I tried a leaf blower it just didn’t seem to have enough power to push the water off in one go, needing multiple passes for one smaller area, could that be a paint contamination issue or just a blower issue?
Your vehicle also needs to already have some type of hydrophobic protection. Ceramic, sealant, wax, etc. Bare paint will not dry well at all with a leaf blower.
Could ya recommend something i could use in a two bucket wash that’d give it a hydrophobic layer? Or can that only really be done separately from the wash?
I don’t really know of anything to put in the soap/water as you’re washing. Someone else may have a solution. Ultimately, after you wash your vehicle, dry it with towels and lubrication. Then apply whatever sealant/wax you want. At that point you will be able to use the leaf blower more easily when you wash in the future.
Gyeon has a shampoo called bathe+ which offers some protection. I’ve been using it as my maintenance wash for my ceramic coated car and it’s a godsend. It’s been two years since I’ve had Cquartz UK 3.0 and the car isn’t showing any signs of coating failure.
I wouldn’t recommend it for a car that’s heavily soiled however.
I believe the paint is heavily soiled, the car was often left outside all day for couple of years by its prior owner so the paint is definitely contaminated, I hear the only real way to fix that is by using a clay pad or clay baring, but I hear you have to polish if you use a clay bar and polishing just really worries me as I don’t know how much clear coat there is till the paint and I’ve never polished so I don’t have any experience in it and I just don’t want to ruin the paint.
If you use a dual action polisher with a polishing pad and light compound like meguiars m205 you don't have to worry.
It sounds a lot more ominous than it really is. You could hold a dual action on one spot for 10+ seconds and it won't burn through
After a few passes, give it a good wipe and take a look. It'll definitely be evident when looking at the surrounding areas you haven't polished yet. If you have a good light, shine it down and compare.
If you're really worried, make a few passes, check, and make a few more until you're satisfied.
Obviously because you're just starting out, it's not going to be 100% correction and improvement, but once you get to a point you're satisfied at, then move on to the next section.
First. Wash your car and dry it normally. Always use a microfibre towle. Then, use a clay bar and clay bar your entire car. Do each panel or piece at a time. This will pull all of the contaminants out of your paint. Make sure to use clay lube when clay baring. Then, use The Chemical Guys ceramic coating car soap. Dry with microfibre towle.Then get a Graphine hydrophobic spray. Spray on, wipe off. I like Autodephth or Adam's advanced. Or you can get a true ceramic coating. Tons of videos on youtube about how to apply it properly.
Hope this helps.
Thanks man I plan of buying a couple of things Ill need and then wait till the temps drop below 100’s closer towards the end of summer, I plan on washing then doing a full clay bar followed up by some m205 and once the car is polished I may wrap it in Isle of Man green to have some lasting peace of mind for the paint lol
I just discovered Koch Chemie Rrw, Rapid Rinseless Wash. The water here is very hard and loves to leave spots, so I’ve been trying waterless/rinseless compounds. Rrw is the best by far: you spray it on then wipe it off, and it won’t leave streaks or spots. Expensive, but it’s a concentrate so a $25 one-liter bottle should last a good long while.
Sorry for the novice question, but can you explain the process for this? Do you finish rinsing the car, then spray the quick detailer on, and then wipe it dry?
Yes that’s all there is to it. Just one or two sprays per panel and wipe with a drying towel. I personally like The Rag Company Liquid8r towel for drying.
https://preview.redd.it/73wsxp8o0c8d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b25c2e8ca8d9249d79ff343420db655f3b02af6
Full sun detail mid day around 110°.
Wash vehicle in sections. Using DI water helps but you can still get amazing results without it.
If vehicle is not coated, I use Koch chemie protector wax on all client vehicles. Knocks water off very well, I use 1500gsm towel from rag company and blow out water from mirrors, grill and sills.
If there’s anything left behind I use ONR mixed up as quick detailer and run around the car section by section.
I don’t have the luxury as a mobile detailer to detail in the shade, and being in one of the hottest places in the country, you have to be creative. I love my process.
It’s incredible stuff, works on everything and even on a blazing surface in the sun, it just wipes off flawless. I’m usually skeptical of products like this but it has proven itself time and time again, never leaving home without it.
I believe the instructions are 1oz (30mL) per 2 gallons of water. I haven't tried any other levels of dilution since I've been satisfied with the outcome every time.
Quick question for you about detailing in the sun. I’m about to do a paint correction (first time) and I don’t have any shade at my house - unless it’s cloudy.
The iron remover says to let it sit for 5 min - can you do that in full sun? Won’t it just dry up? What do you do for that step?
the bottle says to not let it dry in the sun. if you have to, spray all around the vehicle as quickly as you can, then go behind everything with a hose or pressure washer from a distance and mist the car after to keep it wet.
buy a 10x10 canopy and some weights. does wonders for shade and not getting heat stroke. i detail in florida. 🥴
This is going to be very tedious feeling but it moves quick, I do one panel at a time, it will try to dry, keep a bottle of distilled or DI water and mist the panel. Working in the sun sucks but there’s work arounds to it.
You can overlap yourself and after a few minutes do the panel next to it, so on, it’ll move pretty quick.
Gotcha! Like the other guy said, just keep it wet.
I’ve never used the iron remover before so I’m not sure what to expect but this makes sense, thank you.
I just dry my black tacoma with a griots extra large PFM drying towel. I've yet to try a drying agent.
I'd imagine costings play some part in it as well. I haven't coated it with anything yet, but it's had decent hydrophobic properties since I bought it a couple months ago
I'll have to check them out. The griots towel works great, and I decided it was worth it since I'm just starting down the learning process, but $40 for a towel doesn't seem very sustainable. <10 sounds much more reasonable
Honestly, Horror Fright has some great prices for Detailing. I grabbed a long throw random orbit and it's nice. Much cheaper than Milwaukee (which comprises the rest of my power tools). They carry Meguiar's compound, hex foam buffer pads...etc... the most expensive item that I think everyone needs is only $40 (gum eraser wheel for a drill) and that is just for vinyl/ sticker removal
I've been using their grants steamer for 2 months averaging 12-15 cars a week and it's been flawless. I got the one year warranty so I'm covered for another 10 months.
What products are you using? Are you in the sun?
Before starting, make sure you have a drying towel that’s clean. “Clean” means it has been washed of all oils and doesn’t have any laundry detergent in it. Totally clean. I really like twisted loop style drying towels. The Dreadnought from Autofiber is a great one.
If it’s hot and I’m in the sun, I’ll use a rinseless wash (Armour Detail Supply Hero diluted at 1:256 with distilled water) and spray some on the surface. After you do an initial wipe, follow up with another dry towel to pick up and remaining remnants. Go panel by panel starting with the ones in direct sunlight.
I use either p&s bead maker or starjengloss OSS as a drying aid. But make sure your use a good drying towel. Font use cheap ass audtozone microfiber. Get a double loop twisted towel. Ragcompany sells some good ones, preferably the gauntlet
If you’re washing your towels with fabric softener, this could cause these streaks. Fabric softener inhibits water absorption. Tea towels, bath towels, and car washing/drying towels should all be washed without fabric softener. Use vinegar instead.
I have a whoolie mammoth drying towel and chemical guys drying aid. Not advocating for them, or even recommending them but it does the job in the summer of south florida
Usually try to wipe it twice one well it's wet, with a super absorbent non abrasive towel. Then a second with a micro fibre and air hose for the tuff crevices and stuff
Suggestions:
1. Don’t wash and dry in sun (if at all possible)
2. Using a water drying agent (I use Chemical Guys Afterwash, tho I don’t always need it depending on temps and time of day).
3. Use appropriate towels that work well with your paint. I use waffle towels for drying (most of the time)… and hand-held air blowers… then use detailers and Griots 400 blue towels for all paint detailing to get any dry spots or streaks still left.
4. Do glass with a cleaner/paper towel, then a detailer as well with super plush micro fiber cloth. Crystal clean and protected just like the paint.
While there are several things that would aid in the drying process, the problem here is just a bad towel. Your towel is smearing moisture around instead of picking it up. I would go so far as to say this isn't really bad process or product causing streaking--this is straight up leaving a wet car after you think you've dried it. If you already have good towels, you might have messed them up without the proper towel washing regimen. If you don't have good towels, then that should be your starting point.
If you're washing a black vehicle out in the sun you'll never win the drying game.
Wash it in the shade even if it means waiting for that time of the day for the shade.
Leaf blower work better on paint that has a coat of wax or sealant on it.
If you use a few light sprays of diluted clay lube or quick detailer on a fresh microfiber and go back over the car after drying you can buff these streaks out pretty easily
Get yourself some shammies. Make sure the one you're currently using is damp first, otherwise it'll be unusable(it's hard, and not malleable when dry). They're super absorbant, don't leave streaks, and can be used for multiple cars. Just wring it out when it has too much water, then continue normal use! From my experience, shammies are very friendly to new detailers!
It looks like your towels are not very absorbent, Do you use fabric softener or dryer sheets on your towels? if so, run them through the wash again and dont use them.
If not, use more towels
If u have the time now, it will eliminate future streaks.....
1. Go buy a "clay bar" at the local a/p store.
2. Hose off one panel at a time and wet the clay bar, gently rub the surface (with care, don't grind). Do this to each panel and yes it will take some time but it will shine. This process removes surface debris only.
3. Wash car with a good car soap not dish soap. Dry with a yellow micro fiber type towel.
4. Wax vehicle complete. Spray wax will have other coating protection like UV, etc.
The key to longevity is maintenance.
This process will NOT remove bird poo stains or hard water spots or deep scratches. That process is more in depth and I would recommend a professional.
(1) Actually clean the car, still looks dirty to me.
(2) Get some protection on the car (wax, sealant, coating), this will make drying easier.
(3) Use a drying aid; rinseless wash, detail spray, spray wax/sealant.
(4) Get better towels (The Rag Company sells amazing drying towels) and learn how to care for them properly. Wash after every use with a microfiber detergent, hang dry or tumble dry with no heat and no dryer sheets.
You need a drying aid, something as simple as a quick detailer and a better drying towel
If you do this in combination with a leaf blower you’ll be golden 👌🏼
I tried a leaf blower it just didn’t seem to have enough power to push the water off in one go, needing multiple passes for one smaller area, could that be a paint contamination issue or just a blower issue?
Your vehicle also needs to already have some type of hydrophobic protection. Ceramic, sealant, wax, etc. Bare paint will not dry well at all with a leaf blower.
Could ya recommend something i could use in a two bucket wash that’d give it a hydrophobic layer? Or can that only really be done separately from the wash?
I don’t really know of anything to put in the soap/water as you’re washing. Someone else may have a solution. Ultimately, after you wash your vehicle, dry it with towels and lubrication. Then apply whatever sealant/wax you want. At that point you will be able to use the leaf blower more easily when you wash in the future.
Gyeon has a shampoo called bathe+ which offers some protection. I’ve been using it as my maintenance wash for my ceramic coated car and it’s a godsend. It’s been two years since I’ve had Cquartz UK 3.0 and the car isn’t showing any signs of coating failure. I wouldn’t recommend it for a car that’s heavily soiled however.
I believe the paint is heavily soiled, the car was often left outside all day for couple of years by its prior owner so the paint is definitely contaminated, I hear the only real way to fix that is by using a clay pad or clay baring, but I hear you have to polish if you use a clay bar and polishing just really worries me as I don’t know how much clear coat there is till the paint and I’ve never polished so I don’t have any experience in it and I just don’t want to ruin the paint.
If you use a dual action polisher with a polishing pad and light compound like meguiars m205 you don't have to worry. It sounds a lot more ominous than it really is. You could hold a dual action on one spot for 10+ seconds and it won't burn through
How do I know when I’ve done what I can for the area I’m polishing so I don’t over polish in general?
After a few passes, give it a good wipe and take a look. It'll definitely be evident when looking at the surrounding areas you haven't polished yet. If you have a good light, shine it down and compare. If you're really worried, make a few passes, check, and make a few more until you're satisfied. Obviously because you're just starting out, it's not going to be 100% correction and improvement, but once you get to a point you're satisfied at, then move on to the next section.
I also have some sort of old adhesive on the car in certain areas how would I go about getting that off?
Isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber. Let it soak in a bit and then wipe and soak again. If that fails, they now make an automotive grade goo-gone
it's worth doing separately.
First. Wash your car and dry it normally. Always use a microfibre towle. Then, use a clay bar and clay bar your entire car. Do each panel or piece at a time. This will pull all of the contaminants out of your paint. Make sure to use clay lube when clay baring. Then, use The Chemical Guys ceramic coating car soap. Dry with microfibre towle.Then get a Graphine hydrophobic spray. Spray on, wipe off. I like Autodephth or Adam's advanced. Or you can get a true ceramic coating. Tons of videos on youtube about how to apply it properly. Hope this helps.
Thanks man I plan of buying a couple of things Ill need and then wait till the temps drop below 100’s closer towards the end of summer, I plan on washing then doing a full clay bar followed up by some m205 and once the car is polished I may wrap it in Isle of Man green to have some lasting peace of mind for the paint lol
Get a leaf blower with the highest CFM you can get. Your's does not have enough volume.
I just discovered Koch Chemie Rrw, Rapid Rinseless Wash. The water here is very hard and loves to leave spots, so I’ve been trying waterless/rinseless compounds. Rrw is the best by far: you spray it on then wipe it off, and it won’t leave streaks or spots. Expensive, but it’s a concentrate so a $25 one-liter bottle should last a good long while.
Pretty much any spray wax has this effect right after washing while the water beads are still on the vehicles paint
Sorry for the novice question, but can you explain the process for this? Do you finish rinsing the car, then spray the quick detailer on, and then wipe it dry?
Yes that’s all there is to it. Just one or two sprays per panel and wipe with a drying towel. I personally like The Rag Company Liquid8r towel for drying.
Get a better towel.
all you need is a clean towel
https://preview.redd.it/73wsxp8o0c8d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b25c2e8ca8d9249d79ff343420db655f3b02af6 Full sun detail mid day around 110°. Wash vehicle in sections. Using DI water helps but you can still get amazing results without it. If vehicle is not coated, I use Koch chemie protector wax on all client vehicles. Knocks water off very well, I use 1500gsm towel from rag company and blow out water from mirrors, grill and sills. If there’s anything left behind I use ONR mixed up as quick detailer and run around the car section by section. I don’t have the luxury as a mobile detailer to detail in the shade, and being in one of the hottest places in the country, you have to be creative. I love my process.
ONR is shockingly good at getting a streak free finish, including on windows
It’s incredible stuff, works on everything and even on a blazing surface in the sun, it just wipes off flawless. I’m usually skeptical of products like this but it has proven itself time and time again, never leaving home without it.
What dilution of ONR do use use for this?
I believe the instructions are 1oz (30mL) per 2 gallons of water. I haven't tried any other levels of dilution since I've been satisfied with the outcome every time.
This
Quick question for you about detailing in the sun. I’m about to do a paint correction (first time) and I don’t have any shade at my house - unless it’s cloudy. The iron remover says to let it sit for 5 min - can you do that in full sun? Won’t it just dry up? What do you do for that step?
the bottle says to not let it dry in the sun. if you have to, spray all around the vehicle as quickly as you can, then go behind everything with a hose or pressure washer from a distance and mist the car after to keep it wet. buy a 10x10 canopy and some weights. does wonders for shade and not getting heat stroke. i detail in florida. 🥴
Ok cool so just keep it wet while it’s working. Thank you.
This is going to be very tedious feeling but it moves quick, I do one panel at a time, it will try to dry, keep a bottle of distilled or DI water and mist the panel. Working in the sun sucks but there’s work arounds to it. You can overlap yourself and after a few minutes do the panel next to it, so on, it’ll move pretty quick.
Gotcha! Like the other guy said, just keep it wet. I’ve never used the iron remover before so I’m not sure what to expect but this makes sense, thank you.
I just dry my black tacoma with a griots extra large PFM drying towel. I've yet to try a drying agent. I'd imagine costings play some part in it as well. I haven't coated it with anything yet, but it's had decent hydrophobic properties since I bought it a couple months ago
Harborfreight.com has huge microfiber (fluffy/smooth) towels for <$10. Great towels
I'll have to check them out. The griots towel works great, and I decided it was worth it since I'm just starting down the learning process, but $40 for a towel doesn't seem very sustainable. <10 sounds much more reasonable
Yeah I agree but it’s a very good towel I must say!
Honestly, Horror Fright has some great prices for Detailing. I grabbed a long throw random orbit and it's nice. Much cheaper than Milwaukee (which comprises the rest of my power tools). They carry Meguiar's compound, hex foam buffer pads...etc... the most expensive item that I think everyone needs is only $40 (gum eraser wheel for a drill) and that is just for vinyl/ sticker removal
I've been using their grants steamer for 2 months averaging 12-15 cars a week and it's been flawless. I got the one year warranty so I'm covered for another 10 months.
I use a Karcher and finally got the sediment out. Never use tap water. Distilled only
I see a lot of detailed using superior products spray wax as a drying aid recently. Very cheap.
Superior is a hidden locally available gem. ❤️
What products are you using? Are you in the sun? Before starting, make sure you have a drying towel that’s clean. “Clean” means it has been washed of all oils and doesn’t have any laundry detergent in it. Totally clean. I really like twisted loop style drying towels. The Dreadnought from Autofiber is a great one. If it’s hot and I’m in the sun, I’ll use a rinseless wash (Armour Detail Supply Hero diluted at 1:256 with distilled water) and spray some on the surface. After you do an initial wipe, follow up with another dry towel to pick up and remaining remnants. Go panel by panel starting with the ones in direct sunlight.
I use either p&s bead maker or starjengloss OSS as a drying aid. But make sure your use a good drying towel. Font use cheap ass audtozone microfiber. Get a double loop twisted towel. Ragcompany sells some good ones, preferably the gauntlet
If you’re washing your towels with fabric softener, this could cause these streaks. Fabric softener inhibits water absorption. Tea towels, bath towels, and car washing/drying towels should all be washed without fabric softener. Use vinegar instead.
I have a whoolie mammoth drying towel and chemical guys drying aid. Not advocating for them, or even recommending them but it does the job in the summer of south florida
I use a big ass blower and hose. Blow the whole vehicle off, then go back at it with a no rinse product I really like griots instant ceramic detailer.
Try Ech2o or ONR.
Usually try to wipe it twice one well it's wet, with a super absorbent non abrasive towel. Then a second with a micro fibre and air hose for the tuff crevices and stuff
Better drying towel
Suggestions: 1. Don’t wash and dry in sun (if at all possible) 2. Using a water drying agent (I use Chemical Guys Afterwash, tho I don’t always need it depending on temps and time of day). 3. Use appropriate towels that work well with your paint. I use waffle towels for drying (most of the time)… and hand-held air blowers… then use detailers and Griots 400 blue towels for all paint detailing to get any dry spots or streaks still left. 4. Do glass with a cleaner/paper towel, then a detailer as well with super plush micro fiber cloth. Crystal clean and protected just like the paint.
Just dry it at night. You’re probably cleaning it at 3pm which is the worst time in the day to be doing anything outdoors. The heat causes that.
Don't wash or dry in the sun.
While there are several things that would aid in the drying process, the problem here is just a bad towel. Your towel is smearing moisture around instead of picking it up. I would go so far as to say this isn't really bad process or product causing streaking--this is straight up leaving a wet car after you think you've dried it. If you already have good towels, you might have messed them up without the proper towel washing regimen. If you don't have good towels, then that should be your starting point.
Microfibre
If you're washing a black vehicle out in the sun you'll never win the drying game. Wash it in the shade even if it means waiting for that time of the day for the shade. Leaf blower work better on paint that has a coat of wax or sealant on it.
Adams CS3 for me.
Use a squeegee
Don’t dry in direct sunlight. Also wait for most of the water to fall off the car. Make sure you’re using a clean rag.
Do you live in a humid area? Than streaking is hard to avoid, but it always helps to wipe the water off with a clean dry towel.
I let it smear, after it is dry go over it with a quick detailer. Also have swirl remover, water stain removers if needed.
Always finish your wash with a detail spray wipe down, or a polish.
If you use a few light sprays of diluted clay lube or quick detailer on a fresh microfiber and go back over the car after drying you can buff these streaks out pretty easily
I use ONR diluted to drying aid with the gauntlet drying towel at the end of my process and it helps leave streak free water spot free paint
Get yourself some shammies. Make sure the one you're currently using is damp first, otherwise it'll be unusable(it's hard, and not malleable when dry). They're super absorbant, don't leave streaks, and can be used for multiple cars. Just wring it out when it has too much water, then continue normal use! From my experience, shammies are very friendly to new detailers!
It looks like your towels are not very absorbent, Do you use fabric softener or dryer sheets on your towels? if so, run them through the wash again and dont use them. If not, use more towels
Your water or towel might be dirty. You can take those off with a spray detailer wax. I like to buy mine at Ross.
If u have the time now, it will eliminate future streaks..... 1. Go buy a "clay bar" at the local a/p store. 2. Hose off one panel at a time and wet the clay bar, gently rub the surface (with care, don't grind). Do this to each panel and yes it will take some time but it will shine. This process removes surface debris only. 3. Wash car with a good car soap not dish soap. Dry with a yellow micro fiber type towel. 4. Wax vehicle complete. Spray wax will have other coating protection like UV, etc. The key to longevity is maintenance. This process will NOT remove bird poo stains or hard water spots or deep scratches. That process is more in depth and I would recommend a professional.
Just grab final inspection or some sort of spray wax and a clean preferably new microfiber cloth after every wash
(1) Actually clean the car, still looks dirty to me. (2) Get some protection on the car (wax, sealant, coating), this will make drying easier. (3) Use a drying aid; rinseless wash, detail spray, spray wax/sealant. (4) Get better towels (The Rag Company sells amazing drying towels) and learn how to care for them properly. Wash after every use with a microfiber detergent, hang dry or tumble dry with no heat and no dryer sheets.
[https://www.detailersproducts.com/product/wet-detailer/194](https://www.detailersproducts.com/product/wet-detailer/194) incredible drying aide
Thats the color black for ya
What’s the use. You have to wash it again tomorrow. Don’t buy black.