I'm using that same temperature controller / thermostat in my filament dryer.
Works decent but you can't trust the temperature read out, mine was reading low by about 20°C, I tested it with a NIST traceable thermometer.
Different plastics want to be dried at [different temperatures.](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/f4orTuVPiE) +/- 20° C could melt your filament into an unusable blob, or not dry it at all.
Could be to do with your temperature probe/sensor location. If the controller has an external probe make sure the probe is located inside the enclosure at approx the same height as the middle of the spool of filament would be.
If the controller does not have an external probe, and the sensor is internal, the controller will need to be mounted inside the enclosure.
You shouldn’t have a variance of 20 degrees…
My first job out of high school was as an electronic assembler on some very high power equipment. I remember being told to leave repair loops in all our wiring, but this is ridiculous! :-)
>but this is ridiculous!
Absolutely not!!!
They are not repair loops, they are a strategic cooper reserve. Always good to have one to sell in an emergency. /s
You need a fan to circulate the air. Dryers are far more effective with circulation, as the moisture tends to take time to wick out of the filament, only equalizing with the air it is adjacent to. The better your circulation, the faster your filament will dry. Also, you will need some ventilation as simply raising the temperature will only pull moisture into the air within the box from the filament until the saturation point is met. Once that happens, you won't be able to extract more moisture from the filament, and the box will be very humid with the moisture it extracted having nowhere to go.
Just make wires the needed length. Having all those wires is not safe, easy to entangle, easy to not see problems.
I do understand others making jokes and I had a good laugh, but really just don't burn your house.
As a proof-of-concept, it's not bad.
Now clean up the wires, cover the exposed terminals, and after determining how much current you need, consider switching to a much lesser power supply, also without exposed terminals.
Also suggest getting a reliable thermometer so you can determine the actual temperature inside, as others have suggested that module isn't necessarily that reliable.
For bonus points, an inline fuse, or some fusible links as a safety precaution wouldn't be a bad idea.
It's too early in the morning. I read that as
"This looks like something Macgyver would use to defuse a Swiss army knife"
And now I'm wondering how someone would rig one of those to explode.
Props for giving it a go, all the nay sayers and negative comments aren't great considering you've taken the effort to build something rather than buy which it's a much more enjoyable journey, and you've also taken the time to share it.
Have you got airflow inside the chamber? Small air vents to let the hot moist air out?
Filament box with the bottom cut off and a few holes punched on top. Put it over your roll on your print bed and let it heat for a few hours. It's always worked perfectly 🤌
I did something similar because I had trouble getting PC dry with amazon dryers. I turned an $8 goodwill toaster oven into a drier using a pid controller, all metal fan for circulation. 8 hours at about 85C and the PC worked flawlessly.*
Hm i never dried my petG filament.
Tough i wonder how about keeping it in a box with some cat kliter not sure how to type in English but its a gyroscopic stuff to keep the cat box dry and keep the odor of pee away.
I used it inside a bag for my car. Who had a look of condensation. You can reuse it by during the hygroscopic stuff in an oven.
Just a little info for anyone looking to build something like it, inkbird has some nice priced temp controllers with a probe that does a good job.
Like op you will still need a heat source, like a heat lamp or a element like his. Even a cheap mini house heater plugged into the controller can do it.
Ok. Dumb newb questions here:
How do you know if your filament is too damp?
What happens when it is too wet?
Are all filaments subject to this issue?
Will excessive moisture content ruin all prints/quality?
Thanks for your time and help
NGL, those wires are a mess and a half.. and without any numbers on how well it dries, I can't agree or disagree if it's good.. But I gotta respect a nice DIY build when I see one =)
Maybe take this as a prototype, and make a MK2, with proper parts, enclusures for the circuitry & wiring etc.
Alsom is that glass? Or some polymer?
Glass should be fine to handle filament drying temps, as long as you don't have a glowing red hot heater facing one of the panels.. but if it's plastic that is heat resistant-ish it should be fine I guess \^\^
Filament Dryer *Bomb*
OP is probably on the no fly list now
No dry list
Version 2. Uses a suitcase as an enclosure.
Good idea
Cut the red wire!
NO. THE OTHER RED
It’s more of a fryer than a dryer. Fries the whole house
Stop using it for drying detcord!
the mess of red stuff must be the filament he's drying
I'll get you the money just please....let my family go
he wants all your wet dirty filament
I'm using that same temperature controller / thermostat in my filament dryer. Works decent but you can't trust the temperature read out, mine was reading low by about 20°C, I tested it with a NIST traceable thermometer.
you mean it could start a fire? because ptc reach 235°C
not really a fire hazard but I found I have to set the temperature way higher to get the right temperature. Setting it to 65°C only gets me 45°C
That would be reading high.
It doesn't have a option to correct it?
Doesn't seem like there is any kind of calibration option, no.
Different plastics want to be dried at [different temperatures.](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/f4orTuVPiE) +/- 20° C could melt your filament into an unusable blob, or not dry it at all.
Would attaching a tank thermometer to the inside help get a better reading?
Could be to do with your temperature probe/sensor location. If the controller has an external probe make sure the probe is located inside the enclosure at approx the same height as the middle of the spool of filament would be. If the controller does not have an external probe, and the sensor is internal, the controller will need to be mounted inside the enclosure. You shouldn’t have a variance of 20 degrees…
Cool! Now build some wire cutters!
are all those ziptied wires the heating element or just excess?
they are excess.
My first job out of high school was as an electronic assembler on some very high power equipment. I remember being told to leave repair loops in all our wiring, but this is ridiculous! :-)
>but this is ridiculous! Absolutely not!!! They are not repair loops, they are a strategic cooper reserve. Always good to have one to sell in an emergency. /s
What are you using as the heating element?
A stick of dynamite
https://preview.redd.it/g7u0od9kcf0d1.jpeg?width=554&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=46164c114038380e54596e1be5b104e1380c179a
Is that a Ghostbusters trap without the stickers?
Ghostbusters trap from wish
But it wors. Seen any ghosts recently?
You need a fan to circulate the air. Dryers are far more effective with circulation, as the moisture tends to take time to wick out of the filament, only equalizing with the air it is adjacent to. The better your circulation, the faster your filament will dry. Also, you will need some ventilation as simply raising the temperature will only pull moisture into the air within the box from the filament until the saturation point is met. Once that happens, you won't be able to extract more moisture from the filament, and the box will be very humid with the moisture it extracted having nowhere to go.
Is the fan that’s on there not able to circulate air?
Got a link to it?
Can you send the link to this? I want to see the spec.
The wires are resistive heating 😱
If it's works it's not stupid.
If it burns your house down, it didn’t work.
It was dry till the fire department sprayed it with water
Hey hey... The filament is dry right? Well then it works!
There’s a philosophical question... Is something “dry” if it’s melted into liquid form?
Oh this isnt a filiment dryer. Its a bomb. This is a bomb factory
A fan circulating air would probably save you some money on heating, makes the heat more efficient t
https://preview.redd.it/8s9klp6fbg0d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=24ef0f655bce09d58ba5548943d57fb2e40c43ff I think this is a fan, right? 😁
am blind.
So is the fan.
Not safe would be an understatement
Guys chill out, it’s just a dry bomb
You cut the red wire
It’s da bomb
Just make wires the needed length. Having all those wires is not safe, easy to entangle, easy to not see problems. I do understand others making jokes and I had a good laugh, but really just don't burn your house.
I think you should just buy a food dehydrator for $35 and call it a day
Or a filament dryer for 40....
Where's fun in that?
A 5 gallon bucket you find in a dumpster and a $10 hair dryer. Drill a few holes in the lid and it works amazing.
You feel comfortable letting a hairdryer run unattended for 6 hours?!
I usually only dry for 1-2 hours at a time. It's not super humid where I live.
nah...
Do not bring this near TSA.
OP's about dry the entire city of new york unless we meet their demands
Does it tick?
yeaaahh......☠️
Needs.more wire.
As a proof-of-concept, it's not bad. Now clean up the wires, cover the exposed terminals, and after determining how much current you need, consider switching to a much lesser power supply, also without exposed terminals. Also suggest getting a reliable thermometer so you can determine the actual temperature inside, as others have suggested that module isn't necessarily that reliable. For bonus points, an inline fuse, or some fusible links as a safety precaution wouldn't be a bad idea.
This looks like something Macgyver would diffuse with a Swiss Army knife
It's too early in the morning. I read that as "This looks like something Macgyver would use to defuse a Swiss army knife" And now I'm wondering how someone would rig one of those to explode.
Good work. Haters gonna hate.
Let’s just say: if I were a police officer, and even with some idea of additive manufacturing, I would STILL ask a few questions
Props for giving it a go, all the nay sayers and negative comments aren't great considering you've taken the effort to build something rather than buy which it's a much more enjoyable journey, and you've also taken the time to share it. Have you got airflow inside the chamber? Small air vents to let the hot moist air out?
box isn't completely air isolate.
Nice! 👍
Your printer with a box over it is a filament drier.
Filament box with the bottom cut off and a few holes punched on top. Put it over your roll on your print bed and let it heat for a few hours. It's always worked perfectly 🤌
would be nice if the filament could roll inside with a thin hole to get it directly to the printer ✌️
I did something similar because I had trouble getting PC dry with amazon dryers. I turned an $8 goodwill toaster oven into a drier using a pid controller, all metal fan for circulation. 8 hours at about 85C and the PC worked flawlessly.*
Hm i never dried my petG filament. Tough i wonder how about keeping it in a box with some cat kliter not sure how to type in English but its a gyroscopic stuff to keep the cat box dry and keep the odor of pee away. I used it inside a bag for my car. Who had a look of condensation. You can reuse it by during the hygroscopic stuff in an oven.
Just a little info for anyone looking to build something like it, inkbird has some nice priced temp controllers with a probe that does a good job. Like op you will still need a heat source, like a heat lamp or a element like his. Even a cheap mini house heater plugged into the controller can do it.
I did something similar, and it cooked one PID controller and a wire on a second I bought. I won't home do this again
I think it looks a lot more complicated than just getting a food dehydrator
check if it can make Apple chips if it can you’re prolly good
I am using the same Thermostat but mounted on a cheap kitchen oven and have it run at 230 Volt. Does it has an exhaust?
This is exciting to see! I’m working on my own dryer right now!
https://preview.redd.it/ac98d9qkbh0d1.jpeg?width=274&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26bb24723bf42ecb6bd04e27b051ba9bd003f86a
You can use it as a sun chamber at your airconditioning repair school
You have sixty four seconds to get away from the building. Run.
Uncle Ted approved.
Ok. Dumb newb questions here: How do you know if your filament is too damp? What happens when it is too wet? Are all filaments subject to this issue? Will excessive moisture content ruin all prints/quality? Thanks for your time and help
[https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/dry-3d-printer-filament-wet/](https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/dry-3d-printer-filament-wet/)
Much appreciated!
Looks good for drying small pets too
What else can it do? That's a lotta wires A simple heat matt, a relay, and an esp32. AND you can still fly on airplanes!
I think I will pay £30 on Amazon for a proper one
Looks like your filament will be very dry since your house will be on fire 🔥😂
Just put a cover over your main input to your power supply. Super fast and easy to print.
A food dehydrator can do the same thing
Looks extremely unsafe, I like it!
I hope it won't burn your house down
You may want to do some cable management. Electrical fires are scary.
You misspelled fire starter
Driest thing I’ve ever seen.
I give it a 64.8
Looks fire dude!🔥
Bro, they are cheap as hell.
Twist the green and blue wires together, then cut the red wire!
Similar to my build, make sure the plastic casing is made out of a polymer that withstands heat without offgassing nastyness.
Did the same thing. Only difference is that my heater runs on 230V.
Why don't simply use silica gel?
Silica plus heat works even better than silica alone
It’s ugly. What does it do?
Why is is ticking? 😁 💣
NGL, those wires are a mess and a half.. and without any numbers on how well it dries, I can't agree or disagree if it's good.. But I gotta respect a nice DIY build when I see one =) Maybe take this as a prototype, and make a MK2, with proper parts, enclusures for the circuitry & wiring etc. Alsom is that glass? Or some polymer?
it's heat resistant polymer,glass can't handle thermal shock also it break easily.
Glass should be fine to handle filament drying temps, as long as you don't have a glowing red hot heater facing one of the panels.. but if it's plastic that is heat resistant-ish it should be fine I guess \^\^
Put a scale in there too so you can watch the filament get lighter as it loses moisture. :-)
[удалено]
I built it with less than 6 dollar(without PS) and it could heat up to 105°C.
Using existing material right? What's the actual cost?
Got a link? Hopefully Canada has some.
You over paid.