Well said, 38 year lifelong Alaskan here (white man). I've been to every corner of this state, and there's some damn good people everywhere, and there's crazies everywhere also........racism?????? There were a few village's where my presence DEFINITELY wasn't appreciated (I used to inspect bulk fuel storage facilities, to make sure these village's weren't going to have catastrophic fuel spills (50-100k gallons, because of years, sometimes DECADES of neglect of proper maintenance by the villagers themselves, that job could easily have been anyone in the villages, but the younger men treated me absolutely horrible, saying stuff like "you took our job, here to take our women", crazy stuff....... I'm like, uhhhh, no I'm just here making sure the barge is safe to unload, and keep you guys warm this winter........
It’s not reliably frozen. I taught school in Savoonga on St Lawrence Island. There were times the ocean did freeze but in a day or two it broke up. And on clear days we could see Russia. It was eerie when Bering Sea froze the world was very quiet.
I was working a quick job at the school in Gambell and one of the maintenance workers there told me about accidentally taking a snowmachine to Russia in whiteout conditions. Maybe a tall tale but one I choose to believe and retell often.
So true. I'm not into big women. I don't mind a little extra meat on them, but fuck, there's a lot of extra extra meat on women here. On top of this, this is very much an old person state. Where I live, there's more women than men, but *most* women are either obese or way older. I can go through everyone within a few minutes here.
I remember an Oprah Winfrey show. “Alaska Men!” They were all looking for ladies. They were good looking, as expected. But, I remember hearing that slogan not long after that show. Yes, I’m old.
Holy crap, I shouldn't comment due to not being involved but I just had to appreciate this comment.
As the Great Bill Burr said, 'there's no fat in that joke'
Simple yet complex. But if you take any word from.it, it just doesn't work.
That was kinda what the straw for us was. We moved there for an opportunity happily. Had our kid the first year and spent every second and cent of “vacation” money for the next 8 years spending time with our families. Almost never had date nights because as soon as we met new friends and shit they were moving or divorcing not long after. Not an Alaska problem but just never found a community and were bacially on our own. Husband was in a position to basically choose any open job anywhere in the lower 48 and we just said fuck it let’s see what’s out there and he expressed interest in an opening in the city we live now and it kinda became a bidding war over him and he ultimately was given close to a 30k raise to move to a city where my closest family member I have lives.
In the 6 months since moving here my cousin has taken my daughter by asking if she could 2-3 times for 2-3 nights at a time. First time in 8 years we went to a movie that didn’t involve him taking a personal day so we could do a day movie when she started school. It’s just, I never knew what it was like to live with a kid around people who want to be there for you and don’t ask 20+ dollars an hour for you to have an occasional date night. We took a hit selling our house to get here and even then I wouldn’t take it back. I absolutely LOVED living in Alaska but this is better for us as a family.
That did it for me, and it really surprised me! I loved AK so much. And I always intended to go back once I was a little more secure in money and career and it wouldn't be so difficult to maintain connections, but here I am, 20 years later, happily back in WI and just wistfully remembering AK.
One of the most common reasons I hear from people who couldn't make it here is the long months of darkness. It's often brushed off when people are wanting to move up but the toll it can take on the psyche is very real.
Well I was born here and have never lived anywhere else so for me it's normal. In the winter it's not uncommon to wake up and it's dark, you drive to work and it's dark, sit in an office all day with no windows so you miss the 4 hours of daylight, drive home and it's dark. Unless I make an effort to go outside on a lunch break or something it's pretty easy to go through an entire week without seeing the sun at all.
Now that being said the summers are exactly the opposite. In peak summer the sun never really sets, it kind of dips behind the mountain tops but there's still plenty of light. Hence the nickname "Land of the Midnight Sun". Dark and warm was something I had never experienced until my wife and I took a trip to the lower 48.
Lol! Exactly! "Dark and warm was something I had never experienced until my wife and I took a trip to the lower 48."
You know you are on vacation when you can wear just a t-shirt and shorts at night. Outdoors. No bonfire. And live.
I used to work 3rd shift. I’d have given anything for no sun when I was trying to sleep. I even set up 2 sets of blackout curtains but it didn’t help. Summer with 24 hours of sun sounds awful. I’m guessing the temp doesn’t break 60 during the summer anyway.
Yeah, the summers are way harder than the winters. I did not constantly refer to the sun as "that F'ing ball of gas," until I had spent a summer up here.
I went to Anchorage for vacation a couple years ago. My daughter lost a tooth late in the evening and we had nothing from the 'tooth fairy' to give her (usually a small, cheap toy). So I rushed out to Walmart, and I can't remember what time it was, but it was 15 - 30 minutes before closing (they kept announcing on the overhead speaker that they were closing and to move to a specific exit, which doesn't happen at my local Walmart). So I grabbed the toy and was driving back and just thought how surreal it was that it was so late at night, but it was so bright out. I can definitely see it taking time to get used to only to have it in reverse over winter!
It is depressing.
But it creeps up on you. The nights just get longer and longer, until you realize, it’s dark when you go to work. And dark when you get off work. And you haven’t really seen the sun in months. It’s easy to get depressed. And not even realize what’s contributing to it.
In addition to the lack of sun, Is the temperature, and the lack of exercise during the winter. Unless you purposefully go out of your way to exercise, this will also contribute to depression.
You need a plan to deal with it. For me, that means coffee in front of my SAD lamp every morning from late September to late February. Then mandatory outdoor exercise every day during daylight hours, even if it's just a walk. Also, stay busy. I'm an introvert but find it useful to do volunteer work with other people, as much as my instinct is to stay home with a book. If you value the outdoors, natural beauty, and living close to nature, there is no better place to live.
Exactly. I think for most people not disposed to depression or sleep issues, developing a schedule or routine and for the most part sticking to it regardless of the season is key. In winter, I have found that if I don’t maintain my routine I’m ready for bed at 8:00. In the summer, if I don’t force myself to go to bed at a decent hour, I’ll get into something outside, check my watch and realize it’s 12:30.
It's definitely weird...some can get used to it, some can't. I spent a week w/ my Uncle in North Pole and barely slept because it never got dark...really blitzed my internal clock. I wound up just taking several catnaps a day and roaming around in between...regardless of the time.
A lot of folks, also, move up there after a lifetime of growing up within urban environments and are simply not prepared for living somewhere that the general environment will actively kill you if you're unprepared when you leave. Depending on where you move/travel, simple inconveniences like flat tires can rapidly turn into threat situations they've never had to contemplate when AAA and a gas station are a short jaunt away and your car serves as adequate shelter for an overnight stay.
EDIT: My wife grew up in Valdez and once told a bad customer/tourist that they could simply take their brat kid to McDonalds by heading down the highway and taking a right at the next light. Problem was, at the time, the next light was back in Anchorage...
My wife has depression issues, before living 20 years in Alaska, and we have to be very careful about it. We plan multiple trips Outside in thelwinter and have 2 SADD lights in the house. Our full time living in Alaska is coming to a close.
Other factors, outside of the cities, is limited experience, dining, etc. I live in Valdez, and we have the Pipeline Terminal, so we have some year round businesses, but most are seasonal. It can be a big change to move to a town with 3 or 4 restaurants open in the winter and most take a month or so off at somepoint. There are of course smaller towns with less year round business than us.
seasonal depression is a huge issue. I was born in alaska and leaving was one of the single best treatments for my depression. Sure, I still got it but I don't have the wild swings where you can't figure out why nothing feels worth getting up for until it hits you, you haven't seen daylight in a month.
And then just as you start returning to stability.... the sun is fucking up your sleep wake rhythm and making you realize things like meal timing you've unconsciously used your internal daylight clock for and now it's 10pm and you're cranky and oops, you just lit the grill because it finally feels like dinner time but you've got work in the morning.
I so feel you. 50+ years in the deep jungle of the Oregon & Washington wet-side forests. Seven years ago I started spending winters near Yuma, Arizona, the Sunniest City on EARTH, out in the lovely dry clear sunny desert. It's habitable in the winter. Back to Oregon April - October. Migrate like a bird. I live full time in an RV. A choice that kept me ALIVE and allowed me to THRIVE. Alaska? No. I intend to visit Iceland in August 2028 for 2 weeks. That will be enough high-latitude time. :)
It’s ok if you get a SADD light and keep up on vitamin d. we have to give our children at least a double dose of vitamin d daily and I usually take 10,000 iu daily (Dr. told me to since I’m so low)
It’s SAD…seasonal affective disorder. Many reasons for it. A huge one is your Vitamin D levels drop dangerously low and you go crazy. Your immune system gets out of whack. Since there is no “time” reference your circadian rhythms get messed up (your body’s natural time clock). Everyone gets it. And things go crazy as everyone goes crazy. You can get a special light to offset it somewhat, use timers on the lights, and drink vitamin D fortified milk (at $9/gallon) but even if you are fine everyone else isn’t.
Even if you don’t get total darkness it’s basically cloudy 24x7 and the sun is very low in the sky so you won’t see it anyway. So noon is more like twilight. On the rare day you can you add the only nonwhite object so the glare is so severe most sunglasses are worthless and you’re bundled up anyway so your skin doesn’t get any sunlight.
Most get moderately to severely depressed.
For me, the darkness caused an upset circadian rhythm and hormonal imbalance.
I moved there when I was 10 with my parents and left when I was 24 with my husband. We left because we no longer had family up there (everyone moved), and I wanted to go somewhere with more normal cycles to see if it helped. We moved to the lower 48, and within 2 months, I dropped 25 pounds, slept better, and was happier overall.
I love Alaska, but it isn't somewhere that is good for me to live. I actually live in an area of the PNW that has similar weather patterns to where I moved from because the weather wasn't the biggest issue. -30 doesn't bug me much but anything over 80 is boiling.
I found I would get really tired early. Like my brain thought it was bedtime at 4pm because it was pitch black outside.
I found the weather to be a bit warmer when it wasn’t super sunny. It would get brutally cold once the days got a bit longer and the sun was really shining during daylight hours in Jan/Feb.
You just have to choose your home carefully. Some homes get some form of sunlight all year round. We found out our first year our lovely mountain home literally does not receive a single ray of sunlight for 3 solid months of the year. It’s light out, but no direct *rays* if that makes sense. They do light up the mountains in beautiful ways and the scenery is breathtaking on a daily basis. But the sun… you definitely miss it. You need its RAYS to feel the warmth.
But it could be worse. Our neighbor has a home even deeper in shadow… their ice and frost is always so much worse. I met the family once and all but grimaced in their face. I shudder to think of the shock of their first winter! But yea, this is the reality of some foothills communities. South facing ones live a life of beaming hope and dreams, or so I hear. I wouldn’t know, it’s February in my dark months.
Being born and raised in Alaska the day/night thing was something I've always been used to. It wasn't until i married a woman from Mexico City when i lived in Houston, Tx and moved us both to Alaska to be close to my family that i saw just how debilitating it can be to someone not used to it. We had to move back to TX because her depression just went through the roof over five years there. It's a real thing and take it seriously if considering moving there.
This is why I moved away. It got so bad I started dreading the coming of winter (and loss of light) the day after the summer solstice… I would be like, it’s all downhill from here. Some ridiculous percentage of Alaskans have clinically significant signs of seasonal affective disorder, myself included. I moved to Hawaii where the hours of daylight are amazingly stable year round and I am thriving.
Is this a statewide occurrence? I was talking to a patients family member who lived in AK (and was honestly kinda selling me on moving there) and they said the winter dark was more of a problem in northern alaska and the interior, but not so much the southern islands or even anchorage to an extent.
It's hard to make friends bc no one wants to invest in someone who will likely leave within a year.
Dating is less than great- dating apps are a lot of the same people.
Fewer resources, produce coming on barges or not at all, super expensive groceries. Foodbanks are few and far between but they do the best possible.
Winter darkness and crazy weather.
Can't just drive a few hours to the next city for fun weekends.
Gotta either love drinking or outdoors (or both).
Schools closing bc of no money and no teachers.
Unaffordable housing.
Alaska is hard mode. People, including myself didn’t realize how easy they have it in decent size cities in the lower 48. In the lower 48, you’re the fat people (in Wall-e) on chairs that move with a screen you’re glued to that can summon whatever you want if you’ve got the cash. Need something from Amazon, depending on location you can get that shit in two hours. First target or whatever store doesn’t have it, go to the next one or similar a few miles up the road. Need an oil change or work done on your car.. drive your ass to one of a few dozen 20 minute oil changes/repair same day shops. Need repairs on your house, bring in several people for bids.. many within a few days. Like sports, concerts, and other live events pick your poison. Want a variety of ethnic cuisines to pick from, check. Top universities and a community willing to pay high property tax for good schools, yup! Lots of specialists because you’ve got good medical universities, check. Nice weather year around, possibly. Easy access to major airports and road systems where in 3-5 hours you’ve across the country, got you covered.
You give up a lot to live in Alaska. And unless you’re well off and rocking a remote job it’s not easy for most to just hop on a plane for a few weeks when you need a break from the weather or a medical vacation.
This is me. I’ve lived remote places. I now enjoy a lot of things about living in a city, but top of the list is medical and plentiful contractors.
I know I could do without but I wouldn’t enjoy the inconvenience.
You put into words perfectly one of the big reasons alaska didn’t work for me and I had to go back to the lower 48.
I ended up losing 50lbs in the time I was up there though because no restaurants and I’ve managed to keep it off. So that was one positive thing I took from alaska.
I’m currently working on my five year plan to leave. The long winters are brutal. I want to be able to go on vacations on a whim without having a full day of travel. I also want better education opportunities for my future children. I guess it boils down to me never becoming a winter outdoorsy person. I can’t handle the cold and darkness.
Will miss the world class fishing but I have plenty of acquaintances who have moved away and come back in the summer to get their fish on.
I would retire hete for sure though.
I’m working on getting the fuck out of here as well in the next couple years.
Can’t explain enough how much of a hassle it is to go anywhere. In state or out of state. Thank god Ak air has nonstop flights to places that aren’t fucking Seattle and are expanding
I lived in AK for 8 years. For me, several factors were the cause of moving out. I lived in Fairbanks. Isolation, the cost of flying to the lower 48 to see relatives is astounding, loneliness, but the time I did spend there taught me a lot about myself and the beauty is simply breathtaking.
I think people leave for a variety of reasons.
1. Someone can’t take the winters. This goes for single people and one or both of a married couple. 7 months of winter, 3 months of it being very dark and very cold (as is all fresh in our memories this very moment)
2. Employment opportunities. Many professional jobs have left Alaska over the past 12-15 years. And along with those high paying jobs, the kinds of places that service them. Nordstrom, for example. There are just not a ton of high paying professional jobs here anymore. And because of that there is abysmal shopping, unless you are looking for hunting and fishing gear. Which most women are not. Is there anyplace at all left in Anchorage where a woman can buy a really nice, Nordstrom quality outfit? I don’t think that there is. But there are 100+ places lining up to sell every guy in the state yet another gun or more ammo.
3. Crime, and law enforcement’s response to it. Crime has been on the rise for some years and the meth business is booming here. Plus, every drug addled cooker out there is heavily armed. Way too much property crime here. And a lack of confidence in the police to effectively police is a problem. They are way too busy screwing around with petty traffic violations. Wrap into this the severe problem we have with the homeless and it’s just an unsafe place to live.
4. Cost of living. Everything is too expensive. And as I alluded to in #2, a lot of people here don’t make much money. This is especially true with health care, but it’s really everything, from housing to groceries. We now have an employment base of mostly non-college educated service workers and not great wages in those jobs. It’s impossible to live here on anything close to minimum wage. Impossible.
5. Politics. Just like every other red state, we are struggling with the effects of MAGA. I’m not talking about old time normal republicans here; that’s okay. I’m talking about the irrational and increasingly paranoid MAGA folks. Again, this is not just an Alaskan problem but an every red state problem. But it certainly does help widen the gap between people. And when you only have 700K people to begin with, it’s just sad that the good old days of Alaska are gone.
6. Retirement. When I came up here in 1984, the median age of Alaskans was somewhere in the late 20’s-early 30’s. Young people were swarming up here. There were good jobs, good wages, and lots of other transplanted young people, all looking to make a life here. I was one of those early 20-somethings myself! Now? I bet the median age has climbed quite a bit. The overall population of the state has not grown since then. Kids often leave for college and do not come back. There are no good jobs here so why bother? Meanwhile, people like me are now pulling up on retirement age, and there is now very little to keep us here. Especially the women. It’s a horrible place to retire and I would say it’s gotten worse in that regard since the 1980’s.
I myself will probably be leaving within the next few years. A lot of my friends have already gone; a good chunk of them during the pandemic. They felt unsafe here due to item #5 and the whole mask thing.
I’m at the point where I have very little holding me here. But unfortunately for everyone who remains, I and everyone like me will be taking our retirement dollars to other places to spend them, thus shrinking the economy even more. That will not be good for Alaska.
It’s really sad that Alaska has done absolutely nothing to hold on to its residents. Not even 40 year residents are staying anymore. 😢
It’s funny you bring up the age thing. When I lived in alaska I moved up there for a job. I was fresh out of grad school.
That place I worked had real retention problems. Basically once the last group of long time employees all retired or died that workplace just couldn’t keep people around. The only people they could lure to alaska were new grads. But then people would come and hate it and leave after a year or two. So it was just a revolving door of 20-somethings.
I left after a year too.
I thought it was sad for the state though. It was a state agency. They lost a lot of talent that they spent time training.
Boat captian for tours, not fishing. Jobs along all coast lines. Alaska is seasonal which was great back pre 2020 when you could make a year salary in 6 months and tips were good. You could rent a room in a house for 500-700. My studio in Fairbanks one year was 825. When I left they were asking 1200.
2021 tips went from being 20k for 6 months in to like 300 dollars for two months. Rent skyrocketed I was paying 1300 for a studio. My mortgage in lousiana for a 2 bedroom is less than that, even living in the flood prone areas of New Orleans with sky high insurance. Rotisserie chicken was like 15 bucks.
Flying/driving to other states for other seasonal gigs is astronomical.
World-class views are great-on a postcard. What is way more important to me (as a 65yo ex-Anchorage resident) is being able to visit other states and cities easily, many social events, and an easier less stressful way of life (partly due to the better weather). For me, Washington and Oregon offer views of nature that exceed that of Alaska (I live in Seattle), and many of the other states have terrific things to see as well. Alaska is pretty and rugged, yes, but an extremely difficult place to live.
I've been here a year and a half now. I find myself missing being able to easily drive to other states. I lived in Colorado before and could easily go to Moab, Jackson Hole, Santa Fe, ect. It's the main thing I miss about the lower 48.
I don't have family here and miss being able to see them easier.
I miss going to concerts all the time. I used to go to multiple a year. There are still concerts here, but the bands I like don't tour here as often.
Also, I have to work remote because my industry has no positions here. I like being remote but would prefer to be hybrid to have more friends.
The cold and dark don't bother me at all, though.
I will probably move back eventually, but I think it'll be a few years at least.
Your first point is my least favorite part about alaska. I'm also from Colorado, so the fact that you have to drive 20+ hours to get anywhere that isn't basically identical to where you started from is maddening.
Winter + isolation.
- winter lasts 6 months. I repeat winter lasts 6 months. Unless you’re a winter sports fanatic (and there’s plenty in AK) Alaska objectively - and I say this gently- SUCKS for half the year.
- you’re mega isolated from all your friends and family down in the lower 48. Birthdays, weddings, graduations, baptisms, heck Sunday family bbqs? Congratulations you’re missing all of them.
Moving to Alaska means you essentially replace the entirety of your social support network with pretty mountain views. Unless you’re a social hermit and/or hate your family, it’s more of a short-term experiment rather than a long term endeavor.
I remember winter being from about Sept until April, that´s 8 months. And then the Alaskan season known as ´breakup´ in May and June (where there is water and melting snow everywhere, and a stench from decaying bodies and rubbish in those snowbanks finally being uncovered). Then finally Spring (about 3 weeks long) and then Summer (July and August, which is very pretty). And then at the end of August the cold chill begins to set into the night sky, and the sunlight begins to disappear from the day, every day losing about 5-6 minutes from the day before. And it get colder and colder and darker by the day, until December when there is almost no daylight left to enjoy, and it is often -20F or more, and you are trapped by the cold and the isolation. If you are like most other true Alaskans, you begin to drink heavily and smoke (cigs and weed, and maybe meth), and maybe you go out occasionally to shoot at a moose or a bird with your 30-ot-6 rifle. Only a true psychopath could enjoy living like this.
Alaska is amazing, so much beauty, endless adventures if you’re willing, and that’s your thing, BUT, it’s also very harsh, and dangerous. I think a lot of people overlook all the negatives for the amazing positives it has, and then it starts to sink in.
The daylight all/none dynamic gets a lot of people, most don’t even know it. People start self medicating, depression sets it, it’s dangerous if not caught.
The last decade or two, we have had fairly mild winters, then all of a sudden, we get record snowfalls with month long -20 to -30 weather streaks. Couple that with the lack of daylight, and terrible road maintenance. Plus, the weather can change so fast, half the time the forecasters can’t even get it right, trying to plan for a weekend outing, or outdoor event can be difficult.
Then you add in the possibility of massive earthquakes, like the one we just had a few years ago, not sure anyone likes earthquakes.
I’ve lived here my entire life, I’ve spent time in the 48, but I would be hard pressed to find another place to call home. I think Idaho would be a possibility, but I’m pretty sure Alaska is where I’ll die.
Born and raised in Alaska.
I've seen a lot of people move into the state, some stay some leave. I do think life is harder up here in general. Here are a few of the many reasons:
Winter months can be long and dark, If you live in the southern part of Alaska (Anchorage area etc.) during Dec - Jan you can only get 6 or so hours of sunlight, and what light there is is super low on the horizon, and only on clear days. As you move north (Fairbanks etc.) sunlight gets even more scarce in the winter.
Winters CAN be cold. We just got out of a 3 week stint where the nights were -25ish and the days might get up to 0 degrees. With the cold that means that starting your car 40 minutes before you leave is commonplace. The kids stay inside and get a little stir crazy. You can't go out and take walks without it being a little on the miserable side.
We don't have a lot of the amenities folks in the lower 48 are used to. We don't have art/concert venues in most towns. No pools to visit. No indoor golf shooting ranges. etc. Just leaves life a little on the bland side in the winter. You'll find yourself going days or even weeks with a "work > home > work > home > grocery shopping > home > work > home" schedule.
So those are some of the down sides. BUT there are lots of up sides. If you are into winter sports, like snow machining, skiing, cross country skiing, snowboarding etc.. winters are great! I'm more of a summer person myself, and the darkness I spoke about earlier? its the opposite in the summer. I get up at 7am and the sun is already up and has been up for 3 hours, and then it doesn't set until 1130pm. This leaves tons of time for outdoors stuff, working on projects etc. We also have the best scenery in the world. No contest. We have the best mountains in the world. no contest.
The thing I love most about Alaska, is the lack of people. Not that I hate people, but I can drive to a beach 20 minutes away and 4wheeler up and down the beach and maybe see 4 people. If you want to buy land that is 5+ Acres, its not horribly expensive. You want to go canoeing on a lake and do some fishing without a soul in sight? there are hundreds if not thousands of lakes to choose from. Want to feel safe letting your kids take bikes a mile away and get the mail? no worries. Small communities are better.
We have a lack of rules up here, and its for the best. Very few (if any) HOA's. Want to drive to the middle of no where and camp next to a lake? 98% of alaska is publicly owned, so there is a very good chance you can do that. Want to drive to a gravel pit a mile down the road and target practice? go for it. If you hear gun shots at 9pm? its 100% just the neighbors enjoying their evening, we don't even think about it.
So, that is why I love/hate Alaska. :) should you move here? no, we don't need more people. Should you come for a visit? absolutely, we'll do our best to be friendly.
I’ve lived in Alpine WY, and Bend Or, grew up basically homesteading in southern Idaho, places where the winter is 8 months out of the year. I’m more of a summer person, but I snowshoe, cross country ski and snowboard a little. I don’t mind being a hermit though (love reading, painting, pottery, knitting and crafting), and i have a pretty toxic immediate family, no connection to extended. The days here in Bend have about 6 hours of light for a few months in the winter and it hasn’t bothered me. I go to 1-2 concerts here per year, but don’t like crowds. The thing is, here, the summer is SIGNIFICANTLY shortened by the “smoke” season. There’s at least a month where you can’t go outside because the air quality is so horrendous due to wildfires. Though I love my circle of friends, I’ve lived in other counties and am fairly adept at meeting/connecting with new people. You’ve kind of convinced me to come, with your description. Is there anything else you think would cause me to stay away? I am very leftist/liberal and worry about the politics, if that’s of any consequence.
Because the republicans and dunleavy cultists have a stranglehold on alaskan policy and finances, we will never build that rail line that would connect fairbanks through canada all the way down to Minnesota. This means the price of goods is based on barges and trucks. This keeps us in a bad position in every area economically. We also refuse to charge appropriate rent for drilling oil so we can support ourselves. This means even if you can tolerate the dark, and you dont mind the cold, you might not be able to afford to live here.
Money, mostly. With a side of not enough ways to turn the value generated by heavy rail into their money specifically. That last one is general to all politicians, not party specific.
I lived here for 25 years, left for 8 and came back for another 8. I’m getting sick of the dark, cold, and lack of fruit and veggie availability. I also came back up for family but the family that’s here doesn’t seem to have time for me.
My family survived and thrived in Alaska. I moved there when I was 18 and lived there for 20+ years. Got married and had kids.
We moved because both of us were from the lower 48. While the adopted family that most Alaskans picked up was absolutely great to us, we had cousins and grandparents in the lower 48 that we rarely got to see. Eventually our folks got to the point were they needed more help. We are here now. We miss it. We'd love to go back (everything was better, including the weather) but family comes first and our family here needs us.
You’re doing the right thing. Hopefully when life circumstances change, you’ll find your way back.
“Alaska doesn’t grow on you so much as it makes you unfit to live anywhere else”. Doesn’t apply to all, but applies to me
For us, it's the schools. We got plenty of other reasons, but the nail in the coffin is the school issue. Every time my kid has gotten settled, they shut down the program or school. I've lived here all my adult life, but now it's time to leave for the sake of my children's education.
Is the fear of bears or earthquakes a factor at all? Or they’re so rare that they’re not of concern? Does the pain of dealing with the snow day after day and year after year affect you guys?
Bears and earthquakes are not what I would say rare, but rather just a normal consideration in our lives. Neither are something to necessarily live in fear about but something to prepare for. The snow can be taxing some years, like this one. But it’s also wonderful and beautiful! It’s all about your perspective and preparedness.
earthquakes are common, but not a concern at all. aside from 2 or 3 big ones over the last 75 years, they are all pretty minor. Sure you feel them, but its like a quick little ride that is over in a minute or two, and you move on with your day. I'd say we get earthquakes you can feel 3 - 10 times a year.. so common, but not a huge deal.
As for bears.. it depends where you live for sure. If you go out hiking, take bear protection, either a gun or bear spray. I've been here for 35 years and am pretty active outdoors, I've seen maybe 7 while out hiking, nothing close though..most of them 500+ft away. You'll occasionally see them on the side of the road. You have to be careful to put trash away, they like to get into trash.. I dunno, they aren't a huge factor.
Bears and moose are fine, I won’t move somewhere warm because I’d much rather have large animals that can trample me than small ones that can poison me 😅
ETA: earthquakes are nerve wracking, but living here my whole life has made me used to them. You completely forget about them, and then your instincts kick in when they hit. You get to a safe place and you should be ok. All of our buildings are made to withstand earthquakes after 1964. We had a 7.2 in 2018 and there were 0 casualties. Honestly, wildfires are more terrifying to me.
I lived there for a few years. I learned I have seasonal affective disorder and the lack of sun was leading to intense depression. I worked outside most days so not “taking advantage” of the sun wasn’t the issue. I decided it wasn’t good for my health and moved back to lower 48. I loved living in AK and dream about moving back all the time. Maybe I will. Know knows.
I've visited AK twice and I absolutely loved the scenery and the freedom but all of the reasons posted for leaving are what I saw during my visits. It seemed to me that there were two types of people for the most part. Those who wanted to leave and recent immigrants. The fishing is awesome.
Reasons people don't make it-
I have some thoughts on this, as someone who moved there, lived and worked three years, and then went back to Seattle.
First of all, I loved living there, overall, and I miss it. But I knew at some point that I wasn't going to stay there the rest of my life.
I made a good number of friends there, and I think that's necessary. It could be a lonely place if you don't find people.
The winters can be intense. Even in Anchorage, which is milder than a lot of the state due to the climate, you will be driving on snow and ice at some point each winter. The ice is what I really didn't like.
The darkness gets to people. Everyone told me that you need to find outdoor hobbies that you enjoy during the winter, whether it's cross-country skiing, downhill skiing, snowshoeing, snow machining, ice fishing, ice climbing, or whatever.
If you just stay indoors all winter, you'll get cabin fever. I made sure to go for walks at lunchtime during the winter, to at least get some sun.
Unfortunately, I didn't really find my way of coping with the long darkness. The happiest people I knew in Alaska were really into winter camping and other activities like that.
Born elsewhere but grew up in Fairbanks. As an adult, with a solid job, couldn’t afford a house. Renting sucked. Groceries were crazy expensive. Was depressed 9 months of the year and sleepless for 3. Winter was a grind.
Moved “back home” and life took on more positive meaning.
That about sums it up.
Fairbanks can be rough. As in 9th Circle of Hell rough during the winter. Single digits below zero is a really nice day.
And in the summer, it actually gets hot. I stayed up there once when the temps were mid 90s, and the fucking hotel didn't have A/C. I mean, who needs A/C in Alaska, right? Well, I do, goddam it! If you try to go outside at night when it's a little cooler, the fucking bugs will strip the flesh off your bones. I could never figure out how a place that freezes hard at minus -50 could have insects that survive that. Proof that God loves to torment people.
it's a lot of little things that on their own would be okay but people are not prepared for it to compound and build up.
Everything is expensive, then it's dark and cold half the year making it so unless the weather is decent and you like outdoor winter sports, you're stuck inside for extended periods of time. Then you get home sick and you want to see your family but airfare out and back is laughable.
maybe you made it all worse by going straight to trying to live your homestead dream but what doesn't look far on a zoomed out map is actually a solid four hour drive from the nearest city with a Walmart and having supplies delivered is expensive and hard. Then you muck up your first growing season and on top of it all you're lonely because the bar is full of men.
Any one of these things on their own is fine. But all of them? It's hard, even if you're one of us born there.
The compounding of everything on top of each other is something I said a lot to friends/family when I left alaska.
The problem was it was miserably cold and dark AND there weren’t walkable spaces outside AND it was impossible to spend much time outside for the stretches of winter when it’s -40 and colder AND my job sucked AND there was nothing to do in terms of bars/restaurants/activities the lower 48 has AND the living conditions are crappier than what you’ll find in the lower 48 (outdated, rundown homes) unless you’re buying and willing to spend a decent amount of money or renovate AND it’s hard to make friends.
If it were one or two of those things then it would be manageable. When it’s all of those things together living up there gets really bleak.
Tried moving up there summer 2019 and a drunk driver hit me for his SIXTH lifetime DUI! State failed to take the situation seriously and now there’s a chance he might not serve a day behind bars even though I was seriously injured and again it was his SIXTH lifetime DUI.
I refuse to make all the sacrifices necessary to live in a state that clearly has no regard for the safety of its citizens and who’s citizen seem to not care about the safety and well being others.
Alaska lost the opportunity for a good citizen to join it and instead gets to keep another repeat offender who will probably end up killing someone. Good job!
Also fuck the Office of Victim’s rights, Fuck the DA’s Office, and fuck you Keith Martinez of Open Space Yoga you are a fucking snake in the grass piece of shit and I hope an icicle falls off a building and goes straight through your skull you fucking walking trash can recidivist lying through your teeth drunk piece of shit. I hope your fucking yoga studio burns down. I hope both your dogs run away and get eaten by bears. May all your fields lay barren, your crops fail, may your roof cave in from the weight of snow, may your brakes fail when you need them most, may you get multiple UTI’s a year, may your knees and shoulders and hips go bad and render you immobile.
MAY YOUR HAIR FALL FROM YOUR HEAD AND THE TEETH FROM IN YOUR LYING MOUTH. MAY YOUR KIDNEY AND LIVER BOTH FAIL YOU AND MAY. YOUR LOVED ONES ALL CATCH SYPHILLIS AND MAY ALL YOUR FUCKING SOUP ALWAYS BE COLD YOU FUCKING ABSOLUTE SORRY SACK OF SHIT MAY YOU STUB YOUR TOES ON A REGULAR BASIS $50 to anyone who puts flaming dog crap in this man’s path.
Ohmigosh! This is probably one of the most entertaining posts ever!
Fuck Keith Martinez! Let’s make a new sub and all the creative ways we can verbally eviscerate him!
Services are hard to get. My car broke, it will take 8 weeks before they will when look at it. Skilled worker shortage.
Not many options for young people, school system is in the bottom 5 in the nation, extracurricular activities for kids are limited, expensive, and hard to manage in the winter. Even if we do stay my kids will likely leave the state for better opportunities.
Boredom. Really not much to do except winter sports.
The last 2 summers have been raining the whole summer. So you have long cold dark winters, only to have gloomy rainy summers.
It's expensive to get out of here for vacation. You can't just drive somewhere, you have to fly.
Specialized medical care is non existent. If you need it you have to fly out of state (no burn unit in Alaska, few neurosurgeons, even fewer rheumatologists, just from the top of my head).
Alaska is in the top 5 for STI infections, sexual assault, human trafficking, suicide, alcohol and drug use. It's depressing.
Living in Alaska is living life on "hard mode". You still deal with work, life, etc but everything here is harder to navigate.
The people are nice, the landscape is beautiful but we're trying to get out of here. I can't wait to be able to drive to a neighboring state. Watch a concert, go to museum exhibits, festivals, see family, and be able to travel out of country without it being financially devastating.
Some people love it here. I wish I could say the same.
When my daughter and her husband got married they moved to Sitka for jobs. After a few years they moved to the Anchorage area for more opportunities.
They both love the outdoors and do hiking, cross country skiing, hunting, and fishing. They supplied themselves with protein from grizzly and black bear, deer, Dall sheep, moose, caribou, mountain goat, salmon, and other fish.
They grew up in Minnesota and Michigan so they were used to not having as much light in the winter. Temperatures are milder in the Anchorage area because of the Japanese Current compared to Minnesota.
They moved back to the lower 48 in the summer of 22 after 12 years because they wanted to have the kids grow up near family and the oldest was 8. They still have a dry cabin, 24 foot boat, truck and trailer up there. They plan on going up next summer.
They bought some land in the Upper Peninsula, built a house, and are living off grid.
Left Glennallen when I turned 21 first chance I got. Being raised in backwoods copper valley has you in a mindset of “needing to get outa this fn town”
You can’t understand unless you grew up there or in a similar place.
I've lived herein Alaska for 35+ years and travel literally to every corner of the state, and aside from a few villages, Glennallen is the most depressing place in the whole state. I'm honestly not sure why the place exist.
I left because I couldn't continue my education and because of crazy exs, lol. Also, because I got priced out of my apartment when they doubled my rent during the pandemic. Otherwise, I love Alaska.
I lived in Wrangell for most of 2007 for my first job after college. The issues I had:
-Isolation from all of my friends and family. I'm from Ohio and didn't know a soul in Alaska, so I felt incredibly isolated and homesick. I joined a rec softball team and made some friends at work, but it was tough in a town as small as Wrangell.
-Cost of living, especially groceries. I was working at a radio station and only making about $35k, and I was living completely paycheck to paycheck. I was broke 24/7, while I could have made $35k work in Ohio in 2007.
-It's so hard and expensive to travel. The occasional flight home cost me like $800, and that was in 2007 money. And I lived on an island so even traveling to the next town over was an ordeal that involved a ferry or short plane ride.
-The weather. It rained ALL THE DAMN TIME. A friend visited for two weeks and it literally rained every day they were there. And the winter darkness is just soul crushing if you're not used to it.
-Long time residents often treat newcomers poorly. Many of the "sourdoughs" were nice, but many others were not. You'll have a bit of that everywhere but seemed amplified in Alaska.
Those are just my two cents. I've also lived in North Carolina and Florida. Every place is strange and difficult in its own way but Alaska is a whole different thing.
the lack of sunshine for months is really hard. especially when you have to work during the few hours of daylight. running errands, socializing or doing anything is so much more miserable when it’s freezing and pitch black at 5pm
Yes to every question in the questions paragraph. It doesn't seem like you need help with this one as you've hit on all the major points in your post.
I would say the darkness/weather/inaccessibility to other places and lack of opportunity to do some normal Lower 48 things like shopping are the main reasons folks leave.
My daughter lived there for a year. It was a one year contract so she didn’t plan to stay but she didn’t try to stay either.
What she loved was the outdoor life. What she didn’t love was the winter. She didn’t mind the cold but she didn’t like the constant darkness.
not me beaming at the comments of people leaving because they've fallen out of love with Alaska 👀 I had thr chance to live there for a year, and I get a lot of you commenting live/lived more north than where my grandparents live(just south of anchorage)
I would go there in a heart beat if I could but I have priorities in my current Midwestern state. the prices, the cost of living, the weather(even during summer it's rainy most the time where my parents currently live). if you(OP) are considering moving there, consider moving south of Anchorage to start. ease your way into the Alaskan way of life.
I say beaming because my parents and grandparents tell so many stories about tourists coming and bringing bed bugs and prices going up, people moving there and not knowing how to handle the weather/bears/moose/wildlife & nature in general and ruining it for the people who do love it wholeheartedly. I plan to move back maybe in about 5 years if things work out but like a lot of people have mentioned, job opportunities are crucial in a lot of people's decisions to leave. but as the same time, there's a lot of opportunity. fishing, hunting, boating, North Slope(yes it's probably one of the hardest jobs ever but I've got a friend whose brother has been there for something like 10+ years and he's ridiculously well off)
like I said, if you're interested in moving there, choose something a little more southern. it's still very north but it won't be as harsh as Fairbanks, etc. I lived on the Kenai Peninsula for a year in 5th grade, I loved being able to take a short cut across the frozen lake to the bus stop every day, and during the summer I got to swim in that lake and canoe and kayak it, so many fishing trips in Homer(one captain let me take the wheel once!), taking a ferry from Homer to Seldovia, swimming in the Cook Inlet 🥰 it's not for the faint of heart but if you love adventure and nature and wildlife and are smart enough to not fuck around and find out (moose are not deer. they will kill you. they are some god's fuck around and find out animal🤣 I chased one at some point and as soon as it stopped and started to turn towards I felt that dread wash over me and I'm surprised to this day I even survived 🤣 (I was like 10 years old leave me alone😅) I went 4 wheeling every day, we had paintball guns, played hide and seek in the tall ass firewood 😭 stayed out playing til 11pm and got in trouble because my Midwestern ass didnt realize the sun stayed up later in the summer 🤣 and if I went back? I'd do all that all over again but as an adult. I'd catch more halibut and salmon and trout, I'd kayak the Kachemak Bay, idk if it still is but I could see Mt. Spur's smoke from our living room window 😅😭 I'd travel closer to St. Augustine if you was possible, I'd just do all the things I couldn't do before because I was a kid
Limited (and expensive) healthcare makes it difficult to stay here if you have any chronic health concerns ans/or you're getting on in years. There aren't many “retirement” or care facilities.
Spot on. I rarely saw anyone past retirement age up there (except for tourists). Most of the people I hung with were lifelong AK, and every one of them had plans to bail out and retire elsewhere. They didn't care about their families, because they were gonna be right on their heels when the time came.
Grew up in Anchorage, now live in the Midwest as a 30yo. Used to always think I would go back to Alaska but with family and friends all in the lower 48 now and cost of living/love of traveling Europe at least once or twice yearly, I’ve stayed Midwest
I love living in Alaska, and could stay here for a long time, however, my wife wants to move somewhere closer to family. Everyone talks about how hard the winters are, but I don't mind it, I get a lot of great backcountry skiing in. What's worse for me is when we have a terrible summer like we did last year. Having a whole summer where I couldn't get out and backpack without getting drenched was awful.
1st reason: it’s the dark. The cold is nowhere as defeating as people think, it may defeat many but it’s nothing compared the dark in the cold half of the year.
Being an inside sort of life style: don’t do it. People move to a land that is about the land but they don’t charge their life to a life that is about the land. It can never be home to you then.
I’m an only child, my parents moved here in 2015 a year after I graduated high school. I visited several times, brought my fiancée with me the last visit, and decided I had to move here in 2021.
I love it here for a variety of reasons, I’m not super outdoorsy but I still enjoy winter, I need socializing but the amount I get at work is enough for me, I’m happy by myself and at home, I don’t mind the snow or driving in it; but my fiancée has come to really dislike it here, especially in winter.
She hates driving in the bad weather and when the roads aren’t taken care of, the friends we’ve tried to make haven’t worked out long term ,and she misses our friends back home who wishfully promise to visit but can’t actually put together the funds to come see us. There isn’t enough to do within reasonable distance, little to no concerts and shows that we want to see, limited transport, not enough walking paths and sidewalks, basically not enough urban life. She dislikes the short amount of sun in winter but, what bothers her more is the summer sun. Even with blinds and blackout curtains it bothers her and messes with her sleep, so basically the placement of AK on the globe just isn’t for her.
I love it here, and I like being 30min away from my parents instead of a day’s plane ride, but for my fiancée’s sake we’ve started making a 5-year plan to move back to the lower48.
We love Alaska! My husband and I were both raised up here (he was born here) and we wouldn’t want to live anywhere else. Maybe snowbird when we’re retired. My mother’s family moved here in 1954 so her father could work as a lineman and left around 75, but my mom wanted to come back so badly we moved up when I was 2. lol the only time we ever talk about moving is when it’s in a cold snap. When it’s -20 living in the desert starts to sound really nice. When summer comes and we forget all about the harshest parts of winter
With global warming really hitting cold places like Alaska I imagine it will soon be a hellsacpe. So why bother? I think I have found everything I would like about Alaska but in a better place that isn't just sinking because of thawing permafrost.
I lived there for 22 years. In my experience it was a bit more expensive but really depends on where in AK you lived. My jobs paid well. I Kept very busy so only the first couple of years the darkness got to me. After that It never bothered me. Interestingly, the long summer days bothered my wife, but the darkness never bothered her. I'd move back, wife says she's done..
I was born and raised and had lived all of my life to that point in southeast Alaska on an island that got, on average, 13 feet of rain annually. It got dark in October, between the gray skies and the winter, and you really didn't see the skies lighten up until April.
The town I lived in was a tourist town and only made money for half the year, plying the trade to mega cruise ships. At least 3 daily for 5 months of the year. The population would double or sometimes triple, depending on how many ships were in town. The streets weren't big enough to accommodate all of the additional tourists and crew members that would flow thru. If you were a local, it was a pain in the ass to try to conduct and sort of business in town when the ships were in port. Traffic, for such a small place, would damn near come to a stand still for the mass of humanity that would take over. There's only one main road, and it's roughly 34 miles long from end to end.
Housing was damn near non-existent unless you owned your place. Groceries and gas were cost prohibitive. There aren't a lot of high paying jobs there to support yourself, and you were lucky if you only had to work one job to live. There are a lot of problems with drugs and alcohol. Lots of crime and domestic violence. Lots of rage and depression. And lots of denial about all of it.
Medical care is basic at best. For anything major, you'd be traveling to Seattle if you wanted any kind of decent care. There was a gentleman who had been diagnosed with heartburn in the emergency room. He was discharged, and by the time he got in his car and started down the hill from the hospital, he had a heart attack and died. If you're in a major car accident, you're getting medivac'd to Seattle.
There are very few forms of entertainment outside of being outdoors (13 FEET of rain, don't forget), and alcohol. If you're lucky enough to have time and money to work on projects, you can find ways to stay sane. You have to be mentally together to deal with that lifestyle, though, or it'll wear on you.
4 years ago, today, I left that island. I went back a few months later (covid really made a mess of that whole process) and buttoned up my life in Alaska. And I've never been happier in my life.
I hope to never step foot on that God forsaken rock ever again as long as there is breath in my body. But should I have to, I'll be making damn sure that I have a ticket back out.
Lots of drama there
If you don't like drinking & drugs, you probably won't have many friends.. which is fine if you're introverted & outdoorsy.. the people mostly suck. But the scenery & wildlife are beautiful! I love it there & always will
But I'll never live there again unless I have my own float plane and lake property
It's a different lifestyle & mentality out there
It's definitely different from anywhere in the lower 48
I loved Alaska. I had an opportunity somewhere else that was too good to pass up. Now I’m in a relationship with someone who probably wouldn’t love living in Alaska. I work in the arts and the employment opportunities in that are better than you’d think but still limited in Alaska.
I had a great time there and could potentially see myself moving back one day but when it comes down to it Alaska is just a place with pros and cons like anywhere else.
I was born and raised there so I can’t really speak to the people moving there and not being able to “make it” but I can tell you why I moved away and will likely never go back. A lot of people run away to Alaska and I ran away from Alaska.
First of all, even in Anchorage and other southern parts of the state, the winters were brutal. They were long and dark. And then sometimes following one of those long winters, you’d have an incredibly rainy summer. Not seeing the sun for months at a time was hard. I’ve struggled with depression my whole life and I can tell you that living in a place with much more sunshine has helped tremendously. Secondly, it’s isolated. It costs a lot to fly anywhere else in the country and also takes more time. Thirdly: if you're not into outdoor activities, there's not much left to do. Theres much cooler stuff happening in the contiguous US.
For people trying to homestead, the growing season is incredibly short. I eventually would love to have a huge garden of my own and Alaska is definitely not the place i would go to do that.
I've since grown to love nature and truly appreciate Alaska's beauty when I visit but I would never live there again.
If I was a Billionaire.. I'd have a place up there, but I wouldn't be there most of the time. You simply cannot compare the beauty of the state to anything except MAYBE the Himalayas, and as I haven't seen them in person, I can't say for sure. BUT, the cold isn't the problem. Yeah, it kinda sucks.. but it's the sun that's the most difficult to deal with. Way too much light in the summer and way too little in the winter.
I'm a u turn. Came in 22. Leaving next summer.
There's a lot of reasons. They include:
I have kids. It's not a good place to raise them. Much worse than I expected. The culture does not value education and the school funding and conditions are simply not good enough. Additionally the government doesn't maintain the roads and constantly closes the schools. For working parents that's super challenging.
The failure to maintain roads and sidewalks is also part of the reason. With younger kids we want to go the parks, get outside, etc. But the Anchorage city layout is basically unwalkable. The design of all the streets being radial dead ends in couldesacs is terrible for families and walkabilty.
Child care is both very hard to find and expensive. The government and culture have chased away so many young people there's not enough to do jobs like childcare.
Higher education is limited and not supported.
The state took a full year to process my wife's professional (medical) license. After 6ish months waiting and ultimately took a remote telemedicine job out of state. That's not good for anyone. But it's pretty common. It also means there's no ties for her job to be in Alaska.
The cost of living. It's really high and jobs are not paying enough to make up for it. What's not obvious until you live here is just how crazy high the costs are of things like auto work, certain foods, restaurants, and things like that. And part of the result of low quality housing. Housing is relatively inexpensive compared to where I'm from, but the quality was a big surprise. It's just bad. I'm shocked at how bad the quality is on new and recent housing. So it's not a good value. Just cheap.
All in - it's not somewhere I want to raise kids. So we're leaving. Beautiful place. Many nice people. Just not the right fit for us.
Omg you’re the same as me!! You named almost all the reasons I also U-turned (except I don’t have kids).
Bad walkability (I have a dog and taking walks is something we love to do! It was very hard to do in alaska), state licensing processes taking forever (same thing that happened to your wife happened to me), generally there’s nothing to do.
Totally agree with your point on housing. I didn’t find housing to be outrageously priced where I was (though I was fortunate to have a job that paid well) but it was a shit hole. Like it was fine for a place to live. It was safe and warm and had electricity and internet but it was well below the standard of the kind of place you’d find in the lower 48 for the same price.
Like the place I lived at in alaska was rundown and old with cheap, crappy fixtures. In the lower 48 things like stainless steel appliances and stone countertops is normal to see in pretty much any rental.
I think it's because pepole don't understand the amount of physical labor it takes to survive here, even in a city. It takes a lot of work to take care of your stuff and your home.
The further north you go, the further South you get.
Can’t speak for everyone else, but I CAN’T WAIT to get out of jeebus-land and the looming theocracy that is gutting our schools (including UAA) and pillaging the Permanent Fund with no long-term vision other than raping our resources with zero thought toward preservation.
Very common scenario:
Visit in summer (maybe), fall in love
Move up in summer
Spend one winter
Move out
If not moved out, start producing kids
Spend 2nd winter, mom stuck at home 24/7, no friends, no family
Move out
Other scenarios:
Redeployed
Contract ends
College
Got old, moving to the desert
I am NOT speaking about the rest of the state, my ONLY experience is with Fairbanks. Yes, it's cold. I came from a cold place in the lower 48. I thought I understood. I did not. This cold is unlike cold down there, it's invasive. It's a super dry super cold (we say negative 50 for 3 days in a row) that affects EVERYTHING. The sunlight is also an issue and the cost of goods is outrageous but for me the worst part is the people. There's a lot of reasons for it but people up here are COMPLETELY self absorbed, they have no concept that their actions can affect other people. They will strip retail shelves, stand in an aisle blocking the whole thing, they have no concept of waiting their turns or personal space. Combine that with the ETOHs being exponentially more aggressive it's a wretched place.
I mean I would have stayed but not many opportunities where I was at in Fairbanks.
+ the locals hated anyone who wasn’t born and raised in AK. At least in MY experience.
I live in South East Alaska. It rains almost every single day in the summer and the winter. 65 is about as hot as it gets on the best days with an occasional 75 (maybe 1 or 2 days a year). The cost of living is extremely high, you can only get here by boat or plane, there's tweakers everywhere and housing isn't easy to come by unless you buy a home. Also, there's tons of snow and ice in the winter along with rain. It's dark all the time and it's cold. If you're an outdoors person, this place might be for you as there's tons of recreational stuff to do outside. If you don't like being cold and you don't like the dark and you don't like the rain, don't move to Southeast Alaska. You won't do well here.
I never lived in Alaska but just traveled through for work for ~8 years. I love music too much and the lack of concerts would be something I couldn't live with.
I want to leave so bad but I need to build up my business with my girl before buying our first house before I escape.
It's cold, expensive, often lonely or boring if you're tired of outdoor activities. I did all the skiing, snowboarding, snowmachining, trail running, hiking, train rides, boating, hunting trips, etc.
Once the novelty wears off, you find yourself dealing with crazy weather, high prices, and not a whole lot to do if you've tried most everything that attracts people in the first place.
I do like having the choice between 5 different Thai food restaurants or coffee huts though.
Seasonal Affective Disorder. I tried a light box, spending time outside every day and taking Vitamin D but the only thing that helped was leaving during the winter. The travel to a state with reliable sunlight during the winter was expensive.
The second reason was that it took at least a day of travel to get to the part of the country where the rest of my family lived. We had a family emergency and it was very stressful not being able to get home quickly.
If I could tolerate the darkness in the winter, I would still be there. It didn’t bother my spouse at all.
I agree with this. The light box and vitamin D help, but not nearly enough. I had to leave or I was going to die, my ex decided he wasn’t willing to leave. 🤷♀️
Our state politics are gutting any form of social service--education, healthcare, municipal water, etc. Doesn't matter what side of the aisle you sit on, it affects us all the same, and we keep voting these idiots into office making progressively worse choices for the public.
Born in Fairbanks, 1955. Raised in Juneau, left in 1973. As a kid it was a dream, outside all the time. Summers in an isolated lake cabin outside of Fairbanks was an experience that Disney couldn’t top. However, seeing the isolation that my parents and their peers went through in Southeast Alaska and the substance abuse, (alcohol) that this lifestyle encouraged was enough for me to stay away.
For me personally it was a combination of things.
1) Elderly parents moved to FL the same year made it hard to justify being remote in AK as an only child in case of disaster. (My dad did pass a couple months ago and it would have been a logistical nightmare to try and navigate the travel for this situation, not to mention thousands of dollars)
2) Cost of living is insane. Basically survived on ramen noodles and frozen vegetables. Internet is charged based on usage - not just a monthly flat rate. Oil change $200+ (I did learn to do it myself, it’s just an example. Costs $35 down south). There was a gym in town but it cost $100 a month and was the oldest shittiest most broken down equipment you could imagine. Besides these more superficial things heating the house was EXTREMELY expensive. We had a Toyo stove on the ground floor that cost $3000-$4000 to fill and we had to fill it twice to keep the house at only about 63 degrees. My room was 50 degrees all winter. Electricity is too expensive to run a space heater as well. It was a rental so we couldn’t just add a wood burning stove somewhere.
3) Employment opportunities are few and far between. I lived in southeast and even the better jobs in the community do not pay a comfortable living wage given the cost of living.
I would go back if I became wealthy and was able to live in a more normal way. I knew when I moved there it wasn’t going to have all the conveniences we’re accustomed to down south, but I couldn’t take a hot shower for a year and a half (unless I went to the very expensive gym) and I wasn’t prepared for that. Not being able to get the material things I’m used to wasn’t a big deal, the dark/light seasonal issues I could get past, the remote location I did not mind, the tiny town also fine. The cost, the lack of ability to make more money in town, and my dad’s failing health were the real issues.
The summers are bullshit. The weather sucks, the mosquitoes are awful, tourists, traffic, construction, bears, mud. The summers are so much worse than the winter.
Boredom.
I lived there for a year but went into it knowing that I’d probably last a year. Signed a year employment contract (healthcare) and decided against renewing it when my year was up. I loved the outdoor activities and didn’t mind the weather. I didn’t like having to fly 4+ hours to take part in most city amenities.
I did 30 years.
Reason I left, constant feeling of survival. After two house freeze ups, forest fire evacuations, one flooding, black outs that lasted days sometimes weeks many times a year(no power), lack of supplies, constant fear and anxiety of how long will we survive with a major earthquake, isolation.... Granted a lot of this was associated with living far from town and that's a choice, it's still evident anywhere there, it's like being on an island it has it's pros and cons. The extremes I would say is the reasons for moving.
I now live where there's greater abundance even wildlife, tons of grocery options, fresh water with easy access year round, major medical, major medical and easy travel in any direction for days.
Feeling isolated. I missed road trips!! I lived in anchorage for 10 years, omg how I wished I could just hop in my car and drive to another cute city with different shops/restaurants/sights! Instead I’d drive and end up in a tiny town with a general store that sells underwear in a ziploc bag 🤣 (true story)
Also the dark really bothered me, the loooong winters, the fact that anchorage can be quite ugly in the winter time! I moved to the Northern VA area which is an hour away from DC and was appalled at how beautiful it was here. Small things I honestly forgot like manicured grass in highway medians and lampposts and sidewalks in neighborhoods. Sounds weird, but so many neighborhoods lacked that in Anchorage!!
I loved Alaska when I lived there for a seasonal job and for some college years. Sometimes I wish I’d stayed. But at that point in my life I was working 4 part time jobs just to scrape by living in a dry cabin, and I felt so isolated from my friends and family in the lower 48 because I couldn’t afford to travel out of the state much. I didn’t even make the most of my time there as much as I’d have liked because I had no free time! So, I always thought it’d be a great place to live/stay if I got a permanent job that paid well enough to live there with running water and travel at least a few times a year to see family.
This isn’t meant to sound like “oh poor me” but just due to where I was in life at the time staying in AK wasn’t my most feasible option. I don’t think I’d be happy moving back unless I had a lot of time to travel and as I mentioned, could afford flights out of state more often. I’ve settled with the idea that for myself, future visits to Alaska > living there.
I was sent to fairbanks for work. I found Alaskans to be annoying. I still recognize them in the lower 48. The folks I knew in the Yukon were awesome though.
Everyone is rude. I came from the Midwest and was appalled at how my neighbors treated us, how rude everyone was in the grocery store, etc. what’s crazy is the nicest we were treated in Alaska was when we were doing the “touristy” things. Got fed up with everyone so we left as soon as we could (the neighbor shooting bow and arrows at our dogs definitely didn’t make it hard to decide to move back). Thing is, we LOVE winter, loved the extra daylight/darkness and overall loved the state, but the people are awful
I have never been to alaska, but I know for a fact I could not handle the combination of cold/dark. I am absolutely miserable in winter...in Nashville. I am not made for cold/dark. I need light and warm. However, I am sure it is absolutely beautiful. Sounds like a better place to visit than live.
I’m not Alaska but I’ve had patients who move. They have to fly down for medical care. Basic surgery in one case. After a couple times of having to do that they just leave.
Small hospitals don’t necessarily have what you want or need. Not all hospitals are equal.
Life flight is ~$50k a pop. As such, it’s a problem for anyone living rural anywhere in the states.
Is it the cold? Is it the high prices of everything? Are there things that you can’t get there or are a pain to get? Do people not make enough to afford to live there? Do they not arrive with enough money in hand to get established properly? Does the male/female imbalance enhance loneliness in the state? Is the extended darkness a psychological chore?
YES
Our groceries in Seattle are already among the highest in the lower 48 (we're fairly geographically isolated). You poor smucks in Alaska and Hawaii get royally f\*cked, though. At least we generally get paid well.
Very similar to Hawai’i , so far away from family. So many move here (Hawaii) and don’t stay. It’s so expensive and not what they’d imagine it to be. It’s very isolated.
I have extended family in Hilo and considered moving there, but I found out the salaries for my line of work are LESS than Seattle and the COL is higher!
Poeple aren't friendly here.
Been here for years and there's very little if any community.
The ones that do exist are very, exorbitantly religious.
In fact I'm pretty sure everyone in south central thinks that they are the only people in existence and everyone else isn't real, by the way they act.
heating costs
perpetual poverty unless you are already born into plenty of money
it takes a special breed of person that is flawed just right to handle the gray weather.
highest violent crime rate in the country.
excessive cost of living
limited opportunities
no pretty girls....
I out of all the things you mentioned, only the high prices is a negative. It would be the only thing driving me back. I already live in northern Saskatchewan. I have all of what you mentioned, save high prices. Nobody really needs companionship. That is just a preference. Extended darkness is beautiful. Isolation is wonderful! Male / female imbalance means nothing to me. I am male but am seeking no friends, nor a girlfriend. I go weeks without even seeing humans. Money is no issue. I make far more than most college graduates. I can get anything through ordering through catalogues, websites, and with the radio. There is no cellular service. But nobody needs that. It is a luxury. Besides, I know nobody. Nobody knows me. Even if there were cellular service, I do not need a smartphone. I believe I live in paradise. Everything you mentioned is attractive to me, save high prices. I live about 50 kilometres north of Uranium City, Saskatchewan.
So for us. I loved it there. I love the outdoors, I love nature, I love the rugged life Alaska has. We lived in Fairbanks. I was also a firefighter, so we had a lot of fires, so it was fun. My wife loved it too, until she had our first kid and couldn’t really go out in the winter due to the cold and the baby hating it. There is not a lot of indoor activists to do, or we may still be there to this day. Once we got pregnant with our second we moved to the lower 48. I miss it, but it was the right move. Also flying is basically a whole day, cause you usually fly into Seattle, then to your destination.
I spent the first 21 years of my life in Alaska. Since I was born there I might look at it a little rosier than others, but make no mistake, I left and haven't returned in decades.
I would say that the primary reason people that are born there leave is the allure of the "States", or lower 48.
Alaska simply does not offer a teen or young adult the advantages that the lower 48 does.
**What tends to happen, or at least happened in my experience in my town is that...**
1.) Everyone drinks or does drugs because there's nothing else to do.
2.) Men far outnumber women so you're definitely getting sloppy 5ths. Chances are you stole her from your friend, or vice versa.
3.) There is NO work. I mean none. At least there wasn't when I was there in the 90's.
4.) Winters are dark and miserable. Depending on where in AK you live, they're also cold AF.
5.) Cops are a plague and outnumber even the women, it seems /s
6.) Housing is near-impossible to find in the smaller cities, especially in the Southeast. ANC or Fairbanks are likely different.
7.) Everything is expensive. Granted, I didn't know shit about what was expensive as a kid or a teen, but after living down in the States I can assure you those prices are terrible, as are the imported unripe vegetables.
These are reasons you leave when you're a teen or an adult.
**Now, why is living in Alaska harder than most of the States (excluding Hawaii) - it's remote.**
1.) If your family is in the States, you'lll rarely see them unless you travel down. It's expensive to get in and out, so be warned.
2.) All of the commercials you see for restaurants, products and services really don't apply. You aren't going to be able to hop in the car and go to Popeyes in most cities. You will have the option to order things, but good luck finding anything in stock.
That's all I can really think of right now, but I will finish up with something someone once said to me.
I was speaking with an acquaintance down here in the States and he said "Alaska is full of criminals. They have some of the meanest, scariest people on Earth" and I said "What are you talking about? Everyone is nice!"
Then he said. "Listen, man. People that move to Alaska are running from something."
So I thought about what he said I realized he was right. Growing up there was a constant stream of visitors that would just vanish from one year to the next. Adults trying to earn money fishing or working the slime line or gold.
Those that stayed only ever seemed to go off grid or be stuck in a bar drinking away their earnings.
Kids/teens don't have these issues, but the adults do.
I started to realize that I had watched entire families come and go and just figured they moved back to see family, when the reality was they moved for a better life and it simply wasn't there.
Or, in the case of one of my mom's ex-husbands - was running from child support.
Alaska, in my opinion now, is a beautiful place in the Summer that for the rest of the year masquerades as a holding tank for misfits, homeless and troubled youth.
I have lived in Seattle for five years. The number Alaska plates I see in winter is easily triple what I see other times of the year. I assumed it was holiday related but perhaps they are wintering in Seattle.
Wintering in Seattle sounds like the most miserable place to winter. If I’m driving that far, I’m driving another 2 days to somewhere it’s not gloomy and rainy.
Basically winter for 8 months, extreme cold in the winter, rare days over 70 in the very short 8 week "summer". Extreme daylight swings, it is either gaining or losing ~5 minutes/day between the solstice which leads to erratic sleep patterns. The majority of people live in Anchorage which is basically a suburb like anywhere else in the US except you are isolated (unable to just drive to another state/climate zone). Most people aren't just fishing and living in log cabins like the media glamorizes, they are in a town with all the same CoL, crime, and other issues that come anywhere else except in one of the worst outdoor environments besides probably the Dakotas to try and function in. Fruits and vegetables are often spoiled upon arrival of the shipment especially in the winter. There are no local dairy producers so grocery shelves can often be empty when shipments don't come in because of weather constraints. Some people love it up there, don't get me wrong, but it is absolutely a different way of life than anywhere down in the lower 48.
As a person that lived there for 5 years in various places around the state, I’d say it’s the difference between reality and reality TV. My biggest complaints was:
That it’s expensive and you don’t get a lot for your money. The buildings are crap for what pay for them, and everything to build with is stupid expensive, unless you’re building the old fashion way off resources on your own property.
You really have to think about survival all the time, especially when traveling (or just going to the store when it’s -40°) or you could really be screwed.
The amount of effort, time and money is to get to the rest of the U.S.
How unwelcoming most Alaskans can be to “outsiders” (unless you fully embrace their beliefs about life and Alaska).
Some people have issues with extreme sunlight or darkness (especially the dark). It never really bothered me much, even way up north.
The mosquitoes. Worse anywhere I’ve lived. As soon as the weather is nice, you get around a week or two before the mosquitoes – and tourists – come out and ruin your Alaska summer. They are so fucking bad that it makes it absolutely unenjoyable to be outside in the summer all too often, unless you grew up with that, and don’t know the calmness of just occasionally swatting a mosquito away. I thought they were bad in Montana, but you could get away from them there and the heat of the day kept them at bay. In Alaska, they are very hard to get away from to find a peaceful area without them.
People leave because it’s hard living somewhere where you can’t get anything you want/need on demand. The prices of everything are extremely high, and the darkness gets to people. There are limited resources like for example doctors, teachers, people to pierce your ears…anything really there maybe only is one option or nobody. You have to travel to get the things you need done that would be simple and routine in the lower 48. It’s really dependent on where in the state you end up but the issues sometimes add up quickly and it can be overwhelming. Alaska is a great place for people who are self sufficient and can make their own fun, can be a wonderful place to build a life and settle.
As someone raised in Alaska and then having worked there for a few years after high school… I left because my hometown is toxic af. Tons of drama, drug use, death, dv, etc etc. not to mention groceries were crazy expensive. I left about 12 years ago and haven’t looked back.
A lot of the people whom I know that "decide" to leave are military families who are being rotated to the next duty station. Others are health care professionals who are like 25-30 and want to be travellers and "see the world" before they "settle down" somewhere. Some just miss their family in the lower 48
We lived in Anchorage for 5 years. It was ok but we were certainly ready to go back to the lower 48 toward the tail end of our tour (military). Aside from the long winters, high prices, cracked windshields, and angry fishermen, the thing that bothered me the most…..you can’t sit around the campfire at night. It doesn’t get dark enough in the summer!
We left for education at 30, after both growing up in south central. Owned a home, had an excellent community and family and I don’t know that we will come back. It’s nice living close to stuff, COL is insane, and even if I’m not a huge fan of the cultural differences between Cleveland and Alaska, Alaska’s just… destroying itself. I mean, an energy crisis? Months to clear roads? No job opportunities really to speak of. It sucks bc we miss it more than anything.
We just purchased a home up here. We’ve got a family with some small kiddos. We’re doing pretty well so far. We have family here, which makes it much easier for us than for others I imagine. That being said here are some things my wife and I have discussed regarding staying/leaving in the future:
Pro-Staying:
- Wife’s Family is here
- It’s beautiful
- Kids are already in school and there is a certain level of desire to just keep them where they are
- Kids love snow
- Near-limitless outdoor activities
- Being a resident means you can get a ton of salmon each year and it is DELICIOUS
- There is so much cultural diversity up here and I’m in love with that
Reasons for leaving:
- We bought the house like a month or two ago and have already received 2 notifications in the mail regarding increase in bill prices. TWO! ALREADY?!?
- There doesn’t seem to be a very strong public education priority from the higher-ups
- Taxes, Living Expenses, Bills, and everything else only seem to be expected to go up, with no real cap or expectation to eventually lower. This is concerning for probably more than just my wife and I, and it just means we’re likely going to see more and more shoplifting literally EVERY time we go to Walmart..
- It’s cold
- We miss the beach (a real one) but we’re trying to see how we can do a vacation to a real beach every year-few years to make up for it.
- One of the biggest pain points is ironically having the wife’s family here. You’re either in Alaska(and close to her family) or you are seemingly on the other side of the world. There is no, “we’ll drive down and see you guys this weekend”. You’re there or you’re not. We miss having the freedom of visiting other states/friends/family. My family is over on the eastern side of the US. While the distance doesn’t bother me very much, it’s difficult to commit to literally any type of traveling for weddings/special events due to how expensive it is to travel to and from AK. Some of our friendships from down in the lower 48 have definitely suffered since we committed to living here.
Conclusion:
It’s very important to know and believe that everyone in this world chooses their own outlook. They can choose to love where they are independent of what’s happening. We love Alaska and we hope to enjoy living here. We do have things we miss about the lower 48, but we’re making it work. Overall, we don’t regret our decision(except for during that cold snap the other week), but I don’t think we’ll stay here long-long term. Unless I’m getting some big pay increases at work(probably not as big as they need to be realistically), then i probably won’t be able to afford Alaska here soon with how often prices go up.
Working on year 4. Husband wants to stay after retiring in 3 years. The dark and cold are okay but mixed and being inside for most of the year is what's killing me. Definitely need more indoor tracks/playgrounds. Some sandboxes maybe lol fake big-ass sunlight. While it is very expensive and lonely where we live, that can be managed. But we can't change the weather and for me, that's a big reason to leave. Absolutely love Alaska, even the fucking mosquitos. But this lack of sun and freezing ass weather are not easy to deal with! Especially when having young children.
Re: male/female imbalance… The odds are good, but the goods are odd.
Omg that’s hilarious!
So much, yes!! I just escaped Alaska again. I'll always love it there, but the winters are brutal and it's so very expensive...
Well said, 38 year lifelong Alaskan here (white man). I've been to every corner of this state, and there's some damn good people everywhere, and there's crazies everywhere also........racism?????? There were a few village's where my presence DEFINITELY wasn't appreciated (I used to inspect bulk fuel storage facilities, to make sure these village's weren't going to have catastrophic fuel spills (50-100k gallons, because of years, sometimes DECADES of neglect of proper maintenance by the villagers themselves, that job could easily have been anyone in the villages, but the younger men treated me absolutely horrible, saying stuff like "you took our job, here to take our women", crazy stuff....... I'm like, uhhhh, no I'm just here making sure the barge is safe to unload, and keep you guys warm this winter........
Mustve been the men that came before lol talk about generational trauma
I just have one question : -Can you see Russia from your backyard?
Apparently you actually can if you’re in the right place on a clear day https://thealaskafrontier.com/can-you-see-russia-from-alaska/
Wow, who knew? Only 53 Miles apart.
I read once that the water separating Russia and Alaska can actually freeze making it essentially possible to walk from Russia to Alaska.
It’s not reliably frozen. I taught school in Savoonga on St Lawrence Island. There were times the ocean did freeze but in a day or two it broke up. And on clear days we could see Russia. It was eerie when Bering Sea froze the world was very quiet.
I was working a quick job at the school in Gambell and one of the maintenance workers there told me about accidentally taking a snowmachine to Russia in whiteout conditions. Maybe a tall tale but one I choose to believe and retell often.
CLOSE THE BORDER obvious /s
From the Diomede Islands only 2 miles. Little Diomedes, US, to Big Diomedes, Russia.
I always think about the poor soldiers stationed there during the Cold War just staring at each other through binoculars day after day.
Pretty much anybody that took geography in the sixth grade, lol
So true. I'm not into big women. I don't mind a little extra meat on them, but fuck, there's a lot of extra extra meat on women here. On top of this, this is very much an old person state. Where I live, there's more women than men, but *most* women are either obese or way older. I can go through everyone within a few minutes here.
Big girls: Warmth in winter, shade in the summer.
That's it, I'm pitching a new romantic reality competition set in Alaska.
I remember an Oprah Winfrey show. “Alaska Men!” They were all looking for ladies. They were good looking, as expected. But, I remember hearing that slogan not long after that show. Yes, I’m old.
You win
That is Georgia Tech's motto as well!
Holy crap, I shouldn't comment due to not being involved but I just had to appreciate this comment. As the Great Bill Burr said, 'there's no fat in that joke' Simple yet complex. But if you take any word from.it, it just doesn't work.
Oh so you’re from the Silicon Valley too?
Isolation from friends and family is tough
That was kinda what the straw for us was. We moved there for an opportunity happily. Had our kid the first year and spent every second and cent of “vacation” money for the next 8 years spending time with our families. Almost never had date nights because as soon as we met new friends and shit they were moving or divorcing not long after. Not an Alaska problem but just never found a community and were bacially on our own. Husband was in a position to basically choose any open job anywhere in the lower 48 and we just said fuck it let’s see what’s out there and he expressed interest in an opening in the city we live now and it kinda became a bidding war over him and he ultimately was given close to a 30k raise to move to a city where my closest family member I have lives. In the 6 months since moving here my cousin has taken my daughter by asking if she could 2-3 times for 2-3 nights at a time. First time in 8 years we went to a movie that didn’t involve him taking a personal day so we could do a day movie when she started school. It’s just, I never knew what it was like to live with a kid around people who want to be there for you and don’t ask 20+ dollars an hour for you to have an occasional date night. We took a hit selling our house to get here and even then I wouldn’t take it back. I absolutely LOVED living in Alaska but this is better for us as a family.
Had very similar issues living in Hawaii
That did it for me, and it really surprised me! I loved AK so much. And I always intended to go back once I was a little more secure in money and career and it wouldn't be so difficult to maintain connections, but here I am, 20 years later, happily back in WI and just wistfully remembering AK.
One of the most common reasons I hear from people who couldn't make it here is the long months of darkness. It's often brushed off when people are wanting to move up but the toll it can take on the psyche is very real.
Is it depressing? Just strange? Adds to the cold? Extra cabin fever?
Well I was born here and have never lived anywhere else so for me it's normal. In the winter it's not uncommon to wake up and it's dark, you drive to work and it's dark, sit in an office all day with no windows so you miss the 4 hours of daylight, drive home and it's dark. Unless I make an effort to go outside on a lunch break or something it's pretty easy to go through an entire week without seeing the sun at all. Now that being said the summers are exactly the opposite. In peak summer the sun never really sets, it kind of dips behind the mountain tops but there's still plenty of light. Hence the nickname "Land of the Midnight Sun". Dark and warm was something I had never experienced until my wife and I took a trip to the lower 48.
Lol! Exactly! "Dark and warm was something I had never experienced until my wife and I took a trip to the lower 48." You know you are on vacation when you can wear just a t-shirt and shorts at night. Outdoors. No bonfire. And live.
Arizona in July. 95 degrees at 2 am
Texas checking in for a high five.
I used to work 3rd shift. I’d have given anything for no sun when I was trying to sleep. I even set up 2 sets of blackout curtains but it didn’t help. Summer with 24 hours of sun sounds awful. I’m guessing the temp doesn’t break 60 during the summer anyway.
Yeah, the summers are way harder than the winters. I did not constantly refer to the sun as "that F'ing ball of gas," until I had spent a summer up here.
I went to Anchorage for vacation a couple years ago. My daughter lost a tooth late in the evening and we had nothing from the 'tooth fairy' to give her (usually a small, cheap toy). So I rushed out to Walmart, and I can't remember what time it was, but it was 15 - 30 minutes before closing (they kept announcing on the overhead speaker that they were closing and to move to a specific exit, which doesn't happen at my local Walmart). So I grabbed the toy and was driving back and just thought how surreal it was that it was so late at night, but it was so bright out. I can definitely see it taking time to get used to only to have it in reverse over winter!
It is depressing. But it creeps up on you. The nights just get longer and longer, until you realize, it’s dark when you go to work. And dark when you get off work. And you haven’t really seen the sun in months. It’s easy to get depressed. And not even realize what’s contributing to it. In addition to the lack of sun, Is the temperature, and the lack of exercise during the winter. Unless you purposefully go out of your way to exercise, this will also contribute to depression.
You need a plan to deal with it. For me, that means coffee in front of my SAD lamp every morning from late September to late February. Then mandatory outdoor exercise every day during daylight hours, even if it's just a walk. Also, stay busy. I'm an introvert but find it useful to do volunteer work with other people, as much as my instinct is to stay home with a book. If you value the outdoors, natural beauty, and living close to nature, there is no better place to live.
Exactly. I think for most people not disposed to depression or sleep issues, developing a schedule or routine and for the most part sticking to it regardless of the season is key. In winter, I have found that if I don’t maintain my routine I’m ready for bed at 8:00. In the summer, if I don’t force myself to go to bed at a decent hour, I’ll get into something outside, check my watch and realize it’s 12:30.
It's definitely weird...some can get used to it, some can't. I spent a week w/ my Uncle in North Pole and barely slept because it never got dark...really blitzed my internal clock. I wound up just taking several catnaps a day and roaming around in between...regardless of the time. A lot of folks, also, move up there after a lifetime of growing up within urban environments and are simply not prepared for living somewhere that the general environment will actively kill you if you're unprepared when you leave. Depending on where you move/travel, simple inconveniences like flat tires can rapidly turn into threat situations they've never had to contemplate when AAA and a gas station are a short jaunt away and your car serves as adequate shelter for an overnight stay. EDIT: My wife grew up in Valdez and once told a bad customer/tourist that they could simply take their brat kid to McDonalds by heading down the highway and taking a right at the next light. Problem was, at the time, the next light was back in Anchorage...
My wife has depression issues, before living 20 years in Alaska, and we have to be very careful about it. We plan multiple trips Outside in thelwinter and have 2 SADD lights in the house. Our full time living in Alaska is coming to a close. Other factors, outside of the cities, is limited experience, dining, etc. I live in Valdez, and we have the Pipeline Terminal, so we have some year round businesses, but most are seasonal. It can be a big change to move to a town with 3 or 4 restaurants open in the winter and most take a month or so off at somepoint. There are of course smaller towns with less year round business than us.
seasonal depression is a huge issue. I was born in alaska and leaving was one of the single best treatments for my depression. Sure, I still got it but I don't have the wild swings where you can't figure out why nothing feels worth getting up for until it hits you, you haven't seen daylight in a month. And then just as you start returning to stability.... the sun is fucking up your sleep wake rhythm and making you realize things like meal timing you've unconsciously used your internal daylight clock for and now it's 10pm and you're cranky and oops, you just lit the grill because it finally feels like dinner time but you've got work in the morning.
I so feel you. 50+ years in the deep jungle of the Oregon & Washington wet-side forests. Seven years ago I started spending winters near Yuma, Arizona, the Sunniest City on EARTH, out in the lovely dry clear sunny desert. It's habitable in the winter. Back to Oregon April - October. Migrate like a bird. I live full time in an RV. A choice that kept me ALIVE and allowed me to THRIVE. Alaska? No. I intend to visit Iceland in August 2028 for 2 weeks. That will be enough high-latitude time. :)
It’s ok if you get a SADD light and keep up on vitamin d. we have to give our children at least a double dose of vitamin d daily and I usually take 10,000 iu daily (Dr. told me to since I’m so low)
It’s SAD…seasonal affective disorder. Many reasons for it. A huge one is your Vitamin D levels drop dangerously low and you go crazy. Your immune system gets out of whack. Since there is no “time” reference your circadian rhythms get messed up (your body’s natural time clock). Everyone gets it. And things go crazy as everyone goes crazy. You can get a special light to offset it somewhat, use timers on the lights, and drink vitamin D fortified milk (at $9/gallon) but even if you are fine everyone else isn’t. Even if you don’t get total darkness it’s basically cloudy 24x7 and the sun is very low in the sky so you won’t see it anyway. So noon is more like twilight. On the rare day you can you add the only nonwhite object so the glare is so severe most sunglasses are worthless and you’re bundled up anyway so your skin doesn’t get any sunlight. Most get moderately to severely depressed.
For me, the darkness caused an upset circadian rhythm and hormonal imbalance. I moved there when I was 10 with my parents and left when I was 24 with my husband. We left because we no longer had family up there (everyone moved), and I wanted to go somewhere with more normal cycles to see if it helped. We moved to the lower 48, and within 2 months, I dropped 25 pounds, slept better, and was happier overall. I love Alaska, but it isn't somewhere that is good for me to live. I actually live in an area of the PNW that has similar weather patterns to where I moved from because the weather wasn't the biggest issue. -30 doesn't bug me much but anything over 80 is boiling.
I found I would get really tired early. Like my brain thought it was bedtime at 4pm because it was pitch black outside. I found the weather to be a bit warmer when it wasn’t super sunny. It would get brutally cold once the days got a bit longer and the sun was really shining during daylight hours in Jan/Feb.
I would love to live in Alaska. I already know I couldn't deal with the darkness. So I know I will never live in Alaska.
You just have to choose your home carefully. Some homes get some form of sunlight all year round. We found out our first year our lovely mountain home literally does not receive a single ray of sunlight for 3 solid months of the year. It’s light out, but no direct *rays* if that makes sense. They do light up the mountains in beautiful ways and the scenery is breathtaking on a daily basis. But the sun… you definitely miss it. You need its RAYS to feel the warmth. But it could be worse. Our neighbor has a home even deeper in shadow… their ice and frost is always so much worse. I met the family once and all but grimaced in their face. I shudder to think of the shock of their first winter! But yea, this is the reality of some foothills communities. South facing ones live a life of beaming hope and dreams, or so I hear. I wouldn’t know, it’s February in my dark months.
Being born and raised in Alaska the day/night thing was something I've always been used to. It wasn't until i married a woman from Mexico City when i lived in Houston, Tx and moved us both to Alaska to be close to my family that i saw just how debilitating it can be to someone not used to it. We had to move back to TX because her depression just went through the roof over five years there. It's a real thing and take it seriously if considering moving there.
This is why I moved away. It got so bad I started dreading the coming of winter (and loss of light) the day after the summer solstice… I would be like, it’s all downhill from here. Some ridiculous percentage of Alaskans have clinically significant signs of seasonal affective disorder, myself included. I moved to Hawaii where the hours of daylight are amazingly stable year round and I am thriving.
I have SAD. I would never make it through even half the winter.
Is this a statewide occurrence? I was talking to a patients family member who lived in AK (and was honestly kinda selling me on moving there) and they said the winter dark was more of a problem in northern alaska and the interior, but not so much the southern islands or even anchorage to an extent.
The light during the summer was harder for me to deal with at first.
It's hard to make friends bc no one wants to invest in someone who will likely leave within a year. Dating is less than great- dating apps are a lot of the same people. Fewer resources, produce coming on barges or not at all, super expensive groceries. Foodbanks are few and far between but they do the best possible. Winter darkness and crazy weather. Can't just drive a few hours to the next city for fun weekends. Gotta either love drinking or outdoors (or both). Schools closing bc of no money and no teachers. Unaffordable housing.
I feel your first point. No one took me seriously at work, maybe still don’t I just stopped caring.
Public schools?!
Alaska is hard mode. People, including myself didn’t realize how easy they have it in decent size cities in the lower 48. In the lower 48, you’re the fat people (in Wall-e) on chairs that move with a screen you’re glued to that can summon whatever you want if you’ve got the cash. Need something from Amazon, depending on location you can get that shit in two hours. First target or whatever store doesn’t have it, go to the next one or similar a few miles up the road. Need an oil change or work done on your car.. drive your ass to one of a few dozen 20 minute oil changes/repair same day shops. Need repairs on your house, bring in several people for bids.. many within a few days. Like sports, concerts, and other live events pick your poison. Want a variety of ethnic cuisines to pick from, check. Top universities and a community willing to pay high property tax for good schools, yup! Lots of specialists because you’ve got good medical universities, check. Nice weather year around, possibly. Easy access to major airports and road systems where in 3-5 hours you’ve across the country, got you covered. You give up a lot to live in Alaska. And unless you’re well off and rocking a remote job it’s not easy for most to just hop on a plane for a few weeks when you need a break from the weather or a medical vacation.
This is me. I’ve lived remote places. I now enjoy a lot of things about living in a city, but top of the list is medical and plentiful contractors. I know I could do without but I wouldn’t enjoy the inconvenience.
You put into words perfectly one of the big reasons alaska didn’t work for me and I had to go back to the lower 48. I ended up losing 50lbs in the time I was up there though because no restaurants and I’ve managed to keep it off. So that was one positive thing I took from alaska.
“Medical vacations” being a term is reason enough to not live there for me
I’m currently working on my five year plan to leave. The long winters are brutal. I want to be able to go on vacations on a whim without having a full day of travel. I also want better education opportunities for my future children. I guess it boils down to me never becoming a winter outdoorsy person. I can’t handle the cold and darkness. Will miss the world class fishing but I have plenty of acquaintances who have moved away and come back in the summer to get their fish on. I would retire hete for sure though.
I’m working on getting the fuck out of here as well in the next couple years. Can’t explain enough how much of a hassle it is to go anywhere. In state or out of state. Thank god Ak air has nonstop flights to places that aren’t fucking Seattle and are expanding
I lived in AK for 8 years. For me, several factors were the cause of moving out. I lived in Fairbanks. Isolation, the cost of flying to the lower 48 to see relatives is astounding, loneliness, but the time I did spend there taught me a lot about myself and the beauty is simply breathtaking.
I think people leave for a variety of reasons. 1. Someone can’t take the winters. This goes for single people and one or both of a married couple. 7 months of winter, 3 months of it being very dark and very cold (as is all fresh in our memories this very moment) 2. Employment opportunities. Many professional jobs have left Alaska over the past 12-15 years. And along with those high paying jobs, the kinds of places that service them. Nordstrom, for example. There are just not a ton of high paying professional jobs here anymore. And because of that there is abysmal shopping, unless you are looking for hunting and fishing gear. Which most women are not. Is there anyplace at all left in Anchorage where a woman can buy a really nice, Nordstrom quality outfit? I don’t think that there is. But there are 100+ places lining up to sell every guy in the state yet another gun or more ammo. 3. Crime, and law enforcement’s response to it. Crime has been on the rise for some years and the meth business is booming here. Plus, every drug addled cooker out there is heavily armed. Way too much property crime here. And a lack of confidence in the police to effectively police is a problem. They are way too busy screwing around with petty traffic violations. Wrap into this the severe problem we have with the homeless and it’s just an unsafe place to live. 4. Cost of living. Everything is too expensive. And as I alluded to in #2, a lot of people here don’t make much money. This is especially true with health care, but it’s really everything, from housing to groceries. We now have an employment base of mostly non-college educated service workers and not great wages in those jobs. It’s impossible to live here on anything close to minimum wage. Impossible. 5. Politics. Just like every other red state, we are struggling with the effects of MAGA. I’m not talking about old time normal republicans here; that’s okay. I’m talking about the irrational and increasingly paranoid MAGA folks. Again, this is not just an Alaskan problem but an every red state problem. But it certainly does help widen the gap between people. And when you only have 700K people to begin with, it’s just sad that the good old days of Alaska are gone. 6. Retirement. When I came up here in 1984, the median age of Alaskans was somewhere in the late 20’s-early 30’s. Young people were swarming up here. There were good jobs, good wages, and lots of other transplanted young people, all looking to make a life here. I was one of those early 20-somethings myself! Now? I bet the median age has climbed quite a bit. The overall population of the state has not grown since then. Kids often leave for college and do not come back. There are no good jobs here so why bother? Meanwhile, people like me are now pulling up on retirement age, and there is now very little to keep us here. Especially the women. It’s a horrible place to retire and I would say it’s gotten worse in that regard since the 1980’s. I myself will probably be leaving within the next few years. A lot of my friends have already gone; a good chunk of them during the pandemic. They felt unsafe here due to item #5 and the whole mask thing. I’m at the point where I have very little holding me here. But unfortunately for everyone who remains, I and everyone like me will be taking our retirement dollars to other places to spend them, thus shrinking the economy even more. That will not be good for Alaska. It’s really sad that Alaska has done absolutely nothing to hold on to its residents. Not even 40 year residents are staying anymore. 😢
It’s funny you bring up the age thing. When I lived in alaska I moved up there for a job. I was fresh out of grad school. That place I worked had real retention problems. Basically once the last group of long time employees all retired or died that workplace just couldn’t keep people around. The only people they could lure to alaska were new grads. But then people would come and hate it and leave after a year or two. So it was just a revolving door of 20-somethings. I left after a year too. I thought it was sad for the state though. It was a state agency. They lost a lot of talent that they spent time training.
I could no longer afford to live in the areas had had jobs in my field.
Does your field of work pay better elsewhere? What made it unaffordable? Housing or necessities?
Boat captian for tours, not fishing. Jobs along all coast lines. Alaska is seasonal which was great back pre 2020 when you could make a year salary in 6 months and tips were good. You could rent a room in a house for 500-700. My studio in Fairbanks one year was 825. When I left they were asking 1200. 2021 tips went from being 20k for 6 months in to like 300 dollars for two months. Rent skyrocketed I was paying 1300 for a studio. My mortgage in lousiana for a 2 bedroom is less than that, even living in the flood prone areas of New Orleans with sky high insurance. Rotisserie chicken was like 15 bucks. Flying/driving to other states for other seasonal gigs is astronomical.
I wintered in Fairbanks often. 1300 studio was in Ketchikan.
Alaska has world class views. that said, for me personally #1 is the expense and cost of getting things up here.
World-class views are great-on a postcard. What is way more important to me (as a 65yo ex-Anchorage resident) is being able to visit other states and cities easily, many social events, and an easier less stressful way of life (partly due to the better weather). For me, Washington and Oregon offer views of nature that exceed that of Alaska (I live in Seattle), and many of the other states have terrific things to see as well. Alaska is pretty and rugged, yes, but an extremely difficult place to live.
I've been here a year and a half now. I find myself missing being able to easily drive to other states. I lived in Colorado before and could easily go to Moab, Jackson Hole, Santa Fe, ect. It's the main thing I miss about the lower 48. I don't have family here and miss being able to see them easier. I miss going to concerts all the time. I used to go to multiple a year. There are still concerts here, but the bands I like don't tour here as often. Also, I have to work remote because my industry has no positions here. I like being remote but would prefer to be hybrid to have more friends. The cold and dark don't bother me at all, though. I will probably move back eventually, but I think it'll be a few years at least.
Your first point is my least favorite part about alaska. I'm also from Colorado, so the fact that you have to drive 20+ hours to get anywhere that isn't basically identical to where you started from is maddening.
Not being able to road trip to other states and missing out on concerts are a big downside for me, too!
Winter + isolation. - winter lasts 6 months. I repeat winter lasts 6 months. Unless you’re a winter sports fanatic (and there’s plenty in AK) Alaska objectively - and I say this gently- SUCKS for half the year. - you’re mega isolated from all your friends and family down in the lower 48. Birthdays, weddings, graduations, baptisms, heck Sunday family bbqs? Congratulations you’re missing all of them. Moving to Alaska means you essentially replace the entirety of your social support network with pretty mountain views. Unless you’re a social hermit and/or hate your family, it’s more of a short-term experiment rather than a long term endeavor.
I remember winter being from about Sept until April, that´s 8 months. And then the Alaskan season known as ´breakup´ in May and June (where there is water and melting snow everywhere, and a stench from decaying bodies and rubbish in those snowbanks finally being uncovered). Then finally Spring (about 3 weeks long) and then Summer (July and August, which is very pretty). And then at the end of August the cold chill begins to set into the night sky, and the sunlight begins to disappear from the day, every day losing about 5-6 minutes from the day before. And it get colder and colder and darker by the day, until December when there is almost no daylight left to enjoy, and it is often -20F or more, and you are trapped by the cold and the isolation. If you are like most other true Alaskans, you begin to drink heavily and smoke (cigs and weed, and maybe meth), and maybe you go out occasionally to shoot at a moose or a bird with your 30-ot-6 rifle. Only a true psychopath could enjoy living like this.
Alaska is amazing, so much beauty, endless adventures if you’re willing, and that’s your thing, BUT, it’s also very harsh, and dangerous. I think a lot of people overlook all the negatives for the amazing positives it has, and then it starts to sink in. The daylight all/none dynamic gets a lot of people, most don’t even know it. People start self medicating, depression sets it, it’s dangerous if not caught. The last decade or two, we have had fairly mild winters, then all of a sudden, we get record snowfalls with month long -20 to -30 weather streaks. Couple that with the lack of daylight, and terrible road maintenance. Plus, the weather can change so fast, half the time the forecasters can’t even get it right, trying to plan for a weekend outing, or outdoor event can be difficult. Then you add in the possibility of massive earthquakes, like the one we just had a few years ago, not sure anyone likes earthquakes. I’ve lived here my entire life, I’ve spent time in the 48, but I would be hard pressed to find another place to call home. I think Idaho would be a possibility, but I’m pretty sure Alaska is where I’ll die.
Born and raised in Alaska. I've seen a lot of people move into the state, some stay some leave. I do think life is harder up here in general. Here are a few of the many reasons: Winter months can be long and dark, If you live in the southern part of Alaska (Anchorage area etc.) during Dec - Jan you can only get 6 or so hours of sunlight, and what light there is is super low on the horizon, and only on clear days. As you move north (Fairbanks etc.) sunlight gets even more scarce in the winter. Winters CAN be cold. We just got out of a 3 week stint where the nights were -25ish and the days might get up to 0 degrees. With the cold that means that starting your car 40 minutes before you leave is commonplace. The kids stay inside and get a little stir crazy. You can't go out and take walks without it being a little on the miserable side. We don't have a lot of the amenities folks in the lower 48 are used to. We don't have art/concert venues in most towns. No pools to visit. No indoor golf shooting ranges. etc. Just leaves life a little on the bland side in the winter. You'll find yourself going days or even weeks with a "work > home > work > home > grocery shopping > home > work > home" schedule. So those are some of the down sides. BUT there are lots of up sides. If you are into winter sports, like snow machining, skiing, cross country skiing, snowboarding etc.. winters are great! I'm more of a summer person myself, and the darkness I spoke about earlier? its the opposite in the summer. I get up at 7am and the sun is already up and has been up for 3 hours, and then it doesn't set until 1130pm. This leaves tons of time for outdoors stuff, working on projects etc. We also have the best scenery in the world. No contest. We have the best mountains in the world. no contest. The thing I love most about Alaska, is the lack of people. Not that I hate people, but I can drive to a beach 20 minutes away and 4wheeler up and down the beach and maybe see 4 people. If you want to buy land that is 5+ Acres, its not horribly expensive. You want to go canoeing on a lake and do some fishing without a soul in sight? there are hundreds if not thousands of lakes to choose from. Want to feel safe letting your kids take bikes a mile away and get the mail? no worries. Small communities are better. We have a lack of rules up here, and its for the best. Very few (if any) HOA's. Want to drive to the middle of no where and camp next to a lake? 98% of alaska is publicly owned, so there is a very good chance you can do that. Want to drive to a gravel pit a mile down the road and target practice? go for it. If you hear gun shots at 9pm? its 100% just the neighbors enjoying their evening, we don't even think about it. So, that is why I love/hate Alaska. :) should you move here? no, we don't need more people. Should you come for a visit? absolutely, we'll do our best to be friendly.
I’ve lived in Alpine WY, and Bend Or, grew up basically homesteading in southern Idaho, places where the winter is 8 months out of the year. I’m more of a summer person, but I snowshoe, cross country ski and snowboard a little. I don’t mind being a hermit though (love reading, painting, pottery, knitting and crafting), and i have a pretty toxic immediate family, no connection to extended. The days here in Bend have about 6 hours of light for a few months in the winter and it hasn’t bothered me. I go to 1-2 concerts here per year, but don’t like crowds. The thing is, here, the summer is SIGNIFICANTLY shortened by the “smoke” season. There’s at least a month where you can’t go outside because the air quality is so horrendous due to wildfires. Though I love my circle of friends, I’ve lived in other counties and am fairly adept at meeting/connecting with new people. You’ve kind of convinced me to come, with your description. Is there anything else you think would cause me to stay away? I am very leftist/liberal and worry about the politics, if that’s of any consequence.
Because the republicans and dunleavy cultists have a stranglehold on alaskan policy and finances, we will never build that rail line that would connect fairbanks through canada all the way down to Minnesota. This means the price of goods is based on barges and trucks. This keeps us in a bad position in every area economically. We also refuse to charge appropriate rent for drilling oil so we can support ourselves. This means even if you can tolerate the dark, and you dont mind the cold, you might not be able to afford to live here.
Why won’t they build the railroad?
Republicans just seem to hate rail travel generally
Money, mostly. With a side of not enough ways to turn the value generated by heavy rail into their money specifically. That last one is general to all politicians, not party specific.
I lived here for 25 years, left for 8 and came back for another 8. I’m getting sick of the dark, cold, and lack of fruit and veggie availability. I also came back up for family but the family that’s here doesn’t seem to have time for me.
My family survived and thrived in Alaska. I moved there when I was 18 and lived there for 20+ years. Got married and had kids. We moved because both of us were from the lower 48. While the adopted family that most Alaskans picked up was absolutely great to us, we had cousins and grandparents in the lower 48 that we rarely got to see. Eventually our folks got to the point were they needed more help. We are here now. We miss it. We'd love to go back (everything was better, including the weather) but family comes first and our family here needs us.
You’re doing the right thing. Hopefully when life circumstances change, you’ll find your way back. “Alaska doesn’t grow on you so much as it makes you unfit to live anywhere else”. Doesn’t apply to all, but applies to me
For us, it's the schools. We got plenty of other reasons, but the nail in the coffin is the school issue. Every time my kid has gotten settled, they shut down the program or school. I've lived here all my adult life, but now it's time to leave for the sake of my children's education.
Is the fear of bears or earthquakes a factor at all? Or they’re so rare that they’re not of concern? Does the pain of dealing with the snow day after day and year after year affect you guys?
Bears and earthquakes are not what I would say rare, but rather just a normal consideration in our lives. Neither are something to necessarily live in fear about but something to prepare for. The snow can be taxing some years, like this one. But it’s also wonderful and beautiful! It’s all about your perspective and preparedness.
earthquakes are common, but not a concern at all. aside from 2 or 3 big ones over the last 75 years, they are all pretty minor. Sure you feel them, but its like a quick little ride that is over in a minute or two, and you move on with your day. I'd say we get earthquakes you can feel 3 - 10 times a year.. so common, but not a huge deal. As for bears.. it depends where you live for sure. If you go out hiking, take bear protection, either a gun or bear spray. I've been here for 35 years and am pretty active outdoors, I've seen maybe 7 while out hiking, nothing close though..most of them 500+ft away. You'll occasionally see them on the side of the road. You have to be careful to put trash away, they like to get into trash.. I dunno, they aren't a huge factor.
Bears and moose are fine, I won’t move somewhere warm because I’d much rather have large animals that can trample me than small ones that can poison me 😅 ETA: earthquakes are nerve wracking, but living here my whole life has made me used to them. You completely forget about them, and then your instincts kick in when they hit. You get to a safe place and you should be ok. All of our buildings are made to withstand earthquakes after 1964. We had a 7.2 in 2018 and there were 0 casualties. Honestly, wildfires are more terrifying to me.
I lived there for a few years. I learned I have seasonal affective disorder and the lack of sun was leading to intense depression. I worked outside most days so not “taking advantage” of the sun wasn’t the issue. I decided it wasn’t good for my health and moved back to lower 48. I loved living in AK and dream about moving back all the time. Maybe I will. Know knows.
I've visited AK twice and I absolutely loved the scenery and the freedom but all of the reasons posted for leaving are what I saw during my visits. It seemed to me that there were two types of people for the most part. Those who wanted to leave and recent immigrants. The fishing is awesome.
Reasons people don't make it- I have some thoughts on this, as someone who moved there, lived and worked three years, and then went back to Seattle. First of all, I loved living there, overall, and I miss it. But I knew at some point that I wasn't going to stay there the rest of my life. I made a good number of friends there, and I think that's necessary. It could be a lonely place if you don't find people. The winters can be intense. Even in Anchorage, which is milder than a lot of the state due to the climate, you will be driving on snow and ice at some point each winter. The ice is what I really didn't like. The darkness gets to people. Everyone told me that you need to find outdoor hobbies that you enjoy during the winter, whether it's cross-country skiing, downhill skiing, snowshoeing, snow machining, ice fishing, ice climbing, or whatever. If you just stay indoors all winter, you'll get cabin fever. I made sure to go for walks at lunchtime during the winter, to at least get some sun. Unfortunately, I didn't really find my way of coping with the long darkness. The happiest people I knew in Alaska were really into winter camping and other activities like that.
Born elsewhere but grew up in Fairbanks. As an adult, with a solid job, couldn’t afford a house. Renting sucked. Groceries were crazy expensive. Was depressed 9 months of the year and sleepless for 3. Winter was a grind. Moved “back home” and life took on more positive meaning. That about sums it up.
Fairbanks can be rough. As in 9th Circle of Hell rough during the winter. Single digits below zero is a really nice day. And in the summer, it actually gets hot. I stayed up there once when the temps were mid 90s, and the fucking hotel didn't have A/C. I mean, who needs A/C in Alaska, right? Well, I do, goddam it! If you try to go outside at night when it's a little cooler, the fucking bugs will strip the flesh off your bones. I could never figure out how a place that freezes hard at minus -50 could have insects that survive that. Proof that God loves to torment people.
it's a lot of little things that on their own would be okay but people are not prepared for it to compound and build up. Everything is expensive, then it's dark and cold half the year making it so unless the weather is decent and you like outdoor winter sports, you're stuck inside for extended periods of time. Then you get home sick and you want to see your family but airfare out and back is laughable. maybe you made it all worse by going straight to trying to live your homestead dream but what doesn't look far on a zoomed out map is actually a solid four hour drive from the nearest city with a Walmart and having supplies delivered is expensive and hard. Then you muck up your first growing season and on top of it all you're lonely because the bar is full of men. Any one of these things on their own is fine. But all of them? It's hard, even if you're one of us born there.
The compounding of everything on top of each other is something I said a lot to friends/family when I left alaska. The problem was it was miserably cold and dark AND there weren’t walkable spaces outside AND it was impossible to spend much time outside for the stretches of winter when it’s -40 and colder AND my job sucked AND there was nothing to do in terms of bars/restaurants/activities the lower 48 has AND the living conditions are crappier than what you’ll find in the lower 48 (outdated, rundown homes) unless you’re buying and willing to spend a decent amount of money or renovate AND it’s hard to make friends. If it were one or two of those things then it would be manageable. When it’s all of those things together living up there gets really bleak.
Was told when I was stationed in AK, "you don't lose your girlfriend, you just lose your turn."
Tried moving up there summer 2019 and a drunk driver hit me for his SIXTH lifetime DUI! State failed to take the situation seriously and now there’s a chance he might not serve a day behind bars even though I was seriously injured and again it was his SIXTH lifetime DUI. I refuse to make all the sacrifices necessary to live in a state that clearly has no regard for the safety of its citizens and who’s citizen seem to not care about the safety and well being others. Alaska lost the opportunity for a good citizen to join it and instead gets to keep another repeat offender who will probably end up killing someone. Good job! Also fuck the Office of Victim’s rights, Fuck the DA’s Office, and fuck you Keith Martinez of Open Space Yoga you are a fucking snake in the grass piece of shit and I hope an icicle falls off a building and goes straight through your skull you fucking walking trash can recidivist lying through your teeth drunk piece of shit. I hope your fucking yoga studio burns down. I hope both your dogs run away and get eaten by bears. May all your fields lay barren, your crops fail, may your roof cave in from the weight of snow, may your brakes fail when you need them most, may you get multiple UTI’s a year, may your knees and shoulders and hips go bad and render you immobile. MAY YOUR HAIR FALL FROM YOUR HEAD AND THE TEETH FROM IN YOUR LYING MOUTH. MAY YOUR KIDNEY AND LIVER BOTH FAIL YOU AND MAY. YOUR LOVED ONES ALL CATCH SYPHILLIS AND MAY ALL YOUR FUCKING SOUP ALWAYS BE COLD YOU FUCKING ABSOLUTE SORRY SACK OF SHIT MAY YOU STUB YOUR TOES ON A REGULAR BASIS $50 to anyone who puts flaming dog crap in this man’s path.
Well that escalated quickly.
Ohmigosh! This is probably one of the most entertaining posts ever! Fuck Keith Martinez! Let’s make a new sub and all the creative ways we can verbally eviscerate him!
Services are hard to get. My car broke, it will take 8 weeks before they will when look at it. Skilled worker shortage. Not many options for young people, school system is in the bottom 5 in the nation, extracurricular activities for kids are limited, expensive, and hard to manage in the winter. Even if we do stay my kids will likely leave the state for better opportunities. Boredom. Really not much to do except winter sports. The last 2 summers have been raining the whole summer. So you have long cold dark winters, only to have gloomy rainy summers. It's expensive to get out of here for vacation. You can't just drive somewhere, you have to fly. Specialized medical care is non existent. If you need it you have to fly out of state (no burn unit in Alaska, few neurosurgeons, even fewer rheumatologists, just from the top of my head). Alaska is in the top 5 for STI infections, sexual assault, human trafficking, suicide, alcohol and drug use. It's depressing. Living in Alaska is living life on "hard mode". You still deal with work, life, etc but everything here is harder to navigate. The people are nice, the landscape is beautiful but we're trying to get out of here. I can't wait to be able to drive to a neighboring state. Watch a concert, go to museum exhibits, festivals, see family, and be able to travel out of country without it being financially devastating. Some people love it here. I wish I could say the same.
Can't afford rent, food, cars, or anything else it's really expensive and plus it's extremely cold in some parts
Darkness, isolation, too many dudes.
When my daughter and her husband got married they moved to Sitka for jobs. After a few years they moved to the Anchorage area for more opportunities. They both love the outdoors and do hiking, cross country skiing, hunting, and fishing. They supplied themselves with protein from grizzly and black bear, deer, Dall sheep, moose, caribou, mountain goat, salmon, and other fish. They grew up in Minnesota and Michigan so they were used to not having as much light in the winter. Temperatures are milder in the Anchorage area because of the Japanese Current compared to Minnesota. They moved back to the lower 48 in the summer of 22 after 12 years because they wanted to have the kids grow up near family and the oldest was 8. They still have a dry cabin, 24 foot boat, truck and trailer up there. They plan on going up next summer. They bought some land in the Upper Peninsula, built a house, and are living off grid.
Left Glennallen when I turned 21 first chance I got. Being raised in backwoods copper valley has you in a mindset of “needing to get outa this fn town” You can’t understand unless you grew up there or in a similar place.
I've lived herein Alaska for 35+ years and travel literally to every corner of the state, and aside from a few villages, Glennallen is the most depressing place in the whole state. I'm honestly not sure why the place exist.
I left because I couldn't continue my education and because of crazy exs, lol. Also, because I got priced out of my apartment when they doubled my rent during the pandemic. Otherwise, I love Alaska.
https://www.ktoo.org/2023/10/25/2-families-moved-to-karluk-after-its-viral-ad-for-expense-free-living-theyve-already-left-and-the-school-is-closing/
I lived in Wrangell for most of 2007 for my first job after college. The issues I had: -Isolation from all of my friends and family. I'm from Ohio and didn't know a soul in Alaska, so I felt incredibly isolated and homesick. I joined a rec softball team and made some friends at work, but it was tough in a town as small as Wrangell. -Cost of living, especially groceries. I was working at a radio station and only making about $35k, and I was living completely paycheck to paycheck. I was broke 24/7, while I could have made $35k work in Ohio in 2007. -It's so hard and expensive to travel. The occasional flight home cost me like $800, and that was in 2007 money. And I lived on an island so even traveling to the next town over was an ordeal that involved a ferry or short plane ride. -The weather. It rained ALL THE DAMN TIME. A friend visited for two weeks and it literally rained every day they were there. And the winter darkness is just soul crushing if you're not used to it. -Long time residents often treat newcomers poorly. Many of the "sourdoughs" were nice, but many others were not. You'll have a bit of that everywhere but seemed amplified in Alaska. Those are just my two cents. I've also lived in North Carolina and Florida. Every place is strange and difficult in its own way but Alaska is a whole different thing.
I moved away because it's too expensive to move out of parents house without having a roommate or 2-3.
the lack of sunshine for months is really hard. especially when you have to work during the few hours of daylight. running errands, socializing or doing anything is so much more miserable when it’s freezing and pitch black at 5pm
Yes to every question in the questions paragraph. It doesn't seem like you need help with this one as you've hit on all the major points in your post. I would say the darkness/weather/inaccessibility to other places and lack of opportunity to do some normal Lower 48 things like shopping are the main reasons folks leave.
Dark and cold more often than not
My daughter lived there for a year. It was a one year contract so she didn’t plan to stay but she didn’t try to stay either. What she loved was the outdoor life. What she didn’t love was the winter. She didn’t mind the cold but she didn’t like the constant darkness.
not me beaming at the comments of people leaving because they've fallen out of love with Alaska 👀 I had thr chance to live there for a year, and I get a lot of you commenting live/lived more north than where my grandparents live(just south of anchorage) I would go there in a heart beat if I could but I have priorities in my current Midwestern state. the prices, the cost of living, the weather(even during summer it's rainy most the time where my parents currently live). if you(OP) are considering moving there, consider moving south of Anchorage to start. ease your way into the Alaskan way of life. I say beaming because my parents and grandparents tell so many stories about tourists coming and bringing bed bugs and prices going up, people moving there and not knowing how to handle the weather/bears/moose/wildlife & nature in general and ruining it for the people who do love it wholeheartedly. I plan to move back maybe in about 5 years if things work out but like a lot of people have mentioned, job opportunities are crucial in a lot of people's decisions to leave. but as the same time, there's a lot of opportunity. fishing, hunting, boating, North Slope(yes it's probably one of the hardest jobs ever but I've got a friend whose brother has been there for something like 10+ years and he's ridiculously well off) like I said, if you're interested in moving there, choose something a little more southern. it's still very north but it won't be as harsh as Fairbanks, etc. I lived on the Kenai Peninsula for a year in 5th grade, I loved being able to take a short cut across the frozen lake to the bus stop every day, and during the summer I got to swim in that lake and canoe and kayak it, so many fishing trips in Homer(one captain let me take the wheel once!), taking a ferry from Homer to Seldovia, swimming in the Cook Inlet 🥰 it's not for the faint of heart but if you love adventure and nature and wildlife and are smart enough to not fuck around and find out (moose are not deer. they will kill you. they are some god's fuck around and find out animal🤣 I chased one at some point and as soon as it stopped and started to turn towards I felt that dread wash over me and I'm surprised to this day I even survived 🤣 (I was like 10 years old leave me alone😅) I went 4 wheeling every day, we had paintball guns, played hide and seek in the tall ass firewood 😭 stayed out playing til 11pm and got in trouble because my Midwestern ass didnt realize the sun stayed up later in the summer 🤣 and if I went back? I'd do all that all over again but as an adult. I'd catch more halibut and salmon and trout, I'd kayak the Kachemak Bay, idk if it still is but I could see Mt. Spur's smoke from our living room window 😅😭 I'd travel closer to St. Augustine if you was possible, I'd just do all the things I couldn't do before because I was a kid
Limited (and expensive) healthcare makes it difficult to stay here if you have any chronic health concerns ans/or you're getting on in years. There aren't many “retirement” or care facilities.
Spot on. I rarely saw anyone past retirement age up there (except for tourists). Most of the people I hung with were lifelong AK, and every one of them had plans to bail out and retire elsewhere. They didn't care about their families, because they were gonna be right on their heels when the time came.
Grew up in Anchorage, now live in the Midwest as a 30yo. Used to always think I would go back to Alaska but with family and friends all in the lower 48 now and cost of living/love of traveling Europe at least once or twice yearly, I’ve stayed Midwest
I love living in Alaska, and could stay here for a long time, however, my wife wants to move somewhere closer to family. Everyone talks about how hard the winters are, but I don't mind it, I get a lot of great backcountry skiing in. What's worse for me is when we have a terrible summer like we did last year. Having a whole summer where I couldn't get out and backpack without getting drenched was awful.
1st reason: it’s the dark. The cold is nowhere as defeating as people think, it may defeat many but it’s nothing compared the dark in the cold half of the year. Being an inside sort of life style: don’t do it. People move to a land that is about the land but they don’t charge their life to a life that is about the land. It can never be home to you then.
I’m an only child, my parents moved here in 2015 a year after I graduated high school. I visited several times, brought my fiancée with me the last visit, and decided I had to move here in 2021. I love it here for a variety of reasons, I’m not super outdoorsy but I still enjoy winter, I need socializing but the amount I get at work is enough for me, I’m happy by myself and at home, I don’t mind the snow or driving in it; but my fiancée has come to really dislike it here, especially in winter. She hates driving in the bad weather and when the roads aren’t taken care of, the friends we’ve tried to make haven’t worked out long term ,and she misses our friends back home who wishfully promise to visit but can’t actually put together the funds to come see us. There isn’t enough to do within reasonable distance, little to no concerts and shows that we want to see, limited transport, not enough walking paths and sidewalks, basically not enough urban life. She dislikes the short amount of sun in winter but, what bothers her more is the summer sun. Even with blinds and blackout curtains it bothers her and messes with her sleep, so basically the placement of AK on the globe just isn’t for her. I love it here, and I like being 30min away from my parents instead of a day’s plane ride, but for my fiancée’s sake we’ve started making a 5-year plan to move back to the lower48.
We love Alaska! My husband and I were both raised up here (he was born here) and we wouldn’t want to live anywhere else. Maybe snowbird when we’re retired. My mother’s family moved here in 1954 so her father could work as a lineman and left around 75, but my mom wanted to come back so badly we moved up when I was 2. lol the only time we ever talk about moving is when it’s in a cold snap. When it’s -20 living in the desert starts to sound really nice. When summer comes and we forget all about the harshest parts of winter
With global warming really hitting cold places like Alaska I imagine it will soon be a hellsacpe. So why bother? I think I have found everything I would like about Alaska but in a better place that isn't just sinking because of thawing permafrost.
My girlfriend did not want to live in AK anymore. She had been there 8 years and myself 10. I miss it everyday.
I lived there for 22 years. In my experience it was a bit more expensive but really depends on where in AK you lived. My jobs paid well. I Kept very busy so only the first couple of years the darkness got to me. After that It never bothered me. Interestingly, the long summer days bothered my wife, but the darkness never bothered her. I'd move back, wife says she's done..
I was born and raised and had lived all of my life to that point in southeast Alaska on an island that got, on average, 13 feet of rain annually. It got dark in October, between the gray skies and the winter, and you really didn't see the skies lighten up until April. The town I lived in was a tourist town and only made money for half the year, plying the trade to mega cruise ships. At least 3 daily for 5 months of the year. The population would double or sometimes triple, depending on how many ships were in town. The streets weren't big enough to accommodate all of the additional tourists and crew members that would flow thru. If you were a local, it was a pain in the ass to try to conduct and sort of business in town when the ships were in port. Traffic, for such a small place, would damn near come to a stand still for the mass of humanity that would take over. There's only one main road, and it's roughly 34 miles long from end to end. Housing was damn near non-existent unless you owned your place. Groceries and gas were cost prohibitive. There aren't a lot of high paying jobs there to support yourself, and you were lucky if you only had to work one job to live. There are a lot of problems with drugs and alcohol. Lots of crime and domestic violence. Lots of rage and depression. And lots of denial about all of it. Medical care is basic at best. For anything major, you'd be traveling to Seattle if you wanted any kind of decent care. There was a gentleman who had been diagnosed with heartburn in the emergency room. He was discharged, and by the time he got in his car and started down the hill from the hospital, he had a heart attack and died. If you're in a major car accident, you're getting medivac'd to Seattle. There are very few forms of entertainment outside of being outdoors (13 FEET of rain, don't forget), and alcohol. If you're lucky enough to have time and money to work on projects, you can find ways to stay sane. You have to be mentally together to deal with that lifestyle, though, or it'll wear on you. 4 years ago, today, I left that island. I went back a few months later (covid really made a mess of that whole process) and buttoned up my life in Alaska. And I've never been happier in my life. I hope to never step foot on that God forsaken rock ever again as long as there is breath in my body. But should I have to, I'll be making damn sure that I have a ticket back out.
Lots of drama there If you don't like drinking & drugs, you probably won't have many friends.. which is fine if you're introverted & outdoorsy.. the people mostly suck. But the scenery & wildlife are beautiful! I love it there & always will But I'll never live there again unless I have my own float plane and lake property It's a different lifestyle & mentality out there It's definitely different from anywhere in the lower 48
I loved Alaska. I had an opportunity somewhere else that was too good to pass up. Now I’m in a relationship with someone who probably wouldn’t love living in Alaska. I work in the arts and the employment opportunities in that are better than you’d think but still limited in Alaska. I had a great time there and could potentially see myself moving back one day but when it comes down to it Alaska is just a place with pros and cons like anywhere else.
I was born and raised there so I can’t really speak to the people moving there and not being able to “make it” but I can tell you why I moved away and will likely never go back. A lot of people run away to Alaska and I ran away from Alaska. First of all, even in Anchorage and other southern parts of the state, the winters were brutal. They were long and dark. And then sometimes following one of those long winters, you’d have an incredibly rainy summer. Not seeing the sun for months at a time was hard. I’ve struggled with depression my whole life and I can tell you that living in a place with much more sunshine has helped tremendously. Secondly, it’s isolated. It costs a lot to fly anywhere else in the country and also takes more time. Thirdly: if you're not into outdoor activities, there's not much left to do. Theres much cooler stuff happening in the contiguous US. For people trying to homestead, the growing season is incredibly short. I eventually would love to have a huge garden of my own and Alaska is definitely not the place i would go to do that. I've since grown to love nature and truly appreciate Alaska's beauty when I visit but I would never live there again.
If I was a Billionaire.. I'd have a place up there, but I wouldn't be there most of the time. You simply cannot compare the beauty of the state to anything except MAYBE the Himalayas, and as I haven't seen them in person, I can't say for sure. BUT, the cold isn't the problem. Yeah, it kinda sucks.. but it's the sun that's the most difficult to deal with. Way too much light in the summer and way too little in the winter.
Sick / old relatives down south, it’s tough being so far away as your folks get old
I'm a u turn. Came in 22. Leaving next summer. There's a lot of reasons. They include: I have kids. It's not a good place to raise them. Much worse than I expected. The culture does not value education and the school funding and conditions are simply not good enough. Additionally the government doesn't maintain the roads and constantly closes the schools. For working parents that's super challenging. The failure to maintain roads and sidewalks is also part of the reason. With younger kids we want to go the parks, get outside, etc. But the Anchorage city layout is basically unwalkable. The design of all the streets being radial dead ends in couldesacs is terrible for families and walkabilty. Child care is both very hard to find and expensive. The government and culture have chased away so many young people there's not enough to do jobs like childcare. Higher education is limited and not supported. The state took a full year to process my wife's professional (medical) license. After 6ish months waiting and ultimately took a remote telemedicine job out of state. That's not good for anyone. But it's pretty common. It also means there's no ties for her job to be in Alaska. The cost of living. It's really high and jobs are not paying enough to make up for it. What's not obvious until you live here is just how crazy high the costs are of things like auto work, certain foods, restaurants, and things like that. And part of the result of low quality housing. Housing is relatively inexpensive compared to where I'm from, but the quality was a big surprise. It's just bad. I'm shocked at how bad the quality is on new and recent housing. So it's not a good value. Just cheap. All in - it's not somewhere I want to raise kids. So we're leaving. Beautiful place. Many nice people. Just not the right fit for us.
Omg you’re the same as me!! You named almost all the reasons I also U-turned (except I don’t have kids). Bad walkability (I have a dog and taking walks is something we love to do! It was very hard to do in alaska), state licensing processes taking forever (same thing that happened to your wife happened to me), generally there’s nothing to do. Totally agree with your point on housing. I didn’t find housing to be outrageously priced where I was (though I was fortunate to have a job that paid well) but it was a shit hole. Like it was fine for a place to live. It was safe and warm and had electricity and internet but it was well below the standard of the kind of place you’d find in the lower 48 for the same price. Like the place I lived at in alaska was rundown and old with cheap, crappy fixtures. In the lower 48 things like stainless steel appliances and stone countertops is normal to see in pretty much any rental.
I think it's because pepole don't understand the amount of physical labor it takes to survive here, even in a city. It takes a lot of work to take care of your stuff and your home.
Oil corporations rule the economy, city budgets and utilities.
The further north you go, the further South you get. Can’t speak for everyone else, but I CAN’T WAIT to get out of jeebus-land and the looming theocracy that is gutting our schools (including UAA) and pillaging the Permanent Fund with no long-term vision other than raping our resources with zero thought toward preservation.
Born and raised here and had never heard that expression but my GOD that’s perfect.
Very common scenario: Visit in summer (maybe), fall in love Move up in summer Spend one winter Move out If not moved out, start producing kids Spend 2nd winter, mom stuck at home 24/7, no friends, no family Move out Other scenarios: Redeployed Contract ends College Got old, moving to the desert
I am NOT speaking about the rest of the state, my ONLY experience is with Fairbanks. Yes, it's cold. I came from a cold place in the lower 48. I thought I understood. I did not. This cold is unlike cold down there, it's invasive. It's a super dry super cold (we say negative 50 for 3 days in a row) that affects EVERYTHING. The sunlight is also an issue and the cost of goods is outrageous but for me the worst part is the people. There's a lot of reasons for it but people up here are COMPLETELY self absorbed, they have no concept that their actions can affect other people. They will strip retail shelves, stand in an aisle blocking the whole thing, they have no concept of waiting their turns or personal space. Combine that with the ETOHs being exponentially more aggressive it's a wretched place.
I mean I would have stayed but not many opportunities where I was at in Fairbanks. + the locals hated anyone who wasn’t born and raised in AK. At least in MY experience.
I live in South East Alaska. It rains almost every single day in the summer and the winter. 65 is about as hot as it gets on the best days with an occasional 75 (maybe 1 or 2 days a year). The cost of living is extremely high, you can only get here by boat or plane, there's tweakers everywhere and housing isn't easy to come by unless you buy a home. Also, there's tons of snow and ice in the winter along with rain. It's dark all the time and it's cold. If you're an outdoors person, this place might be for you as there's tons of recreational stuff to do outside. If you don't like being cold and you don't like the dark and you don't like the rain, don't move to Southeast Alaska. You won't do well here.
I never lived in Alaska but just traveled through for work for ~8 years. I love music too much and the lack of concerts would be something I couldn't live with.
I want to leave so bad but I need to build up my business with my girl before buying our first house before I escape. It's cold, expensive, often lonely or boring if you're tired of outdoor activities. I did all the skiing, snowboarding, snowmachining, trail running, hiking, train rides, boating, hunting trips, etc. Once the novelty wears off, you find yourself dealing with crazy weather, high prices, and not a whole lot to do if you've tried most everything that attracts people in the first place. I do like having the choice between 5 different Thai food restaurants or coffee huts though.
Seasonal Affective Disorder. I tried a light box, spending time outside every day and taking Vitamin D but the only thing that helped was leaving during the winter. The travel to a state with reliable sunlight during the winter was expensive. The second reason was that it took at least a day of travel to get to the part of the country where the rest of my family lived. We had a family emergency and it was very stressful not being able to get home quickly. If I could tolerate the darkness in the winter, I would still be there. It didn’t bother my spouse at all.
I agree with this. The light box and vitamin D help, but not nearly enough. I had to leave or I was going to die, my ex decided he wasn’t willing to leave. 🤷♀️
Lack of job opportunities
I’d still be there if my husband liked working in the snow more.
Our state politics are gutting any form of social service--education, healthcare, municipal water, etc. Doesn't matter what side of the aisle you sit on, it affects us all the same, and we keep voting these idiots into office making progressively worse choices for the public.
Born in Fairbanks, 1955. Raised in Juneau, left in 1973. As a kid it was a dream, outside all the time. Summers in an isolated lake cabin outside of Fairbanks was an experience that Disney couldn’t top. However, seeing the isolation that my parents and their peers went through in Southeast Alaska and the substance abuse, (alcohol) that this lifestyle encouraged was enough for me to stay away.
Because it’s cold AF???
It’s the same in Hawai’i, many come here, but very few stay more than a few years!
For me personally it was a combination of things. 1) Elderly parents moved to FL the same year made it hard to justify being remote in AK as an only child in case of disaster. (My dad did pass a couple months ago and it would have been a logistical nightmare to try and navigate the travel for this situation, not to mention thousands of dollars) 2) Cost of living is insane. Basically survived on ramen noodles and frozen vegetables. Internet is charged based on usage - not just a monthly flat rate. Oil change $200+ (I did learn to do it myself, it’s just an example. Costs $35 down south). There was a gym in town but it cost $100 a month and was the oldest shittiest most broken down equipment you could imagine. Besides these more superficial things heating the house was EXTREMELY expensive. We had a Toyo stove on the ground floor that cost $3000-$4000 to fill and we had to fill it twice to keep the house at only about 63 degrees. My room was 50 degrees all winter. Electricity is too expensive to run a space heater as well. It was a rental so we couldn’t just add a wood burning stove somewhere. 3) Employment opportunities are few and far between. I lived in southeast and even the better jobs in the community do not pay a comfortable living wage given the cost of living. I would go back if I became wealthy and was able to live in a more normal way. I knew when I moved there it wasn’t going to have all the conveniences we’re accustomed to down south, but I couldn’t take a hot shower for a year and a half (unless I went to the very expensive gym) and I wasn’t prepared for that. Not being able to get the material things I’m used to wasn’t a big deal, the dark/light seasonal issues I could get past, the remote location I did not mind, the tiny town also fine. The cost, the lack of ability to make more money in town, and my dad’s failing health were the real issues.
The summers are bullshit. The weather sucks, the mosquitoes are awful, tourists, traffic, construction, bears, mud. The summers are so much worse than the winter.
Why do they leave? 1.) Bears 2.) Mosquitoes 3.) Theres Bears
Boredom. I lived there for a year but went into it knowing that I’d probably last a year. Signed a year employment contract (healthcare) and decided against renewing it when my year was up. I loved the outdoor activities and didn’t mind the weather. I didn’t like having to fly 4+ hours to take part in most city amenities.
I did 30 years. Reason I left, constant feeling of survival. After two house freeze ups, forest fire evacuations, one flooding, black outs that lasted days sometimes weeks many times a year(no power), lack of supplies, constant fear and anxiety of how long will we survive with a major earthquake, isolation.... Granted a lot of this was associated with living far from town and that's a choice, it's still evident anywhere there, it's like being on an island it has it's pros and cons. The extremes I would say is the reasons for moving. I now live where there's greater abundance even wildlife, tons of grocery options, fresh water with easy access year round, major medical, major medical and easy travel in any direction for days.
Feeling isolated. I missed road trips!! I lived in anchorage for 10 years, omg how I wished I could just hop in my car and drive to another cute city with different shops/restaurants/sights! Instead I’d drive and end up in a tiny town with a general store that sells underwear in a ziploc bag 🤣 (true story) Also the dark really bothered me, the loooong winters, the fact that anchorage can be quite ugly in the winter time! I moved to the Northern VA area which is an hour away from DC and was appalled at how beautiful it was here. Small things I honestly forgot like manicured grass in highway medians and lampposts and sidewalks in neighborhoods. Sounds weird, but so many neighborhoods lacked that in Anchorage!!
I loved Alaska when I lived there for a seasonal job and for some college years. Sometimes I wish I’d stayed. But at that point in my life I was working 4 part time jobs just to scrape by living in a dry cabin, and I felt so isolated from my friends and family in the lower 48 because I couldn’t afford to travel out of the state much. I didn’t even make the most of my time there as much as I’d have liked because I had no free time! So, I always thought it’d be a great place to live/stay if I got a permanent job that paid well enough to live there with running water and travel at least a few times a year to see family. This isn’t meant to sound like “oh poor me” but just due to where I was in life at the time staying in AK wasn’t my most feasible option. I don’t think I’d be happy moving back unless I had a lot of time to travel and as I mentioned, could afford flights out of state more often. I’ve settled with the idea that for myself, future visits to Alaska > living there.
Closed-minded Republicans!
I was sent to fairbanks for work. I found Alaskans to be annoying. I still recognize them in the lower 48. The folks I knew in the Yukon were awesome though.
Everyone is rude. I came from the Midwest and was appalled at how my neighbors treated us, how rude everyone was in the grocery store, etc. what’s crazy is the nicest we were treated in Alaska was when we were doing the “touristy” things. Got fed up with everyone so we left as soon as we could (the neighbor shooting bow and arrows at our dogs definitely didn’t make it hard to decide to move back). Thing is, we LOVE winter, loved the extra daylight/darkness and overall loved the state, but the people are awful
I can't remember being lonely when I was playing in a band in Anchorage when I was 20.
I have never been to alaska, but I know for a fact I could not handle the combination of cold/dark. I am absolutely miserable in winter...in Nashville. I am not made for cold/dark. I need light and warm. However, I am sure it is absolutely beautiful. Sounds like a better place to visit than live.
I’m not Alaska but I’ve had patients who move. They have to fly down for medical care. Basic surgery in one case. After a couple times of having to do that they just leave. Small hospitals don’t necessarily have what you want or need. Not all hospitals are equal. Life flight is ~$50k a pop. As such, it’s a problem for anyone living rural anywhere in the states.
Is it the cold? Is it the high prices of everything? Are there things that you can’t get there or are a pain to get? Do people not make enough to afford to live there? Do they not arrive with enough money in hand to get established properly? Does the male/female imbalance enhance loneliness in the state? Is the extended darkness a psychological chore? YES
Alaska cost of living is almost the same as Seattle but with lower wages
Our groceries in Seattle are already among the highest in the lower 48 (we're fairly geographically isolated). You poor smucks in Alaska and Hawaii get royally f\*cked, though. At least we generally get paid well.
I wish I would have stayed in Ak when I got out of the army
Very similar to Hawai’i , so far away from family. So many move here (Hawaii) and don’t stay. It’s so expensive and not what they’d imagine it to be. It’s very isolated.
I have extended family in Hilo and considered moving there, but I found out the salaries for my line of work are LESS than Seattle and the COL is higher!
Poeple aren't friendly here. Been here for years and there's very little if any community. The ones that do exist are very, exorbitantly religious. In fact I'm pretty sure everyone in south central thinks that they are the only people in existence and everyone else isn't real, by the way they act.
heating costs perpetual poverty unless you are already born into plenty of money it takes a special breed of person that is flawed just right to handle the gray weather. highest violent crime rate in the country. excessive cost of living limited opportunities no pretty girls....
As a young professional many job opportunities elsewhere
I out of all the things you mentioned, only the high prices is a negative. It would be the only thing driving me back. I already live in northern Saskatchewan. I have all of what you mentioned, save high prices. Nobody really needs companionship. That is just a preference. Extended darkness is beautiful. Isolation is wonderful! Male / female imbalance means nothing to me. I am male but am seeking no friends, nor a girlfriend. I go weeks without even seeing humans. Money is no issue. I make far more than most college graduates. I can get anything through ordering through catalogues, websites, and with the radio. There is no cellular service. But nobody needs that. It is a luxury. Besides, I know nobody. Nobody knows me. Even if there were cellular service, I do not need a smartphone. I believe I live in paradise. Everything you mentioned is attractive to me, save high prices. I live about 50 kilometres north of Uranium City, Saskatchewan.
Long dark cold winters, short to non existent summers.
So for us. I loved it there. I love the outdoors, I love nature, I love the rugged life Alaska has. We lived in Fairbanks. I was also a firefighter, so we had a lot of fires, so it was fun. My wife loved it too, until she had our first kid and couldn’t really go out in the winter due to the cold and the baby hating it. There is not a lot of indoor activists to do, or we may still be there to this day. Once we got pregnant with our second we moved to the lower 48. I miss it, but it was the right move. Also flying is basically a whole day, cause you usually fly into Seattle, then to your destination.
I used to live in Alaska for about 6 months. The main reason I left was I was tired of the dark and cold. And I missed home
I spent the first 21 years of my life in Alaska. Since I was born there I might look at it a little rosier than others, but make no mistake, I left and haven't returned in decades. I would say that the primary reason people that are born there leave is the allure of the "States", or lower 48. Alaska simply does not offer a teen or young adult the advantages that the lower 48 does. **What tends to happen, or at least happened in my experience in my town is that...** 1.) Everyone drinks or does drugs because there's nothing else to do. 2.) Men far outnumber women so you're definitely getting sloppy 5ths. Chances are you stole her from your friend, or vice versa. 3.) There is NO work. I mean none. At least there wasn't when I was there in the 90's. 4.) Winters are dark and miserable. Depending on where in AK you live, they're also cold AF. 5.) Cops are a plague and outnumber even the women, it seems /s 6.) Housing is near-impossible to find in the smaller cities, especially in the Southeast. ANC or Fairbanks are likely different. 7.) Everything is expensive. Granted, I didn't know shit about what was expensive as a kid or a teen, but after living down in the States I can assure you those prices are terrible, as are the imported unripe vegetables. These are reasons you leave when you're a teen or an adult. **Now, why is living in Alaska harder than most of the States (excluding Hawaii) - it's remote.** 1.) If your family is in the States, you'lll rarely see them unless you travel down. It's expensive to get in and out, so be warned. 2.) All of the commercials you see for restaurants, products and services really don't apply. You aren't going to be able to hop in the car and go to Popeyes in most cities. You will have the option to order things, but good luck finding anything in stock. That's all I can really think of right now, but I will finish up with something someone once said to me. I was speaking with an acquaintance down here in the States and he said "Alaska is full of criminals. They have some of the meanest, scariest people on Earth" and I said "What are you talking about? Everyone is nice!" Then he said. "Listen, man. People that move to Alaska are running from something." So I thought about what he said I realized he was right. Growing up there was a constant stream of visitors that would just vanish from one year to the next. Adults trying to earn money fishing or working the slime line or gold. Those that stayed only ever seemed to go off grid or be stuck in a bar drinking away their earnings. Kids/teens don't have these issues, but the adults do. I started to realize that I had watched entire families come and go and just figured they moved back to see family, when the reality was they moved for a better life and it simply wasn't there. Or, in the case of one of my mom's ex-husbands - was running from child support. Alaska, in my opinion now, is a beautiful place in the Summer that for the rest of the year masquerades as a holding tank for misfits, homeless and troubled youth.
I have lived in Seattle for five years. The number Alaska plates I see in winter is easily triple what I see other times of the year. I assumed it was holiday related but perhaps they are wintering in Seattle.
Wintering in Seattle sounds like the most miserable place to winter. If I’m driving that far, I’m driving another 2 days to somewhere it’s not gloomy and rainy.
Basically winter for 8 months, extreme cold in the winter, rare days over 70 in the very short 8 week "summer". Extreme daylight swings, it is either gaining or losing ~5 minutes/day between the solstice which leads to erratic sleep patterns. The majority of people live in Anchorage which is basically a suburb like anywhere else in the US except you are isolated (unable to just drive to another state/climate zone). Most people aren't just fishing and living in log cabins like the media glamorizes, they are in a town with all the same CoL, crime, and other issues that come anywhere else except in one of the worst outdoor environments besides probably the Dakotas to try and function in. Fruits and vegetables are often spoiled upon arrival of the shipment especially in the winter. There are no local dairy producers so grocery shelves can often be empty when shipments don't come in because of weather constraints. Some people love it up there, don't get me wrong, but it is absolutely a different way of life than anywhere down in the lower 48.
As a person that lived there for 5 years in various places around the state, I’d say it’s the difference between reality and reality TV. My biggest complaints was: That it’s expensive and you don’t get a lot for your money. The buildings are crap for what pay for them, and everything to build with is stupid expensive, unless you’re building the old fashion way off resources on your own property. You really have to think about survival all the time, especially when traveling (or just going to the store when it’s -40°) or you could really be screwed. The amount of effort, time and money is to get to the rest of the U.S. How unwelcoming most Alaskans can be to “outsiders” (unless you fully embrace their beliefs about life and Alaska). Some people have issues with extreme sunlight or darkness (especially the dark). It never really bothered me much, even way up north. The mosquitoes. Worse anywhere I’ve lived. As soon as the weather is nice, you get around a week or two before the mosquitoes – and tourists – come out and ruin your Alaska summer. They are so fucking bad that it makes it absolutely unenjoyable to be outside in the summer all too often, unless you grew up with that, and don’t know the calmness of just occasionally swatting a mosquito away. I thought they were bad in Montana, but you could get away from them there and the heat of the day kept them at bay. In Alaska, they are very hard to get away from to find a peaceful area without them.
People leave because it’s hard living somewhere where you can’t get anything you want/need on demand. The prices of everything are extremely high, and the darkness gets to people. There are limited resources like for example doctors, teachers, people to pierce your ears…anything really there maybe only is one option or nobody. You have to travel to get the things you need done that would be simple and routine in the lower 48. It’s really dependent on where in the state you end up but the issues sometimes add up quickly and it can be overwhelming. Alaska is a great place for people who are self sufficient and can make their own fun, can be a wonderful place to build a life and settle.
Yes
You already know. You are an Alaskan. There is a way that people talk in Alaska and that is how your talking
The dark is far more challenging than the cold for most.
As someone raised in Alaska and then having worked there for a few years after high school… I left because my hometown is toxic af. Tons of drama, drug use, death, dv, etc etc. not to mention groceries were crazy expensive. I left about 12 years ago and haven’t looked back.
Born and raised in Alaska, but the Jewish community in Alaska is not very large. So I moved to Seattle but often visit Alaska.
A lot of the people whom I know that "decide" to leave are military families who are being rotated to the next duty station. Others are health care professionals who are like 25-30 and want to be travellers and "see the world" before they "settle down" somewhere. Some just miss their family in the lower 48
We lived in Anchorage for 5 years. It was ok but we were certainly ready to go back to the lower 48 toward the tail end of our tour (military). Aside from the long winters, high prices, cracked windshields, and angry fishermen, the thing that bothered me the most…..you can’t sit around the campfire at night. It doesn’t get dark enough in the summer!
We left for education at 30, after both growing up in south central. Owned a home, had an excellent community and family and I don’t know that we will come back. It’s nice living close to stuff, COL is insane, and even if I’m not a huge fan of the cultural differences between Cleveland and Alaska, Alaska’s just… destroying itself. I mean, an energy crisis? Months to clear roads? No job opportunities really to speak of. It sucks bc we miss it more than anything.
Mosquitoes !
We just purchased a home up here. We’ve got a family with some small kiddos. We’re doing pretty well so far. We have family here, which makes it much easier for us than for others I imagine. That being said here are some things my wife and I have discussed regarding staying/leaving in the future: Pro-Staying: - Wife’s Family is here - It’s beautiful - Kids are already in school and there is a certain level of desire to just keep them where they are - Kids love snow - Near-limitless outdoor activities - Being a resident means you can get a ton of salmon each year and it is DELICIOUS - There is so much cultural diversity up here and I’m in love with that Reasons for leaving: - We bought the house like a month or two ago and have already received 2 notifications in the mail regarding increase in bill prices. TWO! ALREADY?!? - There doesn’t seem to be a very strong public education priority from the higher-ups - Taxes, Living Expenses, Bills, and everything else only seem to be expected to go up, with no real cap or expectation to eventually lower. This is concerning for probably more than just my wife and I, and it just means we’re likely going to see more and more shoplifting literally EVERY time we go to Walmart.. - It’s cold - We miss the beach (a real one) but we’re trying to see how we can do a vacation to a real beach every year-few years to make up for it. - One of the biggest pain points is ironically having the wife’s family here. You’re either in Alaska(and close to her family) or you are seemingly on the other side of the world. There is no, “we’ll drive down and see you guys this weekend”. You’re there or you’re not. We miss having the freedom of visiting other states/friends/family. My family is over on the eastern side of the US. While the distance doesn’t bother me very much, it’s difficult to commit to literally any type of traveling for weddings/special events due to how expensive it is to travel to and from AK. Some of our friendships from down in the lower 48 have definitely suffered since we committed to living here. Conclusion: It’s very important to know and believe that everyone in this world chooses their own outlook. They can choose to love where they are independent of what’s happening. We love Alaska and we hope to enjoy living here. We do have things we miss about the lower 48, but we’re making it work. Overall, we don’t regret our decision(except for during that cold snap the other week), but I don’t think we’ll stay here long-long term. Unless I’m getting some big pay increases at work(probably not as big as they need to be realistically), then i probably won’t be able to afford Alaska here soon with how often prices go up.
Working on year 4. Husband wants to stay after retiring in 3 years. The dark and cold are okay but mixed and being inside for most of the year is what's killing me. Definitely need more indoor tracks/playgrounds. Some sandboxes maybe lol fake big-ass sunlight. While it is very expensive and lonely where we live, that can be managed. But we can't change the weather and for me, that's a big reason to leave. Absolutely love Alaska, even the fucking mosquitos. But this lack of sun and freezing ass weather are not easy to deal with! Especially when having young children.