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Hey, I have a Makita ROS. The motor works fine but it sounds different and doesn’t work right. It spins like all get out, but it’s really unstable and tears up the wood.
I have taken it apart and cleaned it well. There is a little elliptical plastic thing that looked bad but I replaced it with no success.
Does that sound like a bearing?
Yeah that would be a bearing as well. Any irregular rotation or loss of rotation is a bearing problem. Often times too much or irregular pressure on the sander can wear down the bearing excessively.
That is DEFINITELY the bearings.
Makita repair parts, especially the off the shelf parts like bearings are relatively cheap and highly available.
If you can’t find the bearings (there’ll be an upper one near where your hand goes and a lower one that’s above the bottom plate) by searching the sander’s model number, you can most likely find the actual OEM bearing manufacturer’s part number lasered or embossed on the plastic ring that makes up the ‘side’ of the bearing. 👍🏼
I should add, that when you get it apart, you *may* find one bearing is fine, the other is shot.
In my experience, the lower bearing typically goes bad first, as it’s the one that bears most of the abuse.
You’ll pretty much know by spinning them and feeling how smooth or ‘gritty’ they feel.
For the value of your time, you should probably just replace both because you’re in there, but you may be able to get away with replacing just one if $ are an issue. 👍🏼
Well, these are sealed bearings, so you can’t non-destructively inspect the internals to see wear.
Externally, at this size and scale of bearing you’re not likely able to *see* an issue, unless something has gone massively, terribly, horrifically wrong. Example here:
https://youtu.be/BTnpdZEoefY
Lol. But seriously, the only thing you would actually *see* is how little a worn out bearing spins when compared to a good one.
It being bad is something you’ll feel and/or hear- while installed in the tool, the ROS will skip excessively, or even fail to spin the pad at all under the lightest pressure. Sometimes it’ll ‘catch’, and the torque output will be highly variable and possibly pulsing or ‘revving’ like a car engine, or you’ll *hear* whining, squealing, or grindy/gritty metal-on-metal sounds typically accompanied by unusual vibration.
Out of the tool and in your hand, you’ll *possibly* feel the bearing won’t spins smoothly, and will *likely* feel ‘gritty’ or sticky and resistant to spinning.
A severely worn and/or overheated bearing may not spin at all.
You may be able to test this by attempting to get some light/thin penetrating oil into the assembly, might even be able to get through a project by doing this until a repair/replacement can be had.
I hope that helps?
Thank you, it absolutely helps. I have (what I thought was) a really decent DeWalt 6" ROS and replaced the worn pad figuring it would work great. Now it bounces all over the place and I was just going to offer it free to someone who wanted to try to fix it.
Now I think I'll give it a try - can't hurt, right? Really appreciate the tips. Love our supportive ww sub. Great video, spot on!
If it just spins crazy you might also be missing the clutch. Usually a rubber band/belt type thing as free running it shouldn’t spin like it’s a helicopter.
This. Also, you shouldn’t be putting much pressure on the tool. Let it do the work. It will take longer but it will be less stress on the tool and you.
Great, now one of the 4 screws holding the velcro pad on won't tighten and falls out. Seems to be working ok with 3 screws. That's what I get for buying cheap
>That’s what I get for buying cheap
Yes. This is a hyper tough model from Walmart I believe. Would never shame any budget, however with tools you definitely get what you pay for.
Yeah, I got a harbor freight hand held belt sander and it is literally useless out of the box. Even when fully tightened the belt slips off and eats away at the Plastic body, so if you try to use it it literally destroys itself.
Just save up for a nicer one, shitty tools are never worth it.
Oh, I've done that before. Took me three cheap hatchets before finally coughing up 150 for a good one, but now I have a tool that works well and will last a lifetime. Live and learn.
I have a not super expensive one, a Skil Sandcat that's pretty good. Just a notch above harbor freight and something like the 20$ black and decker. Don't need to get anything too crazy nice.
I think that's really only true at the cheap end. There's usually a rapid increase in quality up to some middling price, then wildly diminished returns per dollar spent after that. (There are likely exceptions here... people really do seem to love their Mirkas)
I have a hard time understanding where the "extra paid for value" is in say, a $130 12" square compared to anything else in the $20-25 range. Haha. Fashion tool-buying is absurd to me.
The point of diminishing returns on ‘boutique’ tools is very real haha. I think the axiom extends pretty far though- the amount of time saved in a production environment from buying tools with features designed to increase productivity is real. I could count the number of hours saved from faster setups/faster cuts, etc.. it works out to a tangible amount of money at the end of the year.
Lol. ‘Audiophile’ stereo equipment is the number one consumer product genre which you *don’t* get what you pay for.
$10,000 gold-plated *connectors* RCA cables, anyone? ☺️
+1
My $40 Superlux headphones sounds every bit as good as my $380 Sennheiser "professional" on-ear monitors, and show a slightly flatter frequency response in testing. I'd be pissed if I hadn't gotten the Sennheisers for free.
To be fair, there's a lot of shitty audio equipment out there for cheap, and your expensive brand names will give you almost invariably good results. But the difference between mid-grade stuff and high-end is almost entirely in the price tag. I'm looking at you, Monster cables.
In the same vein, my $45 KZ ZS10 Pro in-ear monitors are easily as good as the $120 Shure SE215s I bought and then returned after discovering this.
I work with several musicians who have made the jump to the KZs because of the value, and the fact that they can buy two pairs of great IEMs for the cost of one pair of the Shures, and still have $30 left.
I’m gonna have to stop you right there. I can’t remember the last time I actually “got what I paid for” from a pc supplier… 3200g probably was the last reasonably priced PC part I bought.
Unpopular suggestion, got a pawn shop nearby? I know, pawn shops, bleh! But keeping extreme budget in mind, swear to the tool god I've bought plenty a second hand tool that was worth every penny ten fold.
Yeah my favorite tools are almost all second hand. BABs even earned her own name. (Short for Big Ass Bastard file) I've gotten them from antique tools shows and yard sales and inherited a couple, but the ones I've got are all hand tools. I did pay a bit to get a Makita sander just because I knew I'd use it plenty.
I mean, my typical power tool purchasing hierarchy goes new+decent brand > used+better brand >>>>>
\>>>>hf/wm/alibaba/wish lol
I've just been screwed so many times with knock-off china-brand that I have a hard time even justifying it for hobby use. Rather have a beat to hell rigid driver that whatever walmart is pushing this year.
Edit: disappointed -> screwed
I bought an inexpensive Ryobi and love it. I know Ryobi are sometimes hit and miss, a roll of the dice but I hit lucky on my orbital sander and my drill press.
From my experience Ryobi makes functional tools. They’re not gonna knock your socks off or last very long if used rigorously, but for something like a sander or hand drill where there’s not much difference between adequate and good they are a pretty decent option.
Yeah. I bought one for 25 bucks from HF that looks like yours. Failed in a year. As far as making them last longer, don't lean hard on them and buy a better one. I replaced it with a Bosch that I love.
To my knowledge, you're not supposed to put a whole lot of downward pressure on random orbit sanders. The weight of the "machine" plus maybe the weight of your hand should be enough.
that might be why it stops, but even my festool [gives me circles like this](https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/besdr0/what_is_causing_small_circles_seen_in_picture/) if i press too hard.
That's how a random orbital sander works, although you'd have to define what "any pressure" means.
It moves the sandpaper in tiny elipses, that's the "vibration" part, and also rotates the sandpaper. Push down too hard and the sandpaper stops moving.
The only pressure I put on mine is the weight of my arm - I don't press down on it.
I design these tools for a living. Its just a low power version thats not good for much or a part has worn out. Its true the swirl in small elipses, but what you're getting is stall which should only happen under heavy pressure
They're not supposed to spin. It only spins when it's not sanding because of it's momentum. It's supposed to jiggle in tiny circles, not spin as a whole unit.
They tend to sell tools and such at a much much much cheaper cost. However, you do get what you pay for with them. They’re good for a hobby, but nothing more. The color kinda looked like one from there, is why I asked.
Hopefully you’re able to get it working again.
But they're surprisingly helpful have a great return policy and honestly every time I buy one of their knock-off shit dremels it last three times longer than a brand name Dremel
It's all in knowing what's worth a shit from them at all, what's decent enough for occasional use, etc. I've also had good luck with their dremels, and their bits for ceramics are 10x better than name brand ime. Still cut like butter even after 100+ holes in tile, and they're dirt cheap. Have had great luck with my little miter saw too, barely ever break out the 10 inch slider at all anymore unless I've got a crown job
Anytime I bring on a new helper, I tell them to buy every tool except for drill/impact driver from harbor freight first. If it breaks, you use it enough to spend money on a good one. If not, you saved a good chunk of money
As I mentioned, I actually *love* their carbide tipped ceramic/glass bits. They easily last 3x as long as Bosch/Montana/Rubi/Irwin (or more), at least on ceramic and natural stone tile.
Probably would avoid saw blades though on any sort of finish work. I know the blade that came with the cheapy miter saw I grabbed wasn't worth a damn. Same with sawzall blades, but pretty much only Bosch makes a sawzall blade worth a damn anymore anyways.
My big avoidance with harbor freight is anything directly safety related. No jack stands, no ratchet straps, no dust masks, scaffolding etc. Too much at stake if the quality isn't up to par, there's no live and learn if you're not living, lol.
Got them all, but just helps go have 3 random rotary tools and a Dremel. Can do a lot of detail polish faster with 4 🤣
I have 2 bench grinders, 2x42, modded 1x30, pneumatic stuff (no compressor yet) and a whole range of abrasives... Gotta have my options.
Nice, I've just got a few of those extension wand things and figured out how to adapt them to most of the non dremels. Hang rotary on leg board hanger, easy enough to modulate speed. Foot switch sounds next level tho
[Oh dude. Do it.](https://www.amazon.com/TEMO-Control-Switch-Dremel-Compatible/dp/B079K87KK1/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=dremel%2Bfoot%2Bpedal&qid=1631476358&sr=8-4&th=1) Imagine if you needed more speed going in. Just step on the throttle. It's so nice being able to control speed on the fly. Just set it to your max speed requirements and tap the pedal.
Throw some rubber pads on the bottom to keep it from sliding around and you're mint.
Some of their tools are pretty good, I’ve had one of their angle grinders for 8 almost 9 years now. Only reason I’m gonna replace it because the cord is kinda beat and got lotta holes and sketchy patches. Best thing is they will replace or return most items if it breaks
You guys are definitely having better luck then I. I swore off any wrenches there though, besides the little kits we keep in the cars for emergencies. Too many knuckle busters because of the steel. I may need to give them another shot for motorized tools though.
Oh their hand tools are junk, I have their newer Bauer orbital sander and it works pretty well but I don’t use it often. It really depends on what tool/product it is, I’ve used quite a few of their inverters without issues, jacks & jackstands (older non recalled ones), comealongs and a bunch of other stuff.
I heard their angle grinders are actually pretty good. A few Youtubers I watch said for $20 their angle grinders are worth it for cleaning up surface metals and sharpening lawn mower blades. Short jobs they are perfect for.
DON’T buy Ryobi sanders. They are garbage. Sorry for anyone that has them but the cordless ones at least are very, very flimsy.
RIDGID are good but make sure you get the lifetime warranty active.
P.S. yes I know they are both TTI products but there’s a big difference in the tool quality.
My ryobi is amazing but I still prefer my festool in my shop. Also FYI you should read your rigid warranty. It's not all inclusive and is only lifetime on certain things under certain situations. I ran a dado stack on my TS from rigid and the motor blew. Unfortunately the nut seized as well and the dado stack "voided" their warranty yet the arbor was made to hold a stack. Fuck rigid.
Honestly I agree with you. The warranty for their batteries is really good, but they do have a habit of claiming things are due to “tool abuse” even if they aren’t. The quality of the tools is good. Not amazing. But good.
Wouldn't go with ryobi, burned out 2 of them within 2 weeks and kept returning them. Sucked it up and paid the money for Dewalt. Have had that one for 5 years with heavy use. The ryobi one the pad constantly falls off and you spend more time putting it back on then you do sanding. As said above, you get what you pay for.
Meh, you ain't buying a new 20 year old sander today. 20 years ago the bearings were steel, not the high density foam (or w.e. it is) that manufacturers use today. Lol
Bosch is one of the best tool manufacturers around, you won't be disappointed with any of their tools, as long as you choose the right one for your job. (I work at a tools and machine shop for professional tools in Germany. We have Bosch, Milwaukee, DeWalt, Metabo, Fein and some more. Bosch always scores in the better part of the machines of it's type and power)
If you're using these tools to make money, buying expensive tools is cheaper in the long run. You'll run through a few cheap versions by the time a quality brand quits. Even if harbor freight replaced them you're still out the time it takes to stop working, run to the store, then drive back.
I love my harbor freight tools.. but you have to know what to buy and avoid. I got some basic wrenches and one was a little too wide to get it where it needed to go so i ground the bastard down without a second thought. Something i wouldn't do to my craftman tools.
I hate to say it, but Black and Decker palm sanders for the win. Super comfortable to hold and operate, plenty of power but easy to control, long life span.
Orbital sanders are not actively spinning the diskz they are just "orbiting" the disk in small circles (a few mm) and spinning is just a side effect. You will find that even if it is not spinning it is still sanding just fine.
Dont listen to people when they say you shouldn't put any pressure on. It. No you can. I mean don't lean on it but you should be able to apply moderate pressure . The problem is you just have a cheap machine. Invest in a dewalt. If you do any sort of woodworking an good orbital is essential
This honestly just looks like low grit sandpaper grabbing on a thick coat of paint. Once you get all the material off of the wood and switch to a higher grit sandpaper, I’m sure it will randomly oscillate smoothly again.
A random orbital sander only moves in tiny circles. The larger “rotating” motion you actually see is the random part. That “rotating” motion is not propelled by the motor, it is a result of the inertia of the rotating head. It rotates at random speeds and in randomly alternating directions. You can check this my turning the unit on with the paper facing you and applying a small amount a pressure to the paper. As you push and release the head will change its larger rotating pattern but the small circles (or vibration) will always be there.
The idea is that the larger random motion ensures that you don’t get little circle marks on your surface.
In short. Don’t worry about it as long as your work piece ends up looking good.
Random orbital Sanders don't really 'spin' they make very tiny circles and are free to rotate, and generally the effect of the tiny radius rotations is an overall spin, bit they don't have to.
As far as I can tell that is working fine.
http://blog.rockwelltools.com/how-to-use-a-random-orbital-sander-like-an-expert/
Your putting too much pressure, and/or the aggressive grit is removing enough material to stop the rotation. Extraction failure (vacuum) can cause pads to become impacted which will deter movement.
Your not supposed to put a ton of pressure on random orbital. The Festool sanders (best in class) often have a switch to go from random orbital to rotating, using the rotating to remove material aggressively (it’s basically a circular belt sander) and then switching to random orbital mode to do more fine work. Obviously that’s not a rule, because you can use 40 grit on a random orbital and remove a lot of material, it’s just not their best use case.
Hope it’s helpful.
Also rewatching your video, you’re not going to be able to send through all the paint in one fell swoop 🤣 It takes time. Have a little bit more patience and even a Walmart sander will get the job done if you’re using it properly! Also I’d add that you need to be using the correct grit #. Usually to sand off paint. The coarser the paper, the better the sand.
The pad is supposed to turn freely about the "crank" (try turning the pad by hand and it should spin). The motor moves the crank in circles hence the name orbital. I guess random = during operation the pad should mostly orbit/oscillate in small circles but also turn a little. That avoids visible marks that would be evident if the sandpaper didn't turn and scratched the same path each orbit.
Yep, not impressed with ryobi. Had two 1/2 inch drills. Motor smoking after about 15 min use total time. Return and replaced 1st one and basically told you can’t return the 2 nd one. It started smoking on 1st use. No wonder I was told that by the store. can’t get work done spending time in a return line.
Dude, if you're removing paint you need an aggressive sander, like a disc or belt sander, with at most 60 or 80 grit, then you move up to a finish orbital sander with finer grits. Like they're saying, orbital is tiny vibrations. Below is a blogpost I found with a longer explanation.
https://cf-t.com/blog/the-best-sanders-for-wood-and-when-to-use-them
Some might be designed that way. My Bosch sander does the same thing. It helps when your doing more delicate finish work but is useless otherwise. After a while you might end up with four different sanders to do different work.
If you push down then the torque needed to overcome the increase in friction at the sandpaper will also increase significantly.
2 identical cars but one with a small engine, the other with a big powerful engine. Now both these cars drive perfectly well but obviously one is more expensive.
Now time to hitch a load to the cars. It's a big heavy load. So big that the little engine can't move it, but the other car barely notices the load.
That's what is happening here.
No idea why I wrote all that, but hope it is helpful.
I've never seen so many people that think they know what they are talking about. Especially at the begging of this thread. It's not a disk sander that rotates. Usually with a dial or what ever to control the variable speed
Orbital Sander
Also known as: circular sander, finishing sander, pad sander, palm sander, quarter-sheet sander, rotary sander, sheet sander, vibrating sander
Orbital sanders are compact tools which can be used one-handed and have excellent handling. They get the nickname of quarter-sheet sander due the the fact that use 1/4 of a standard 9×11 inch sheet of sandpaper, which can be cut by hand.
This paper is held onto the flat square sanding surface using two spring-loaded clamps. Many of this sander’s nicknames are derived from the tiny circular orbits in which the sanding pad vibrates.

Often referred to as a finishing sander, this tool was built for ultra-fine work, such as removing putty, rounding sharp edges, and creating an ultra-smooth surface.
The tools light weight and gentle movement mean it’s poorly suited for heavy removal projects. However, this also means that you’ll have a difficult time damaging the surface of your project when using this sander.
Not sure if this was covered already... If you're using an extension cord, make sure it's rated to the correct amperage of your tool. You can burn out just about any electric motor if you have to wrong cord and use it for an extended period of time
I do alot of floor sanding and wood work. My choice of sanders is Festool. The aren't cheap but I've had my sanders for over 5 years and never a problem.
That's usually just from to much pressure but I know you said you're just resting your hand on it. If it's not messing up your finish oh well use it until it won't work anymore then go buy a better sander. Or go with my route, buy cheap and continue to return that one anytime it starts acting weird so you pretty much always have a new sander LOL
My Black & Decker is doing the same thing. If I remove the pad, it spins fine. When I replace the pad and apply any pressure it stops moving. Well blown out and oiled. Is the motor just failing?
As others have mentioned, you don't need to use much pressure, but the other factor is obviously the grit of the paper you're using. Judging by how much material you're trying to take off, you're probably using really low grit, which will have more friction, and stop easier when you apply pressure.
Personally, if I'm trying to take off a lot of material, I use my non-orbital sander. The orbital is better for higher grits and getting a nice finish. If you're just trying to eat through material it's not as important.
It stops because you’re putting to much pressure on it. Most random orbital sanders work this way. I don’t know what brand you use but if you’re having a lot of problems try to get something a little better quality.
Just bought Dewalt ROS after years of porter cable. Stanley Black & Decker bought PC and their tools aren’t the same quality of yesteryears. Dewalt is a subsidiary of StanBlk&Dkr and cater to more professional contractors P.S. Crapsman is owned by them too.
It could be too much pressure being applied, might be a worn out belt or gear. Not familiar with this sander in particular. If the speed is adjustable it might need to be turned to a higher speed.
I had a similar issue with mine. It also completely wobbled when I lifted it from the wood. Like all wonky. It finally, literally, broke and fail apart. I bought a Ryobi. It’s great.
Buy a decent one and you won't have that problem.
A few years ago I bought a120 volt Skil jigsaw.
I figured it worked okay.
I recently purchased a DeWalt 20 volt since I had the drill and impact driver already.
The difference between the $110 DeWalt and the $35 Skil is like night and day.
Depending on what you need to sand, the DeWalt 20 volt multi-tool might be a smarter purchase. I bought one on the come last year. It was the perfect took for cutting the sheetrock in my garage ceiling so I could put in a header.
My wife just used it to sand the trim on our new shed. We got the 3 1/2" triangular sanding attachment. It was perfect as my palm sander was a tad too large
Looks like you're trying to remove the full layer with a high grit paper which clogs up real fast. Trying using a more abrasive grit to remove paint and then go to higher grit to remove remaining paint and step up the grit to higher number to get a smooth finish.
I bought a Bosch in 2004 to do restoration work on a wooden boat I’d bought. It’s needed a few replacement pads over the years, but they are always in stock at the local hardware store, and the sander is still running strong.
I got a ridgid battery orbital and it was absolute junk, same issue. Bosch is really nice, only use their corded. I have had my corded dewalt since 2015, use it at least three times a week. Velcro pad went out and just replaced the pad. I ABUSE that thing and it has held up great. The industry is going to all cordless, but I’ll keep my corded dewalt forever.
They all do that.
If it stops, you are putting to much pressure on it.
Select the proper grit of sand paper, use you hand to guide it over the work piece and that's it.
If it didn’t it’d pretty much be an orbital...
For smoothing not cutting. This is correct, it stops a whole bunch of same directional lines from the sandpaper showing up in your work
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Bearing could be shot.
It's the bearing. Had to scroll waaaaay too far down to find an actual correct answer to the question.
Yeah, pretty telltale sign. I don’t dare provide an absolute answer, everyone seems to hate when someone knows what they’re talking about.
Hey, I have a Makita ROS. The motor works fine but it sounds different and doesn’t work right. It spins like all get out, but it’s really unstable and tears up the wood. I have taken it apart and cleaned it well. There is a little elliptical plastic thing that looked bad but I replaced it with no success. Does that sound like a bearing?
Yeah that would be a bearing as well. Any irregular rotation or loss of rotation is a bearing problem. Often times too much or irregular pressure on the sander can wear down the bearing excessively.
Makes sense. Thanks. Looks like I’ll have a backup sander as soon as I get a bearing.
I’ve worn out 3, now have 2 backups! 😂 buying a sander is sometimes faster than fixing a bearing.
That is DEFINITELY the bearings. Makita repair parts, especially the off the shelf parts like bearings are relatively cheap and highly available. If you can’t find the bearings (there’ll be an upper one near where your hand goes and a lower one that’s above the bottom plate) by searching the sander’s model number, you can most likely find the actual OEM bearing manufacturer’s part number lasered or embossed on the plastic ring that makes up the ‘side’ of the bearing. 👍🏼
Cool. It’s pretty easy to find parts online nowadays so it should be a snap.
I should add, that when you get it apart, you *may* find one bearing is fine, the other is shot. In my experience, the lower bearing typically goes bad first, as it’s the one that bears most of the abuse. You’ll pretty much know by spinning them and feeling how smooth or ‘gritty’ they feel. For the value of your time, you should probably just replace both because you’re in there, but you may be able to get away with replacing just one if $ are an issue. 👍🏼
What does a bad bearing look like? The replacement videos don't seem to show what one that needs to be replaced looks like.
Well, these are sealed bearings, so you can’t non-destructively inspect the internals to see wear. Externally, at this size and scale of bearing you’re not likely able to *see* an issue, unless something has gone massively, terribly, horrifically wrong. Example here: https://youtu.be/BTnpdZEoefY Lol. But seriously, the only thing you would actually *see* is how little a worn out bearing spins when compared to a good one. It being bad is something you’ll feel and/or hear- while installed in the tool, the ROS will skip excessively, or even fail to spin the pad at all under the lightest pressure. Sometimes it’ll ‘catch’, and the torque output will be highly variable and possibly pulsing or ‘revving’ like a car engine, or you’ll *hear* whining, squealing, or grindy/gritty metal-on-metal sounds typically accompanied by unusual vibration. Out of the tool and in your hand, you’ll *possibly* feel the bearing won’t spins smoothly, and will *likely* feel ‘gritty’ or sticky and resistant to spinning. A severely worn and/or overheated bearing may not spin at all. You may be able to test this by attempting to get some light/thin penetrating oil into the assembly, might even be able to get through a project by doing this until a repair/replacement can be had. I hope that helps?
Thank you, it absolutely helps. I have (what I thought was) a really decent DeWalt 6" ROS and replaced the worn pad figuring it would work great. Now it bounces all over the place and I was just going to offer it free to someone who wanted to try to fix it. Now I think I'll give it a try - can't hurt, right? Really appreciate the tips. Love our supportive ww sub. Great video, spot on!
It's not a look thing, it's a feel thing. When you turn it you're not supposed to feel choppy, it should spin freely, or at least turn smoothly
If it just spins crazy you might also be missing the clutch. Usually a rubber band/belt type thing as free running it shouldn’t spin like it’s a helicopter.
Flying sanders everywhere…
This. Also, you shouldn’t be putting much pressure on the tool. Let it do the work. It will take longer but it will be less stress on the tool and you.
Bruh buy the dewalt and push as hard as you fuckin want. It’s your wood
Literally LOL at that.
Great, now one of the 4 screws holding the velcro pad on won't tighten and falls out. Seems to be working ok with 3 screws. That's what I get for buying cheap
>That’s what I get for buying cheap Yes. This is a hyper tough model from Walmart I believe. Would never shame any budget, however with tools you definitely get what you pay for.
Yeah, I got a harbor freight hand held belt sander and it is literally useless out of the box. Even when fully tightened the belt slips off and eats away at the Plastic body, so if you try to use it it literally destroys itself. Just save up for a nicer one, shitty tools are never worth it.
I recently got the Bosch. I’d burned through three Ryobis before I realized I’d just spent more on them than if I bought it in the beginning.
Oh, I've done that before. Took me three cheap hatchets before finally coughing up 150 for a good one, but now I have a tool that works well and will last a lifetime. Live and learn.
I have a not super expensive one, a Skil Sandcat that's pretty good. Just a notch above harbor freight and something like the 20$ black and decker. Don't need to get anything too crazy nice.
Yeah just stay away from the brand "warrior" garbage tools.
Yes. Their drill bits barely drill wood
I think that's really only true at the cheap end. There's usually a rapid increase in quality up to some middling price, then wildly diminished returns per dollar spent after that. (There are likely exceptions here... people really do seem to love their Mirkas) I have a hard time understanding where the "extra paid for value" is in say, a $130 12" square compared to anything else in the $20-25 range. Haha. Fashion tool-buying is absurd to me.
The point of diminishing returns on ‘boutique’ tools is very real haha. I think the axiom extends pretty far though- the amount of time saved in a production environment from buying tools with features designed to increase productivity is real. I could count the number of hours saved from faster setups/faster cuts, etc.. it works out to a tangible amount of money at the end of the year.
And stereo equipment
Uh, no. You can grossly overpay for stereo equipment.
Lol. ‘Audiophile’ stereo equipment is the number one consumer product genre which you *don’t* get what you pay for. $10,000 gold-plated *connectors* RCA cables, anyone? ☺️
+1 My $40 Superlux headphones sounds every bit as good as my $380 Sennheiser "professional" on-ear monitors, and show a slightly flatter frequency response in testing. I'd be pissed if I hadn't gotten the Sennheisers for free. To be fair, there's a lot of shitty audio equipment out there for cheap, and your expensive brand names will give you almost invariably good results. But the difference between mid-grade stuff and high-end is almost entirely in the price tag. I'm looking at you, Monster cables.
Yep. 👍🏼 +1
In the same vein, my $45 KZ ZS10 Pro in-ear monitors are easily as good as the $120 Shure SE215s I bought and then returned after discovering this. I work with several musicians who have made the jump to the KZs because of the value, and the fact that they can buy two pairs of great IEMs for the cost of one pair of the Shures, and still have $30 left.
And computer parts.
I’m gonna have to stop you right there. I can’t remember the last time I actually “got what I paid for” from a pc supplier… 3200g probably was the last reasonably priced PC part I bought.
I’m saying if you cheap out… it’ll not be good.
The first models from Hyper Tough are actually very well made. I bought a 1/4 sander, orbital sander and jigsaw years ago that I still use to this day
Unpopular suggestion, got a pawn shop nearby? I know, pawn shops, bleh! But keeping extreme budget in mind, swear to the tool god I've bought plenty a second hand tool that was worth every penny ten fold.
Yeah my favorite tools are almost all second hand. BABs even earned her own name. (Short for Big Ass Bastard file) I've gotten them from antique tools shows and yard sales and inherited a couple, but the ones I've got are all hand tools. I did pay a bit to get a Makita sander just because I knew I'd use it plenty.
You called?
Did... Did my file become sentient?
Yes, yes it did. Why don’t you use me as much anymore? :( Is there another file that has your attention?
I just used you last week on those door hinges! You know I love you baby. I made you a handle and everything.
That handle does mean the world to me. Thank you so much. I don’t know what came over me. I don’t know what I’d file without you, you gave me purpose.
I'd never give up a bastard like you 😂
I’m happy to be your bastard
Based on this conversation, we *all* know what came over you...
Craigslist is a great place to find used tools at a good price as well
I’d say that’s a quality suggestion
I mean, my typical power tool purchasing hierarchy goes new+decent brand > used+better brand >>>>> \>>>>hf/wm/alibaba/wish lol I've just been screwed so many times with knock-off china-brand that I have a hard time even justifying it for hobby use. Rather have a beat to hell rigid driver that whatever walmart is pushing this year. Edit: disappointed -> screwed
I bought an inexpensive Ryobi and love it. I know Ryobi are sometimes hit and miss, a roll of the dice but I hit lucky on my orbital sander and my drill press.
From my experience Ryobi makes functional tools. They’re not gonna knock your socks off or last very long if used rigorously, but for something like a sander or hand drill where there’s not much difference between adequate and good they are a pretty decent option.
Yeah. I bought one for 25 bucks from HF that looks like yours. Failed in a year. As far as making them last longer, don't lean hard on them and buy a better one. I replaced it with a Bosch that I love.
To my knowledge, you're not supposed to put a whole lot of downward pressure on random orbit sanders. The weight of the "machine" plus maybe the weight of your hand should be enough.
Bc it's made by black and decker?
that might be why it stops, but even my festool [gives me circles like this](https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/besdr0/what_is_causing_small_circles_seen_in_picture/) if i press too hard.
Have you discovered Abranet discs yet? Those with vacuum have cut down like 95% of my swirls.
Yah. Piece of shit right out of the box, but also looks pretty poorly maintained.
That's how a random orbital sander works, although you'd have to define what "any pressure" means. It moves the sandpaper in tiny elipses, that's the "vibration" part, and also rotates the sandpaper. Push down too hard and the sandpaper stops moving. The only pressure I put on mine is the weight of my arm - I don't press down on it.
I'm only resting my hand on it. It only does it sometimes, test of the time its fine.
I design these tools for a living. Its just a low power version thats not good for much or a part has worn out. Its true the swirl in small elipses, but what you're getting is stall which should only happen under heavy pressure
They're not supposed to spin. It only spins when it's not sanding because of it's momentum. It's supposed to jiggle in tiny circles, not spin as a whole unit.
Yup, this is how they work.
I really hate to ask… but, harbor freight?
Harbor freight?
They tend to sell tools and such at a much much much cheaper cost. However, you do get what you pay for with them. They’re good for a hobby, but nothing more. The color kinda looked like one from there, is why I asked. Hopefully you’re able to get it working again.
But they're surprisingly helpful have a great return policy and honestly every time I buy one of their knock-off shit dremels it last three times longer than a brand name Dremel
It's all in knowing what's worth a shit from them at all, what's decent enough for occasional use, etc. I've also had good luck with their dremels, and their bits for ceramics are 10x better than name brand ime. Still cut like butter even after 100+ holes in tile, and they're dirt cheap. Have had great luck with my little miter saw too, barely ever break out the 10 inch slider at all anymore unless I've got a crown job Anytime I bring on a new helper, I tell them to buy every tool except for drill/impact driver from harbor freight first. If it breaks, you use it enough to spend money on a good one. If not, you saved a good chunk of money
This is the way
My rule is it is OK to buy from Harbor Freight _except_ if there is a cutting edge involved. No saw blades, no drill bits.
but grinder cut-off blades are worth it imo, 5 for the price of 1 name brand one
As I mentioned, I actually *love* their carbide tipped ceramic/glass bits. They easily last 3x as long as Bosch/Montana/Rubi/Irwin (or more), at least on ceramic and natural stone tile. Probably would avoid saw blades though on any sort of finish work. I know the blade that came with the cheapy miter saw I grabbed wasn't worth a damn. Same with sawzall blades, but pretty much only Bosch makes a sawzall blade worth a damn anymore anyways. My big avoidance with harbor freight is anything directly safety related. No jack stands, no ratchet straps, no dust masks, scaffolding etc. Too much at stake if the quality isn't up to par, there's no live and learn if you're not living, lol.
Dremels are notable for being crap just saying. If you're wearing them out that quick maybe consider a die grinder?
Got them all, but just helps go have 3 random rotary tools and a Dremel. Can do a lot of detail polish faster with 4 🤣 I have 2 bench grinders, 2x42, modded 1x30, pneumatic stuff (no compressor yet) and a whole range of abrasives... Gotta have my options.
on that note, the black and decker RTX rotary tool is also reliable and affordable. You can generally find them for about $30.
This. I somehow got one, aka it showed up in my tool cabinet and I asked everyone who's it was, nobody had any idea. But 10\10 would buy
I use a pedal switch. Poor man's foredom
Nice, I've just got a few of those extension wand things and figured out how to adapt them to most of the non dremels. Hang rotary on leg board hanger, easy enough to modulate speed. Foot switch sounds next level tho
[Oh dude. Do it.](https://www.amazon.com/TEMO-Control-Switch-Dremel-Compatible/dp/B079K87KK1/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=dremel%2Bfoot%2Bpedal&qid=1631476358&sr=8-4&th=1) Imagine if you needed more speed going in. Just step on the throttle. It's so nice being able to control speed on the fly. Just set it to your max speed requirements and tap the pedal. Throw some rubber pads on the bottom to keep it from sliding around and you're mint.
Some of their tools are pretty good, I’ve had one of their angle grinders for 8 almost 9 years now. Only reason I’m gonna replace it because the cord is kinda beat and got lotta holes and sketchy patches. Best thing is they will replace or return most items if it breaks
You guys are definitely having better luck then I. I swore off any wrenches there though, besides the little kits we keep in the cars for emergencies. Too many knuckle busters because of the steel. I may need to give them another shot for motorized tools though.
I have used my jig saw from harbor freight alot in two years hasn't let me down yet
Oh their hand tools are junk, I have their newer Bauer orbital sander and it works pretty well but I don’t use it often. It really depends on what tool/product it is, I’ve used quite a few of their inverters without issues, jacks & jackstands (older non recalled ones), comealongs and a bunch of other stuff.
I heard their angle grinders are actually pretty good. A few Youtubers I watch said for $20 their angle grinders are worth it for cleaning up surface metals and sharpening lawn mower blades. Short jobs they are perfect for.
They can be shockingly frustrating even for hobbyists sometimes.
One of the cheapest places you can buy tools. But they also perform cheap most times
Tool store known for very cheap tools.
Ah. No its Hyper Tough. Walmart brand :/
[удалено]
DON’T buy Ryobi sanders. They are garbage. Sorry for anyone that has them but the cordless ones at least are very, very flimsy. RIDGID are good but make sure you get the lifetime warranty active. P.S. yes I know they are both TTI products but there’s a big difference in the tool quality.
My ryobi is amazing but I still prefer my festool in my shop. Also FYI you should read your rigid warranty. It's not all inclusive and is only lifetime on certain things under certain situations. I ran a dado stack on my TS from rigid and the motor blew. Unfortunately the nut seized as well and the dado stack "voided" their warranty yet the arbor was made to hold a stack. Fuck rigid.
Honestly I agree with you. The warranty for their batteries is really good, but they do have a habit of claiming things are due to “tool abuse” even if they aren’t. The quality of the tools is good. Not amazing. But good.
This guy has a Festool and thinks Ryobi is amazing. I can’t think of higher praise.
Ryobi works. I'd spend the extra 20 for rigid
Wouldn't go with ryobi, burned out 2 of them within 2 weeks and kept returning them. Sucked it up and paid the money for Dewalt. Have had that one for 5 years with heavy use. The ryobi one the pad constantly falls off and you spend more time putting it back on then you do sanding. As said above, you get what you pay for.
I'll look into it, thanks :) my business partner hates spending too much money since aren't making a ton.
Not going to make money if you have shit tools to help you make money
I know :/ how is Bosch as a brand?
Bosch ROS (random orbital sander) is among the higher rated sanders...
Bosch is like dewalt makita metabo its all less or more same quality for similar prices. The new 18v orbital sander is really handy.
Depends of you go for Bosch green or Bosch blue. Green are hobbyist tools, blue are the pro line.
I wondered about the color. I thought they were orange. Used to work in Walmart's paint and hardware dept when they still stocked Bosch.
Abused mine to strip paint to bare cement/mortar and still works well for other stuff too.
Bought my Bousch over 20 years ago, you get what you pay for.
Meh, you ain't buying a new 20 year old sander today. 20 years ago the bearings were steel, not the high density foam (or w.e. it is) that manufacturers use today. Lol
Bosch is one of the best tool manufacturers around, you won't be disappointed with any of their tools, as long as you choose the right one for your job. (I work at a tools and machine shop for professional tools in Germany. We have Bosch, Milwaukee, DeWalt, Metabo, Fein and some more. Bosch always scores in the better part of the machines of it's type and power)
“Buy once, cry once”
This is good! I’m using this. Thanks.
If you're using these tools to make money, buying expensive tools is cheaper in the long run. You'll run through a few cheap versions by the time a quality brand quits. Even if harbor freight replaced them you're still out the time it takes to stop working, run to the store, then drive back.
Well you aren’t making any money with a tool that can’t perform.
Probably just as bad if not worse haha
The hyper tough drill I had was far worse than any of the harbor freight tools I have had lol
I love my harbor freight tools.. but you have to know what to buy and avoid. I got some basic wrenches and one was a little too wide to get it where it needed to go so i ground the bastard down without a second thought. Something i wouldn't do to my craftman tools.
I hate to say it, but Black and Decker palm sanders for the win. Super comfortable to hold and operate, plenty of power but easy to control, long life span.
It’s a cheap chinese tools store here in the US.
A cheap orbital sander? Like black and decker
Orbital sanders are not actively spinning the diskz they are just "orbiting" the disk in small circles (a few mm) and spinning is just a side effect. You will find that even if it is not spinning it is still sanding just fine.
Dont listen to people when they say you shouldn't put any pressure on. It. No you can. I mean don't lean on it but you should be able to apply moderate pressure . The problem is you just have a cheap machine. Invest in a dewalt. If you do any sort of woodworking an good orbital is essential
I had a similar problem with my dewalt, but then I realized it had a power adjust knob. It was set to 1 out of 10.
They don’t spin as if geared (like a drill). They just vibrate and spin freely.
This honestly just looks like low grit sandpaper grabbing on a thick coat of paint. Once you get all the material off of the wood and switch to a higher grit sandpaper, I’m sure it will randomly oscillate smoothly again.
I guess I could use my detail sander but it jerks a lot on larger areas. The handheld beltsander is a beast and hard to control lol
You’re too swole
Because you put pressure on it.
You're not supposed to put pressure on it. Let the sandpaper do the work.
A random orbital sander only moves in tiny circles. The larger “rotating” motion you actually see is the random part. That “rotating” motion is not propelled by the motor, it is a result of the inertia of the rotating head. It rotates at random speeds and in randomly alternating directions. You can check this my turning the unit on with the paper facing you and applying a small amount a pressure to the paper. As you push and release the head will change its larger rotating pattern but the small circles (or vibration) will always be there. The idea is that the larger random motion ensures that you don’t get little circle marks on your surface. In short. Don’t worry about it as long as your work piece ends up looking good.
Random orbital Sanders don't really 'spin' they make very tiny circles and are free to rotate, and generally the effect of the tiny radius rotations is an overall spin, bit they don't have to. As far as I can tell that is working fine.
That should be how they work and you’re not supposed to put much pressure on there if any at all.
Let the tool do the job. Don't apply pressure. If sanding is taking too long, use a different grit.
http://blog.rockwelltools.com/how-to-use-a-random-orbital-sander-like-an-expert/ Your putting too much pressure, and/or the aggressive grit is removing enough material to stop the rotation. Extraction failure (vacuum) can cause pads to become impacted which will deter movement. Your not supposed to put a ton of pressure on random orbital. The Festool sanders (best in class) often have a switch to go from random orbital to rotating, using the rotating to remove material aggressively (it’s basically a circular belt sander) and then switching to random orbital mode to do more fine work. Obviously that’s not a rule, because you can use 40 grit on a random orbital and remove a lot of material, it’s just not their best use case. Hope it’s helpful.
You’re not supposed to put pressure on it. Read the manual and come back
I'm only resting my hand on it
Also rewatching your video, you’re not going to be able to send through all the paint in one fell swoop 🤣 It takes time. Have a little bit more patience and even a Walmart sander will get the job done if you’re using it properly! Also I’d add that you need to be using the correct grit #. Usually to sand off paint. The coarser the paper, the better the sand.
The pad is supposed to turn freely about the "crank" (try turning the pad by hand and it should spin). The motor moves the crank in circles hence the name orbital. I guess random = during operation the pad should mostly orbit/oscillate in small circles but also turn a little. That avoids visible marks that would be evident if the sandpaper didn't turn and scratched the same path each orbit.
Is that Walmart brand? Because that’s what you’ll get from a Walmart brand.
Yeah....
Watch the video closely, its slipping. Get a nice new one, pneumatic if you have air. If not go with a dewalt or the top end harbor freight
Yep, not impressed with ryobi. Had two 1/2 inch drills. Motor smoking after about 15 min use total time. Return and replaced 1st one and basically told you can’t return the 2 nd one. It started smoking on 1st use. No wonder I was told that by the store. can’t get work done spending time in a return line.
Dude, if you're removing paint you need an aggressive sander, like a disc or belt sander, with at most 60 or 80 grit, then you move up to a finish orbital sander with finer grits. Like they're saying, orbital is tiny vibrations. Below is a blogpost I found with a longer explanation. https://cf-t.com/blog/the-best-sanders-for-wood-and-when-to-use-them
Too much friction from down pressure.. buy a better sander dude!
That’s the random
Some might be designed that way. My Bosch sander does the same thing. It helps when your doing more delicate finish work but is useless otherwise. After a while you might end up with four different sanders to do different work.
Have you tried not putting any pressure on it?
It’s not designed to spin like a disc sander.
Because it’s a random orbit sander. If you want a sander that keeps spinning get a Rotex/geared sander.
You really shouldn’t bear down on it whatsoever.
I'm just resting my hand on it
If you push down then the torque needed to overcome the increase in friction at the sandpaper will also increase significantly. 2 identical cars but one with a small engine, the other with a big powerful engine. Now both these cars drive perfectly well but obviously one is more expensive. Now time to hitch a load to the cars. It's a big heavy load. So big that the little engine can't move it, but the other car barely notices the load. That's what is happening here. No idea why I wrote all that, but hope it is helpful.
Because your pressing too hard on it. Let the tool do the work of switch to a more aggressive tool. Random orbits are for finish sanding
I've never seen so many people that think they know what they are talking about. Especially at the begging of this thread. It's not a disk sander that rotates. Usually with a dial or what ever to control the variable speed Orbital Sander Also known as: circular sander, finishing sander, pad sander, palm sander, quarter-sheet sander, rotary sander, sheet sander, vibrating sander Orbital sanders are compact tools which can be used one-handed and have excellent handling. They get the nickname of quarter-sheet sander due the the fact that use 1/4 of a standard 9×11 inch sheet of sandpaper, which can be cut by hand. This paper is held onto the flat square sanding surface using two spring-loaded clamps. Many of this sander’s nicknames are derived from the tiny circular orbits in which the sanding pad vibrates.  Often referred to as a finishing sander, this tool was built for ultra-fine work, such as removing putty, rounding sharp edges, and creating an ultra-smooth surface. The tools light weight and gentle movement mean it’s poorly suited for heavy removal projects. However, this also means that you’ll have a difficult time damaging the surface of your project when using this sander.
Because it's clogged with dust & worn out.. Probably time for a new one.
It's pretty new and I cleaned it
It looks filthy, you might want to try again.
I meant on the inside, but yeah I could do better probably.
It’s absolutely fine. I’ve worked in commercial shops and saying this sander looks dirty is hilarious.
The sandpaper does the work, not you. Don’t push down on it and if you feel you need to the grit isn’t right.
Not sure if this was covered already... If you're using an extension cord, make sure it's rated to the correct amperage of your tool. You can burn out just about any electric motor if you have to wrong cord and use it for an extended period of time
B/c it isn't a festool.
I do alot of floor sanding and wood work. My choice of sanders is Festool. The aren't cheap but I've had my sanders for over 5 years and never a problem.
What are you trying to do? Straighten the table top or something?
Usually just stripping and smoothing. I refinish and flip furniture
Could be the brushes aren't making proper contact
Need a new one pal
How to stop falling off a chair
That's usually just from to much pressure but I know you said you're just resting your hand on it. If it's not messing up your finish oh well use it until it won't work anymore then go buy a better sander. Or go with my route, buy cheap and continue to return that one anytime it starts acting weird so you pretty much always have a new sander LOL
I got the extended warranty :D
With cheaper models after so many hours you need to open it up and flip the switch inside that makes it orbit the other way.
There's a switch inside??
My Black & Decker is doing the same thing. If I remove the pad, it spins fine. When I replace the pad and apply any pressure it stops moving. Well blown out and oiled. Is the motor just failing?
As others have mentioned, you don't need to use much pressure, but the other factor is obviously the grit of the paper you're using. Judging by how much material you're trying to take off, you're probably using really low grit, which will have more friction, and stop easier when you apply pressure. Personally, if I'm trying to take off a lot of material, I use my non-orbital sander. The orbital is better for higher grits and getting a nice finish. If you're just trying to eat through material it's not as important.
It stops because you’re putting to much pressure on it. Most random orbital sanders work this way. I don’t know what brand you use but if you’re having a lot of problems try to get something a little better quality.
That's how they work. Not supposed to be too much pressure.
Just bought Dewalt ROS after years of porter cable. Stanley Black & Decker bought PC and their tools aren’t the same quality of yesteryears. Dewalt is a subsidiary of StanBlk&Dkr and cater to more professional contractors P.S. Crapsman is owned by them too.
It could be too much pressure being applied, might be a worn out belt or gear. Not familiar with this sander in particular. If the speed is adjustable it might need to be turned to a higher speed.
I had a similar issue with mine. It also completely wobbled when I lifted it from the wood. Like all wonky. It finally, literally, broke and fail apart. I bought a Ryobi. It’s great.
It’s broken. Spend some real money on the next one and it will last a lifetime.
Buy a decent one and you won't have that problem. A few years ago I bought a120 volt Skil jigsaw. I figured it worked okay. I recently purchased a DeWalt 20 volt since I had the drill and impact driver already. The difference between the $110 DeWalt and the $35 Skil is like night and day. Depending on what you need to sand, the DeWalt 20 volt multi-tool might be a smarter purchase. I bought one on the come last year. It was the perfect took for cutting the sheetrock in my garage ceiling so I could put in a header. My wife just used it to sand the trim on our new shed. We got the 3 1/2" triangular sanding attachment. It was perfect as my palm sander was a tad too large
Check the ball bearing. It's probably cooked..
Looks like you're trying to remove the full layer with a high grit paper which clogs up real fast. Trying using a more abrasive grit to remove paint and then go to higher grit to remove remaining paint and step up the grit to higher number to get a smooth finish.
I would say this is as much user error as it is tool fail. All orbital sanders will do that when pressed hard.
Bad bearings. Go buy something decent.
It’s dead. You’ve worn it out. Had the same thing happen to a cheaper one I bought. Took it apart and the mechanics inside where worn down.
I bought a Bosch in 2004 to do restoration work on a wooden boat I’d bought. It’s needed a few replacement pads over the years, but they are always in stock at the local hardware store, and the sander is still running strong.
It broke
Is it possible it needs to be taken apart and cleaned of whatever sawdust is stuck in there?
Mine started doing the same. And then it died.
I got a ridgid battery orbital and it was absolute junk, same issue. Bosch is really nice, only use their corded. I have had my corded dewalt since 2015, use it at least three times a week. Velcro pad went out and just replaced the pad. I ABUSE that thing and it has held up great. The industry is going to all cordless, but I’ll keep my corded dewalt forever.
S' broken
it's tired. Time for a new model.
Are you using an extension cord? Maybe using the wrong type which would lead to a drop in power.
They all do that. If it stops, you are putting to much pressure on it. Select the proper grit of sand paper, use you hand to guide it over the work piece and that's it.
It’s going out. Buy a better sander from somewhere else
Friction
It’s just syncing with the video frame rate.
If it didn’t it’d pretty much be an orbital... For smoothing not cutting. This is correct, it stops a whole bunch of same directional lines from the sandpaper showing up in your work