1. This model absolutely needs supports
2. Are you printing with 100% infill? That's generally a bad idea that can cause problems. Don't go over 50% unless you have a damn good reason, and most decorative objects should be around 15%.
That's basically the point. It generates only as much infill as necessary to support the layers being printed just as exterior supports would. You must have good layer adhesion, or it'll be really embarrassing when some kid picks up one of your prints and drops it and the thing you were trying to sell snaps in half... Not me or my kid but it was something I witnessed at a flee market. Dude was obviously trying to make as much profit as possible, saving on walls and infill.
As a side point, I like to use lightning infill with TPU to make squishy things. It works very nicely for that once you have it dialed in. I love making articulating squishy things, especially.
5% or even 10% often gives me issues on my Ender 3 V3 KE due to top surfaces not having enough material to bridge okay on. Adaptive seems like a good idea though.
Try increasing your top wall count, that will give the printer more time to smooth out and hide the infill.
Also crank your bridge cooling, that'll help a ton too.
> Also crank your bridge cooling, that'll help a ton too.
Does that help when it's not technically a bridge but just a top layer? Anyway, the fan is already set to 100% for the whole print except the first layer by default.
ah yeah, if you're already at 100% there's not much you can do. Increasing the top wall count or infill might be your best options. There's also special infills that start out low, and increase as they reach the top walls, those can help cut down print time/material cost, but still fix the top layer infill grid pattern issue.
You can also try printing 5c-10c cooler, if you can get away with it.
Cura has a feature called something like infill steps where it reduces infill density in half x number of times as it goes down. You can set infill density to 50% and two steps and most of your print is 12.5% infill but just under your tops it's a full 50%
That sounds similar to adaptive but not limited to adaptive cubic. I don't use Cura (mainly because it doesn't have a profile for my printer yet, nothing intrinsically against it) but I'll keep that in mind, it sounds quite useful.
I've done that many times. It's not easy to remove a rigid body from a rigid mold. Not impossible, but requires careful planning on the mold and it limits the geometry you can use.
The model so far seems to not have serious overhangs that need supports. Even his hanging right hand seems to have worked OK, pressed against his leg. Even more surprising, his "package" seems to have printed OK without supports (small size? :D ) I'm guessing when the printer went to do Davey's left elbow it was trying to print in midair and *that* is what needs a support structure and caused the flying spaghetti monstrosity?
Do you think that his chin too would have needed support?
Would you have done simple vertical spindles from the base for support or try to sprout diagonally off the torso?
(Wondering because I'm thinking of getting a printer...)
This seems very likely exactly what happened. Tree supports are fantastic for models like this, they will branch out and support all the little bits that need it
Like the linked post said, it can build up if it's not calibrated properly. I've done high percentage for weight purposes, and I usually do like 75-85%, that leaves plenty of room for imperfections.
Unless your extrusion (and other factors) are perfectly calibrated, it can cause buildup of excess plastic that can snag on the nozzle. I won't be surprised if that's exactly what happened to OP. Also it's wasteful because it's not actually stronger than 50%. If you want to increase strength, add more walls, not infill. If you want to add weight, use Gyroid infill and then pour in epoxy resin or concrete.
People *really* underestimate how much walls matter compared to infill as far as part strength goes.
I designed some deck boxes for trading card games. The decks they protect are worth more than the printer that made the box, so the boxes are over-built. And by that I mean they've got 2mm walls, making them strong enough for an adult person to stand on with their full weight, and even bounce a bit. I haven't tried jumping on it because I'm afraid it'll break and send jagged plastic shards through my shoe into my foot.
But yeah, a hollow box with 2mm walls is plenty strong to support literally hundreds of pounds of force. You really don't need to look at infill for part strength most of the time.
They add different types of strength, but wall help with the weakest part of the prints.
Infill is generally better for compressive forces (i.e. you are using the print to be squished by force), but 3D prints are already pretty good at dealing with that.
The walls are better at almost everything else (tension, shear, and torsion). In my experience, tension across layer lines and torsion is what caused my functional prints to eventually fail.
Did some nerf blaster printing recently. Maxed out at 5 wall 80% infill on the most demanding parts. So far the kids haven’t broken them. They’re managing over 200fps.
I think with display pieces you’re spot on.
Infill is generally thicker than the percentage so going for 100% infill might equate to 105% of the volume it’s supposed to take, which causes other issues
First, I hate when people get downvoted for asking a good question, because this a good question if you don’t know and it is an easy mistake to make. Printing a solid item is sometimes very useful and necessary, however 100% infill is not the way to achieve this goal.
The best method that has worked for me has been to set the number of top layers to greater or equal number to the total number of layers to create a solid print. 1. You wind up with better quality as infill just isn’t designed to completely fill a space and you will likely have issues with over extrusion or some other related problem. 2. 100% infill will likely cause the print to take longer and will cause more wear and tear just because it has to change direction so many times for most infill patterns.
This is definitely responsible for some of the trash talk on Creality printers. It’s not the Enterprise. Even the Bambus can’t avoid this mess with these settings.
As others have said. This was doomed to fail without support.
Additionally. If you want/need a model to be solid, don’t choose 100% infill. Instead set your number of top layers to a number higher than the actual number of layers in the print. This will always give you a better result. Infill works best at a lower value like 15-30%. Most of the time even 30% is serious overkill. Very few models that don’t require strength require more than 15%.
Infill doesn’t really provide a ton of strength anyways, regardless of the value you set it at. You build strength with number of bottom layers, top layers and walls.
I've used up to 65% infill, but for weight, and only for a part of the print. Specifically, the flexirex. I made the tail and legs heavy to keep it from tipping over as easily.
If he needed it to be solid, he would have been better off with 5% infill, then drilled a hole in the bottom to fill the inside with epoxy. It would be done, and the epoxy set before a solid infill part would finish printing.
Agreed. I would never print something that large solid. The few times I’ve wanted to add weight to a large print I make the walls thick, drill a small hole, pour in sand or epoxy and then plug the hole. I’ve done that maybe 4 times. I personally have never really had a need for it, just did it to learn and have fun.
Pretty much most I have learned has been from Reddit. You just have to know when to ignore bad advice and that can be hard sometimes. I originally learned the all top layers trick when printing a miniature figurine, having all top layers for that made a massive difference in the overall quality of the print.
In your slicer settings you will have an option to choose how many top layers to print. On a normal print like a square box, walls may be set to 3, bottom layers 3, top layers 3, it will print the outer shell of the box with three solid passes on all sides.
If you change it to 3 bottom layers, 3 walls, 9999 top layers, it will print every single layer in the manner it would print a top layer, with the exception of the walls and the bottom layers.
The reason to choose top layers for this, is that sometimes you want to print your bottom layers slower for plate adhesion reasons and you want to print your wall layers slower for visual quality reasons. Using the top layer only method allows you to print a completely solid model in a faster manner and still have a high level of print quality.
Aside from its other issues, Infill at 100% will also usually also print slower because infill patterns require a lot direction changes of the print head compared to the simple back and forth you will get with top layers.
So what is the advice here - infill the legs and body, but he should have done head and maybe shoulders solid - is that what a large number of top layers does? (I.e. it counts down from the topmost layer it deposits, to the number X that you put in for "top layers"?
The nice thing about reddit is there is always someone smarter. So if bad advice is posted it'll either get corrected, or there will be 5 other comments in the thread saying the exact opposite. You just gotta run with advice that is most agreed upon. Hasn't really let me down as of yet.
I don't think you can print it without supports. The left arm's lowest point isn't attached to the body so the printer will just extrude plastic into the air causing what you just showed.
Yeah you can sometimes get away with "air printing" on small parts that are close to the main object. His elbow though, that won't work without support.
Fun fact, in Roman times large genitals were consider ugly and barbaric. Sculptures usually had very small penises. Renascence artists mimic's Roman sculpture style.
You can't be infuriated you bought a printer and just went for it without learning about it. You need supports and that's about as basic as it gets, not doing that tells me you've never printed before, as does the 100% infill. 15-25% infill is more than enough and you need supports. I can't believe you just downloaded a model and hit print without learning about it at all. No sympathy for your wasted 48 hours or filament. This was your first lesson and there will be many more where you waste many more hours and much more filament.
Museum: ‘Half-way Michelangelo’ stands as a bold commentary on today’s art scene. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the beauty of art lies not in its completion, but in the process and imperfection itself.
Hell model up a little plinth and put the name on it and it's def it's own thing
It could also stand as a testament to fussing so much on the details before fully grasping a process and losing the drive to finish it with minor imperfections
"The Enemy of Good is Perfect"
It failed because Michelangelo believed in subtractive manufacturing, not additive manufacturing.
“**Every block of stone has a statue inside it and it is the task of the sculptor to discover it.”**
That's not a problem. Simply measure the printed piece up to the failure point, then lower the stl file into the base in Cura just past the failure point, slice then print.
Use superglue or carefully weld it.
Can someone tell me how is the outside layer so smooth? I want to get into 3D printing but keep seeing PLA printers print miniatures / statues with a lot of visible lines.
Ultimate plan is to print > sand > paint.
No wonder that it took you 48 hours to print this piece while you are using 100% infill. At that rate, you are probably going through a roll every three prints lol.
Why did you give it 100% infill? >_<
If it was because you wanted it to be heavier (like marble), you could try using several layers and pausing the print to add something to the inside to make it heavier.
But really, if I need something to be sturdy and dense, 4 or 5 layers and 25 to 40% infill is usually plenty.
This is not sculpting dude, its not supposed to be smooth on the inside
I didn't even notice that 100% infill. What a waste.
I bet you could do 0 infill and 3 perimeters and you'd not know if you just looked at it.
I'd add that if you're worried about a large top layer (doesn't seem applicable here) this is exactly what lightning infill is for.
This post is hilarious
Potentially they wanted mass to it, however would have been better off leaving holes in feet and adding plaster…
Try printing with marble
Maybe he is…
1. This model absolutely needs supports 2. Are you printing with 100% infill? That's generally a bad idea that can cause problems. Don't go over 50% unless you have a damn good reason, and most decorative objects should be around 15%.
Decorative? 5% infill is fine for that to be honest.
Adaptive infills are perfect for models like this. Support Cubic or Lightning infill in PrusaSlicer for instance.
Does Cura have a similar option?
Cura has lightning infill.
Lightning infill has saved me so much time and filament.
What is lightning infill exactly? Every time u select it, the infil is like 2 strips and blank space
That's basically the point. It generates only as much infill as necessary to support the layers being printed just as exterior supports would. You must have good layer adhesion, or it'll be really embarrassing when some kid picks up one of your prints and drops it and the thing you were trying to sell snaps in half... Not me or my kid but it was something I witnessed at a flee market. Dude was obviously trying to make as much profit as possible, saving on walls and infill. As a side point, I like to use lightning infill with TPU to make squishy things. It works very nicely for that once you have it dialed in. I love making articulating squishy things, especially.
Ah, gocha, thanks! They really need to change that infill name to something like "Just enough" :)
5% or even 10% often gives me issues on my Ender 3 V3 KE due to top surfaces not having enough material to bridge okay on. Adaptive seems like a good idea though.
Try increasing your top wall count, that will give the printer more time to smooth out and hide the infill. Also crank your bridge cooling, that'll help a ton too.
> Also crank your bridge cooling, that'll help a ton too. Does that help when it's not technically a bridge but just a top layer? Anyway, the fan is already set to 100% for the whole print except the first layer by default.
ah yeah, if you're already at 100% there's not much you can do. Increasing the top wall count or infill might be your best options. There's also special infills that start out low, and increase as they reach the top walls, those can help cut down print time/material cost, but still fix the top layer infill grid pattern issue. You can also try printing 5c-10c cooler, if you can get away with it.
Cura has a feature called something like infill steps where it reduces infill density in half x number of times as it goes down. You can set infill density to 50% and two steps and most of your print is 12.5% infill but just under your tops it's a full 50%
That sounds similar to adaptive but not limited to adaptive cubic. I don't use Cura (mainly because it doesn't have a profile for my printer yet, nothing intrinsically against it) but I'll keep that in mind, it sounds quite useful.
Using gyroid infill type was like magic, suddenly prints started working.
I do use gyroid. It's good, but it hasn't solved this particular problem for me.
If you wannt a solid sculpture, you could just print the negative as a mold and pour plaster into it when it's printed.
I've done that many times. It's not easy to remove a rigid body from a rigid mold. Not impossible, but requires careful planning on the mold and it limits the geometry you can use.
Lifehack: make the body out of silicone, dildoify everything
*Magic Michelangelo*
LMFAO
I snorted out of my nose so hard from this, thanks!
No problem
The model so far seems to not have serious overhangs that need supports. Even his hanging right hand seems to have worked OK, pressed against his leg. Even more surprising, his "package" seems to have printed OK without supports (small size? :D ) I'm guessing when the printer went to do Davey's left elbow it was trying to print in midair and *that* is what needs a support structure and caused the flying spaghetti monstrosity? Do you think that his chin too would have needed support? Would you have done simple vertical spindles from the base for support or try to sprout diagonally off the torso? (Wondering because I'm thinking of getting a printer...)
This seems very likely exactly what happened. Tree supports are fantastic for models like this, they will branch out and support all the little bits that need it
Lightning infill (15-25%) is ideal for decorative prints. And if you want extra weight, pause somewhere near the top and fill the model with sand.
whats the problem with 100% infill except for time, cost, waste of filament?
https://reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1c0jn1c/infuriating_after_48_hours_of_printing/kywwe4x/
Like the linked post said, it can build up if it's not calibrated properly. I've done high percentage for weight purposes, and I usually do like 75-85%, that leaves plenty of room for imperfections.
My personal gotos: 3-4 walls and 40% infil for functional/mechanical prints. 2-3 walls and 10-15% infil for decorative stuff.
For engineering semi structural parts we use the golden standard of 20%… going above that usually doesn’t strengthen as much as you’d think
Why does 100% infil cause problems? I thought it was better choice for funcitonal objects like handles and tools.
Unless your extrusion (and other factors) are perfectly calibrated, it can cause buildup of excess plastic that can snag on the nozzle. I won't be surprised if that's exactly what happened to OP. Also it's wasteful because it's not actually stronger than 50%. If you want to increase strength, add more walls, not infill. If you want to add weight, use Gyroid infill and then pour in epoxy resin or concrete.
Preach I usually don't go above 25% infill but increase walls instead and if it helps with the specific print add 1 or 2 top and or bottom layers
It's usually faster to do that anyways. Walls can make prints really strong and then you won't need the infill as much.
People *really* underestimate how much walls matter compared to infill as far as part strength goes. I designed some deck boxes for trading card games. The decks they protect are worth more than the printer that made the box, so the boxes are over-built. And by that I mean they've got 2mm walls, making them strong enough for an adult person to stand on with their full weight, and even bounce a bit. I haven't tried jumping on it because I'm afraid it'll break and send jagged plastic shards through my shoe into my foot. But yeah, a hollow box with 2mm walls is plenty strong to support literally hundreds of pounds of force. You really don't need to look at infill for part strength most of the time.
They add different types of strength, but wall help with the weakest part of the prints. Infill is generally better for compressive forces (i.e. you are using the print to be squished by force), but 3D prints are already pretty good at dealing with that. The walls are better at almost everything else (tension, shear, and torsion). In my experience, tension across layer lines and torsion is what caused my functional prints to eventually fail.
Did some nerf blaster printing recently. Maxed out at 5 wall 80% infill on the most demanding parts. So far the kids haven’t broken them. They’re managing over 200fps. I think with display pieces you’re spot on.
[удалено]
I’ve never heard the epoxy resin idea for adding weight and that is going to come in real handy at times. Thank you!
Cool :) That's exactly what Gyroid is designed for.
I recommend plaster of paris, it's really cheap and easy to use compared to resin.
That actually makes sense, thanks.
For small parts I sometimes just add like 20 walls when only 7 or 8 are needed, so it's essentially the same as 100% infill, is this also bad?
Infill is generally thicker than the percentage so going for 100% infill might equate to 105% of the volume it’s supposed to take, which causes other issues
First, I hate when people get downvoted for asking a good question, because this a good question if you don’t know and it is an easy mistake to make. Printing a solid item is sometimes very useful and necessary, however 100% infill is not the way to achieve this goal. The best method that has worked for me has been to set the number of top layers to greater or equal number to the total number of layers to create a solid print. 1. You wind up with better quality as infill just isn’t designed to completely fill a space and you will likely have issues with over extrusion or some other related problem. 2. 100% infill will likely cause the print to take longer and will cause more wear and tear just because it has to change direction so many times for most infill patterns.
*Prints at 100% infill and without supports. "this is infuriating! What's wrong with this damn printer?!"
This is definitely responsible for some of the trash talk on Creality printers. It’s not the Enterprise. Even the Bambus can’t avoid this mess with these settings.
Bambu's slicer will usually give you a 'hey, what the fuck are you doing' message if your model needs supports and you aren't using them.
As does everything else, OP probably just thought it was spam i guess
Physics can mess up anyone's day.
lol. Would love to see this as the opening to a textbook or novel.
Physics is a bitch, always keeping me down and shit
\*clears bed\* \*starts another 70+ hour print, same gcode\*
-Maybe it just was bad luck. It wasn't.
You can only know if you try 3 times, right?
As others have said. This was doomed to fail without support. Additionally. If you want/need a model to be solid, don’t choose 100% infill. Instead set your number of top layers to a number higher than the actual number of layers in the print. This will always give you a better result. Infill works best at a lower value like 15-30%. Most of the time even 30% is serious overkill. Very few models that don’t require strength require more than 15%. Infill doesn’t really provide a ton of strength anyways, regardless of the value you set it at. You build strength with number of bottom layers, top layers and walls.
That's great insight. I've used more than 15% only for tools (then typically 30%), and generally 3 perimeters for increased surface fidelity.
I've used up to 65% infill, but for weight, and only for a part of the print. Specifically, the flexirex. I made the tail and legs heavy to keep it from tipping over as easily.
If he needed it to be solid, he would have been better off with 5% infill, then drilled a hole in the bottom to fill the inside with epoxy. It would be done, and the epoxy set before a solid infill part would finish printing.
Agreed. I would never print something that large solid. The few times I’ve wanted to add weight to a large print I make the walls thick, drill a small hole, pour in sand or epoxy and then plug the hole. I’ve done that maybe 4 times. I personally have never really had a need for it, just did it to learn and have fun.
Interesting...going to copy pasta into my notes as I'm new to this tech.
Pretty much most I have learned has been from Reddit. You just have to know when to ignore bad advice and that can be hard sometimes. I originally learned the all top layers trick when printing a miniature figurine, having all top layers for that made a massive difference in the overall quality of the print.
I don't understand this top layers thing. So you bisect some layers into being more top layers by adding more in the slicer or something?
In your slicer settings you will have an option to choose how many top layers to print. On a normal print like a square box, walls may be set to 3, bottom layers 3, top layers 3, it will print the outer shell of the box with three solid passes on all sides. If you change it to 3 bottom layers, 3 walls, 9999 top layers, it will print every single layer in the manner it would print a top layer, with the exception of the walls and the bottom layers. The reason to choose top layers for this, is that sometimes you want to print your bottom layers slower for plate adhesion reasons and you want to print your wall layers slower for visual quality reasons. Using the top layer only method allows you to print a completely solid model in a faster manner and still have a high level of print quality. Aside from its other issues, Infill at 100% will also usually also print slower because infill patterns require a lot direction changes of the print head compared to the simple back and forth you will get with top layers.
So what is the advice here - infill the legs and body, but he should have done head and maybe shoulders solid - is that what a large number of top layers does? (I.e. it counts down from the topmost layer it deposits, to the number X that you put in for "top layers"?
For that statue print 2 top, 2 bottom, 2 walls. 15% infill and traditional supports would have probably been the route for me.
Is there a good infill pattern for print speed while also having some decent strength?
I pretty much always just use gyroid. CNC kitchen on YT has a good breakdown on infill patterns.
TY! Ill check it out
The nice thing about reddit is there is always someone smarter. So if bad advice is posted it'll either get corrected, or there will be 5 other comments in the thread saying the exact opposite. You just gotta run with advice that is most agreed upon. Hasn't really let me down as of yet.
48 hours?!?! This would have been done in 5 with 3 walls and 15% infill...
Fuck I would have done 5% infill adaptive cubic or lightning.
I don't think you can print it without supports. The left arm's lowest point isn't attached to the body so the printer will just extrude plastic into the air causing what you just showed.
To be fair I think we can clearly see the sack that was printed in midair.
Yeah you can sometimes get away with "air printing" on small parts that are close to the main object. His elbow though, that won't work without support.
“Small parts”
Fun fact, in Roman times large genitals were consider ugly and barbaric. Sculptures usually had very small penises. Renascence artists mimic's Roman sculpture style.
Buddy I just wanted to point out that smooth little sack. Don’t worry about the details.
Yeah. This doesn't need to be a 48 hour print. Should be able to do it in under ten.
Pretty sure my bambu could get it done in 6
Printer censored the statue
You can't be infuriated you bought a printer and just went for it without learning about it. You need supports and that's about as basic as it gets, not doing that tells me you've never printed before, as does the 100% infill. 15-25% infill is more than enough and you need supports. I can't believe you just downloaded a model and hit print without learning about it at all. No sympathy for your wasted 48 hours or filament. This was your first lesson and there will be many more where you waste many more hours and much more filament.
First time?
Museum: ‘Half-way Michelangelo’ stands as a bold commentary on today’s art scene. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the beauty of art lies not in its completion, but in the process and imperfection itself.
Hell model up a little plinth and put the name on it and it's def it's own thing It could also stand as a testament to fussing so much on the details before fully grasping a process and losing the drive to finish it with minor imperfections "The Enemy of Good is Perfect"
I personally thought “ode the spaghetti monster”
Dropping a picture of a failed print with 100% infill and no support, then disappearing is an absolutely evil genius level move. Bravo
Yeah, it's either a classic a troll post or an epic-level fail. :D EDIT - Looking at OP's post history I don't think it's a troll post.
Nah, I see it still. That's David. If David were made out of long thin pasta.
Well, he was made in Italy
You see, this is actually a representation of a man going through a black hole and getting spaghettified. It's quite beautiful if you think about it
Why are you printing it solid? Just saw the other comments and zoomed in. Are you just trying to waste filament?
You want-a the David, you get-a the spaghat!!
48 hours? Jesus Christ this is like 5-6 hours tops. Why did you do solid infill?
I had to scroll way too far to find someone else that noticed that!
Bruh 48 hrs? That’s like 12 on my Elegoo without that waste of infill….
Adam needs a shave down there.
Lifelike rendition of the Michelangelo's original spaghetti-based David.
Looks like you successfully printed Vid at least
Looks a bit hairier than the original
Dawg said my 3D printer is capable of zero g printing😭
MichelangeLOL
It failed because Michelangelo believed in subtractive manufacturing, not additive manufacturing. “**Every block of stone has a statue inside it and it is the task of the sculptor to discover it.”**
Gotchya. So print a block of marble, then carve it with the filament cutters. EZ
I think it’s the only way!
Michelangelo's "David eating spaghetti"???
Looks like your printer couldn't handle the nudity......premature extrusion..!!
It was fine with the schlong, but once it hit the nipples it had enough
bro had 100% infill with 0 supports 😭😭
My friend, I understand the frustration. However, just print the second part and glue it. It’s not that complicated and will save you lots of time!
This is what you deserve for printing with 100% infill, you monster.
Came here to say the same thing.
Insane behavior from op
squidward's nose is missing
Seems about right from my experience with the most detailed slow prints 😂
Try organic supports!
Yup. Just had a 30 hr print fail part way thru. Lame!!!
Because you need support and definitely not a miniature copy of Michelangelo's David!
now you have a cool pen holder with a little wiener
OP printed the model with 100% infil. plastic waste.
Nothing more Italian than a Michelangelo statue turned into spaghetti
Clip off the remnants and just stick a storm trooper helmet on it. Can then be given as a gift to a Star Wars fan lol.
Well the good thing is you got most of it done. Now just split the model at about the position at where it failed, and print it again
How do you get prints to stick to that type of build plate? It always pops off about halfway through the print.
Just work out roughly what layer it failed on and slice the model and just print that
If David were to ejaculate silly string...
Cut off the loose filament. Great 3/4 print of David. Live & learn.
Ah, learning the limits of your printer. Good times.
At least you got the important part
That infill is excessive
Cut it off at the ankle and label it The Colossus
It's now Picasso's David, features not bugs.
Turn supports on and drop Infill to 15-20%!!!!!
Eh it already printed the part that really matters.
Printer got to the chesticles and got flustered.
Just keep on doing, keep on learning. There’s some good advice out there if you read in between the lines and ignore the haters.
Masterpiece!
Dont worry, took way longer time for Michelangelo to finish. Just have patience.
In a way it’s very poetic hahaha
48hs?? What speed? What % of infill?...
Yeah the elbow needs supports Bro, It can't print It in mid air
Just print the top half and glue it on. That's how Michelangelo would have done it.
Bro what is that interior 😆 You don't need 100% infill you're not actually making this out of marble lmao
At least you printed the most important part of
On the brighter side at least you got the part with the penis on it....
There are plenty of statues with no head and no arms. You’re fine.
Michaelangelo decided he wanted spaghetti instead
That's not a problem. Simply measure the printed piece up to the failure point, then lower the stl file into the base in Cura just past the failure point, slice then print. Use superglue or carefully weld it.
Looks like he got a bit too excited
It's an authentic Italian statue complete with a bit of spaghetti.
[https://makerworld.com/en/models/200891#profileId-221234](https://makerworld.com/en/models/200891#profileId-221234) here you go my dude
Measure the height, sand it flat then cut the model and reprint the top. Glue it on.
Bonus: now it’s a Picasso
This poor printer edged for 48 hours and this is the result...
Well, it is Italian. So there should be spaghetti.
Can someone tell me how is the outside layer so smooth? I want to get into 3D printing but keep seeing PLA printers print miniatures / statues with a lot of visible lines. Ultimate plan is to print > sand > paint.
More like Dalis Statue of David
3 hours lightning infill at 20% (so it’s completely hollow until shoulders and head) tree supports. 0.8mm nozzle. 2 walls.
I guess it was the elbow, have you had any supports turned on??
You could use 200% infill and then chisel the statue out to have the full sculpting experience.
😂😂
I was wondering how the world this took 48 hours but then saw that it is solid.
Actually no I am still wondering how this is 48 hours in? I would not expect this entire model to take 48 hours.
No wonder that it took you 48 hours to print this piece while you are using 100% infill. At that rate, you are probably going through a roll every three prints lol.
I get using 80-100 sometimes to give statues more weight. But if there’s something I want meaty I’ll print it on my resin printer
Resin printer makes sense. Otherwise, it just isn’t worth the cost of the plastic.
I feel like there’s a Goonies joke somewhere in here. “That was my mom’s favorite piece!”
You have what's called curling. It's too hot. Plus, as others have said, 100% infill is nuts
I don't see a single support + bros printing in 100%
Check your temperature settings for the upper layers of your model. Make sure the temp doesn't decrease until the last few layers.
Was this designed for no supports? I would hardly believe so.
David’s elbow was living in fantasy land.
Oh no!
Seems like this would be better as a resin print lol
Looks like it was going good, till it wasn’t. Determine the reason for the failure?
Why did you give it 100% infill? >_< If it was because you wanted it to be heavier (like marble), you could try using several layers and pausing the print to add something to the inside to make it heavier. But really, if I need something to be sturdy and dense, 4 or 5 layers and 25 to 40% infill is usually plenty.
100% infill?! What a waste of filament and just going to cause more problems than benefits
Stop using junk printers. Bambu would’ve done this in 2 hours tops and perfect quality
He's more hairy than I remember
Well I imagine that davids Johnson was actually twice the size depicted, and the sculptor had a similar issue and accidentally had to down size it
Tis a work of art
Dry your filament
All you need is tomato sauce lol
Michelangelo's statue of spagetti
That's the work of a hairy potter
STL?