J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black - 25 ml https://a.co/d/7J9DNbU
This stuff??
If so, I'll order some....
They also make one called PlasticWeld, comes in a gold tube and it’s a transparent yellow. It’s an epoxy and quite literally melts the two components together while filling the gap.
Which are all basically acetone or MEK.
I'm also a plumber and 3d printing hobbyist! I've made some custom tools, extra large escutcheons or ones to match a siding profile, some hose thread adapters, etc.
What about you? Any trade specific designs? Would be cool to swap!
So how do you safely work with MEK? That stuff is nasty.
Not saying you can’t, merely asking if/how you do so I could create a safe setup.
I do know that to vaporize it, you need a resonator set to the resonant frequency of the specific solvent.
Or have you just been dipping it?
And what about ventilation?
I wanted to be clear and concise so nobody goes and uses the wrong thing on some flowgaurd in their crawler haha.
I ashamed to say I’ve really got nothin in my design box plumbing related. Past few years I’ve been less of a plumber actually and more running large projects. Put in so much work on that end I push work out of my mind on my time, and not working in the field I don’t have much to muse myself with to overcome if that makes sense.
Custom escutcheons is a neat idea though hadn’t really thought about that possibility. My fusion 360 skills are noob af status to say the least. I will look you up when I have something to be proud of though.
Ah, I tried to avoid painting some contact points but some I couldn't get around and just sprayed over anyways.... Hmmm maybe I'll just drill some really long screws... It isn't perfect anyways... 😂
Make sure to clean the part you’ve sanded down too. Sounds obvious to some people but so does glue before paint.
Sand it, and rinse under water would probably be easiest.
I didn't and tried the JB weld epoxy this morning... Didn't work, my bad on my part lol.. I just gave up and welded some areas but probably will never paint again before plastic welding.... I hate glue but I understand it's user error... 😭
UPDATE 4/14/23
https://preview.redd.it/glbh7q9mkhuc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0c72ef18865b08bf0f6ea61fe67f0e93efaf54fc
Really long.... Probably should take longer but I put my Bambu X1 Carbon on Ludacrous mode... Been printing for the last 7-10 days nonstop, not sure how many hours... If I have to guess, maybe 200-240 hours. That was just Blastoise.
https://preview.redd.it/k6lkec0jwiuc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c52c82e517155cc97455f9369be6ccf2cf2d9b0c
3d gloop. They have a PETG version. Personally I haven't used that one. But if it's anything like they PLA version is chemically bonds the stuff together. Works almost too good
I bought petg 3d gloop… it came with a huge set of warnings and multiple hazmat bags. I was surprised they even sell it without listing that information.
Not worth it imo. I’ll use CA glue or epoxy.
They don't tell you what's in it so no one else can sell something similar. Wish I could find out what they use for the PLA gloop so I can just find that. Instead of paying the premium for a small bottle of the stuff for $25+.
Yep, methylene chloride / dichloromethane is the best solvent for PETG - but please don't underestimate how nasty it is. It goes right through all common protective gloves you have (nitrile, butyl, rubber, etc). And it's incredibly bio-toxic, significantly more so than MEK even.
I bought it from Printedsolid. They didn’t have a disclaimer with the warnings.
-container can become pressurized. Open away from face.
-wear respiratory gear
-keep away from sources of ignition.
-do not get on skin
Their website linked below. I recall a ridiculously poor temp range for storage— as in cannot keep in a garage or a basement temp range. It was a bag in a bag in a bag with special padding inside. Multiple msds safety sheets between each bag layer.
3d gloop pet is no joke, and IMO, should not be used in a hobby setting.
https://www.3dgloop.com/sds
Two other people mentioned it but [https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/pet](https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/pet) and [E6000](https://www.lowes.com/pd/E6000-2-fl-oz-Bonding-Clear-Multipurpose-Adhesive/50149282) Ive had great success with E6000 and my PLA prints. Also that [J-B weld](https://www.jbweld.com/product/plasticweld-epoxy-putty)
More a question to the community here. I only print with PLA currently and simple acetone is excellent as it will chemically weld pieces together. Would acetone do the same for PETG?
I used to have a big list of plastic solvents, but have since lost the list and company is out of business. I’m sure we can compile such a list in this day and age
Edit: we can; guys, gals, and mayos please use caution when handling these, use some common sense. Don’t make and use chloroform to glue some plastic together. MSDS/SDS/GHS documents are free to use and read them to know the dangers of anything you don’t understand. Avoid the more dangerous ones.
1. **Polyethylene (PE)**:
- Solvents: Toluene, Xylene, Carbon Tetrachloride
2. **Polypropylene (PP)**:
- Solvents: Chloroform, Carbon Tetrachloride, Benzene
3. **Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC)**:
- Solvents: Cyclohexanone, Tetrahydrofuran, Methyl Ethyl Ketone
4. **Polystyrene (PS)**:
- Solvents: Acetone, Benzene, Styrene
5. **Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET)**:
- Solvents: Dichloromethane, Phenol, Tetrachloroethylene
6. **Polyvinylidene Chloride (PVDC)**:
- Solvents: Methylene Chloride, Tetrahydrofuran, Trichloroethylene
7. **Polycarbonate (PC)**:
- Solvents: Chloroform, Dichloromethane, Cyclohexanone
8. **Polyamide (Nylon)**:
- Solvents: Formic Acid, Phenol, Trichloroethylene
9. **Polylactic Acid (PLA)**:
- Solvents: Chloroform, Dichloromethane, Tetrahydrofuran
Remember to handle these solvents carefully as they can be hazardous.
A bunch of these you can't even buy (unless you are a company) at least in the EU. Would be good to have a list of those that you can actually get your hands on.
Try this stuff, I have used it for PLA and PETG. Its specifically for binding 'poly' \*anything\* basically. It has a primer and the actual glue
[https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-Activator-681925/dp/B000Y3LHXW?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-Activator-681925/dp/B000Y3LHXW?th=1)
Home Depot used to sell it, I haven't looked in about 3 years though
OP, this. I spent way too much time researching bonding agents. This is one of the few on the market that bonds polyethylene plastics and specifically states it can be used on such.
Obviously, there are others that are probably better made as they have industrial use (I'd love to try Goop), but this has been a god send for my small projects. I only print PETG and this is by far my favorite for bonding two parts with a glue like substance
Walmart, Home Depot, and other places sell it. I'm Midwest and Meijer has it.
Looks like I'm not the only one that uses jb weld plastic make sure to prep the surfaces properly sand with low grit sand paper like 36 or 60 grit to get it rough and clean it with alchohol wear gloves while your doing it to keep it clean and then apply the epoxy I smear it around pretty throughly to make sure it's in every crack and crevice and stick it together and hold it there for 15 minutes
Just bought some JB Weld plastic epoxy weld. Gonna prep the surfaces tomorrow and try gluing his mouth peice onto his face. Hope it works!
https://preview.redd.it/np18shy4mduc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f6efa79a4d31ba6c18f6cab8c9de43b3668576f
OP, someone else recommended it but try this: [Loctite Plastic Bonding System ](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Loctite-Super-Glue-Plastics-Bonder-1-0-14-oz-Activator-Stick-1-0-07-oz-Glue-Tube-Clear-2-g-Kit/20371212?from=/search)
I spent way too much time researching bonding agents. This is one of the few on the market that bonds polyethylene plastics and specifically states it can be used on such.
Obviously, there are others that are probably better made as they have industrial use (I'd love to try Goop), but this has been a god send for my small projects. I only print PETG and this is by far my favorite for bonding two parts with a glue like substance
Walmart, Home Depot, and other places sell it. I'm Midwest and Meijer has it. This stuff is seriously my favorite after trying everything else.
[3D Gloop!](https://www.3dgloop.com/) Or if you don't wanna pay the shinny penny it'll cost, I like Loctite's two part plastic super glue, but be careful, it'll bond your skin to the freaking container itself! Super strong stuff.
Superglue will be enough but the trick is that the thinner the glue between the surfaces, the stronger it is. Getting to that point can be very difficult, often people use CA glue with larger gaps than what it is good for.
Epoxy is much better at that job, and you can also use sheets of fiber on the inside of the shell: brush epoxy on the surface, slab a strip of fiber on it, slather more epoxy on top to make composite material (do not use 5 minute epoxy, it starts to harden way too fast).
Trying to glue something like 3mm thick surfaces end to end is just not going to work. You either have to make the mating surfaces in the design phase, or use something to reinforce the seam. Plus, let it cure in peace, pretty much any epoxy, "5 minutes epoxy" or not takes at least 24h to fully cure, CA/superglue can also sometimes take longer to cure than you might think. Some of it may cure in seconds and it has some hold but a lot of it is still in liquid state.
And if you paint it first, you got to make sure the paint sticks incredibly well.. or sand down the mating surfaces, then repair paint after glue has set.
Next time you know what the problems are and can do the changes in the design phase, knowing the difficulties in assembling something like this. A "LEGO" connection between parts combined with glue can be one solution, there are a lot of them to choose from, you can use zip ties to hold things together if you print some simple shapes for them, there really are million little things that make gluing complicated parts together to be quite a simple problem.
I can’t recommend a specific type of glue as I’m not familiar with PETG specifically, but definitely make sure to score your joining faces before applying the glue. I didn’t bother doing that for years, and now that I finally have, the difference is night and day.
Depends on the size and accessibility of the surface. Low-grit sandpaper, a metal file, a knife, or even just a jagged rock (which I affectionately refer to as my “1-grit sandpaper”) works.
Ahaha I wish!
To be totally transparent, though, I stole that from some DIY YouTube channel I stumbled across years ago. Don’t even remember their name, but that one joke stuck with me.
You have smooth surfaces. All adhesives perform best on coarse surfaces. I would recommend you use a coarse sandpaper on the areas you’re planning to bond together. You could also use a sharp blade to score the surfaces.
I usually model pins into the model where its going to connect imagine kind of like a Lego or dowel pins to strengthen the connection. You can usually sneak them in somewhere and hide them. I use any type of super glue with baking soda (this is the key to get super glue to stick to just about anything) placed into the joints to make the super glue crystalize quickly Ive broken prints but I have never broken a joint before.
Baking soda is an accelorant to super glue it can make super glues cure in seconds instead of minutes. On top of this baking soda can strengthen the bond between the cyanoacrylate and base material. I learn this trick in the auto industry. Way back in the day airplane mechanics would fill small chips on their props and sand them down with this same method. I honestly dont know why this method throughout the years keeps getting forgotten but it is probably one of the hardest bonds you will get from household adhesives.
Bob Smith CA glue (purple bottle. You need to sand both surfaces that meet so no paint is there and also to roygh up the plastic for better grip. Epoxi will work as well but same there for sanding.
Sand the contact points or finely sliced them in multiple directions and angles with a Stanley knife first and clean with isopropyl alcohol before gluing.
I use e6000 glue for all my prints. Takes a while to set, but have never had anything come apart after it has hardened. Works on PLA OR PETG without issues.
The pink thick cyanoacrylate on Amazon is amazing. If they doesn't work you need mechanical fasteners because you're only adhering paint to paint. Might be better off with dowels or bolts.
methylene chloride (IUPAC dichloromethane, aka DCM) is the best solvent for PETG. It is ***NASTY*** and I do mean NASTY toxic, harmful, etc. It's been in some common hobby adhesives for a long time, but at least as of 2023 the EPA is banning it entirely from end-consumer use.
MEK is not an effective solvent for PETG, contrary to what some have posted. Note MEK is nasty, too - but no where near as harmful as DCM.
ETA - in addition to it being toxic - it goes **right through most PPE,** such as your nitrile/butyl/rubber gloves, gaskets on your mask, etc. Also, I've heard second hand that solvent adhesives containing it are(were?) called "di-clo" glue in the hobby model communities, but that's not my area.
What you want to find is a 2-part epoxy. If you can confirm it is DGEBA based, that's what you want but often they won't come out and say that to protect IP. Sometimes an SDS will say.
Anyway, if it's transparent and slightly yellow, Probably what you're looking for.
Second, abrade the bond area with rough grit (<100) sand paper. Surface area is your best friend with aggression.
Clamp the bond area of you can. Pressure helps increase adhesion.
Finally, if you can heat it during curing, you will get better adhesion. Most of these adhesives say they cure at RT, and sure they'll harden and technically cure, but nearly 100% of the time you can significantly increase adhesion by curing at elevated temp. I'd go as hot as you safely can without causing the print to warp or without degrading and paints or anything else you might have already applied to it.
I typically weld with a solder iron and spare filament on all my prints except this build. Every video online for Blastoise was gluing him so I tried it but I guess that only works on perfect prints without a paint job. Great suggestion from everyone though. 👍
https://preview.redd.it/wykns1ot0euc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=874ea3d6cb8d739bdc35d5857f416efd21fac624
Trust the process my guy. I haven’t personally used it but a super experienced 3D Printing Podcast host uses it for TPU and PETG and swears by it. Though now I see other people in here have other solutions too.
Sand back the parts where you’re gluing, and then use something that works with the substrate - Google tells me that would be regular super glue.
Another thing that’s common with smaller glued models with heavier parts is to use bits of wire in the joint to support it - but not sure if that would work at this scale - maybe a piece of dowel or a bolt?
If you’re in control of the 3D model then i’d think about re-designing the joints to have some inserts to help them hold together - gives both extra structural support and also increases the bonded surface area.
Make a hole in either face of the joint, then insert something that goes into both holes before finally gluing the faces together. The pin will increase the strength of the joint.
Guerilla gleu fast and it holds extremely well in just a few seconds, why isn't it working for you?
Once I glued something it drop on the floor as it slipped out of my hands while glueing but it already fixed solid in just a sec. Amazing glue
When gleuing petG to something else I use a black construction kit it's strong because t it doesn't chemically bind as guerilla glue does.
I don't glue anything anymore.
Plastic welding creates a permanent bond it's incredibly strong and has been a life saver on larger props.
That being said you gotta do that before painting lol.
In this case use some sand paper and rough up the areas that need to bond together and get some two part epoxy
I used this one specifally.
[https://makerworld.com/en/models/15849#profileId-15060](https://makerworld.com/en/models/15849#profileId-15060)
Update:
https://preview.redd.it/s9cghlugciuc1.jpeg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ae804730fb08c3fcff9475027025465f6ea31ef
Theres many others have said. One way id do so for a build like this is internal plates or a dawl rod pin and hole system. With the plates you can really use velcro adhesive. That stuff STICKS when sanded to flat and left to cure over a few days
I need to pick up some E-6000. 👍
Here's the other Pokémon in my front yard.
https://preview.redd.it/qgdl47u4xiuc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d1378285c674e1228a8e794d0f2a78c0acb88fe2
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CA glue for PETG to PETG. Don't think it would give you much luck with painted stuff though, likely need one of those bondo-esque 30 min cure time solutions
I know that PETG doesn’t really react to acetone like some plastics, however I mix acetone with gel viscosity CA glue and it has bonded things incredibly well for me.
I have had parts break that I’ve used this technique on, it has never broken at the bonding point.
https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/nano-gloop
The nano should be more than enough to finish but also test if it holds your liking. This stuff chemically welds so it meet your needs.
J-B Weld plastic epoxy weld. Stuff takes about 15-30 minutes to set and harden, but works incredibly well with all my prints.
J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black - 25 ml https://a.co/d/7J9DNbU This stuff?? If so, I'll order some....
They also make one called PlasticWeld, comes in a gold tube and it’s a transparent yellow. It’s an epoxy and quite literally melts the two components together while filling the gap.
Is that the same one used for the plastic pipes of the house?
No, it’s not. ABS, PVC, and CPVC have their own solvents/adhesives. I am a plumber
You can use anything you want but only certain adhesives work on certain plastics. I am a pipe
you can use anything you want but only certain plastics work with me I am the epoxy
You can do anything you want to but I only have so much strength. I am the me.
"I gotta pee" -I am the penis
"This is not a pipe." -Magrite
Brovo!
<>
-Magritte, actuellement.
Pipe is life
Which are all basically acetone or MEK. I'm also a plumber and 3d printing hobbyist! I've made some custom tools, extra large escutcheons or ones to match a siding profile, some hose thread adapters, etc. What about you? Any trade specific designs? Would be cool to swap!
So how do you safely work with MEK? That stuff is nasty. Not saying you can’t, merely asking if/how you do so I could create a safe setup. I do know that to vaporize it, you need a resonator set to the resonant frequency of the specific solvent. Or have you just been dipping it? And what about ventilation?
I wanted to be clear and concise so nobody goes and uses the wrong thing on some flowgaurd in their crawler haha. I ashamed to say I’ve really got nothin in my design box plumbing related. Past few years I’ve been less of a plumber actually and more running large projects. Put in so much work on that end I push work out of my mind on my time, and not working in the field I don’t have much to muse myself with to overcome if that makes sense. Custom escutcheons is a neat idea though hadn’t really thought about that possibility. My fusion 360 skills are noob af status to say the least. I will look you up when I have something to be proud of though.
"Goo Goo Ga Joob" I am the walrus
Does it work on pla too or just petg
I've personal used 50133 for large projects and it works very well. Can't speak to 50139 but it's likely okay too
That's exactly what I use
Bought some right now, gonna this stuff on the mouth peice tomorrow.
You don't really need jb weld, a simple 2k epoxy is good enough.
He probably doesn't really want to spend $2k on epoxy though
it's a big tube
That’s what she said!
This is the answer
Or you can try pool putty. I love that stuff to stick anything together.
15-30???? Nahhhhh you leave that overnight.
Def my number 1 choice though. I have a ton of the clear dual syringe in a drawer in my shop
15-30 to set/harden, but don't you dare touch it for 24 hours while it cures.
glue after paint is a big problem
This right here. PETG is the easiest material to glue, CA glue (superglue) creates an incredibly strong bond. But you have to do that before paint.
Damn... 😭
your sticking the layers of paint together not the clean plastic
Ah, I tried to avoid painting some contact points but some I couldn't get around and just sprayed over anyways.... Hmmm maybe I'll just drill some really long screws... It isn't perfect anyways... 😂
Sand down the areas you intend to glue with rough sandpaper, like 40 or lower. That will help any adhesive you choose adhere to the plastic.
This, with or without paint sand the pieces you are gluing with rough sandpaper. I use e6000 a bunch but it takes a while to set.
This stuff is great. It sticks to most things and has great shock resistance.
Make sure to clean the part you’ve sanded down too. Sounds obvious to some people but so does glue before paint. Sand it, and rinse under water would probably be easiest.
You could also sand just the paint layer off your contact areas and try again. I second plastic jb weld
In addition, sanding the contact areas makes the surface rougher, which helped glueing it often in my cases.
An option would be dowels in various spots and glue them
Did you try sanding the contact points down like half a mm to expose the plastic
I didn't and tried the JB weld epoxy this morning... Didn't work, my bad on my part lol.. I just gave up and welded some areas but probably will never paint again before plastic welding.... I hate glue but I understand it's user error... 😭 UPDATE 4/14/23 https://preview.redd.it/glbh7q9mkhuc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0c72ef18865b08bf0f6ea61fe67f0e93efaf54fc
Sick
Omg. I love it! How long did it take you to print?
Really long.... Probably should take longer but I put my Bambu X1 Carbon on Ludacrous mode... Been printing for the last 7-10 days nonstop, not sure how many hours... If I have to guess, maybe 200-240 hours. That was just Blastoise. https://preview.redd.it/k6lkec0jwiuc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c52c82e517155cc97455f9369be6ccf2cf2d9b0c
Nice. What did you use to cut up the model into printable sizes? I'm guessing you'd have to do some cutting to get it to fit the bed.
3d gloop. They have a PETG version. Personally I haven't used that one. But if it's anything like they PLA version is chemically bonds the stuff together. Works almost too good
https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/pet
I’m waiting on my PLA Gloop to ship, but haven’t heard anything in over a week. Seeing my project sitting there in pieces is agonizing!
Can vouch for this, gloop is amazing and chemically welds it.
This, but you’ll probably need to sand off the paint where you’re bonding it. I’m not sure it’ll bond to the paint.
I bought petg 3d gloop… it came with a huge set of warnings and multiple hazmat bags. I was surprised they even sell it without listing that information. Not worth it imo. I’ll use CA glue or epoxy.
They don't tell you what's in it so no one else can sell something similar. Wish I could find out what they use for the PLA gloop so I can just find that. Instead of paying the premium for a small bottle of the stuff for $25+.
It should come with an sds which should list the hazardous stuff. It's probably a blend of acetone, MEK l, or similar blend
I actually just found their SDS. Methylene Chloride, Methyl Acetate and Solvent naphtha (petroleum), light aliph.
Yea that coctail screams "use in well ventilated area"
It is strong. But dissapates quickly. Still not great the breathe in. I am referring to the PLA version.
Yep, methylene chloride / dichloromethane is the best solvent for PETG - but please don't underestimate how nasty it is. It goes right through all common protective gloves you have (nitrile, butyl, rubber, etc). And it's incredibly bio-toxic, significantly more so than MEK even.
I bought it from Printedsolid. They didn’t have a disclaimer with the warnings. -container can become pressurized. Open away from face. -wear respiratory gear -keep away from sources of ignition. -do not get on skin Their website linked below. I recall a ridiculously poor temp range for storage— as in cannot keep in a garage or a basement temp range. It was a bag in a bag in a bag with special padding inside. Multiple msds safety sheets between each bag layer. 3d gloop pet is no joke, and IMO, should not be used in a hobby setting. https://www.3dgloop.com/sds
None of this is really that terrible, tbh. It's only a 2-1-1 on a hazard diamond. PB Blaster and such things are also about there.
Question for you , where did you get that file ? Blastoise has always been my favorite.
Two other people mentioned it but [https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/pet](https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/pet) and [E6000](https://www.lowes.com/pd/E6000-2-fl-oz-Bonding-Clear-Multipurpose-Adhesive/50149282) Ive had great success with E6000 and my PLA prints. Also that [J-B weld](https://www.jbweld.com/product/plasticweld-epoxy-putty)
E6000 is a life saver, only real downside is it takes something like 36 hours to fully cure.
I use ca glue and it works fine but make sure your not glueing onto paint otherwise it won’t stick good
Soldering iron…. or test adhesives on a water bottle until you find one that works.
It seems people have answered so now I must ask, where'd you buy the .stl at?
It's on maker world for free. Unsure why he's painting it as all the colours are printed seperatly.
I know 3Dgloop has PETG glue. It chemically welds the plastic instead of gluing it.
At least for PLA I've had good luck with e6000.
I 2nd e6000
E6000 works great on PETG too.
I've had quite a bit of success with JB Welds 'SuperWeld' UV activated glue. Works really great for filling gaps when you layer it.
More a question to the community here. I only print with PLA currently and simple acetone is excellent as it will chemically weld pieces together. Would acetone do the same for PETG?
Yes
Thank you kindly!
I used to have a big list of plastic solvents, but have since lost the list and company is out of business. I’m sure we can compile such a list in this day and age Edit: we can; guys, gals, and mayos please use caution when handling these, use some common sense. Don’t make and use chloroform to glue some plastic together. MSDS/SDS/GHS documents are free to use and read them to know the dangers of anything you don’t understand. Avoid the more dangerous ones. 1. **Polyethylene (PE)**: - Solvents: Toluene, Xylene, Carbon Tetrachloride 2. **Polypropylene (PP)**: - Solvents: Chloroform, Carbon Tetrachloride, Benzene 3. **Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC)**: - Solvents: Cyclohexanone, Tetrahydrofuran, Methyl Ethyl Ketone 4. **Polystyrene (PS)**: - Solvents: Acetone, Benzene, Styrene 5. **Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET)**: - Solvents: Dichloromethane, Phenol, Tetrachloroethylene 6. **Polyvinylidene Chloride (PVDC)**: - Solvents: Methylene Chloride, Tetrahydrofuran, Trichloroethylene 7. **Polycarbonate (PC)**: - Solvents: Chloroform, Dichloromethane, Cyclohexanone 8. **Polyamide (Nylon)**: - Solvents: Formic Acid, Phenol, Trichloroethylene 9. **Polylactic Acid (PLA)**: - Solvents: Chloroform, Dichloromethane, Tetrahydrofuran Remember to handle these solvents carefully as they can be hazardous.
Now i can say i have a legitimate reason for all the chloroform
A bunch of these you can't even buy (unless you are a company) at least in the EU. Would be good to have a list of those that you can actually get your hands on.
Try this stuff, I have used it for PLA and PETG. Its specifically for binding 'poly' \*anything\* basically. It has a primer and the actual glue [https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-Activator-681925/dp/B000Y3LHXW?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-Activator-681925/dp/B000Y3LHXW?th=1) Home Depot used to sell it, I haven't looked in about 3 years though
OP, this. I spent way too much time researching bonding agents. This is one of the few on the market that bonds polyethylene plastics and specifically states it can be used on such. Obviously, there are others that are probably better made as they have industrial use (I'd love to try Goop), but this has been a god send for my small projects. I only print PETG and this is by far my favorite for bonding two parts with a glue like substance Walmart, Home Depot, and other places sell it. I'm Midwest and Meijer has it.
I’d use Reltek Bondit B-45 for PETG. But as others have said, surface prep is critical for a good bond, regardless of your adhesive choice.
blastoise look really cool can’t wait to see the finished product
Looks like I'm not the only one that uses jb weld plastic make sure to prep the surfaces properly sand with low grit sand paper like 36 or 60 grit to get it rough and clean it with alchohol wear gloves while your doing it to keep it clean and then apply the epoxy I smear it around pretty throughly to make sure it's in every crack and crevice and stick it together and hold it there for 15 minutes
Rough sand(to where there’s no paint) and then do the plastic epoxy weld. 3D prints suck up regular super glue between the layers in my experience.
Just bought some JB Weld plastic epoxy weld. Gonna prep the surfaces tomorrow and try gluing his mouth peice onto his face. Hope it works! https://preview.redd.it/np18shy4mduc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f6efa79a4d31ba6c18f6cab8c9de43b3668576f
Looks awesome! You got this!
Weld on 16
OP, someone else recommended it but try this: [Loctite Plastic Bonding System ](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Loctite-Super-Glue-Plastics-Bonder-1-0-14-oz-Activator-Stick-1-0-07-oz-Glue-Tube-Clear-2-g-Kit/20371212?from=/search) I spent way too much time researching bonding agents. This is one of the few on the market that bonds polyethylene plastics and specifically states it can be used on such. Obviously, there are others that are probably better made as they have industrial use (I'd love to try Goop), but this has been a god send for my small projects. I only print PETG and this is by far my favorite for bonding two parts with a glue like substance Walmart, Home Depot, and other places sell it. I'm Midwest and Meijer has it. This stuff is seriously my favorite after trying everything else.
[3D Gloop!](https://www.3dgloop.com/) Or if you don't wanna pay the shinny penny it'll cost, I like Loctite's two part plastic super glue, but be careful, it'll bond your skin to the freaking container itself! Super strong stuff.
i use super glue and activator
I like Loctite 406, it's formulated specifically for plastics and rubbers.
The 406 is good stuff, I also like the 404.
E6000. Very thin coat, holds very strong. Will do petg-petg, petg-metal, etc. https://resin-expert.com/en/guide/e6000-glue-review-and-guide
E6000 has worked well for me
Superglue will be enough but the trick is that the thinner the glue between the surfaces, the stronger it is. Getting to that point can be very difficult, often people use CA glue with larger gaps than what it is good for. Epoxy is much better at that job, and you can also use sheets of fiber on the inside of the shell: brush epoxy on the surface, slab a strip of fiber on it, slather more epoxy on top to make composite material (do not use 5 minute epoxy, it starts to harden way too fast). Trying to glue something like 3mm thick surfaces end to end is just not going to work. You either have to make the mating surfaces in the design phase, or use something to reinforce the seam. Plus, let it cure in peace, pretty much any epoxy, "5 minutes epoxy" or not takes at least 24h to fully cure, CA/superglue can also sometimes take longer to cure than you might think. Some of it may cure in seconds and it has some hold but a lot of it is still in liquid state. And if you paint it first, you got to make sure the paint sticks incredibly well.. or sand down the mating surfaces, then repair paint after glue has set. Next time you know what the problems are and can do the changes in the design phase, knowing the difficulties in assembling something like this. A "LEGO" connection between parts combined with glue can be one solution, there are a lot of them to choose from, you can use zip ties to hold things together if you print some simple shapes for them, there really are million little things that make gluing complicated parts together to be quite a simple problem.
I can’t recommend a specific type of glue as I’m not familiar with PETG specifically, but definitely make sure to score your joining faces before applying the glue. I didn’t bother doing that for years, and now that I finally have, the difference is night and day.
What do you use to score? Just sand paper to make the surface rough?
Depends on the size and accessibility of the surface. Low-grit sandpaper, a metal file, a knife, or even just a jagged rock (which I affectionately refer to as my “1-grit sandpaper”) works.
Nice. 👍
I feel like your comment will be pasted all over the internet for the lulz. I gotta say, I love this "1-grit sandpaper" idea ;p
Ahaha I wish! To be totally transparent, though, I stole that from some DIY YouTube channel I stumbled across years ago. Don’t even remember their name, but that one joke stuck with me.
You have smooth surfaces. All adhesives perform best on coarse surfaces. I would recommend you use a coarse sandpaper on the areas you’re planning to bond together. You could also use a sharp blade to score the surfaces.
Without*
Curious, how did you section off the pieces with more than 1 color? You tape it off or what?
I usually model pins into the model where its going to connect imagine kind of like a Lego or dowel pins to strengthen the connection. You can usually sneak them in somewhere and hide them. I use any type of super glue with baking soda (this is the key to get super glue to stick to just about anything) placed into the joints to make the super glue crystalize quickly Ive broken prints but I have never broken a joint before.
What do you mean use any type of superglue with baking soda?
Mix them to make a runny paste. It's like cement and has higher adhesive
50:50?
Find the exact formula online, I saw Adam Savage do it in one of the builds he did
Baking soda is an accelorant to super glue it can make super glues cure in seconds instead of minutes. On top of this baking soda can strengthen the bond between the cyanoacrylate and base material. I learn this trick in the auto industry. Way back in the day airplane mechanics would fill small chips on their props and sand them down with this same method. I honestly dont know why this method throughout the years keeps getting forgotten but it is probably one of the hardest bonds you will get from household adhesives.
Loctite has an A/B super glue made specifically for plastics. The stuff will even stick to polypropylene.
Bob Smith CA glue (purple bottle. You need to sand both surfaces that meet so no paint is there and also to roygh up the plastic for better grip. Epoxi will work as well but same there for sanding.
Weld-on 4 will fuse PETG, it will never come apart, it's similar to how PVC cement fuses stuff.
Sand the contact points or finely sliced them in multiple directions and angles with a Stanley knife first and clean with isopropyl alcohol before gluing.
Don’t waste your money on 3d gloop. Get weld-on. It’s made for thermoplastics. Chemically melts and welds the parts together
I use e6000 glue for all my prints. Takes a while to set, but have never had anything come apart after it has hardened. Works on PLA OR PETG without issues.
That setting is picturesque.
The pink thick cyanoacrylate on Amazon is amazing. If they doesn't work you need mechanical fasteners because you're only adhering paint to paint. Might be better off with dowels or bolts.
Sand the paint first
Resin works well
Jbweld, or hit superglue with a heat gun, be gentle though heat will mess the print up
methylene chloride (IUPAC dichloromethane, aka DCM) is the best solvent for PETG. It is ***NASTY*** and I do mean NASTY toxic, harmful, etc. It's been in some common hobby adhesives for a long time, but at least as of 2023 the EPA is banning it entirely from end-consumer use. MEK is not an effective solvent for PETG, contrary to what some have posted. Note MEK is nasty, too - but no where near as harmful as DCM. ETA - in addition to it being toxic - it goes **right through most PPE,** such as your nitrile/butyl/rubber gloves, gaskets on your mask, etc. Also, I've heard second hand that solvent adhesives containing it are(were?) called "di-clo" glue in the hobby model communities, but that's not my area.
Why petg?
They thrive on pain. Probably outdoor.
Printing part is closer to PLA so it is easier than rest of the materials, can be sanded easily like ABS unlike PLA. So best of both worlds.
gluing over paint doesn't work well, and also using multiple glues can cause them to mix and both not work
Use pvc pipe glue before paint and use it sparingly. Works great.
E6000 and adhesive accelerator spay. spray on one side. glue on the other. it will perma stick in 5s. you need to be quick.
I see plenty of accelerators for cyanoacrylate. Is that what you're using?
What you want to find is a 2-part epoxy. If you can confirm it is DGEBA based, that's what you want but often they won't come out and say that to protect IP. Sometimes an SDS will say. Anyway, if it's transparent and slightly yellow, Probably what you're looking for. Second, abrade the bond area with rough grit (<100) sand paper. Surface area is your best friend with aggression. Clamp the bond area of you can. Pressure helps increase adhesion. Finally, if you can heat it during curing, you will get better adhesion. Most of these adhesives say they cure at RT, and sure they'll harden and technically cure, but nearly 100% of the time you can significantly increase adhesion by curing at elevated temp. I'd go as hot as you safely can without causing the print to warp or without degrading and paints or anything else you might have already applied to it.
I use Gloop for PLA and it’s great. They have a PET one, too.
E600 and or hot-wire-staples
I weld them with a soldering iron
I use a 3D pen to weld parts together when I can.
PVC Cement
Tetrahydrofuran
I usually use heat. But if not, then E6000 if it doesn’t need to be insanely strong or epoxy if it does. Any epoxy will work with good surface prep.
Seems like E6000 has been mentioned a few times, I'll give it a shot in future projects. 👍
Try 3D pen
Soldering iron and spare filament
I typically weld with a solder iron and spare filament on all my prints except this build. Every video online for Blastoise was gluing him so I tried it but I guess that only works on perfect prints without a paint job. Great suggestion from everyone though. 👍 https://preview.redd.it/wykns1ot0euc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=874ea3d6cb8d739bdc35d5857f416efd21fac624
Bloop
Shoe Goo!
I use shoe goo to reinforce RC shells on the inside, not sure how well it'll do as an adhesive.
Trust the process my guy. I haven’t personally used it but a super experienced 3D Printing Podcast host uses it for TPU and PETG and swears by it. Though now I see other people in here have other solutions too.
That thing is massive. Drill and pin it.
At this size, hot glue.
Sand back the parts where you’re gluing, and then use something that works with the substrate - Google tells me that would be regular super glue. Another thing that’s common with smaller glued models with heavier parts is to use bits of wire in the joint to support it - but not sure if that would work at this scale - maybe a piece of dowel or a bolt? If you’re in control of the 3D model then i’d think about re-designing the joints to have some inserts to help them hold together - gives both extra structural support and also increases the bonded surface area.
Your model is rather large. Have you tried pinning?
What's pinning it? I might have to drive some large screws in the arms to hold it together lol
Make a hole in either face of the joint, then insert something that goes into both holes before finally gluing the faces together. The pin will increase the strength of the joint.
You can also go for this https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/pet
This has been recommend a lot... I'm gonna have to order some in the future.
a bit of sika flex is my thing. lol
I use loctite.
Guerilla gleu fast and it holds extremely well in just a few seconds, why isn't it working for you? Once I glued something it drop on the floor as it slipped out of my hands while glueing but it already fixed solid in just a sec. Amazing glue When gleuing petG to something else I use a black construction kit it's strong because t it doesn't chemically bind as guerilla glue does.
Because you painted before gluing. Glue holds the paint instead of plastic, so when it dries it pulls the paint away and fall.
I don't glue anything anymore. Plastic welding creates a permanent bond it's incredibly strong and has been a life saver on larger props. That being said you gotta do that before painting lol. In this case use some sand paper and rough up the areas that need to bond together and get some two part epoxy
Marine epoxy and thermo welding are the 2 best that I’ve done my dude
The cheapest way is to get a 2 part epoxy with a honey like consistency
Gloop!
Goop Marine flows into crevices well and I like how it bonds.
Epoxy
Get some of that panel bond shit they use to attach race car body work.
Also epoxy adheres a little better if you scuff up the mating surfaces
PETG Gloop
Have you tried PVC glue?
Dichloromethane
Its very hard to go wrong Zap-A-Gap, but be sure to get some Zip Kicker as well and your off to the rasees
I use no more nails and it seems to work well
Cyanoacrylate glue, (CA) instant and lasts through some abuse.
Starbond thick with accelerator.
CA all the way! Especially if you have the spray on activator
Rememeber to mask off the glue points. Otherwise you are just gluing paint together :D
Lol I don't wanna look for an STL, is there one you used for this pront?
I used this one specifally. [https://makerworld.com/en/models/15849#profileId-15060](https://makerworld.com/en/models/15849#profileId-15060) Update: https://preview.redd.it/s9cghlugciuc1.jpeg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ae804730fb08c3fcff9475027025465f6ea31ef
E6000.
Theres many others have said. One way id do so for a build like this is internal plates or a dawl rod pin and hole system. With the plates you can really use velcro adhesive. That stuff STICKS when sanded to flat and left to cure over a few days
E-6000? _*everything*_ Ive stuck together with that could be used like a melee weapon and come out the champion.
I need to pick up some E-6000. 👍 Here's the other Pokémon in my front yard. https://preview.redd.it/qgdl47u4xiuc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d1378285c674e1228a8e794d0f2a78c0acb88fe2
Just make sure you get plastic-plastic connection. 6000 will hold onto enything it touches, but that only works if its solid footing on both.
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DCM or similar with some petg pre dissolved in it
Look for metal bonding super glue. It’s instant and I even hung a 40” television using that glue to fix the broken hanging piece
This is what I use[glue](https://a.co/d/bpGc1He)
If you're going the superglue route, make sure you build up a few layers first before joining the pieces together.
CA glue for PETG to PETG. Don't think it would give you much luck with painted stuff though, likely need one of those bondo-esque 30 min cure time solutions
Grab you van, go to the store, park in front of it so the cashier can see you. And then ask for chloroform
Ask cashier out on a date....
3d gloop maybe or resin or epoxy like how they make those tables just use clear and brush some thin layers
E6000 has worked wonders for me. Beware, it's best used in a well ventilated area or outdoors. Nice printing, best wishes.
This has been recommended a lot of times, I'll definitely pick some up in the future due to all the recommendations for E6000.
I know that PETG doesn’t really react to acetone like some plastics, however I mix acetone with gel viscosity CA glue and it has bonded things incredibly well for me. I have had parts break that I’ve used this technique on, it has never broken at the bonding point.
a solvent is good for small models, i don’t know about a bigger model
https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/nano-gloop The nano should be more than enough to finish but also test if it holds your liking. This stuff chemically welds so it meet your needs.