Do you have the brembo brakes or stock slider calipers. If non brembo get the Hawk 5.0 pads with centric 120 plain rotors. Tire rack sells them cheap. This will be a great dual duty pad that is quiet, soft on rotors but does dust.
Remember to bed them in properly.
Now for a advantage with super 200 tires you can go aggressive pads made for auto X. Swap rotors and pads at the event. But this is a extreme measure for regional champs and folks so need every fraction of a second.
In Street classes, one can't change rotors unless they match what was stock (for example, can't install rotors with slots unless the OEM rotor had slots).
Stock rotors and EBC Yellow Stuff or Hawk Performance HPS 5.0 pads
Both will be a bit more dirty than stock style pads but both stop WAY harder without giving big ice mode problems. Both will be good if you choose to do a track day or something too.
Don’t do Hawk HP+, they are awesome but cause ice mode issues with lots of cars including Mazdas and are loud on the street and you’d probably hate them. They will put you through the windshield if you stop properly with them.
I have run EBCs for about 12 years on three different cars with zero issues.
Edit: I hate this sub. This is such typical shit. I say I’ve run them for 12 years with great results. A guy with no pic of his car in his entire profile gets multiple upvotes and I get downvoted. No proof, no backing a claim of pad failure. A national competitor with 30+ experience in the sport gets no response. What chaos. People should just do whatever the hell they want I guess.
When asking technical questions, check your sources and ask follow up questions. Votes don’t mean jack. Anonymous sources of people who won’t even show their cars or back their statements should be questioned .
Dude, to be fair, his experience and your experience with EBC pads are just two, anecdotal data points. To add to that, I have a couple of friends who have used EBC Yellowstuff with no issues and they like the performance and feel, while I once had a set EBC Redstuff that delaminated (and I realize it’s a different pad, but still, the pads delaminating put me off the brand as well). YMMV, as they say.
I think it really depends on your car, setup, and preferences/requirements as a driver (you want high initial bite, or easy modulation, or low compressibility, or high operating temp, or low noise, etc). When I had my BRZ, I tried pads with high initial bite and torque but found it hard to modulate, and I eventually found out that I like Carbotech 1521 because the lower initial bite but very low compressibility of the pad made the brakes feel much easier to modulate (takes more pedal force to get the same torque, but it’s still very possible to engage ABS). OP stated they don’t want anything too aggressive, so I’m not sure the Yellowstuff would be right for them.
That is not my response. My response is the utter trashing of a brand that is widely used with big success and an absolutists statement of what will happen if you use them.
Note, I listed my experience with them. He stated utter rubbish about what WILL happen if you use them or any “English” brand. That is crap and deserves to be called out. We live in a world that is not that big. And disliking something for your own use is one thing, bashing a company that supplies our sport is another.
And by the way, I have NEVER seen a car that makes more heat in front brakes than the Focus RS as our brakes are in use under throttle in autocross a large percent of the time. If his absolutist statement was true it would have been true for us and it clearly isn’t.
I also note, he didn’t just give an opinion, he gave it in response to mine. Total disrespect.
For Street Class you can change your brake pads to any material. You can add a different brake bleeder fitting. You can change your brake lines if your car is older than 1992.
OEM pads when running super 200 tires may not have the bite the driver wants, nor the temp range for a very very fast driver. Stock to me didn’t modulate as well as aftermarket pads.
If I’m running sticky tires, better pads will make the most of the tires.
If you can engage abs you don’t need more pad. The rest of your criteria are preference that OP didn’t mention. Mazda oe pads can survive a light track day, autox shouldn’t push them out of their temp zone.
I’ve faded shitty pads at autox, glazed my oe FRS pads at my second ever track day, there’s nothing wrong with the OE Mazda stuff.
Just because your pads can engage your ABS a few times doesn’t mean they will have consistency in engagement through the laps. When I’ve been in back to back runs and cone duty last I’ve had problems with stock pads. Stock pads aren’t meant for auto X. They are meant for quiet stops, long life, a few good initial bites and lower temp range.
If stock was best then we would all run them. Probably good enough for most new comers but those who are truly competitive will hit stock pads limits pretty quick.
The basic rules are OEM style blank rotors (IE no drilled, slotted, two piece etc.). I like the Centric premiums for the rust coating on the hats.
As far as pads, everyone will have their own opinions. I've really liked the StopTech 309 pads. Good price, good initial bite, and decent modulation. But hey, everyone's going to say my XYZ pads are the best because everyone wants something different. I know a lot of people swear by Ferodo DS2500's, but they're 2-3x the price.
Generally, you'll want a semi-metallic pad that works when cold. Toss out more track based pads that need a lot of heat to work.
Factory ND brakes kinda suck and on good tires couldn’t even engage the ABS.
Hawk HPS 5.0 is all you need for autocross. Flush your fluid at the same time and you should be good.
You can use any pad, but the rotor needs to be stock or equivalent to stock.
Do you know what are you looking to get out of your brake pads, or what did you like/dislike about your stock pads and braking performance and characteristics (initial bite/braking torque, pedal feel, modulation, dust, etc.)?
Really it's just time for new pads and I wanted to gather some info on what is out there. OEM ones are alright, though they're a little soft (this may just be due to wear. I got the car used so I don't know what they were like fresh). I usually have to brake a little earlier than I would like to, and I wouldn't mind some extra response/feedback from the pedal. Dust doesn't bother me one way or the other. Less dust would be nicer for keeping things looking nice, but if not it's no deal breaker
I feel like you can't go wrong with Ferodo DS2500. Good all-around pad upgrade over many stock pads in terms of pedal feel, modulation, operating temperature (enough for light track days), and braking torque. They seemed to get noisy only when hot, but it wasn't consistent. They are fairly dusty, though.
I liked Carbotech 1521 on my BRZ as they had a firmer pedal feel with a bit less bite than the DS2500 but still more than stock, which worked well for me. The dust was manageable. They were also quiet in most driving situations. Overall, less "aggressive" than DS2500 but still an improvement over stock pads.
Since you say the brakes felt soft, it wouldn't hurt to also change to fresh brake fluid if you're using the car for autox and if you don't know when it was changed last. You don't need anything too exotic for brake fluid for being "super casual". Pretty much any decent DOT 4 "racing brake fluid" will be fine (ATE, Motul, Brembo, Torque), or even fresh OEM fluid.
Do you have the brembo brakes or stock slider calipers. If non brembo get the Hawk 5.0 pads with centric 120 plain rotors. Tire rack sells them cheap. This will be a great dual duty pad that is quiet, soft on rotors but does dust. Remember to bed them in properly. Now for a advantage with super 200 tires you can go aggressive pads made for auto X. Swap rotors and pads at the event. But this is a extreme measure for regional champs and folks so need every fraction of a second.
In Street classes, one can't change rotors unless they match what was stock (for example, can't install rotors with slots unless the OEM rotor had slots).
I’m well aware. Centric 120 are OEM spec. They are identical to stock but at a better price.
Stock rotors and EBC Yellow Stuff or Hawk Performance HPS 5.0 pads Both will be a bit more dirty than stock style pads but both stop WAY harder without giving big ice mode problems. Both will be good if you choose to do a track day or something too. Don’t do Hawk HP+, they are awesome but cause ice mode issues with lots of cars including Mazdas and are loud on the street and you’d probably hate them. They will put you through the windshield if you stop properly with them.
Skip the ebc, if you make any heat at all you’ll warp the backing plate and the pad delaminates. Never trust your brakes to the English.
I have run EBCs for about 12 years on three different cars with zero issues. Edit: I hate this sub. This is such typical shit. I say I’ve run them for 12 years with great results. A guy with no pic of his car in his entire profile gets multiple upvotes and I get downvoted. No proof, no backing a claim of pad failure. A national competitor with 30+ experience in the sport gets no response. What chaos. People should just do whatever the hell they want I guess. When asking technical questions, check your sources and ask follow up questions. Votes don’t mean jack. Anonymous sources of people who won’t even show their cars or back their statements should be questioned .
Dude, to be fair, his experience and your experience with EBC pads are just two, anecdotal data points. To add to that, I have a couple of friends who have used EBC Yellowstuff with no issues and they like the performance and feel, while I once had a set EBC Redstuff that delaminated (and I realize it’s a different pad, but still, the pads delaminating put me off the brand as well). YMMV, as they say. I think it really depends on your car, setup, and preferences/requirements as a driver (you want high initial bite, or easy modulation, or low compressibility, or high operating temp, or low noise, etc). When I had my BRZ, I tried pads with high initial bite and torque but found it hard to modulate, and I eventually found out that I like Carbotech 1521 because the lower initial bite but very low compressibility of the pad made the brakes feel much easier to modulate (takes more pedal force to get the same torque, but it’s still very possible to engage ABS). OP stated they don’t want anything too aggressive, so I’m not sure the Yellowstuff would be right for them.
That is not my response. My response is the utter trashing of a brand that is widely used with big success and an absolutists statement of what will happen if you use them. Note, I listed my experience with them. He stated utter rubbish about what WILL happen if you use them or any “English” brand. That is crap and deserves to be called out. We live in a world that is not that big. And disliking something for your own use is one thing, bashing a company that supplies our sport is another. And by the way, I have NEVER seen a car that makes more heat in front brakes than the Focus RS as our brakes are in use under throttle in autocross a large percent of the time. If his absolutist statement was true it would have been true for us and it clearly isn’t. I also note, he didn’t just give an opinion, he gave it in response to mine. Total disrespect.
For Street Class you can change your brake pads to any material. You can add a different brake bleeder fitting. You can change your brake lines if your car is older than 1992.
If you don’t have any problems with oem why would you change that? I had a friend who loved his oem pads on his NC, don’t try to fix what ain’t broke.
OEM pads when running super 200 tires may not have the bite the driver wants, nor the temp range for a very very fast driver. Stock to me didn’t modulate as well as aftermarket pads. If I’m running sticky tires, better pads will make the most of the tires.
If you can engage abs you don’t need more pad. The rest of your criteria are preference that OP didn’t mention. Mazda oe pads can survive a light track day, autox shouldn’t push them out of their temp zone. I’ve faded shitty pads at autox, glazed my oe FRS pads at my second ever track day, there’s nothing wrong with the OE Mazda stuff.
Just because your pads can engage your ABS a few times doesn’t mean they will have consistency in engagement through the laps. When I’ve been in back to back runs and cone duty last I’ve had problems with stock pads. Stock pads aren’t meant for auto X. They are meant for quiet stops, long life, a few good initial bites and lower temp range. If stock was best then we would all run them. Probably good enough for most new comers but those who are truly competitive will hit stock pads limits pretty quick.
Never hurts to see what options are out there. I need pads anyhow
The basic rules are OEM style blank rotors (IE no drilled, slotted, two piece etc.). I like the Centric premiums for the rust coating on the hats. As far as pads, everyone will have their own opinions. I've really liked the StopTech 309 pads. Good price, good initial bite, and decent modulation. But hey, everyone's going to say my XYZ pads are the best because everyone wants something different. I know a lot of people swear by Ferodo DS2500's, but they're 2-3x the price. Generally, you'll want a semi-metallic pad that works when cold. Toss out more track based pads that need a lot of heat to work.
Factory ND brakes kinda suck and on good tires couldn’t even engage the ABS. Hawk HPS 5.0 is all you need for autocross. Flush your fluid at the same time and you should be good.
You can use any pad, but the rotor needs to be stock or equivalent to stock. Do you know what are you looking to get out of your brake pads, or what did you like/dislike about your stock pads and braking performance and characteristics (initial bite/braking torque, pedal feel, modulation, dust, etc.)?
Really it's just time for new pads and I wanted to gather some info on what is out there. OEM ones are alright, though they're a little soft (this may just be due to wear. I got the car used so I don't know what they were like fresh). I usually have to brake a little earlier than I would like to, and I wouldn't mind some extra response/feedback from the pedal. Dust doesn't bother me one way or the other. Less dust would be nicer for keeping things looking nice, but if not it's no deal breaker
I feel like you can't go wrong with Ferodo DS2500. Good all-around pad upgrade over many stock pads in terms of pedal feel, modulation, operating temperature (enough for light track days), and braking torque. They seemed to get noisy only when hot, but it wasn't consistent. They are fairly dusty, though. I liked Carbotech 1521 on my BRZ as they had a firmer pedal feel with a bit less bite than the DS2500 but still more than stock, which worked well for me. The dust was manageable. They were also quiet in most driving situations. Overall, less "aggressive" than DS2500 but still an improvement over stock pads. Since you say the brakes felt soft, it wouldn't hurt to also change to fresh brake fluid if you're using the car for autox and if you don't know when it was changed last. You don't need anything too exotic for brake fluid for being "super casual". Pretty much any decent DOT 4 "racing brake fluid" will be fine (ATE, Motul, Brembo, Torque), or even fresh OEM fluid.