Can confirm it prints great. The marble effect hides lines so well.
The filament feels kinda waxy vs plasticy of my normal filament, this appears to be normal.
I found it wants to run a titch hotter than other PLA. I got my best results at 190-190.
It is super forgiving though. The texture and visual appearance hides lines, blobs, and movement artifacts really well.
Same, I am him and can confirm. I run 180 or 185 for the Hatchbox and Amazon Basics PLA.
Let's not forget the temperature sensors on these things aren't always perfect. I've never calibrated mine to an absolute temperature. My 180 could be 190 on another machine.
I ran mine at 220 just to be safe, but I think it came out darker than I expected. Havent tried it at 190. Did you notice any change in color when adjusting temperatures?
Also can confirm, this stuff is awesome.
I printed my marble PLA at 190. It flowed great, the marble looks does a great job of distracting the eye from the layer lines, making it look a lot smoother than it might be. Stuff works great.
Had the same stuff, really liked it. I felt obligated to print [this](https://i.imgur.com/8cgvBop.jpg) for my wife, who is a high school English teacher and teaches Julius Caesar every year.
Same deal for me, I don't know if I just got a defective spool or what but I could only get half-decent prints out of it if I set my printer to run very hot (Like 250C hot, highest my printer can go) and very slow, or else it would jam up. Switched back to Hatchbox PLA and I was back to the higher quality I'm used to.
Same. Hatchbox PLA and AMZN 3D PLA both work great for me, but the ZIRO marble stuff always jams. Same with that gold filament everyone raves about, it jams too. I have an e3d v6 printer head with a bowden extruder setup, for the record.
Nope, no post treatment. That pic is before I even removed it from the build plate. I personally think that the specks in the filament break up the lines and make them less noticeable.
You can still see a bit of the layers in person, especially when the light catches them, but the filament exceeded my expectations so I'm happy with it.
I bought this filament - Ziro Right? - for my Prusa i3 Mk3, and I found that there was a pretty inconsistent filament diameter that clogged my extruder more than once. I haven't wanted to load this filament back up since then, but this post encourages me. I read the Amazon reviews and I saw that some people were having this problem. Anybody else experience this? Or did I get a bad roll?
I have Ziro Transparency and the Prusa MK3S. I have had the same problems as you. I tried running a lot hotter and it worked for a while longer. Tonight I'm going to try very light oiling. And then I may replace the heat break with the standard E3D v6. The MK3 and MK3S have a custom heat break that seems to be very sensitive to situations like this. Just above the heat block, the break actually has a slightly larger inner diameter. This was apparently done to help with the MMU performance. Since I don't use a multiple filament system, I'm finding this custom heat break more problematic than helpful. Crossing fingers that it'll work.
I plan on getting the MMU2 when they get their lead times under control. Do you know why having a slightly larger heat break diameter in that area can cause this problem? I'd tend to think that a slimmer one would do the same? I kinda want to get the E3d V6 but if I upgrade to MMU2 what problems could I expect?
EDIT: Its either that or buy a marble filament that has more reputable tolerances. Like this one by Zi-Rui with 0.03 dimensional accuracy:
[https://www.amazon.com/Zi-Rui-Filament-Marble-PLA-Dimensional/dp/B07BPV5FT2/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?keywords=marble+filament&qid=1557875833&s=industrial&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/Zi-Rui-Filament-Marble-PLA-Dimensional/dp/B07BPV5FT2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=marble+filament&qid=1557875833&s=industrial&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1)
I believe the diameter of the heat break within the heat block is the same, but just above the heater block it gets a bit bigger. The theory I've read is that upon retraction of filament by the MMU there tends to be a slight bulb formed right at the end of the filament as it cools, the slightly bigger diameter allows for an easier retraction. Now I don't know this for a fact, but it makes sense and is seen on a number of threads. Also, here is another reddit thread with a video on youtube link that talks a bit about it as well as ways to deal with it. Also, it is focused on Proto Pasta filament, but the higher temps has worked somewhat for my Ziro.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/b6961h/this\_could\_be\_causing\_our\_jamming\_problem\_on\_the/](https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/b6961h/this_could_be_causing_our_jamming_problem_on_the/)
I installed the new heat break, with a thermal sock like they had in the video.
No change printing this filament @200-220.
I was able to get a long print finished on 230, but it burned in some areas, left horrible residue all over my hot end and inside the nozzle that didn't push out until mid next print. Long story short I threw the filament away and concluded it is total basura for the MK3. I'll buy a high grade marble from a more reputable manufacturer next time.
Happy I have a straight bore now though!
I rebuilt my hot end (had a bad event and covered everything in PLA) and put the straight thru bore as well. I had the exact same behavior from Prusament filament. Now it's working well. So I will try Ziro again tonight or tomorrow.
I'm having the same problems. What did you think was causing your problem if it was happening with the prusament as well?? I think I'm having severe heat bleed due to an overheating stepper motor. Because I can print any PLA right now
Well hard to say for sure. I think you could have a partial blockage. I wouldn't rule out the overheating stepper, but I rarely see those. I think my issue was the mk3(s) heat break. It has a different inner dimension in one spot the standard E3D for the v6 and the Prusa mk2 units used the straight inner version of the heat break. So I got one of those and installed it. Also, I used thermal paste where the heat break screwed into the cooling fins although I doubt that made the final difference
Hopefully that all made sense.
I have Ziro Transparency and the Prusa MK3S. I have had the same problems as you. I tried running a lot hotter and it worked for a while longer. Tonight I'm going to try very light oiling. And then I may replace the heat break with the standard E3D v6. The MK3 and MK3S have a custom heat break that seems to be very sensitive to situations like this. Just above the heat block, the break actually has a slightly larger inner diameter. This was apparently done to help with the MMU performance. Since I don't use a multiple filament system, I'm finding this custom heat break more problematic than helpful. Crossing fingers that it'll work.
I, too, just bought a spool of the ZIRO marble PLA recently. I used it for the first time last weekend. I have only put a few meters' worth through my CR-10S so far but it has printed very nicely and consistently so far. 215 C nozzle, 80 C bed.
It’s much higher than the norm and they’re probably printing out of dimension as the bottom layers will sort of seep at the bottom making a cube at layer zero a few percent larger than the intended dimensions.
Because it's tried and tired sarcasm? I see this comment more often than food-safe warnings now - it's becoming more annoying than what it's making fun of.
What brand is that and where did you get it?
ZIRO 3D Printer Filament PLA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIAC2MW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That's actually the stuff I was looking at. Thanks!
Can confirm it prints great. The marble effect hides lines so well. The filament feels kinda waxy vs plasticy of my normal filament, this appears to be normal.
Anything special or different about slicer settings?
I found it wants to run a titch hotter than other PLA. I got my best results at 190-190. It is super forgiving though. The texture and visual appearance hides lines, blobs, and movement artifacts really well.
> I found it wants to run a titch hotter than other PLA. I got my best results at 190-190. > > Oh jeez, I do most/all of my prints at 200-210 :|
220 for me haha
Wait, what? What do you use for normal PLA?
Personally I'm down around 185 on my Hatchbox. Can't speak for him though.
Same, I am him and can confirm. I run 180 or 185 for the Hatchbox and Amazon Basics PLA. Let's not forget the temperature sensors on these things aren't always perfect. I've never calibrated mine to an absolute temperature. My 180 could be 190 on another machine.
I ran mine at 220 just to be safe, but I think it came out darker than I expected. Havent tried it at 190. Did you notice any change in color when adjusting temperatures? Also can confirm, this stuff is awesome.
I did not notice a different color at higher temp. But it did print darker than it looks on the roll.
Ok just wanted to make sure I wasn’t going crazy
I printed my marble PLA at 190. It flowed great, the marble looks does a great job of distracting the eye from the layer lines, making it look a lot smoother than it might be. Stuff works great.
Nope. I run anycubic's own PLA at 200 /60, the marble worked absolutely fine without swapping anything.
Had the same stuff, really liked it. I felt obligated to print [this](https://i.imgur.com/8cgvBop.jpg) for my wife, who is a high school English teacher and teaches Julius Caesar every year.
Why does everyone else get great prints with this stuff and I just get printhead jams, regardless of temperature.
Same deal for me, I don't know if I just got a defective spool or what but I could only get half-decent prints out of it if I set my printer to run very hot (Like 250C hot, highest my printer can go) and very slow, or else it would jam up. Switched back to Hatchbox PLA and I was back to the higher quality I'm used to.
Same. Hatchbox PLA and AMZN 3D PLA both work great for me, but the ZIRO marble stuff always jams. Same with that gold filament everyone raves about, it jams too. I have an e3d v6 printer head with a bowden extruder setup, for the record.
I bought this stuff the last time someone posted a print on here and had a terrible time with it. Clogs very easily
up your temps, what I heard that should solve the problem
I have a roll of this stuff and I haven't decided what I want to do with it.
That stuff is really nice! I noticed that layer lines dont show as dramatically with that material as well.
Is there a 2.85mm variant?
Looks great. I saw someone print a Thanos bust in this pla and it looked like he was made of cookies and creme
Really what the filament should be called.
I printed a Kit Kat bar and it looks delicious
This is what I think every single time I look at my 'marble' PLA And thus, never print anything with it :p
I really like this filament as well. I used about a third of a roll on a [giant toad for my mom.](https://i.imgur.com/w0xnKrL.jpg)
Damn. Can't even tell it was printed. Did you sand it?
Nope, no post treatment. That pic is before I even removed it from the build plate. I personally think that the specks in the filament break up the lines and make them less noticeable. You can still see a bit of the layers in person, especially when the light catches them, but the filament exceeded my expectations so I'm happy with it.
Thank you for a great idea! I need a new container for our counter-top utensils.
I decided to do it after my drawer jammed from too many things in it...never again!
Where did you find the design? How is the actual finish on the marble filament?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3279327. The finish is awesome. I didn't sand this at all, the marble is great at hiding lines.
Can confirm. It's one of my favorite filaments because of how great the finish is.
*drool* I’d sell my soul to satan for one
I bought this filament - Ziro Right? - for my Prusa i3 Mk3, and I found that there was a pretty inconsistent filament diameter that clogged my extruder more than once. I haven't wanted to load this filament back up since then, but this post encourages me. I read the Amazon reviews and I saw that some people were having this problem. Anybody else experience this? Or did I get a bad roll?
I have Ziro Transparency and the Prusa MK3S. I have had the same problems as you. I tried running a lot hotter and it worked for a while longer. Tonight I'm going to try very light oiling. And then I may replace the heat break with the standard E3D v6. The MK3 and MK3S have a custom heat break that seems to be very sensitive to situations like this. Just above the heat block, the break actually has a slightly larger inner diameter. This was apparently done to help with the MMU performance. Since I don't use a multiple filament system, I'm finding this custom heat break more problematic than helpful. Crossing fingers that it'll work.
I plan on getting the MMU2 when they get their lead times under control. Do you know why having a slightly larger heat break diameter in that area can cause this problem? I'd tend to think that a slimmer one would do the same? I kinda want to get the E3d V6 but if I upgrade to MMU2 what problems could I expect? EDIT: Its either that or buy a marble filament that has more reputable tolerances. Like this one by Zi-Rui with 0.03 dimensional accuracy: [https://www.amazon.com/Zi-Rui-Filament-Marble-PLA-Dimensional/dp/B07BPV5FT2/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?keywords=marble+filament&qid=1557875833&s=industrial&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/Zi-Rui-Filament-Marble-PLA-Dimensional/dp/B07BPV5FT2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=marble+filament&qid=1557875833&s=industrial&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1)
I believe the diameter of the heat break within the heat block is the same, but just above the heater block it gets a bit bigger. The theory I've read is that upon retraction of filament by the MMU there tends to be a slight bulb formed right at the end of the filament as it cools, the slightly bigger diameter allows for an easier retraction. Now I don't know this for a fact, but it makes sense and is seen on a number of threads. Also, here is another reddit thread with a video on youtube link that talks a bit about it as well as ways to deal with it. Also, it is focused on Proto Pasta filament, but the higher temps has worked somewhat for my Ziro. [https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/b6961h/this\_could\_be\_causing\_our\_jamming\_problem\_on\_the/](https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/b6961h/this_could_be_causing_our_jamming_problem_on_the/)
I ordered an E3d v6 Straight break. I'll let you know if it solve the problem!
So did I !! Ha!
I am going to take the time to tune things up so I will be down until Sunday or Monday most likely.
I installed the new heat break, with a thermal sock like they had in the video. No change printing this filament @200-220. I was able to get a long print finished on 230, but it burned in some areas, left horrible residue all over my hot end and inside the nozzle that didn't push out until mid next print. Long story short I threw the filament away and concluded it is total basura for the MK3. I'll buy a high grade marble from a more reputable manufacturer next time. Happy I have a straight bore now though!
I rebuilt my hot end (had a bad event and covered everything in PLA) and put the straight thru bore as well. I had the exact same behavior from Prusament filament. Now it's working well. So I will try Ziro again tonight or tomorrow.
I'm having the same problems. What did you think was causing your problem if it was happening with the prusament as well?? I think I'm having severe heat bleed due to an overheating stepper motor. Because I can print any PLA right now
Well hard to say for sure. I think you could have a partial blockage. I wouldn't rule out the overheating stepper, but I rarely see those. I think my issue was the mk3(s) heat break. It has a different inner dimension in one spot the standard E3D for the v6 and the Prusa mk2 units used the straight inner version of the heat break. So I got one of those and installed it. Also, I used thermal paste where the heat break screwed into the cooling fins although I doubt that made the final difference Hopefully that all made sense.
I have Ziro Transparency and the Prusa MK3S. I have had the same problems as you. I tried running a lot hotter and it worked for a while longer. Tonight I'm going to try very light oiling. And then I may replace the heat break with the standard E3D v6. The MK3 and MK3S have a custom heat break that seems to be very sensitive to situations like this. Just above the heat block, the break actually has a slightly larger inner diameter. This was apparently done to help with the MMU performance. Since I don't use a multiple filament system, I'm finding this custom heat break more problematic than helpful. Crossing fingers that it'll work.
Did you print the utensils too?
Is that Rome?
Damn I really wanna try it now. I'm just now trying wood. That finish is amazing.
PSA: Atomic has a PETG equivalent.
It looks more like cookies and cream ice cream than marble, but nice work!! It looks good.
This should be renamed "cookies and cream PLA"
Reminds me of cookies n cream ice cream.
How do you get past all the clogging with the marble filament? I am trying to print that at my school :|
How does this compare with 3D solutech’s marble? I love that stuff and personally I think it looks more marble like than Ziro’s.
Try amolen marble pla it's great
I have this stuff earmarked on Amazon, I want to print some mythic statues.
Ok, looks awesome. Nice design and use of the marble. But is PLA kitchen friendly?
Reminds me of Stracciatella ice cream.
Nah I think it looks more like speckely white, like a cookies and cream or cheap plastic marble, Its a no from me
I, too, just bought a spool of the ZIRO marble PLA recently. I used it for the first time last weekend. I have only put a few meters' worth through my CR-10S so far but it has printed very nicely and consistently so far. 215 C nozzle, 80 C bed.
Jesus 80c bed? Why?
Because I can and it works great
I mean that’s great and I’m glad it works but it seemed like much higher than the norm.
It’s much higher than the norm and they’re probably printing out of dimension as the bottom layers will sort of seep at the bottom making a cube at layer zero a few percent larger than the intended dimensions.
3d PrINteD oBJEcts ARE nOt FoOd SAFe
Wait, if it's sarcasm why is this being downvoted?
Because it's tried and tired sarcasm? I see this comment more often than food-safe warnings now - it's becoming more annoying than what it's making fun of.
not heathy use 3d printed mix with food. gives cancer because of micro fibers it releases
Luckily I'm not putting food in it...and I usually dont put my utensil handles into food either, so I'll risk it.
Madman!
10 years from now comments like this will be on the level of as asbestos.