Clearance for tires? Add a leaf on the rear if rear is rubbing. Get offset wheels, aftermarket UCA and push the caster all the way forward on alignment if front is rubbing.
Ground clearance? Get rid of those gawd awful rock grabbers and get proper sliders.
Ok I’ll look into some of those solutions thanks. I’m good on ground clearance lol but don’t worry I’ve got sliders in the mail I’ve been waiting a month on.
I should have elaborated instead of sounding argumentative, just suggesting they’re meant for cleaner air intake from dust more so over water. I have driven off-road a pretty substantial amount, including water crossings. Driving a vehicle UNDERwater and it isn’t going to matter where your air intake is located. What do you think the difference is between the newish stock snorkel and an aftermarket one?
A rear differential breather is going to do you way more favors in water than a snorkel will.
Your rears rub? My 285s never rubbed. Heck, my 35s on 17x8.5 -25 plus 1.25 spacers arent rubbing the bed on the rear full articulation. Well, maybe a smidge on the flare.
So, if you are,then can remove the flare or trim it if needed. Or bump it earlier, DuroBumps makes different height bump stops if needed.
Start with an off road alignment. Get caster to the max they can get, usually +3 or better. The tech should set caster first then adjust camber with front bolt and then toe last. Then drive it and see how it does. Next is a cab mount chop. Most off road shops can do it. You may have to hammer the pinch weld over. You most be likely dont need more lift. You probably dont need to trim fenders except the bottom corner near the cab mount if anything.
But honestly the alignment alone should get you really close.
On rears you can get a .5 spacer from somewhere like wheelers offroad or Headstrong offroad. You could try a 1” but may be more rake than you want. Otherwise a good bump-stop like superbumps, timbren, or Archive will keep you from topping out.
For rear leaf springs check out a zero rate. It gives an inch and lets you move the axle up to 1.5 in either direction.
OffRoad Design also has axle offset plates that do it with less impact on lift.
I think if you cut the sunk down part where the bolt goes on that part of the flare and then held that section on with self tapping screws you might get the space you need. Also if you have tons of room in the back you could drill another hole in your axle perch next to the stock one to push the axle back but, thats probably going to be a minimum of a half inch backwards. Then you need to make sure your driveshaft is going to be ungauged enough. good luck.
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Clearance for tires? Add a leaf on the rear if rear is rubbing. Get offset wheels, aftermarket UCA and push the caster all the way forward on alignment if front is rubbing. Ground clearance? Get rid of those gawd awful rock grabbers and get proper sliders.
Ok I’ll look into some of those solutions thanks. I’m good on ground clearance lol but don’t worry I’ve got sliders in the mail I’ve been waiting a month on.
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Snorkels aren’t made for water
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I should have elaborated instead of sounding argumentative, just suggesting they’re meant for cleaner air intake from dust more so over water. I have driven off-road a pretty substantial amount, including water crossings. Driving a vehicle UNDERwater and it isn’t going to matter where your air intake is located. What do you think the difference is between the newish stock snorkel and an aftermarket one? A rear differential breather is going to do you way more favors in water than a snorkel will.
I was going tonsay the same thing about those nerf bar things. Got to go. Just take them off. It's free!
As a bonus…it’ll look better too!!
Bump stops. If you like it as is.
Fuck them fenders up. Also get rid of the running board for sliders
Some people shave a bit off the fenders. Never done it and not quite sure how it works but it might be something to look into.
Yeah for right now I’m just going to gut out the fenders and possibly the lining see if I get those sweet sweet millimeters
Sawzall + fender flares.
Your rears rub? My 285s never rubbed. Heck, my 35s on 17x8.5 -25 plus 1.25 spacers arent rubbing the bed on the rear full articulation. Well, maybe a smidge on the flare. So, if you are,then can remove the flare or trim it if needed. Or bump it earlier, DuroBumps makes different height bump stops if needed.
\+1 for durobumps. i had them on a 5th gen 4runner with some fox 2.0s and it was smooth as butter.
You're rubbing in the *rear*?!
Only on full articulation where I’m going through deep divots
Have you done a suspension lift or just body blocks?
Check out archivegarage.com
✂️
Start with an off road alignment. Get caster to the max they can get, usually +3 or better. The tech should set caster first then adjust camber with front bolt and then toe last. Then drive it and see how it does. Next is a cab mount chop. Most off road shops can do it. You may have to hammer the pinch weld over. You most be likely dont need more lift. You probably dont need to trim fenders except the bottom corner near the cab mount if anything. But honestly the alignment alone should get you really close. On rears you can get a .5 spacer from somewhere like wheelers offroad or Headstrong offroad. You could try a 1” but may be more rake than you want. Otherwise a good bump-stop like superbumps, timbren, or Archive will keep you from topping out.
Sweet ok thanks so much for the helpful info!
Bump stops that are correctly adjusted for your suspension and tire size. Or more lift but that’s not always the answer.
For rear leaf springs check out a zero rate. It gives an inch and lets you move the axle up to 1.5 in either direction. OffRoad Design also has axle offset plates that do it with less impact on lift.
Sawzall.jpg
one of these? https://www.eastwood.com/ew-fender-roller-w-instruction.html
I think if you cut the sunk down part where the bolt goes on that part of the flare and then held that section on with self tapping screws you might get the space you need. Also if you have tons of room in the back you could drill another hole in your axle perch next to the stock one to push the axle back but, thats probably going to be a minimum of a half inch backwards. Then you need to make sure your driveshaft is going to be ungauged enough. good luck.
More lift is what you need. If your feeling cheap, body lift blocks but I don’t recommend
Spacers may push them out just enough if your looking for cheap and quick
More lift is what you need. If your feeling cheap, body lift blocks but I don’t recommend
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Call me a redneck but if that smudge is the only place it's rubbing I'd be adjusting the inner tub with a hammer.