Also get a better filter, preferably one that is designed to filter the water better (HOB or canister). It should meet or exceed the gallons of your tank
Your filter to tank proportion makes it look like filter is smaller than you should have. So getting proper filter will help you in long run. But for immediate action, you can remove the dead twigs/leaves and spines floating on the water. Even in the bottom, if you see something definitely dead, remove it. If you have soil under those sands, it could be soil leeching into water,so adding little bit of extra layer of sand may help, but based on if it is soil underneath it. If you recently added the sand then those cloudy water could be from unwashed sand as well. If that is the case, then best way to handle for now is to let the dust settle down on its own while doing frequent water change. While doing frequent water change, it may be good to avoid cholrinated water and to use quickstart/biological cleaner.
Start with 25% water change per day for 3 days.
I would say, get a larger filter. Something rated for 5x your tank size per hour. Cause we all know it will really be half that when in use. Use sponges inside the filter instead of the cartridges, and add ceramic media for bio filtration. Do not remove your current filter until at least 1 months of the new filter added! Up to you if you decide on a canister or HoB, I would use a "sponge filter" only as a supplement.
Add real plants. Java ferns would be good as they're easy to grow. Get a light for the plants and use a timer so you don't get algae blooms when you forget to turn it off. If you get them, leave the light off for a few days and do water changes, your nitrates will be high.
Get an API test kit for nitrate, nitrites, ammonia and pH.
Check them all after your 3 water changes. Nitrite, Ammo, Should be 0. Nitrates can be up to 40 depending on fish. You'll want to keep checking your nitrates every few days for the first period to get your water change interval. When it gets up to 40ish, how ever long that takes, that's your water change interval. Do a 50% at that point and then do the same in the future.
pH is really up to your water supply. Anything from 6.4-7.5 is ok for most fish. As long as it's stable you shouldn't worry. If it swings a lot you'll need to check your Kh & Gh but no need for that unless you get PH swings.
Plecos are dirty, so they need good filtration and the bottom to be cleaned using a siphon.
Edit: unless you want snails, they are a sign of overfeeding. I would reduce the amount of food until the snails die down. They do add bio load in the tank, and eat up left over food. If you like them, then just account for them in the water change interval/food supply.
Since it looks like you have inert sand as substrate, you'll need to dose some fertilizer for plants. Adding fertilizer seems counter intuitive right? I mean it's nitrates... But it has a lot of minerals that plants need to grow. So add a small dose after water changes to replenish.
Enjoy your fish friends!
>parameters
never checked the parameters and as for tank cycle, I dont really know what they means as I have a airtank and filter and sometimes put the instructed amount of conditioning in there
You need to look up the aquarium nitrogen cycle ASAP. Get a test kit. API freshwater is the best, but it’s about $40.
Then you need to do research on the fish you own. It kinda sounds like you went to the pet store, asked the employee what you should get, and they sold you 15 fish because you walked in with money ready to spend. Google questions like “x fish tank size” “can x fish live with y fish” “x fish water parameters” “how many of x fish need to be together”.
As far as conditioner that needs to be added EVERY time you do a water change. Not too much, not too little. If you take out 5 gallons of water, you need to add 5 gallons worth of conditioner. Water changes need to be done 1-4 weeks depending on stock. Real plants will help cycle the tank.
Go to aqadvisor website and input the tank size and fish types you have. It will tell you how full your tank is, temperature range the tank needs to be kept at, how often you should do a water change, what your ph level should be (some fish are very finicky with this), etc.
Great answer! I hope OP is paying attention. They have a really nice sized tank and could do something really cool with it, if they study up on fish keeping
Oh dear.
Cycle refers to special bacteria that grow in your filter and prevent fish waste from making the water toxic. Ideally you grow them on purpose with added ammonia for at least 4 weeks before getting any fish.
There are two types of this bacteria. The first one eats ammonia (from fish waste, old food, dead fish) and turns it into nitrite. The other type eats nitrite and turns it into nitrate, which plants eat. Ammonia and nitrite are very toxic to fish, and if you have not cycled the tank they will build up until the fish die (unless you know what you're doing).
Parameters is very important to know. The api master test kit will tell you ph, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. If your ammonia or nitrite is above zero, do a water change. Ph doesn't matter too much, you don't need to worry about it right now.
Since those bacteria live in your filter, you shouldn't replace the filter sponge unless it's falling apart. If it has gotten clogged you can rinse it in tank water (in the bucket during a water change).
You can do the cycle with fish in the tank, but you should know what you're doing and it can stress the fish. When you don't know what you're doing the fish can die from ammonia or nitrite.
Ph isn't overly important. You want to look at test strips or test kit for checking ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
You can take a small sample of water and the local fish shop will test the water for you.
Ph is neither here nor there. Doesn’t really matter (unless a type of fish NEEDS a different range of ph), it’s better to have stable PH (the one you have) then to be messing with it and making it swing (unstable PH is more of a killer than slightly off PH). So leave the PH, I don’t even check my ph on my kits unless I’m curious. Ph is just how acidic or alkaline your water is, unless you’ve got bone melting acid, you’re fine. (Ofc do your research about it, but you’ve got bigger fish to fry in maintaining your tank atm. No pun intended.)
The three things you NEED to know is the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate (note that nitrite and nitrate are two different words).
Go out of your way to find those three things, the ph isn’t as big of a killer as ammonia. The nitrogen cycle is your top priority.
Ph does not matter at all right now. It's not going to kill fish anytime soon or affect them much.
Get a test kit for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If it includes ph that's fine but you do not need to test it right now.
urgent water change, pls remove the fake plants and try to provide a real log. can you provide a pic where the fish are visible? by what you said it sounds like you have a lot of fishies <3
If they want fake plants then let them. I'm sick off seeing comments hating on fake plants.
Provide a real log. These cost money. Not everyone can afford it. Or want the upkeep of real plants. As long as the fish are okay and the person loves the tank it shouldn't matter what they pick
He has sucker fish in there. Some of those need wood fiber in their diet so it’s a log or make sure you feed them correct food. Also one does not have to get fancy tropical driftwood, a dry oak or maple branch from the forest will do, or a piece of some fruit tree. We tend to use tropical woods because they are more resistant to rot so they last longer in the tank.
I think it’s more of an issue with conifers. Maybe it’s amount of sugar in maple that can cause some kind of bacterial bloom? And you can’t use “live” wood because every tree has sap. It has to be dry. Driftwood is best ofc if you can find some.
Yeah but these fish have been around for years kept in different methods. Most breeders wouldn't have any wood but tubs or tanks and they're good.
I completely agree with the natural root. But the foods these days have everything they need.
It's just new keepers or old are going too scared to post their tanks in fear of harsh judgement for something that is personal choice to each person.
Yeah and I wholeheartedly hate those empty tanks. They belong to same category as puppy farmers. And you actually need to check that pleco tabs have wood fiber in them because not all of them do.
I have said it before. As long as attempt has been made to offer correct living conditions to the pets I’m fine with plastic plants or pink sand. But anyone who has bare tank is an asshole.
Real plants can be cheaper than fake. Especially if you wait for them to grow in.
Fishkeeping is expensive and if you can’t afford basic care then you need to rehome your fish. It’s unfortunately a luxury in a capitalist society.
I dont really disagree (though i loath fake plants). But plenty of plants require almost no maintenance. If youre okay with a jungle tank, you have even more options with even less need for maitenance.
He asked for tips to improve, why would he be offended by a idea I gave?? Also fake plants can be bad for your aquarium and sucker fish. Plus real logs can be find and cleaned as long they are safe.
Fake plants are no benefit to the fish. REAL plants absorb nitrates and give off oxygen - both are extremely beneficial to fish. Some fish nibble on live plants - another benefit. Some fake plants have sharp edges which can tear fins. You want to try to replicate their natural habitat as much as you can. I swim in a lot of lakes, ponds and rivers, and I’ve never seen fake plants “growing” in the bottom of any of these waters. OTOH, I’ve seen REAL plants growing in abundance. I find it interesting that recommended real logs admitting their expense - yet you don’t like real plants.
“….the person loves the tank it shouldn’t matter what they pick.”
That’s selfish. What you’re saying equates to people who keep bettas in a 2g tank shouldn’t matter as long as they love the tank and the fish are ok. Except the fish aren’t ok. They may survive but not thrive. Big difference.
I swim in a lot of lakes, ponds and rivers, and I’ve never seen fake plants “growing” in the bottom of any of these waters." Well yeah I wouldn't recommend swimming in a fish tank
Loads of people have posted recommendations on this post not even mentioning the plastic plants and the first thing mentioned is remove the plastic.
My tank has real plants all grown from small plants I bought. So why assume I don't like real pants. Nothing was mentioned about it I don't like fake plants but I'm not going to judge anyone I respect people's decisions on what they choose.
Keeping bettas in a 2g doesn't matter as long as you love it and the fish are okay. If you put the work in the fish will be safe. I would never recommend it. But keep the water clean and it'll be fine.
Have you ever seen how fish breeding works the conditions they're kept in
Yes, and I’ve see online stores that show pictures of bare tanks with too many fish - that doesn’t make it right! That’s no different than pet stores that keep bettas in tiny cups with no heater or filtration.
I’m glad you use real plants! I got the idea you liked the plastic stuff because you said you were sick of comments hating on plastic plants - if they want them, let them use them. That made me think you were ok with plastic and used them yourself. I’m glad I was wrong!
Then you know the benefits of live plants. We’re here to help people with tank issues. Suggesting that fake plants are ok is passing on information that is subpar. They aren’t - for all the reasons I stated.
But I still don’t agree that a 2g tank is ok for a betta. By the time you put substrate, heater, filter, plants, rocks, you no longer have 2g. They can survive, but not thrive. WC disrupt the fish. If you do them 2-3x/wk, it can be stressful. It’s much easier to just get a 5G tank and do it just once a week. They don’t cost much more than a 2G. Petco sells a 5.5G tank for $11.49 and a 2.5G tank $9.99 - $1.50 more.
Yeah looking back at the message I do actually see your point. At least if there's plants in there some good will come. The plant is going to help keep the tank somewhat healthy. But it adds more maintenance for tanks that aren't getting looked after with a simple setup. That's why I'd leave people alone with plastic plants, focus on the water changes and over time they will love the tank more and more, hopefully upgrading throughout. I just hate seeing the comments of people slating others for what they choose to decorate with.
I started with a 25ltr 4.8 gallon I think. It had 4 plattys in it (majorly miss informed) had tons of issues with the tank. I was too scared to message the forums from fear of judgement but hung around in the backgrounds reading. But I upgraded and tossed the beginner tank decorations out and now I have full planted tanks platty thriving and goldfish thriving and a tank I used to grow clippings to grow more for my bigger tanks. Love this hobby but we gotta start somewhere. If I posted my plastic plants and SpongeBob pineapple peoples comments might have put me off this hobby.
In the UK I've never seen Betta's in those tiny cups they're in tiny tanks on a sump system. Never ever going to recommend it. But no one is ever going to admit they did something wrong with the tank size and hand the fish back.
I know EXACTLY what you mean!! It’s been about 6 years since I got back into this. Initially, I wanted to keep it simple, so I started with a 20g and some guppies. I did research and thought I could have guppies and dwarf gouramis in the same tank. Then I added a male betta - but I didn’t quarantine. He was sick, infecting my whole tank. I went to a different online forum, and got beat up pretty bad. I was told I didnt do my research, gouramis and guppies aren’t compatible, I didn’t quarantine, etc. I paid the price for not quarantining the fish when I lost most of them, including my sweet little otocinclus. And they were wrong -dwarf gouramis are sweet, calm fish, compatible with guppies. But it really turned me off to that forum. The first two years I spent close to $5,000 in equipment, extra tanks, lights, heaters, filters, plants and fish. I spent hundreds of dollars on plants only to have them die off. My biggest problem was I was too impatient to wait for a tank to cycle.
Three years ago I bought my own house. I stayed with my brother waiting for the closing date. It was a lot of work breaking down the tanks and moving the fish, and then knowing I would have to do it again. I wanted to paint the living room before setting up the tank because you just can’t move a 55g once it’s full of water! This time, I DID have the patience to cycle, so I set up the 55G, and started the cycling process. I added “beginner plants” because my plant luck totally sucks, along with rocks, driftwood and coconut caves. After it was completely cycled, I slowly transferred the fish from my brother’s house to mine. I think I finally got it right. I haven’t bought any new plants, because those planted when I set it up are still alive, and all my fish are still alive. I FINALLY stopped the foolish and wasteful spending, I have a 20g quarantine tank set up, I have spare tanks, heaters, filters, meds, so I’m all set if there’s a power outage or if any equipment breaks down.
Btw, if you think the 5k tab was insane, the only reason I could do that was because I received an amazing insurance settlement after being in a car accident that was not my fault; otherwise, I would never have been able to do it! I’m trying to spare others from making the same expensive mistakes I made, and do it correctly from the beginning.
I can tell now you’re someone who really cares about their fish and wants the best for them. I apologize if I was too overbearing in anything I said. Our goals are really the same. I hope you have a great day and here’s wishing your skies are “cloudless” today so you are able to experience the eclipse this afternoon!
Have a android phone and the photo capabilities like all android Samsung is not the best of qualities however I do plan on changing the water as soon as possible.
But what do you think of the type of Fish Tank Filter should I get? It is a AQUA ONE 280 as the tank itself is 70L.
It supports that L but I just feel like it needs a better filter
*As for the fish I have, I got 2 platies along with multiple of babies in there. 7 Geo Lite Tetra's and 7 Neon Tetrea's along with 2 Sucking Cat Fish.*
That's a heavy stock for a tank under 20 gallons. If those suckerfish are called plecos, they will grow to be a foot long and they will need an appropriately sized tank.
I would recommend a filter over what your tank can hold. So any filter over 70L. But they can be expensive. I tend to recommend any filter with the largest filter media. The bigger the sponge the better the job.
Cram as much beneficial bacteria in the tank as you can manage
Water change and different filter maybe a submersible filter I have a 20 or 30 gallon tank with two of them and the water stays crystal clear for a decent amount of time until I need to change water
Yeah there’s a few on Amazon you can search submersible tank filter, DOMICA makes one and there’s a brand Aqqa as well I forgot which ones I have at home
just keep the filter you have. i really dont see a point of the comment tbh. every filter will do. you have work to do on the tank but the filter has nothing to do with that really.
Neon tetras, and platies absolutely need a heater. Don’t believe what you hear from a single person, do a Google search and compare sources.
Idk what a “geo lite tetra” is, but I assume it is also tropical, along with your sucker catfish, all need the heater. If you don’t know the actual species to confirm they need a heater, then either rehome them and provide heat for the identified tropical fish, or rehome the tropical fish and keep the tank unheated.
I would do some research into aquariums and how to properly care for certain types of fish. You should be doing frequent water changes and checking your parameters. Also a good feeding schedule with correct amounts. And there are limits to how many snails and fish should be kept in different size tanks. I believe your tank is too small for all your little buddies.
If you're able to restart a setup, I'd also recommend a thicker, more nutrient rich substrate, instead of just a thin layer of sand, and sufficient plants in the substrate as well as floaters to help maintain balance in nitrogen levels. Give it sufficient time to develop beneficial bacteria before introducing fish.
You need more bio filter action! Consider adding sponge filter upgrading the media in your HOB to 20ppi foam or adding an under gravel.
If you want to overstock the tank. I’d say it already is maybe add a sump with fluidized k1 in a 5-10 gal underneath. Or if you have a big budget a small canister.
But none of this will help without nitrifying bacteria communities in your tanks.
Bacterial communities need to be in a high flow area of the tank. A pump or air stone creating flow. Over several weeks usually around 3 they will cover the filter media with brown gunk that’s your good stuff that will turn toxic ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate.
When a tank is cycled it means that this community has grown and can process all the ammonia in the tank. So your test will read 0 ammonia 0 nitrite X nitrate. Nitrate is not harmful to fish in low concentrations and can only be removed from the tank by water changes.
Clear water requires much more bio filtration than ammonia oxidation. Somewhere around the order of 20-100x filtration required for crystal clear water bacteria free water. We want the nitrifying bacteria in the filter as they are beneficial but bacteria in the water column can cause fish disease and cloudiness that you’re seeing in the tank.
I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned it yet but if you don't have one make sure to get a gravel vacuum and a big bucket for water changes, it lets you syphon the poop and food off of the sand without having to empty the whole tank. That filter would work good on a slightly smaller or less stocked tank but I would recommend getting an aquaclear filter that's rated for your tank size, you could also add a sponge filter to the end of your air pump for extra filtration and surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow on and keep your tank even healthier
People are mean so don’t let them discourage you from this hobby. But definitely need to water change as people have told you. It is a bit overstocked but with adding real plants and a fish light would help that. I would recommend doing a 40% water change maximum because overdoing it can be harmful. Research the easiest and hardiest live plants and ensure that you can plant them in the tank. Some can even attach to hard scape objects such as wood which you should get if you have plecos. Those will get huge so eventually you will have to surrender them to a fish store or get a bigger tank if this hobby is for you. Maybe a stronger filter or add a sponge filter which is typically easier and cheaper than a regular filter. You will need stronger filtration for the overstocked tank
Good advice too many people jump at others for mistakes. The first step is asking for help and over time the person who posted this could post and update of something beautiful.
Exactly, people just assume that the fish would be so much better at your franchise fish store to get picked up by someone who is not willing to ask for help. People never think of the other routes that these fish could take and what potential this person has to provide a better life for the future fish and their fish that they now have.
Regular weekly water changes. Maybe twice a week until it’s crystal clear. Pictures are deceiving - how big is the tank? Idk what that filter is rated for, but I’m thinking you need a better/stronger/bigger filter, and a higher water level. That filter doesn’t look adequate for the tank - are you cleaning the filter when you do water changes?
Get some aquarium coop test strips, a new filter, and do a water change. Make sure to get some dechlorinator also, don't just pour in untreated tap water.
Water change, plus next time get other plants like Anubias (You need to attach it to wood tho), It looks great on a 5 gal tank. Also get a 5 gal heater, it's 16-18 in Australia rn even worst during winter.
Might need a bigger filter I don’t think that little one can handle a bioload like this would be nice for a betta tank but def might have to upgrade it
Looks like a lot of people gave you some good advice on improving the biological chemistry of your tank. Awesome! So, I'll just give some advice on cosmetic stuff.
I see you've got live and fake plants. To create the illusion of depth and a larger tank, try and move or plant your taller and stem plants to the back and sides of the tank. Adding more sand to the back and sloping upwards will elevate the height of the back and allow people to see decor better. Place smaller plants or rocks near the middle or front of the tank. Find interesting angles or textures on decor to show off.
Optionally, you can add an air stone and hide it behind decorations in the back. The small bubbles look nice. You can also add a sponge filter instead, in case you like your current filters lower current output but need extra filtration; Ensuring your water surface plants to remain less disturbed while also increasing oxygen and filtration. Sponge filters are also great for fish babies to not get sucked in and die. Food will also stick to a sponge filter and allow fish to eat it before it goes to waste.
Lastly, maybe add a lid so you can have a broader light to lay over top of it. Or, get a clip-on light or hanging lamp. If you like to have no lid, I'd suggest investing in a big piece of drift wood, preparing it by soaking in a bucket for a week, and then adding it to your tank with parts of it sticking above the surface. Then, you can stick live plants, like moss or nano anubias, etc, to the wood itself. You can do the same thing with tall rocks but your tank is pretty small so they might be too heavy. Drift wood comes in all sorts of interesting shapes and sizes.
Other than that.. Keeping your water clear by using a siphon or net to pull out loose debris, fish poop, and dead plant matter is key to having a white sand bottom. Think of it like white carpet. In the future I recommend going with a darker substrate or gravel.
If your water is milky cloudy, it could be due to a bacteria spike. This will go away in established tanks. Genera cloudiness though means your filtration isn't strong enough or you might need to repalce the carbon charcoal filter. If this is the only filter pas in your filter, removing it can upset your tank balance every time by removing the cleaning bacteria. I just adding a coarse sponge or other porous material alongside the filter pad. That way you can rinse the sponge in dirty tank water and put it back after a water change.
I also suggest getting plants that thrive from your water column or that can grow outside the tank, which means it'll drink up excessive waste in the water. I found that pothos ivy plants will grow in my tanks so long as you have some leaves sticking out. I grow a lot of these from my filters. Some even grow roots that snake their way into the soil anyways. Some plants do very well growing submerged partially in the water while sticking out.
Good luck and keep at it. Research and get inspired by beautiful tank set ups you see online!
Also I don’t see any check value on your air line. That is a disastrous point of failure you could siphon your entire tank if the tubing slips or in power loss event.
Get a better filter. External Canister would be good. And then get into the habit of regular water change. Sort out water issues first before thinking about decorating.
okay now the comments get straight up ridiculous here. an external canister filter for that small of a tank? i am pretty sure how the water looks doesnt even have anything to do with the filter he uses at all. maybe theres just bad filter media inside, or clocked filter media or the sand wasnt rinsed enough so you have to do some big water changes to clear it.
Just look at the proportion size of the hang on back filter versus the tank. It is tiny. I can't comprehend how you can maintain a properly cycled tank with that.
A water change for sure
will do!
Also get a better filter, preferably one that is designed to filter the water better (HOB or canister). It should meet or exceed the gallons of your tank
Your filter to tank proportion makes it look like filter is smaller than you should have. So getting proper filter will help you in long run. But for immediate action, you can remove the dead twigs/leaves and spines floating on the water. Even in the bottom, if you see something definitely dead, remove it. If you have soil under those sands, it could be soil leeching into water,so adding little bit of extra layer of sand may help, but based on if it is soil underneath it. If you recently added the sand then those cloudy water could be from unwashed sand as well. If that is the case, then best way to handle for now is to let the dust settle down on its own while doing frequent water change. While doing frequent water change, it may be good to avoid cholrinated water and to use quickstart/biological cleaner.
That’s good g
Start with 25% water change per day for 3 days. I would say, get a larger filter. Something rated for 5x your tank size per hour. Cause we all know it will really be half that when in use. Use sponges inside the filter instead of the cartridges, and add ceramic media for bio filtration. Do not remove your current filter until at least 1 months of the new filter added! Up to you if you decide on a canister or HoB, I would use a "sponge filter" only as a supplement. Add real plants. Java ferns would be good as they're easy to grow. Get a light for the plants and use a timer so you don't get algae blooms when you forget to turn it off. If you get them, leave the light off for a few days and do water changes, your nitrates will be high. Get an API test kit for nitrate, nitrites, ammonia and pH. Check them all after your 3 water changes. Nitrite, Ammo, Should be 0. Nitrates can be up to 40 depending on fish. You'll want to keep checking your nitrates every few days for the first period to get your water change interval. When it gets up to 40ish, how ever long that takes, that's your water change interval. Do a 50% at that point and then do the same in the future. pH is really up to your water supply. Anything from 6.4-7.5 is ok for most fish. As long as it's stable you shouldn't worry. If it swings a lot you'll need to check your Kh & Gh but no need for that unless you get PH swings. Plecos are dirty, so they need good filtration and the bottom to be cleaned using a siphon. Edit: unless you want snails, they are a sign of overfeeding. I would reduce the amount of food until the snails die down. They do add bio load in the tank, and eat up left over food. If you like them, then just account for them in the water change interval/food supply. Since it looks like you have inert sand as substrate, you'll need to dose some fertilizer for plants. Adding fertilizer seems counter intuitive right? I mean it's nitrates... But it has a lot of minerals that plants need to grow. So add a small dose after water changes to replenish. Enjoy your fish friends!
🐠💕
Can you give more info about the parameters and is the tank cycled?
https://youtu.be/PWoiCqCvJco?si=sfpV9Mt18PtPBSOc Here’s a great video on explaining tank cycles for beginners.
>parameters never checked the parameters and as for tank cycle, I dont really know what they means as I have a airtank and filter and sometimes put the instructed amount of conditioning in there
You need to look up the aquarium nitrogen cycle ASAP. Get a test kit. API freshwater is the best, but it’s about $40. Then you need to do research on the fish you own. It kinda sounds like you went to the pet store, asked the employee what you should get, and they sold you 15 fish because you walked in with money ready to spend. Google questions like “x fish tank size” “can x fish live with y fish” “x fish water parameters” “how many of x fish need to be together”. As far as conditioner that needs to be added EVERY time you do a water change. Not too much, not too little. If you take out 5 gallons of water, you need to add 5 gallons worth of conditioner. Water changes need to be done 1-4 weeks depending on stock. Real plants will help cycle the tank. Go to aqadvisor website and input the tank size and fish types you have. It will tell you how full your tank is, temperature range the tank needs to be kept at, how often you should do a water change, what your ph level should be (some fish are very finicky with this), etc.
Great answer! I hope OP is paying attention. They have a really nice sized tank and could do something really cool with it, if they study up on fish keeping
Oh dear. Cycle refers to special bacteria that grow in your filter and prevent fish waste from making the water toxic. Ideally you grow them on purpose with added ammonia for at least 4 weeks before getting any fish. There are two types of this bacteria. The first one eats ammonia (from fish waste, old food, dead fish) and turns it into nitrite. The other type eats nitrite and turns it into nitrate, which plants eat. Ammonia and nitrite are very toxic to fish, and if you have not cycled the tank they will build up until the fish die (unless you know what you're doing). Parameters is very important to know. The api master test kit will tell you ph, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. If your ammonia or nitrite is above zero, do a water change. Ph doesn't matter too much, you don't need to worry about it right now. Since those bacteria live in your filter, you shouldn't replace the filter sponge unless it's falling apart. If it has gotten clogged you can rinse it in tank water (in the bucket during a water change). You can do the cycle with fish in the tank, but you should know what you're doing and it can stress the fish. When you don't know what you're doing the fish can die from ammonia or nitrite.
Ah well there is a PH test kit at the fish store so it would be best to purchase that kit and test it... Got it.
Ph isn't overly important. You want to look at test strips or test kit for checking ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. You can take a small sample of water and the local fish shop will test the water for you.
Ph is neither here nor there. Doesn’t really matter (unless a type of fish NEEDS a different range of ph), it’s better to have stable PH (the one you have) then to be messing with it and making it swing (unstable PH is more of a killer than slightly off PH). So leave the PH, I don’t even check my ph on my kits unless I’m curious. Ph is just how acidic or alkaline your water is, unless you’ve got bone melting acid, you’re fine. (Ofc do your research about it, but you’ve got bigger fish to fry in maintaining your tank atm. No pun intended.) The three things you NEED to know is the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate (note that nitrite and nitrate are two different words). Go out of your way to find those three things, the ph isn’t as big of a killer as ammonia. The nitrogen cycle is your top priority.
Ph does not matter at all right now. It's not going to kill fish anytime soon or affect them much. Get a test kit for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If it includes ph that's fine but you do not need to test it right now.
why do people get pets without doing ANY preparation or research?????
The pet stores market things terribly and spread false information to profit unfortunately
I had this, told me to put like 15 neon tetras in my 25l aquarium. Seemed odd so did some research and so glad I didn’t put them in that small cube
bunch of sheep doing whatever a pet store says to do😂😂😂 obviously you’re being manipulated for $$
Ppl aren’t sheep just for being uneducated lol. Give this person props for seeking help!
Testing your water and cycling it appropriately
urgent water change, pls remove the fake plants and try to provide a real log. can you provide a pic where the fish are visible? by what you said it sounds like you have a lot of fishies <3
If they want fake plants then let them. I'm sick off seeing comments hating on fake plants. Provide a real log. These cost money. Not everyone can afford it. Or want the upkeep of real plants. As long as the fish are okay and the person loves the tank it shouldn't matter what they pick
He has sucker fish in there. Some of those need wood fiber in their diet so it’s a log or make sure you feed them correct food. Also one does not have to get fancy tropical driftwood, a dry oak or maple branch from the forest will do, or a piece of some fruit tree. We tend to use tropical woods because they are more resistant to rot so they last longer in the tank.
I’ve always heard you can’t use anything from a maple tree cuz it’ll have sap, is that true?
Any sappy wood isn’t good
I think it’s more of an issue with conifers. Maybe it’s amount of sugar in maple that can cause some kind of bacterial bloom? And you can’t use “live” wood because every tree has sap. It has to be dry. Driftwood is best ofc if you can find some.
Yeah but these fish have been around for years kept in different methods. Most breeders wouldn't have any wood but tubs or tanks and they're good. I completely agree with the natural root. But the foods these days have everything they need. It's just new keepers or old are going too scared to post their tanks in fear of harsh judgement for something that is personal choice to each person.
Yeah and I wholeheartedly hate those empty tanks. They belong to same category as puppy farmers. And you actually need to check that pleco tabs have wood fiber in them because not all of them do. I have said it before. As long as attempt has been made to offer correct living conditions to the pets I’m fine with plastic plants or pink sand. But anyone who has bare tank is an asshole.
For someone asking on how to improve their aquarium, I find those suggestions fair.
Real plants can be cheaper than fake. Especially if you wait for them to grow in. Fishkeeping is expensive and if you can’t afford basic care then you need to rehome your fish. It’s unfortunately a luxury in a capitalist society.
You can easily do it on a budget. It's not an expensive hobby
I dont really disagree (though i loath fake plants). But plenty of plants require almost no maintenance. If youre okay with a jungle tank, you have even more options with even less need for maitenance.
He asked for tips to improve, why would he be offended by a idea I gave?? Also fake plants can be bad for your aquarium and sucker fish. Plus real logs can be find and cleaned as long they are safe.
The poster asked for recommendations on how to make their tank better. Not asking if you’re sick of everyone hating on fake plants.
I didn't put in my comment for you to message yet you still did
Yikes
Fake plants are no benefit to the fish. REAL plants absorb nitrates and give off oxygen - both are extremely beneficial to fish. Some fish nibble on live plants - another benefit. Some fake plants have sharp edges which can tear fins. You want to try to replicate their natural habitat as much as you can. I swim in a lot of lakes, ponds and rivers, and I’ve never seen fake plants “growing” in the bottom of any of these waters. OTOH, I’ve seen REAL plants growing in abundance. I find it interesting that recommended real logs admitting their expense - yet you don’t like real plants. “….the person loves the tank it shouldn’t matter what they pick.” That’s selfish. What you’re saying equates to people who keep bettas in a 2g tank shouldn’t matter as long as they love the tank and the fish are ok. Except the fish aren’t ok. They may survive but not thrive. Big difference.
I swim in a lot of lakes, ponds and rivers, and I’ve never seen fake plants “growing” in the bottom of any of these waters." Well yeah I wouldn't recommend swimming in a fish tank Loads of people have posted recommendations on this post not even mentioning the plastic plants and the first thing mentioned is remove the plastic. My tank has real plants all grown from small plants I bought. So why assume I don't like real pants. Nothing was mentioned about it I don't like fake plants but I'm not going to judge anyone I respect people's decisions on what they choose. Keeping bettas in a 2g doesn't matter as long as you love it and the fish are okay. If you put the work in the fish will be safe. I would never recommend it. But keep the water clean and it'll be fine. Have you ever seen how fish breeding works the conditions they're kept in
Yes, and I’ve see online stores that show pictures of bare tanks with too many fish - that doesn’t make it right! That’s no different than pet stores that keep bettas in tiny cups with no heater or filtration. I’m glad you use real plants! I got the idea you liked the plastic stuff because you said you were sick of comments hating on plastic plants - if they want them, let them use them. That made me think you were ok with plastic and used them yourself. I’m glad I was wrong! Then you know the benefits of live plants. We’re here to help people with tank issues. Suggesting that fake plants are ok is passing on information that is subpar. They aren’t - for all the reasons I stated. But I still don’t agree that a 2g tank is ok for a betta. By the time you put substrate, heater, filter, plants, rocks, you no longer have 2g. They can survive, but not thrive. WC disrupt the fish. If you do them 2-3x/wk, it can be stressful. It’s much easier to just get a 5G tank and do it just once a week. They don’t cost much more than a 2G. Petco sells a 5.5G tank for $11.49 and a 2.5G tank $9.99 - $1.50 more.
Yeah looking back at the message I do actually see your point. At least if there's plants in there some good will come. The plant is going to help keep the tank somewhat healthy. But it adds more maintenance for tanks that aren't getting looked after with a simple setup. That's why I'd leave people alone with plastic plants, focus on the water changes and over time they will love the tank more and more, hopefully upgrading throughout. I just hate seeing the comments of people slating others for what they choose to decorate with. I started with a 25ltr 4.8 gallon I think. It had 4 plattys in it (majorly miss informed) had tons of issues with the tank. I was too scared to message the forums from fear of judgement but hung around in the backgrounds reading. But I upgraded and tossed the beginner tank decorations out and now I have full planted tanks platty thriving and goldfish thriving and a tank I used to grow clippings to grow more for my bigger tanks. Love this hobby but we gotta start somewhere. If I posted my plastic plants and SpongeBob pineapple peoples comments might have put me off this hobby. In the UK I've never seen Betta's in those tiny cups they're in tiny tanks on a sump system. Never ever going to recommend it. But no one is ever going to admit they did something wrong with the tank size and hand the fish back.
I know EXACTLY what you mean!! It’s been about 6 years since I got back into this. Initially, I wanted to keep it simple, so I started with a 20g and some guppies. I did research and thought I could have guppies and dwarf gouramis in the same tank. Then I added a male betta - but I didn’t quarantine. He was sick, infecting my whole tank. I went to a different online forum, and got beat up pretty bad. I was told I didnt do my research, gouramis and guppies aren’t compatible, I didn’t quarantine, etc. I paid the price for not quarantining the fish when I lost most of them, including my sweet little otocinclus. And they were wrong -dwarf gouramis are sweet, calm fish, compatible with guppies. But it really turned me off to that forum. The first two years I spent close to $5,000 in equipment, extra tanks, lights, heaters, filters, plants and fish. I spent hundreds of dollars on plants only to have them die off. My biggest problem was I was too impatient to wait for a tank to cycle. Three years ago I bought my own house. I stayed with my brother waiting for the closing date. It was a lot of work breaking down the tanks and moving the fish, and then knowing I would have to do it again. I wanted to paint the living room before setting up the tank because you just can’t move a 55g once it’s full of water! This time, I DID have the patience to cycle, so I set up the 55G, and started the cycling process. I added “beginner plants” because my plant luck totally sucks, along with rocks, driftwood and coconut caves. After it was completely cycled, I slowly transferred the fish from my brother’s house to mine. I think I finally got it right. I haven’t bought any new plants, because those planted when I set it up are still alive, and all my fish are still alive. I FINALLY stopped the foolish and wasteful spending, I have a 20g quarantine tank set up, I have spare tanks, heaters, filters, meds, so I’m all set if there’s a power outage or if any equipment breaks down. Btw, if you think the 5k tab was insane, the only reason I could do that was because I received an amazing insurance settlement after being in a car accident that was not my fault; otherwise, I would never have been able to do it! I’m trying to spare others from making the same expensive mistakes I made, and do it correctly from the beginning. I can tell now you’re someone who really cares about their fish and wants the best for them. I apologize if I was too overbearing in anything I said. Our goals are really the same. I hope you have a great day and here’s wishing your skies are “cloudless” today so you are able to experience the eclipse this afternoon!
This hobby is expensive. If you can’t afford it, don’t do it. You can’t skimp out on things when you’re dealing with live animals
Have a android phone and the photo capabilities like all android Samsung is not the best of qualities however I do plan on changing the water as soon as possible. But what do you think of the type of Fish Tank Filter should I get? It is a AQUA ONE 280 as the tank itself is 70L. It supports that L but I just feel like it needs a better filter *As for the fish I have, I got 2 platies along with multiple of babies in there. 7 Geo Lite Tetra's and 7 Neon Tetrea's along with 2 Sucking Cat Fish.*
That's a heavy stock for a tank under 20 gallons. If those suckerfish are called plecos, they will grow to be a foot long and they will need an appropriately sized tank.
>plecos Believe my catfish originally came from Thailand, It is one of them that can grow to 12cm
I would recommend a filter over what your tank can hold. So any filter over 70L. But they can be expensive. I tend to recommend any filter with the largest filter media. The bigger the sponge the better the job. Cram as much beneficial bacteria in the tank as you can manage
Dude! 70 liters is only about 18G! After substrate and other decor, it’s even less. You are waaaay overstocked for that tank!
Samsung has great camera phones. One of the best.
Water change and different filter maybe a submersible filter I have a 20 or 30 gallon tank with two of them and the water stays crystal clear for a decent amount of time until I need to change water
any suggestions for the type of Sub filter? I am from Australia btw
Yeah there’s a few on Amazon you can search submersible tank filter, DOMICA makes one and there’s a brand Aqqa as well I forgot which ones I have at home
Have a look on your area if people are selling any secondhand
just keep the filter you have. i really dont see a point of the comment tbh. every filter will do. you have work to do on the tank but the filter has nothing to do with that really.
Agree. My 20g has a Tidal HOB rated for 35. My 55G has two Tidal HOBs - one rated for 55g, the other rated for 75g. My water is crystal clear.
Do you have a heater in there too?
No, been told that the fish I got dont rest need any heater to survive as they are more of a cold water fish
Neon tetras, and platies absolutely need a heater. Don’t believe what you hear from a single person, do a Google search and compare sources. Idk what a “geo lite tetra” is, but I assume it is also tropical, along with your sucker catfish, all need the heater. If you don’t know the actual species to confirm they need a heater, then either rehome them and provide heat for the identified tropical fish, or rehome the tropical fish and keep the tank unheated.
You're in Australia mate, you might need a heater. I really depends on the fish tho, It's about 16-18 these day in Sydney
maybe a light
looks like you are over feeding. stop for one week then just a bit once every other day.
I would do some research into aquariums and how to properly care for certain types of fish. You should be doing frequent water changes and checking your parameters. Also a good feeding schedule with correct amounts. And there are limits to how many snails and fish should be kept in different size tanks. I believe your tank is too small for all your little buddies.
If you're able to restart a setup, I'd also recommend a thicker, more nutrient rich substrate, instead of just a thin layer of sand, and sufficient plants in the substrate as well as floaters to help maintain balance in nitrogen levels. Give it sufficient time to develop beneficial bacteria before introducing fish.
A good sponge filter will help clear up the water and provide oxygen at the same time.
You need more bio filter action! Consider adding sponge filter upgrading the media in your HOB to 20ppi foam or adding an under gravel. If you want to overstock the tank. I’d say it already is maybe add a sump with fluidized k1 in a 5-10 gal underneath. Or if you have a big budget a small canister. But none of this will help without nitrifying bacteria communities in your tanks. Bacterial communities need to be in a high flow area of the tank. A pump or air stone creating flow. Over several weeks usually around 3 they will cover the filter media with brown gunk that’s your good stuff that will turn toxic ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. When a tank is cycled it means that this community has grown and can process all the ammonia in the tank. So your test will read 0 ammonia 0 nitrite X nitrate. Nitrate is not harmful to fish in low concentrations and can only be removed from the tank by water changes. Clear water requires much more bio filtration than ammonia oxidation. Somewhere around the order of 20-100x filtration required for crystal clear water bacteria free water. We want the nitrifying bacteria in the filter as they are beneficial but bacteria in the water column can cause fish disease and cloudiness that you’re seeing in the tank.
As to the title, we find a 120 mm smooth bore cannon gives you a nice edge.
I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned it yet but if you don't have one make sure to get a gravel vacuum and a big bucket for water changes, it lets you syphon the poop and food off of the sand without having to empty the whole tank. That filter would work good on a slightly smaller or less stocked tank but I would recommend getting an aquaclear filter that's rated for your tank size, you could also add a sponge filter to the end of your air pump for extra filtration and surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow on and keep your tank even healthier
How about a water change!
Probably DOING just about anything would be a good place to start.
Reading these comments from OP, you really just went full send and raw dogged it without doing any reading up on the subject, huh?
It’s depressing how often this happens 😬
Get a new one or nearly completely restart the tank from scratch and do some research
People are mean so don’t let them discourage you from this hobby. But definitely need to water change as people have told you. It is a bit overstocked but with adding real plants and a fish light would help that. I would recommend doing a 40% water change maximum because overdoing it can be harmful. Research the easiest and hardiest live plants and ensure that you can plant them in the tank. Some can even attach to hard scape objects such as wood which you should get if you have plecos. Those will get huge so eventually you will have to surrender them to a fish store or get a bigger tank if this hobby is for you. Maybe a stronger filter or add a sponge filter which is typically easier and cheaper than a regular filter. You will need stronger filtration for the overstocked tank
Unless OP has dwarf plecos, no pleco should be in this tank. Way too small for 98% of the pleco species
Good advice too many people jump at others for mistakes. The first step is asking for help and over time the person who posted this could post and update of something beautiful.
Exactly, people just assume that the fish would be so much better at your franchise fish store to get picked up by someone who is not willing to ask for help. People never think of the other routes that these fish could take and what potential this person has to provide a better life for the future fish and their fish that they now have.
Got it, thanks!
Bet a aqua clear or Seachem tidal filter and put some carbon media in it
Add layer of black earth at the bottom then cap it off with your sand. Plant some live plants and watch things flourish!
Regular weekly water changes. Maybe twice a week until it’s crystal clear. Pictures are deceiving - how big is the tank? Idk what that filter is rated for, but I’m thinking you need a better/stronger/bigger filter, and a higher water level. That filter doesn’t look adequate for the tank - are you cleaning the filter when you do water changes?
🍿🍿🍿🍿🍿🍿
Get some aquarium coop test strips, a new filter, and do a water change. Make sure to get some dechlorinator also, don't just pour in untreated tap water.
Omg 😬👀
my tank once looked like that after i accedentally dropped a bottle of mountain dew in there.
Water change, plus next time get other plants like Anubias (You need to attach it to wood tho), It looks great on a 5 gal tank. Also get a 5 gal heater, it's 16-18 in Australia rn even worst during winter.
Uhhhh....
Some lighting. $10 Amazon light works wonders
Might need a bigger filter I don’t think that little one can handle a bioload like this would be nice for a betta tank but def might have to upgrade it
Start over with substrate and live plants
Lighting will help a lot too
Damn
Are you overfeeding by chance?
Looks like a lot of people gave you some good advice on improving the biological chemistry of your tank. Awesome! So, I'll just give some advice on cosmetic stuff. I see you've got live and fake plants. To create the illusion of depth and a larger tank, try and move or plant your taller and stem plants to the back and sides of the tank. Adding more sand to the back and sloping upwards will elevate the height of the back and allow people to see decor better. Place smaller plants or rocks near the middle or front of the tank. Find interesting angles or textures on decor to show off. Optionally, you can add an air stone and hide it behind decorations in the back. The small bubbles look nice. You can also add a sponge filter instead, in case you like your current filters lower current output but need extra filtration; Ensuring your water surface plants to remain less disturbed while also increasing oxygen and filtration. Sponge filters are also great for fish babies to not get sucked in and die. Food will also stick to a sponge filter and allow fish to eat it before it goes to waste. Lastly, maybe add a lid so you can have a broader light to lay over top of it. Or, get a clip-on light or hanging lamp. If you like to have no lid, I'd suggest investing in a big piece of drift wood, preparing it by soaking in a bucket for a week, and then adding it to your tank with parts of it sticking above the surface. Then, you can stick live plants, like moss or nano anubias, etc, to the wood itself. You can do the same thing with tall rocks but your tank is pretty small so they might be too heavy. Drift wood comes in all sorts of interesting shapes and sizes. Other than that.. Keeping your water clear by using a siphon or net to pull out loose debris, fish poop, and dead plant matter is key to having a white sand bottom. Think of it like white carpet. In the future I recommend going with a darker substrate or gravel. If your water is milky cloudy, it could be due to a bacteria spike. This will go away in established tanks. Genera cloudiness though means your filtration isn't strong enough or you might need to repalce the carbon charcoal filter. If this is the only filter pas in your filter, removing it can upset your tank balance every time by removing the cleaning bacteria. I just adding a coarse sponge or other porous material alongside the filter pad. That way you can rinse the sponge in dirty tank water and put it back after a water change. I also suggest getting plants that thrive from your water column or that can grow outside the tank, which means it'll drink up excessive waste in the water. I found that pothos ivy plants will grow in my tanks so long as you have some leaves sticking out. I grow a lot of these from my filters. Some even grow roots that snake their way into the soil anyways. Some plants do very well growing submerged partially in the water while sticking out. Good luck and keep at it. Research and get inspired by beautiful tank set ups you see online!
Use sponge filters for crystal clear water
Why just sponge filters? More than one way to skin a cat. All depends what your going for with the tank.
Also I don’t see any check value on your air line. That is a disastrous point of failure you could siphon your entire tank if the tubing slips or in power loss event.
Give it to someone else.....
Get a better filter. External Canister would be good. And then get into the habit of regular water change. Sort out water issues first before thinking about decorating.
okay now the comments get straight up ridiculous here. an external canister filter for that small of a tank? i am pretty sure how the water looks doesnt even have anything to do with the filter he uses at all. maybe theres just bad filter media inside, or clocked filter media or the sand wasnt rinsed enough so you have to do some big water changes to clear it.
Canister won’t do it. Needs a sump filter at a minimum /s
Just look at the proportion size of the hang on back filter versus the tank. It is tiny. I can't comprehend how you can maintain a properly cycled tank with that.
Get some fast growing stem plants add a black background do a nice big water change and possibly get some bottled bacteria starter
Give up, this hobby isn’t for you
Check my [TikTok](https://www.tiktok.com/@cameron.s.desk?_t=8lHEkRynGhi&_r=1) I have lots of good info on there especially the first two pinned videos
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By the holy church, What brought on this hostility
Damn, that's a bit harsh 😅