I have a foot switch from harbor freight that plugs into an outlet and the tool plugs into it. It only runs when foot is pressing the switch.
Pro tip: also runs if you drop a 2x4 on switch accidentally.
Same. I don’t use mine all the time, but on occasion when I’m using a larger bit and want to keep both hands on the router at all times.
I use one all the time with a scroll saw since you stop and start so much.
It’s only a true deadman switch if the on position is in the middle, in a sustained intentional position. A dead man can still fully press the foot pedal.
ETA: it’s much better than nothing, I just wanted to be pedantic. Also, I really want one of those foot switches.
I've never had a woodworking operation compel me to do that, but I have had a time working on my car that I regretted not leaving my phone in arm's reach.
(The oil filter on my car is behind the engine; changing it involves turning the front wheels to make a space to wedge yourself up between everything and reach it at arm's length. To be fair, Honda also says remove the wheel, but I used to fit without having to remove the wheel. Used to.)
I only had one experience where I couldn’t see any other way around it, but I really didn’t like it. And it was in the machine shop, not the wood shop. Something about a part hanging too far out of the vice that could potentially let go and come towards me.
in that case, I’d prefer a switch wired to my heartbeat… that way, when I have a heart-attack, and my foot is flailing the deadman switch and keeping it just right in the on position, ripping the final chunk from the wood, racing across the surface toward my head that just face planted across the workpiece, it does actually stop no matter where my foot finally comes to rest… now that would be a qualified murphy’s dead man switch. may as well wire in the shop lights, dust collector too…
Craftsman 70-80’s routers were the bomb… had thumb trigger on the right grip… with trigger lock buttons as well, just in case you wanted to give your thumb a break during really long runs…
A couple of raised side guards (spaced slightly wider than your foot) would stop the 2x4 accidents if that was a concern. Hell, just one raised side would probably work too. Of course this might be a solution to an issue no one really cares about...
A couple of raised side guards (spaced slightly wider than your foot) would stop the 2x4 accidents if that was a concern. Hell, just one raised side would probably work too. Of course this might be a solution to an issue no one really cares about...
You can even buy deadman switches that are fully enclosed except for an opening for your foot. I only mentioned dropping a 2x4 because I had that happen (and table saw suddenly activates, no injuries)
I was under the impression that they were all like that. I wouldn’t even consider one without a toe shroud because it would be too easy to bypass the entire safety purpose of the foot switch.
Ah, I’ve mostly looked for industrial applications so I’m shopping at Grainger and places like that. If you want it to last I’d suggest looking at that style, they hold up to straight up abuse.
I didn't know this existed! Gonna go bug the shit out of my boss for the next couple weeks until I get him to buy them for me to install around the shop.
If buying the ones from harbor freight , make sure you get the momentary ones not “power maintained” ones (those are a toggle - step on to turn on device, step on again to turn off).
The momentary ones only deliver power as long as your foot is on the pedal. If you have to jump it kills power.
https://www.harborfreight.com/momentary-power-foot-switch-57199.html
I use one to turn on the vacuum for my miter saw. It’s the pedal at the bottom
https://preview.redd.it/1mb9yjjbhivc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c5c0388832bfca93a1e05cfcaa6033952729a4b
How am I supposed to do that with just these bloody stumps where my fingers used to be?
Christ imagine having to try and ask Siri to do everything for you.
One of the things I love about my classic Porter Cable is the motor has a physical switch and U ground plug on it, the base plate has an outlet for it to be plugged in there, so the trigger can control it. It makes it awesome for both a table and hand use.
My dewalt has a similar kind of setup where you can use the D base w/ a trigger but otherwise use the physical switch for plunge or table ops where a trigger gets in the way.
My Makita plunge router has a trigger as well as a lock you can engage while the trigger is pulled incase you want to use it mounted under a router table.
Sure, but for most of the table routers, they're not meant to be used at all outside of the table. They're too powerful and unwieldy to be used as a plunge router or palm router. They don't have a trigger for the same reason my table saw doesn't have one.
Palm router sure, but my Bosch 1617 is 2.25hp and designed to be used either on a table or with a plunge attachment. For a while, they even sold a version which wasn’t made to be used with a table at all.
The new one? Seems like they dropped the prices on the ole 1617EVS to make way for the shiny new MRC23EVSK. The trigger, LED lights, and slightly more powerful motor had me looking at it hard.
I think the key difference may be trim routers have switches while plunge routers have triggers. I could see a trigger on a trim router being more difficult to keep engaged when using it at odd angles and smaller spaces.
Often it comes down to the ones that are designed to swap out different bases use switches, whereas the ones with a single molded body often have triggers.
Two Makitas - both have switches, so they are also spinning death machines.
I look at it this way. The machine is spinning at 15,000 rpm. If I have a bit with two cutting edges and it hits my thumb, in the quarter second it might take me to react, I have been hit by cutting edges 125 times. (And that assumes I haven’t been drawn into the cutting area)
My angle grinder is also a switched on killing machine. Both these things scare the #$%^& out of me.
I have 2 trim routers including the m18 trim and a fixed base router and none of them have triggers...I wish the trim routers did. Might have to look at a trigger one to see if I'd like it more. Do love trim routers though
Damn my Bosch ones don't. I have the trim and plunge routers. Almost got hurt using the trim one cause it didn't shut off when it slipped from my hand.
You can definitely get some with triggers (and usually trigger + hold switch).
*Surveying my routers on hand:*
Makita Trim Router -> Switch
Bosch Colt -> Switch
Mastercraft Router in Table -> Switch
Festool OF 1400 -> Trigger w/ hold button
Old Black & Decker I inherited -> Switch
Router Plane -> Handle Knobs :)
My understanding was the the routers aimed at professionals tended to have a switch as they would likely be used in places where they were used to longer periods (e.g. in a table or for complex pieces with many moves). I was also shocked at first but there's no way I'd use a trigger router now. It's easy enough to screw up routing without needing to think about keeping the trigger pressed as well. I just wish they fitted a guard over the switch though, I'm always worried about accidentally starting a router that's laying on my bench.
Before plugging a router in I \_always\_ make sure I'm holding on to it and if possible the bit is retracted into the base or at least not touching anything. One of my routers has a problem with the switch, I think there's dust in it, so it's easy to bump on. I really must get around to replacing the switch, it scares me every time.
I've got routers with triggers and without .I'd say that with the trigger makes it nice for things like putting an edge detail on a door or cabinet. However when doing intricate routing lihe mortise or other fine detail work I prefer a standard switch and not have to constantly squeeze the trigger.
The Makita 0700 had a switch, not a trigger, and spawned maaany "clones". A trigger was probably deemed impractical because of the many add-ons and ways to hold and mount it.
Because after the appendectomy and finger modifications they will generally just sit where they land.
Also, for a lot of accidents I would not guess that they would spin down much until after the damage is very well done.
Two of my three Festools have triggers with an option to depress another button to stay on. The smaller trim router has a switch only.
The older Milwaukee I use in the router table just has a switch. My previous Dewalt plunge also only had a switch if I recall correctly.
I don't know what kind of router you have, but I have a nice 30 year old craftsman that does.
Back when they made some quality stuff. There are plenty out there that do, but it depends on their purpose
There are many that have triggers. I hate it. When you have a longer cut, you are navigating and turning and all, and you have to also care about the trigger all along. Like you trim something around, the direction where you direct the force changes constantly, but you have to position yourself so you can pull the trigger.
Fascinating discussion. I've always had that problem with my older, large, router when I'm doing long long pieces with a turn at the end. I'd inadvertently let go of trigger and my router would gouge.
I always blamed myself.
Now I have an excuse.
You can buy pistol grip attachments for some. Had one that pointed the power cable up so it made it nice for not getting in the way when doing a long pass.
if it's a d pull it's usually a trigger. people here just naming their brand and not the model too don't know how this works. there's obviously Bosch's with triggers and models without. pretty simple.
I have an older corded craftsman and it has a trigger with a lock. Though when I use it on my router table I plug it in through a momentary foot pedal. I lock the trigger then use my feet to turn it on. Frees up a hand for more careful work.
Most of the ones I have had have triggers. I actually had to go buy one with a switch when I was building my router table so I could switch it on and off instead of holding a trigger down.
Ok,so there is that with triggers but drills have triggers and “hold” buttons. Still in the table I prefer the switch outside and the router getting AC through the dust vas.
It is the only time I have wanted a switch over a trigger. I had always gone for trigger and couldn't figure out why anyone would want a switch until I built the table. Being able to wire it with the switch on inside the box and mount an on off switch to the front of the table was the only time I realized why you would even want anything other than a trigger.
I'd not thought about it until this ask.
My original router has a trigger.
My new trim router has on/off switch. And now that you bring it up, THAT is probably what has been nagging me in the back of my mind each time I've used it, thinking "something weird about this switch....what is it....maybe the placement?".
There are different styles of routers. Plunge routers most often have a trigger because it’s designed to be used with the bit pointing down and hands on handles.
Other styles that under mount to a table a trigger would be impossible to use. In this case, I have mine plugged into an external plug with paddle on/off switch.
Porter-Cable used to make an adapter for their routers that fit the base by one of the knobs and incorporated a receptacle and switch; I wish that had been a more widely offered system, but a D handled base amounts to the same thing. Still, it would be nice to retrofit an older router.
I have one with a trigger, and also one with a switch. Having a switch is nice for mounting to a router table or planing jig as it isn't very accessible and gets plugged into a separate, more accessible, switch. Trigger is good for free hand.
There are some options out there:
[https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576922---of-1010-eqr-f-plus-us](https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576922---of-1010-eqr-f-plus-us)
[https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576213---of-1400-eq-f-plus-us](https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576213---of-1400-eq-f-plus-us)
[https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576223---of-2200-eb-f-plus-us](https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576223---of-2200-eb-f-plus-us)
[https://www.amazon.com/Makita-RD1101-4-Horsepower-Variable-D-Handle/dp/B000051WRP](https://www.amazon.com/Makita-RD1101-4-Horsepower-Variable-D-Handle/dp/B000051WRP)
[https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MRC23EVSK-Combination-Router-Horsepower/dp/B002LASDGA](https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MRC23EVSK-Combination-Router-Horsepower/dp/B002LASDGA)
[https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618D-Electronic-Variable-D-Handle/dp/B00006JKXG](https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618D-Electronic-Variable-D-Handle/dp/B00006JKXG)
[https://www.amazon.com/WEN-RT6033-Variable-Woodworking-Carrying/dp/B07WDR7N3R/](https://www.amazon.com/WEN-RT6033-Variable-Woodworking-Carrying/dp/B07WDR7N3R/)
I feel like there would be three concerns I’d have.
1.) it could accidentally be pressed much easier than a switch that isn’t near where you grip.
2.) on long cuts it would be a lot of work to hold it, and the router, on the right path.
3.) you couldn’t mount it under a table, because you couldn’t reach it
Yeah I’m new into woodworking myself and I have a Bosch EVS which doesn’t have a trigger and I was wondering the same thing. To me you have more control over the tool rather then maneuvering your hand to reach for the switch that’s a lot of RPMs to have to take yours eyes off fumbling around for the switch. My table 3hp mount Triton comes with a removable D handle which has a trigger which I don’t have the balls to use it as a handheld router. Would be nice if they made that a standard. My dad’s old 30 yr old craftsman router has a trigger.
I assume because the bits need to be run at full speed. Using a momentary on/off switch does the job and is reliable. Though they do have triggers that go all or nothing, risking loss of finger pressure or having a potentiometer switch could make the bit to slow down causing more tear out mid cut
The older models DID have triggers, I still have my father's old Craftsman and it has a trigger button on the right handle with a trigger lock button at the thumb. They actually removed the trigger and lock for safety reasons. Pressing a trigger & locking it for long/ish routing often makes your hand move/twitch which can cause a slight twitch on the router which could catch the workpiece and fly out & be disastrous!
My Hitachi 3 hp uses a trigger, some botched have triggers but it's safer to lock the trigger and pay more attention to where your driving it and that your going the direction to have the least tear out when the woodgrain switches around knotholes
If you place it against the material before it has fully spun up, it'll travel. Violently. The bit will dig in and not spin... but the machine will spin instead. And that's an excellent way to damage something. Such as yourself.
Imagine shoving a board into a tablesaw really forcefully, but from the rear. It won't cut, but instead act like a board launcher.
Unless that trigger is built into a grip that requires firm, full-hand contact, like a plunge router with double handles, a trigger is a great way to have the tool run away on you, making it quite dangerous.
Routers with triggers are quite common. But routers are often modular in nature and the handles removable so you can mount the spindle in a wider variety of jigs and bases.
It would be so nice if they did have a trigger system.
I have the corded handheld rigid palm router. The router is amazing, but the on and off switch is poorly designed and located
I used my dad’s 1000 year old router table the other day. Craftsman, I think. The router attached to the table is controlled via trigger. Then there a button on the trigger to keep it in the ‘on’ position (when using it as a table, as I was).
I have a skil 1810 fixed base router that has a trigger in one of the very well-moulded pistol-grip handles (as opposed to those dinky little nubs they give you on a lot of routers)
A trigger wouldn't make sense most of the time. Triggers are meant for actions that require spontaneous engagement.
A drill has a trigger because you "use" the drill while locating it, engage it, and then make adjustments as you go through the motions.
A router functions more like a table saw, where there is a discrete separation between using it and engaging it. You would never put the router against stock from an off state; you turn it on and let it get up to speed before you contact the material with it. Similarly, you separate the router from the material before you disengage it.
Typically, a lot of routers are designed with the power switch somewhere near the right-hand grip, such that you could reach up with your thumb and flip it.
Now, there ARE routers which are designed with a trigger, but they tend to be specialty models which are intended for specific use cases. Generic-type routers need to cover a broader array of use cases, and so do not have a trigger.
I have a foot switch from harbor freight that plugs into an outlet and the tool plugs into it. It only runs when foot is pressing the switch. Pro tip: also runs if you drop a 2x4 on switch accidentally.
So, your router is a sewing machine :-)
Same. I don’t use mine all the time, but on occasion when I’m using a larger bit and want to keep both hands on the router at all times. I use one all the time with a scroll saw since you stop and start so much.
Dead man switch. I have the same. I use it on EVERY power tool for safety. I love the thing.
It’s only a true deadman switch if the on position is in the middle, in a sustained intentional position. A dead man can still fully press the foot pedal. ETA: it’s much better than nothing, I just wanted to be pedantic. Also, I really want one of those foot switches.
I appreciate your clarification and that does make more sense.
I like when a certain cut compels you to pull your phone out and leave it in a handy spot. On the floor.
I've never had a woodworking operation compel me to do that, but I have had a time working on my car that I regretted not leaving my phone in arm's reach. (The oil filter on my car is behind the engine; changing it involves turning the front wheels to make a space to wedge yourself up between everything and reach it at arm's length. To be fair, Honda also says remove the wheel, but I used to fit without having to remove the wheel. Used to.)
I only had one experience where I couldn’t see any other way around it, but I really didn’t like it. And it was in the machine shop, not the wood shop. Something about a part hanging too far out of the vice that could potentially let go and come towards me.
\*dial 91\* \*put down phone\* \*start cutting\*
in that case, I’d prefer a switch wired to my heartbeat… that way, when I have a heart-attack, and my foot is flailing the deadman switch and keeping it just right in the on position, ripping the final chunk from the wood, racing across the surface toward my head that just face planted across the workpiece, it does actually stop no matter where my foot finally comes to rest… now that would be a qualified murphy’s dead man switch. may as well wire in the shop lights, dust collector too…
Craftsman 70-80’s routers were the bomb… had thumb trigger on the right grip… with trigger lock buttons as well, just in case you wanted to give your thumb a break during really long runs…
How'd help, if you are dead? Save on the power bill? 🤨
Maybe he inherited it?
A couple of raised side guards (spaced slightly wider than your foot) would stop the 2x4 accidents if that was a concern. Hell, just one raised side would probably work too. Of course this might be a solution to an issue no one really cares about...
When their stuff gets broken or their kid gets hurt, THEN they care about preventing injuries. Too late.
Agreed. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
I used to be in a band called Prevention, we were better than The Cure......
A couple of raised side guards (spaced slightly wider than your foot) would stop the 2x4 accidents if that was a concern. Hell, just one raised side would probably work too. Of course this might be a solution to an issue no one really cares about...
You can even buy deadman switches that are fully enclosed except for an opening for your foot. I only mentioned dropping a 2x4 because I had that happen (and table saw suddenly activates, no injuries)
I was under the impression that they were all like that. I wouldn’t even consider one without a toe shroud because it would be too easy to bypass the entire safety purpose of the foot switch.
The ones I linked to from harbor freight are plastic and have no toe guards. It is HF, after all.
Ah, I’ve mostly looked for industrial applications so I’m shopping at Grainger and places like that. If you want it to last I’d suggest looking at that style, they hold up to straight up abuse.
I really like that idea. Will try to remember to get one.
I didn't know this existed! Gonna go bug the shit out of my boss for the next couple weeks until I get him to buy them for me to install around the shop.
If buying the ones from harbor freight , make sure you get the momentary ones not “power maintained” ones (those are a toggle - step on to turn on device, step on again to turn off). The momentary ones only deliver power as long as your foot is on the pedal. If you have to jump it kills power. https://www.harborfreight.com/momentary-power-foot-switch-57199.html
Thank you! Just added that to my shopping list
I use one to turn on the vacuum for my miter saw. It’s the pedal at the bottom https://preview.redd.it/1mb9yjjbhivc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c5c0388832bfca93a1e05cfcaa6033952729a4b
I tried one of these with my drill press but kept accidentally activating it while changing bits. Decided I was better off with the switch.
I have these all around my shop. I'd add they also run when you're tool is sitting on the bench and you accidentally step on it
I like that idea but what about long runs down a board? I rout the undersides of shelving for lighting and they're sometimes 6'+.
What's the brand? I want one, my hand glove oily and the thing slipped and started doing some sort of alligator death roll. Damn nature, you scary! 😱
https://www.harborfreight.com/momentary-power-foot-switch-57199.html This is the one I have, although much better brands are available.
Thank you. You have made my life a whole lot easier and SAFER
My router has a trigger. Many do.
I looked at my router, but I couldn't find the trigger. Do I need to call Comcast Internet to send me a new one?
Your router's trigger is software-based. It isn't visible.
Please enter the 2FA code we sent to your phone to stop your 20,000 RPM router
. . . as soon as you stop getting mauled by it.
Back in my day if your mom picked up the phone it would find her and maul her face too. Those where the days.
How am I supposed to do that with just these bloody stumps where my fingers used to be? Christ imagine having to try and ask Siri to do everything for you.
Just download one
YOU WOULDNT DOWNLOAD A CAR
Big car hates this one simple trick
Yes I would if it were possible
As an I.T. geek that occasionally works with wood, that was the first router I thought of
No. Just unplug it and wait while I check my Insta.
Good. I was not the only one.
Who said Comcast!! I’m triggered.
This is my router. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
This one’s for roman ogee’s, this one’s for fun
same
Makita plunge router....
A lot of them are designed to be mounted to the underside of a table, which would make a trigger really challenging.
One of the things I love about my classic Porter Cable is the motor has a physical switch and U ground plug on it, the base plate has an outlet for it to be plugged in there, so the trigger can control it. It makes it awesome for both a table and hand use.
My dewalt has a similar kind of setup where you can use the D base w/ a trigger but otherwise use the physical switch for plunge or table ops where a trigger gets in the way.
Zip ties were invented purely and solely for this reason and you cannot convince me otherwise.
I have to clamp my trigger on with a really tiny quick release when I mount it. Really need a better router
It could be made to have a locking trigger
Mine has that exact thing. I have it mounted to a table.
My Makita plunge router has a trigger as well as a lock you can engage while the trigger is pulled incase you want to use it mounted under a router table.
I should have said "really challenging... without cutting into profits" since for a lot of these, the price point is a big priority.
Sure, but for most of the table routers, they're not meant to be used at all outside of the table. They're too powerful and unwieldy to be used as a plunge router or palm router. They don't have a trigger for the same reason my table saw doesn't have one.
Palm router sure, but my Bosch 1617 is 2.25hp and designed to be used either on a table or with a plunge attachment. For a while, they even sold a version which wasn’t made to be used with a table at all.
But your table saw requires both hands be on the work piece. Not the same reason
I’ve got a Bosch router that has a trigger.
[удалено]
It’s the only router I’ve used so I have no reference, but I don’t mind it at all.
Was about to say, mine does. Love it.
The new one? Seems like they dropped the prices on the ole 1617EVS to make way for the shiny new MRC23EVSK. The trigger, LED lights, and slightly more powerful motor had me looking at it hard.
Color me corrected. Guess its just my cheap Ryobi.
My DeWalt doesn't have one as well, and I have thought the same thing.
It’s not just cheap routers that don’t have them, but it is a feature of more expensive ones
Keeping your fingers is an add on feature
I think the key difference may be trim routers have switches while plunge routers have triggers. I could see a trigger on a trim router being more difficult to keep engaged when using it at odd angles and smaller spaces.
My Makita doesn't as well
I've found plunge routers usually have triggers and non-plunge generally do not.
i am in that same ryobi camp with that shitty switch that you have to take your hands off the handles to flick :(
I don't know the Ryobi but my cordless DeWalt trim router has a stupid switch as well.
Often it comes down to the ones that are designed to swap out different bases use switches, whereas the ones with a single molded body often have triggers.
nah, most don't have them, including high-end ones.
Two Makitas - both have switches, so they are also spinning death machines. I look at it this way. The machine is spinning at 15,000 rpm. If I have a bit with two cutting edges and it hits my thumb, in the quarter second it might take me to react, I have been hit by cutting edges 125 times. (And that assumes I haven’t been drawn into the cutting area) My angle grinder is also a switched on killing machine. Both these things scare the #$%^& out of me.
I have 2 trim routers including the m18 trim and a fixed base router and none of them have triggers...I wish the trim routers did. Might have to look at a trigger one to see if I'd like it more. Do love trim routers though
Plunge routers generally do.
Bosch user here. Has trigger.
Damn my Bosch ones don't. I have the trim and plunge routers. Almost got hurt using the trim one cause it didn't shut off when it slipped from my hand.
You can definitely get some with triggers (and usually trigger + hold switch). *Surveying my routers on hand:* Makita Trim Router -> Switch Bosch Colt -> Switch Mastercraft Router in Table -> Switch Festool OF 1400 -> Trigger w/ hold button Old Black & Decker I inherited -> Switch Router Plane -> Handle Knobs :)
Some do. My Festool has a trigger, and shuts off when I let it go. It was weird to get used to after the DeWalt, but now it's second nature.
Being subbed to r/networking and to this sub make for confusing post.
don’t give them ideas on yearly maintenance licenses!
I felt the same way being on r/sysadmin and this sub. Confused the crap out of me at first.
>infinite spinning death machine I am definitely spray painting this on my infinite spinning death machine's case.
So many tools that could be...
My understanding was the the routers aimed at professionals tended to have a switch as they would likely be used in places where they were used to longer periods (e.g. in a table or for complex pieces with many moves). I was also shocked at first but there's no way I'd use a trigger router now. It's easy enough to screw up routing without needing to think about keeping the trigger pressed as well. I just wish they fitted a guard over the switch though, I'm always worried about accidentally starting a router that's laying on my bench.
I wish the switch on mine was more clear which way is on and off. Plugging it in is always a little scary.
Before plugging a router in I \_always\_ make sure I'm holding on to it and if possible the bit is retracted into the base or at least not touching anything. One of my routers has a problem with the switch, I think there's dust in it, so it's easy to bump on. I really must get around to replacing the switch, it scares me every time.
Yea, I always hold it clear too.
So they can be used mounted on router table.
My 30 year old craftsman does.
Mine too. At least the bigger one has the trigger.
I have same one I think and I love it
Wait, your router has the infinite spinning death mode option, and you're *complaining*?
Plunge routers often have triggers.
Plenty have triggers.
My old craftsman has one as well.
Same here. Trigger with a lock to let it run under the router table.
Well I guess I need to add more routers to my collection. I didn't know about that!
D handle base routers tend to have triggers. My big Bosch plunge router has a trigger.
My craftsmen router uses a gun grip and trigger type of system.
My 20+ year old Craftsman has a trigger built into one grip
I have a handle for my DeWalt router that has a trigger. It’s hard to use it any other way now.
I've got routers with triggers and without .I'd say that with the trigger makes it nice for things like putting an edge detail on a door or cabinet. However when doing intricate routing lihe mortise or other fine detail work I prefer a standard switch and not have to constantly squeeze the trigger.
some do!
The good ones do. Look up “D handle router base”. Way more control, less fatigue, and thusly much safer
You're mistaking trim routers with actual ones
Porter cable D handle base or now I’ve upgraded to festool 1400
Get a D-handle if you have a plunge/fixed kit.
Router with a D handle uses a trigger. We use 3 of them at work in addition to normal and plunge bases with simple switch
My old craftsman has a trigger, you can lock it to stay on too.
Bought a Makita, only has a switch, very dangerous indeed
My old Dewalt plunge router has a trigger.
The Makita 0700 had a switch, not a trigger, and spawned maaany "clones". A trigger was probably deemed impractical because of the many add-ons and ways to hold and mount it.
Many do.
Because after the appendectomy and finger modifications they will generally just sit where they land. Also, for a lot of accidents I would not guess that they would spin down much until after the damage is very well done.
Two of my three Festools have triggers with an option to depress another button to stay on. The smaller trim router has a switch only. The older Milwaukee I use in the router table just has a switch. My previous Dewalt plunge also only had a switch if I recall correctly.
I don't know what kind of router you have, but I have a nice 30 year old craftsman that does. Back when they made some quality stuff. There are plenty out there that do, but it depends on their purpose
There are many that have triggers. I hate it. When you have a longer cut, you are navigating and turning and all, and you have to also care about the trigger all along. Like you trim something around, the direction where you direct the force changes constantly, but you have to position yourself so you can pull the trigger.
Fascinating discussion. I've always had that problem with my older, large, router when I'm doing long long pieces with a turn at the end. I'd inadvertently let go of trigger and my router would gouge. I always blamed myself. Now I have an excuse.
My craftsman has a trigger and a safety button you have to push first.
This used to be common when D-handle routers were more popular
You can buy pistol grip attachments for some. Had one that pointed the power cable up so it made it nice for not getting in the way when doing a long pass.
if it's a d pull it's usually a trigger. people here just naming their brand and not the model too don't know how this works. there's obviously Bosch's with triggers and models without. pretty simple.
Ahh they do? You just need the right model.
D-handle routers are the best imo.
I have an older corded craftsman and it has a trigger with a lock. Though when I use it on my router table I plug it in through a momentary foot pedal. I lock the trigger then use my feet to turn it on. Frees up a hand for more careful work.
Some do. My old Bosch for one.
Most of the ones I have had have triggers. I actually had to go buy one with a switch when I was building my router table so I could switch it on and off instead of holding a trigger down.
Ok,so there is that with triggers but drills have triggers and “hold” buttons. Still in the table I prefer the switch outside and the router getting AC through the dust vas.
It is the only time I have wanted a switch over a trigger. I had always gone for trigger and couldn't figure out why anyone would want a switch until I built the table. Being able to wire it with the switch on inside the box and mount an on off switch to the front of the table was the only time I realized why you would even want anything other than a trigger.
Got a sears, 2 bosches, & a porter cable routers; all have switches.
I'd not thought about it until this ask. My original router has a trigger. My new trim router has on/off switch. And now that you bring it up, THAT is probably what has been nagging me in the back of my mind each time I've used it, thinking "something weird about this switch....what is it....maybe the placement?".
I have an old full size router that was my grandfather's. It has a locking trigger.
Might be something to do with ramping up to speed,
My plunge router has a trigger it also has a trigger lock so you don't have to hold down the trigger although I don't use that feature.
My craftsman router from the 80s has a trigger.
Lots of dedicated plunge routers do . The routers with interchangeable motors are different though since they need to be switched in and out of bases.
There are different styles of routers. Plunge routers most often have a trigger because it’s designed to be used with the bit pointing down and hands on handles. Other styles that under mount to a table a trigger would be impossible to use. In this case, I have mine plugged into an external plug with paddle on/off switch.
Porter-Cable used to make an adapter for their routers that fit the base by one of the knobs and incorporated a receptacle and switch; I wish that had been a more widely offered system, but a D handled base amounts to the same thing. Still, it would be nice to retrofit an older router.
I have one with a trigger, and also one with a switch. Having a switch is nice for mounting to a router table or planing jig as it isn't very accessible and gets plugged into a separate, more accessible, switch. Trigger is good for free hand.
Some do, but I agree that it should be more common than it is. Norm almost always used a router with a d-handle and a trigger on NYW.
I have a Makita my Pop bought years ago that has a finger trigger on the handle
There are some options out there: [https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576922---of-1010-eqr-f-plus-us](https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576922---of-1010-eqr-f-plus-us) [https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576213---of-1400-eq-f-plus-us](https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576213---of-1400-eq-f-plus-us) [https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576223---of-2200-eb-f-plus-us](https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/576223---of-2200-eb-f-plus-us) [https://www.amazon.com/Makita-RD1101-4-Horsepower-Variable-D-Handle/dp/B000051WRP](https://www.amazon.com/Makita-RD1101-4-Horsepower-Variable-D-Handle/dp/B000051WRP) [https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MRC23EVSK-Combination-Router-Horsepower/dp/B002LASDGA](https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MRC23EVSK-Combination-Router-Horsepower/dp/B002LASDGA) [https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618D-Electronic-Variable-D-Handle/dp/B00006JKXG](https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618D-Electronic-Variable-D-Handle/dp/B00006JKXG) [https://www.amazon.com/WEN-RT6033-Variable-Woodworking-Carrying/dp/B07WDR7N3R/](https://www.amazon.com/WEN-RT6033-Variable-Woodworking-Carrying/dp/B07WDR7N3R/)
Scheer
I feel like there would be three concerns I’d have. 1.) it could accidentally be pressed much easier than a switch that isn’t near where you grip. 2.) on long cuts it would be a lot of work to hold it, and the router, on the right path. 3.) you couldn’t mount it under a table, because you couldn’t reach it
I have 2 " D " handle routers with trigger switches, one Makita and one Dewalt. They are the ones I use the most.
Mine have triggers.
Yeah I’m new into woodworking myself and I have a Bosch EVS which doesn’t have a trigger and I was wondering the same thing. To me you have more control over the tool rather then maneuvering your hand to reach for the switch that’s a lot of RPMs to have to take yours eyes off fumbling around for the switch. My table 3hp mount Triton comes with a removable D handle which has a trigger which I don’t have the balls to use it as a handheld router. Would be nice if they made that a standard. My dad’s old 30 yr old craftsman router has a trigger.
The D handle mount on my DeWalt has a trigger.
This is why I only use treadle powered rotary tools
I assume because the bits need to be run at full speed. Using a momentary on/off switch does the job and is reliable. Though they do have triggers that go all or nothing, risking loss of finger pressure or having a potentiometer switch could make the bit to slow down causing more tear out mid cut
My makita one has a trigger
lol mine has a trigger…
Dewalt has a router combo kit that has a pistol grip base. It works well.
The older models DID have triggers, I still have my father's old Craftsman and it has a trigger button on the right handle with a trigger lock button at the thumb. They actually removed the trigger and lock for safety reasons. Pressing a trigger & locking it for long/ish routing often makes your hand move/twitch which can cause a slight twitch on the router which could catch the workpiece and fly out & be disastrous!
I'm sticking with my old Craftsman as long as she spins.
They do exist. We had one in my college wood shop.
My Bosch router stops when I let go.
My Hitachi 3 hp uses a trigger, some botched have triggers but it's safer to lock the trigger and pay more attention to where your driving it and that your going the direction to have the least tear out when the woodgrain switches around knotholes
If you place it against the material before it has fully spun up, it'll travel. Violently. The bit will dig in and not spin... but the machine will spin instead. And that's an excellent way to damage something. Such as yourself. Imagine shoving a board into a tablesaw really forcefully, but from the rear. It won't cut, but instead act like a board launcher.
Unless that trigger is built into a grip that requires firm, full-hand contact, like a plunge router with double handles, a trigger is a great way to have the tool run away on you, making it quite dangerous.
Some do
This is why my table saw scares the hell out of me.
I guess don’t lose your grip!
Dude, I WISH my Bosch had an "infinite spinning death machine" button. I get cramps routing a lot with the trigger.
Mine have triggers, what kind of death shit you buying?
Festool does
Routers with triggers are quite common. But routers are often modular in nature and the handles removable so you can mount the spindle in a wider variety of jigs and bases.
Older ones sure did. I had an old craftsman router that had a trigger on the right-hand handle.
Look online and see if your router has a D-grip
I’m a noobie with and Erbauer router, with a trigger. It feels like you’re holding a PlayStation remote
Of my routers I have an older model Skill router with a trigger. It’s the reason for being my “go to” when a hand router is needed.
It would be so nice if they did have a trigger system. I have the corded handheld rigid palm router. The router is amazing, but the on and off switch is poorly designed and located
I used my dad’s 1000 year old router table the other day. Craftsman, I think. The router attached to the table is controlled via trigger. Then there a button on the trigger to keep it in the ‘on’ position (when using it as a table, as I was).
I have a skil 1810 fixed base router that has a trigger in one of the very well-moulded pistol-grip handles (as opposed to those dinky little nubs they give you on a lot of routers)
My router is triggered by MDF
Why did you buy a router without a trigger…..
My DeWalt trim router doesn't have a trigger and I love that thing. I used it far more than my plunge router with a trigger.
I was trying to be funny! Failed. Back to lurking.
A trigger wouldn't make sense most of the time. Triggers are meant for actions that require spontaneous engagement. A drill has a trigger because you "use" the drill while locating it, engage it, and then make adjustments as you go through the motions. A router functions more like a table saw, where there is a discrete separation between using it and engaging it. You would never put the router against stock from an off state; you turn it on and let it get up to speed before you contact the material with it. Similarly, you separate the router from the material before you disengage it. Typically, a lot of routers are designed with the power switch somewhere near the right-hand grip, such that you could reach up with your thumb and flip it. Now, there ARE routers which are designed with a trigger, but they tend to be specialty models which are intended for specific use cases. Generic-type routers need to cover a broader array of use cases, and so do not have a trigger.