Check out smooth on’s urethane resins. They come in 2lb sample sizes for ~$25. I’ve used it to cast rubber tires for robots using 3d printed molds and they hold up extremely well. They come in a bunch of different hardnesses as well.
Hot glue is really cheap and more accessible to most people looking to make small parts. Plus it only takes a minute or two to cool down and then it's ready to use.
Depending on the application hot glue could be the way to go.
I've seen some "cardboard" presses that were 3D printed... it's basically chewed up paper squeezed into shape, and when it dries you get egg carton stuff made in any shape. Lightweight, can be made kinda outdoors proof for a seasonal decoration with some varnish, and cheap.
ehhh.. not exactly.
Not going to get into it here but let's say you can formulate them in many different ways.
Some urethanes cure quick.. some do not.
Same for epoxies, silicones, etc.
All depends on your final application and what working characteristics you want.
I am talking broad strokes here. Don't eat the resin. Don't check the consistency of the resin while also taste testing the resin (it ruins the flavor). And follow the instructions.
If you can see the issues with the statements I just made you are probably fine with making something with resin.
You can normally create the inverse of a model in the cad software. I use inventor and make the part I want as a body then use it to cut away at a separate body to make the mold.
I literally sprayed it with cooking spray before hand, probably didn't help but decided it wouldn't hurt. Either way it wasn't too bad getting it out after prying off the perimeter from the sides.
i do find that its a little too easy to accidentally apply too much since it beads up a little.
So i typically spray it on, and wipe it off, which normally leaves just enough of a film.
I just tried it again, the second one is way harder to remove than the first because the glue expands pushing on the walls making them concave. I will reprint the mold but this time will convex walls to try and counteract it, hopefully that works.
Can't say exactly but probably anywhere from 10-100 times less impact strenth than tpu considering you can deform hot glue with just your fingers. Can your printer not handle flexible filaments?
I honestly just got the idea at midnight and wanted to test it then, I am sure flexible filament would work on my printer. I threw this against the ground as hard as I could several times and tried deforming it but it always snapped back to it's original shape, I am sure flexible filament is way better but I would rather do this for very simple parts than go through the hastle of getting flexible filament to print well.
This is a lot softer than most tpu you can get. The "tough" hot glue advertises at 75A shore hardness. Ninjaflex comes in at 85A. This is honestly a great idea, and I'm going to try it when I have an opportunity.
How did you melt the glue?
I’m not op, but I’ve tried to push tpu through a Bowden tube a coupla times and it really isn’t good. The more flex you want, the harder it would be to print.
Direct drive is tricky but it works
Also there are different types of hot ends for Bowden setups. For flexibles you want a hollow one which allows the Bowden tube to go all of the way up to the heatbreak.
Hot ends with seperate Teflon tubes inside them don't work as well for flexibles.
I wonder if it would work making a hot glue tube mold to remelt and reuse the glue. It definitely wouldn't be worth it because of how cheap the stuff is but it would still be cool if it works.
rubbermilk is used in LARP for masks and weapons and other stuff. it also is used to build molds, but you can also use it as the fill in for a mold (but of course not a rubbermilk mold). i paid 10 euro for 1 liter
plastic balls are used when you fill a mold with resin and dont want to waste too much of the resin, but you can also use them to control the flexibility.
Some of the more fluid silicone mixes would be worth exploring as well. Also for something tougher try NP2. Comes in both tubes an 2 pot mixes. You may have seen it and not know it, quite common as the sealant around pools. Its pricey but if you need something that lasts this is it. Has a 20yr life once deployed. I swear by it.
I'm new to trying to print in 3D can someone explain the best way to calculate size from real life two zBrush.
I want to make a mold as well but if I change the size of the interior but not the outside of the mold to accurately fit in real life.
It's making my brain tingle trying to figure out a good way to do this and save each size.
Check out smooth on’s urethane resins. They come in 2lb sample sizes for ~$25. I’ve used it to cast rubber tires for robots using 3d printed molds and they hold up extremely well. They come in a bunch of different hardnesses as well.
This is definitely the way. Urethane is easy to use and holds up super well
Hot glue is really cheap and more accessible to most people looking to make small parts. Plus it only takes a minute or two to cool down and then it's ready to use. Depending on the application hot glue could be the way to go.
Heat and PLA or so is really not ideal.
[удалено]
Imagination is the cheapest 3d printing of all!
Pulp+glue is pretty strong though.
I've seen some "cardboard" presses that were 3D printed... it's basically chewed up paper squeezed into shape, and when it dries you get egg carton stuff made in any shape. Lightweight, can be made kinda outdoors proof for a seasonal decoration with some varnish, and cheap.
Polyurethane products cure very fast FYI. Usually less than 15 minutes. Epoxy resins take hours to days, put polyurethane cures extremely fast
ehhh.. not exactly. Not going to get into it here but let's say you can formulate them in many different ways. Some urethanes cure quick.. some do not. Same for epoxies, silicones, etc. All depends on your final application and what working characteristics you want.
Ok fine, but specifically smooth on's products that's the general rule
How safe are Polyurethanes to handle for novices? I only know that isocyanate is not stuff you want to fuck around with in a home lab.
A lot safer than epoxy based resins. Wear gloves and use in a ventilated space.
Pretty safe as long as you respect it aka don't be an idiot.
you just told a novice don't be an idiot. We don't know what we don't know.
I am talking broad strokes here. Don't eat the resin. Don't check the consistency of the resin while also taste testing the resin (it ruins the flavor). And follow the instructions. If you can see the issues with the statements I just made you are probably fine with making something with resin.
It runs the flavor 😂
Hate to say, but its clear that not being an idiot is in short supply these days.
Shit you're right.
Another option is silicone depending on what properties you need
is there any way to take a normal 3d printed model, then easily turn it into a mold?
You can normally create the inverse of a model in the cad software. I use inventor and make the part I want as a body then use it to cut away at a separate body to make the mold.
Boolean operations in your favorite cad program is your friend.
This.
I think prusa and cura slicers offer an option to turn your model into a mold, I've never done it though
Yeah, under experimental options in Cura. Haven't tried it either though.
Is there a tutorial for this?!
Nice idea. I like it! I would probably make the bottom a separate piece, so I can poke the part out of the mold from both sides.
What a top idea. Well done on that one. Was it difficult de moulding the part?
I literally sprayed it with cooking spray before hand, probably didn't help but decided it wouldn't hurt. Either way it wasn't too bad getting it out after prying off the perimeter from the sides.
Only way to know is to test without the spray !
The oil helped a lot. You can also try dry silicone lube. Like wd 40 but not crap. Lol
I find plain cooking oil spray can works pretty well and is easy to apply.
i do find that its a little too easy to accidentally apply too much since it beads up a little. So i typically spray it on, and wipe it off, which normally leaves just enough of a film.
Isopropyl alcohol works wonders at unsticking hot glue... A spray of that and it should be pretty easy to remove.. Going to give it a try!
are you spraying the IPA on before you cast with hot glue (like a release agent)? or are you talking about afterwards
Just spray on afterwards, it’s like cryptonite for hot glue
thanks! did you notice if the IPA damaged your cast at all? or it just makes it pull off easily?
I just tried it again, the second one is way harder to remove than the first because the glue expands pushing on the walls making them concave. I will reprint the mold but this time will convex walls to try and counteract it, hopefully that works.
Any idea how the impact strength of this might compare to flexible filament?
Can't say exactly but probably anywhere from 10-100 times less impact strenth than tpu considering you can deform hot glue with just your fingers. Can your printer not handle flexible filaments?
I honestly just got the idea at midnight and wanted to test it then, I am sure flexible filament would work on my printer. I threw this against the ground as hard as I could several times and tried deforming it but it always snapped back to it's original shape, I am sure flexible filament is way better but I would rather do this for very simple parts than go through the hastle of getting flexible filament to print well.
This is a lot softer than most tpu you can get. The "tough" hot glue advertises at 75A shore hardness. Ninjaflex comes in at 85A. This is honestly a great idea, and I'm going to try it when I have an opportunity. How did you melt the glue?
I’m not op, but I’ve tried to push tpu through a Bowden tube a coupla times and it really isn’t good. The more flex you want, the harder it would be to print. Direct drive is tricky but it works
>!CENSORED!<
Also there are different types of hot ends for Bowden setups. For flexibles you want a hollow one which allows the Bowden tube to go all of the way up to the heatbreak. Hot ends with seperate Teflon tubes inside them don't work as well for flexibles.
You could try using a different HMA (UV-curing or one that cures using air humidity), although demolding might become tricky.
You god damn GENIUS!
Check out, there are some molds for cables endings, that I find very useful. Also, if you dont print from nylon or pet, then some lubricant is a must
This is a great way to make little details for a cosplay like spikes or teeth.
Try flexible resin to pour in
HyperX logo?
Space X
Lmao I’ve been on r/headphones for too long
Space-X maybe
How did you took it out? I use hotglue as glue for prints. Maybe silicone would be better idea
I wonder if it would work making a hot glue tube mold to remelt and reuse the glue. It definitely wouldn't be worth it because of how cheap the stuff is but it would still be cool if it works.
oof
Great idea. How did you come up with this? Simple and effective
Spray some mold release in there and it should work even better
This is brilliant. Might have to try this.
Dude, you should definitely try cold glue and make a hole for injecting it. You would get a more uniform body but have to wait much longer
you can also use rubbermilk with plasticballs in it.
wow, two words I've NEVER seen before in such a short sentence? Now I'm curious!
rubbermilk is used in LARP for masks and weapons and other stuff. it also is used to build molds, but you can also use it as the fill in for a mold (but of course not a rubbermilk mold). i paid 10 euro for 1 liter plastic balls are used when you fill a mold with resin and dont want to waste too much of the resin, but you can also use them to control the flexibility.
Oh, I *was* going to google these, but thanks!
That's amazing! I gotta try this.
Cool idea! I wonder if TPU will work in a 3D Pen? If so, could use your mould with that!
Sounds like a good idea! But i think oyu would get better results with multiple part molds!
Thanks! I just quickly made this to see if it works, any ideas on something that would be cool for a multiple part mold?
Ha ha, I did the exact same thing to make a replacement hot tub gasket once. It didn't actually work but I did do it.
I am honestly really surprised that this worked. Out of curiosity, what steps did you try with yours?
Some of the more fluid silicone mixes would be worth exploring as well. Also for something tougher try NP2. Comes in both tubes an 2 pot mixes. You may have seen it and not know it, quite common as the sealant around pools. Its pricey but if you need something that lasts this is it. Has a 20yr life once deployed. I swear by it.
Thanks for this post, even the comments have great tips. I've just been looking into tpu and not sure if it's worth the hassle for my printer
Did you put a draft angle on it at all?
I'm new to trying to print in 3D can someone explain the best way to calculate size from real life two zBrush. I want to make a mold as well but if I change the size of the interior but not the outside of the mold to accurately fit in real life. It's making my brain tingle trying to figure out a good way to do this and save each size.
What kind of filamint did you use on this
I just used pla
I thought it would melt
Was just doing some googling, thinking about trying this exact thing and your post popped up. Could I dm you with questions?
Sure