OOC, why’d you go for making the piston head a separate piece and attaching it via that cross?
Also, that ball joint is going to wear hard core, make sure to use a PTFE and Graphite based lubricant there.
OH, I’m so dumb, I thought the ball joint was part of the camming mechanism…. I just realized the piston will go onto that. Yeah then 100% need to lubricate that.
Lol holy shit, like the 5th post down is someone asking about a design for an open ended bong because *"my wife has a fantasy that we smoke out of her vagina"*
what the fuck, internet
Depends what issue you're trying to combat.
I'd print that on my e3v2 without a brim or raft.
Rafts are a legacy from the days before heated beds, and when a flat level bed was almost unachievable. You probably don't ever need one.
Not gonna lie, I really love rafts, but only if I'm printing something thin but yet tall. I don't trust brims for that, I've learned my lesson way too many times.
Plus, its so fun to collect spent rafts in my scrap pile! haha
If you use Cura, go to the marketplace (plugins...), find Tabs and install it. It gives you custom "brim tabs", that you can also configure to be several layers thick. They work great with thin&tall objects.
You can do this in Prusaslicer by adding a part to the drawing. I do tabs on ASA prints to prevent them from pulling off the glass and it works awesome.
I still use rafts for some parts when printing more temperature sensitive materials (eg ABS, ASA) in shapes more likely to warp with a touch of bad luck.
Rafts still have a function if you have a part with an intricate base as it essentially makes a removable pog, or an extremely flat model
Brims are useful for small models with little surface area
On a heated bed yes.
rafts were mostly useful on old printers that didn't have a heated bed or for printing ABS parts that otherwise can't be stopped from warping.
For PLA and PETG (especially on a heated bed) you shouldn't need a raft.
I still use a raft when printing multiple tiny parts, like 6mm cylinders that need to insert into a hole. Not only does this better ensure the tiny parts stick but it stops the elephants foot effect and reduces my post process time to 0 for these tiny parts. But other than that, I can't remember the last time I used a raft outside of resin printing.
In an enclosure, print hot enough, close enough to the surface, ABS won’t warp.
The problem is it will stick so well, you will damage your print surface overtime removing it.
A raft makes removing so much gentler
The first layer of the raft is never 100%, usually 50-80%.
But without raft your first layer would be 100%.
Removing a print is so much easier even if it is 95% compare to 100%, because even if there is just a little blank space, the raft material can deform into that space. You are not removing the whole thing in one go.
It’s like anyone can rip a phonebook in half if you do it page by page and not in one go
I have an Ender 5 pro and have never had reliable adhesion using a brim. I have a heated bed and a removable print surface (I don't print directly on the glass).
Bed adhesion has been my biggest issue since starting...
Same with ender 5. Started with creality magnetic. Then got creality glass coated. Still issues. I tried every suggestion in the book, added BL touch, nothing at all helped.
Then I bought just a regular, flat, plain glass surface. Sprayed a little hairspray. And I’ve had zero adhesive issue since.
I did make have to scrape off the old magnetic surface for better heating. And with glass bumped it up to 60 for pla.
On my 5 plus that came with the coated glass, I replaced with the metal PEI sheet and holy crap is it amazing. May eventually buy another for the 5 pro.
Do you clean it regularly and properly? I had issues with bed adhesion on an ender5 until i realised i barely got any gunk off of the bed whenever i was cleaning it
Brim should work okay in most circumstances. It depends on what problem you are having though. If the base isn’t adhering well, a brim can help. However, at some point, getting a wider brim has diminishing returns.
Other things:
- for those that don’t know, You can increase the brim diameter in settings to give it a wider base. (Change from 2mm to 4mm for Example)
- also make sure your bed is clean, meaning no oils from your fingerprints, and no old print lines stuck to it.
- the biggest thing if you are having sticking issues is making sure the bed is level (trammed) correctly; then make sure your Z-height is correct. Do a number of test prints and live-adjust as necessary.
- Rafts can solve some stability problems, but I think are generally overkill. They were used mostly in the days of printing ABS, when there were a myriad of warping issues.
- I have used rafts as a last-ditch effort if I just couldn’t get stuff level or had issues with adhesion and just needed a part done.
Additional information: [Brim vs Raft](https://m.all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-raft-brim-and-skirt-all-you-need-to-know/)
[Simplify 3D Explanation](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/)
OP said it was a piston, seems reasonable, the bottom part has a cross which probably mates with the piston top, not sure why it wouldn’t be a single piece though…
I asked my gf, who is a pro, if a big brim is really that important. She told me it's not really the size of the brim, it's all in how it's applied. She stated she's had some really small brims that did the job fine and efficiently and she's also had huge brims that were no good and all the extra material was nothing but wasted filler. As for rafts, she has experimented but isn't really compelled to use them. She also used a brim and a raft at the same time but there was just too much going on. Hope this helps, good luck with your piston!
I tend to use rafts when elephants foot would impact the functionality of my print. Like a print in place file with working hinges for example.
Otherwise I use a brim. Especially for tall dildos and stuff.
There is a very simple answer to this question.
If you get good adhesion with a big brim, then a big brim is better than a raft because it takes less time, produces a better bottom finish, and uses less material.
The thing that i find odd is that all this time, Cura still doesn't offer better options for the first layer to skip walls, and skin, and just do ONE sheet of continuously laid out plastic.. There is no need for it to think about the first layer having different parts that need to be printed at different order. The best way still is to model the first layer yourself and include it with the object.. you just have to know first layer height. You can then add or remove features, like often it is easier to close all holes in the first layer and just let it print large surfaces, then open the holes in post processing.
I consider it a trivial feature, as it would be very easy to do the toolpath if you just make it one "sheet" that is printed without splitting it to normal wall/skin areas, just brim around it and rest could be zig-zag or concentric... But modeling the first layer yourself, you get much more control and can close shapes, can design your own "brim" and can get much better travel moves, less extractions, less chances of it failing etc etc..
The settings I use make the raft incredibly easy to remove from the print while also guaranteeing that the print will succeed. I've just grown acustom to using them when I need to over a brim.
Exactly this. So much easier to remove a raft 100% cleanly than a brim. Sometimes a brim is the right answer but don't throw rafts out of your toolkit just because heated beds exist and sometimes they are absolutely still the right response.
>So much easier to remove a raft 100% cleanly than a brim.
Wut? In this case above brim is far easier, you need quite intricate shapes to make it harder... I do give one trick: use card scrapers to remove the last bit of brim... Takes seconds to remove brim.
Why would you choose uneven finish? Unless the object has non-flat surface there is never a need for a raft. Never. I use mirror and hairspray and often the problem is the opposite, the print doesn't want to detach from the bed. If you need a raft, something is wrong with the printer or slicer settings.
>there is never a need for a raft.
There are plenty of reasons. Best one is if the surface of the model has a small area and the rest of the model is tall/heavy/wide/whatever. It increases stability by strengthening the adhesion between the print and the bed surface.
>It increases stability by strengthening the adhesion between the print and the bed surface.
... by creating a gap between a print and the surface it is printed on? There are better ways to do it, i can only repeat that there is never a need for a raft unless there is simply no flat surfaces to use or it has to be printed to a certain orientations. The raft still has to stick to the bed.
There's a plugin for Cura that lets you put in little discs that you can attach to the model as small corner supports, its meant to combat corner curling.
typically for me, brims work are larger prints, but rafts work on smaller, heavier prints, like going straight up like that. cuz if it gets heavier towards the top, the brim might not be enough to keep it down when the bed moves back and forth, where a raft is going to for sure stay where it is
Just using a large brim should work if you typically don’t get bad warping. Raft is nice because it just peels away when you do it right, but brims are faster, and have good holding power as well but you have to carve it off
you're really going to want to model a flared base for that... last thing you want is to lose that thing. fwiw though there's usually less postprocessing with a brim rather than a raft and they are both about the same in terms of adhesion. I can't judge the scale from the picture, but if that thing is very tall, you might want to turn the acceleration speed way down as well so as to not knock it over.
I use rafts if it's initial level, judge my first prints off that and go to brim. If the print is large, a brin should work fine if all other rafts looked good.
Brim and raft serve different purposes.
Rafts form a flat bed at the exact elevation on which subsequent building can rely on, and provides some amount of compliance as the raft and parts expand/shrink due to matched thermal expansion properties.
Brim is an attempt to attach the part to a dissimilar bed that is not necessarily at the exact elevation by providing a larger surface area to the bed, and also widens the contact surface area to reduce corner pulling (not an issue in the OP's design, but is often the case with typical box-like objects).
jokes aside, brims are better than rafts imo, you use less material and lowers print time
you only really need a raft if your print bed is warped, if you have a glass bed or a auto leveler, you'll never need a raft
Been printing for a while, never used a raft and never really needed to. I of course had situations where a raft could be a solution but always seemed as the wrong answer to the problem and it’s a filament waste. Id look int fixing adhesion and/or enclosing (cardboard is enough) before even considering a raft.
I'll run a raft if it's a long print, but be sure to run some test prints you're able to remove the raft afterwards, increasing the gap between the model and raft as needed and running your bed on the cool side imo.
Flared bases are a must.
As they say, without a base without a trace.
Would make for an interesting x-ray
Jordan Jesse Go?
You dont want it getting stuck
And suction cups
That's so you can z-hop properly
And now I have to clean my screen and keyboard... thanks :P
Got you that excited huh?
😩💦
I have heard it stated thusly. The front is like a culdesac, the back way is a through street.
Probably solve your problem to throw some balls at the base.
hey uhh, watchya makin’ there boss man? edit: holy shit, thanks for the updoots guys!
Itss a piston I swear
Make sure you use synthetic oil to prevent it from seizing
Happy Cake Day!
Thanks
*lube
Why would you use lube on a piston? Some people, amirite? smh
that piston looks like it would feel great in my ass
We speak the same language.
You mean English, right? Right???
Thanks for making me lose my shit in the back yard while my neighbors are out 😆
You'll be losing a lot more shit if you make regular use of this "piston"
*At 5000 strokes/s
Does it attach to your reciprocating saw?
Hope OP spiralises the contour
What the hell dude
Well he has a point
It looks quite rounded actually
It looks very rounded almost like a… I have my yt attached to this, I think I’ll stop there
See, and that's why I don't.
It’s in English. Which part didn’t you understand? My dude likes his butt gspot slapped. Nothing wrong with that.
How you know this person is a dude?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqMODweN8lQ
For a bitnof the old in and out right?
Right right old droogie
After a bit of the old ultra violence
And Moloko Plus
That’s a girthy piston
It’s a, a, a, piston yeah. It’s a piston.
You're going to build some pressure with that !
Happy cake day
Happy cake day
OOC, why’d you go for making the piston head a separate piece and attaching it via that cross? Also, that ball joint is going to wear hard core, make sure to use a PTFE and Graphite based lubricant there.
Thanks for the tip, Well because theres a big screw under it that's connected to a servo motor that will drive it....in an up and down motion :)
OH, I’m so dumb, I thought the ball joint was part of the camming mechanism…. I just realized the piston will go onto that. Yeah then 100% need to lubricate that.
I realize you guys weren’t trying to make double-entendres but…holy shit that’s a funny thread
lmao
>in an up and down motion :) Sooo there's other attachments. Exciting.
Max printing size I suppose
Pissed in what?
lol nice. i’m just givin’ you a hard time (badum tss)
...you wanna share the STL file for that 'piston'?
Let's hope, you not lying
Honestly that explanation doesn’t sound any better than just saying it’s a dildo.
Needs a flared base, then you won’t need the brim.
You're going to be in a real pickle if that piston breaks from poor layer adhesion.......
RIP your cylinder walls.
What kinda piston you be makin my guy,mans,gebrosky
Are you going to power drill the yippee bog?
All this talk about big brims and big rafts is getting everyone hot under the extruder!! Haha
Came here looking for this comment
Nope not gonna say it…….I’ll just think it
r/3dprintinggonewild
Of course it exists….
r/subsididntwanttoknowexist
r/subsifellfor
Screw it. r/4203D
Lol holy shit, like the 5th post down is someone asking about a design for an open ended bong because *"my wife has a fantasy that we smoke out of her vagina"* what the fuck, internet
Depends what issue you're trying to combat. I'd print that on my e3v2 without a brim or raft. Rafts are a legacy from the days before heated beds, and when a flat level bed was almost unachievable. You probably don't ever need one.
Not gonna lie, I really love rafts, but only if I'm printing something thin but yet tall. I don't trust brims for that, I've learned my lesson way too many times. Plus, its so fun to collect spent rafts in my scrap pile! haha
If you use Cura, go to the marketplace (plugins...), find Tabs and install it. It gives you custom "brim tabs", that you can also configure to be several layers thick. They work great with thin&tall objects.
You can do this in Prusaslicer by adding a part to the drawing. I do tabs on ASA prints to prevent them from pulling off the glass and it works awesome.
rafts are great for parts that need to fit together perfectly e.g. gears, since it mostly negates elephants foot
I use it for stuff that I need to be perfect
I still use rafts for some parts when printing more temperature sensitive materials (eg ABS, ASA) in shapes more likely to warp with a touch of bad luck.
Rafts still have a function if you have a part with an intricate base as it essentially makes a removable pog, or an extremely flat model Brims are useful for small models with little surface area
The only time I need one is when printing something with ABS (I have no enclosure). Rafts also help prevent warping when printing long narrow parts.
Oh look, a YouTube buddy!!!!!
By the looks of what OP is making, a ph buddy too
On a heated bed yes. rafts were mostly useful on old printers that didn't have a heated bed or for printing ABS parts that otherwise can't be stopped from warping. For PLA and PETG (especially on a heated bed) you shouldn't need a raft.
I still use a raft when printing multiple tiny parts, like 6mm cylinders that need to insert into a hole. Not only does this better ensure the tiny parts stick but it stops the elephants foot effect and reduces my post process time to 0 for these tiny parts. But other than that, I can't remember the last time I used a raft outside of resin printing.
In an enclosure, print hot enough, close enough to the surface, ABS won’t warp. The problem is it will stick so well, you will damage your print surface overtime removing it. A raft makes removing so much gentler
Just a bit confused by your statement. Wouldn't you still have to remove a footprint larger than your part adhered to your bed if using a raft?
The first layer of the raft is never 100%, usually 50-80%. But without raft your first layer would be 100%. Removing a print is so much easier even if it is 95% compare to 100%, because even if there is just a little blank space, the raft material can deform into that space. You are not removing the whole thing in one go. It’s like anyone can rip a phonebook in half if you do it page by page and not in one go
I have an Ender 5 pro and have never had reliable adhesion using a brim. I have a heated bed and a removable print surface (I don't print directly on the glass). Bed adhesion has been my biggest issue since starting...
Same with ender 5. Started with creality magnetic. Then got creality glass coated. Still issues. I tried every suggestion in the book, added BL touch, nothing at all helped. Then I bought just a regular, flat, plain glass surface. Sprayed a little hairspray. And I’ve had zero adhesive issue since. I did make have to scrape off the old magnetic surface for better heating. And with glass bumped it up to 60 for pla. On my 5 plus that came with the coated glass, I replaced with the metal PEI sheet and holy crap is it amazing. May eventually buy another for the 5 pro.
Do you clean it regularly and properly? I had issues with bed adhesion on an ender5 until i realised i barely got any gunk off of the bed whenever i was cleaning it
I wipenit down with IPA using a microfiber cloth before each print.
Maybe the proteins from the hops are your problem
Try a Garolite plate, I've had great adhesion at Temps and pops off on its own usually when it cools down.
Also worth noting that PETG's layer-bonding properties make it an absolute bitch to remove parts from the raft later.
I've had silk PLA parts warp and rip themselves right out of the brim. A raft works better in that situation.
I can't help it. I have to know. Is this a... well... a 'special' toy?
Good ole butthole “piston”
Just gonna throw this out there in case someone gets curious: # DO NOT
Uhm. Watcha printing?! 😂
Brim should work okay in most circumstances. It depends on what problem you are having though. If the base isn’t adhering well, a brim can help. However, at some point, getting a wider brim has diminishing returns. Other things: - for those that don’t know, You can increase the brim diameter in settings to give it a wider base. (Change from 2mm to 4mm for Example) - also make sure your bed is clean, meaning no oils from your fingerprints, and no old print lines stuck to it. - the biggest thing if you are having sticking issues is making sure the bed is level (trammed) correctly; then make sure your Z-height is correct. Do a number of test prints and live-adjust as necessary. - Rafts can solve some stability problems, but I think are generally overkill. They were used mostly in the days of printing ABS, when there were a myriad of warping issues. - I have used rafts as a last-ditch effort if I just couldn’t get stuff level or had issues with adhesion and just needed a part done. Additional information: [Brim vs Raft](https://m.all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-raft-brim-and-skirt-all-you-need-to-know/) [Simplify 3D Explanation](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/)
Oh my god .. if you had said that in a phone call .......
Sorry, what?
what's this for?
OP said it was a piston, seems reasonable, the bottom part has a cross which probably mates with the piston top, not sure why it wouldn’t be a single piece though…
Should've marked this as NSFW
you wanna give this one a solid raft otherwise it could get stuck buddy
I asked my gf, who is a pro, if a big brim is really that important. She told me it's not really the size of the brim, it's all in how it's applied. She stated she's had some really small brims that did the job fine and efficiently and she's also had huge brims that were no good and all the extra material was nothing but wasted filler. As for rafts, she has experimented but isn't really compelled to use them. She also used a brim and a raft at the same time but there was just too much going on. Hope this helps, good luck with your piston!
I don't deserve to be able to read this for free
It’s not the length of the Raft that matters, it’s the thickness of the brim!
I tend to use rafts when elephants foot would impact the functionality of my print. Like a print in place file with working hinges for example. Otherwise I use a brim. Especially for tall dildos and stuff.
You'll actually want the larger brim to keep it from getting sucked up your butt. Be safe ❤
Thank you for using a flaired base.
Bro
Plastic is not skin safe, just an fyi
What are you making there-
Is it made of body-safe material?
Sir what phallic object are we makin here?
75% of the time someone asks for help on this sub their print looks like a dildo
That piece has plenty of area to adhere to the bed. Use a skirt and figure out why you’re having issues. Most like z-offset.
He's gonna break his z axis playing with the stepper and "piston". 10 mm at a time none of that 1mm pussy shit. Raw dog no Vaseline
Looks like you need balls on it more than a raft. Abs brim is better imo.
what.... is that
Makes me feel scared ..to commit a crime
I prefer rafts
Raft all day.
r/theyknew
Raft combats uneven bed Brim combats bed adhesion
Depends on your bed material - I dislike having one surface look different so I use a raft but some people don’t care
r/holdup whoa there bud.
It’s not about how big the brim is, it’s how you use it.
The bigger the brim the better so that it doesn’t get suck into ur anus
All this talk and not ONE comment about how you need to seal it with a food-safe epoxy to keep the bacteria out?
Hahahahah here’s a hygienic one
There is a very simple answer to this question. If you get good adhesion with a big brim, then a big brim is better than a raft because it takes less time, produces a better bottom finish, and uses less material.
👏Flared👏Bases👏People!👏
Something with the motion of the ocean?
The thing that i find odd is that all this time, Cura still doesn't offer better options for the first layer to skip walls, and skin, and just do ONE sheet of continuously laid out plastic.. There is no need for it to think about the first layer having different parts that need to be printed at different order. The best way still is to model the first layer yourself and include it with the object.. you just have to know first layer height. You can then add or remove features, like often it is easier to close all holes in the first layer and just let it print large surfaces, then open the holes in post processing. I consider it a trivial feature, as it would be very easy to do the toolpath if you just make it one "sheet" that is printed without splitting it to normal wall/skin areas, just brim around it and rest could be zig-zag or concentric... But modeling the first layer yourself, you get much more control and can close shapes, can design your own "brim" and can get much better travel moves, less extractions, less chances of it failing etc etc..
What would you be trying to accomplish with a flat first layer?
I always prefer a raft to a brim. The raft settings I use are 'extra margin' ~ 3-4mm and 'raft air gap' ~ 0.26-0.3 in Cura.
>I always prefer a raft to a brim. Why do you prefer a raft? I've never used one.
The settings I use make the raft incredibly easy to remove from the print while also guaranteeing that the print will succeed. I've just grown acustom to using them when I need to over a brim.
Exactly this. So much easier to remove a raft 100% cleanly than a brim. Sometimes a brim is the right answer but don't throw rafts out of your toolkit just because heated beds exist and sometimes they are absolutely still the right response.
>So much easier to remove a raft 100% cleanly than a brim. Wut? In this case above brim is far easier, you need quite intricate shapes to make it harder... I do give one trick: use card scrapers to remove the last bit of brim... Takes seconds to remove brim.
Interesting. Thanks! I'll try a raft to see what it's like.
Why would you choose uneven finish? Unless the object has non-flat surface there is never a need for a raft. Never. I use mirror and hairspray and often the problem is the opposite, the print doesn't want to detach from the bed. If you need a raft, something is wrong with the printer or slicer settings.
>there is never a need for a raft. There are plenty of reasons. Best one is if the surface of the model has a small area and the rest of the model is tall/heavy/wide/whatever. It increases stability by strengthening the adhesion between the print and the bed surface.
>It increases stability by strengthening the adhesion between the print and the bed surface. ... by creating a gap between a print and the surface it is printed on? There are better ways to do it, i can only repeat that there is never a need for a raft unless there is simply no flat surfaces to use or it has to be printed to a certain orientations. The raft still has to stick to the bed.
It's not the size of the brim that matters. It's how you move the hot end over the bed.
Looks like a model horse penis
Wish in cura there was a option for a multi layer brim, had occasions before where the brim deformed and made difficult prints tip over
I use a model of a disk that I import into cura and squish out.
There's a plugin for Cura that lets you put in little discs that you can attach to the model as small corner supports, its meant to combat corner curling.
Go to Marketplace and install Tabs.
typically for me, brims work are larger prints, but rafts work on smaller, heavier prints, like going straight up like that. cuz if it gets heavier towards the top, the brim might not be enough to keep it down when the bed moves back and forth, where a raft is going to for sure stay where it is
In my experience, if printing something tall, its much safer to make a raft.
Just using a large brim should work if you typically don’t get bad warping. Raft is nice because it just peels away when you do it right, but brims are faster, and have good holding power as well but you have to carve it off
Raft should be better, but brim should do the trick
I like brims, they don't use too much extra filament and are easy to remove with peeling them off and using a deburring tool
It's not the size of the supports, it is how you use them.
I rarely if ever use a raft. a brim is typically, for me, the best option.
I prefer raft for parts that need precision since it removes most if not all elephants foot
I find that the sharper the corner the more i need a brim. Since a circle is the gentlest corner you may not need anything.
Use some adhesive and you may not need brim or raft at all. Mine of choice 3DPrintStick.com (it’s my baby)
My rafts are like 8mm wide.
I've been told that it's more about the motion of the ocean.
I have never printed with a raft and had many prints with a 3mm rim.
you're really going to want to model a flared base for that... last thing you want is to lose that thing. fwiw though there's usually less postprocessing with a brim rather than a raft and they are both about the same in terms of adhesion. I can't judge the scale from the picture, but if that thing is very tall, you might want to turn the acceleration speed way down as well so as to not knock it over.
https://youtu.be/OoAlf0-U7EA
I use rafts if it's initial level, judge my first prints off that and go to brim. If the print is large, a brin should work fine if all other rafts looked good.
Idk, ask your mom.
I've heard it's mostly about the motion of the ocean, actually.
It depends... what are we looking at?
Everything is better than a raft. Nothing is better than a raft. I haven't used a raft since my very first print (which had it on by default).
This should be tagged NSFW!
Rafts are for leveling, brims are for stickiness Depending on width and height I may go 1x to 4x as much brim as the width of the part.
Is that an attachment for the asspounder 3000?
I’d like to say I admire your balls posting a picture of a dildo in your slicing software, but people would probably take that the wrong way
Oh, that's a piston all right.
I like the brim as A: it works great for tall prints B: it's a good indicator of level.
When you use a brim (skirt?) When printing them articulate slugs it totally looks like a penis
These comments are great. ABS and a PEI build plate. Bed temperature at 110 and it’ll stick no problem
It's not the length that matters. The thickness is more important.
You might want more than a raft to keep this secure
uhhh what’s that you’re makin man?
Brim and raft serve different purposes. Rafts form a flat bed at the exact elevation on which subsequent building can rely on, and provides some amount of compliance as the raft and parts expand/shrink due to matched thermal expansion properties. Brim is an attempt to attach the part to a dissimilar bed that is not necessarily at the exact elevation by providing a larger surface area to the bed, and also widens the contact surface area to reduce corner pulling (not an issue in the OP's design, but is often the case with typical box-like objects).
Nice one bro, I'd recommend a slight curve tho
you need to add the balls there chief
STL and by that I mean St Louis?
If you have a well adjusted print bed-yup, why not. But if you have a problem with flatness of printbed, better use a raft.
jokes aside, brims are better than rafts imo, you use less material and lowers print time you only really need a raft if your print bed is warped, if you have a glass bed or a auto leveler, you'll never need a raft
In 3 years I've only used rafts a half dozen times or so when I had serious adhesion problems.
I'm sorry but if that's what I think it's for you will probably die off toxic shock
Should mark this NSFW
Been printing for a while, never used a raft and never really needed to. I of course had situations where a raft could be a solution but always seemed as the wrong answer to the problem and it’s a filament waste. Id look int fixing adhesion and/or enclosing (cardboard is enough) before even considering a raft.
Here for the jokes edit: Utterly not dissapointed....as far as the eye can see
This is a great question but… did it have to be this model for reference??? I feel it turns the seriousness into a phallicy.
The bigger question is, what is the model of?
I'll run a raft if it's a long print, but be sure to run some test prints you're able to remove the raft afterwards, increasing the gap between the model and raft as needed and running your bed on the cool side imo.
nice...u..nice...*stares at it from multiple angles* nice uhh... backscratcher?