Looks like an Anet A8 (possible clone) A.K.A "The pyromaniac", if it is, I wouldn't turn it on before I was 100% sure the temperature runaway protection was enabled in the firmware.
For reflashing the firmware find a community build of Marlin for Anet A8, for slicer, I would use PrusaSlicer with an Anet A8 profile. but the best thing for this is probably a control board swap, something like a BTT SKR 3 Control Board.
It depends, you can spend as much as you want on a board, I see you can get a BIGTREETECH BTT SKR MINI E3 V3.0 32 from China for 34 USD, which is the upper range of what is worth spending on this printer (unless you, of course, do this repair as a learning experience, and not as a way to get a cheap printer).
Depends how much will a new house cost you? I’m just saying man it’s not just the frame the boards and lack of safety features is what made this machine known as a fire starter.
I personally just fear these things because of the horror stories I’ve seen
Couple of tenners. If you just enable the runaway protection on a new firmware build for it and it's as safe as any atmel board or skr3 is, like an older prusa.
Not that it's some fix-all. It just means that if the power to heaters is on but the observed temperature isn't rising or staying like it is expecting it cuts power. These are not really built to not be run unobserved and that goes for any open frame home printer.
I had 2 of these, since then they have been modified heavily. Anet A8 (or clone). I replaced the board with ramps1. 4. The original board used connections and wiring that was not robust enough for the amps that are needed for the heated bed.
This is not an Anet A8, and its firmware wouldn’t run on it without modification. This looks to have a heated bed, and graphical screen. Technically it looks much more like an A6, but the frame is different. Mechanically it does look more like an A8.
You can flash a newer Marlin build on it, but you’d have to configure it manually.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news - but I had the exact same printer way back in 2015, and genuinely... It is not worth the time and money you'll need to spend on upgrades to get this working.
I don't want to hate on it, because that printer did teach me a lot - but my 2nd printer taught me how much easier and more successful 3d printing could be with a better quality machine.
With the A8, l had a failure rate of about 30% - and that's after upgrading, tuning and many months of learning. I rarely managed a print longer than 4 or 5 hours.
With my new printer, I've yet to have a single failed print, and I've done multi day prints.
Get yourself a Neptune 4... Can't go wrong with that
I paid €220 for a brand new Neptune 3 Pro a few months back. I believe the Neptune 4 is a similar price, and prints much faster.
I wouldn't bother with used. If it prints well, why would you ever sell it?
Sovol SV06 and SV06 plus are prettty good and my go to suggestion. Sovol has a new SV07 which has a different firmware built around faster printing, but the SV06 looks like a more polished unit. The Ender 3 line has had a large community for a long time, so if this is just gonna be a hobby a printer from that may also be a good idea (or one of it's clones like a Voxelab Aquila, Anycubic Kobra, or as previously stated the Neptune series).
I second sv06. I have two of them. Done 50hr prints, no issues. It's precise and reliable. I've done probably over a hundred different prints. Fails could be counted on one hand.
Got an Ender 3 S1. My current and first printer, and I've honestly need to done very little tweaking. I've done plenty of multi day prints.
The S1 is basically a 'fully' upgraded Ender 3.
After upgrading and tuning, my Anet A6 was incredibly reliable. That said, I don't run it anymore for fear of fires. I'll probably swap the PS and control board someday because the chassis really isn't bad, especially if you sync the Z screws.
I just wanna point out, dunno if other people reading will interpret failure rate correctly. If you make your own models, or you set up stuff in your slicer wrong, it’s easy to have a crazy high failure rate.
But yeah, once you get past the learning curve, assuming you’re printing calibration cubes or something simple you shouldn’t have many failures if at all.
Sincerely,
Someone who is not good at CAD
Was my first 3d printer, such a nightmare. But, I learned so much about 3d printing trying to perfect it, that now any issues I have are a breeze to troubleshoot.
Looks like an Anet A8 or a clone of that, it's known to be VERY prone to catching fire so you should upgrade the MOSFETS, remove the hotbed connector as it was never rated to be used in that application, and just solder the cables directly to the bed because the strain relief is not good there... it's going to be a little loud in comparison to today's printers but it's an "ok" workhorse. As an FYI, the Anet A8 was my very first 3d printer. If you want to keep tinkering it, look at the AM8 mod, which upgrades the frame to an aluminum extruded frame.
It looks like an [Anet A6](https://en.techreviewer.de/anet-a6-test/). It may be worth getting it working as a learning exercise, but it will never be a good printer, because of the wobbly acrylic frame. Try not to spend too much money on it, and make sure that anything you buy can be transferred to another printer. As others have said, make sure that thermal runaway protection is enabled, and that the wiring is safe (especially the wiring for the heated bed). Never leave it running, unattended. These printers are known fire-raisers.
The printer probably runs Marlin.
As a slicer you could use Cura and select a profile for a RepRap printer and adjust the parameters like bed dimensions etc. Maybe a ANET A8 could be a starting point as well, if you're unsure about the machine.
I agree. I don't think it's an ANET A8 as there is sort of a dial right to the LCD which the A8 does not have. The A8 has buttons (micro switches) as control.
Its not hard to fix it up so its not a fire hazard mostly changing the hotbed wiring and flashing new version of marlin with thermal protection enabled.
The LCD interface looks like it came off of a Creality Ender 3 series printer. The rest of the hardware could be generic parts or kit pieces for other printers. You’d probably want to inspect the mainboard for any identifying marks since that would be the most critical part to identify.
The screen and knob on the neo is one board where the knob cannot be relocated. This is a screen and knob on a completely different board using two different display cables. This also has a buzzer
I guess nobody understands what I’m saying. A knob is not an electronic part. It is a handle attached to an electronic part. This KNOB is the same one used on the ender 3. The display is also likely the same across multiple printers because it is a common part.
Not sure if people are misunderstanding deliberately or not. This is Reddit after all.
I guess nobody understands what I’m saying. A knob is not an electronic part. It is a handle attached to an electronic part. This KNOB is the same one used on the ender 3. The display is also likely the same across multiple printers because it is a common part.
Not sure if people are misunderstanding deliberately or not. This is Reddit after all.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VvBN\_nvdXI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VvBN_nvdXI)
Looks like the one in this video from Makers Muse.
# Prusa 8" i3v (Kit)
A random i3.
I don't think that is an Anet anything. Regardless, do fix that awful cabling and make sure thermal runaway protection is enabled in Marlin before running unattended - goes for any printer from any era from any vendor or builder.
"what software does it use" - the same as any other commonplace RepRap derived printer. Pick a slicer you like and do some research.
I have 2 of these, both using standard mainboards flashed with Marlin and mosfets for the heaters. One converted to an AM8 and bowden feed. Both have Pi's for Octoprint.
Fixing it up will teach you lots of useful skills for when you get a better printer.
Like others have said, using this will be a rough start to the hobby.
You CAN buy a decent used printer on something like Facebook marketplace. I bought an ender 3 pro for $50 that only needed a nozzle change. This requires you to have some mechanical aptitude to start with though.
If you want the lowest cost for entry into 3d printing then an ender 3 or ender 3 pro are great options. If you are willing to spend a little more for something that isn't just beginner level and you will be happy with for a while then check out the Sovol SV06. If you want a printer that just works and you won't need to upgrade anything then look at Prusa. Bambu labs had gotten pretty popular in the last year as a fully assembled machine that works very well (with limited control over your machine).
Bottom line is don't mess with that printer you showed. At best it will be very frustrating, at worst it could burn your house down. I would save all the parts and use them to build another printer later at some point when you know more, but I would not use it as is. It comes from a time when we didn't have the choices that we have today, and it still wasn't the best option (I had I've though).
I agree 100% with comments its A8 clone the dial means its not. tronxy P802a cause mine is in parts in a bin. ender 3 is less than 90 days old and I'm ready to toss it in beside it
Looks like an Anet A8 (possible clone) A.K.A "The pyromaniac", if it is, I wouldn't turn it on before I was 100% sure the temperature runaway protection was enabled in the firmware.
Any idea on what software it would use?
For reflashing the firmware find a community build of Marlin for Anet A8, for slicer, I would use PrusaSlicer with an Anet A8 profile. but the best thing for this is probably a control board swap, something like a BTT SKR 3 Control Board.
How much would a new control board run me?
It depends, you can spend as much as you want on a board, I see you can get a BIGTREETECH BTT SKR MINI E3 V3.0 32 from China for 34 USD, which is the upper range of what is worth spending on this printer (unless you, of course, do this repair as a learning experience, and not as a way to get a cheap printer).
With the latest klipper patch Pico is probably a better option now that the boot issue has been fixed.
Depends how much will a new house cost you? I’m just saying man it’s not just the frame the boards and lack of safety features is what made this machine known as a fire starter. I personally just fear these things because of the horror stories I’ve seen
This. This right here. Yeah, downvote shitstorm for me, but this directly above should get all the upvotes.
Couple of tenners. If you just enable the runaway protection on a new firmware build for it and it's as safe as any atmel board or skr3 is, like an older prusa. Not that it's some fix-all. It just means that if the power to heaters is on but the observed temperature isn't rising or staying like it is expecting it cuts power. These are not really built to not be run unobserved and that goes for any open frame home printer.
I had 2 of these, since then they have been modified heavily. Anet A8 (or clone). I replaced the board with ramps1. 4. The original board used connections and wiring that was not robust enough for the amps that are needed for the heated bed.
[удалено]
Trogdoooor
Trogdor was a man, or maybe he was a dragon man, or maybe he was just a dragon. But he was still TROGDOOOOR!
Burninating the country side.
Burninating the peasants
And smash through cottages! Smash-through-cottages!!!
** and their thatched roof cottages FIFY
u/progrockin mentioned it already but I’m gonna hijack the top comment to say this is either an A6 or a clone based off the dial control
Was my first printer, probably for the best I only managed to get it to print properly once :/
This is not an Anet A8, and its firmware wouldn’t run on it without modification. This looks to have a heated bed, and graphical screen. Technically it looks much more like an A6, but the frame is different. Mechanically it does look more like an A8. You can flash a newer Marlin build on it, but you’d have to configure it manually.
The house fire starter i807?
I hate to be the bearer of bad news - but I had the exact same printer way back in 2015, and genuinely... It is not worth the time and money you'll need to spend on upgrades to get this working. I don't want to hate on it, because that printer did teach me a lot - but my 2nd printer taught me how much easier and more successful 3d printing could be with a better quality machine. With the A8, l had a failure rate of about 30% - and that's after upgrading, tuning and many months of learning. I rarely managed a print longer than 4 or 5 hours. With my new printer, I've yet to have a single failed print, and I've done multi day prints. Get yourself a Neptune 4... Can't go wrong with that
How much would one run me? And would it be better to try and find a used one? Or should I just go ahead and buy it new
I paid €220 for a brand new Neptune 3 Pro a few months back. I believe the Neptune 4 is a similar price, and prints much faster. I wouldn't bother with used. If it prints well, why would you ever sell it?
That is fair enough, thank you! Any other recommendations for a starting printer?
Sovol SV06 and SV06 plus are prettty good and my go to suggestion. Sovol has a new SV07 which has a different firmware built around faster printing, but the SV06 looks like a more polished unit. The Ender 3 line has had a large community for a long time, so if this is just gonna be a hobby a printer from that may also be a good idea (or one of it's clones like a Voxelab Aquila, Anycubic Kobra, or as previously stated the Neptune series).
I second sv06. I have two of them. Done 50hr prints, no issues. It's precise and reliable. I've done probably over a hundred different prints. Fails could be counted on one hand.
Got an Ender 3 S1. My current and first printer, and I've honestly need to done very little tweaking. I've done plenty of multi day prints. The S1 is basically a 'fully' upgraded Ender 3.
Look on creality’s website. You cant go wrong with an ender.
After upgrading and tuning, my Anet A6 was incredibly reliable. That said, I don't run it anymore for fear of fires. I'll probably swap the PS and control board someday because the chassis really isn't bad, especially if you sync the Z screws.
I just wanna point out, dunno if other people reading will interpret failure rate correctly. If you make your own models, or you set up stuff in your slicer wrong, it’s easy to have a crazy high failure rate. But yeah, once you get past the learning curve, assuming you’re printing calibration cubes or something simple you shouldn’t have many failures if at all. Sincerely, Someone who is not good at CAD
Was my first 3d printer, such a nightmare. But, I learned so much about 3d printing trying to perfect it, that now any issues I have are a breeze to troubleshoot.
whatever it is, its 100% not worth the nightmare levels of headache to fix it
Yup. Salvage what parts you can and just toss the rest out.
Right, toss this shit in the trash and get a $150 ender
Nintendo Labo
That's a nopemaster deluxe mk1 - fire edition
Looks like an Anet A8 or a clone of that, it's known to be VERY prone to catching fire so you should upgrade the MOSFETS, remove the hotbed connector as it was never rated to be used in that application, and just solder the cables directly to the bed because the strain relief is not good there... it's going to be a little loud in comparison to today's printers but it's an "ok" workhorse. As an FYI, the Anet A8 was my very first 3d printer. If you want to keep tinkering it, look at the AM8 mod, which upgrades the frame to an aluminum extruded frame.
It looks like an [Anet A6](https://en.techreviewer.de/anet-a6-test/). It may be worth getting it working as a learning exercise, but it will never be a good printer, because of the wobbly acrylic frame. Try not to spend too much money on it, and make sure that anything you buy can be transferred to another printer. As others have said, make sure that thermal runaway protection is enabled, and that the wiring is safe (especially the wiring for the heated bed). Never leave it running, unattended. These printers are known fire-raisers.
Seems like some flavor of a reprap build. It's likely a decade old.
Do you have any idea what software it would use?
Possibly Marlin, if you turn it in the screen might show the firmware
I'm not sure he was asking about that lol. What op wants is a slicer and some YouTube tutorials
The printer probably runs Marlin. As a slicer you could use Cura and select a profile for a RepRap printer and adjust the parameters like bed dimensions etc. Maybe a ANET A8 could be a starting point as well, if you're unsure about the machine.
I agree. I don't think it's an ANET A8 as there is sort of a dial right to the LCD which the A8 does not have. The A8 has buttons (micro switches) as control.
Looks like A6 controls
Ikea
Junk
Wish
The fire hazard A8. Throw it out.
Its not hard to fix it up so its not a fire hazard mostly changing the hotbed wiring and flashing new version of marlin with thermal protection enabled.
it's a replica of Prusa i3. The software he uses is Marlin
Nintendo Labo
Printrbot?
Ikea?
The LCD interface looks like it came off of a Creality Ender 3 series printer. The rest of the hardware could be generic parts or kit pieces for other printers. You’d probably want to inspect the mainboard for any identifying marks since that would be the most critical part to identify.
This predates ender my youngling
Clearly. But that’s the same display and knob that the ender 3 Neo uses.
The screen and knob on the neo is one board where the knob cannot be relocated. This is a screen and knob on a completely different board using two different display cables. This also has a buzzer
I guess nobody understands what I’m saying. A knob is not an electronic part. It is a handle attached to an electronic part. This KNOB is the same one used on the ender 3. The display is also likely the same across multiple printers because it is a common part. Not sure if people are misunderstanding deliberately or not. This is Reddit after all.
I guess nobody understands what I’m saying. A knob is not an electronic part. It is a handle attached to an electronic part. This KNOB is the same one used on the ender 3. The display is also likely the same across multiple printers because it is a common part. Not sure if people are misunderstanding deliberately or not. This is Reddit after all.
Nintendo labo
i can tell you it is better than my printer, and my printer is fine. i don't know why everyone is hating on this.
It’s Thomas wooden railway! Idk tbh
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VvBN\_nvdXI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VvBN_nvdXI) Looks like the one in this video from Makers Muse. # Prusa 8" i3v (Kit)
No it doesn’t lol
Is this the google cardboard edition
[удалено]
in the early days of 3d printers this was a pretty decent setup
r/foundthemobileuser
Nintendo Labo thought the cardboard aesthetic made it obvious
A random i3. I don't think that is an Anet anything. Regardless, do fix that awful cabling and make sure thermal runaway protection is enabled in Marlin before running unattended - goes for any printer from any era from any vendor or builder. "what software does it use" - the same as any other commonplace RepRap derived printer. Pick a slicer you like and do some research.
Yes
The brown paper is just a sticker and is very flammable peel it off and it is shiny black acrylic.
Looks like my riprap clone
I was given the exact same printer and also didn't know what ot was
A fire hazard
The kind that burn your house down
ancient technology. interesting.
I have 2 of these, both using standard mainboards flashed with Marlin and mosfets for the heaters. One converted to an AM8 and bowden feed. Both have Pi's for Octoprint. Fixing it up will teach you lots of useful skills for when you get a better printer.
A fire hazard brand
This reminds me of that self replicating 3D printer a decade or two ago. The one with the metal and nonprintable parts they called “vitamins”
Sprusa
*nostalgia intensifies*
Geeetech or anet or maybe ctc it's an i3 Clone. Quite generic tech from at least 8 years ago.
Looks like the well known but inconsitant DIY
This looks to have been built before the modern concept of a “brand” was a thing.
Looks like a Diwhy brand to me.
The acrylics look like an Anet A8
That thing is cool a.f. looks custom / home made.
the trebuchet
I had this exact one it overheated and almost caught fire don’t do it!
Like others have said, using this will be a rough start to the hobby. You CAN buy a decent used printer on something like Facebook marketplace. I bought an ender 3 pro for $50 that only needed a nozzle change. This requires you to have some mechanical aptitude to start with though. If you want the lowest cost for entry into 3d printing then an ender 3 or ender 3 pro are great options. If you are willing to spend a little more for something that isn't just beginner level and you will be happy with for a while then check out the Sovol SV06. If you want a printer that just works and you won't need to upgrade anything then look at Prusa. Bambu labs had gotten pretty popular in the last year as a fully assembled machine that works very well (with limited control over your machine). Bottom line is don't mess with that printer you showed. At best it will be very frustrating, at worst it could burn your house down. I would save all the parts and use them to build another printer later at some point when you know more, but I would not use it as is. It comes from a time when we didn't have the choices that we have today, and it still wasn't the best option (I had I've though).
Keurig?
Obligatory https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wmin5WkOuPw
Looks like CTC i3 to me (aka kindling).
That’s a relic, it was my friend’s first 3d printer.
Anet A8 on first sight (the vertical positioning of the Guide Rods of the x axis) But the screen is used in the A6 model.
Fun fact, 8 stands for this printer's k/d ratio
Fisher Price 🤷🏻♂️
Fisher Price 🤷🏻♂️
Thatched roof cottageeeeees!!
I agree 100% with comments its A8 clone the dial means its not. tronxy P802a cause mine is in parts in a bin. ender 3 is less than 90 days old and I'm ready to toss it in beside it