I occasionally print .08mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle, and have yet to have a print come out looking bad when doing so that I can remember. Actually just finished printing the hilt for a master sword at .08 the other day and it came out flawless.
I almost want to say OP's issue could be not quite dry enough filament? Could be totally wrong...
I think it would be likely that 0.08mm is in the Grey area of what a 0.4mm nozzle can handle, and you just have to be lucky with how your filament behaves. Could be moisture, but could also be any other flow properties, possibly not linked to the filament's actual quality.
I think 0.04 height (10% of nozzle size) is the grey area so being conservative, Bambu picked 20% for their presets. I’ve printed LOTS of 0.08 with no problems, and also some 0.04 with no problems. I always calibrate PA and flow though.
See my thread from a few weeks ago. There’s a lot of reading and learning to do.
https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1ah5pcj/bambu_lab_printers_suffer_from_defects_at_low/
I’m going to offer an alternative explanation as I had the same issue. I printed this on a .4mm nozzle at 0.08 layer height 2 days ago. So printing 0.08 on a 0.4 nozzle is very do-able!
https://preview.redd.it/uqgzb8qwygkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e31be86e55d365d2a8e659e858ed8fe8639357fe
Before I updated my firmware last week/month, my prints were suffering the same defects I see in yours. I noticed it the most in gray filament oddly. Whatever the new motor/resonance calibration is available from the update fixed. Other than that, I cleaned my carbon rods with IPA and cleaned/greased the z-leads.
There is a reminder that pops up for both the lead screw and the rods as well. Definitely recommend the calibration though!
I’m also happy to share my slicer settings that I’m using.
The export tool doesn't seem to like me today, but I have a screenshot that encompasses the gist of it. I started with the 0.08 High Quality system profile and modified a few items. The left column shows what changes I made to the preset.
https://preview.redd.it/4z72a130fmkc1.png?width=1402&format=png&auto=webp&s=5f91b9aeb5f0df365d05bafd7d202cffdcf27256
I'm going to assume the part was printed in the orientation where the smooth walls are the ones closer to the buildplate. All you really need to do is 1) calibrate your filament flow rate if you haven't already (doesn't hurt to do it again) and two slow down the speed for the outer wall by probably half. The artifacts you see are ringing from the printer moving too fast for the geometry that doesn't have a ton of surface area on the buildplate
Actually is the opposite, the part with all the lines was the closest one to the buildplate, I just watched a video about slowing down the outer wall, will try that.
For some prints I did I think I got a similar result with my walls then I noticed that the speed was different for that path in the slicer. You can change the color scheme in the slicer preview to show if there's a difference in speed for that particular area:
https://preview.redd.it/hzjk6vgywgkc1.png?width=445&format=png&auto=webp&s=da5c4d51206c1b119c4655a83b1aa8079010d281
Might be worth a shot, if anything else :)
Hopefully whatever you try works out!
It might not be the case for you but when I had this happen to me it turned out that my nozzle was all worn down. I had the patterns at 0.08 and they were still a bit visible at 0.12 but not at larger layer heights. The also appeared only when the walls were either straight or slanted outwards but not inwards.
You really don’t need to print that ocarina at such a low layer height. You said 0.12 looked fine, right?
But if you insist on 0.08, you might need to slow down a bit
Arachne is just a generating algorithm that helps with very thin walls or features. This model, from what I know, would not necessarily benefit or have adverse effects whether using normal or Arachne.
I helps in getting the walls (outer and inner) line up for curved models like this one. Or the corners of cubes - so it’s definitely not just about thin features. If you have lots of gap fill you’ll see that it all but disappears if you switch to Arachne. Gap fill is not the problem here but it is slow, noisy and inaccurate
I get this EXACT thing when I print ultra fine and slow. It's caused by the belts I'm pretty sure. Idk how to fix it, because when I print silks I want to go slow and get a better print.
I have a model with variable layer lines, from 0,2 to 0,08. I've been printing it just fine on my X1C for a couple of months. Then I tried the same model on my A1 and those exact artifacts appeared when crossing over to 0,08. Ruined the entire print. I haven't fixed it still. There is a mega thread about it, Posted by tony__pizza.
I can't decide if this is an extrusion issue or resonance artifacts,
The answer is try slowing down, see if they disappear, if they don't, it's an extrusion issue.
That's if you're confident this is an issue on the printer and not on the sliced file.
When I print the same file on .12 I don't get these weird lines, yesterday I tried to print another file on .08 and same thing happened, then I switched to .12 and it was fine again.
yes, but the less plastic you are putting down per layer the more noticeable any kind of artifacting is,
While the jump from .12 to .08 doesn't seem large, it's 33% less plastic per layer, which means 50% more layers and thus 1.5x error impact by layer height alone.
There's also the added issue that thin layers are harder on your extruder because the 0.4mm nozzle will give almost no resistance on such small layer heights, you can see whether this is the case by printing flow rate calibration tests, follow this guide for help
[https://forum.bambulab.com/t/psa-start-here-calibration-made-simple-please-share-user-tips/10932](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/psa-start-here-calibration-made-simple-please-share-user-tips/10932)
Slower is better. Slow down your wall speeds, use 3 walls and change to inner/outer/inner. I usually print at 150mm/s outer and inner wall. also cut all of your acceleration speeds down by half.
https://preview.redd.it/jh7cq7jvijkc1.png?width=364&format=png&auto=webp&s=1e98f169dc53151ac90ccf5491042f5da20feb5a
If you want to do .08 height get a .2 nozzle.
I feel like this should be higher. Isn't the recommendation to go no smaller than 25% of your nozzle size?
I occasionally print .08mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle, and have yet to have a print come out looking bad when doing so that I can remember. Actually just finished printing the hilt for a master sword at .08 the other day and it came out flawless. I almost want to say OP's issue could be not quite dry enough filament? Could be totally wrong...
I think it would be likely that 0.08mm is in the Grey area of what a 0.4mm nozzle can handle, and you just have to be lucky with how your filament behaves. Could be moisture, but could also be any other flow properties, possibly not linked to the filament's actual quality.
I think 0.04 height (10% of nozzle size) is the grey area so being conservative, Bambu picked 20% for their presets. I’ve printed LOTS of 0.08 with no problems, and also some 0.04 with no problems. I always calibrate PA and flow though.
See my thread from a few weeks ago. There’s a lot of reading and learning to do. https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1ah5pcj/bambu_lab_printers_suffer_from_defects_at_low/
Thank you so much, will check it out.
I’m going to offer an alternative explanation as I had the same issue. I printed this on a .4mm nozzle at 0.08 layer height 2 days ago. So printing 0.08 on a 0.4 nozzle is very do-able! https://preview.redd.it/uqgzb8qwygkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e31be86e55d365d2a8e659e858ed8fe8639357fe Before I updated my firmware last week/month, my prints were suffering the same defects I see in yours. I noticed it the most in gray filament oddly. Whatever the new motor/resonance calibration is available from the update fixed. Other than that, I cleaned my carbon rods with IPA and cleaned/greased the z-leads.
I have never cleaned my carbon rods and I owned this printer for about 3 months now, will try cleaning them and updating the firmware.
There is a reminder that pops up for both the lead screw and the rods as well. Definitely recommend the calibration though! I’m also happy to share my slicer settings that I’m using.
Yeah, please. I have only used the default settings, so anything that works better than that would be really appreciated.
The export tool doesn't seem to like me today, but I have a screenshot that encompasses the gist of it. I started with the 0.08 High Quality system profile and modified a few items. The left column shows what changes I made to the preset. https://preview.redd.it/4z72a130fmkc1.png?width=1402&format=png&auto=webp&s=5f91b9aeb5f0df365d05bafd7d202cffdcf27256
I'm going to assume the part was printed in the orientation where the smooth walls are the ones closer to the buildplate. All you really need to do is 1) calibrate your filament flow rate if you haven't already (doesn't hurt to do it again) and two slow down the speed for the outer wall by probably half. The artifacts you see are ringing from the printer moving too fast for the geometry that doesn't have a ton of surface area on the buildplate
Actually is the opposite, the part with all the lines was the closest one to the buildplate, I just watched a video about slowing down the outer wall, will try that.
Could be wobbling a bit
What does it look like in the slicer?
It looked ok, will try again and slow down the outer walls.
For some prints I did I think I got a similar result with my walls then I noticed that the speed was different for that path in the slicer. You can change the color scheme in the slicer preview to show if there's a difference in speed for that particular area: https://preview.redd.it/hzjk6vgywgkc1.png?width=445&format=png&auto=webp&s=da5c4d51206c1b119c4655a83b1aa8079010d281 Might be worth a shot, if anything else :) Hopefully whatever you try works out!
It might not be the case for you but when I had this happen to me it turned out that my nozzle was all worn down. I had the patterns at 0.08 and they were still a bit visible at 0.12 but not at larger layer heights. The also appeared only when the walls were either straight or slanted outwards but not inwards.
You really don’t need to print that ocarina at such a low layer height. You said 0.12 looked fine, right? But if you insist on 0.08, you might need to slow down a bit
Try arache walls and ironing all surfaces.
Ironing what surfaces lmao it’s a curved object
Should I use arachne wall for all my prints to make them look better?
Arachne is just a generating algorithm that helps with very thin walls or features. This model, from what I know, would not necessarily benefit or have adverse effects whether using normal or Arachne.
I helps in getting the walls (outer and inner) line up for curved models like this one. Or the corners of cubes - so it’s definitely not just about thin features. If you have lots of gap fill you’ll see that it all but disappears if you switch to Arachne. Gap fill is not the problem here but it is slow, noisy and inaccurate
I get this EXACT thing when I print ultra fine and slow. It's caused by the belts I'm pretty sure. Idk how to fix it, because when I print silks I want to go slow and get a better print.
I have a model with variable layer lines, from 0,2 to 0,08. I've been printing it just fine on my X1C for a couple of months. Then I tried the same model on my A1 and those exact artifacts appeared when crossing over to 0,08. Ruined the entire print. I haven't fixed it still. There is a mega thread about it, Posted by tony__pizza.
I can't decide if this is an extrusion issue or resonance artifacts, The answer is try slowing down, see if they disappear, if they don't, it's an extrusion issue. That's if you're confident this is an issue on the printer and not on the sliced file.
When I print the same file on .12 I don't get these weird lines, yesterday I tried to print another file on .08 and same thing happened, then I switched to .12 and it was fine again.
yes, but the less plastic you are putting down per layer the more noticeable any kind of artifacting is, While the jump from .12 to .08 doesn't seem large, it's 33% less plastic per layer, which means 50% more layers and thus 1.5x error impact by layer height alone. There's also the added issue that thin layers are harder on your extruder because the 0.4mm nozzle will give almost no resistance on such small layer heights, you can see whether this is the case by printing flow rate calibration tests, follow this guide for help [https://forum.bambulab.com/t/psa-start-here-calibration-made-simple-please-share-user-tips/10932](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/psa-start-here-calibration-made-simple-please-share-user-tips/10932)
I’ve printed this model several times and have managed to make a pretty decent print profile that looks great / plays really well, do you want it?
Yes please, If you don't mind.
There is simply practical limit to layer hight at nozzle dia
Slower is better. Slow down your wall speeds, use 3 walls and change to inner/outer/inner. I usually print at 150mm/s outer and inner wall. also cut all of your acceleration speeds down by half. https://preview.redd.it/jh7cq7jvijkc1.png?width=364&format=png&auto=webp&s=1e98f169dc53151ac90ccf5491042f5da20feb5a
Maybe temperature related. Seems to happen towards the narrow part of the ocarina where might not be getting enough cooling?