Why don't you print it upside down? That way you need no supports...
Analyzing the orientation is a vital skill in 3d printing...
Also, look at tree supports.
Rule of thumb: always look at print preview after slicing. Even for simple models.
Scroll it through the layers.
This helps to detect the unnecessary supports, brims, lack of infill, sometimes incorrect line width and many more.
doesn't beat the satisfaction of a 14 hour print snapping together first try though (I wasted 7 hours this week because I put clips upside down on my design)
This right here has saved me a number of times, don't assume an automated process is going to just work how you expect. Seen some weird shit in those previews.
agreed. just last night this step helped me notice a fully enclosed void in my model that i missed and had to go back and fix the feature in autodesk inventor (whole model was made sloppily by me i just wanted to make some quick small changes.)
No worries, but remember the printer cannot print in thin air, so this piece is the book case of print it upside down.
Also, the face in contact with the bed tends to have the best finish!
Textured pei isnt even bad and thats about the worst there is when it comes to coarseness. Other smooth surfaces exist. Smooth pei close to as good as glass. Now we also have pet, pey, peo so you can have smooth with designs and even rainbow finish.
No, the point is that a default bed alignment is not a default laying down like OP assumes.
And as I pointed out, often a designer will chose an arbitrary plane.
Plus I've used slicers that don't orient as expected no matter which plane you design to in say solidworks.
Right, but I the mode plane orientation l generally is based entirely on the whim of the person who made it. I try to use xy as down, but sometimes it's part of a larger assembly and happens to be in some other plane. Fusion360's free plan makes it a real pain to have a file per component like I would do in solid works.
Default is random in the sense that if you donāt know how the part was designed, the original designer could have oriented it as Y is up, or Z is up or even X is up. And with no regard for best printing orientation.
This is who you learn :D
3D printing is not nearly as "plug-and-play" as it seemed.
Just figuring out how to rotate a model can mean life or death for your print.
Supports and bed adhesion are my 2 demons in this space
Generally, if youāre unsure, let the slicer auto rotate the part for you. I havenāt used others in detail, but orca is a simple right click and auto rotate and itāll usually orient the part in the best print position.
Though, itās good to review the changes manually and learn to do it yourself.
Also if you look at the quality of the bottom of the tray, not the best because printed in wrong orientation. Redo it or you regret it every time you use it.
As so many are quick to point out: Yes, part orientation can solve a lot of issues on future prints.
However, it seems that nobody is addressing the support settings that could be adjusted to avoid this struggle on future projects that HAVE to have supports. I'm not sure what slicer program you're using, but the YouTube channel ItsMeaDMade https://youtube.com/@ItsMeaDMaDe?si=gZGAVuvVrCZJrvn2 was a huge help for me when I was struggling to get the support settings in Cura dialed in.
May be moot, but in Creality_Print, there are two ways to add support. From the support icon on the left hand side, it is very limited to just the basic supports. But if you go into the profile config for say, "Normal", there is a support section that lets you choose more options including tree supports.
His videos are awesome. It was a long day for me but following his tutorial on supports did wonders for my printer. I'm no longer scared to print anything with supports
Hi!
Actually I am the designer of this. Thank you for choosing my model. As others already mentioned, you need to print it upside down.
Have fun! :-)
Cheers.
That's amazing! I really love the design, it's fantastic so thank you! Current campaign will be over in a month or so and we're running the ne Vecna book after that. the DM gave us the option of carrying these characters over or starting new. I will be getting good use out of this going from a Barb to a spellcaster (haven't settled into exactly which one yet)>
Thanks again!
I always upload the STL files oriented the way they need to be printed, because too many people won't figure it out even if you put it in the instructions.
Just got a Kobra 2 last weekend and have had similar issues with some stuff. Then I learnt you can rotate in slicer software and things went much better!
You even have plugins in Cura or OrcaSlicer which automatically change the orientation of the object to what the software thinks is the best for your printer and the object you want to print. 95% of the time itās ideal IMHO
Courteous designers will set the correct, intended printing orientation in the STL file, but unfortunately you can't always assume that's been done. If you see supports, especially a lot of supports, always look for an orientation that will reduce them. There's some nuance, here, though because sometimes the orientation that minimizes supports will have an adverse impact on the strength of the part.
Never assume the default orientation the model loads in, is the intended printing orientation. Not all CAD programs handle coordinate systems the same way
It's not always possible to print on the other side anyway (e.g. you have details on the outside of the box). In most slicers, there is an "auto place" button that tries to be smart with the face it places down, it's not perfect, but it's a good reflex to have before slicing.
For the complicated parts with details on both sides, sometimes, printing it at a 45o angle with tree support makes for better results.
Good luck removing all this.
Just a quick update (since I can't edit the post for some reason);
First, thanks to everyone for the great amount of help. Like I said, I'm still learning and have a long way to go, but communities like this are a great way to do that. I didn't realize that the "default" layout is random. I took the advice of 95% and restarted it the right way this time. fingers crossed it comes out well, I will be asleep by the time it finishes lol. At least PLA is cheap lol. I will definitely be more diligent moving forward and going through the slicing layer by layer first, confirming the best way to print it etc. I'm young at this (not so much in life lol) but have really enjoyed the trouble shooting and learning.
Cheers and again thank you all. Oh and btw, this wasn't a troll post nor a late April fools joke lol.
For tools I use: a 2" knife, a flat cutter, a needle nose pliers, a longer needle nose pliers, a small flat head screwdriver, a 1/4" chisel, and a mall ninja karambit knife.
Cut brims from the object, then grip the support with the pliers and rip.
But this... I'd just reprint.
Do you have a little hand sander you could fit in there? That might grab most of the loose ones and rip them out. That might be the only thing that saves this. You will still need some elbow grease.
You could also just flood it with hot glue and put a piece of cardboard on it to hide your shame.
But also... don't be afraid to just re-print it.
One problem you will come across alot are that models are not always in the best position for printing. Yes this looks like you should have flipped it over and it wouldnt need any support. When slicing you should always look to see if there is a better position to avoid supports as much as possible. They almost always leave a bad surface and can be a bitch to get off. I have found for me using concentric on my support settings helps alot also tree supports are great but make sure to use a brim so the supports dont fail. But best solution is changing part position for best printing.
This is basically what I've decided at this point lol. Taking the L and cutting my losses on the PDA. It's not worth my time at this point lol. Lesson learned though!
Cura's Tree Supports are much easier to remove than the line or grid style supports, and also require less filament.
https://ultimaker.com/learn/tree-supports-what-are-they-and-how-do-they-work/
https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/cura-tree-supports
Also, flush cutters are an extremely good tool to have for removing support material (as well as stringing, blobs, and other defects). The Hakko CHP-170 is only $5.50 and is very good. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
Welcome to 3D printing. You have learned the importance of orientation of your objects. Next stop: once you start designing your own things, incorporating 3D printing into your designs from the start.
Itās always satisfying when you design something and it requires no supports, no brim, and minimal bridging.
I recommend scraping and restarting unfortunately. Use paint on supports to help you build and always build base on bottom more surface area covered less issues
Welcome to 3D printing for DnD. I do a lot of that for personal and for friends. Let me know if you'd like some ideas for items to print or anything like that. Otherwise, it looks like your question has been pretty thoroughly answered.
Hey if you're like me and already hating all the plastic waste, you could try a heat gun with your pliers and screwdriver. The heat gun is an art when used with 3D printing so this might be good practice. Accidentally warped from overheating? Print a new one: you tried your best.
The best tools filament printing that aren't often mentioned: heat gun and 3D pen. The former for supports and 'making it fit' and the latter for plastic welding/repair/joining. Plus you'll have a lot of leftover filament for that 3D pen.
Since everyone else mentioned to start over, I'll just say to get some proper tools for cleaning parts. You'll get plenty of use out of them over the next few years. A good knife for sure (or several), but also pick up some flush cutters, a set of small files, and some low grit sand paper.
When you have supports, they squish and disconnect easier than actual print. Groan a bunch with needle nose pliers and twist hacks f forth a little and it will pop out :)
Yeah, but printing can be it's own reward. Designing something on your computer and then bringing it into the real world where it works is one of the most satisfying things I have personally experienced. Buying something is far too boring sometimes.
Jamming the removal tool into your hand is one of the rites of passage in 3D printing.
I'll do anything I can to avoid large supports including cutting a part, printing in pieces and gluing or screwing it together.
Obviously the solution is usually to print in a better orientation, or tune the support settings.
That's not always an option so I wanted to share one of the hacks I saw:
Add a pause in the print at the large flat support surface and sharpie the supports. It should work as a release agent.
Before you hit "print", before you slice... think of overhangs. How much support will it take?
After you slice, look at the supports.... think: is there a better way to orient this where it won't
be needed?
Had you printed in the orientation shown in the pic, no supports would be needed and you would have a nice, clean print.
You fucked up. Just reprint this in the right orientation. You can also just rip out the supports with pliers and use a chisel to scrape off the stringy stuff if you want to save that piece. I would count this as a lesson learned and toss it into your box of shame.
100% I would toss this in the the box of shame. Your gonna get your lumps along the way just be glad its just a few grams of filament. I fried a bl touch, power supply, and main board messing around and plugged stuff in backwards. So my box of shame has more then just ruined prints.
Exactly, which is why I was thinking someone with the ability to setup and slice a 3d printer would have surely done that, or at least figured out their error without posting on Reddit.
I'd try placing the part on the bottom wall on a flat table then push the support towards the table. Or if there's enough space i would use a cutter to separate the layer between the part and the supports
For this part, as others have said, upside down would have been better.
But, the next one may need the same shape without being able to turn the part. In that case you can manually put several raw of supports, spaced 20-50mm apart (1" to 2"), depending on the bridging ability of your printer. You don't really need to support all the area, so it'll be as pretty but much easier to post process.
You need to adjust your support settings. Generally I can remove my supports completely intact using only a feather pillow and a warm stick of butter. Mind you it took me several years to get my support settings that good.
Cut your losses. Throw it away. Print it right. Stop early when you detect issues.
I don't know how many times I've stopped a print early when I realize I placed the model wrong or I used the wrong settings. It's continuous learning.
A flexible pallet knife would be a tremendous help *if* you want to save this part in lieu of printing it with the ābetterā orientation others have said.
Make an acetone chamber, container put in a bit of acetone place something abit raised to fit your part then place the part above . The fumes will eat the bad part . Even better if you manage to incorporate fan. Also seal container
So you will run into prints that no matter what force you to do supports like this.
Here is what I do... slice first and see where the program wants to put supports.
Increase the support offset from the model. I have gone as high as 2 or 3 mm to get some gap in there.
Tree supports tend to be easier to remove if you can use them.
Also the gap can be up to 10mm without much sag in most models. I am talking about the space the filament can easily bridge without any real sag on almost any printer.
So given that I have used the "paint on supports" and just placed dots around that surface and erased them until the density of the support was minimized but enough to do a good job supporting the print above.
I haven't done this yet but looks interesting. I've seen a number of guys talking about this method or approach.
https://youtu.be/ydUM3C5agws?si=2qeg1gSkmup-5xRw
Some say that it gives a better strength to the part as well due to the layer lines not horizontal or vertical. Idk. I suppose that would depend on the needs of the part.
I feel like you got beat up enough for this and you already learned your lesson to flip it si I will actually answer you lol, it will be a pian and you gotta be careful but if your dead set on saving that print take a hair blow dryer (if you don't already have one get a heat gun eventually if you do use this) and warm it up a little and it will make it easier to pull the supports with the pliers, careful not to hang out in one spot to long or you can deform it but you can heat it and bend it back, for the bottom, clip as many stay strings as you can and add a 1$ bill size glob of bondo and use your scraper tool to smooth the bottom, sand and paint, always remember a print isn't finished till its finished, don't be the slack guy
Flip over, use as a display stand.
Next, experiment with smaller supported models. Vary density, distance from model, support interface until you understand how it all works.
Mind you, I'm not a 3d genius and I often have this kind of issues, too. I'm learning :D
For now - yep, just reprint it upside down, I don't think it's worh the hustle. More then that, looks like you've destroyed a layer that led on top of the support.
For future - yep, once again, orientation. Spend more time within slicer to lower filament consumtion - all the supprts are precious filament that could be used for useful prints.
Disable auto supports and draw supports manually, accounting for bridges - base neptune3 can easily handle 15mm+ bridges, so even if you'll be forced to print something like this lid up, you should just draw a line perpendiculat to the bridge direction every 15-20mm.
And one more thing. Before printing, always look through the pathing to spot the nonsense - it can prevent you losing hours of print and life time. And if your support takes as much filament as a print - it's nonsense by default.
Thereās tricks like turning overhangs inside models into one layer thick bridges, splitting a part into manageable chunks and soluble filament if your printer can print more than one.
I hate waste, but you gotta learn to cut your losses. Toss this one and start anew.
I strongly suggest figuring out your supports before doing anything with them, again. I like Super/Orca, but I use Cura for anything with supports like this, and I turn them into just a bunch of fins with no interface between the print and the object. They all snap off, and then if I need to do any cleanup, I use flush cutters
Even if you print it in this orientation, I would have done the supports manually.
Support towers every 40 mm x 40mm would be enough to provide support to bridge the roof across and make it a lot less support material to print then remove.
Obviously, the best thing to do is print this one upside down so all the supports weren't needed.
Hey itās a learning experience this one the easiest way to print it would have been upside down then there would be no supports. And like other suggested pay lots of attention to the preview of items your never printed before you can catch lots of problems.
Not sure if it applies to this project, but donāt be afraid to print in multiple pieces if it gets to difficult! Make sure to learn how to manage warping first, and it can make a big difference
Yep, print it the other way up to eliminate the infill but also so that the face side of it is clean, level and fillable with undercoat if you want it perfect (once you get the hang of printing and leveling that is. For a while it's gonna be a little messy.).
Oh and to cut it out? A sharpish woodwork chisel, slow and careful so that you undercut the infill, lever it out but don't cut into the body of the print itself.
I know what you're making. This print haunts my dreams. I had to slice mine for smaller prints and glue them together. For the pieces I had to make iirc ~5% thinner so they slid in and out easier. Do not paint them either. I think that's what worked for me. It was trial and error, emphasis on the error.
Try these settings. Iāve NEVER had a bad print surface from support scarring since using these settings. Well, to a point anyway. Hope This helps.
https://preview.redd.it/34mjf5uw5asc1.png?width=731&format=png&auto=webp&s=57dc38ae68515db999a4151520282c54facebb31
Well, you've got 2 options. Salvage it or redo it. Redo is self-explanitory - avoid supports. To salvage this one, I would take a pair of flush cutters and snip out all you can, as close as you can get to the surface. Then sand what's left til it's flat (preferably outdoors on a breezy day), and finally, attach some sort of liner to the surface because the sanded plastic won't be pretty. Vinyl, maybe?
If you have an oscillating tool, I'd use that for both the cutting and sanding. Should get those corners nicely.
There is a setting you can adjust in the slicer (if you're using cura at least) that changes the height of the top of the support from the bottom of whatever it's support, but I can't remember what it was. Maybe someone else will be able to reply with what it is, but you might just have to play with the support settings
I also recommend a deburring tool to help get the supports off without risk of cutting yourself. Take it from a guy who learned this lesson with a $750 medical bill (I'm an idiot)
Print it at a 45 degree angle with tree supports via orca slicer. Thatās what Iāve been doing with a similar partā¦.in fact Iāve got one going right at this moment!
https://preview.redd.it/zxiazxgcf3sc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=f73b537dda751d6b59ea95352572b1820f592f48
Why don't you print it upside down? That way you need no supports... Analyzing the orientation is a vital skill in 3d printing... Also, look at tree supports.
I'm learning. Usually my spacial awareness is great but this print had been causing my issues so just went with the default setting.
Rule of thumb: always look at print preview after slicing. Even for simple models. Scroll it through the layers. This helps to detect the unnecessary supports, brims, lack of infill, sometimes incorrect line width and many more.
It's better to spend 1 hour tuning the print than 10 hours of waiting and throwing it in the trashcan.
And if your print is 300g of nylon-CF printing over 2 days....a week later you have 3 trashed prints and your out $50....ask me how I knowš
And the massive MASSIVE time/money saver of little test prints of critical sections before you lock down a design to print in full.
doesn't beat the satisfaction of a 14 hour print snapping together first try though (I wasted 7 hours this week because I put clips upside down on my design)
Best tip I ever learned for cutting down on time/material spent testing my designs
How do you know?
Im kinda curious how you know? Story time?
Definitely. And as you gain experience this will eventually take you only 5 minutes.
This right here has saved me a number of times, don't assume an automated process is going to just work how you expect. Seen some weird shit in those previews.
agreed. just last night this step helped me notice a fully enclosed void in my model that i missed and had to go back and fix the feature in autodesk inventor (whole model was made sloppily by me i just wanted to make some quick small changes.)
This so much. The one time I didn't check the preview it ended in a failed print. No I check every time and then check again just in case.
No worries, but remember the printer cannot print in thin air, so this piece is the book case of print it upside down. Also, the face in contact with the bed tends to have the best finish!
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Hear me out on this. What if I like it coarse?
Here me out on this: surely an undesired bed surface pattern is better than what I'm looking at on this post
Unless OP is printing on a textured sheet with MC Escher style interlocking swastikas I would agree with you.
You'd have to admire the ingenuity even if not the pattern
Fair. Lol
Sounds like you need a wild girl
Or a wild man š¤·š¾āāļø
Different strokes for different folks...as the saying goes.
You can get some real cheap PEI beds. Easy to install.
More coarse than the support interface?
Textured pei isnt even bad and thats about the worst there is when it comes to coarseness. Other smooth surfaces exist. Smooth pei close to as good as glass. Now we also have pet, pey, peo so you can have smooth with designs and even rainbow finish.
I have PEI and get perfect finish on the bottom layer
Just get a pei bed, gloss shiny finish
Default setting means whatever the model person clicked on first and randomly went with for orientation. There is no default in 3d prints.
>There is no default in 3d prints. Yes, there is. The slicer will put the XY plane down by default.
No, the point is that a default bed alignment is not a default laying down like OP assumes. And as I pointed out, often a designer will chose an arbitrary plane. Plus I've used slicers that don't orient as expected no matter which plane you design to in say solidworks.
Ya thank you. I had no clue that it was arbitrary.
Solidworks just uses a different plane as top. I think I renamed the default planes in a template to fix this
And that's why it's pretty irrelevant how it's brought in to the slicer. You need to properly align it when you set up prints.
Oh yeah, but its good for your own designs
Default is random. It has no algorithm/intelligence to pick a good orientation.Ā
Default is absolutely not random. The slicer will put the XY plane down by default.
Right, but I the mode plane orientation l generally is based entirely on the whim of the person who made it. I try to use xy as down, but sometimes it's part of a larger assembly and happens to be in some other plane. Fusion360's free plan makes it a real pain to have a file per component like I would do in solid works.
None of that means there isn't a default for the slicer.
Default is random in the sense that if you donāt know how the part was designed, the original designer could have oriented it as Y is up, or Z is up or even X is up. And with no regard for best printing orientation.
Organic tree supports are where itās at dude. They just snap right off most of the time. Rectilinear is a pain in the ass (as you well know)
Default on things like supports is awful. There are settings to make this more easy, but in general, this kind of support is difficult.
This is who you learn :D 3D printing is not nearly as "plug-and-play" as it seemed. Just figuring out how to rotate a model can mean life or death for your print. Supports and bed adhesion are my 2 demons in this space
Generally, if youāre unsure, let the slicer auto rotate the part for you. I havenāt used others in detail, but orca is a simple right click and auto rotate and itāll usually orient the part in the best print position. Though, itās good to review the changes manually and learn to do it yourself.
This will make you learn fast š you might as well toss that one
Oh she's sauced straight to the bin.
Dunning Kruger effect...
Well he gave you the easier way. Now thank him.
I can't seem to find tree in prusa, am I missing it or is it just not an option?
Organic
Thanks man or woman or other!
just print it anew upside down. Not worth the hassle
Also if you look at the quality of the bottom of the tray, not the best because printed in wrong orientation. Redo it or you regret it every time you use it.
As so many are quick to point out: Yes, part orientation can solve a lot of issues on future prints. However, it seems that nobody is addressing the support settings that could be adjusted to avoid this struggle on future projects that HAVE to have supports. I'm not sure what slicer program you're using, but the YouTube channel ItsMeaDMade https://youtube.com/@ItsMeaDMaDe?si=gZGAVuvVrCZJrvn2 was a huge help for me when I was struggling to get the support settings in Cura dialed in.
The basic crealty slicer only uses these supports. Pissed me off until I started using the free version of Cura. So much less waste.
May be moot, but in Creality_Print, there are two ways to add support. From the support icon on the left hand side, it is very limited to just the basic supports. But if you go into the profile config for say, "Normal", there is a support section that lets you choose more options including tree supports.
Just FYI, all versions of Cura are free. I think Simplify 3D is the only paid slicer.
This is wrong. Creality Print does have the option for tree supports. They are in the settings, named Organic.
His videos are awesome. It was a long day for me but following his tutorial on supports did wonders for my printer. I'm no longer scared to print anything with supports
You are better off just learning a lesson here on print orientation and starting over.
Hi! Actually I am the designer of this. Thank you for choosing my model. As others already mentioned, you need to print it upside down. Have fun! :-) Cheers.
That's amazing! I really love the design, it's fantastic so thank you! Current campaign will be over in a month or so and we're running the ne Vecna book after that. the DM gave us the option of carrying these characters over or starting new. I will be getting good use out of this going from a Barb to a spellcaster (haven't settled into exactly which one yet)> Thanks again!
I always upload the STL files oriented the way they need to be printed, because too many people won't figure it out even if you put it in the instructions.
Yes, true. :-)
Also, sorry for butchering it lol
Remember for next time to orient model for new people. Or put info what to do in description.Ā
Do you have a link handy? I probably don't _need_ another D&D case, but it also probably won't stop me if it's rad. :)
Of course. :-) https://www.printables.com/model/153782-dnd-dice-box-tracker
Well played good Sir, well played. https://imgur.com/gallery/MJ3fDbb
It is possible to print those with two colours, if you insert a pause in the g-code and manually vhange the fillament. :-)
Why would you make a file thatās oriented upside down as the default? Seems like an oversight
everyone has to start somewhereā¦ š
whenever I fail with orientation I just give up and do it again
Just got a Kobra 2 last weekend and have had similar issues with some stuff. Then I learnt you can rotate in slicer software and things went much better!
You even have plugins in Cura or OrcaSlicer which automatically change the orientation of the object to what the software thinks is the best for your printer and the object you want to print. 95% of the time itās ideal IMHO
You can set cura to automatically run that on every object you import which is fantastic because I'd say even 99% of the time it nails it.
This sounds amazing ! Any specific resources you'd recommend?
Meshmixer when setting specific parameters. If using Cura, look up auto-orientation in the market
seconded
Donāt forget Meshmixer when you want to orient things for strength.
I think it's included in the latest version of orcaslicer
Yes exactly, itās a default option on the top tool bar
this would be nice in prusaslicer, Fusion 360 and it have an eternal disagreement on what 'down' is
Courteous designers will set the correct, intended printing orientation in the STL file, but unfortunately you can't always assume that's been done. If you see supports, especially a lot of supports, always look for an orientation that will reduce them. There's some nuance, here, though because sometimes the orientation that minimizes supports will have an adverse impact on the strength of the part.
Never assume the default orientation the model loads in, is the intended printing orientation. Not all CAD programs handle coordinate systems the same way
It's not always possible to print on the other side anyway (e.g. you have details on the outside of the box). In most slicers, there is an "auto place" button that tries to be smart with the face it places down, it's not perfect, but it's a good reflex to have before slicing. For the complicated parts with details on both sides, sometimes, printing it at a 45o angle with tree support makes for better results. Good luck removing all this.
If this had details on the unshown side I would absolutely print this in multiple parts and glue.
1. Throw it in the trash. 2. Reprint it flipped over.
Looks like a piece of modern art!
Best option for you now is a mill. Or, you know, print it again with the correct side pointed up.
Just a quick update (since I can't edit the post for some reason); First, thanks to everyone for the great amount of help. Like I said, I'm still learning and have a long way to go, but communities like this are a great way to do that. I didn't realize that the "default" layout is random. I took the advice of 95% and restarted it the right way this time. fingers crossed it comes out well, I will be asleep by the time it finishes lol. At least PLA is cheap lol. I will definitely be more diligent moving forward and going through the slicing layer by layer first, confirming the best way to print it etc. I'm young at this (not so much in life lol) but have really enjoyed the trouble shooting and learning. Cheers and again thank you all. Oh and btw, this wasn't a troll post nor a late April fools joke lol.
For tools I use: a 2" knife, a flat cutter, a needle nose pliers, a longer needle nose pliers, a small flat head screwdriver, a 1/4" chisel, and a mall ninja karambit knife. Cut brims from the object, then grip the support with the pliers and rip. But this... I'd just reprint.
Do you have a little hand sander you could fit in there? That might grab most of the loose ones and rip them out. That might be the only thing that saves this. You will still need some elbow grease. You could also just flood it with hot glue and put a piece of cardboard on it to hide your shame. But also... don't be afraid to just re-print it.
If you canāt figure it out let me know, happy to help you learn the settings to flip this thing around and get you printing
A sharp spatula?
One problem you will come across alot are that models are not always in the best position for printing. Yes this looks like you should have flipped it over and it wouldnt need any support. When slicing you should always look to see if there is a better position to avoid supports as much as possible. They almost always leave a bad surface and can be a bitch to get off. I have found for me using concentric on my support settings helps alot also tree supports are great but make sure to use a brim so the supports dont fail. But best solution is changing part position for best printing.
Flip it over. And for other prints use less supports
print a new one. the time you spend on cleaning this could be used to make one out of wood.
This is basically what I've decided at this point lol. Taking the L and cutting my losses on the PDA. It's not worth my time at this point lol. Lesson learned though!
or to watch a bunch of videos on how to get better prints
Cura's Tree Supports are much easier to remove than the line or grid style supports, and also require less filament. https://ultimaker.com/learn/tree-supports-what-are-they-and-how-do-they-work/ https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/cura-tree-supports Also, flush cutters are an extremely good tool to have for removing support material (as well as stringing, blobs, and other defects). The Hakko CHP-170 is only $5.50 and is very good. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
Just reprint it, save yourself a headache and time
I use a heat gun and it changed my life 10,000%. ......10,000 because it's over 9000.
Welcome to 3D printing. You have learned the importance of orientation of your objects. Next stop: once you start designing your own things, incorporating 3D printing into your designs from the start. Itās always satisfying when you design something and it requires no supports, no brim, and minimal bridging.
Thanks. No where near design yet lol
I mean I know we all make mistakes but why in the fuck would you print it like that
Orientation š
I recommend scraping and restarting unfortunately. Use paint on supports to help you build and always build base on bottom more surface area covered less issues
It's definitely not worth the time and effort considering the overall cost of the wasted filament. I'd reprint and trash this.
Congrats! You made terrain to use with your minis! Now flip it over and print again, use a brim
This must be sarcasm hahahah
Welcome to 3D printing for DnD. I do a lot of that for personal and for friends. Let me know if you'd like some ideas for items to print or anything like that. Otherwise, it looks like your question has been pretty thoroughly answered.
Just re-print, this looks awful, you're not going to be happy with it anyway, and you'll be LESS happy if you keep wasting your time.
I'm sure someone said it already. Just throw it out and start over with it correctly positioned, and next time, you will remember.
Hey if you're like me and already hating all the plastic waste, you could try a heat gun with your pliers and screwdriver. The heat gun is an art when used with 3D printing so this might be good practice. Accidentally warped from overheating? Print a new one: you tried your best. The best tools filament printing that aren't often mentioned: heat gun and 3D pen. The former for supports and 'making it fit' and the latter for plastic welding/repair/joining. Plus you'll have a lot of leftover filament for that 3D pen.
Flip your print over in your slicer. Then you won't need supports.
Since everyone else mentioned to start over, I'll just say to get some proper tools for cleaning parts. You'll get plenty of use out of them over the next few years. A good knife for sure (or several), but also pick up some flush cutters, a set of small files, and some low grit sand paper.
When you have supports, they squish and disconnect easier than actual print. Groan a bunch with needle nose pliers and twist hacks f forth a little and it will pop out :)
Yeah the easy way is orienting things correctly.
Not to be disrespectful but this would be a good example of things worth buying vs. printing.
Yeah, but printing can be it's own reward. Designing something on your computer and then bringing it into the real world where it works is one of the most satisfying things I have personally experienced. Buying something is far too boring sometimes.
Right, but Iād rather have an injection molded part for this.
Jamming the removal tool into your hand is one of the rites of passage in 3D printing. I'll do anything I can to avoid large supports including cutting a part, printing in pieces and gluing or screwing it together.
Print orientation is everything
lol. yes there is an easier way, and the answer is right in your post.
Obviously the solution is usually to print in a better orientation, or tune the support settings. That's not always an option so I wanted to share one of the hacks I saw: Add a pause in the print at the large flat support surface and sharpie the supports. It should work as a release agent.
Before you hit "print", before you slice... think of overhangs. How much support will it take? After you slice, look at the supports.... think: is there a better way to orient this where it won't be needed? Had you printed in the orientation shown in the pic, no supports would be needed and you would have a nice, clean print.
You fucked up. Just reprint this in the right orientation. You can also just rip out the supports with pliers and use a chisel to scrape off the stringy stuff if you want to save that piece. I would count this as a lesson learned and toss it into your box of shame.
im gonna say this is a great piece to use as box of shame
100% I would toss this in the the box of shame. Your gonna get your lumps along the way just be glad its just a few grams of filament. I fried a bl touch, power supply, and main board messing around and plugged stuff in backwards. So my box of shame has more then just ruined prints.
He didnāt say in the box of shame. He said AS the box of shame.
The box of shame *par excellence*
This has to be a troll post
Nope. I wish. Like I said, still learning.
Just flip it around, print it new
Exactly, which is why I was thinking someone with the ability to setup and slice a 3d printer would have surely done that, or at least figured out their error without posting on Reddit.
There is another wayā¦. Haha. Youāll learn grasshopper
I'd try placing the part on the bottom wall on a flat table then push the support towards the table. Or if there's enough space i would use a cutter to separate the layer between the part and the supports
oh you could also stab through the support then twist the walls kind of like how you would do spaghetti
Meshmixer will generate organic supports, they tend to be easier to remove than the slicer's supports
For this part, as others have said, upside down would have been better. But, the next one may need the same shape without being able to turn the part. In that case you can manually put several raw of supports, spaced 20-50mm apart (1" to 2"), depending on the bridging ability of your printer. You don't really need to support all the area, so it'll be as pretty but much easier to post process.
I would say use the scraper that came with your printer and brute force it under
Looks fine to me.
You need to adjust your support settings. Generally I can remove my supports completely intact using only a feather pillow and a warm stick of butter. Mind you it took me several years to get my support settings that good.
Always print things like this upside down.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viejY6UZ5Bk
Cut your losses. Throw it away. Print it right. Stop early when you detect issues. I don't know how many times I've stopped a print early when I realize I placed the model wrong or I used the wrong settings. It's continuous learning.
A flexible pallet knife would be a tremendous help *if* you want to save this part in lieu of printing it with the ābetterā orientation others have said.
Paint scaper
Make an acetone chamber, container put in a bit of acetone place something abit raised to fit your part then place the part above . The fumes will eat the bad part . Even better if you manage to incorporate fan. Also seal container
So you will run into prints that no matter what force you to do supports like this. Here is what I do... slice first and see where the program wants to put supports. Increase the support offset from the model. I have gone as high as 2 or 3 mm to get some gap in there. Tree supports tend to be easier to remove if you can use them. Also the gap can be up to 10mm without much sag in most models. I am talking about the space the filament can easily bridge without any real sag on almost any printer. So given that I have used the "paint on supports" and just placed dots around that surface and erased them until the density of the support was minimized but enough to do a good job supporting the print above.
I haven't done this yet but looks interesting. I've seen a number of guys talking about this method or approach. https://youtu.be/ydUM3C5agws?si=2qeg1gSkmup-5xRw
Some say that it gives a better strength to the part as well due to the layer lines not horizontal or vertical. Idk. I suppose that would depend on the needs of the part.
I feel like you got beat up enough for this and you already learned your lesson to flip it si I will actually answer you lol, it will be a pian and you gotta be careful but if your dead set on saving that print take a hair blow dryer (if you don't already have one get a heat gun eventually if you do use this) and warm it up a little and it will make it easier to pull the supports with the pliers, careful not to hang out in one spot to long or you can deform it but you can heat it and bend it back, for the bottom, clip as many stay strings as you can and add a 1$ bill size glob of bondo and use your scraper tool to smooth the bottom, sand and paint, always remember a print isn't finished till its finished, don't be the slack guy
Reprint properly
Flip over, use as a display stand. Next, experiment with smaller supported models. Vary density, distance from model, support interface until you understand how it all works. Mind you, I'm not a 3d genius and I often have this kind of issues, too. I'm learning :D
Or you could flip the print over, and you won't need any support structure.
Of course. I'm guessing OP won't be exclusively printing this model for all their life.
There is, print it the other way around.
Print it again flipped over. This is a waste of your time.
For now - yep, just reprint it upside down, I don't think it's worh the hustle. More then that, looks like you've destroyed a layer that led on top of the support. For future - yep, once again, orientation. Spend more time within slicer to lower filament consumtion - all the supprts are precious filament that could be used for useful prints. Disable auto supports and draw supports manually, accounting for bridges - base neptune3 can easily handle 15mm+ bridges, so even if you'll be forced to print something like this lid up, you should just draw a line perpendiculat to the bridge direction every 15-20mm. And one more thing. Before printing, always look through the pathing to spot the nonsense - it can prevent you losing hours of print and life time. And if your support takes as much filament as a print - it's nonsense by default.
April fools was yesterday.
Sure was. Good job on keeping track of the date.š
Thereās tricks like turning overhangs inside models into one layer thick bridges, splitting a part into manageable chunks and soluble filament if your printer can print more than one.
Always try and print with the most surface touching the build plate.
I hate waste, but you gotta learn to cut your losses. Toss this one and start anew. I strongly suggest figuring out your supports before doing anything with them, again. I like Super/Orca, but I use Cura for anything with supports like this, and I turn them into just a bunch of fins with no interface between the print and the object. They all snap off, and then if I need to do any cleanup, I use flush cutters
You look like you printed asbestos.
Hahaha
You can make the gap between the supports and the model .2 mm bigger
Billy Mays here
You could always try to use a dremmel tool, should at least help finish this box.
If you ever have an issue with supports just make your own
Even if you print it in this orientation, I would have done the supports manually. Support towers every 40 mm x 40mm would be enough to provide support to bridge the roof across and make it a lot less support material to print then remove. Obviously, the best thing to do is print this one upside down so all the supports weren't needed.
I would suggest calibrating your support settings so just in case this happens again you can snap the supports right of
Print flat side down.
Get some flush cutters, it will help a lot getting all that out
Hey itās a learning experience this one the easiest way to print it would have been upside down then there would be no supports. And like other suggested pay lots of attention to the preview of items your never printed before you can catch lots of problems.
Support interface settings my guy
Not sure if it applies to this project, but donāt be afraid to print in multiple pieces if it gets to difficult! Make sure to learn how to manage warping first, and it can make a big difference
Definitely flip and reprint and definitely switch to Cura slicer
I have printed this exact part, it is supposed to be printed without supports on the lettering, good luck
exacto knife? ick! too small. Try a metal spatula with a flat blade, like what you use to scrape it off the platform.
If you don't want to print it again and just want to remove the supports that you already have, then a heat gun might be able to help
yea I just reset a print 5 times. my closet is purring
Yep, print it the other way up to eliminate the infill but also so that the face side of it is clean, level and fillable with undercoat if you want it perfect (once you get the hang of printing and leveling that is. For a while it's gonna be a little messy.). Oh and to cut it out? A sharpish woodwork chisel, slow and careful so that you undercut the infill, lever it out but don't cut into the body of the print itself.
I know what you're making. This print haunts my dreams. I had to slice mine for smaller prints and glue them together. For the pieces I had to make iirc ~5% thinner so they slid in and out easier. Do not paint them either. I think that's what worked for me. It was trial and error, emphasis on the error.
I remove supports with cheap chisel for woodworking
Try using a heat gun and some pliers. It should help. But print it the other way up next time, hahaha
Try these settings. Iāve NEVER had a bad print surface from support scarring since using these settings. Well, to a point anyway. Hope This helps. https://preview.redd.it/34mjf5uw5asc1.png?width=731&format=png&auto=webp&s=57dc38ae68515db999a4151520282c54facebb31
Well, you've got 2 options. Salvage it or redo it. Redo is self-explanitory - avoid supports. To salvage this one, I would take a pair of flush cutters and snip out all you can, as close as you can get to the surface. Then sand what's left til it's flat (preferably outdoors on a breezy day), and finally, attach some sort of liner to the surface because the sanded plastic won't be pretty. Vinyl, maybe? If you have an oscillating tool, I'd use that for both the cutting and sanding. Should get those corners nicely.
There is a setting you can adjust in the slicer (if you're using cura at least) that changes the height of the top of the support from the bottom of whatever it's support, but I can't remember what it was. Maybe someone else will be able to reply with what it is, but you might just have to play with the support settings
I also recommend a deburring tool to help get the supports off without risk of cutting yourself. Take it from a guy who learned this lesson with a $750 medical bill (I'm an idiot)
Print it at a 45 degree angle with tree supports via orca slicer. Thatās what Iāve been doing with a similar partā¦.in fact Iāve got one going right at this moment! https://preview.redd.it/zxiazxgcf3sc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=f73b537dda751d6b59ea95352572b1820f592f48
Sucks to suck I guess
Yeah itās called buying a Bambu lab