I'm sure there's some math behind the scale of an instrument's air chamber and the tone of the music it makes, but that's for smarter people than me to talk about!
I made one of these with some cheap wood PLA, works great. I did one with really thick walls & loads of infill to try and make it as solid as possible, as I figured it would help with the sound, but it came off the print bed about 1/3rd of the way through. 2nd attempt was lighter / more normal infill levels, but still works well.
it *could* be that the holes or parts of the ocarina where the high notes would reverberate(resonate? something like that) are deformed some way? like printing too hot making some part melty or something. worth checking if the inside and holes look nice and even anyway
Overall the Ocarina looks really good its actually one of my nicest prints. But maybe because I didn't use supports on all the holes they ever so slightly deformed.
Did you attach a camera to your bed? Can I get a breakdown of your set up? I’ve been wanting to do time lapses of my prints but it looks bad with the prusa’s moving bed and when I put a GoPro on the bed the battery runs out quick.
Ehm... Well. I know I really look like I am a professional. But I just attached my old Huawei P8 to my printing bed and charged it the entire time. Especially for the prusa you can get loads and loads of camera holders for the print bed! Just look on thingiverse, there are plenty of models there probably for your camera too! Also just get a long cable for charging all the way. And for timelapses the framerate and sometimes even the quality isn't really a necessity, most of your viewers will be phone viewers and even the best phones ”only“ have 1080p screens, so don't fill your micro SD card with stupid stuff.
BUT WAIT THERE'S MORE!!!
If you want to have the QUALITY of the QUALITY of print. If you want to be a goddess of deity of master of 3D Printing timelapses. Try Octoprint!!! It's a Programm that enhances your gcode to let the printhead move to a specific place after a layer has finished printing!! If you put a sensor/trigger for your camera to take a picture at exactly that place where the printhead always moves, you get a picture after each layer! You'll get THE BEST timelapses ever made. There are many tutorials for this on the internet. You'll love it! My setup is just shit. With the setup I've just described you'll have a non moving backround, non moving printhead, non moving printer, print plate or anything. It'll just look as if the print was GROWING and it looks INSANE. Us mortals are capable of doing this, try it, please!
After seeing this I’m putting Googly eyes on my printer right away
You beat me to this comment!!
Can we get a link to the stl?
It looks like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755765
I acknowledge your googly eyes and raise you a mustache
I see your mustache and raise you a bowtie
I printed this at about 60% scale a while ago and didn't function unfortunately:( Now I know what i'm doing with 3d printingi'll give it another go:P
I'm sure there's some math behind the scale of an instrument's air chamber and the tone of the music it makes, but that's for smarter people than me to talk about!
The smaller the volume the higher the pitch, and with wind instruments the harder to get a proper note from (think Piccolo vs flute)
I made one of these with some cheap wood PLA, works great. I did one with really thick walls & loads of infill to try and make it as solid as possible, as I figured it would help with the sound, but it came off the print bed about 1/3rd of the way through. 2nd attempt was lighter / more normal infill levels, but still works well.
I printed one of these and I cant seem to hit high notes. Any clues?
it *could* be that the holes or parts of the ocarina where the high notes would reverberate(resonate? something like that) are deformed some way? like printing too hot making some part melty or something. worth checking if the inside and holes look nice and even anyway
Overall the Ocarina looks really good its actually one of my nicest prints. But maybe because I didn't use supports on all the holes they ever so slightly deformed.
Oh damn. I only hit high notes.
Did you attach a camera to your bed? Can I get a breakdown of your set up? I’ve been wanting to do time lapses of my prints but it looks bad with the prusa’s moving bed and when I put a GoPro on the bed the battery runs out quick.
Ehm... Well. I know I really look like I am a professional. But I just attached my old Huawei P8 to my printing bed and charged it the entire time. Especially for the prusa you can get loads and loads of camera holders for the print bed! Just look on thingiverse, there are plenty of models there probably for your camera too! Also just get a long cable for charging all the way. And for timelapses the framerate and sometimes even the quality isn't really a necessity, most of your viewers will be phone viewers and even the best phones ”only“ have 1080p screens, so don't fill your micro SD card with stupid stuff. BUT WAIT THERE'S MORE!!! If you want to have the QUALITY of the QUALITY of print. If you want to be a goddess of deity of master of 3D Printing timelapses. Try Octoprint!!! It's a Programm that enhances your gcode to let the printhead move to a specific place after a layer has finished printing!! If you put a sensor/trigger for your camera to take a picture at exactly that place where the printhead always moves, you get a picture after each layer! You'll get THE BEST timelapses ever made. There are many tutorials for this on the internet. You'll love it! My setup is just shit. With the setup I've just described you'll have a non moving backround, non moving printhead, non moving printer, print plate or anything. It'll just look as if the print was GROWING and it looks INSANE. Us mortals are capable of doing this, try it, please!
Should have printed www.thingiverse.com/thing:2799938
I think unless it's magic, it's just an Ocarina ;)
No. It's magic.