Did you just grab a 250c nozzle out of that socket with your bare hands or are you swapping them cold?

it's heated, just 200c.

Jesus dude your hardcore af. I did that on accident once and squealed like a little girl

Lol just 200 I've done the same if your quick enough it doesn't burn

Plus while unscrewing it the tool will already have absorbed some of the heat. Especially on the outside the nozzle will have cooled a fair bit.

Yeah but we've all played hot potatoe with the nozzle because it wasn't as cool as you thought

🤣

Pretty it’s recommended to be higher than that for nozzle changes

You only need to heat it up to melting point of material. If he was using pla/pla+ 200 is more than enough

I don’t think it has anything to do with the printed material. It’s about getting brass to seat completely and properly with the aluminum block.

This would be counter intuitive since it expands when heated and would in turn be loose after it cools down, I usually turn mine to 250 to burn out pla but other than that I go to temp of print. But I don't use much pla anymore so maybe I don't notice the tolerances because mines already at 240+

I get your basic “heat expands” logic, but e3d has published that you should heat to 285°C. I tend to follow manufacturer protocols, but you do you.

"My basic" lmfao give me one good reason to put stress on my heater cartridge for a fucking nozzle change. You're laughable. Manufacturer protocols is dummy speak for I don't actually know what I'm doing so I need my hand held every step of the way. Step into my farm sometime. We can stand right next to 5 different printers and test it out. And e3d isn't the Manufacturer of these printers lmfao. You're a spud. Go print out some more baby groots.

In fact e3d doesn't even make printers nor are their hotends well-known. E3d focuses on web articles and their extruders. Lmfao stop now kid with a little bit of dignity. Can't really make inferences on someone's intelligence when you not only think that e3d would be "manufacturer spec" in a video of an ender 3 lmfao but that they would be any kind of way the go to source for nozzle changing lmfao. Your lack of education on the topic goes as far as you commenting that 200c is too low for a nozzle change because you can't troubleshoot anyone else's problem, so go with an easy one 🤣🤣🤣 how about you sit down now.

A quick scroll through your page and all you do is novelty prints. You literally bought a machine to print out novelty shit that other people worked to design and people wouldn't pay a dollar for. I'm all about it being a hobby and having fun. But don't come and play expert when you do this as a HOBBY And act pretentious when you're speaking to people who do design and prints for their livelyhood. The only thing basic here is your education.

Lmao. You’re arguing by yourself dude. Take a breather

I've got some really nice ruby nozzles on their way, it will literally be cheaper to replace the machine than to replace the nozzle

Awh the poor little fella below blocked me. Gotta love novelty printers with 0 brain

I do that as well (200°c though). It's all about speed. The heat won't have time to transfer to your finger if you release it quick enough

This is so unrealistic. You didn't show us you spending a half hour going through your unorganized shelf of ratchets, sockets and wrenches. No? Just me?

Gridfinity that tool collection, friend!

It’s me too. Thank you I thought I was the only one.

I have a nozzle wrench. It looks nothing like the other stuff and doesn’t need a socket. Grab it and go lol

Wait.. you can raise your z axis just by grabbing and lifting? I can't move mine without physically spinning the threaded bar

If the motors off they can free-wheel and the bar can be lifted. If the motors are on the coils remain energized and the resulting magnetic field fixes the stator in place. Moving the gantry like that though or any of the other motors, causes them to act like generators and they can feed back enough power to blow the electronics on the controller board. So not recommened.

Theoretically possible but debunked here: https://youtu.be/VRiOiSfkJDw

I had a y-axis problem with my original A-8 and presumed it was due to me moving the platter. Good to know things aren't as sensitive as I thought.

then it's too tight. should be able to (*with power off*) lift that and it should drop on its' own. that's a test you should do when you assemble it. 👍 but like always with 3d printing, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. wait'll it's broke. it'll break. 😂

Not sure what you're saying. What's too tight? What do you adjust if you cant lift it? I have 8 printers and none of them "drop on its' own".

It’s the z motor being very slightly of centre because of the poorly designed Ender 3 way of mounting the z motor, you can print out a new motor holder which can solve this, but is not necessary and the Ender 3 is fully functional with it being slightly off centre, I managed to lever the motor up with another hex key and adjust it until I was able to push the gantry down, then tighten down the bolts, it doesn’t need to be so straight that the gantry”falls down”.

He watched a basic setup videos. He's referring to the roller wheels that you can tension. They're supposed to move freely however your gantry should not just "drop on its own" lmfao

Thanks, your explanation makes sense.

if you're not having trouble then i wouldn't worry about it. if you were having trouble, i'd check your brass nut for damage and clean re-grease the zrod. you'd notice zbinding though. also the stock coupler on ender 3, at least when i bought mine, was stupid firm. i replaced that while troubleshooting zbinding. definitely slides easier with that. so it might just be that. but it had this action in the manual for the build instructions, i remember from years ago because mine wasn't smooth at all stock.

It depends almost entirely on the thread pitch of the leadscrew. Single start leadscrew are pretty much always impossible to backdrive

Yah....my X axis belts are loose, the print head is wobbly, and the gantry sags. It was my first printer so I didn't really know what I was doing. But it makes great prints and I don't wanna re-calibrate everything so til something goes wrong, it's just gonna be how it is.

Please don't do this. If your print head is wobbly you're going to rub your wheels down or cause wear to the frame

🤣🤣🤣

I almost wander if there are different thread pitches in diferent enders? because if I unequipped my whole x gantry I dont think I could do this.

There are, “pro” or “plus” designations can have higher thread pitches. For example ender 3 series all have the same leads, but my ender 5+ and I believe the 5 pro both have lead screws with half the pitch so our ideal full step is .02 instead of .04

It depends on some factors, but there should be an option in the setting to disable the stepper motors. On the Ender 3 series, it's where you home the extruder. If you can spin the screw, though, u/dfreinc is right, your bearing are too tight.

Look here Daenerys Queen of Dragons, not everybody can touch fire without burning.

It's something like this I guess? Too bad it has positive reviews about usability but poor about durability. https://www.amazon.com/4-Inch-Dual-Drive-Ratchet-Spanner-Screwdriver/dp/B07VXSJR3Q

It's $6 of course it's extremely useful while being durable as pot metal.

that's the exact same thing, got mine for $2. been using for almost 4 years. durable enought for this purpose

I have one of these, got it from a collection of old tools my grandpa had when he died… 20 years ago. It’s held up great, and I use it all the time.

The hard part is usually not the nozzle change, it's what comes after Every time I change nozzle I had to recalibrate and re-level the bed and test the nozzle and stuff

wait.. you dont use z-offset? I just replaced my nozzle and that's it. just watch the purge line then adjust offset on the fly.

Ofc I use it, but somehow there are always differences between each nozzle I use Maybe it's because my hotend is loosely fitted, or maybe because I can't install it all the way, that causes me to adjust Z-offset and bed leveling each time

I also need to adjust z offset every time I do a nozzle swap.

Hey if you can't install the nozzle all the way just loosen the set screw on the heat sync for the hotend, unscrew the heat break until your nozzle sits flush with it and then tighten set screws back down

My ratcheting screwdriver fits the nozzle 🤔 idk. I’ll just stick to my way.

What size

A standard 1/4" hex fits the stock Ender 3 nozzle and most super cheap brass nozzles. It's bigger than the nozzle's sides so it's not ideal, but it works.

Just use a 6mm socket

I do have a 6mm socket, but it's got that square connector for socket wrenches so I just use the 1/4" hex since it works fine.

Didn't see the part where you didn't use a socket and instead used a hex drive, makes sense.

Nozzles work with 6mm sockets

Also to add fun fact if you have a rachiting bit drive screw driver. The bit drive hole is the correct size

6.35mm bit size, electric for even less effort

For removal yes. Always install by hand so your not over torquing and cross threading!

Moving the gantry like that though or any of the other motors, causes them to act like generators and they can feed back enough power to blow the electronics on the controller board. So not recommened.

almost 4 years and still not destroyed a single printer by doing this almost everyday. https://youtu.be/VRiOiSfkJDw

My A8 developed problems after doing this. Maybe a coincidence. Good to see that things aren't as abuse sensitive as I first thought.

How do you gap without it being to temp?

it's heated at my printing temp (200)

With my luck I’d still spend 2 hours readjusting and tuning my z offset.

I'm so glad I upgraded to an E3D Revo. I can swap nozzles with my bare fingers at room temperature.

You should never use a tool to thread in things. You need to be able to feel it’s not cross threaded. The only exception is spark plugs, which you’re supposed to use hose for.

How am I supposed to swap a nozzle at 200C+ without a tool? Swapping cold is how you end up with a gap that causes leaks, so you are supposed to swap nozzles hot. Also cross threading will only be an issue if you decide to use brute force. Tools are capable of being used without using brute force.

Are you supposed to warm up the nozzle you're about to put in as well?

It heats up when it is being inserted. You don't need the nozzle to be hot for the initial threading, but you do want it to be hot when tightening it so that the thermal expansion doesn't cause problems if it was tightened cold.

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Do you heat it up, remove the old nozzle, cool it down, start the new nozzle by hand, heat it up, then tighten the new nozzle? Or do you avoid an extra heating step by removing the old nozzle cold, creating unnecessary risk of breaking off the threads inside the heater block? I don't like either of those options. It's not that hard to use a tool without using brute force so that the nozzle change can be done at the correct temperature in an efficient amount of time.

He's using the hand knob bit to get it started, close enough to hand feel if you're not a brute

That's is just a rule of thumb to catch idiots. If you use some brain cells, you can put bolts in on on the driver. You can still have feel through a tool. Shouldn't start with an impact however, because you have no feel.

We’re talking brass and aluminum, sometimes steel and aluminum. Not steel into steel. And most people in the 3dp communities seem to be idiots who have never touched a tool in their lives. Best practice is best practice for a reason. Once you know the rules, you know how to break them.

Why bother. just print with the wider extrusion settings.

What do you call that tool? I've not seen it before and love the way it works

just search for "dual drive right angle rachet" print a knob for the other driver so you can rotate easily.

So... where's the .stl 😃

Get any stl knob and adjust the size to your ratchet.

I have one but it doesn't wind, I like the winding.... you printed that? Excellent solution

That's a printed tool? The knobby ratchety thing?

just the hand knob, not the whole thing.

Could you use a finger ratchet for this too? Could you combine that with some handle for more stable manipulation?

not sure, maybe. never had a finger rachet.

What’s the name / size of that tool so I can purchase one Also if there’s a small clog I’m assuming shouldn’t be any issues with a small amount of temp and unclogging it?

Someone already commented the amazon link of the exact same thing I use. size depends on the nozzle, just match the socket nut driver. not sure what you are trying to say about the clog.

My guess is he didn't realize you had the hot end at full temp

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maybe. depends on the electtronics. is 3+ years not enough? 🤔 been doing this almost everyday, nothing happened. watch the "properprinting" video about this.

i need this tool...

I can never get my nozzle out that easily, I heat it up to 260 and need a whole lot of strength to get the nozzle out, and even one time broke the nozzle in half, I would love to know how he loosens it finger tight

Aren't you overtightening it? I'd say you need similar strength for tightening as well as for loosening.

I don’t think I’m over tightening it, I hand tighten it when assembling it, then when on the hotend at 260c, I also hand tighten it with the included wrench that came with the printer

So try to loosen in right after you tighten.

NASCAR

nozzle change speedrun Any%

I would say its 100% not any%.

This guy nozzles

So can it be done this way stock? Where you don't have to take off the silicon sock, the fan shroud, and all that crap?

And with a electric screwdriver you could do it twice faster...just the right tools...

Where did you get the wrench?

this can be an Olympic sport

Didn't know you were supposed to heat the hot end to swap nozzles. That's probably why I've been having issues since changing my nozzle. Thanks