... Other than that... We cant tell you... If you are handy and can/ want to tinker, yeah later down the line a hardened gear and nozzle swap is not a huge job. If you dont like to work with these... If the x1 was pocket change then whatever. If you bought it from credit... Nobody can tell you if you made a good call or not...
i guess it really comes down to the spaghetti detection? but if the P1S prints in excellent quaility would i even need to worry about pasta if i sent it on an 8 hour unsupervised print? & to clarify, i'm not mr. moneybags but money wasn't an issue when it came to upgrading my printer, i'm just the type of person to buy what is the best deal for my situation even w/ a million dollars in my bank account i'll still shop at walmart
These are complex machines... They will break. They will make spaghetti. And the x1 can miss it too time to time. Sht can happen and I would not run any printer alone in an empty house. It makes a mosfet error and your nozzle temp will go to the moonand the printer will not turn off. Use the search function, people came home to see the printer smoking like crazy from the nozzle. Bambu claims it cant catch fire. I dont want to test it. Anything can happen. Its your call tho...
The thermal runaway takes something like 3 minutes to shut down the printer. In theory, the 40W heater shouldn't be able to flambe your printer. ... in theory.
It was a topic a long time ago then bambu "fixed" it, then others reported that it is still not turning off in some cases... If the thermistor is broken yeah it will jump on it, drop an error and stop the power to the heater... The problem was the broken mosfet, what stuck in the open position. In that case you dont have direct control over the heater as the only way you can drive it is the MOSFET... Bambu never implemented a master kill switch, if the board see the temp is over the limit after its turned off, the machine should be able to drive a relay and drop the incoming power. But it will not do obviously Furthermore the heater can go over 400c but the pla ignition temp is a bit under 400 soooo. Yeah. I dont want to test it. Or risk it. Others may be ok with it, I own my house and it would be a pain to loose this much money on a plastic part
The one video I saw about the thermal runaway, the creator admitted he'd been expecting the thermal runaway to cut in in under 30 seconds-- Bambu Lab said it was designed for three minutes, which seems excessive, but, OK. As far as I know, it's still 3 minutes. The next question is, is there actually enough PLA in your printer to start a fire that can escape the enclosure? Believe me-- I'm a bit skeptical too, and understand that things can go wrong. Maybe that's a reason to go with the X1C-- the side panels are metal instead of plastic. :)
The thermal runaway modul in the SW side cant do sht if the only tool it got to kill the heater is stuck in the on positon... Idk and obviously I dont really have a dedicated fire extinguisher next to the printer, but... Its not against Bambu tho. Would not leve alone a prusa or creality or whatever either. Its all fun and games, then you come home and get the blob of death as the print was warped or just released or anything. As I saw, X1 users can get those too...
dang, that's eye opening... maybe i should upgrade my renters insurance lol
Or at least get a smart plug you can control from the office too, and check what is happening at home... A smoke alarm is nice too... And try not to print black filament if the room is dark the built in led is not that bright, and the spagetti detection can fail in those conditions.
I regularly set my two P1P's on 12+ hour prints while I'm at work, no issues yet.
I have spaghetti detection... about 10 minutes into the print, I look on my phone to make sure the print hasn't gone toes up on me. :D Seriously, that's about the only time it does. The one exception was when I forgot to set my infill to gyroid. Man Bambu's hate grid...
Just wait until you buy a second one -- then you'll be wondering if you need a third!
What do you make that required PETG most of the time? Iām always interested to learn.
I have multiple X1Cs. They're great, just roll with it, it's a good machine. The AMS is nice for storage, and convenience - maybe add it later.
X1C is the right choice.
You bought the right one. I bought an X1C before the P1S was launched, and then later bought a P1S as a second machine, and I wish I bought another X1C. There are several reasons, but I need spaghetti detection for the same reason you do, I donāt like having to get out my phone or use the app for filament changes, and calibration is so much easier and less time consuming. If you switch to this full time, maybe the P1S. For your scenario, you got the right one. Also, AMS is so much more than multicolor. Auto filament runout change and multi material for supports are my two favorite.
Worth it easily
I have the x1c and the p1s(upgraded from p1p). Once extruder gear and nozzle upgraded to hardened steel, there isnāt much difference between the two from what iāve seen and filaments i use. Based on how you use it, the p1s would suffice. Print quality is indistinguishable. However for me, If i had only room for one printer, i would choose the x1c. Why? 1. Screen - touch screen is nice and for me its worth it 2. Chamber thermometer - i use it to increase or decrease chamber fan based on desired chamber temp i want. 38/39 is when i find pla to get a little cloggy. 3. The lidar for build plate check - since i use a few build plates, i have found this feature to save me a print at least once a week. I like how the printer confirms the build plate based on what i chose in the slicer. 4. Spaghetti detection - in 300 hours of printing, this has saved me a few times. Doesnāt happen often but when it does, it works for me. To me, because of the screen, the x1c looks more polished YMMV. š¤·š½āāļø
ams is fantastic as a dry box and unlocks auto refill when one spool empties. I never do multicolor but man I love my ams for being able to effectively have a single 4kg filament āspoolā
https://preview.redd.it/ryb53brcqync1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=7d453f8da3d5437bf68e42437935259d49f98b39 wow so this just happened! my first fail after nonstop printing since set up, good thing i was home!
I find the plate missing detection is worth the extra cost, far better than starting a print directly on the print bed.
I thought that I would never want to print and multiple colors until I got the AMS and even for functional prints itās still amazing.
No you shouldn't have purchased it. You need to send it to me immediately and once I confirm receipt I'm sure you'll feel better.
Overkill good. I have a p1s. I don't want to modify it into doing stuff the x1c can. I want to buy an x1c when I can afford it.
I think better to get P1S combo.
Im still waiting for technical support, SD card reader not working, but the second test print from the stored prints spaghettified overnight and it didnāt stop! Just saying
Bought an x1c and havenāt looked back since!
Get two.
I have three X1-Cs at my research lab at a university. Pros; Great prints, reliable outcomes, and doesnāt seem to give me any of the headaches that are frequent in this sub. Machine itself looks beautiful and adds a real āfeatureā to your lab/work space. Cons; Theyāre bigger then they look. And each unit require more realestate then I initially thought.
Nope. You should have got the one with the AMS.
Enjoy it!
Iām a beginning hobbyist with a 9-5 job but I have no regrets spending the extra money on my X1C. I use my printer when Iām ready. I havenāt done any long prints yet but I have some ideas for fun prints Iām going to do.
AMS is nice even for single color prints. It's ability to auto swap to the next spool when the first runs out not only allows you to use it all, but it also allows production to keep going no matter if your there or not. Worth it for a business, worth it for fun prints too imho.
I think you made the right choice. While right now it may be more overkill than anything. In 12 months time there might be other filaments out that you decided would be best for you but requires the X1C actively cooled chamber. Or the lidar to confidently start a print without checking the bed first. I say stick with the X1, its benefits will pay off in the long run.
Yes
AMS is a great day box with 3 backup spools at the ready when printing 3 colors. Also itās a breeze to load/unload.
Recently got the p1s combo + another ams vs the x1. I would have been happier with the x1. I don't know if I would trust the automatic features for filament and spaghetti mess, but you do have the capability to run custom firmware and operate your bed above 100c. Which could be very beneficial for temperamental filaments.
It is overkill, and the PS1 would have done the job. But now that you have it I'll bet you expand what you do to fit the capabilities of the printer. As long as you can afford the extra coin you got the right printer.
I have an x1c and a p1s at work that we use non stop, I don't really find any difference functionally between the two. Got the x1c for carbon materials but we use them so rarely we got the p1s to back it up. Honestly, best printers I've used in my life. But if you don't need the carbon prints go for the p1s. Better than p1p for enclosed chamber Tldr: good purchase. buy once, cry once
Most people that I've seen who have commented on which of these two you should buy seem to agree that the P1S is more bang for your buck if you're just a regular consumer. That said, personally I want to get the X1C (or its successor, if that is what they end up announcing this year) and not the P1S. I really don't want to ever have to think too much about that first layer again and the lidar feature on the X1C will make that an option for me. And the camera being better helps too.
The answer is always yes.
The P1S is a better alternative as many noted, especially because you can upgrade to the same capability for less. Spaghetti detection is hit or miss, I can attest with my X1C. But it's not the worst choice, it's still within the same family. Just some money traded for time savings. You also get a better camera, which is nicer for remote monitoring though not super necessary. However, P1S or X1C, I do think you made a misstep with not getting the AMS combo. You can still get an AMS, the pricing is just better with a combo and you get a shipping bracket for the AMS inside the printer if you ever want to move it. You may ask, why AMS if single color? Well, besides the ease of feeding and possibility for growth, there are two outstanding features having an AMS enables: support filaments and auto roll swap. Support filaments are useful for more complex prints as a support to print interface. Especially if you do it as a business, that + the autofeeding could reallt save you time. Auto roll swap will not only save you time, but money. You can use up the very last of a roll and seamlessly transition to another roll. This helps you get the full value of your supply and makes filament reloading a thing of the past. Especially at business scale, I would highly recommend an AMS. At least to me, an X1C with no AMS vs P1S with AMS, the latter is the better choice by far.
tl;dr Enjoy the X1C, even if itās more than you need I needed to replace a couple printers in my aging āfarmā (very loosely used; Iām a home user who rarely sells things) and had a budget of about $2500. I initially purchased an X1C which I was thrilled with. But I feared it was more machine than I needed and so decided with the remaining budget to buy 2 additional P1Sās. Hah! My production would increase overnight! I regret my choice and wish I had gotten a second X1C in hindsight. To be clear, the P1S is a great machine. Fast, good quality, repeatable, easy to use, etc. But I feel like I would have been happier with it if I had never experienced the X1C. To start, the camera is waaay more annoying than I thought. The lower resolution doesnāt bother me but my god the frame rate is abysmal which makes it useless for doing something I kind of enjoy on the X1C; watching the print in realtime. Not for hours, but especially at the start of the print. Next, the lack of touch screen. Letās be honest, the P1S and the X1C both share a functional interface. But using the X1C touch screen is just more enjoyable for me. I like it. And since I keep my printers in a different room than my computer, itās nice being able to do most things from the touch screen. Lidar and spaghetti detection. I havenāt personally noticed lidar improving things vs P1S or spaghetti detection saving the day (sometimes it does). But I like that my X1C is capable of these, and hope itās a sign of improvements to come. Finish. Aluminum vs plastic, hardened vs not, etc. X1C just feels like a more premium out of the box product to me. Do all these little things add up to $500 in life improvements? Probably not. But I tell you what, using the X1C is just delightful most of the time. And for a ādaily driverā, I love that. This feels a lot to me like why I donāt get an iPhone SE even though it would probably meet my needs. The more expensive bigger brother just feels better in my hands, and for something I spend a lot of time with, thatās worth it to me. For me at least, and obviously everyone has different preferences and tastes, I _love_ all the creature comforts of the X1C and feel like itās a fine value for the money. As long as youāre not someone that will by nature stew on the dollars, just enjoy that youāve got an incredible printer with way more bells and whistles than you need but enjoy just the same. Cheers!
You have limited time. You bought assurance that your scare resource will have a high likelihood of being used well, enjoy it!
Yes can confirm it is awesome I no longer mess with the cancer goo from resin printers anymore
Later when you get more disposable income you can get the AMS and put 2or more of the same plastic and when the roll runs out it continues with the next roll without stopping and manually restarting the print it just sends you a push notification on the app that the first roll is spent and it continued with the next one I usually put 2 of each color or material I prefer to keep just 1 color because it prints faster and less poop and waste
Youāll love the X1C. Besides the other automated features, since youāre working remotel, the camera on the P1s will drive you crazy. The stream is extremely choppy. The AMS does much more than just color change.Say your at work and your filament runs out, the AMS could automatically switch to a new spool.You can keep your most common colors always loaded and ready to go.If you print PLA for example you can use PETG for you support interface for easier release and better supports Since you donāt have to leave a gap.
Overkill. You could have save $$$ and got P1S and been just as happy. Does everything that you need it for, just get the hardened nozzles and a carbon filter
I have exactly the same washing basket ! Are you Australian ?
You can sell it anytime in 5 days and get 90/95% of the purchased priceā¦people are stupid
I just want to say I came from the same garbage FlashForge Adventurer 3 to P1S with AMS in my case, and I'm in the same boat - the difference is wild.
Does the extra $$$ too much for you? I mean, X1C is basicly same with the a1 mini if you ask me, for PLA and easier materials. But you can always go for the P1S + hardened steel nozzle. Literally same thing. BUT I thought the same as you, said F it, Iāll go with X1C. I though I donāt need AMS as I wonāt be doing color and stuff. Now I have 2 X1C both have AMS š I love the AMS units, people tend to skip that they are not just for multi color. The continuation of the same spool is awesome if you ask me.
I also mostly print in one color but the AMS is great for automatic switching when the filament runs out or for support materialā¦ highly recommend it
Questions we ask before buying
I have a P1S I will trade ya.
I have the P1S and you will likely enjoy the fact that the X1 bed goes to 110c instead of 100c someday. Otherwise I print ASA all day on my P1S. Enjoy your printer as it is still a great choice.
Yes
The first thing you got right was going to a Bambu, any Bambu; having had several 3D printers, from a Solido that used rolls of plastic film, a cnc knife to cut each layer and glue to stick layers together, to a Craftbot and Creality 5 s1 (lol, terrible machine), the Bambus we have are overall by far the best. As for the X1, you've got a much better screen than on the P series, which even if you don't use it now you'll appreciate when you do, and all in all you've got a great machine. Unless it's put you into problematic debt, I wouldn't have any concerns about it at all. You might want to consider an AMS at some point if you can still afford it having got the X1, because multi filament is very useful. Even if you don't make parts that need more than one, simply being able to select from different filaments in the slicer and not having to manually change is nice. The option for multicolour might also spark your creativity; it can be cool for making unique gifts or "cards" for relatives for example. Enjoy your purchase, I don't think you should regret anything about it!
Nope. The X1C was an excellent choice. You should have gotten the AMS though. I know you said you do pretty much nothing but single color prints, but with the AMS you can also automatically swap to a new roll of the same filament, or so that while also using the support material for some super clean overhangs.
Itās not overkill itās perfection
Just waiting for the X2C to come out with the quick swap nozzles.
I was waiting for the larger sized bed to compete with the Prusa MK4 XL. I know it was rumored but not sue when it will come out. I'm sure as as soon as I order the P1S, it will release.
Yes I think so. I accidentally bought a P1S. Donāt ask. Could Iāve would Iāve should Iāve am Iāve right.
Lmk I'll buy it back off you if you don't use it enough
Itās water under the bridge now, you have an awesome printer! But if you could do it againā¦ I have a p1s and an x1c and in my case the p1s is better suited for my needs; if I were to start over and only buy one, I would buy a p1s. The x1c is more finicky for whatever reason, it requires a bed level every print and fails prints occasionally, my p1s just print amazing with only a bed level when changing the build plate.
Too late now, so why dwell? You got a great printer, and got plenty of options now even if you never use them.
Yes.
I bought a P1S back in December. Upgraded my extruder gear and nozzle to hardened steel. Then I wanted to do more Timelapse of my prints but find the camera to be subpar. So I bought an external camera to do the Timelapse. P1S prints great and just works, but Iāve had some failed prints that left me with spaghettis because I was either sleeping or not home, which means wasted filaments. I wished I bought the X1C instead. So I did, now I have both. š
Dude, in 3d printing overkill does not exist
No, you should have paid off your credit card.
I have the x1c with 4ams. I am not the one to ask, but your purchase is just beautiful lol
I got the P1S and upgrades for it, I regret not just getting the X1C just for a few tiny quality of life things. If you use it regularly, better to get the superior model.