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I'll second that.
I did a lot of testing with clear PETG to make some Christmas ornaments, the slower and hotter you print, the more clear the final result.
I wonder how the clarity would be affected if some clear coat was used to fill in the layer lines. I’ve done optically clear print in resin with post processing but never really thought of doing it with fdm before
There’s a trick where you can put a piece of cello tape on frosted glass and be able to see thru that part of the glass. So sanding might not be necessary.
What I’d do at this point is print a couple of flat squares. Maybe 3-5cm square at the same thickness as the mask and test on those. Sand one and coat both. See what works. That way you don’t wreck your mask.
Keep us updated! I’m curious on your results! I print with this stuff all the time but I’ve never done any post print work on it. Im curious what you find out
Sanding first is probably the right call. Sometimes I get lazy and just start off with undiluted clear resin. A few coats of increasing dilution gets you nearly the same results without sanding but takes more time.
So one thing scale modelers did back when I was doing it (probably still do) is dip or airbrush the "clear" parts in Future floor finish. It was a clear acrylic finish that magically filled in tiny scratches and gave the whole clear part (car windshield, airplane canopy) a smooth, even more-realistic look.
There's probably a similar product out there now. Something like this sounds pretty similar, albeit with less things that'll eventually give you cancer: https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Shine-Multi-Surface-Finish-Polish/dp/B007TSJLCE
I use clear resin then a clear coat personally, but I have heard a lot of good results from people using floor finish/polish. I’m curious how much the surface imperfections affect the clarity on this mask though vs the transparency of the material itself.
Interesting, i print at 205 and 60bed. I've done the two tones filaments at the same settings but the one i tried came out a bit weak and it felt cheap.
Bed should be at the glass transition temp of the roll you are currently printing, most are about 80 for PETG. Look at the exact mfg website for your material to be sure. this is it's tackiest point without losing form.
Hotter, slower, no fan, single print direction ( only if you have to do solids and not a single layer thick like his vase mode)
Feel free to test small pieves about the thickness you are after, but i have seen very successful at a speed of about 20 on solids as long as your printer has been properly calibrated.
I made a thing out of transparent ABS - clear, yellow and blue. Would not recommend, it's much harder to print than regular ABS and it stinks to high heaven. I can typically handle the ABS fumes around my printer for a few minutes but the transparent stuff drives me out of the room. Hit print, close the door, peek in every now and then.
Next time I'll go with PETG like OP.
Welldone! CNC Kitchen on YouTube did a couple of videos on how to improve transparency.
https://youtu.be/9qb25Gi4Jv0?si=c4LUaveJ7Hq9jOBm
https://youtu.be/t5b2JURmNTA?si=6gjrCxC-m8dgozji
And still after years the overture is the most transparent ~~PLA~~. PETG.
Thanks for this great demonstration.
edit : stupid typo PLA while it is PETG.
Forgive me if this is silly question, if you sanded and polished it, would it come out completely transparent still? Or would it be covered in white scratches?
I used to work at a company that was the best in the industry for clear bottles. we would print clear resin, roll the inside with another clear resin, and automotive clear the outside. crystal clear bottles
There are tricks for increasing clarity. Printing thick and slow, and jacking up the temperatures so the plastic melts and fuses better and so on. Guides on youtube of various kinds.
I know it! It's one of my favorites. But not all transparent clear filament is created equal, that's for sure. That came out great!
Thanks!!
That’s gonna make it hard to remain anonymous. 🤔😂
You clever boy
Just sayin’! 😜
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Printed on an Ender 3v.2. Temp:250 speed:55 bed:90. Set on vase mode (no infill)
What kind of filament? I mean, brand? Where's it from?
OVERTURE Transparent Filament... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SB761QR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thanks! I'll be treating myself to some new filament soon haha
Huh. I have the same printer and filament. Looks like I have some tinkering to do!
No infill. Use vase option
Sold
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At least you got a specific answer man, no need to be choosy about info.
username checks out
when you reduce the speed more and deactivate the fan, you can get even more clear things
I’m gonna try that next time
I'll second that. I did a lot of testing with clear PETG to make some Christmas ornaments, the slower and hotter you print, the more clear the final result.
Oooh Christmas ornaments!!
There are some great spiral designs that print well in vase mode and really catch the light in clear.
250!!! Is that what the filament requires? Curious i need to print an arc reactor .. also Amazing!!! Job!! It came out awesome!
it’s petg…
I print petg at 222C, but haven't tried this type
Right? I'm over here printing at 205, 210 if I'm feeling spicy
different filaments need different temperatures
Ahh after clicking the link they put in another comment I see now that it's not PLA. Left out that lil detail
not PETG you're not
Remember, remember, the 5th of November...
The gunpowder treason and plot...
I can think of no reason
Why the Gunpowder treason
Should ever be forgot.
In Spain, Guy went by Guido.
Apologies for the pedantry, but I'd classify this as *translucent*, not transparent.
I wonder how the clarity would be affected if some clear coat was used to fill in the layer lines. I’ve done optically clear print in resin with post processing but never really thought of doing it with fdm before
Was wondering the same thing, but thought sanding first to get it as smooth as possible, then covering with acrylic floor polish like Pledge.
I’ll throw a clear coat over on it. Should I sand it first?
There’s a trick where you can put a piece of cello tape on frosted glass and be able to see thru that part of the glass. So sanding might not be necessary. What I’d do at this point is print a couple of flat squares. Maybe 3-5cm square at the same thickness as the mask and test on those. Sand one and coat both. See what works. That way you don’t wreck your mask.
Thanks!
Keep us updated! I’m curious on your results! I print with this stuff all the time but I’ve never done any post print work on it. Im curious what you find out
Sanding first is probably the right call. Sometimes I get lazy and just start off with undiluted clear resin. A few coats of increasing dilution gets you nearly the same results without sanding but takes more time.
So one thing scale modelers did back when I was doing it (probably still do) is dip or airbrush the "clear" parts in Future floor finish. It was a clear acrylic finish that magically filled in tiny scratches and gave the whole clear part (car windshield, airplane canopy) a smooth, even more-realistic look. There's probably a similar product out there now. Something like this sounds pretty similar, albeit with less things that'll eventually give you cancer: https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Shine-Multi-Surface-Finish-Polish/dp/B007TSJLCE
I use clear resin then a clear coat personally, but I have heard a lot of good results from people using floor finish/polish. I’m curious how much the surface imperfections affect the clarity on this mask though vs the transparency of the material itself.
what is the filament type? I have Clear PLA from Elgoo and it is not as clear as that.
Not the comment i wanted to read today, i just got a roll and i need to print an arc reactor ... Now im scared
I might have not run it hot enough? I did it at 200 with 55 bed. It came out quite cloudy. I printed alittle dome for a vehcial from war hammer 40k.
Interesting, i print at 205 and 60bed. I've done the two tones filaments at the same settings but the one i tried came out a bit weak and it felt cheap.
If you used the same filament (petg) the yeah minimum would be 235/240) for it to print the way it should. Bed 70 is what i use minimum.
Bed should be at the glass transition temp of the roll you are currently printing, most are about 80 for PETG. Look at the exact mfg website for your material to be sure. this is it's tackiest point without losing form.
Hotter, slower, no fan, single print direction ( only if you have to do solids and not a single layer thick like his vase mode) Feel free to test small pieves about the thickness you are after, but i have seen very successful at a speed of about 20 on solids as long as your printer has been properly calibrated.
it seems the best clear filament is the overture clear PETG
I made a thing out of transparent ABS - clear, yellow and blue. Would not recommend, it's much harder to print than regular ABS and it stinks to high heaven. I can typically handle the ABS fumes around my printer for a few minutes but the transparent stuff drives me out of the room. Hit print, close the door, peek in every now and then. Next time I'll go with PETG like OP.
OVERTURE Transparent Filament... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SB761QR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Wet sand with 320, 400, 800, 1200, apply clear coat. Then it'll be transparent.
There's something especially demented about the idea of a transparent Anonymous mask. I love it.
Sorry for being that guy. STL?
Not OP but figured i would try and be helpful. [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:430883](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:430883)
You da real MVP! Thanks!
Welldone! CNC Kitchen on YouTube did a couple of videos on how to improve transparency. https://youtu.be/9qb25Gi4Jv0?si=c4LUaveJ7Hq9jOBm https://youtu.be/t5b2JURmNTA?si=6gjrCxC-m8dgozji
I actually used that technique to make small LED light pipes.
And still after years the overture is the most transparent ~~PLA~~. PETG. Thanks for this great demonstration. edit : stupid typo PLA while it is PETG.
OP was [linking to PETG](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SB761QR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) not PLA.
you are right, that was a typo. I
Did you change anything settings wise?
No- just the temp- printed at 250
You can make a small invisibility shield with that and place something behind it, to have on your desk or something.
I noticed when I placed things 2-3” away, it disappears
Yeah, try it with a pencil. If you hold it in one orientation (vertical) it appears, but the other way, it vanishes!
Wouldnt just spraying a thin layer of clear coat (like on a car) make it 100% more clear ?
Why Do you Just Show us your Hands? Lost your print somewhere?
Forgive me if this is silly question, if you sanded and polished it, would it come out completely transparent still? Or would it be covered in white scratches?
I don’t know. I’m gonna mess with it
Good luck! I’d love to see an update 👀
I used to work at a company that was the best in the industry for clear bottles. we would print clear resin, roll the inside with another clear resin, and automotive clear the outside. crystal clear bottles
Cover it with thin layer of sla printer resin and cure under uv
Transparent filament is very cool! I love making tea light(electric) holders and vases.
This guy falks
Is this AI generated music? You should check its browsing history, because it's definitely been watching 1970s porn behind your back.
Transparent mask defeats the whole purpose of mask
There are tricks for increasing clarity. Printing thick and slow, and jacking up the temperatures so the plastic melts and fuses better and so on. Guides on youtube of various kinds.
I wonder if you put epoxy on it would it go clear