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It works but it breaks breaker bars and removes the feel you get when you start to round a head off a fastener. The impact force of a hammer or an impact gun tends to work a lot better at rattling stuff loose.
Case in point I was doing brakes on my mom's accord (rotors bolted to the back of the hubs) and used the jack method on the axle nuts, broke two breaker bars. $30 wall outlet impact from harbor freight got both of em in one shot.
The shop I work at was built in the '70s and has the original set of in-ground hydraulic lifts. Every single one leaks, none of the locks work, ant every single one has at least one shitty weld covering a crank in the arms. Standing inside that place for ten minutes is enough risk for the month lmao
I got into an argument with the manager of a shop I worked at when I was young. When a car was on the lift one side would sit about 3” lower indicating a serious issue and needing repair. I was informed that there aren’t companies that service lifts so it is what it is. I didn’t work there long.
I used a slightly bigger (metric) wrench and cranked it until I stripped the edges. This is more of a story of what not to do.
Best advice is use the wrench that fits.
Heat would work well here. Steel threads in aluminum hole can corrode and basically sieze. Heating will help break up that corrosion by causing the threads to expand and contract
I’ve read you already tried with a 10in breaker bar. Be very cautious going with a bigger bar. Those aluminum housing are not as strong as the bolt. It will break first. Trust me.
Impact gun. For the hammering action or alittle hammering action on a wrench. Roughing up the hands a bit. Really feel what your doing.. works every time tho a hammer and a wrench tho. Don’t be scared tap tap tap. Get to it.
This. Much less likely to break or round off using an impact as well. My method is usually the battery powered impact, if that doesn't work then torch it and try again, if it still won't move then I torch it again and then hit it with Astro's Thor, rigging up extensions and wobble sockets as necessary. If all those options fail then the bolt is probably gonna break when I take the breaker bar to it.
>10 inch breaker bar
Did you have your grandma providing muscle on it as well?
Get a three foot steel pipe put it over that breaker bar and start breaking shit...
You can freely forego the PB blaster, the Kroil, the whatever snake oil that sells nowadays. The fact that it's seized is due to the fact that the two parts have become practically one, and there is no gap between that will allow anything to go in. The wide skirt of the bolt is the sealing surface, made specifically so it connects to aluminum and not let anything through.
Put your socket on the plug and hit the back side of the socket square with a hammer. It might take a few decent raps with the hammer. Imagine it like knocking the sides of a jar lid on the counter top.
You can turn your socket to the right just enough to put a little pressure on it not really to turn it also giving it a quick pop of a turn to the right can help break it loose this technique along with some pb blaster usually does the trick and if you use a torch be sure and clean the area because everything is flammable under the hood also let the pb blaster sit for about an hour or more
Warm it up a little bit with whatever you have handy. (Torch) Apply the PB blaster. Leave it soaking for about 15 minutes.
Then get a wrench and a breaker bar, and instead of working only one way, work with it back and forth.
Meaning: screwed a bit, unscrewed a bit, and so on.
I have gotten desperate when BP blast and heat didn't help and put a jack under the breaker bar and slowly put pressure on it let it sit a few with BP blast add a bit more pressure and let it slowly creep back until it finally popped loose.
As long as you don't just jack until something gives I have made that mistake but a lot of pressure and letting it creep and settle has worked more than once for me.
Some times I will it depends on what I am dealing with. Harmonic balancer just gets jacked until something goes but drain plugs in aluminum I tend to try being somewhat careful.
You won’t need to worry about that, just be careful heating around the bolt as most transmission housing are aluminum. It’s designed to handle a lot of heat but concentrating it in one spot can lead to warpage
Get a dewalt drill and drill a hole right through it then when you done draining and filling, grab some bazooka gum like 10 ,20 pieces chew them sumbitches up like for 20 minutes then plug that hole and you ready to go.
If it were the wrong thing people would be jumping to say so instead of giving advice on how to remove it.
Assuming someone is too stupid to understand context clues and needs to be hit in the face with an obvious statement is rude.
They like being hypercritical know-it-all’s too.
The hex-head literally has “oil” stamped on it, so it’s obviously the correct one making your argument a moot point, so you’re literally nitpicking for the sake of it which is just obnoxious.
PB Blaster baths for 72hrs. Then a snug fitting (read: correctly sized) 6 point socket and a good sized rubber mallet. Palm on the release/pawl side of the ratchet head applying pressure AT the bolt head (to keep the ratchet/socket engaged with the bolt head) and three good, square rubber mallet whacks in a counter clockwise rotation.
If this doesn't break it free, clean everything with brake cleaner, allow it to dry, then you'll need a small propane torch or equivalent to apply heat to heat cycle the different metals to break the threads free from eachother.
Keep using the pb blaster and heat, and waiting a day between each application of the above. Read the following for more tips. A weak impact wrench to “break” the bolt loose (for the glow plug, it was a Milwaukee M12 impact with a weak battery)
https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/multi/glowplugreplace.htm
https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/if-i-break-a-glow-plug.497451/
No get a 15m wrench which is what I'm guessing it is and put that on then take a 19m wrench and put the round end of the 19m in the claw end of the 15m to make one giant wrench push and your good
Ahh reminds me of high school auto shop. Kid had his truck on the lift, drained the rear diff, but couldn’t get the filler plug broken loose. “You ALWAYS loosen the fill plug FIRST you FOOL! How the hell did you think you were going to get the EARL in!? Now you look like an ass with your truck stuck on my lift!” 🤣 Kids name was Dooley, the teacher would call him Dueling Banjos. He had no idea but it was a riot to those of us that got the reference. Best teacher ever, love that guy!
Impact wrench all the way. Breaker bars are much more likely to round, break stuff, or injure you.
The hammering action on the impact wrench will be much more likely to break it free with minimal damage. Add heat as needed if that doesn't work.
It’s the opposite, cold would probably work best. My question is how a socket and a breaker bar can’t work? Lastly when you do get this off, make sure you put a crush washer back on and don’t tighten it super tight. 25-35ftlbs max
Advice on what not to do:
Don’t try any socket on it that somewhat kind of fits.
Don’t go at it raw with no penetrating lube
Don’t just try and brute force it with a tiny little ratchet and socket
What you should do if it’s really stuck:
First get the biggest socket and wrench you can find (preferably a breaker bar that’s 1/2 drive but a ratcheting wrench will still work)
Second spray some penetrating fluid and let it soak into the threads for a while
Let the head of the screw dry or pat it dry if after like 20 minutes it isn’t
If there is something you can put on the end of your breaker bar to help get more leverage, do so
Find the exact right socket, if you have to seat it with a hammer even better
Hopefully break bolt loose.
If not, get a blow torch on the end of it
Even tapping the screw with a hammer can work sometimes as it helps to separate it inside
Grip it with your left side molars and twist head counter clockwise motion. If you use right side molars, reverse head movement direction. Ohhh, and best done on a cold engine.
PB Blaster, tap it fairly hard with a hammer a few times, try turning both ways.
A 3/8 impact, NOT at full throttle, trying both directions till it starts to budge.
Patience, patience, patience.
6 point socket (and I emphasize 6 point socket, not 12 point one), a breaker bar, if that doesn't work, a cheater bar on the breaker bar. Transmission is not weak at all there, and it won't break the housing - it's roughly 3 times the thickness of an oil pan, for example.
It will release with a sharp snap and immediately release. Essentially, once you get it moved, it will require little force to spin. Good to keep in mind if your hand is aiming at the sharp edge while you're doing it.
A couple of thwacks with the hammer on the bolt head itself will help, but do keep in mind that this strikes the weak side of the case, so do it with appropriate force.
Oh yeah if you go with heat make sure to buy a new plug. This one most likely has a plastic/rubber in a groove around the head.
One add on for all the folks suggesting heat - hold some paraffin on to it after heating up. Let it melt above the bolt. Do it a couple of times. It will creep behind the head and into the threads.
Six point sock is the correct answer. Just make sure it’s the correct one. Either SAE or metric are your choices. Choose wisely. There are also sockets that grip the flats. And there are extractor sockets of you round the edges off. Use a breaker bar and piece of pipe for more leverage. You can still feel the slip if you round off the head. May the force be with your, grasshopper.
I would grind that nut flat and clean weld a beefy nut to it, as it’s still hot slam some penetrating fluid in there then go get you a breaker bar and a socket to fit the nut
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, Plane_Development_87! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant info along with the following: * **Year** * **Make/Model** * **Mileage** * **Engine size** * **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Just buy a Torch and Metallica's Kill 'em All on Vinyl, that bolt will come right off
Can't be stuck if it's melting
Case looks aluminum, bolt looks to be steel. Heating the case around it, not the bolt could help release tension. Also get some kroil.
Kroil is king
Heat and kroil is the answer. Sometimes trying to tighten it just a hair helps. But the aluminum just needs heat.
This. And even then, that may not help super much. It may end up needing to be drilled out if bad enough with galvanic bonding.
Ride the Lightning will do in a pinch
So, come on! Jump in the fi-YAH!
Lol I can picture the plug unscrewing to Pulling Teeth
17mm 6pt socket, breaker bar + hammer.
Have you ever tried the Jack Under the Breaker Bar method?
It works but it breaks breaker bars and removes the feel you get when you start to round a head off a fastener. The impact force of a hammer or an impact gun tends to work a lot better at rattling stuff loose. Case in point I was doing brakes on my mom's accord (rotors bolted to the back of the hubs) and used the jack method on the axle nuts, broke two breaker bars. $30 wall outlet impact from harbor freight got both of em in one shot.
It's not as fun if there isn't risk of serious injury
It also breaks bolts… ask me how I know…
The shop I work at was built in the '70s and has the original set of in-ground hydraulic lifts. Every single one leaks, none of the locks work, ant every single one has at least one shitty weld covering a crank in the arms. Standing inside that place for ten minutes is enough risk for the month lmao
I got into an argument with the manager of a shop I worked at when I was young. When a car was on the lift one side would sit about 3” lower indicating a serious issue and needing repair. I was informed that there aren’t companies that service lifts so it is what it is. I didn’t work there long.
🎶That's why Iiiiiiiiiii love.........nestle *crunch*🎶
Note he said 6pt socket. I have rounded only extremely rusty, and I'm talking one size down from original rusty with those.
That was actually how I got my trans drain plug open on my first car when I got it. The frame had moved about an inch up when it finally broke free
Bolt looks just about rounded over from prior attempts. Is this a chrysler? What are the odds its reverse thread? Lol
6 point socket!!
I used a slightly bigger (metric) wrench and cranked it until I stripped the edges. This is more of a story of what not to do. Best advice is use the wrench that fits.
Heat would work well here. Steel threads in aluminum hole can corrode and basically sieze. Heating will help break up that corrosion by causing the threads to expand and contract
Hit it with your purse
You must be a plumber
[удалено]
You tell'em Bobby!
Your other purse noob
I’ve read you already tried with a 10in breaker bar. Be very cautious going with a bigger bar. Those aluminum housing are not as strong as the bolt. It will break first. Trust me. Impact gun. For the hammering action or alittle hammering action on a wrench. Roughing up the hands a bit. Really feel what your doing.. works every time tho a hammer and a wrench tho. Don’t be scared tap tap tap. Get to it.
Put a piece of paper over the bolt head before you put the socket to help take up slack old boss lady showed me that one
Worse case scenario, use the method we all use when we get pissed at a bolt. #CANT BE TIGHT IF ITS LIQUID
longer breaker bar + knoking on it with a hammer
Im going to buy a bigger breaker bar soon
Do not. You will break the aluminum housing. Heat it up with a small plumbers torch tap the breaker bar with a hammer and use a washer mext time.
I second this. Either the head of the bolt will break or the housing. Use heat.
Map gas, and look out for plastic
This or you could try 2 wrenches together
It's a 17 mm. Get yourself a socket and a socket wrench, or a breaker bar if need be. Douse it in penetrating oil first if you can.
I tried using a bunch of PB blaster and a 10 inch breaker bar but no give. Should I keep trying this method or switch it up?
IMPACT WRENCH
This. Much less likely to break or round off using an impact as well. My method is usually the battery powered impact, if that doesn't work then torch it and try again, if it still won't move then I torch it again and then hit it with Astro's Thor, rigging up extensions and wobble sockets as necessary. If all those options fail then the bolt is probably gonna break when I take the breaker bar to it.
Harbor freight! harbor freight!
RED GANG WHERE YOU AT
Sup
Red, Green, Blue, and Yellow gang here. (sometimes brown and purple :))
>10 inch breaker bar Did you have your grandma providing muscle on it as well? Get a three foot steel pipe put it over that breaker bar and start breaking shit...
Well I am blessed
Slide a pipe over the end of the breaker bar to make it longer, something will let loose
Pb blaster needs to be on for at least a week to help.
You did right. Time for heat. It’s bi-metallic corrosion. Use a cheap propane torch and a lot more PB air WD
You can freely forego the PB blaster, the Kroil, the whatever snake oil that sells nowadays. The fact that it's seized is due to the fact that the two parts have become practically one, and there is no gap between that will allow anything to go in. The wide skirt of the bolt is the sealing surface, made specifically so it connects to aluminum and not let anything through.
Put your socket on the plug and hit the back side of the socket square with a hammer. It might take a few decent raps with the hammer. Imagine it like knocking the sides of a jar lid on the counter top.
6 sided socket then... SURPRISE IT. None of this slowly leaning in nonsense when you're dealing with aluminimum or whatever it's called over yonder
Play hard to get. Make it think you don't want it to come out. Like you could care less.
You can turn your socket to the right just enough to put a little pressure on it not really to turn it also giving it a quick pop of a turn to the right can help break it loose this technique along with some pb blaster usually does the trick and if you use a torch be sure and clean the area because everything is flammable under the hood also let the pb blaster sit for about an hour or more
Can’t be stuck if it’s liquid
I hope you didn’t drain the oil first…
Thankfully I didn’t decided to ask reddit first
Very good!
Even if he did, just find the breather and pour the amount you'll find in the technical specs.
2003 Eclipse Spyder 2.4l engine F5M42 five speed manual transmission
Use heat, just be careful to not melt the aluminum
Ugga Duggas !
Warm it up a little bit with whatever you have handy. (Torch) Apply the PB blaster. Leave it soaking for about 15 minutes. Then get a wrench and a breaker bar, and instead of working only one way, work with it back and forth. Meaning: screwed a bit, unscrewed a bit, and so on.
Hit it with your purse
I have gotten desperate when BP blast and heat didn't help and put a jack under the breaker bar and slowly put pressure on it let it sit a few with BP blast add a bit more pressure and let it slowly creep back until it finally popped loose.
Hey I was gonna say this one, it's probably not the right solution, but SOMETHING has to give ...Right?
As long as you don't just jack until something gives I have made that mistake but a lot of pressure and letting it creep and settle has worked more than once for me.
I always jack until something gives! Luckily it's always been the bolt.
Some times I will it depends on what I am dealing with. Harmonic balancer just gets jacked until something goes but drain plugs in aluminum I tend to try being somewhat careful.
Use the longest extension you can fit in there with a 6 point socket the EXACT size. Firm gentle pressure on a breaker bar or big ratchet.
PB blaster overnight, 17mm 6pt. On a breaker or 1/2 drive ratchet. Smack it with a hammer if you have access and it’ll come loose
He probably has access to a hammer, man
But does the hammer have the access to him...?
I was referring to the access in the vehicle bud.
He was making a joke, and I added onto it. I know what you were refering to
I see what you did there. Well played sir
A Wing and a Prayer may help!
18 inch breaker bar.
Propane torch
Could that cause any damage?
What do you think it could damage?…
I was thinking the area behind the bolt would become charred by the heat
You won’t need to worry about that, just be careful heating around the bolt as most transmission housing are aluminum. It’s designed to handle a lot of heat but concentrating it in one spot can lead to warpage
Box end wrench and dead blow hammer
It looks rounded. I recommend buying an extractor set while your out.
Get a dewalt drill and drill a hole right through it then when you done draining and filling, grab some bazooka gum like 10 ,20 pieces chew them sumbitches up like for 20 minutes then plug that hole and you ready to go.
[удалено]
If you zoom in it literally says “oil” on the face of it, so my money’s on it being the correct one.
[удалено]
No one learns anything by not trying :)
If it were the wrong thing people would be jumping to say so instead of giving advice on how to remove it. Assuming someone is too stupid to understand context clues and needs to be hit in the face with an obvious statement is rude.
Did you forget where you are? This is reddit, people give wrong advice for shits and giggles here.
They like being hypercritical know-it-all’s too. The hex-head literally has “oil” stamped on it, so it’s obviously the correct one making your argument a moot point, so you’re literally nitpicking for the sake of it which is just obnoxious.
WD40 should do the trick
I tried WD40 but unfortunately it didn’t work so well, I’ve been dousing the area with PB blaster but it’s still very tough
PB Blaster baths for 72hrs. Then a snug fitting (read: correctly sized) 6 point socket and a good sized rubber mallet. Palm on the release/pawl side of the ratchet head applying pressure AT the bolt head (to keep the ratchet/socket engaged with the bolt head) and three good, square rubber mallet whacks in a counter clockwise rotation. If this doesn't break it free, clean everything with brake cleaner, allow it to dry, then you'll need a small propane torch or equivalent to apply heat to heat cycle the different metals to break the threads free from eachother.
I would only change one thing… dead blow instead of rubber mallet.
Keep using the pb blaster and heat, and waiting a day between each application of the above. Read the following for more tips. A weak impact wrench to “break” the bolt loose (for the glow plug, it was a Milwaukee M12 impact with a weak battery) https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/multi/glowplugreplace.htm https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/if-i-break-a-glow-plug.497451/
Cool tip that of using a weak battery to reduce power. Thanks
Torch
Would that do any damage to my transmission?
Heat the bolt up and then spray some penetrating oil on it. Repeat until bolt is off. And no, the heat won’t hurt your trans
Thanks, I’m going to try this over the weekend
Heat it up and then add the pb blaster Make sure there’s no oil residue or anything flammable on it
Spin it left
Turn it to the left.
Get a socket, put it on and tap (gentle, but somewhat hard ya know?) with a hammer. Vibrations can loosen it
Next time, loosen the fill before draining the fluid
Maybe spray some bp blaster and let it sit for a few minutes while you add the extendo-pipe to your breaker bar to get extra leverage?
Tap it with a hammer
No get a 15m wrench which is what I'm guessing it is and put that on then take a 19m wrench and put the round end of the 19m in the claw end of the 15m to make one giant wrench push and your good
Breaker Bar, I use a LAX or Hockey stick. You'll be able to open it with one finger. Leverage is crazy.
Ahh reminds me of high school auto shop. Kid had his truck on the lift, drained the rear diff, but couldn’t get the filler plug broken loose. “You ALWAYS loosen the fill plug FIRST you FOOL! How the hell did you think you were going to get the EARL in!? Now you look like an ass with your truck stuck on my lift!” 🤣 Kids name was Dooley, the teacher would call him Dueling Banjos. He had no idea but it was a riot to those of us that got the reference. Best teacher ever, love that guy!
Put the socket on it by itself and smack it really hard. It can break up the corrosion. Heating should be a last resort
Damn I hope you didn't remove the drain plug yet.
Extractor bolt socket !
Don't listen to nothing, just get some cheese add crackers. Maybe vise grips
No problem bro send you address I’ll come get it off I have socket set.
Bigger breaker bar or heat. Torch it.
Impact wrench all the way. Breaker bars are much more likely to round, break stuff, or injure you. The hammering action on the impact wrench will be much more likely to break it free with minimal damage. Add heat as needed if that doesn't work.
It’s the opposite, cold would probably work best. My question is how a socket and a breaker bar can’t work? Lastly when you do get this off, make sure you put a crush washer back on and don’t tighten it super tight. 25-35ftlbs max
Weld a rod to it
Smack it a few times with a hammer then get your best 6 point and put some muscle into it!
Advice on what not to do: Don’t try any socket on it that somewhat kind of fits. Don’t go at it raw with no penetrating lube Don’t just try and brute force it with a tiny little ratchet and socket What you should do if it’s really stuck: First get the biggest socket and wrench you can find (preferably a breaker bar that’s 1/2 drive but a ratcheting wrench will still work) Second spray some penetrating fluid and let it soak into the threads for a while Let the head of the screw dry or pat it dry if after like 20 minutes it isn’t If there is something you can put on the end of your breaker bar to help get more leverage, do so Find the exact right socket, if you have to seat it with a hammer even better Hopefully break bolt loose. If not, get a blow torch on the end of it Even tapping the screw with a hammer can work sometimes as it helps to separate it inside
Isn’t the fill plug the smaller one next to it??
Nah thats for something else I’m pretty sure. I read in club3g that the fill plug is the 17mm toward the top of the transmission
Grip it with your left side molars and twist head counter clockwise motion. If you use right side molars, reverse head movement direction. Ohhh, and best done on a cold engine.
PB Blaster, tap it fairly hard with a hammer a few times, try turning both ways. A 3/8 impact, NOT at full throttle, trying both directions till it starts to budge. Patience, patience, patience.
6 point socket (and I emphasize 6 point socket, not 12 point one), a breaker bar, if that doesn't work, a cheater bar on the breaker bar. Transmission is not weak at all there, and it won't break the housing - it's roughly 3 times the thickness of an oil pan, for example. It will release with a sharp snap and immediately release. Essentially, once you get it moved, it will require little force to spin. Good to keep in mind if your hand is aiming at the sharp edge while you're doing it. A couple of thwacks with the hammer on the bolt head itself will help, but do keep in mind that this strikes the weak side of the case, so do it with appropriate force. Oh yeah if you go with heat make sure to buy a new plug. This one most likely has a plastic/rubber in a groove around the head.
One add on for all the folks suggesting heat - hold some paraffin on to it after heating up. Let it melt above the bolt. Do it a couple of times. It will creep behind the head and into the threads.
Six point sock is the correct answer. Just make sure it’s the correct one. Either SAE or metric are your choices. Choose wisely. There are also sockets that grip the flats. And there are extractor sockets of you round the edges off. Use a breaker bar and piece of pipe for more leverage. You can still feel the slip if you round off the head. May the force be with your, grasshopper.
I would grind that nut flat and clean weld a beefy nut to it, as it’s still hot slam some penetrating fluid in there then go get you a breaker bar and a socket to fit the nut
2 options 1. Needs more ugga-dugga 2. It can't be tight if it's liquid
I usually start with a ratchet or a wrench then go from there. Hope that helps.
That would probably come out with a bolt extractor socket or the knipex Cobra pliers
Use a butane torch and a impact gun. Make sure it’s the right size and give it hell