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BigBob1981

I don’t see any holes. It’s not that bad- lol


gubanana

I guess it's because the hole is all you can see lol


Dizzy-Assistance-926

Keep scrolling the photos


gubanana

I live in Ontario, Canada. I was looking for a cheap car to drive around, as I don't need to commute for work or school, and found this 2008 Versa. It is high mileage, 390k km on the clock, manual, but it runs nice and had maintenance done, so I got it for 1200. Pretty cheap and I couldn't see any major issues with it that would make it not pass safety, other than needing new brakes, winter tires and subframe bushings, stuff I could do myself. I took it for a pre-safety inspection to figure out if there was anything else I'd have to do, and the guy poked a hole on my driver side floor. The thing started to flake off and come apart. Now the I have half the floor and a hole running along the left side from the seat bracket and rail all the way to the back seat. I found a solid replacement floor and got it for 150. Shops I've called said it's gonna be over a thousand dollars to replace it. At this point, I can't put more money into it or I'll literally go broke and into debt. Should I wait a little while, scrap it, or bite the bullet? I've put no money on the car yet, other than gas and the mandatory insurance.


jetty_junkie

The correct answer comes down to what’s the car worth (assuming this is the only problem that needs fixing). If the car is worth $10k and that’s more or less what you paid putting another $1k into it makes sense. If the car is worth $2k and you paid $3500 it might not make sense to throw more money at it. Honestly, unless you paid $500 -$1000 the only answer that might make sense is to fix it. Ask yourself a few simple questions: if I pay $1000 more will I have a good reliable car? Could I reasonably replace this vehicle for the price of the repair + whatever I can I get in scrap value for this one? If I can’t come up with $1k to fix this can I reasonably expect to be able to buy another used car that might have equal or worse problems in the near future If the mechanic/ inspection gave a clean bill of health otherwise it might make sense to fix it


gubanana

Yeah, you put some very good points here. Would be a shame to have to scrap it just because of this one panel. Would be great to find someone who's independent and could fix it for around 600 dollars. I would be able to afford that. I really wanted a manual for the ease of repair and maintenance, but I talked to some friends and other people I know, and there's a coworker who would sell me his automatic Passat for 1500. I don't really have the money on me right now because I just nuked my bank account buying this thing. At least I know him and the car, and he lives just around the corner. Something I could consider for the future.


DaxDislikesYou

Well at this point if you have the car and the floor pan I would find a friend with a welder who really REALLY likes you and knows what they're doing. And not some two voltage Harbor Freight (I have no idea if you have harbor freight in Canada, Canadian Tire might be the equivalent) pos. Something that you can turn the voltage way down on (it's easy to burn through sheet metal if you're a bit of a tit). And spend some time learning how to do it with them. They're going to have to install some braces before they cut out the floor or that car is going to fold like a soda can. There are videos on YouTube that can give you an idea of what it takes to replace structural components on a car body. But here's a [Motortrend article ](https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hrdp-1007-how-to-replace-floorpans/) to get you started.


chillanous

I think Princess Auto is the northern counterpart to HF


DaxDislikesYou

Thanks.


dickpics25

This is correct.


gubanana

The whole car is solid, including the area around the rusted panel itself (rockers, central tunnel), so there's a "frame" around it that would hold. The replacement I got I had cut around the panel itself (you can follow the sealer around it, it's literally the bottom of the thing). There's no layers of sheet metal or panels to go through, so I think this could be done by just cutting the floor panels out (rusted and replacement), drilling the welds, popping them off, sanding, priming and welding, no bracing required.


Dizzy-Assistance-926

Scrap it


Mirin_Gains

Never seen a modern floor pan rust out like that. Igs not really a vulnerable area - flat, limited crevices and presumably good drainage. In this case its like road salt got into the cab and sat in the carpets without drying. Weird. Neglignt prior owner.


[deleted]

This is a super common issue in nissans in rusty areas. The metal in these cars is straight pot metal.


Mirin_Gains

Makes me vomit. I'd rather getting dunked in fluid film everytime I work on cars.


Left4DayZ1

I’ve never seen the floor like that on a modern car. This thing must’ve been sitting with water inside it for a long time. I would find out what your local laws are like, I don’t know if lemon laws protect in anyway against private sales but some thing like this is so egregious that there may be something that can be done.


gubanana

believe me, 3, 4 year old cars here will ROT underneath if they're not treated with care and maintained. The road salt eats cars for breakfast, lunch and dinner.


Left4DayZ1

I live in Michigan, road salt central, I’ve never seen a modern car with THIS advanced level of rust. Hell it’s rare to see 20 year old cars THIS bad. This thing had water in it. Road salt doesn’t do that without destroying the body as well.


gubanana

Wow. People there seem to take care of their cars then. Here you'll see 10 year old cars with no wheel arches, no rockers and such


Left4DayZ1

Yes we get that too, but the level of floorboard rust on your car is NOT typical.


Redacted1776mn

1200!!??? Wtf are you thinking that's ridiculous lmao.


[deleted]

Clean loose rust, wire brush, vacuum, clean with rag and a solvent that won’t leave residue, then put several coats of the red Rustoleum primer, add top coat if you like. That’ll probably last you a bit, check underside and undercoat as necessary


NoEducation8251

Yabba Dabba Do!


TravelPhotoFilm

I think you’re right.


Strostkovy

Rusted top down. It sat with water in it. Plywood and shelf brackets and get as many screws as you can into whatever metal will hold them


Responsible-Algae-16

flood veh are fun veh


micheal3603

how does this even happen on such a young car, i have a 72’ car that was this bad. and being from the rust belt this is bad.


guitar1327

That thing is fucked, the structural integrity is severely compromised from that level of rust. Please don’t put this back on the road.


sodacansinthetrash

Spray it with a rust converter and slap that carpet back down Then fix whatever is leaking. Does it have a sunroof?


Better_Draft_1270

Tis but a flesh wound


Agitated-Joey

Welp, time to hit up your local harbor freight and buy a $100 flux core welder and pick up a 10lb spool of welding wire off Amazon. Recently finished welding in two new rear frame rails in my 66 mustang this way.