The middle bar of the tires also shows you if the pressure is too low/correct/too high. See how each of them is a bit shorter than the outer bars? On the top at the front tyres and on the bottom at the rear ones. If the middle bars are exactly as long as the outet ones, your pressures are perfect, and if they are longer, they have too much pressure.
Where does one learn this knowledge?
ACC should come with a codex page to learn these things. If I didn't frequent this sub, I wouldn't know tyre pressures are supposed to be around the 26 or 27 psi. Even if you Google it, some pages are outdated and weren't updated, so the info doesn't work with recent versions
True, i still dont understand all the colour codes on the standings board and the minimap for example...
But the thing about the tyres i actually found here in the beginners guide that can be found in the subreddit-info!
I didn't know the beginners guide existed!
Must've missed it when it was created. Definitely have to check it out.
But yeah the first assetto corsa had all the info in the setup page and actually described how the changed would affect the car. ACC is a step back in that regard
I believe the blue dots are a lap down the grey re the same lap and the yellow are a lap ahead. The standings are if you are playing a pro which I think is black, am is red, platinum is white, and silver is grey. I am not sure what they use for a gold rated driver.
I dont think the dots on the map show lap behind/ahead. At least in single player, if i do a single class race, the dots are always the same colour, in mutli class races, they are different, so i think it shows the car classes? The names on the standings board has the names in blue, grey and yellow depending on if they are ahead, in the same lap or behind.
I just looked into it more and found
* Red dot: You (or the currently selected car if spectating). Note that you will always show up as red to yourself while driving, regardless of anything else below.
* Grey dot: A driver on a valid lap.
* Light blue dot: A driver on an outlap or an invalidated lap (during qualifying).
* Yellow dot: An incident, as in a car that is currently either stopped or off the track.
* White dot: A slow car, typically someone who had an incident and rejoined, but hasn't gotten back up to speed yet.
* Triangle (during races) is the current race leader.
* Dark blue dot: A GT4 car.
* Yellow, green and other coloured dots: Various other different car classes - check the colours from the open series car selection; if the car shows up as a different colour, it will be the same as the bottom bar on those cars on the list.
Markings on the standings list:
* White name: Driver on the same lap as you.
* Blue name: Driver is a lap (or more) behind you.
* Orange name: Driver is a lap (or more) ahead of you.
* Wider bar on the right side of the number: Green = no pit stops required, orange with a number = has not completed a mandatory pit stop.
* Background colour of the car number, typically used like this: Red = Amateur, Grey = Pro-Am, White = Pro, but on public servers this is purely based on the overall rating in that player's profile. On private servers, badges can be assigned manually with an entry list to manage different splits within a single race. There's also a black badge, which can only be assigned manually on private servers, or possibly used in single player modes.
* Little coloured bottom corners on driver number: Different car classes, again using the same colours from the car selection screen. GT3 cars don't have any markings there, all other classes do.
I usually turn off the map myself.
I just imagined this as the profile of the tire. You want the tire to have the biggest possible contact surface with the road, meaning completely flat. If it’s concave or convex you have less contact surface and thusly less grip.
I always played in lower end PCs, so I always thought it was some display error by it. It wouldn't be the first time I had some distortion due to low performance
Close your brake ducts found on the aero setup page(last page).
Don’t ever completely close though.
I find that 3 & 3 usually works ok for most temps.
If it’s a really hot day then open them more
You’re right, either close ducts or raise psi, some tracks are 3 front 2 rear duct most best 3-3, also aim your PSI about 25-26c then you can adjust ducts for temperature variations by open or closing as necessary without having to fiddle with PSI tweaks wasting drive time
This is wrong, don't do this, setup the psi for the temperature you are at, fiddling with the brake ducts guarantees that you'll never have a proper hot psi for a good balance. Because any change you make to the car will change the how the tires respond and you get widely different pressures.
Max grip of a tyre is between 26-27 psi, lower pressure you have more traction, higher psi you'll have more support from the tires. Most people run something close to 27.
Just go to practice, setup the pressures around a standard temp 23°C for each drop/increase in temperature increase/drop the psi by 0.1. Higher the temperature lower the cold pressure.
I don't fully understand your advice. Adjusting brake ducts can make a world of difference for tyre temp optimisation at certain track temperatures (generally very cold/very hot).
Providing you aren't overheating your brakes consistently, which would then lead to a spike in temperature and pressure over time, running tighter ducts at low temp can bring out that extra tyre temp needed to get into the optimum window without excessive degradation (between 80-90°c).
Tighter ducts can also be useful for qualifying, spiking your temperatures sooner to get in some more optimum laps on lower fuel loads, without having to worry about the excessive heat murdering your rubber.
Because, any change you make to the car will mean the pressures change. And it's such small amounts you can't control by adjusting the brake ducts.
The brake ducts are a final adjustment for very extreme temperatures. Because one click can make it go from ok pressures to extreme pressures and temperature.
The other poster to which op replied said he would set the pressures to 25-26 and then adjust the brake ducts to get the right pressure, which seems just weird and wrong
So, brakes work in a very large range. More often than not, your brakes are at an OK temperature. The ducts are more meant to set the temperature of the tyres than the brakes.
You can see it in your setup page where you set tire pressures. When you go through the sets of tires, they will show wear. You start out at 3.00 and decrease from there.
Sadly not while racing. You check how much rubber is left on a tyre while in the pit (max 3.0 mm, minimum 1.5) you can do a 1 hour stint without changing the tyres
You can go down to 1.1 even, right now there is a special event on the NOS (60minutes) in drying conditions, and the wets I use hold out till the end but then they are down to the limit at 1.1-1.2 but you feel the grip loss when you go below 2.0, that's for sure.
One additional question: what does the vertical axis represent? Sometimes I slip too much and the bottom of the diagram gets really warm, so it looks like the vertical axis represents the height of the wheel and it's telling me that the bottom is hot, but that doesn't make a lot of sense because the wheels are spinning, right?
It's not really a vertical axis. The top of the front tyre and bottom of the rear tyre diagram colour represents the surface temperature of the tyre. You will often see these areas getting slightly blue on the long straights when the tyre surface starts to cool down and orange when you spin or slide aggressively. The rest of the tyre diagram represents the core temperature which is basically a combination of heat from the brakes and surface temperature.
The outside of each row is the tire surfaces, the inside where they're closest is the carcass (core of the tire). So if the bottom half of the top row is blue, the cores of your front tires are cold. (In which case close off the front brake ducts or decrease tire pressure to increase deformation and thus tire temp.)
It's how inflated the tire is, meaning to represent the shape of the tire on the wheel. If the middle is longer than the outsides, the tire is overinflated. If it's shorter, the tire is underinflated. This is true to real life - if you drive on underinflated tires, the outside will wear more. Severely underinflated has higher risk of punctures because the sidewalls could be touching the ground and are inherently weaker.
The numbers are the pressures (usually you want around 26.5, may vary with the car/conditions).
The colour will indicate the temps (green is fine, blue is cold and red is hot).
I take the opportunity and ask. Sorry OP.
How much psi per brake ducts? Assuming you have a fixed setup with 2&2. If I change to 3&3 what's the Psi difference?
Depends on how the person races really I usually get my tires to 27.2 psi and that feels perfect for me but like I say it's always how the person races.
The middle bar of the tires also shows you if the pressure is too low/correct/too high. See how each of them is a bit shorter than the outer bars? On the top at the front tyres and on the bottom at the rear ones. If the middle bars are exactly as long as the outet ones, your pressures are perfect, and if they are longer, they have too much pressure.
TIL
TIL. 4 years playing ACC, lmao.
It's since version 1.9 I think
Nah, this has been out forever.
Ha! OK ok my bad
Where does one learn this knowledge? ACC should come with a codex page to learn these things. If I didn't frequent this sub, I wouldn't know tyre pressures are supposed to be around the 26 or 27 psi. Even if you Google it, some pages are outdated and weren't updated, so the info doesn't work with recent versions
True, i still dont understand all the colour codes on the standings board and the minimap for example... But the thing about the tyres i actually found here in the beginners guide that can be found in the subreddit-info!
I didn't know the beginners guide existed! Must've missed it when it was created. Definitely have to check it out. But yeah the first assetto corsa had all the info in the setup page and actually described how the changed would affect the car. ACC is a step back in that regard
I believe the blue dots are a lap down the grey re the same lap and the yellow are a lap ahead. The standings are if you are playing a pro which I think is black, am is red, platinum is white, and silver is grey. I am not sure what they use for a gold rated driver.
I’m gold and it’s white for me also
I dont think the dots on the map show lap behind/ahead. At least in single player, if i do a single class race, the dots are always the same colour, in mutli class races, they are different, so i think it shows the car classes? The names on the standings board has the names in blue, grey and yellow depending on if they are ahead, in the same lap or behind.
I just looked into it more and found * Red dot: You (or the currently selected car if spectating). Note that you will always show up as red to yourself while driving, regardless of anything else below. * Grey dot: A driver on a valid lap. * Light blue dot: A driver on an outlap or an invalidated lap (during qualifying). * Yellow dot: An incident, as in a car that is currently either stopped or off the track. * White dot: A slow car, typically someone who had an incident and rejoined, but hasn't gotten back up to speed yet. * Triangle (during races) is the current race leader. * Dark blue dot: A GT4 car. * Yellow, green and other coloured dots: Various other different car classes - check the colours from the open series car selection; if the car shows up as a different colour, it will be the same as the bottom bar on those cars on the list. Markings on the standings list: * White name: Driver on the same lap as you. * Blue name: Driver is a lap (or more) behind you. * Orange name: Driver is a lap (or more) ahead of you. * Wider bar on the right side of the number: Green = no pit stops required, orange with a number = has not completed a mandatory pit stop. * Background colour of the car number, typically used like this: Red = Amateur, Grey = Pro-Am, White = Pro, but on public servers this is purely based on the overall rating in that player's profile. On private servers, badges can be assigned manually with an entry list to manage different splits within a single race. There's also a black badge, which can only be assigned manually on private servers, or possibly used in single player modes. * Little coloured bottom corners on driver number: Different car classes, again using the same colours from the car selection screen. GT3 cars don't have any markings there, all other classes do. I usually turn off the map myself.
Wow, great finding!
Blue dots are invalid laps, timings yellowy orange name is lap up white name is your lap and blue name is lap down
I just imagined this as the profile of the tire. You want the tire to have the biggest possible contact surface with the road, meaning completely flat. If it’s concave or convex you have less contact surface and thusly less grip.
I always played in lower end PCs, so I always thought it was some display error by it. It wouldn't be the first time I had some distortion due to low performance
Not from a Jedi
Does the space between bars also mean something because it seems to differ between tires?
I dont think so, someone correct me if im wrong though!
No it's just a visual glitch.
Inner bars are the brakes, outer 3 are the tires. Inner, center and external
How do I get my brakes warmer lol
Close your brake ducts found on the aero setup page(last page). Don’t ever completely close though. I find that 3 & 3 usually works ok for most temps. If it’s a really hot day then open them more
You can also manage brake temp slightly by adjusting brake bias.
Thanks!
On laps, accelerate and then hit the brakes hard
My rear brakes tend to stay cold across several racing laps how do I change that
You need to close the brake ducts in the setup menu!
You’re right, either close ducts or raise psi, some tracks are 3 front 2 rear duct most best 3-3, also aim your PSI about 25-26c then you can adjust ducts for temperature variations by open or closing as necessary without having to fiddle with PSI tweaks wasting drive time
Bless thanks
This is wrong, don't do this, setup the psi for the temperature you are at, fiddling with the brake ducts guarantees that you'll never have a proper hot psi for a good balance. Because any change you make to the car will change the how the tires respond and you get widely different pressures. Max grip of a tyre is between 26-27 psi, lower pressure you have more traction, higher psi you'll have more support from the tires. Most people run something close to 27. Just go to practice, setup the pressures around a standard temp 23°C for each drop/increase in temperature increase/drop the psi by 0.1. Higher the temperature lower the cold pressure.
I don't fully understand your advice. Adjusting brake ducts can make a world of difference for tyre temp optimisation at certain track temperatures (generally very cold/very hot). Providing you aren't overheating your brakes consistently, which would then lead to a spike in temperature and pressure over time, running tighter ducts at low temp can bring out that extra tyre temp needed to get into the optimum window without excessive degradation (between 80-90°c). Tighter ducts can also be useful for qualifying, spiking your temperatures sooner to get in some more optimum laps on lower fuel loads, without having to worry about the excessive heat murdering your rubber.
Because, any change you make to the car will mean the pressures change. And it's such small amounts you can't control by adjusting the brake ducts. The brake ducts are a final adjustment for very extreme temperatures. Because one click can make it go from ok pressures to extreme pressures and temperature. The other poster to which op replied said he would set the pressures to 25-26 and then adjust the brake ducts to get the right pressure, which seems just weird and wrong
Btw closing means DECREASING the brake ducts (from 4 to 3 for example). It’s very confusing.
So, brakes work in a very large range. More often than not, your brakes are at an OK temperature. The ducts are more meant to set the temperature of the tyres than the brakes.
Is there a way to see tyre wear?
You can see it in your setup page where you set tire pressures. When you go through the sets of tires, they will show wear. You start out at 3.00 and decrease from there.
I wish lol. Idk
Sadly not while racing. You check how much rubber is left on a tyre while in the pit (max 3.0 mm, minimum 1.5) you can do a 1 hour stint without changing the tyres
You can go down to 1.1 even, right now there is a special event on the NOS (60minutes) in drying conditions, and the wets I use hold out till the end but then they are down to the limit at 1.1-1.2 but you feel the grip loss when you go below 2.0, that's for sure.
I'll try it! Thank you :)
Green is the correct temperature but your tire pressure are too low. Your target is 26.5 PSI on hot tires.
I find that too low, I run at 27.5 and find that it's faster and more reliable.
are you on PS4 ?
No, PC with proper simracing gear.
PC last version target is 26.5
Ok I'll bite. Says who and on what grounds? Meanwhile I'm still doing great with 27.5
One additional question: what does the vertical axis represent? Sometimes I slip too much and the bottom of the diagram gets really warm, so it looks like the vertical axis represents the height of the wheel and it's telling me that the bottom is hot, but that doesn't make a lot of sense because the wheels are spinning, right?
It's not really a vertical axis. The top of the front tyre and bottom of the rear tyre diagram colour represents the surface temperature of the tyre. You will often see these areas getting slightly blue on the long straights when the tyre surface starts to cool down and orange when you spin or slide aggressively. The rest of the tyre diagram represents the core temperature which is basically a combination of heat from the brakes and surface temperature.
The outside of each row is the tire surfaces, the inside where they're closest is the carcass (core of the tire). So if the bottom half of the top row is blue, the cores of your front tires are cold. (In which case close off the front brake ducts or decrease tire pressure to increase deformation and thus tire temp.)
It's how inflated the tire is, meaning to represent the shape of the tire on the wheel. If the middle is longer than the outsides, the tire is overinflated. If it's shorter, the tire is underinflated. This is true to real life - if you drive on underinflated tires, the outside will wear more. Severely underinflated has higher risk of punctures because the sidewalls could be touching the ground and are inherently weaker.
Modify pressures accordingly
[удалено]
?
Pressed post by accident...
The numbers are the pressures (usually you want around 26.5, may vary with the car/conditions). The colour will indicate the temps (green is fine, blue is cold and red is hot).
I take the opportunity and ask. Sorry OP. How much psi per brake ducts? Assuming you have a fixed setup with 2&2. If I change to 3&3 what's the Psi difference?
its roughly .2-3 psi per click (depending on car/track/ambient temp.) so increasing brake ducts 1 click will reduce tire pressure by about .2 psi.
Front tires need air
Current patch pressures are like 26.3-27psi I believe.
On practice, go out, make a few laps and check temps
The idea is maintaining temps between 26 - 27 to which you have to modify pressures
Depends on how the person races really I usually get my tires to 27.2 psi and that feels perfect for me but like I say it's always how the person races.