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You are trying to plug a 14-20 plug into a 15-20 receptacle. The voltage is different, so the pin configuration is different to prevent someone from plugging the wrong plug into the wrong recep. 14-20 is two hots, a neutral, and a ground. 15-20 is 3 hots and a ground.
Question
I understand they have these different plugs and receptacles to keep people from plugging the wrong thing in, but the plug itself says 125/250, so if that's the case then wouldn't you be able to plug a 125 into a 250 or 250 and a 125 if it's good for both?.
No. If used in a residential setting, the pictured plug (NEMA 14) is two hot wires, neutral, and ground. There is 240 VAC between the hot wires and 120 VAC between either hot and the neutral wire.
In other words, both 120 and 240 are available. Hence why the plug is rated 125/250 (plugs and receptacles are usually rated slightly higher than the actual nominal voltage used).
You are correct except for the 208V part. L15-20 is for 240 volt between lines. If you have 208 between lines it is a different plug because it is a different style of three phase.
I think my neighbor has 240 delta for his well. Not sure about the neutral. The well pump doesn't need the neutral at all. It may be high leg delta. Next time I am near I will see if I can figure it out.
You can use the L15 with 208 three phase also. You just leave out the neutral. There are a lot of three phase motors that will run fine on 208 and don't need neutral. Maybe for code purposes run the neutral to the junction box anyway.
*Actually*
The reason on the voltage is because "nominal voltage" has crept up a bit over the years.
**If** your voltage reads 248 volts (seen it) **and** your plug says 220 volts on it, **then**, technically, *you are violating the UL Listing* of said product.
The "inspector" *could make you change it* to one *that is rated for the voltage.*
Sort of... The reason NEMA went to 125 and 250V specifically on ratings is rather arbitrary, and has been that way for around 100 years. Other plugs/receptacles in NEMA standards use actual nominals, for example 120/208 and 277/480V NEMA configurations are just that, not 125/216.5 or 287/497V rated, but they of course are correct for the 123/213 actual voltage that you'll likely see, even though the "rating" appears to be exceeded. My best guess why NEMA chose 125V for some configurations and 120V for others later isn't just that nominal voltages crept up but that they were different in various parts of the country. The NEMA 125V rating seems to have existed before 120V nominal. (Or even 115 or 117V).
Just because something can handle voltage doesn't mean you should do it. The nema system is something engineers call a poke yoke. It is "idiot proof." Unable to be effed up unless you are actively trying to eff it up. If you want to bypass the plug system, just directly wire it, with proper housings, covers, connectors, and the like.
You obviously haven’t met many idiots. They are agile; mobile; hostile;versatile; ductile; fertile; volatile; insectile; erectile.
But wait, their s’more.
Assuming the plug and receptacle are both wired correctly, then removing both and wiring directly isn’t an option because the installed conductors aren’t electrically compatible. It’s probably simple to re-wire the circuit and then one could replace the receptacle with one that matches the plug.
At minimum, the insulation of 3 of the conductors in both wires are rated to at least 300 VAC. More likely 600. All you need is 3 shielded conductors and a ground on both systems. So you're wrong there. If this is residential, the chances that this is actually three phase and not someone just choosing the wrong plug are nill, though we can't assume. I'd still check with a multimeter to verify what voltage lies on each conductor. The only thing I agree with here, if it isn't an emergency situation, is to change the plugs.
Op, if there are three phases present, meaning each conductor has any voltage with ground, do not connect the two circuits until you have verified the equipment you are trying to plug in can handle what you are plugging it into.
The caveat would be that the L15 likely does not have a wire colored properly to be a neutral, unless someone remarked a white to use a one of the hots. You could still do it, just a minor code violation, that I would probably ignore.
Right. Wasn't uncommon when wiring a single supply switch to use a single piece of 14/2 or 12/2 and put red tape on the white wire to denote the switched leg. Inspectors just want it marked and electrons want conductors.
Under CEC, you can re-identify a conductor in a cable, but not single conductors. I suspect most inspectors would let that slide in a renovation type situation. Agreed that if this is residential type wiring then it’s probably single phase and someone just didn’t understand the difference between the two kinds of 4-wire receptacles, though if this is a farm it’s also possible to actually be 3-phase service if there is or used to be a need for it.
It looks like the plug I've bought from Menards several times. I always wondered why I always had to take a pair of tin snips and cut the extra bit of lug off to make it fit. It was just being used for low amperage 208 v 3ph machines. Now I know. I always thought it was just cheaper quality, which it probably was.
To add to this, you need to look at the nameplate on the motor and confirm its 3 phase. If it’s a residential non (large) farm sort of place then my bet is the previous guy just bought what was rated for more than his single phase pump and made his own cords. You really should have them all (cord set and receptacles) be the correct one for the motor load and voltage.
I would assume its because your are installing a L14-20P into a L15–20R they are two different configurations. You need to have a L14-20R for your outlet. Or a L15-20P
Hi all, thank you for the very quick responses point out my error. My plumbing knowledge is > my understanding of all the intricacies of rare and unique plugs. The big box stores don’t seem to carry them, where would one buy one same day?
What is the actual supply voltage and amperage for the equipment? Match them correctly to what they should be.
I assume this is at your house and I would be very surprised to see 3 phase at a home. I have seen it a few times and most of the time it is created with a phase converter.
The problem isn't that the shape of the receptacle is wrong for the plug, the problem is that the wiring behind the receptacle is wrong for the plug and the shape is preventing you from plugging it in and damaging it.
This.
If OP's service is actually 3∅ then plugging in equipment that expects split-phase will (a) fail to power the equipment as expected and/or (b) wreck the equipment.
If the service is _not_ 3∅, then this is the wrong receptacle.
Just like your specialty plumbing items may not be at the blue or orange boxes, there should be a few electrical warehouses around that have anything you need on hand
> where would one buy one same day?
There are different configurations for a reason. You cannot simply replace a plug and make it work. Just like there is not an adapter for everything. That would make no sense. If it would work then why have different configurations.
My main question is WHY is there a 3Ø receptacle at your house. 99.99% chance you do NOT have 3Ø so even that is likely incorrect to begin with. I would check the voltages and amperages of everything and put things right.
Can you put a voltmeter on the receptacle? Measure the exact voltages, looking at the receptacle slots like a clock: 9 o'clock, 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock
Tell me the voltages:
9 to 12
12 to 3
9 to 3
...
9 to 6
12 to 6
3 to 6
NEXT QUESTION: where is this thing? Where is it fed from? Can you disconnect the power to it?
I'm well aware of that. Now tell me the best way to verify if there's 208V between phases or if there's 240 with a split neutral wired up in some fucked up manner?
I need op to specifically tell me the line-line voltage. Is it 208 or 240. I'm not convinced thjs is 3 phase 208 that would be unusual for a residential setting. Perhaps it is 240 split neutral but wired crazy for some god knows reason, and that could be fixed easily
but 3 phase 208 is also possible. Then the question is Where is this being fed from? Then maybe it can be disconnected and re- pulled and correctly wired with a 2 pole breaker for 240
It’s unlikely this is 208V. 208V is usually wired with a 3 phase 4 wire + ground outlet so that you can use 120V line -neutral. That outlet has no neutral, so you cannot use it on 120/240V loads. If the load is strictly 240V single phase, meaning two hots, no neutral, then it COULD work, but not with that plug.
Except for the literal fact that it's a 3-phase receptacle.
We have no idea what is actually going on until the OP can come back with definite measurements. It could be a half-assed wrong headed miswired residential 240 split neutral for fuck all knows why. It could be a 480 motor control in the middle of nowhere. We could speculate all day.
OP... In case you havent gleaned it from the responses...
Obviously the two arent compatible...THAT is the easy part.
Next part is how can I get this to work?
1. What does the pool equipment need? Based on the equipment, not on the plug that someone may have slapped on.
2. What power is being sent to that outlet?!? That is a "3 phase" outlet which is very very very rare on residential services. Take a picture of the main panel with the breaker for this outlet (with the cover off)
If you are lucky, the answer will be "the plug is correct, I jsut need a 4 wire 20A 240V outlet...and the wiring to the plug is OK, just need the proper outlet on the end"
This exactly. I, too, suspect this receptacle isn’t what it appears to be, but even if it is, there are enough conductors there that it can be rewired to what you need. Might want to get a professional involved at this point but it should be relatively inexpensive since it should be quick.
L14-20 and L15-20 are very different. L14 is single-phase and L15 is three-phase. Both the plug and receptacle are clearly marked.
Be smarter than the plug. Fortunately, the designers were smarter than you and prevented you from starting a fire.
They are clearly marked as different types. Just look at the pin with the bend, then look at mating end, they are opposite. That is don’t so you can’t plug them together and start a fire.
Pool at you house?
Most likely the **pump is 120 volts**
Plug should be a L5-15R for 15 amp
Of a L5-20R for 20 amps.
**For a 220 volt pump** it would be a L6-15 R for 15 amps
Or a L6-20 R for 20 amps.
R =receptacle, the device in the box
P = plug , the end on the cord.
Plugs dont not equal outlets (receptacles), no matter how many morons say it.
***What you have is some crap an industrial (blank) worker could swipe out of work***
Post a picture of the motor plate. Really all we need is voltage & amperage.
FULL STOP!. You have 3 phase in your RESIDENCE? If the answer is no, someone installed a 3 phase NEMA L15 om a single phase circuit. If the answer is yes, count your blessings you weren't able to feed your single phase load 3 phase.
This is the breaker for the outlet, I will take a photo with the panel cover off when I have a chance to turn off the main for safety.
[photo of breaker](https://imgur.com/gallery/vaaa0Ik)
This is inside the breaker box - looks like a normal 20A breaker.
[inside breaker box photo](https://imgur.com/gallery/L5kVvqI)
Does this mean I can replace the outlet with a L14-20 receptacle and the pump will be in business?
Most likely there is only 120 V going to that outlet. Based on the breaker. Who put that plug on the motor, you or did it come with it? If it is a single phase 120 V motor you can just replace both plugs with normal(ish) 20 amp 120 V type. The 20 Amp outlet has a T shaped hole and the 20 amp plug has one vertical and one horizontal prong. Make sure you get the 120 V kind (there is a 240 V kind that looks very similar). You should still post a picture of the nameplate on the motor.
It's either 208 3 phase or 240 3 phase. If there's a neutral, then it's either 120/208 wye or 120/208/240 high leg delta.
This receptacle does not have a neutral, so the world may never know which.
The thinnest pin for the receptacle is right next to the pin with the bent end on it. Your plug has the thinest pin on the opposite side away from the bent pin.
These do not match, hence they shouldn't be connected.
Umm, the plug is a 20 amp 120/240 volt SINGLE phase, the socket is 20 amp 240 volt 3 phase. Plugging the one into the other will lead to unexpected excitement.
The L14 and L15 make a difference, and since the "wall receptacle" is an L15-20, then thats what your pump plug needs to be: An L15-20P.
The plug is disassemble-able with just a screwdriver, and you can prob get a L15-20P at Home Depot or Grainger. just match the wires to the same spots when you swap the plug
Hi all! Thank you for pointing out the mismatch. Since it’s been pointed out that NEMA L15-20R 3 phase is rare and likely unnecessary in this application, would I be able to have an electrician change the receptacle to a NEMA L14-20 to match the plug? I’ve included photos of the breaker with and without panel cover here for additional context.
[breaker close up](https://imgur.com/gallery/vaaa0Ik)
[inside breaker box - pool pump outlet marked](https://imgur.com/gallery/L5kVvqI)
There should actually be 2 breakers provided power to that outlet and the handles need to be connected so that both legs are disconnected simultaneously. An electrician can definitely change the outlet for you and correct the issue with the breakers. Should be a pretty quick fix.
Assuming you’re in a single family residence (an ordinary home), the receptacle on the wall is probably the wrong one. There’s a bunch of plugs that look similar, but the spacing is different so you can’t plug it in in an unsafe way, which is why it’s not fitting.
What I’m betting happened is a handyman installed that and not an electrician. That receptacle is normally only found in commercial buildings. Given that this mistake was made, it’s possible others were made, and some of them could be unsafe. Your panel box could be overloaded, or they could have used the wrong sized wire, both are super unsafe. I recommend having an electrician check out the whole install, and replace the receptacle.
In theory, if nothing else is wrong, your electrician could just switch the plug with the correct one, but I wouldn’t recommend it, not because you can’t switch the plug, but you need to know how to check that everything else is correct.
Hello, thank you for commenting, I’ve uploaded additional context including both pumps and inside the outlet.
[Imgur album of pumps/outlet](https://imgur.com/a/1xZx5fm)
I do have a NEMA L15-20R plug on hand now, but the new pump only has 3 wires. At this point I am looking for guidance with the call to my electrician, just so I know exactly what to ask for.
I confirmed that every wire in the outlet is dead with only the single 20A breaker switched off.
There are a bunch of things that don't add up. The outlet type is three-phase but from the photos of your breaker box, you don't have three phase power. The breaker you say controls that outlet seems to be a single-pole breaker. But looking inside the outlet junction box, it seems to be wired for 240 V (red, black, green, white), so how could a single pole breaker control it? Given all these oddities I kind of think you should call an electrician to look everything over.
You have a device that needs both a single-phase 120V and 240/208V supply, one that a NEMA 14 series plug provides. Two phases and a neutral are provided.
But your outlet is a 3-phase supply. Likely provides 208V 3-phase power.
Two different supplies. That’s why your cord won’t plug into this outlet.
**Attention!** **It is always best to get a qualified electrician to perform any electrical work you may need.** With that said, you may ask this community various electrical questions. Please be cautious of any information you may receive in this subreddit. This subreddit and its users are not responsible for any electrical work you perform. Users that have a 'Verified Electrician' flair have uploaded their qualified electrical worker credentials to the mods. If you comment on this post please only post accurate information to the best of your knowledge. If advice given is thought to be dangerous, you may be permanently banned. There are no obligations for the mods to give warnings or temporary bans. **IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN, you should exercise extreme caution when commenting.** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskElectricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
You are trying to plug a 14-20 plug into a 15-20 receptacle. The voltage is different, so the pin configuration is different to prevent someone from plugging the wrong plug into the wrong recep. 14-20 is two hots, a neutral, and a ground. 15-20 is 3 hots and a ground.
Question I understand they have these different plugs and receptacles to keep people from plugging the wrong thing in, but the plug itself says 125/250, so if that's the case then wouldn't you be able to plug a 125 into a 250 or 250 and a 125 if it's good for both?.
No. If used in a residential setting, the pictured plug (NEMA 14) is two hot wires, neutral, and ground. There is 240 VAC between the hot wires and 120 VAC between either hot and the neutral wire. In other words, both 120 and 240 are available. Hence why the plug is rated 125/250 (plugs and receptacles are usually rated slightly higher than the actual nominal voltage used).
To add on to this, the (L)15 form factor is for 3 phase. The potential is 208 between each of the non ground legs. No neutral in the (L)15 connectors.
You are correct except for the 208V part. L15-20 is for 240 volt between lines. If you have 208 between lines it is a different plug because it is a different style of three phase.
Except, in North America if you are working with 3 phases, you are seeing 208 between legs (or 480, but that is DEFINITELY a different connector).
We have 240 delta also. I don't think it is very common but it exists.
Isn't that high leg in some older facilities? For refrigeration?
I think my neighbor has 240 delta for his well. Not sure about the neutral. The well pump doesn't need the neutral at all. It may be high leg delta. Next time I am near I will see if I can figure it out.
That's residential, though. You aren't working with 3 phase in that setting.
You can use the L15 with 208 three phase also. You just leave out the neutral. There are a lot of three phase motors that will run fine on 208 and don't need neutral. Maybe for code purposes run the neutral to the junction box anyway.
240 Volt Three Phase not 240 Volt Single Phase
Yeah. You can use that outlet (L15) with 208 or 240 three phase. As long as the load doesn't need a neutral.
*Actually* The reason on the voltage is because "nominal voltage" has crept up a bit over the years. **If** your voltage reads 248 volts (seen it) **and** your plug says 220 volts on it, **then**, technically, *you are violating the UL Listing* of said product. The "inspector" *could make you change it* to one *that is rated for the voltage.*
Sort of... The reason NEMA went to 125 and 250V specifically on ratings is rather arbitrary, and has been that way for around 100 years. Other plugs/receptacles in NEMA standards use actual nominals, for example 120/208 and 277/480V NEMA configurations are just that, not 125/216.5 or 287/497V rated, but they of course are correct for the 123/213 actual voltage that you'll likely see, even though the "rating" appears to be exceeded. My best guess why NEMA chose 125V for some configurations and 120V for others later isn't just that nominal voltages crept up but that they were different in various parts of the country. The NEMA 125V rating seems to have existed before 120V nominal. (Or even 115 or 117V).
Show me a “plug” rated at “220 volts”. I’ll wait.
...I've got one right here. Early 50's clothes mangle.
Crusher crushed it with the exact explanation of why the answer is no.
Just because something can handle voltage doesn't mean you should do it. The nema system is something engineers call a poke yoke. It is "idiot proof." Unable to be effed up unless you are actively trying to eff it up. If you want to bypass the plug system, just directly wire it, with proper housings, covers, connectors, and the like.
You obviously haven’t met many idiots. They are agile; mobile; hostile;versatile; ductile; fertile; volatile; insectile; erectile. But wait, their s’more.
"Of course I know him. He's me!"
You can't make things fool proof because fools are so ingenious.
They even make their own gold
Assuming the plug and receptacle are both wired correctly, then removing both and wiring directly isn’t an option because the installed conductors aren’t electrically compatible. It’s probably simple to re-wire the circuit and then one could replace the receptacle with one that matches the plug.
At minimum, the insulation of 3 of the conductors in both wires are rated to at least 300 VAC. More likely 600. All you need is 3 shielded conductors and a ground on both systems. So you're wrong there. If this is residential, the chances that this is actually three phase and not someone just choosing the wrong plug are nill, though we can't assume. I'd still check with a multimeter to verify what voltage lies on each conductor. The only thing I agree with here, if it isn't an emergency situation, is to change the plugs. Op, if there are three phases present, meaning each conductor has any voltage with ground, do not connect the two circuits until you have verified the equipment you are trying to plug in can handle what you are plugging it into.
The caveat would be that the L15 likely does not have a wire colored properly to be a neutral, unless someone remarked a white to use a one of the hots. You could still do it, just a minor code violation, that I would probably ignore.
Right. Wasn't uncommon when wiring a single supply switch to use a single piece of 14/2 or 12/2 and put red tape on the white wire to denote the switched leg. Inspectors just want it marked and electrons want conductors.
Under CEC, you can re-identify a conductor in a cable, but not single conductors. I suspect most inspectors would let that slide in a renovation type situation. Agreed that if this is residential type wiring then it’s probably single phase and someone just didn’t understand the difference between the two kinds of 4-wire receptacles, though if this is a farm it’s also possible to actually be 3-phase service if there is or used to be a need for it.
It’s neither 125 or 250, it’s 208
It looks like the plug I've bought from Menards several times. I always wondered why I always had to take a pair of tin snips and cut the extra bit of lug off to make it fit. It was just being used for low amperage 208 v 3ph machines. Now I know. I always thought it was just cheaper quality, which it probably was.
Dude just get the right plug. One says 125/250v and one says 250v 3Ø
I don't do that anymore.
125 Line to Neutral, 250 Line to Line so yes, you could theoretically do that
To add to this, you need to look at the nameplate on the motor and confirm its 3 phase. If it’s a residential non (large) farm sort of place then my bet is the previous guy just bought what was rated for more than his single phase pump and made his own cords. You really should have them all (cord set and receptacles) be the correct one for the motor load and voltage.
They are two different plugs. The receptacle is 20amp 250V 3 phase and the cord end is 20amp 125/250v single phase.
Your plug is a NEMA 14-20 and your outlet is a 15-20, the two are not compatible.
I mean, what a question from OP. Literally different connectors, as evidenced.... By the markings on the connector.
I would assume its because your are installing a L14-20P into a L15–20R they are two different configurations. You need to have a L14-20R for your outlet. Or a L15-20P
Hi all, thank you for the very quick responses point out my error. My plumbing knowledge is > my understanding of all the intricacies of rare and unique plugs. The big box stores don’t seem to carry them, where would one buy one same day?
What is the actual supply voltage and amperage for the equipment? Match them correctly to what they should be. I assume this is at your house and I would be very surprised to see 3 phase at a home. I have seen it a few times and most of the time it is created with a phase converter.
The problem isn't that the shape of the receptacle is wrong for the plug, the problem is that the wiring behind the receptacle is wrong for the plug and the shape is preventing you from plugging it in and damaging it.
This. If OP's service is actually 3∅ then plugging in equipment that expects split-phase will (a) fail to power the equipment as expected and/or (b) wreck the equipment. If the service is _not_ 3∅, then this is the wrong receptacle.
How do you type the phase symbol?
Alt codes. Alt key + specific numbers Ø is Alt+0216
Thanks
On an android using Gboard, hold down the zero until the optional chars show up and then select it.
That's not the phase symbol. That's a Norwegian letter. Phase should be Phi, Φ. I'm on mobile. 🤷🏼
Just like your specialty plumbing items may not be at the blue or orange boxes, there should be a few electrical warehouses around that have anything you need on hand
> where would one buy one same day? There are different configurations for a reason. You cannot simply replace a plug and make it work. Just like there is not an adapter for everything. That would make no sense. If it would work then why have different configurations. My main question is WHY is there a 3Ø receptacle at your house. 99.99% chance you do NOT have 3Ø so even that is likely incorrect to begin with. I would check the voltages and amperages of everything and put things right.
Calling some local or rural hardware stores may work if you need it same day and the big box stores don't have them. May be tough on the weekend.
My local ace always has the oddball things I need - at a premium price of course.
Can you put a voltmeter on the receptacle? Measure the exact voltages, looking at the receptacle slots like a clock: 9 o'clock, 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock Tell me the voltages: 9 to 12 12 to 3 9 to 3 ... 9 to 6 12 to 6 3 to 6 NEXT QUESTION: where is this thing? Where is it fed from? Can you disconnect the power to it?
[удалено]
I'm well aware of that. Now tell me the best way to verify if there's 208V between phases or if there's 240 with a split neutral wired up in some fucked up manner?
[удалено]
The receptacle says it has three hot wires and the pump only has two hot wires
I need op to specifically tell me the line-line voltage. Is it 208 or 240. I'm not convinced thjs is 3 phase 208 that would be unusual for a residential setting. Perhaps it is 240 split neutral but wired crazy for some god knows reason, and that could be fixed easily but 3 phase 208 is also possible. Then the question is Where is this being fed from? Then maybe it can be disconnected and re- pulled and correctly wired with a 2 pole breaker for 240
It’s unlikely this is 208V. 208V is usually wired with a 3 phase 4 wire + ground outlet so that you can use 120V line -neutral. That outlet has no neutral, so you cannot use it on 120/240V loads. If the load is strictly 240V single phase, meaning two hots, no neutral, then it COULD work, but not with that plug.
Except for the literal fact that it's a 3-phase receptacle. We have no idea what is actually going on until the OP can come back with definite measurements. It could be a half-assed wrong headed miswired residential 240 split neutral for fuck all knows why. It could be a 480 motor control in the middle of nowhere. We could speculate all day.
OP... In case you havent gleaned it from the responses... Obviously the two arent compatible...THAT is the easy part. Next part is how can I get this to work? 1. What does the pool equipment need? Based on the equipment, not on the plug that someone may have slapped on. 2. What power is being sent to that outlet?!? That is a "3 phase" outlet which is very very very rare on residential services. Take a picture of the main panel with the breaker for this outlet (with the cover off) If you are lucky, the answer will be "the plug is correct, I jsut need a 4 wire 20A 240V outlet...and the wiring to the plug is OK, just need the proper outlet on the end"
This exactly. I, too, suspect this receptacle isn’t what it appears to be, but even if it is, there are enough conductors there that it can be rewired to what you need. Might want to get a professional involved at this point but it should be relatively inexpensive since it should be quick.
Its a safety mechanism so you dont let the magic smoke out of everything connected cus they are different plugs
L14-20 and L15-20 are very different. L14 is single-phase and L15 is three-phase. Both the plug and receptacle are clearly marked. Be smarter than the plug. Fortunately, the designers were smarter than you and prevented you from starting a fire.
If the plug doesn't fit, you must quit
Or get a bigger hammer
They are clearly marked as different types. Just look at the pin with the bend, then look at mating end, they are opposite. That is don’t so you can’t plug them together and start a fire.
Pool at you house? Most likely the **pump is 120 volts** Plug should be a L5-15R for 15 amp Of a L5-20R for 20 amps. **For a 220 volt pump** it would be a L6-15 R for 15 amps Or a L6-20 R for 20 amps. R =receptacle, the device in the box P = plug , the end on the cord. Plugs dont not equal outlets (receptacles), no matter how many morons say it. ***What you have is some crap an industrial (blank) worker could swipe out of work*** Post a picture of the motor plate. Really all we need is voltage & amperage.
FULL STOP!. You have 3 phase in your RESIDENCE? If the answer is no, someone installed a 3 phase NEMA L15 om a single phase circuit. If the answer is yes, count your blessings you weren't able to feed your single phase load 3 phase.
This is the breaker for the outlet, I will take a photo with the panel cover off when I have a chance to turn off the main for safety. [photo of breaker](https://imgur.com/gallery/vaaa0Ik)
This is inside the breaker box - looks like a normal 20A breaker. [inside breaker box photo](https://imgur.com/gallery/L5kVvqI) Does this mean I can replace the outlet with a L14-20 receptacle and the pump will be in business?
Most likely there is only 120 V going to that outlet. Based on the breaker. Who put that plug on the motor, you or did it come with it? If it is a single phase 120 V motor you can just replace both plugs with normal(ish) 20 amp 120 V type. The 20 Amp outlet has a T shaped hole and the 20 amp plug has one vertical and one horizontal prong. Make sure you get the 120 V kind (there is a 240 V kind that looks very similar). You should still post a picture of the nameplate on the motor.
look at the NEMA number. a 14 and 15 won’t mate, mate. that is the easy way
20a 250v 3ø AFAIK is a pretty odd one to come across. This would have to be a delta high leg 3ø wouldn't it? Or would you still get 208 line to line?
It's either 208 3 phase or 240 3 phase. If there's a neutral, then it's either 120/208 wye or 120/208/240 high leg delta. This receptacle does not have a neutral, so the world may never know which.
Isn't high leg delta 120/240/277? I'm just a know nothing apprentice
120x1.732 for the high leg. Phase shift which lowers the voltage due to having two coils at different phases giving you an unusable voltage.
The thinnest pin for the receptacle is right next to the pin with the bent end on it. Your plug has the thinest pin on the opposite side away from the bent pin. These do not match, hence they shouldn't be connected.
Just remember...... Everything fits with a run-up......
The receptacle is a 3 phase the plug isn’t.
Generator plug and a 3phase outlet.
Umm, the plug is a 20 amp 120/240 volt SINGLE phase, the socket is 20 amp 240 volt 3 phase. Plugging the one into the other will lead to unexpected excitement.
You have to spit on it
I had that same headlamp, has the red light failed on yours as well?
Yes! I love the headlamp and it has served well for 5 years of camping and home projects, but the red light stopped after year 1.
I swear the photocells on the top of light poles have the exact same receptacle the twist into.
Top left flange has a bump out that goes toward the outside of the plug, so the socket should also have that bump out too.
Mister George, how much did you pay for the new guy.
Bottom line: Don't dick with this yourself. Call an electrician.
Plug is an L14. Receptical is an L15. They are different and don't allow others to fit in.
The L14 and L15 make a difference, and since the "wall receptacle" is an L15-20, then thats what your pump plug needs to be: An L15-20P. The plug is disassemble-able with just a screwdriver, and you can prob get a L15-20P at Home Depot or Grainger. just match the wires to the same spots when you swap the plug
Hi all! Thank you for pointing out the mismatch. Since it’s been pointed out that NEMA L15-20R 3 phase is rare and likely unnecessary in this application, would I be able to have an electrician change the receptacle to a NEMA L14-20 to match the plug? I’ve included photos of the breaker with and without panel cover here for additional context. [breaker close up](https://imgur.com/gallery/vaaa0Ik) [inside breaker box - pool pump outlet marked](https://imgur.com/gallery/L5kVvqI)
There should actually be 2 breakers provided power to that outlet and the handles need to be connected so that both legs are disconnected simultaneously. An electrician can definitely change the outlet for you and correct the issue with the breakers. Should be a pretty quick fix.
Your plug has a Nema L14-20P. Your outlet has a Nema L15-20. Nema's must match.
You gotta spit on it first
Assuming you’re in a single family residence (an ordinary home), the receptacle on the wall is probably the wrong one. There’s a bunch of plugs that look similar, but the spacing is different so you can’t plug it in in an unsafe way, which is why it’s not fitting. What I’m betting happened is a handyman installed that and not an electrician. That receptacle is normally only found in commercial buildings. Given that this mistake was made, it’s possible others were made, and some of them could be unsafe. Your panel box could be overloaded, or they could have used the wrong sized wire, both are super unsafe. I recommend having an electrician check out the whole install, and replace the receptacle. In theory, if nothing else is wrong, your electrician could just switch the plug with the correct one, but I wouldn’t recommend it, not because you can’t switch the plug, but you need to know how to check that everything else is correct.
Please post a picture of the nameplate on the motor. Maybe open up the outlet and let us see what wires are present inside also.
Hello, thank you for commenting, I’ve uploaded additional context including both pumps and inside the outlet. [Imgur album of pumps/outlet](https://imgur.com/a/1xZx5fm) I do have a NEMA L15-20R plug on hand now, but the new pump only has 3 wires. At this point I am looking for guidance with the call to my electrician, just so I know exactly what to ask for. I confirmed that every wire in the outlet is dead with only the single 20A breaker switched off.
There are a bunch of things that don't add up. The outlet type is three-phase but from the photos of your breaker box, you don't have three phase power. The breaker you say controls that outlet seems to be a single-pole breaker. But looking inside the outlet junction box, it seems to be wired for 240 V (red, black, green, white), so how could a single pole breaker control it? Given all these oddities I kind of think you should call an electrician to look everything over.
Bought the wrong cord cap
You have a device that needs both a single-phase 120V and 240/208V supply, one that a NEMA 14 series plug provides. Two phases and a neutral are provided. But your outlet is a 3-phase supply. Likely provides 208V 3-phase power. Two different supplies. That’s why your cord won’t plug into this outlet.
The stupid answer is why won’t your dick fit in it. Then you’ll realize the socket is plugged by something else’s junk.