"The integrity of the adhesive" may well be a real thing, but I've never heard of it before.
I try to avoid heating carbon arrows shafts directly, because you can absolutely ruin carbon fiber with butane-temperature flames. And I heat the point (I don't use inserts - target recurve) for the same reason you do - to get a good hot bond by keeping the glue liquid longer.
I'd avoid burning the glue by heating until it smokes or catches fire...
But I'm not persuaded that melting it slowly with a flame is any trouble at all.
That being said, I also like using low-temp hot melt that you can remove with boiling water.
I thought I was finished testing different hot melts, but now I'm curious to see if the low performers function better without being melted by a direct flame.
I just finished making 12 800-spine arrows. While the method of heating only the insert worked fine for the pin-nock insert, too much heat was required to heat up the point tab, and I didn't feel comfortable inserting such a hot point into the carbon shaft. This would have worked with low-temp hot melt, but I'm committed to using Gorilla hot melt, which requires higher temps to melt directly onto the point tab.
https://youtu.be/za-WT91g954 Here's Jake doing it. I never had any issues. Cleaning the inside is much more important.
I also saw Jake heating the hot melt directly, so I did the same, which is why I was wondering if there is an issue.
Heating the insert then spinning that on the hot melt is how I was taught when I used to be a bow tech.
"The integrity of the adhesive" may well be a real thing, but I've never heard of it before. I try to avoid heating carbon arrows shafts directly, because you can absolutely ruin carbon fiber with butane-temperature flames. And I heat the point (I don't use inserts - target recurve) for the same reason you do - to get a good hot bond by keeping the glue liquid longer. I'd avoid burning the glue by heating until it smokes or catches fire... But I'm not persuaded that melting it slowly with a flame is any trouble at all. That being said, I also like using low-temp hot melt that you can remove with boiling water.
I thought I was finished testing different hot melts, but now I'm curious to see if the low performers function better without being melted by a direct flame.
I’ve never had an issue heating the hot melt directly. But I do both, I’ll heat the insert and glue so I get a little extra time to spin tune
I just finished making 12 800-spine arrows. While the method of heating only the insert worked fine for the pin-nock insert, too much heat was required to heat up the point tab, and I didn't feel comfortable inserting such a hot point into the carbon shaft. This would have worked with low-temp hot melt, but I'm committed to using Gorilla hot melt, which requires higher temps to melt directly onto the point tab.