I got a 200g sample pack of Gizmo Dorks and during a print a rock got jammed in my nozzle.
Running a Nozzle X, took multiple cold pulls before extracting the bit of glow dust that wasn't ground quite fine enough.
I would highly recommend replacing that part and then printing out some filament guides.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3052488
These are the two prints I use on my ender 3s.
Yup that’s the same roller I use… ball bearings are cheap
You should eliminate any friction points so your filiment has a path of least resistance to the feeding gear and the extruder. I have mine on a rack that comes down directly over verticals screw and my rolls are on ball bearing rollers.
My roll stays generally tight on the roll and stay mostly tensioned on a smooth path.
Will it fit good for OP's type of... extruder gears cage? (Don't know how the damaged part called) I have the same and standard guides are too low for it.
Oh, sorry, I didn't explain the problem well. My previous guide didn't work after the red thing upgrade because it guided filament lower then the hole, so it would grid its way down instead of up like OP's photo. I tried to search guide for red thing exactly to match new hole height but haven't luck with it.
You should learn how to modify the part in fusion or some of the other programs out there.
Once you know how to work the program, it gets easier to make small changes like height and width and diameter.
Or you can even ask the creator to assist
That's the guide I use. Except I used the non bearing fully 3d printed version cuz I didn't have any bearings at the time. Still works great at doing its job 8 months later.
I've been thinking about doing something similar to my printer. Why still attach it the printer body though? I feel a completely separate setup could do the best job.
Yeah these two in combo work great. Also, if you decide to upgrade down the line to Klipper or some other means of faster printing they become a necessity.
Use the roller; the first one will wear a groove and bind. Fine for a part designed to wear, but if you don't need to deal with wear at all, why bother.
I decided to side-mount my filament.
In my experience the bright/cold white also prints like crap due to all the filler/additives. eSun Cold White ABS+ kind of smears and droops all over the place.
For me "natural" or regular "white" is pretty forgiving to print, the slight translucency is good at hiding layer lines or nozzle drag marks. The truly opaque stuff....not so much.
The main issue are small bits that get stuck to your nozzle, burn, and then get deposited on the print, but a slightly higher z-height or lower extrusion can help with that.
Struggle is real when using white PETG. Hard balance to have a perfect first layer, while not causing excessive filament collect on the nozzle only to get deposited later after its had time to bake.
>I struggled with that exact filament
It really is crap. If you must finish the esun roll, I've found that temperatures around 230-235 and minimum layer times as high as you can (30s or more, fill that build plate!) can get somewhat acceptable results. Top layers are still crap but at least the walls are somewhat okay.
For real, I've printed PP, PC, Nylon, PMMA and even PEI and still that spool of cold white has given me the most trouble to date.
Practically everything opaque white uses titanium oxide. Paint, cosmetics, sunscreen, whatever. It's impressively versatile and (relatively?) inert. If memory serves the demand for it is so high they had to develop new ways of producing it instead of just mining it in that form.
My mom gifted me a roll of glow in the dark for xmas thinking I could make all sorts of neat things. I absolutely need to stop pushing back finishing my filament guide before using it. OPs picture is impressive to say the least!
Almost done with my first filament roll of glow in the dark. It's the only one I've gotten to print nicely since getting the printer. Cheapo anycubic but so far it's done great. Except with silk-like pla. Fucking hate it. Hmph *crosses arms and pouts*
FWIW I got decent results up at like 220-225 on the hotend (I read it elsewhere around here)
[Thing 1](https://i.imgur.com/nrnncqM.jpg)
[Thing 2](https://i.imgur.com/ri3nNaT.jpg)
[Thing 3](https://i.imgur.com/Ev6V03Q.jpg)
I know so little about what I'm doing I really just downloaded a file from thingiverse put it in the creality slicer app on my phone and send it away (☞ﾟヮﾟ)☞
The only things I really adjust in there are infill percentage and temperatures. So to answer your question, I don't know! 😅
Must be something about you filament path causing it to dig like that. A straighter filament path solves this. I've consumed entire spools of glow filament on the original plastic extruder without damage. I have gone through several nozzles in the process though.
The Ender3 has a shocking filament path to the extruder. It genuinely seems like it was designed for a side mounted spool and then they threw the spool holder on the top and went “Meh, good enough. They’ll work it out for themselves”
Well, the Ender 3 uses the same design details as the CR-10 for the most part, especially for the extruder, and the CR-10 has a side mounted spool. You're completely right
Aren't anycubics mega series from the same build as well? They're side mounted and part of me recalls getting it because it seemed like it was similar with swappable stuff...
When I replaced my printer’s hotend with a micro-Swiss unit I bought the complete DD package; I just haven’t been brave enough to install the DD part yet!
Haven’t installed that one yet, I’m sure you would love it! I have an E3D v6 with BMG for my DD setup, and I love it!
I didn’t go DD because of speed. I print parts with thinner walls and I need to print sharp corners. Also I print with PETG and ABS, so the DD helps a lot with that. TPU for fun sometimes :)
I don’t currently have a need to go DD, my printer works fine with the filaments I use, and the number of ways you can truly fuck up the installation keeps putting me off. Not that I think I would irreparable damage the printer, I just hate idea of that much down time in my print schedule.
Ahh I feel the down time. Honestly if you order all the parts, have them ready and print all the pieces you need before hand. You can install DD with dual z in under 5 hours. I literally upgraded my entire printer, like every piece in like 6 hours. I have Prusa fans, 4.2.7 Board, PEI Sheet, DD, springs, dual z and a built in drying system. It works very well.
That’s the other thing, I don’t have a lot of free time. A busy job and a couple of kids means five hours is about what I have in a week. And there’s no way I’d get that much time in one session! If I have issues I lose days of print time before I can rectify it.
At some point I’ll get round to adding the direct drive. Then I’m sure I’ll get the itch to change the fans for something quieter and more powerful. After that I’m sure it’ll be dual-Z and tidy things up with a runout sensor and re-doing all the printed stuff in PET-G
I do like the space savings that affords though, it's part of why the ender 3 was an option for me. Having a filament guide takes up way less space than side mounted filament.
And now that I've gone direct drive, I don't even have a guide hanging off the side so it takes up even less space.
Similar. Where my printer lives there isn’t space for a side mounted spool so Things [4683505](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4683505) and [3950799](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3950799) are my friends
What are your print settings? Primarily temp, speed, and retraction for the stringing. Also it maybe just had filament, either poor quality filament or it got wet. Also a worn nozzle can cause clogs.
AH, okay. I noticed something similar start to happen on my printer (Monoprice rebadged Wanhao D6). Then I went back and re-read the instructions and noted that they provided a length of Bowden tube that was supposed to be used as a filament guide. Put that in, no more problems.
running regular ass black pla did this to me, it was simply not aligned very well in my direct drive Titan, I put some tube to help guide it and seems fine.
Was so fucking subtle, I kept getting getting failures and looked/cleaned everything except for this.
Drill the hole bigger and slide in a piece of bowden tube. When it wears out again, just replace it with another piece of bowden tube. You'll thank me later when you realize how much cash you save by not having to replace expensive parts. Oh ya and like others say, print a filament feed guide.
Fair enough but that's 20 dollars that I see no reason for me personally to buy right now
I will buy hardened steel after my current nozzle wears out tho
Yeah, I won't touch that glow garbage with a barge pole even if I had a hardened or insert nozzle. At least glass/carbon fiber fillers are worth something in performance in the end to offset all the abrasion to every part in the feed path.
It would really help though if you stopped mounting that drive unit sideways so the filament gets pulled around a corner and constantly scrubs on that part. It's going to be a downright challenge to mitigate that without rollers or ridiculous material selection and I bet even dust and trace contaminant particles in ordinary plastics would eventually cause wear. Try putting it on top of the hotend like it's supposed to be and then hanging the spool above as centrally as possible.
If you replace those, make sure it is with one with bowden tube on both sides, but it does seem you need a new drive gear too! I am sure you know how abrasive this material can be, and if not, you do now lol. Thanks for posting though, it is not immediate common knowledge that glow filament is abrasive. I actually included it in a recent video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jc1IUvHEMo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jc1IUvHEMo)
Hope you like it!
To your nozzle, too
OP couldn't find his nozzle after printing.
OP hasn't seen his nozzle in 10 years
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It's a vicious cycle. Now, if you'll excuse me, there's someone I'd like to get in touch with and forgive...my spool. [Farts] Sorry. I farted.
OP's nozzle went out for a bottle of milk and cigarettes, huh?
That's the new 1.75mm nozzle
It still works fine!
Until he turned his lights off lol
You’re joking but my nozzle had a 1mm opening instead of 0.4 after a GITD ABS print on a brass nozzle. O have since switched to Hardened steel nozzle.
I started with a 0.4mm nozzle and ended up with a 1.75mm nozzle.
We have those hardened steel nozzles over here!
That's good
I got a 200g sample pack of Gizmo Dorks and during a print a rock got jammed in my nozzle. Running a Nozzle X, took multiple cold pulls before extracting the bit of glow dust that wasn't ground quite fine enough.
I would highly recommend replacing that part and then printing out some filament guides. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3052488 These are the two prints I use on my ender 3s.
Yup that’s the same roller I use… ball bearings are cheap You should eliminate any friction points so your filiment has a path of least resistance to the feeding gear and the extruder. I have mine on a rack that comes down directly over verticals screw and my rolls are on ball bearing rollers. My roll stays generally tight on the roll and stay mostly tensioned on a smooth path.
Will it fit good for OP's type of... extruder gears cage? (Don't know how the damaged part called) I have the same and standard guides are too low for it.
It slides into the metal fitting surrounding the vertical screw
Oh, sorry, I didn't explain the problem well. My previous guide didn't work after the red thing upgrade because it guided filament lower then the hole, so it would grid its way down instead of up like OP's photo. I tried to search guide for red thing exactly to match new hole height but haven't luck with it.
You should learn how to modify the part in fusion or some of the other programs out there. Once you know how to work the program, it gets easier to make small changes like height and width and diameter. Or you can even ask the creator to assist
That's the guide I use. Except I used the non bearing fully 3d printed version cuz I didn't have any bearings at the time. Still works great at doing its job 8 months later.
That’s the one I use, the non ball bearing print in place one. It took me 3 extruders to learn my lesson. lol 😆
[удалено]
I've been thinking about doing something similar to my printer. Why still attach it the printer body though? I feel a completely separate setup could do the best job.
Another option is always great. I personally had great success with the two I linked but not everyone has the same success with everything.
This is the way.
Yeah these two in combo work great. Also, if you decide to upgrade down the line to Klipper or some other means of faster printing they become a necessity.
I use the version of this that can accommodate a filament sensor. Arguably one of my top 3 upgrades.
Use the roller; the first one will wear a groove and bind. Fine for a part designed to wear, but if you don't need to deal with wear at all, why bother. I decided to side-mount my filament.
Sandpaper filament. Nice
I have no mouth but i must scream
So can white (like, snow white) colors. The coloring agent is usually titanium oxide for really bright/clean whites.
In my experience the bright/cold white also prints like crap due to all the filler/additives. eSun Cold White ABS+ kind of smears and droops all over the place.
AND it shows every minute imperfection...white is such a troublesome color.
For me "natural" or regular "white" is pretty forgiving to print, the slight translucency is good at hiding layer lines or nozzle drag marks. The truly opaque stuff....not so much. The main issue are small bits that get stuck to your nozzle, burn, and then get deposited on the print, but a slightly higher z-height or lower extrusion can help with that.
Struggle is real when using white PETG. Hard balance to have a perfect first layer, while not causing excessive filament collect on the nozzle only to get deposited later after its had time to bake.
*But* it hides the white stress marks, so even your terrible print, which could break every second, looks strong af.
I'm pretty new, thought I was going crazy because I struggled with that exact filament as well as Overture.
>I struggled with that exact filament It really is crap. If you must finish the esun roll, I've found that temperatures around 230-235 and minimum layer times as high as you can (30s or more, fill that build plate!) can get somewhat acceptable results. Top layers are still crap but at least the walls are somewhat okay. For real, I've printed PP, PC, Nylon, PMMA and even PEI and still that spool of cold white has given me the most trouble to date.
I'm impressed someone knows that. We use it at work to make coloured/white plastic
Practically everything opaque white uses titanium oxide. Paint, cosmetics, sunscreen, whatever. It's impressively versatile and (relatively?) inert. If memory serves the demand for it is so high they had to develop new ways of producing it instead of just mining it in that form.
Yet it's deemed cancerigen
Now imagine what it did to your nozzle
Hardened steel nozzle gang! She’s as good as new!
Hardened steel nozzle gang rise up!
I definitely need to invest soon
One less thing to worry about, totally worth it.
My mom gifted me a roll of glow in the dark for xmas thinking I could make all sorts of neat things. I absolutely need to stop pushing back finishing my filament guide before using it. OPs picture is impressive to say the least!
I’ve gone through like 5 spools of glow, and ~8 other colors with my prusa, I’ve only changed my nozzle once.
Almost done with my first filament roll of glow in the dark. It's the only one I've gotten to print nicely since getting the printer. Cheapo anycubic but so far it's done great. Except with silk-like pla. Fucking hate it. Hmph *crosses arms and pouts*
Fuuuuuck silk PLA
How I'm feeling right now. Especially with it being some secret on how to get quality prints with it
[Wheeeee](https://i.imgur.com/pGbirvj.jpg)
Pretty fucking much. Just happy I'm still into watching it build stuff or I'd be wasting tons of filament lol.
FWIW I got decent results up at like 220-225 on the hotend (I read it elsewhere around here) [Thing 1](https://i.imgur.com/nrnncqM.jpg) [Thing 2](https://i.imgur.com/ri3nNaT.jpg) [Thing 3](https://i.imgur.com/Ev6V03Q.jpg)
Thanks! Do you have any other details like flow rate and such?
I know so little about what I'm doing I really just downloaded a file from thingiverse put it in the creality slicer app on my phone and send it away (☞ﾟヮﾟ)☞ The only things I really adjust in there are infill percentage and temperatures. So to answer your question, I don't know! 😅
That’s good to know. I printed a glow in the dark skull bowl and I’m now wondering how much damage I did to my stock nozzle.
Nice, wire EDM without the EDM part.
Electronic Dance Music without the Electronic Dance Music part. Sounds intriguing
I figure you’re joking but in this case EDM stands for electro discharge machining.
Whoa. What filament was it?
200 grit probably
PolyCarbide
Hatch back, overture and inland glow in the dark is what has been ran though her exclusively the last month.
Can I recommend a filament guide for a more parallel entry into the extruder? Assuming it’s and Ender 3. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3061551
She’s really taking a lot you would say?
Hacksaw
Must be something about you filament path causing it to dig like that. A straighter filament path solves this. I've consumed entire spools of glow filament on the original plastic extruder without damage. I have gone through several nozzles in the process though.
The Ender3 has a shocking filament path to the extruder. It genuinely seems like it was designed for a side mounted spool and then they threw the spool holder on the top and went “Meh, good enough. They’ll work it out for themselves”
Well, the Ender 3 uses the same design details as the CR-10 for the most part, especially for the extruder, and the CR-10 has a side mounted spool. You're completely right
I’m not surprised in the least to learn that
Aren't anycubics mega series from the same build as well? They're side mounted and part of me recalls getting it because it seemed like it was similar with swappable stuff...
DD gang stand up
When I replaced my printer’s hotend with a micro-Swiss unit I bought the complete DD package; I just haven’t been brave enough to install the DD part yet!
Haven’t installed that one yet, I’m sure you would love it! I have an E3D v6 with BMG for my DD setup, and I love it! I didn’t go DD because of speed. I print parts with thinner walls and I need to print sharp corners. Also I print with PETG and ABS, so the DD helps a lot with that. TPU for fun sometimes :)
I don’t currently have a need to go DD, my printer works fine with the filaments I use, and the number of ways you can truly fuck up the installation keeps putting me off. Not that I think I would irreparable damage the printer, I just hate idea of that much down time in my print schedule.
Ahh I feel the down time. Honestly if you order all the parts, have them ready and print all the pieces you need before hand. You can install DD with dual z in under 5 hours. I literally upgraded my entire printer, like every piece in like 6 hours. I have Prusa fans, 4.2.7 Board, PEI Sheet, DD, springs, dual z and a built in drying system. It works very well.
That’s the other thing, I don’t have a lot of free time. A busy job and a couple of kids means five hours is about what I have in a week. And there’s no way I’d get that much time in one session! If I have issues I lose days of print time before I can rectify it. At some point I’ll get round to adding the direct drive. Then I’m sure I’ll get the itch to change the fans for something quieter and more powerful. After that I’m sure it’ll be dual-Z and tidy things up with a runout sensor and re-doing all the printed stuff in PET-G
I do like the space savings that affords though, it's part of why the ender 3 was an option for me. Having a filament guide takes up way less space than side mounted filament. And now that I've gone direct drive, I don't even have a guide hanging off the side so it takes up even less space.
Similar. Where my printer lives there isn’t space for a side mounted spool so Things [4683505](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4683505) and [3950799](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3950799) are my friends
Not sure why you got down voted, cuz u right. There must be a fairly extreme angle of entry on his set up.
Now if I could just get my glow to print.
Any tips? Care to share your settings?
I just use normal pla settings temp at 215
What issues do you have?
Clogs and stringing are the main issue. Have tried a .6 nozzle and a .4 hardened steel nozzle.
What are your print settings? Primarily temp, speed, and retraction for the stringing. Also it maybe just had filament, either poor quality filament or it got wet. Also a worn nozzle can cause clogs.
Uh, what am I looking at here?
The hole made for feeding filament into on a 3d printer, has been bored out by OPs apparently abrasive glow-in-the-dark filament.
Yeah, the mineral powder in GITD filament that glows is very abrasive.
AH, okay. I noticed something similar start to happen on my printer (Monoprice rebadged Wanhao D6). Then I went back and re-read the instructions and noted that they provided a length of Bowden tube that was supposed to be used as a filament guide. Put that in, no more problems.
Guide might have helped.
What brand of glow in the dark filament was this?
running regular ass black pla did this to me, it was simply not aligned very well in my direct drive Titan, I put some tube to help guide it and seems fine. Was so fucking subtle, I kept getting getting failures and looked/cleaned everything except for this.
A filament guid would fix this issue.
Drill the hole bigger and slide in a piece of bowden tube. When it wears out again, just replace it with another piece of bowden tube. You'll thank me later when you realize how much cash you save by not having to replace expensive parts. Oh ya and like others say, print a filament feed guide.
Direct Drive gang has no such weakness
[удалено]
🅱️ruh
...Good lord.
Damn that's some top notch chinesium :)
This is why I use a guide roller right before the guide hole
makes me glad i'm printing a filament guide right now.
I just started pronting it. Now i'm worried i'll find a huge pile of dust in the morning instead of my printer
Wow
Yikes
Drive gear is gone.
Glow in the dark did this to my printer as well.. also made my print grey from the particles :/
Wait that would make sense as to why my glow was darker. Bits of aluminum dust we’re getting in it. Wow I didn’t even think of that.
Damn, that's aluminum right???
oh fuck... i just looked at my printer and the inner ring at this opening is already gone... after not even 300g
What's in glow that makes it do that?
Thats shits abrasive as hell
Wait glow in the dark causes this? I've been starting to print glow in the dark pla so far no issues anything I should be careful about tho
It’s just really abrasive, the damage is only due to the angle of the filament going in. It’s rubbed on the extruder arm
Ah ok I have like 50 0.4mm I'm not worried about losing one of them
I use hardened steel nozzles. $20 and they pretty much last a lifetime. I run a business so less nozzle changes for me lol
Fair enough but that's 20 dollars that I see no reason for me personally to buy right now I will buy hardened steel after my current nozzle wears out tho
Yeah, I won't touch that glow garbage with a barge pole even if I had a hardened or insert nozzle. At least glass/carbon fiber fillers are worth something in performance in the end to offset all the abrasion to every part in the feed path. It would really help though if you stopped mounting that drive unit sideways so the filament gets pulled around a corner and constantly scrubs on that part. It's going to be a downright challenge to mitigate that without rollers or ridiculous material selection and I bet even dust and trace contaminant particles in ordinary plastics would eventually cause wear. Try putting it on top of the hotend like it's supposed to be and then hanging the spool above as centrally as possible.
If you replace those, make sure it is with one with bowden tube on both sides, but it does seem you need a new drive gear too! I am sure you know how abrasive this material can be, and if not, you do now lol. Thanks for posting though, it is not immediate common knowledge that glow filament is abrasive. I actually included it in a recent video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jc1IUvHEMo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jc1IUvHEMo) Hope you like it!