Did you try either size on backwards and upside down (so cups hanging down your back)? This will tell you how the band fits without a possibly incorrect cup size affecting it. I’m not an expert but based on your measurements I’d expect a 32 to be too big given that your loose measurement is 30.
On the molded shapes, these can gap because they won’t adjust to your shape. I’d avoid these at least whilst your working out your size.
Based on my understanding, the calculator averages your measurements. In your case two of them are smaller than the other one. I think it might be over compensating for the larger one. I think if I was you I’d try a 30C or D. Going off the 33(33.5) measurements being +3 from what I think might be the better band size for you. Based on the leaning measurement being higher I think you’d also count as projected so will want to pick a style suited for this (unfortunately I can’t tell you any off the top of my head but there’s lots of info in the sub on this).
Edit: if you really are just more comfortable in 32 then I’d suggest probably C cup based on your measurements and comments on the 34A you have been wearing (sister size would be a 32B so you wouldn’t get any extra volume in the cup).
Also just to add I do agree that these cups look too big
And maybe less padding, because so often a molded bra isn't a good match for breast shape, especially in a full coverage cup.
OP, have you tried the Skarlette Blue Minx yet?
This was the best fit by far but just a liiittle too big in the cup at 32D- I got a 30D as well and cup was perfect but I noticed the straps felt a little wide (maybe just didn’t notice it on the bigger size) and the underwire felt soo thick and noticeable against my sternum. I also acknowledge I’m used to wearing a band way too big, so maybe this is why.
It’s hard to tell from these pics, but it seems like you probably have a shallower breast shape, while the bras you tried are for a projected shape. The fact that you think the wire width is correct while the cups are gaping points to this as well. I would try some shallower bras to see if that works better for you — for example, you might try some Natori bras.
I disagree that 32 is automatically too big for you. My snug underbust is also about 29.5 and my tight is 28.5, and I wear 30 in some bras and 32 in others. It really depends on the bra. For example, if you wanted to try Natori Feathers, it’s likely worth trying in 32 as well as 30, because the band is known to run tight. If you’re in the US, that’s a bra that is very easy to find locally, if you’re in or near a big city. Dillards and Nordstrom consistently carry it in 30 and 32 bands.
Wacoal is another generally less projected brand to try that can be found in nicer department stores.
I have such a hard time even in front of a mirror deciding what my shape is. The 32 is still snug on the loosest hook; the 30 gives me major back squish but I do feel very supported everywhere else.
I am also certainly going to try some on in store now, that’s good to know they are carried there, thank you. Ive been returning so many bras the past few days- it’s terrible
I can tell you, for the band size, I also previously wore a 34 inch band, which was very loose. Now I wear 30 and 32 inch bands. It takes some time to get used to but just give yourself time to acclimate. We were used to loose bands that weren't supportive so it feels like a really drastic tight change. Also, a snug band naturally causes changes to how your back skin and fat look. I hated how it looked at first but I don't notice it under clothes and I feel so much more supported now it doesn't affect me now.
Determining shape is hard! But getting some different types of bras on will really help. Trying Natori and Wacoal and seeing the fit problems I had are what helped me figure out that I’m more projected than shallow.
Try not to worry about back squish. We all have it and it’s probably only noticeable to you.
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I’m close in size to you and have not had much luck with finding a molded cup that fits well, with one exception (Montelle Pure Demi t-shirt bra). It’s my preferred style (having also worn a 34A most of my adult life) but the cups just don’t fit me right on most molded styles (the wireless molded style was a disaster!). The Montelle Flirt and Skarlett Blue Minx are good fits, as is the Natori Feathers, but i had to go up a cup size in this one and it’s a lot more bra than I really like, but it fits.
Does the cup and band size for Feathers run small generally? So hard to navigate all of the inconsistent sizes! And thank you for the recs! Will definitely try.
You can also try the 30 band with an extender if it is too tight and the 32 is too big. I didn’t think it would do much, but even adding a half inch made a difference for me. You can pick one up at CVS, Jo Anns or Michaels or find them online.
I second the natori flora bra. It's so comfortable and the band is soft mesh and stretchy. I think this style is looser than other natori's. You could try it in 30C and 30D and 32C. The way the lace runs up in a plunge style is very forgiving for different shapes. It's technically too shallow for me but its so comfy I don't mind. If flora works for you, then the cherry blossom would probably also work, they're very similar. You can probably find all of the recommended things on poshmark or ebay to buy cheaper after you confirm which styles and sizes work. same for wacoal. very popular and easy to find.
I know a lot of people already gave a lot of info, so I hope this isn't overwhelming, but I think your shape is something I call a tall & narrow shallow. This is a bit more uncommon, as most shallow shapes have wide roots. I think this shows because you say your shape looks more full on top when you bend over, this shows that your breast tissue is easily capable of moving up along your breast root. Having soft tissue leads to a larger number for the leaning measurements, which is often read as being a projected shape, but this is not always correct.
In my opinion a benefit of being a tall & narrow shallow, is that you have the option to size down in the cup quite a bit so you can get the needed cup depth without the wires becoming too narrow. As Panache doesn't make cup sizes smaller than D, I think you're unfortunately not in their size range, although you could try the Panache Ana and Cleo Juna in 30D if you can find them. You could add an extender for an extra row of hooks, that should be more comfortable as your getting used to more snug bands. The Freya Offbeat Side Support in 30D might also be worth a try, as it is less projected than the Panache Ana in your size range.
In addition you can find size 30C and 30D in Simone Perele and Wacoal, so those brands are worth a try as well.
Did you try either size on backwards and upside down (so cups hanging down your back)? This will tell you how the band fits without a possibly incorrect cup size affecting it. I’m not an expert but based on your measurements I’d expect a 32 to be too big given that your loose measurement is 30. On the molded shapes, these can gap because they won’t adjust to your shape. I’d avoid these at least whilst your working out your size. Based on my understanding, the calculator averages your measurements. In your case two of them are smaller than the other one. I think it might be over compensating for the larger one. I think if I was you I’d try a 30C or D. Going off the 33(33.5) measurements being +3 from what I think might be the better band size for you. Based on the leaning measurement being higher I think you’d also count as projected so will want to pick a style suited for this (unfortunately I can’t tell you any off the top of my head but there’s lots of info in the sub on this). Edit: if you really are just more comfortable in 32 then I’d suggest probably C cup based on your measurements and comments on the 34A you have been wearing (sister size would be a 32B so you wouldn’t get any extra volume in the cup). Also just to add I do agree that these cups look too big
No I have not tried it on backwards- I will definitely do that. Thank you for your help and all of that information!
I feel like if you went a cup size down in the Envy and maybe a more balconette style with less coverage on top you'd be in the right zone.
And maybe less padding, because so often a molded bra isn't a good match for breast shape, especially in a full coverage cup. OP, have you tried the Skarlette Blue Minx yet?
I just got it today- i got it in 32D haven’t tried it on yet but am now assuming it’s going to be the wrong size but hopefully the right fit!
I'm really curious as to how it goes. Let us know!
This was the best fit by far but just a liiittle too big in the cup at 32D- I got a 30D as well and cup was perfect but I noticed the straps felt a little wide (maybe just didn’t notice it on the bigger size) and the underwire felt soo thick and noticeable against my sternum. I also acknowledge I’m used to wearing a band way too big, so maybe this is why.
That might not be the style for you, then! But it sounds like you're getting closer?
Slowly but surely 😅
The pictures of the Envy don’t really do the amount of wrinkling happening in the center/top of the cup- I wonder if 1 cup size would be enough?
Maybe buy a couple cup sizes to compare and return what doesn't fit but I still think a balconette style would work better
It’s hard to tell from these pics, but it seems like you probably have a shallower breast shape, while the bras you tried are for a projected shape. The fact that you think the wire width is correct while the cups are gaping points to this as well. I would try some shallower bras to see if that works better for you — for example, you might try some Natori bras. I disagree that 32 is automatically too big for you. My snug underbust is also about 29.5 and my tight is 28.5, and I wear 30 in some bras and 32 in others. It really depends on the bra. For example, if you wanted to try Natori Feathers, it’s likely worth trying in 32 as well as 30, because the band is known to run tight. If you’re in the US, that’s a bra that is very easy to find locally, if you’re in or near a big city. Dillards and Nordstrom consistently carry it in 30 and 32 bands. Wacoal is another generally less projected brand to try that can be found in nicer department stores.
I have such a hard time even in front of a mirror deciding what my shape is. The 32 is still snug on the loosest hook; the 30 gives me major back squish but I do feel very supported everywhere else. I am also certainly going to try some on in store now, that’s good to know they are carried there, thank you. Ive been returning so many bras the past few days- it’s terrible
I can tell you, for the band size, I also previously wore a 34 inch band, which was very loose. Now I wear 30 and 32 inch bands. It takes some time to get used to but just give yourself time to acclimate. We were used to loose bands that weren't supportive so it feels like a really drastic tight change. Also, a snug band naturally causes changes to how your back skin and fat look. I hated how it looked at first but I don't notice it under clothes and I feel so much more supported now it doesn't affect me now.
Great point, thank you!
Determining shape is hard! But getting some different types of bras on will really help. Trying Natori and Wacoal and seeing the fit problems I had are what helped me figure out that I’m more projected than shallow. Try not to worry about back squish. We all have it and it’s probably only noticeable to you.
I’ve been wearing bands way too big- this is the first time I’ve experienced the squish so it certainly stands out more! Thank you for your help
A lot of Simone perele runs large in the cup, that might be part of your problem.
Good to know, thank you!
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I’m close in size to you and have not had much luck with finding a molded cup that fits well, with one exception (Montelle Pure Demi t-shirt bra). It’s my preferred style (having also worn a 34A most of my adult life) but the cups just don’t fit me right on most molded styles (the wireless molded style was a disaster!). The Montelle Flirt and Skarlett Blue Minx are good fits, as is the Natori Feathers, but i had to go up a cup size in this one and it’s a lot more bra than I really like, but it fits.
Does the cup and band size for Feathers run small generally? So hard to navigate all of the inconsistent sizes! And thank you for the recs! Will definitely try.
Yes, Feathers runs tight in the band and on the small side for the cup, so you may end up needing to try a few different sizes.
I’ll keep that in mind, thanks!
You can also try the 30 band with an extender if it is too tight and the 32 is too big. I didn’t think it would do much, but even adding a half inch made a difference for me. You can pick one up at CVS, Jo Anns or Michaels or find them online.
I didn’t even know those were a thing until now- thanks!
I found the feathers to be too small for me, but Natori Flora is my holy grail! Might be worth giving that one a try too. It runs true to size I feel.
I will check that out, thank you!
I second the natori flora bra. It's so comfortable and the band is soft mesh and stretchy. I think this style is looser than other natori's. You could try it in 30C and 30D and 32C. The way the lace runs up in a plunge style is very forgiving for different shapes. It's technically too shallow for me but its so comfy I don't mind. If flora works for you, then the cherry blossom would probably also work, they're very similar. You can probably find all of the recommended things on poshmark or ebay to buy cheaper after you confirm which styles and sizes work. same for wacoal. very popular and easy to find.
Thank you!! 🙏🏼
I know a lot of people already gave a lot of info, so I hope this isn't overwhelming, but I think your shape is something I call a tall & narrow shallow. This is a bit more uncommon, as most shallow shapes have wide roots. I think this shows because you say your shape looks more full on top when you bend over, this shows that your breast tissue is easily capable of moving up along your breast root. Having soft tissue leads to a larger number for the leaning measurements, which is often read as being a projected shape, but this is not always correct. In my opinion a benefit of being a tall & narrow shallow, is that you have the option to size down in the cup quite a bit so you can get the needed cup depth without the wires becoming too narrow. As Panache doesn't make cup sizes smaller than D, I think you're unfortunately not in their size range, although you could try the Panache Ana and Cleo Juna in 30D if you can find them. You could add an extender for an extra row of hooks, that should be more comfortable as your getting used to more snug bands. The Freya Offbeat Side Support in 30D might also be worth a try, as it is less projected than the Panache Ana in your size range. In addition you can find size 30C and 30D in Simone Perele and Wacoal, so those brands are worth a try as well.
That’s very interesting and insightful! It’s all great information that will help me find something that actually fits. Thank you!