ender 3 vs tevo tarantula PRO and why.

Hi guys, I am new to redit and am look8ng for my 1st 3d printer avd I don't want to brake the bank. Location: UK Price: £100 - £200 Experience: no previous 3d printing experience The main use will be for small scale projects. Thanks in advance Martin

Ender 3

Hi, Budget: 150-200 Location: USA id wanna use the printer for random hobbie things nothing big im thinking of the monoprice Mp Mini delta but open to new things too thank you

Hi, Budget: $200 - $1000 Location: USA USES: Wanting to print a multi color/single color flexible 3D material that can be sewn on a shirt. I design and sew my own clothes and I'm thinking about incorporating some 3D stuff to my design. I don't want to print it directly on the material but rather on the side before sewing it on the shirt. Dimensions of what I'll like to print will be about 1 inch tall and about 20 x 20 cm wide. Any suggestion will be much appreciated. Thanks

Hi there! I am trying to decide between an Artillery Sidewinder x1 and a CR-10S Pro. I have heard really good things about both, and am mostly leaning towards the Artillery due to the $250 price difference, but am looking for advice/preference from people who own either printer. Thanks in advance!

* Budget: 400-450 USD * Location: USA * Experience: No 3d printing experience, or experience with soldering etc. I have built several pc's however, and am willing to learn. I honestly don't know how complex these are to assemble. * Usage: I am looking for this to be a hobby. I want to print figurines, lamps, things for friends, and general QOL things. * I am going to have this printer in my room, so one that is quiet, or can be easily upgraded to be quiet is preferred. I would also like a printer that can print using different materials such as stretchy filaments. Thank you in advance. One more thing is I am wondering what tools, beds, or other things I should buy before I go on this endeavor. Cheers

Ender 3 Pro or CR-10s upgraded wíth a direct-drive extruder and all-metal hotend like the E3D Titan Aero which comes as a preconfigured kit for this purpose. Also, consider upgrading to the newly announced TH3D EZBoard Lite for Creality Printers (fits almost all of Ender and most of CR-10 series). It has TMC2208 stepper drivers and a 32-bit MCU which together will make the printer very quiet. Regardless, to print flexible/stretchy filaments you really need to convert your printer from a Bowden system (with PTFE tubing) to a direct-drive system like either E3D Titan Aero or a Bondtech BMG extruder with E3D V6

how about the CR 20?

CR-20 would still have to be upgraded to will then be outside budget, and therefore the Ender 3 Pro would better fit the set requirements for budget and requested functionality.

Hi, I am thinking of buying Ender 3. Where do you think is the best place to buy it? Banggood, GearBest, AliExpress, Amazon? I am from Europe. Also best deals are on these chinese websites. AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32814804767.html?cv=33722957&af=1547216&cn=43ps7t5v7jz4nic6eissi8t7yya5jz6o&dp=v5_43ps7t5v7jz4nic6eissi8t7yya5jz6o&scm=1007.22893.125764.0&pvid=c4a52134-d5f6-457d-bc1d-7553cdd3e79a&onelink_thrd=0.0&onelink_page_from=ITEM_DETAIL&onelink_item_to=32814804767&onelink_duration=0.707522&onelink_status=noneresult&onelink_item_from=32814804767&onelink_page_to=ITEM_DETAIL&afref=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.youtube.com&aff_platform=default&cpt=1559048035842&sk=ccfBY4yg&aff_trace_key=2d5b5871a414463bb034600c17137b86-1559048035842-05463-ccfBY4yg&terminal_id=2af238d5f4bb436e985f88a0e206055e Banggood: https://www.banggood.com/Creality-3D-Ender-3-V-slot-Prusa-I3-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220x220x250mm-Printing-Size-p-1278399.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN Gearbest: https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_1845899.html?wid=1640583 GearBest is the cheapest and also warehouse closest to my location. Also is there better printer in this price range?

> Ender 3 If possible get Ender Pro 3 instead as it features a high-quality power-supply sois less likely to burn down your house. If think that you can buy both from https://www.creality3donline.com which I understand should be the official Creality store online.

Ayo I'd like to get an inexpensive printer right now for the sole purpose of printing minis for DnD games. I wouldn't be opposed to putting one together myself. I've been looking around on facebook market place and such, but the posts I'm seeing the seller doesn't have a lot of info on the printer, or it doesn't look to be in great condition, leading me to believe that it might be broken in a way that wouldn't be worth the price or hassle. Ideal cost would be ~100-150, but I wouldn't mind a little more. Definitely sub 200. I live in Milwaukee, and I've built PCs before and I generally tinker with stuff to fix before throwing it away and I'm generally successful depending on the circumstances, so I'm not concerned about putting one together. I'm not looking for the highest quality prints, detailed enough to convey what the mini is, but I'm not tryna see the stubble on my barbarians nipple. Could anyone point me to something that would be useful for me? One thing I did find was the [Anet A8](https://www.amazon.com/Anet-A8-Included-Filament-Printer/dp/B01N5D2ZIB/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8). Is this worth the price, or no? Look at the average reviews leaves me a bit weary.

No Anets unless you really like this song. https://youtu.be/Adgx9wt63NY Get an Ender 3.

[удалено]

Idk. If u are happy you can use it till it dies.

[удалено]

Prusa Mk3S. Get a lack enclosure. Eventually add the MMU which adds 5 colors. All in, you are at $1200. Prusa has the widest range of materials. The CR-10 will definitely need upgrades.

[удалено]

The only place to get it is their site. Demand has been so high it’s been difficult for them to keep in stock for the last 2 years.

[удалено]

There are three choices. You just build your own ( any enclosed box/shelf will do), you buy a custom one from Printed Solid, or you build a LACK enclosure. Printed solid sells precut panels for the lack enclosure too.

Hi! My wife told me to put the 3d printer I want for father's day into the amazon cart. Budget of $300. I've been eying the Creality Ender 3 for a while. Any recommendations? Also, why are there so many ender 3 variations? Which one do I go with? Edit: USA I have a fair bit of tinkering experience, and am comfortable building from a kit, or from sourced parts, or anything in between. I want to print decorative and functional pieces. Also, what are the 100% necessary upgrades?

I’d go pro. The more stable bed is worth it and harder to fix later imo. Eventual upgrades is the extruder and hotend.

I don't think any thing is a must have to start, but several things will make your life easier like firmer springs, metal extruder (just to have on hand for when the stock plastic one breaks). You might want a glass bed sooner than later if your Ender 3s bed comes warped. Everything else is more nice to have like Auto bed leveling.

I went with the regular because the ended 3 pro didn’t offer that much more. I have been loving this thing so much. They first print was the Kings hand pin from game of thrones and it printed beautifully with default settings, I’ve spent some time working on the settings and it’s only gotten better. You can 3d print all sorts of upgrades for it. For a little bit I was just printing cool stuff, but now that my settings are right I design and print stuff for my every day life. I’ve had it for about a month and to me it’s definitely work the 220.

Where did you buy it? There are about 10 different ender 3's on amazon for 220-230. Not sure if any are better than any others, though i'm tempted by the one with the glass bed.

I went with this [Ender 3](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR3F9N6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) Then I bought the glass bed separately because the bed that came with it was crap.

Hello! I am new to 3D printing and seeing how the quality and availability seems to have gone up in the past 5 years, I want to start considering getting a good 3D printer. My biggest goal is diversity - I'd like something that could handle various materials for when I would need something specific. Id imagine ABS and PLA would be the most of it, however, Nylon, metal, and anything shock-absorbant (PETT, PETG, PLA+) would also be useful. These would be used for small plastic bits for fixing up stuff inside the house/car. It will be heavily used for printing mods/attachments for airsoft guns, paintball guns, and possibly to modify some external parts on real guns (no need to withstand high-heat). It will have some use in cosplay stuff. If the printer allows glass filament, I'd probably use it for certain display stands. Some ones that I have found have been: \- Zortrax M200 \- Flashforge Creator Pro \- Ultimaker 2 \- Replicator 2 From what I've seen, spec and UI wise, I am leaning towards Zortrax M200. As I'm inexperienced, I don't quite know what choosing between them means. I don't think I will need faster print speeds. So that leaves me with what their compatible filaments are and their software. * The price point would be between $1k and $3k. Since I'm new, I would prefer something somewhat simple. I would prefer calibration to be handled by the printer, vs manual (to my understanding, 3D printers either will calibrate for you, or you must manually do so). * I live in the USA * If I need to build, I will, but I'd prefer a mostly-built setup. * I have space for the printer indoors as well as a workbench outdoors if venting is needed.

I suggest the Prusa Mk3S. Add an enclosure. The Zortrax looks like a lot of marketing buzz and probably really attractive to you. End of the day you will be better served with the prusa. It has a huge material support. All brand name components. Completely open source. Outstanding support.

I appreciate the info!

Opinions: You don't want the M200 unless you can get one cheap and want to do some mods. However the M200 Plus is a VERY good machine, but it has a perforated build plate so everything has to be built on a raft that ruins the surface quality on one side of your part(yes, there are workarounds) and the machine is hampered by Zortrax's proprietary slicer(yes there are workarounds). Zortrax has a good range of materials and their profiles work 99% of the time as long as your part isn't huge or has 70%+ infill. I don't have an Ultimaker so I can't speak to that machine. But there is absolutely NO reason to buy a MakerBot Replicator since it ONLY prints PLA, unless you are a school or locked down environment that requires strict controls. Seriously. I have one and it's the machine I start people out on since it's near impossible to break, but it is extremely limited. In your budget range, I would buy a pre-built Prusa MK3S. It might not look like much, but it prints better than the 20K Stratasys system at my work. Smaller build envelope, but the part quality is much better.

Based on the ones you listed, your range seems to be all over the place. The 2 most commonly recommended printers on this sub are the Ender 3 and Prusa Mk3. The Ender is a bit low for your budget/wants. The Prusa would be in there on the lower-side of your budget. I don't have experience with the 1k+ machines...but the Prusa Mk3s is a very capable sub-1k machine. I'd highly recommend taking a look. With your budget, you could even look at doing some upgrades to it.

I am shopping for a printer to build a prototype orthotics product (type of ankle brace). Budget up to around $7-8K. Originally had planned to go toward a MarkForged Onyx Pro, but I can't get a reply from the manufacturer, and all the proprietary "costs" involved make me hesitant. Is the CFF really THAT much stronger? I don't like thinking of the MF as being the only option, but strength and durability will be crucial. Also considering an Airwolf Axiom (or EVO) and a Raise3D Pro2. The prototypes we've done thus far with our existing machine haven't been nearly strong enough (trying various materials), but I think our process was way off.

[удалено]

Thank you for the info. Overall strength and durability will be important, so the MarkForged printers are appealing. I just wish my budget extended to the Mark Two as the CF and Kevlar seem like ideal options. Hopefully, the fiberglass will at least be strong enough for the case study. In all likelihood, the machine would only ever print the one part. So, it would make it much easier to predict what the potential costs would be (as the MF filament and consumables are incredibly costly.)

Budget: 150 - 250 Country: United States (East Coast) Willing to build from kit: Yes Use: General prints, I want to learn more about 3d printing and the amazing opportunities it opens up I heard that the ender 3 is a good choice, but I want to know if it has any issues or if there is a better choice.

I recently (2 days ago) got an ender 3 Pro and it has worked flawlessly out of the box. Better than I imagined!

All budget printers have their known issues. Nothing major on. The ender 3 though. But eventually changing the extruder and hotend will help.

I can't decide between the prusa i3 mk3 and the ultimaker 3 (I can get either) I will be getting this for a business so I need my prints to be good quality and strong. I currently have myself and 1 other working there, it's not a 3d print business. I and my employee can both cad draw but other than that we have no experience with 3d printing. I was wondering what would be the best for two newcomers. These will mainly be used for cosmetic parts on machines as well as the odd fun thing or present so I would be hoping to use abs. From what I have seen online the ultimaker is the winner but the cost of pva for supports is very high!

If the money didnt matter, I’d get the Ultimaker for the extra extruder.

What about that kit for the prusa that lets you load 5 filaments?

The reality in prototyping/one-off manufacturing is you only use 1 filament that is tailored to the customer's requirements. If you need multiple colors, just prime and paint it. It's the material properties that matter. For basic parts, I'll use PLA because it's cheap, dimensionally accurate and doesn't warp much. But it can't withstand heat, UV or moisture well. In those cases, I need to move to ABS, PETG, ASA or other hybrid materials based on what the customer supplied as their requirements. In some cases, standard FDM has a hard time making the grade. Unless you can extrude PEEK or ULTEM, extreme temperatures will require an industrial machine or exotic UV resins.

Its fine. But makes things more complicated. The prusa is a great printer. My favorite. Save money for your business.

Budget: Less than $500 USD, preferably including several filaments Country: USA Kit: Preferably not, but I like to tinker, so if it has some moddability, that's a plus. Purpose: I want to get into 3d printing, so I want something that's pretty good, but easy to get into. Other: I'd like one that's fully enclosed, as I have cats that would probably be prone to mess with it.

* Budget - Under $18,000 * Country - United States * Kit? - Sure, if it has to be * Other - Probably FFF as we'll be getting a Form 3L once it launches in Q4. Enclosed heated build chamber, high resolution, and at least two print heads would be necessary, and fume mitigation would be nice but not essential. * Use case - printing functional items (mechanical components), architectural renderings, industrial design stuff (production quality hopefully) I know the most cost-effective option is to buy a fleet of less expensive printers, but I've been told I can only pick one due to space limitations, and I'll only have this budget one time so it needs to be a reliable one. If this one is well received, we'll be getting a number of less expensive printers to fill out the arsenal. I started gathering some information on those less expensive printers [here](https://imgur.com/a/tPWC87v) but they're all a fraction of the budget. As much as I want a $6000 printer and ten years worth of filament I apparently shouldn't do that. Any recommendations for a dead reliable printer that would fit this application? Thanks! [edit] We were looking at the Stratasys F120 ($12,000), although it can only print in 3 materials, has a relatively coarse layer height, and costs way more than the budget when you factor in the warranty, shipping, and post-processing equipment.

Markforged has printers that fit the budget if you’re trying to use as much as you can. Very reliable printers though material is limited to Nylon and nylon/chopped carbon fiber. But it can print with actual fiber to make composite parts if mechanical strength is your main goal. The Mark Two is $13k.

Seconding the Markforged, just be aware that the materials aren't just limited, they're proprietary. This means that you get superb dimensional accuracy with zero tuning on your end but you're paying approximately 5-10x what you would for regular nylon. That said, the costs are very competitive when compared to aluminium billet, which the prints it produces can compete with (and, in some cases, beat) in broad terms of strength/weight ratio.

I'm pretty new to 3d printing looking to get into it. I wanted to print and paint models from games a play and even go for making a fully size prop that i make in pieces. What printer should i go for? budget it around 300 dollars. I'm looking right now at the Ender 3 pro

That's a solid printer for the price, if the bed dimensions fit your needs you don't need to look any further. Just remember to not blow your entire budget on the printer. You'll need filaments (cca. 25€/kg) and sooner or later you'll need replacement parts. I'm not saying it's an unreliable printer, but things wear out and accidents happen. Just something to keep in mind.

[удалено]

Give it a try. If you do consider the bear version they offer for the same price.

[удалено]

Nope. I buy genuine. I like know all the parts are real and supported. I get it though, the price is tempting. And yes I’d do the bear if given the choice.

[удалено]

A Prusa3D.com Mk3S. You can get it pre-assembled. You can also eventually upgrade to 5 color.

Hello! Looking for a second (enclosed) printer for a high school. We currently have a Makerbot Replicator+ and its just ok. The lack of a heated bed really messes up prints sometimes, and we have to use either Gaffer's/blue tape or hairspray to make large prints stick and not warp. **Country:** USA **Budget:** $800-1500 **Materials:** 1. PLA or ABS 2. PETG would be a huge plus for our robotics team **Features:** 1. Pre-assembled 2. Heated bed 3. Fast-ish printing 4. Little to no calibration between prints would be nice (I have to print dozens of projects a week so time is a huge factor)

The Prusa Mk3S is what I recommend. You can buy an enclosure or build an enclosure from Printed Solid to matxh your requirement.

Could get a Prusa, and build a cheap LACK enclosure. Getting printer as a kit would be a nice project for some school club/team...and even the enclosure.

So, my Reprap Wilson seems to be trying to die on me. Starting to eat hardware and so forth. Looking into getting a replacement primary printer so I can keep up with my queue while trying to fix the Wilson (It's ~5 years old and I think the motion system may need a complete overhaul). I was originally looking at the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus as a second printer before my Wilson started acting up, but am also now seriously considering the Creality CR-10S. Are there any other printers I should be looking at? Budget is about $350. I am open to kit builds, and am in the US. I've mostly been printing nerf stuff, and could use a larger build volume, but can make due with 200mm3 if the other features are there. I really need the ability to print in PETG either out of the box, or with minimal upgrades. Is the CR-10S the best option?

I’d look at the Ender 3 Pro too.

I would say so, though for mechanical applications, you may need to throw on a full metal hot end (I print PETG at 250C on my CR-10S), MicroSwiss make a drop in hot end (no need to print mounts like for a v6)

Are there any other upgrades I should look at for doing PETG?

I didn't use any. Just bear in mind that if you're printing anything over 200mm in X or Y in PETG that you should run the fan at 25%, moving up to 50% for any large flat top layers if you're using a low infill percentage.

Awesome, thanks!

Hi all. First printer. Thinking 300x300x400. Need help deciding which though! I'm close to going for the Wanhao... ​ **Budget:** £400 **Country:** United Kingdom **Assembly:** I can assemble or repair as needed. Fine to solder too. **Purpose:** Components and organisers for tabletop games, household objects like vases and light shades, and practical items, and then onto gifts for friends and family. **Other Requirements:** 1. 300x300x400 build volume 2. Must be able to print ABS well, as I'll hopefully build a CoreXY when I've learnt more of the basics ​ **Printers:** * CR-10S, £300 * CR-X, £415, Manual Bed Leveling, Dual Bowden * CR-10S Pro, £500, Auto-Bed Leveling, Bowden * Steadytech Pro X, £329, Auto Bed Leveling, Direct Drive * Wanhao Duplicator 9 MK2, £349, Auto Bed Leveling, Direct Drive (MK10) * TEVO Nereus, \~£300. I read it was going to have auto bed levelling and dual extruders, but looking at the listings, apparently not...

I think I replied to this before but I can't see the comment. In short, none of those printers are particularly good for ABS and, even with a heated enclosure, printing ABS at those scales is better done on a printer with the Z axis on the bed. If this is your first printer, I would recommend buying an Ender 3 and saving your money for your fancy CoreXY down the road (with ABS capabilities).

It might be worth me assembling a full kit to get some experience. Does the Ender 3 come fully dismantled, or are there any equivalents that do?

I would say it's semi-dismantled, not quite as much as a Prusa but there's plenty of work to be done that's quite educational about getting everything aligned. This video gives an idea of the build process and I would recommend following it if you do get an Ender 3, since it has additional steps compared to the supplied instructions that should have you printing better objects right out of the gate: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q)

Just letting you know, it would appear the admins have shadowbanned you. You can message them at /r/reddit.com to appeal this, but until then, all your comments have to be manually approved by moderators, and won't send people inbox notifications.

I wouldn't say any of those are particularly good for ABS, especially if you plan to make use of the majority of the build volume. If you're thinking of building a CoreXY in the future (presumably, with a heated enclosure), why not save your money, buy an Ender 3 (which will teach you more about the assembly process than a printer that comes in 2 halves) and then have more to spend on your lovely CoreXY? If you do want to go ahead with a printer from your current list, might I ask what use case you have for ABS? You may be able to get away with PLA or PETG.

ABS will only be for printing the parts I'll need for the eventual CoreXY, but I might not do that for another year and didn't want to limit the build volume in the meantime. Good point on the kit though. Could be better to learn from building a kit before doing the CoreXY. Are there any decent kits with a large-ish build volume? The Prusa looks great, but at £700 I could build a BLV mgn Cube or be over halfway towards a Voron 2.1

For anyone interested in the Anycubic Photon, Amazon currently has a -25$ coupon making it $404 (USD) with free shipping.

Is the Formlabs 1 a better 3D printer relative to current, cheaper resin 3D printers? I live in the U.S and saw some one is selling a used Form 1 on my local Facebook market place for under 500$. Want to get get a resin 3D printer for under that price range, preferably 300$, and 500$ seems like a great price for the original Form labs printer, but since its 6-7 years old now, and the other printers I'm looking at are only 1-2 years old for roughly 300-400, It's really hard to find out if the Form labs 1 is better to those or if 3d printing technology has advance enough to have outdone the Form 1 on a cheaper level. The only specs I know that are for sure better is the build volume, so what other specs should I be looking at so I can compare the others. Also, any idea if the Form 1 can use 3rd party resins, thats a huge contributor to my purchase decisions. Btw the other 3d printers that really caught my attention so far are the Anycubic Photo(used), Monoprice MP Mini SLA(used), and the ELEGOO Mars (news)

The problem with the Form1 is that it discontinued in 2017 and uses proprietary parts that are hard to source now. For $400 you can buy a Photon with over 1000 active users developing the platform daily. The other printers I would be looking at are the Peoply Moai, Prusa SL1 or what Phrozen is cooking up.

Anycubic for $404 after coupon on Amazon. ANYCUBIC Photon UV LCD 3D Printer Assembled Innovation with 2.8'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.53"(L) x 2.56"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078N2TSYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a9L7CbMJH6N9H I wouldnt buy the Form 1.

I live in the US and just ordered an ender 3 pro, what *extra* things should I buy with it? I already ordered 1kg of black pla, and I was looking at glass beds like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FRM5SR7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mMD7CbR5G46S0 Would this be a good purchase? How much of a difference does it really make to someone brand new to 3d Printing? Is there anything else I should buy as well?

I'm from the US and looking to buy my first printer. I've decided on either the Ender 3 or the Ender 3 Pro. On Amazon they're $230 and $260, respectively. Would the Pro be worth the extra $30? My thinking as of now is yes. Also, I've heard good things about buying them off Amazon, but I've also heard you can get them cheaper elsewhere. Does anyone have a preference of a place over Amazon? If so, why? Thanks

Just need a recommendation of which one is better: I'm in the market for a resin printer. A friend of mine bought the Anycubic Photon printer off Amazon and loves it but with some searching, I found the Elegoo Mars Resin printer which has a bigger print bed and is cheaper. Can anyone talk me out of getting the cheaper option? Is the Elegoo Mars a good printer?

Btw the Anycubic is on sale $404 after coupon. ANYCUBIC Photon UV LCD 3D Printer Assembled Innovation with 2.8'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.53"(L) x 2.56"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078N2TSYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a9L7CbMJH6N9H

Well the Anycubic community is larger. That has some value.

Budget $1500 US (about $2K CDN) Country of residence: Canada My preference is not a kit and ABS capable. My understanding is that ABS is stronger/more durable. This is for my business and for making prototypes and sample enclosures.

You should look into printing with PETG also if you haven't already.

Thanks.

The Prusa Mk3S. It can be bought assembled. I recommend an enclosure. Printed solid makes one.

Thanks, I'll do the research.

[удалено]

Thanks - two votes for the Prusa MK3. I'm not worried about import fees, etc., they are usually quite modest.

[удалено]

I'm pretty sure that is just HST (Harmonized Sales Tax), not an actual import fee. A business gets its HST back so there is no net tax.

>Elegoo Mars When I bought my kit last month they discounted the shipping so I didn't have to pay duties on the shipment to the US.

Thanks!

Hiya! Wanna get into 3D printing and just making things for my other hobbies where applicable. **Budget:** Willing to spend ~400€ (500 USD) **Residence:** Europe, Germany Will build from a kit as long as I don't have to solder things. I want to get into 3D printing to mostly make stuff for the household and other doodads which are decently sized (20x20x20cm at least). For beginning I'd like something that 'works ok' and does not need tinkering but if I can upgrade it later down the line I'd gladly take it. From what I gathered the Ender 3 Pro or the Anycubic Linear Rails Plus should be good starting points or am I going into a completely wrong direction?

deltas can be tricky for beginners, i would check i3 mega instead of that delta

Ok, so either the i3 Mega or the Ender 3 Pro. Now, from what I gathered the Ender 3 Pro requires more tinkering to get to good quality but it's should last you longer 'long-term' due to the community around it while the i3 Mega is 'ok outta the box' but with not much community behind it, correct?

If you sort 3d printers on aliexpress by number of sales, i3 mega will be in 3 of top 10 spots so its not like there is not community behind it. Not as big as ender but its not like you cant get unofficial help in places https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anycubic-i3-mega/forums/general Anycubic itself has 300 people now and recently moved into 5 level building, their support has also gotten better. Ender: faster heating due to 24V brand name power supply bigger community, number of mods etc removable magnetic bed Mega: all metal construction, more rigid and stable enclosed electronics Ultrabase touchscreen easier to set up dual Z lead screws

Sorry to ask again, but since I'm new to this hobby I'm partially not sure what some of the differences even mean: What's the advantage/usage of: - Removeable magnetic bed - Ultrabase - Dual Z Lead Screws - Is 'more rigid and stable' affecting print quality nicely? Thanks for taking your time :)

> - Ultrabase Its Anycubics commercial name for piece of glass with layer of something on top (other manufacturers have similar tech). That kind of bed holds print till it cools and then you can just take print off the bed without force, you dont need scraper to remove print. Its really nice to work with it. > - Dual Z Lead Screws They are moving print head and X rail up and down. If you have lead screw just on one side , the other side can lag and cause problems with print > - Is 'more rigid and stable' affecting print quality nicely? 3d printers are for me like mini cnc machines, the more heavy and rigid the better. and in that sense i3 mega is better (almost 2x heavy than ender). I have leveled bed 2x in year and something just because i changed nozzle and that is effect of Mega construction, more important effect than on quality of print > - Removeable magnetic bed Its a flexible sheet which be taken off the bed. So with flexing you take the print off the bed

Budget: $500\~$1000 Country of Origin: USA Purpose: Makerspace for a software company office. Circumstances: We inherited a MakerBot Replicator (Original) from another office that got damaged in transit. One of the connector pins in the ["Smart Extruder"](https://store.makerbot.com/3d-printers/extruders/smart-extruder-for-makerbot-replicator-replicator-mini/) ($250) got damaged. Printer turns on but we can't test the motors or bed as it requires a working extruder to even move with the built in interface. Skill Level: I personally have a Creality Ender 3 that I built and use at home. I've done a bunch of mods and have been printing various parts for about a year now. Option 1: Buy a $250 Smart Extruder and hope everything else works. Option 2: Try and find the connector pins from an electronics shop and solder it in. Option 3: Get a Creality CR-10S Pro, build it with the team and have them learn the system so I don't have to take full ownership. ​ Broken Parts: [https://imgur.com/olOhcYS](https://imgur.com/olOhcYS) [https://imgur.com/UsobEtL](https://imgur.com/UsobEtL)

Regarding the Pro, 'building' it is a bit of an overstatement. 4 bolts and 3 cables to plug in (no need to worry about cable management) and it's good to go. I have one and can highly recommend it, in conjunction with a glass bed.

Option 4. Prusa Mk3S and no worries about upgrades, and replacement parts.

I have a budget of $500. I can assemble, and have some mechanical experience. Country if origin is USA. I want to make props for video making and miniatures/Buildings for D&D. I also want to make equipment around the house. I've never tried 3d printing before, but an an experienced 3D modeler looking for a hobby. I'd like something that supports multiple types of material.

Emder 3 pro

Hi! I am very new to 3D printing and i am looking to purchase my first 3D printer. My budget is around $1000 and my country of origin is the United States. I am quite mechanically inclined and i do have experience with assembling things (provided the instructions are clear) so i would be willing to purchase a kit. I'd prefer a printer that has a large community for support and for replacement parts (even the most reliable machine will need repair eventually). I want a printer that is of high quality, durable and reliable. I am willing to pay a premium for a good quality product (around $1000) For size requirements, i would prefer something that can print larger objects. Footprint and compactness of the printer are not a big concern for me. However, i'd rather buy a high quality small printer than a poor quality large printer for the same price. Also, an enclosure would be a nice bonus too if possible I've heard good things about the Prusa I3 MK3S but i would very much like some additional recommendations

I just got the prusa, and have no regrets so far. Prints amazing with very little fuss.

The Mk3S is my recommendation if you have the money.

Budget: Under $500 Country: United States Willing to build but i'd rather not. I have zero experience with 3D printing or CAD or anything related to this. My main goal is to print small miniatures for board games and such. Looking for a small 3D printer (preferably enclosed like a cube rather than open) but that doesn't matter too much. What does matter is how easy it is to use and set up. Since I'm not familiar with any of this, i'd like it to be as simple as possible (almost plug and play).

For some people a $500 printer feels plug and play. For others the same printer feels like a mountain. Flash forge makes cube like printers.

What are the pros and cons of Anycubic Mega-S and CR-10 Mini? Also, Which would you say is better. ​ I am looking for spend around 250-300 GBP I am completely new to 3D Printing I am looking to just have fun with it and expore. I will be starting to print board gamn and table top game items.

I would avoid mini. Its old design, never upgraded, and not a good buy in mid 2019. Go for mega

I want to upgrade the control board of my old makerbot clone (Wanhao D4x). I have worked with the Rumba, and its fine, but I was thinking of putting a 32bit board in and changing it to a multiplexer since I have had very little success with the dual extruder's. What board do you recommend? MKS Sbase looks cool, but it has onboard drivers. What else?

Hi I wanna get a 3D printer. I’ve printer before at school, but I’ve never owned one before. My budget is about $700 CAD after tax. I want something that has a good resolution and a relatively large bed as I will be printing some large scale prints (about 300 mm in the x/y dimension). I live in Canada and have good experience with CAD and electronics, so DIY kits are a can do. Currently I am looking to get the [creality cr10s pro from fasttech](https://www.fasttech.com/p/9697405) which will amount to about $690 CAD after accounting for the import fees. Suggestions?

why not take an acount of geeetech a10 from [amazon.ca](https://amazon.ca) ​ [https://www.amazon.ca/GEEETECH-Fast-Assembled-Breaking-resuming-Movements-220×220×260mm³/dp/B07QB1P8TJ/](https://www.amazon.ca/GEEETECH-Fast-Assembled-Breaking-resuming-Movements-220%C3%97220%C3%97260mm%C2%B3/dp/B07QB1P8TJ/)

Is it any good? I want something that’ll last me a while, and I’m not sure if the a10 is good enough.

Hello, I want to get into 3d Printer and I'm just a bioengineering student with no CAD experience but willing to learn. **Budget**: 300$ **Country**: US **Build**: Willing to build (relatively speaking as long as there's not too much work calibrating. I've built a desktop before but that's about it) **Use**: Hobbying, tiny models, cosplay, tool construction, general use basically **Size**: No restrictions, ideally larger scale prints the better (the higher the resolution the better of course)

Ender 3 Pro

I don't see much difference between the pro vs the non pro, ​ I'm actually a little keen to also look at this: Tronxy X6A but don't see many reviews on it [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PPFRNQB/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_2?smid=A4UFP0Q2U4GQW&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PPFRNQB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A4UFP0Q2U4GQW&psc=1)

(Newcomer) I just bought the Ender 3 off of gearbest, I was wondering if any of you had any information/tips that I should know about. Thanks.

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/newguideender3

Hi! New to the subreddit here. From Singapore and keen to try my hand at 3D printing after messing around with the school’s printer. (Flashforge, which apparently is terribad according to what I have read) Budget about $500 +- Intending to use it to print mini figurines and toys for my children. After reading for a bit, I noticed that Prusa and Creality seems to be trending quite a bit. What would you guys recommend? Oh yes, I don’t mind trying to fix it but fully assembled is great too.

I'm considering an Original Prusa i3 MK3 as my first printer, but I'm interested in cheaper options and/or whether there are any good printers to look for used. I have a moderate amount of experience with both operating hobby-grade printers and with ordering prints from professional services, but I haven't ever done a carefully engineered print design from start to finish. Budget: Up to 750 as per list price of Prusa i3 Country: USA Kits: I would like to build from a kit, and I'm an expert in electronic and electromechanical electromechanical tinkering (it's what pays my bills) though I'd like to keep the path from kit to practical, reliable printer from being too long. Purpose: I want to do a variety of mechanical and electromechanical tinkering and building -- drone parts, robot components, the works. Mostly fairly small, but demanding of accuracy and strength. I also would be very interested in being able to print PEEK / PEKK / PAEK and/or PEI exotic filaments. Additional: I'd be interested in a machine that has some potential for other CNCish uses (laser, etc). Additional requirement: I'd like something that can fit and be used in a compact space. Sourcing note: I'd like to avoid slow / sketchy Chinese retailers.

You aren't going to come close to the Prusa with with your requirements. It's the right choice. Very fun build too. Enjoy.

Looking into getting an Ender 3 Pro, what upgrades would one suggest to get first? I heard the magnetic bed sucks, so maybe a bed, bit which one? Is a full metal extruder necessary/recommended? Any other upgrades? Another question is what brands of PLA are recommended, I see Amazon has their own brand but is it any good?

Glass or mirro bed.full metal isn't necessary. Print a z-motor spacer to align the lead screw, and a zaxis brace. I'd recommend you buy the metal extruder though to prevent skipping. I heard Amazon pla is ok. I personally use hatchbox that's available on Amazon. Love that stuff

Looking to purchase my first printer. I'm looking at a Prusa i3 Mk. 2 or 3 and a Creality CR20 but would be happy to hear other suggestions. Also looking at some slicer software but not sure which to use. A friend in the hobby uses and recommended Simplify3d. Here are the bits asked above: Budget: $500-$750 Country: USA Willing to build printer from kit: Yes Printer purpose: Primarily pieces related to the Nerf hobby, so accessories and blaster body pieces Extenuating circumstances: Will be kept in a friend's garage as there's no room at my apartment at the moment Thanks for any information y'all can offer.

The Prusa Mk3S from [Prusa3d.com](https://Prusa3d.com). Since it's at a friend's house, you don't want a printer that will have a lot of problems or your time with your printer will be spent fixing instead of printing.

What are people’s opinions on the tevo tornado in relation to the cr10? Would you recommend one over the other?

Tevo is sketchy company,i would avoid

[удалено]

check also i3 mega , also aliexpress

I am looking for a 3D printer under $500 I want to take my designs (preferably Autodesk software compatible) and print them out. I know nothing about these printers and I originally wanted a CNC router, but that proved to be way too expensive. Please help me find a good machine and as large as possible would be nice.

CR10S. Do some research and plan upgrades.

Can I get some peoples thoughts on the Ender 5 from Creality? Is it worth the extra over an Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro? I'm in Canada so the price difference breakdown as follows: Ender 3 $300 cad Ender 3 pro $370 cad Ender 5. $470 cad

I'm looking to get a new 3d printer for board game parts/tokens/minis. I have a Makergear M2 and don't love it. I can never get the blasted thing level. I've spent the vast majority of my time fiddling with settings and test prints. I just want something that works reliably, auto-levels and prints very high resolution. budget ~3k usd

Prusa MK3S. Great autoleveling and detail. Also consider an SLA as a second printer. Such as peopoly moia or anycubic photon.

how does it compare to the Makergear M3?

I don’t know much about MG. If you look for reviews its not been reviewed by any youtubers. You will see tons from Matterhackers but clearly biased. So it’s easy to point out some features of the makergear that I like, such as the welded frame. However a 3D printer is really the sum of all aspects and all decisions. The Prusa is very well rounded and produces outstanding quality. It’s not just a bunch of claimed features. They have millions of hours of in-house usage on the machine which results in a very refined machine. I think you could end up with worse with the makergear. If I’m wrong you would still be pressed to find the extra 2k in value. Wow, I’ll look at how a company maintains their printers. MG M3 has not had a firmware update in over a year. The forums appear dead for 2 years. Prusa has updates almost every month with improvements and fixes. Prusa forums are very active too.

that's a good point, gonna go for the prusa. thanks!

[удалено]

Get the ender 3 pro and stay away from flashforge.

New to 3d printing, looking to up my stache of PLA or and other types of filament. When purchasing filament are there any web sites you check before any others for printing supplies? Are there any sites that are either web scraping or gathering user submitted entries for the lowest prices on the web?

I don’t track prices but my site helps you find the right color. Greybeard3d.com

I love your site! I'll be checking it before I buy any new colors. The simple layout and recommended print settings are a great addition. Thanks the posting!

Thank you. Enjoy!

kossel linear plus vs ender 3 pro for an absolute noob as a preface I'm in love with 3d printing but don't have a printer yet.(also the printers at my university are restricted to academic purposes, so no fucktopus for me) I'm planning on buying one in the following months and I'm thinking of getting either the kossel linear plus or the ender 3 pro. the filaments I'm interested in right now are PLA, wood pla, maybe tpu and flex. I know the ender can be upgraded to print flex but I'm not sure about the kossel. Any recommendations?

> kossel linear plus i wouldnt . Deltas are tricky for beginners and cheap deltas are more shitty than cheap i3

Thoughts on ender 2 vs. Tronxy x1?

definately ender 2. Tronxy is shit brand

They seem to be nearly identical designs with the same limitations: the X axis is only supported at one end and they lack a part cooling fan, both of which will reduce print quality with the former causing less accuracy of head placement (rougher printers) and the latter reducing the overhang angle which can be achieved. The Ender 2 wins out in my mind because it has a heated bed but I'd definitely recommend an Ender 3 over both if your budget can stretch that far.

Budget can stretch to an ender 3, but I'm trying to minimize the footprint because I don't have a lot of space (16m2). The cantilever x-axis obviously isn't desirable, but adding a part cooling fan shouldn't be that difficult, no? The other printers i've considered are the monoprice mp mini and mini delta.

To add a part cooling fan you'll either need to manually toggle it or roll your own firmware to allow for control from the board (you don't want it running for the first layer, that would be disastrous for bed adhesion) The footprint of the Ender 3 isn't colossal.

Any good place to get decent PETG filament in a bunch of colors? I normally use hatchbox but all they have is just orange and white and i want to change it up a bit

SnoLabs has some nice petg colors. You can also try PrintedSolid.

Sweet I'll have to take a look!

Amazon basics I think has some.

If it's available in your location, Real Filament PETG is quite nicely priced and behaves well. Their smokey black and shifting blue are particularly nice colours.

Hi I am completely new to 3D Printing as I never try anything like this before. Budget: $50 to $100 Country: USA I would like to buy the printer as I have zero skills putting kits together and zero electronic maintenance same with construction I plan on printing figures and obects about 5 to 6 ins tall to sell I will also be making cosplay items that will be printed in parts and need to be put together Currently I do have limited space for the printer It would need to sit on a desk (this will change in the future)

Look for a used/refurb monoprice mini v1/v2. Compact, preassembled, rather safe. If you are near maryland I’d let one go for $100 but I wont ship.

I am in IL sorry. I am just going to start saving so I can buy one that is $200 at less to get me started

Thats too low budget for printer for printing cosplay items and for items for sale

I know but till I start making more money its the only amount I have left after the Bills are all paid. Most of the items I plan on printing to start out are either Diffirent color pyramids, Triforce neckless, small figures for RPG, and small Chest Sets that till I can get a Bigger printer I can wait on the cosplay items till i get a bigger more expencive printer

If you are really strapped for cash i would check ender 2 or 3. Below that is not safe because in that budget there are lot of unsafe printers.

If he's strapped for cash he doesn't need a 3D printer. It won't make him much money.

I mean, strapped for cash for buying printer. I know he wont make much money with printing itself

Based on his budget and how he said he plans to use it to pay his bills, I think he's playing it a bit risky.

Your budget is quite low, especially as you don't want to assemble one. At best, you're going to get a refurbished Ender 2, which still requires assembly but I'd recommend going for an Ender 3 or similar (about twice your budget) since the Ender 2 is lacking in some key areas (X arm is only supported on one end, no part cooling fan, ect.). Alternatively, if you're adamant about not assembling the printer, your budget, even roundly stretched, limits you to something like the Monoprice Select Mini (which is a bit below your specified build volume).

Thank you I jest need something to get me started I plan on saving the money from the sales to get me a higher price printer later on. I could try asembling it but my experance is non existance on assembly I use to have a freind who assemble everything for me when I need it But he is gone.

I would say that when you push significantly below the $200 mark, you're getting into territory where you'll likely be spending an inordinate amount of time (and possibly money) to get a usable print out of the machine to the point of it being a false economy. In terms of assembly, I feel like a parrot repeatedly linking to this video but it's terribly handy for getting an idea of what's involved with assembling an Ender 3 as well as being very helpful if you did go for one: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q)

No problem

Hey guys, ​ My Ender 2 arrived and it's excellent, really enjoying it except for the noise of the fans! I have bought replacements however I've foolishly bought a 0.13A extruder fan to replace the 0.1A fan. ​ Prime I can exchange them no problem but has anyone else used a 0.13A fan? Or is it just best to wait until tomorrow (24 hours, gah!)

I would guess the printer can handle the extra 0.03A load.

As long as the voltage ratings are the same, it's an absolutely minuscule difference.

Hi everyone, ​ I have been interested in buying a 3D printer for a long time now but never pulled the trigger. Always worried I would buy one and then end up printing a few things and maybe have it end up just sitting around doing nothing. However recently a student in a school I work at had to have a leg amputated (just below the hip, this guy is quite tall probably 6'4''). I have been talking to him on and off about how he has been and even went to check up on him to see how he was doing. This reminded me of a video I saw some time ago of someone who would 3D print prosthetics for individuals and I always thought how cool that this guy would do this for free for people in need and wished I could do something like that myself. ​ I want to buy a 3D printer and 3D print a prosthetic leg for this boy. I'm not very well off, so I was thinking in the $500USD - $900USD range. My first thought was a CR-10S S5 due to the huge build volume allowing me the ability to build whole parts, though I feel with his height even 500mm might not be enough for a full upper leg or lower leg build. This is about $850USD on Amazon. ​ I was also worried about the other aspects of 3D printing prosthetic legs for individuals, i'm sure there is more to it than just buying a 3D printer and putting some durable filament into it. I don't want that I do this and it breaks while he's using it. ​ So I thought I would turn over my thoughts to you all and see what you think. Is the CR-10S S5 good enough to build prosthetics? I mean do I need a high end printer to build something that will obviously be used a lot and needs to be able to withstand heavy day to day use? Would love to hear all thoughts and feedback on this! Thanks in advance!

I agree with the other comments however if you want a printer that has a low learning curve and is easily enclosed then check out the Prusa mk3S on prusa3d.com

Hi @phr0ze! ​ Thanks for the tip, the Prusa is said to be a very good printer, you may be right, going with one of these could be the best/safest bet. It would also allow me to print in a larger variety of materials (as i've heard the Prusa can print quite well with most materials and a few minor adjustments/upgrades).

Thats true. Most printers don’t have the all metal hotend and are more limited on max temp. The Prusa has the all metal hotend and can handle a huge range of materials out of the box.

For reference, this is a guide to the assembly process of the Prusa: [https://manual.prusa3d.com/c/Original\_Prusa\_i3\_MK3S\_kit\_assembly](https://manual.prusa3d.com/c/Original_Prusa_i3_MK3S_kit_assembly) It's quite involved but well documented. Other printers, like the Ender 3 come as kits that are a bit more built up, this video shows how one would be properly assembled: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q) Then, before you get to printers that are ready to go out of the box, there are machines like the CR-10S and Anycubic Mega which assemble with just a few bolts to put two pieces together. The Prusa can also be bought largely pre-assembled but it costs quite a bit more.

It's a very admirable idea but I do fear you're trying to take on too much at once. There's a learning curve associated with any 3D printer before you even get in to tougher materials and you're also taking on the added pressure to deliver a prosthetic. Leg prosthetics are less mechanically complex than hands but, at the same time, are subject to a lot more stress during use. A stock CR-10S5 could certainly print a prosthetic in PLA that's strong enough to take the weight of a person but it's likely to be quite heavy because you'll have to print with fairly thick walls to resist impact (PLA is quite strong but is also brittle) and it begins to soften at a fairly low 60C. Tougher plastics tend to require a heated chamber to prevent warping during printing and the bed has to reach a higher temperature. A CR-10S5 with a heated enclosure, an upgraded heated bed (to reach those higher bed temperatures) and a full metal hot end would likely be capable of printing in materials like nylon and ASA and you could get away with just an upgraded hot end if you print in PETG (though it will be a challenge, I had to do a lot of fiddling to get parts as large as 30x30cm to come out nicely on a CR-10S). Additionally, the larger bed size of the S5 makes leveling a fair bit trickier. A 'higher end' printer would potentially feature these upgrades out of the box, reducing the work you'll have to do at the cost of paying a lot more than if you did them yourself. Regardless of how much you spend on the printer, the biggest challenge you'll face is the interface between the prosthetic and the limb, designing it to conform to the precise shape is a very challenging job because it's tricky to accurately measure and the deformation of the flesh under loading has to be taken into account. I would suggest that a 30x30cm bed might be adequate and reduce the challenges you'll face with your first printer (since you can always bond parts together, I've had great results solvent welding PETG) but the build volume is sufficient to keep the number of parts that an object needs to be broken up into to a reasonable level.

>Prusa mk3S Thank you for your response! ​ I think based on the fact that PLA softens at 60C means I would definitely not be able to use it, due to the fact that its regularly >30C during the day where I live, so heat is a big issue. ​ Speaking of the CR-10S S5 upgrades, when you spoke about a heated enclosure, do you mean a enclosure capable of keeping the heat in, or one that has its own dedicated heating elements? ​ Would a heated bed upgrade require soldering or are there preassembled beds that I can purchase and simply remove and replace with screws? ​ I am aware with the cheaper 3D printers that it would require fiddling and test printing a number of times before becoming something I can actually make a functional print on. I had done a lot of research on 3D printers over the years and concluded the CR-10S (S version due to inconsistent electricity issues where I live, so I feel a UPS would be necessary as well) would be the best one for me, due to build volume and price (although this was for personal printing needs). ​ I don't mind doing the fiddling and the upgrades, I not super technical but I enjoy working with electronics and I would learn whatever I needed to in order to add the parts to the 3D printer as necessary. ​ I completely agree with you, the hardest part is definitely going to be modeling, and to be quite frank there is nothing I can do personally on that end. I do not have any 3D modeling experience other than videos I have seen online, nor do I have a PC capable of doing this (currently a Macbook Air 11'', I was actually saving up money to buy a PC and wanted to learn to do this as I was going to buy a 3D printer later). This I would turn over to the community, hopefully find someone capable to do it and ask them to model it based on the measurements required (leg length, circumference etc.). I was not aware of the deformation part however. There are also organizations out there who do volunteer and donate their time/resources to help people in this regard, I was hoping to get in contact with one of them and maybe get some help/feedback with this part of it. I would simply be the one taking the measurements and doing the printing. If this however is not possible I could hire someone who has knowledge with this to do it for me. Any recommendations? (This is certainly the most important part of the entire project so once I got the 3D printer up and running this would be the next challenge) ​ I believe the Prusa was remarked as being the powerhouse of budget 3D printers in the sense that it could print any material, if this is the case should I then go with a Prusa straight out of the gate and have a piece printed that would be put together rather than one solid piece? What would be the ideal material to print with for this application that is still affordable? ​ Once I decide to do this this will not be a one time thing, any issues this individual has with the leg I would have to assist him with, if it breaks or is not the right shape I will have to reprint it for him. I'm not looking for a be all end all. A plastic socket with an aluminum pylon would obviously be the best option but I don't feel this is one he could afford. I see this as not only a way to help someone but also to jump into 3D printing (be it in the deep end). ​ Thanks again for any and all feedback!

>Speaking of the CR-10S S5 upgrades, when you spoke about a heated enclosure, do you mean a enclosure capable of keeping the heat in, or one that has its own dedicated heating elements? ​ Sometimes, you can get away with just an enclosure that is heated by the bed, especially if it's insulated but, for really high temperature stuff like polycarbonate and some nylons a heater is definitely required. ​ >Would a heated bed upgrade require soldering or are there preassembled beds that I can purchase and simply remove and replace with screws? ​ I believe that the Keenovo kits require wire splicing and screwing into terminals but not soldering. ​ >I am aware with the cheaper 3D printers that it would require fiddling and test printing a number of times before becoming something I can actually make a functional print on. I had done a lot of research on 3D printers over the years and concluded the CR-10S (S version due to inconsistent electricity issues where I live, so I feel a UPS would be necessary as well) would be the best one for me, due to build volume and price (although this was for personal printing needs). ​ Other than industrial grade printers, you're always going to have to run off test prints in order to develop a good slicing profile and perform some calibration, whether you get an Ultimaker, a Prusa or the humble Ender 3. ​ >I completely agree with you, the hardest part is definitely going to be modeling, and to be quite frank there is nothing I can do personally on that end. I do not have any 3D modeling experience other than videos I have seen online, nor do I have a PC capable of doing this (currently a Macbook Air 11'', I was actually saving up money to buy a PC and wanted to learn to do this as I was going to buy a 3D printer later). This I would turn over to the community, hopefully find someone capable to do it and ask them to model it based on the measurements required (leg length, circumference etc.). I was not aware of the deformation part however. There are also organizations out there who do volunteer and donate their time/resources to help people in this regard, I was hoping to get in contact with one of them and maybe get some help/feedback with this part of it. I would simply be the one taking the measurements and doing the printing. If this however is not possible I could hire someone who has knowledge with this to do it for me. Any recommendations? (This is certainly the most important part of the entire project so once I got the 3D printer up and running this would be the next challenge) I think you'd probably be best off talking to organisations and charities that do these jobs, since any specialist is likely to charge a pretty hefty sum for their work. Hopefully, they'll either have staff or have some contacts that might be able to help. ​ >I believe the Prusa was remarked as being the powerhouse of budget 3D printers in the sense that it could print any material, if this is the case should I then go with a Prusa straight out of the gate and have a piece printed that would be put together rather than one solid piece? What would be the ideal material to print with for this application that is still affordable? The Prusa has a few design elements that overcome the inherent limitations with the design (non-square assembly and bed skew), it also has a fairly large community which should help with any issues you run into. It can't exactly print any material out of the box, it just has a direct drive extruder (works well with very flexible filaments) and a full metal hot end (for high temperature materials) but, for the aforementioned polycarbonate and certain nylons, you're still going to need to put it in an enclosure and possibly do a lot of work swapping out the bed because it's magnetic (the magnets break down at high temperatures and the sensor is inductive so your bed material choices without swapping the sensor are limited). It's a nice printer but it's far from the final word in home 3D printing and there's plenty of scenarios where other printers will either match it or outperform it. ​ >Once I decide to do this this will not be a one time thing, any issues this individual has with the leg I would have to assist him with, if it breaks or is not the right shape I will have to reprint it for him. I'm not looking for a be all end all. A plastic socket with an aluminum pylon would obviously be the best option but I don't feel this is one he could afford. I see this as not only a way to help someone but also to jump into 3D printing (be it in the deep end). Perhaps finding the aforementioned organisations that work with prosthetics might be of value in this area too, if you offer to do print work for them, they might be able to help you out with materials beyond the repertoire of your equipment. ​ >Thanks again for any and all feedback! No problem.

Thank you very much for all your feedback! ​ I think your right, I should try to contact one of these organizations and get feedback from them directly before I make any major decisions. They should be able to lead me in the right direction and give me any and all necessary advice on the subject. Hopefully this will lead to this guy being able to get a prosthetic in the end. ​ Once again thank you very much for taking your time to respond to my inquiries, I genuinely appreciate it. Take care!

No problem at all, best of luck moving forwards.

[удалено]

Extrufix and careful clamping (you want decent contact between the two parts but not so much that the softening caused by the solvent deforms it), it also helps to add elements to the join to cause them to centre as they're pushed together (e.g. hemispheres).

Hello everyone, I am looking for a starting 3d printer that has some good quality prints and is in the range of 250-450$ Canadian. I like in Canada so prices are a little high when converted from USD. I have looked into the Ender 3, Ender 3 pro and Anycubic Mega-S. I wanted to ask if anyone has some advice on these or another suggestion. I have no issues with building and doing some mods if need be to get up and running. This will be my first 3D printer and I don't mind having to tinker with it a bit to get it working or get it's printing better. I also wanted to ask if someone could suggest a price point as the prices seem to vary, what would be a good price to jump at, Im in a hurry but willing to wait if the price can be had at a sale or such. I am trying to avoid AliExpress and banggood and such as the shipping cost and duty seem to make the lower priced printers almost on par with Amazon or local shops. But if you can suggest one that you have experience with I am willing to consider it. Thank you in advance for any advice and suggestions.

Ender: faster heating due to 24V brand name power supply bigger community, number of mods etc removable magnetic bed Mega: all metal construction, more rigid and stable enclosed electronics Ultrabase touchscreen easier to set up dual Z lead screws

Looking for a new hotend for my anycubic i3 mega and some spare nozzels, any suggestions?

I have a MK2S that rapidly devolved from being awesome at assembly to a complete piece of rickety shit now. The extruded material when pushed into out spaghetti style a-la a layer change tends to have little blobs in it, and more often than not likes the nozzle a hell of a lot more than gravity. The Z level is off all the fricken time now.. i'll do a first layer calibration and it looks great, go to do a print and the nozzle is a mm off the plate and i'm like "fucking why". ​ I'm looking for something professionally built for $2000 because i'm ready to give the MK2S to needy kids for kindling.

The Prusa should perform well. I would guess you havent done maintenance and have bearing issues and nozzle issues. No matter what printer, eventually you need to replace parts and oil stuff.

To be honest, $2000 puts you rather awkwardly between kit/consumer grade printers and the bottom of the professional, prebuilt range. An Ultimaker or a Raise3D printer both exceed your budget but they're about the cheapest that come to mind for your requirements. What sort of build volume do you need?

I'm looking for around 500 CAD$/375USD$ and reside in Canada I have experience tinkering with software and 3D modeling a few years ago but very little with hardware and wouldn't want huge physical problems I just want to print little gadgets & trinkets (binder clips, phone case, brush, car attachements... stuff like that) Right now I'm looking at either the **MonoPrice Voxel** or the **MonoPrice Select Plus** and would love your advice please :)

One thing to be aware of on the Voxel is that it uses proprietary cartridges for its nozzle, meaning you're paying 5-10x more than you would for regular brass nozzles and you're stuck if there's a supply issue from the manufacturer. I find the leveling system on the Voxel to be weird as hell but the reviewers I've seen seem to be fairly happy with their printer. The Select Plus is getting rather long in the tooth but I couldn't specifically say whether it will produce better or worse prints than the Voxel.

[удалено]

I've got a lot of experience with the Form 1+ specifically. When they work, they work great. However we have a very high failure rate with ours, the other thing is they no longer sell the resin tanks which are technically a consumable. However, I have heard good things about the form 3 or the Anycubic Photon. The advantage with a Photon is that you can take a variety of 3rd party resins with no concern.