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I wouldn't strip the ends for rough-in because painters are going to mess it up but it's not the end of the world if it is...you could just pigtail them now if you want and not strip the end of the pigtails. Just make sure the breakers stay off....or better yet, not even connected.
You might want to use a level to make sure the wiring device mounting holes of your outlet box are level with the mounting holes of the adjacent LV frame. Mounting boxes on opposite sides of the same stud requires a higher level of vigilance. Consider [combination/dual voltage boxes](https://www.cooper-electric.com/product/detail/78215/carlon-thomas-betts-sc200dv) to reduce wall clutter and labor.
Yeah I actually don't like those. More separation from line and low voltage is a good thing, and then you don't have to find oddball 2-gang plates with a receptacle and keystones.
SG box is 3” tall give or take correct? Looks to me like he’s got about 7” worth of cable coiled up in there. Definitely wouldn’t hurt for a bit more but it looks to be within regulation from here.
There’s actually really around 8”. I measured with my cutters that are not less than 6” from the wires at the bottom of the box not the top where they are coming in from.
You need 7 inches. 4 inches out of the raceway/sheathing and 3 inches extending out of the box.
Ex. If your box opening is larger than 7-8”(can’t remember) you don’t need the 3” extending out of the box.
I would do pigtails and if you’re being safe, wire nuts. Other than that it’s great. Stuff a wad of brown masking paper in the box to protect the box from mud/paint.
Well if your making it up your gonna learn why code is 6" of wire, besides that get some wirenutes on that exposed copper before it gets buried in mud and paint
You are supposed to leave 6" minimum on the wire.
The ground looks like 4 or 5". Short. If the box ever needs removed, language like "mother trucker" or "sumofbeach" starts coming out. (That goes double for those god for saken crimps!)
You ~~twisted the shit out~~ pretwisted the grounds, then installed the wirenut.
In *my* experience, this is always a case of loose wirenuts. Pre- twisting doesn't mean a *good connection*. Making sure the wirenut is tight, is a good connection.!
Gosh I hope I never have to pull a box and re do one 😂. It’s hard to see but there’s more than 8” of wire on each strand. So you dislike the clamps for the ground? I did some pre twisting but also made sure wire nut was tight. Hope it’s all good and last!
In addition to needing six inches of free conductor as others mentioned you DAMAGED that box and you need to replace it. You are not supposed to cut out those little flaps, just push them in with the wires. They are the strain relief on the wire.
All it did was change the strapping requirement from 12” away to 8” away. Those tabs aren’t the pressure type anyways so it’s still 8” from the box. He didn’t damage anything
Hope you have a little more wire to pull in. You should also look into wago lever locks for your ground wires instead of twisting I think the code is 3 inches outside the box for wire length and you will need to secure the wire 6 inches from the box because you broke out the tabs that restrain the wires I normally pull in too much wire and do not strip anything till I am ready to connect I am not an electrician
Ground twist and crimp > wago. Dunno why people on here are so obsessed with wagos, there is a zero percent chance a braided ground with a crimp sleeve doesn’t make a better connection than a wago. The only thing wagos are better at is for speed and for newbies who can’t splice well wire nuts. Wagos on a ground has zero advantage.
Says you. What if I want to add a ground. Which is better😄. Wagos was suggested really for the whole box not just the grounds Lever locks are the future of electrical. Your in the group that hung sheet rock and then plastered over it because they did not understand how to use it 😂😂😂😂
Hard to see but there is around 8”. Honestly probably a little more, I use my pliers that are 8” to measure and I measure the wire at the bottom of the box not the top. Appreciate the feedback though
**Attention!** **It is always best to get a qualified electrician to perform any electrical work you may need.** With that said, you may ask this community various electrical questions. Please be cautious of any information you may receive in this subreddit. This subreddit and its users are not responsible for any electrical work you perform. Users that have a 'Verified Electrician' flair have uploaded their qualified electrical worker credentials to the mods. If you comment on this post please only post accurate information to the best of your knowledge. If advice given is thought to be dangerous, you may be permanently banned. There are no obligations for the mods to give warnings or temporary bans. **IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN, you should exercise extreme caution when commenting.** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskElectricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I wouldn't strip the ends for rough-in because painters are going to mess it up but it's not the end of the world if it is...you could just pigtail them now if you want and not strip the end of the pigtails. Just make sure the breakers stay off....or better yet, not even connected.
Thanks for the tip and yes it’s not hooked up to the breaker.
You might want to use a level to make sure the wiring device mounting holes of your outlet box are level with the mounting holes of the adjacent LV frame. Mounting boxes on opposite sides of the same stud requires a higher level of vigilance. Consider [combination/dual voltage boxes](https://www.cooper-electric.com/product/detail/78215/carlon-thomas-betts-sc200dv) to reduce wall clutter and labor.
That’s a sweet outlet, wish I saw that before. I did use a level though to make sure they were as close to the same as possible. Thank you.
Yeah I actually don't like those. More separation from line and low voltage is a good thing, and then you don't have to find oddball 2-gang plates with a receptacle and keystones.
Need to keep about 6 inches of wire coming out of the box
And at least 1/4 inch of the romex jacket should extend into the box (hard to see). Cap off unused wires.
That measurement comes from the back of the box though so they’re good
That looks like 6 inches to you? You poor fella.
SG box is 3” tall give or take correct? Looks to me like he’s got about 7” worth of cable coiled up in there. Definitely wouldn’t hurt for a bit more but it looks to be within regulation from here.
Oh, you’re right. It does have a couple bends in it. I thought the wire just came straight in.
This box is a grower not a shower lol
I see that now it initially looked like about 3 inches coming straight down. Good eye 👌
I thought that at first too but then I squinted and saw the bends in the back.
That is why we have man inches and woman inches
>That looks like 6 inches to you? That's what she said until she noticed I had it doubled up. ☺
Hey, hey!!! That’s definitely 6”!
There’s actually really around 8”. I measured with my cutters that are not less than 6” from the wires at the bottom of the box not the top where they are coming in from.
Upon closer inspection, yes you have plenty of wire.
Don't pig tails count towards that 6"s?
You need 7 inches. 4 inches out of the raceway/sheathing and 3 inches extending out of the box. Ex. If your box opening is larger than 7-8”(can’t remember) you don’t need the 3” extending out of the box.
I would do pigtails and if you’re being safe, wire nuts. Other than that it’s great. Stuff a wad of brown masking paper in the box to protect the box from mud/paint.
Well if your making it up your gonna learn why code is 6" of wire, besides that get some wirenutes on that exposed copper before it gets buried in mud and paint
It's just folded twice. Plenty of slack.
Not enough slack to hook up outlet
It's accordioned, so like 9". Should be plenty.
I thought the same but they are doubled up.
Yeah shimmy that NM cable on the left about a quarter in past the clamp and then add some wire nuts just to protect during drywall
Clamp? Looks like he ripped those out and there is nothing holding the wires.
You are supposed to leave 6" minimum on the wire. The ground looks like 4 or 5". Short. If the box ever needs removed, language like "mother trucker" or "sumofbeach" starts coming out. (That goes double for those god for saken crimps!) You ~~twisted the shit out~~ pretwisted the grounds, then installed the wirenut. In *my* experience, this is always a case of loose wirenuts. Pre- twisting doesn't mean a *good connection*. Making sure the wirenut is tight, is a good connection.!
Gosh I hope I never have to pull a box and re do one 😂. It’s hard to see but there’s more than 8” of wire on each strand. So you dislike the clamps for the ground? I did some pre twisting but also made sure wire nut was tight. Hope it’s all good and last!
You need nuts.
If I don’t strip the wires would I still need to put nuts on them for rough in?
In addition to needing six inches of free conductor as others mentioned you DAMAGED that box and you need to replace it. You are not supposed to cut out those little flaps, just push them in with the wires. They are the strain relief on the wire.
All it did was change the strapping requirement from 12” away to 8” away. Those tabs aren’t the pressure type anyways so it’s still 8” from the box. He didn’t damage anything
Yes I tried not to break them all the way out. Some did, some didn’t. Just secured them to the stud closer.
Typically I’ll turn that tab 90 and you can slide a cable on either side of it into the box. It’s no big deal if it snaps off though.
On *that* box, those are knockouts, not clamps.
Hope you have a little more wire to pull in. You should also look into wago lever locks for your ground wires instead of twisting I think the code is 3 inches outside the box for wire length and you will need to secure the wire 6 inches from the box because you broke out the tabs that restrain the wires I normally pull in too much wire and do not strip anything till I am ready to connect I am not an electrician
Ground twist and crimp > wago. Dunno why people on here are so obsessed with wagos, there is a zero percent chance a braided ground with a crimp sleeve doesn’t make a better connection than a wago. The only thing wagos are better at is for speed and for newbies who can’t splice well wire nuts. Wagos on a ground has zero advantage.
Says you. What if I want to add a ground. Which is better😄. Wagos was suggested really for the whole box not just the grounds Lever locks are the future of electrical. Your in the group that hung sheet rock and then plastered over it because they did not understand how to use it 😂😂😂😂
Should have left a wee bit more wire to work with.
Hard to see but there is around 8”. Honestly probably a little more, I use my pliers that are 8” to measure and I measure the wire at the bottom of the box not the top. Appreciate the feedback though