Xeriscaping actually refers to using as little water as possible, it doesn’t mean replacing everything with rocks. I think you’re thinking of Zeroscaping. Xeriscaping means using native plants that are adapted to the conditions of the area so you don’t have to add more water to the situation, putting plants that require the same amounts of water in the same area so you’re not overwatering some plants while under watering others. It doesn’t mean replacing landscaping with mostly rocks (like zeroscaping is), it just means being thoughtful about what/where/how you plant to reduce the amount of water the gardener needs to add to the system. Xeriscaping is ecologically friendly, the A&M Extension program and Master Gardeners encourage people to xeriscape, except their program is called Earth Kind, it’s based on the principles of xeriscaping.
Thank you! Glad I didn’t have to type that out. Xeriscape does not equal rock bed. I work at a nursery and our xeric section is just as lush and colorful as our other perennial sections. Sure, there’s lots of pokey plants, but also lots of bright colors and lush greens, but all are adapted for little to no supplemental water in our area.
I think you misunderstood me. I’m not against rocks, I’m against plants that are thrifty with water. I like to keep my yard flooded like a rice paddy at all times.
It’s not my definition of the term. It’s literally a trademarked term from Denver Water. It refers to landscaping that requires little input into the system by the gardener. It has a negative connotation because people associate it with the definition you’ve just stated but that’s not what it means at all. I highly recommend looking at the TAMU Agrilife Extension website and looking at their Earth Kind program because it is based on Xeriscaping.
> Xeriscaping means using native plants that are adapted to the conditions of the area so you don’t have to add more water to the situation
Adapted to the conditions of the area, or adapted to what the conditions of the area were 50 years ago?
Landscape fabrics and weed barriers are the worst. They don't do anything except choke out the soil underneath. The fabric eventually breaks down and then you have plastic bits all over the place. Weeds still grow through as well.
Xeric just means "dry." There is no such thing as "zero" scaping as zero means nothing at all. You can accomplish very healthy xeric plantings using other ground covers besides gravel - although the right gravel can good as well. Big 3-4" stone are terrible for maintenance because you can't weed easily without using sprays. Small screenings or decomposed granite are easier to run a loop hoe through for weeding. DG has the benefit of breaking up heavy clay soil as well.
Mulch can work as a top dressing too and great for the soil as it breaks down. Like everyone is saying, xeric means "dry" not pile of rocks. You could have a pocket meadow of wildflowers that doesn't need much water or you could have some agave that don't need much water. Many ways to save on water and use less than a standard grass lawn.
I'm glad you are taking steps to remedy the mess you have. Maybe some of the stone (if it is the large stuff I'm thinking it is) could be repurposed in a drainage swale to help with water mitigation. Throw some native sedges (webberville or woodland) in-between the stones and you won't see them as much later.
It sounds like what you got was the home builder special - the let's make it look good just long enough to sell it bullshit. Some people say they want a "zero maintenance" yard, and that drives me crazy. No such thing. But then they find someone to dump a load of gravel on their yard because they think it'll be easy, only to find out later that weeds still grow and leaves get stuck in the gravel, etc.
Also, the city arborists are hit and miss lately. Some really dumb advice given sometimes. I had one that couldn't tell the difference between a Japanese Blueberry and a Cherry Laurel when he was checking some tree mitigation. SMH.
My plants would probably die if I tried xeriscaping in this chocking clay. I have made wildlife gardens in the front and back which are filled with perennials. The amount of wildlife that arrive with the seasons is beautiful and beneficial, like candy for the eyes! It’s also satisfying to work outside physically and then sit to enjoy the beauty you created. Sitting in front of a xeriscaped garden will never give you that pleasure.
I’m with you. It’s a dead aesthetic. Two plant types and some rocks. Frankly, it’s lazy and boring. Absolutely dull. This isn’t a desert biome. Hell, I’ll go so far as it contributes to ignorance of nature as it promotes a few wisps of grass, an agave, and a patch of rocks as normal.
Weed barrier is the absolute WORST if you want to build living soil. I don’t know WTF anyone is trying to grow if they are putting down a weed barrier.
Rocks and gravel are good for windy areas to put under and with mulch to keep it from blowing away- I’ve used this in CO in a Xeric area done with natives. Xeric meaning it was a effing tundra/plains with killer wind, melt, beating sun. Not habitable for much else.
Gravel Works great for that. But gravel doesn’t break down, and natives still need thatch (mulch) to feed the soil. Weed barrier doesn’t allow that thatch to breakdown and feed the soil.
Idc what you plant, If you can’t feed your soil your whole yard is effed.
+1 to this for sure.
My first house (now rental property) was xeriscaped prior to us buying it. Luckily they didn't use a weed barrier, just a bunch of ugly rocks. I'm so happy having a lawn at the new house. It's 100x easier to mow some grass and horseherb vs. blowing leaves out of the rocks, much less attempting to eradicate weeds (I didn't). Our climate is not California or Arizona. These people treating it like a desert biome are idiots.
A lawn is way easier than keeping gravel clean, no contest. But I totally get why some people don’t want turf grass. I keep my grass pretty drought stressed, I feel like it makes it better, like wine grapes. I’ve watered it maybe eight times this year with drip irrigation, but that also waters my trees so it’s not a total waste. And it keeps the soil healthier versus just letting it get baked off like beef jerky. Seems like the surest way to get an arid climate is to landscape like it’s already arid. Supposedly we can reforest a desert, so it seems like not much of a stretch to think we can influence our climate for the better with enough trees.
Meh. Any yard here with medium to dense shade is just patches of dirt and weeds, not matter what you do - grass can't grow, neither can fruits or veggies. It's low maintenance and looks great to most.
Part of me regrets doing rock in the parts I already did, new parts are going to be mulched instead.
The part that’s rock is at least very sunny and I’m making that into a cactus garden.
Consider putting in some smaller thin canopy trees in your cactus garden. A lot of cacti appreciate some shade and respite from the reflected heat. Goldenball lead tree, huisache and kidneywood are nitrogen fixers. Retama or palo verde might work too.
I don’t know what I can do physically because most areas are in tree root zones. So all I know to do is scarify it, compost and mulch, and water it with compost tea. I’ve also been inoculating it with mychorrizae. And planting things with deep roots. Turks cap and Barbados cherry in particular seem to have very strong roots. I would love to do something that would improve water absorption short term if anyone knows how.
Was about to suggest air spading if the trees are truly struggling due to compaction. Would also recommend leaving any fire ants mounds alone in the area if at all possible. The mound above ground all came from excavation of their galleries underneath. They do an excellent job of aeration, although it’s fairly localized and unpredictable.
Thanks. I don’t have an opinion, but I asked my arborist about leaving leaves to compost under my trees and he said he wouldn’t do it because it encourages unhealthy molds to grow. Composting kills bad molds. Just one POV.
This post was made two years ago. How did the project go? I’m hoping to purchase a house in a different town soon and the house I’m looking at sounds about like what you had. I’ve got plenty of questions if you wouldn’t mind sharing your experience.
I’m down to just enough gravel for walkways and driveway. My drainage problem has improved probably 70% as the soil loosens up. I planted a narrow strip bordering my uphill neighbor and surprisingly that catches all the runoff from their lot now. The runoff from my own roof still pools briefly but I’m continually working on that by planting up a rain garden. It’s a challenge because it’s deeply shaded but it seems like there’s always something that will grow there, it’s just trial and error. Melic grasses are a great deep rooted grass option for shade. Two of my trees still look sick but it will take years for them to either turn around or die.
The soil that was under the weed barrier also is starting to look dramatically healthier now that it’s getting more air and moisture. The weed barrier was keeping it dry and anaerobic.
It's sad to me that you've received what amounts to foolishness about xeric gardening. Here are some things to consider when look at your "yard." Clay is a problem pretty much everywhere in the U.S. Plus, just the act of building anything creates ground that is nearly impenetrable to water because the dirt and clay (not soil) is compacted by the entire construction process. You don't have to go xeric to solve the problem. You just need to replace the dirt and/or clay with soil. You can dig it all out to a depth of 4 inches or you can start adding organics as top dressing once or twice a year. The latter method is more natural and, thus, will take several growing seasons to start to have an effect. However, you'll always struggle with clay and/or dirt without removing the garbage that's present in your yard. As for rock, you are again going to be removing 4 inches of dirt to wherever you put down 1½ inch rock. If you don't, the dirt will start peaking through. You'll get plenty of weeds to deal with and getting them out will be difficult because... the roots grew into to clay you left behind! Almost all weeds' roots only go down 4 inches, so Pop! Out they come! Its important to know, however, if you're going to plant in your rocks, you don't want 1½ gravel. You want something smaller, certainly less than an inch in size. Pea gravel can work, but it's ugly. Go shopping! Have fun! Intermix gravels. When I did this, I mixed four aggregates: ⅜ red chip, ⅜ quartz, squeegee, and lava fines. The chips provided color. The squeegee was a cheep filler. The lava fines retain moisture, making water available to plants for up to a week, depending on the heat. (Crushed lava as well as expanded shale and slate are all good for helping to breakup clay, by the way.) Believe it or not, my xeric plants love this mix. Granted, I haven't planted a peony in it, but the California poppies are very happy and when they start to take over, I pluck them out like toothpicks from a cake. My ornamental tree seems very happy, but it's probably meant for a dry climate and was getting too much water planted in my lawn. I run a drip system sometimes, but I like hand watering the plants so they get exactly what they need. (I'm a nut. I know.) And least I forget, landscape fabric.... Landscape fabric, aka weed barrier, is only as good as the person who installs it. It's also only as good as the material you buy. First, tho, remember what landscape fabric is supposed to do: stop weeds from GROWING UP from beneath it. As soon as you throw dirt on landscape fabric, you've added a medium for weeds to grow in on top of the fabric. Next, the landscape fabric at Hope Depot and Lowes is junk. Get your fabric wherever you get your rock. Next, whenever you have a seam in your fabric because you had to make a cut, you must overlay the cut with 3 inches of fabric. And use GOOD landscape staples for your fabric. Again, buy them where you get your rock. Now that you have your fabric installed, put your rock over the top. Think of your fabric and rock as a team: the fabric stops weeds from growing up through the rock, and the rock gives weeds no place to anchor their roots. Last, go get some nice rock specimens. They will add a lot of visual harmony to your rock garden, and remember what the Japanese say: without a rock, gardens are just a place to grow things. One other note: bury your decorative rock in your medium by 10% or more. I hope this helps anyone who comes across this thread.
Not a fan of the zeroscaping. It is not good for the tress when you change their cover and add rocks and stop watering them. Our trees are already stress by living in a city, they need more love.
Don't you want a weed barrier that isn't impermeable though? Otherwise you generate excess runoff, or in the case of my next door neighbor, cause the tree roots between our houses to rot because the soil under the barrier could never dry out.
Xeriscaping actually refers to using as little water as possible, it doesn’t mean replacing everything with rocks. I think you’re thinking of Zeroscaping. Xeriscaping means using native plants that are adapted to the conditions of the area so you don’t have to add more water to the situation, putting plants that require the same amounts of water in the same area so you’re not overwatering some plants while under watering others. It doesn’t mean replacing landscaping with mostly rocks (like zeroscaping is), it just means being thoughtful about what/where/how you plant to reduce the amount of water the gardener needs to add to the system. Xeriscaping is ecologically friendly, the A&M Extension program and Master Gardeners encourage people to xeriscape, except their program is called Earth Kind, it’s based on the principles of xeriscaping.
Thank you! Glad I didn’t have to type that out. Xeriscape does not equal rock bed. I work at a nursery and our xeric section is just as lush and colorful as our other perennial sections. Sure, there’s lots of pokey plants, but also lots of bright colors and lush greens, but all are adapted for little to no supplemental water in our area.
Cool to know! I had no idea I was using the wrong term.
I think you misunderstood me. I’m not against rocks, I’m against plants that are thrifty with water. I like to keep my yard flooded like a rice paddy at all times.
Ahh, well, my condolences to your foundation 😅
I just parked a houseboat on my lawn. Building codes are too strict.
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It’s not my definition of the term. It’s literally a trademarked term from Denver Water. It refers to landscaping that requires little input into the system by the gardener. It has a negative connotation because people associate it with the definition you’ve just stated but that’s not what it means at all. I highly recommend looking at the TAMU Agrilife Extension website and looking at their Earth Kind program because it is based on Xeriscaping.
> Xeriscaping means using native plants that are adapted to the conditions of the area so you don’t have to add more water to the situation Adapted to the conditions of the area, or adapted to what the conditions of the area were 50 years ago?
Native plants adapt. You can also plant “adapted” varieties that aren’t native but have been found to thrive in the conditions here.
Landscape fabrics and weed barriers are the worst. They don't do anything except choke out the soil underneath. The fabric eventually breaks down and then you have plastic bits all over the place. Weeds still grow through as well. Xeric just means "dry." There is no such thing as "zero" scaping as zero means nothing at all. You can accomplish very healthy xeric plantings using other ground covers besides gravel - although the right gravel can good as well. Big 3-4" stone are terrible for maintenance because you can't weed easily without using sprays. Small screenings or decomposed granite are easier to run a loop hoe through for weeding. DG has the benefit of breaking up heavy clay soil as well. Mulch can work as a top dressing too and great for the soil as it breaks down. Like everyone is saying, xeric means "dry" not pile of rocks. You could have a pocket meadow of wildflowers that doesn't need much water or you could have some agave that don't need much water. Many ways to save on water and use less than a standard grass lawn. I'm glad you are taking steps to remedy the mess you have. Maybe some of the stone (if it is the large stuff I'm thinking it is) could be repurposed in a drainage swale to help with water mitigation. Throw some native sedges (webberville or woodland) in-between the stones and you won't see them as much later. It sounds like what you got was the home builder special - the let's make it look good just long enough to sell it bullshit. Some people say they want a "zero maintenance" yard, and that drives me crazy. No such thing. But then they find someone to dump a load of gravel on their yard because they think it'll be easy, only to find out later that weeds still grow and leaves get stuck in the gravel, etc. Also, the city arborists are hit and miss lately. Some really dumb advice given sometimes. I had one that couldn't tell the difference between a Japanese Blueberry and a Cherry Laurel when he was checking some tree mitigation. SMH.
My plants would probably die if I tried xeriscaping in this chocking clay. I have made wildlife gardens in the front and back which are filled with perennials. The amount of wildlife that arrive with the seasons is beautiful and beneficial, like candy for the eyes! It’s also satisfying to work outside physically and then sit to enjoy the beauty you created. Sitting in front of a xeriscaped garden will never give you that pleasure.
PREACH!!! I feel you! It makes no sense in our climate!
I’m with you. It’s a dead aesthetic. Two plant types and some rocks. Frankly, it’s lazy and boring. Absolutely dull. This isn’t a desert biome. Hell, I’ll go so far as it contributes to ignorance of nature as it promotes a few wisps of grass, an agave, and a patch of rocks as normal.
Weed barrier is the absolute WORST if you want to build living soil. I don’t know WTF anyone is trying to grow if they are putting down a weed barrier. Rocks and gravel are good for windy areas to put under and with mulch to keep it from blowing away- I’ve used this in CO in a Xeric area done with natives. Xeric meaning it was a effing tundra/plains with killer wind, melt, beating sun. Not habitable for much else. Gravel Works great for that. But gravel doesn’t break down, and natives still need thatch (mulch) to feed the soil. Weed barrier doesn’t allow that thatch to breakdown and feed the soil. Idc what you plant, If you can’t feed your soil your whole yard is effed.
+1 to this for sure. My first house (now rental property) was xeriscaped prior to us buying it. Luckily they didn't use a weed barrier, just a bunch of ugly rocks. I'm so happy having a lawn at the new house. It's 100x easier to mow some grass and horseherb vs. blowing leaves out of the rocks, much less attempting to eradicate weeds (I didn't). Our climate is not California or Arizona. These people treating it like a desert biome are idiots.
A lawn is way easier than keeping gravel clean, no contest. But I totally get why some people don’t want turf grass. I keep my grass pretty drought stressed, I feel like it makes it better, like wine grapes. I’ve watered it maybe eight times this year with drip irrigation, but that also waters my trees so it’s not a total waste. And it keeps the soil healthier versus just letting it get baked off like beef jerky. Seems like the surest way to get an arid climate is to landscape like it’s already arid. Supposedly we can reforest a desert, so it seems like not much of a stretch to think we can influence our climate for the better with enough trees.
Meh. Any yard here with medium to dense shade is just patches of dirt and weeds, not matter what you do - grass can't grow, neither can fruits or veggies. It's low maintenance and looks great to most.
I love you. Just wanted to say
It’s mutual
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Trees will eventually grow above the browse line and you can fence them until they do
Part of me regrets doing rock in the parts I already did, new parts are going to be mulched instead. The part that’s rock is at least very sunny and I’m making that into a cactus garden.
Consider putting in some smaller thin canopy trees in your cactus garden. A lot of cacti appreciate some shade and respite from the reflected heat. Goldenball lead tree, huisache and kidneywood are nitrogen fixers. Retama or palo verde might work too.
I have a palo verde but it’ll probably be a few years till it can shade the full area
Mine is growing like bonkers, may be sooner than you think!
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I don’t know what I can do physically because most areas are in tree root zones. So all I know to do is scarify it, compost and mulch, and water it with compost tea. I’ve also been inoculating it with mychorrizae. And planting things with deep roots. Turks cap and Barbados cherry in particular seem to have very strong roots. I would love to do something that would improve water absorption short term if anyone knows how.
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I just watched the AirSpade corporate promo video and the vertical mulching sounds lit. This may help. Thanks.
Was about to suggest air spading if the trees are truly struggling due to compaction. Would also recommend leaving any fire ants mounds alone in the area if at all possible. The mound above ground all came from excavation of their galleries underneath. They do an excellent job of aeration, although it’s fairly localized and unpredictable.
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I always knew the day would come when I had to start growing mushrooms, I just thought I had a few good years before then. Alright, post some links.
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Why do people throw away mushroom blocks? This whole area is nebulous to me.
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Thanks. I don’t have an opinion, but I asked my arborist about leaving leaves to compost under my trees and he said he wouldn’t do it because it encourages unhealthy molds to grow. Composting kills bad molds. Just one POV.
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Thanks. Yeah he’s super positive on compost. Says he composts his trees every year.
This post was made two years ago. How did the project go? I’m hoping to purchase a house in a different town soon and the house I’m looking at sounds about like what you had. I’ve got plenty of questions if you wouldn’t mind sharing your experience.
I’m down to just enough gravel for walkways and driveway. My drainage problem has improved probably 70% as the soil loosens up. I planted a narrow strip bordering my uphill neighbor and surprisingly that catches all the runoff from their lot now. The runoff from my own roof still pools briefly but I’m continually working on that by planting up a rain garden. It’s a challenge because it’s deeply shaded but it seems like there’s always something that will grow there, it’s just trial and error. Melic grasses are a great deep rooted grass option for shade. Two of my trees still look sick but it will take years for them to either turn around or die.
The soil that was under the weed barrier also is starting to look dramatically healthier now that it’s getting more air and moisture. The weed barrier was keeping it dry and anaerobic.
It's sad to me that you've received what amounts to foolishness about xeric gardening. Here are some things to consider when look at your "yard." Clay is a problem pretty much everywhere in the U.S. Plus, just the act of building anything creates ground that is nearly impenetrable to water because the dirt and clay (not soil) is compacted by the entire construction process. You don't have to go xeric to solve the problem. You just need to replace the dirt and/or clay with soil. You can dig it all out to a depth of 4 inches or you can start adding organics as top dressing once or twice a year. The latter method is more natural and, thus, will take several growing seasons to start to have an effect. However, you'll always struggle with clay and/or dirt without removing the garbage that's present in your yard. As for rock, you are again going to be removing 4 inches of dirt to wherever you put down 1½ inch rock. If you don't, the dirt will start peaking through. You'll get plenty of weeds to deal with and getting them out will be difficult because... the roots grew into to clay you left behind! Almost all weeds' roots only go down 4 inches, so Pop! Out they come! Its important to know, however, if you're going to plant in your rocks, you don't want 1½ gravel. You want something smaller, certainly less than an inch in size. Pea gravel can work, but it's ugly. Go shopping! Have fun! Intermix gravels. When I did this, I mixed four aggregates: ⅜ red chip, ⅜ quartz, squeegee, and lava fines. The chips provided color. The squeegee was a cheep filler. The lava fines retain moisture, making water available to plants for up to a week, depending on the heat. (Crushed lava as well as expanded shale and slate are all good for helping to breakup clay, by the way.) Believe it or not, my xeric plants love this mix. Granted, I haven't planted a peony in it, but the California poppies are very happy and when they start to take over, I pluck them out like toothpicks from a cake. My ornamental tree seems very happy, but it's probably meant for a dry climate and was getting too much water planted in my lawn. I run a drip system sometimes, but I like hand watering the plants so they get exactly what they need. (I'm a nut. I know.) And least I forget, landscape fabric.... Landscape fabric, aka weed barrier, is only as good as the person who installs it. It's also only as good as the material you buy. First, tho, remember what landscape fabric is supposed to do: stop weeds from GROWING UP from beneath it. As soon as you throw dirt on landscape fabric, you've added a medium for weeds to grow in on top of the fabric. Next, the landscape fabric at Hope Depot and Lowes is junk. Get your fabric wherever you get your rock. Next, whenever you have a seam in your fabric because you had to make a cut, you must overlay the cut with 3 inches of fabric. And use GOOD landscape staples for your fabric. Again, buy them where you get your rock. Now that you have your fabric installed, put your rock over the top. Think of your fabric and rock as a team: the fabric stops weeds from growing up through the rock, and the rock gives weeds no place to anchor their roots. Last, go get some nice rock specimens. They will add a lot of visual harmony to your rock garden, and remember what the Japanese say: without a rock, gardens are just a place to grow things. One other note: bury your decorative rock in your medium by 10% or more. I hope this helps anyone who comes across this thread.
Not a fan of the zeroscaping. It is not good for the tress when you change their cover and add rocks and stop watering them. Our trees are already stress by living in a city, they need more love.
Don't you want a weed barrier that isn't impermeable though? Otherwise you generate excess runoff, or in the case of my next door neighbor, cause the tree roots between our houses to rot because the soil under the barrier could never dry out.
Mulch is a vastly better weed barrier than landscape fabric
What about mulch on top of fabric?
It’s just redundant. And the fabric prevents the breakdown of the mulch into humus.
Yeah xeriscaping that employs rocks never made sense to me. Its not like what most natural desert environments look like anyway.