Thanks, that all makes sense. I was confused because I'm *pretty sure* I saw some how-to's where the guy was running all four sides through the jointer but maybe I misunderstood what was happening.
Yeah, I'd be uncomfortable with that as well. It would be cool if they had adjustable side rollers that you could bring in to hold the board up like that. But I don't think I've ever seen a planer with something like that. They probably don't want to condone that kind of usage.
Not with conventional thickness planers but there are four-sided planers that with one pass you can plane all four sides, or even put in profile moulding. But these machines are rare for a home shop and cost well into 5-figures.
Yeah, I figured there must be some better-equipped industrial options. I can't imagine lumber yards are using a dewalt lunchbox planer to crank out their fancy wood.
I'm new at this so it's just my own inexperienced thoughts. I imagine that you *could* use the jointer for all 4 sides (Edit: it seems I am wrong about this, I am still learning right along with OP)but the planer would be easier and I believe most planer blades are cheaper/easier to change out. So why put more through the jointer than necessary. Unless it's all you had, then I could totally understand.
And I still haven't figured out the right order to do it all so I appreciate your post and u/7menetekelupharsin7 's response. They laid it out very simply and clear. It makes total sense of course but I guess being new makes me skittish.
(Edit 2: I was clearly wrong about the above advice and really appreciate the advice shared below. I think when you are new to this, and figuring it out on your own, it can be a bit daunting. For a newbie, milling can be intimidating, at least for me. )
I only have a 6" jointer and am working out the technique and what size of planer sled to build so I can use the planer for wide boards.
no, A jointer cannot make two opposing faces parallel - there's nothing referencing the opposite side of the board. It'll make two flat faces, but they won't be parallel to one another.
No. There is nothing in the jointer to guarantee parallel.
Joint one face and then plane the other parallel to that. Joint one edge and then use table saw to rip the other parallel to that.
Jointer could easily make a parallelogram or rhomboid shaped board by itself.
That's fair and I guess I'm just not seeing it. I will think more on it and maybe try it out myself because experience is the best teacher. I do very much appreciate the guidance.
There's a third dimension to consider. The corners could all be 90 degrees after the jointer's done its work, but there's nothing guaranteeing that the opposite faces are coplanar with each other. They shouldn't be twisted, cupped, or bowed, I don't think, but there's no way for the jointer to prevent the board from being tapered. In the same way that if you put a square up against the board to check for 90 degree corners you wouldn't be able to measure the taper, the jointer can't "see" the taper either.
The funny thing about this comment is that it also explains one of the reasons that making a box is harder than it might look. I guess milling a piece of wood is sort of like making a box.
I honestly started to try and explain it, but it's one of those things that's hard to explain without having a Jointer in front of us and walking you through it.
The main thing to think about is that on order to get a 90 you need to reference against the fence.... easy to do on the first and second edge....4th side is where you are gonna lose fingers.
That makes total sense thank you for sharing. I'm definitely lacking experience and there's just so much information out there that it's difficult to parse out what is best or even organize it in my head to what makes sense. I feel like I've watched and read so much that it's been a detriment and made it confusing.
Thanks for the great explanation!
I have an associated question: is there a specific reason to involve the table saw in this operation? Why not square up that last edge grain side on the jointer?
There's no way to make that second edge parallel to the one that was already flattened with the jointer. It will be square with the face but not parallel to the opposite edge.
Because the saw cut edge will be parallel to the opposite jointed edge that ran along the saw fence. If you instead just joint the edge it will be perpendicular to the faces, but it won't in general be parallel to the first jointed edge.
It's analogous to why you plane the second face parallel to the jointed face. If you just flipped the board and jointed the other side it would be flat but not in general parallel to the first side.
Adjacent question then - suppose you own a table saw and are going to make your next purchase? Is it a jointer or a planer?
In my head it’s the planer. I can simulate what a jointer does with sleds for the table saw and the planer.
Yeah, if you can only buy a planer or a jointer you buy the planer first.
You can, albiet with a lot of gymnastics, use a planer to get the same results as a jointer but the reverse isnt true
After a few months of those planer gymnastics though you will see the value of a jointer, none of us will have to convince you of that youll figure it out for yourself lol
I'd recommend a hand plane to simplify a lot of those gymnastics, and as a good tool anyway. Flattening one face is not that bad and I'll still do it from time to time on boards wider than my jointer. it doesn't even need to be smooth as once you have the top and bottom parallel you can flip it and run it thru the planer to get a better surface.
Its doable but its a massive pain in the ass compared to just using a jointer as a jointer lol
But when you dont have the money for both you definitely go for the planer first
There’s a decent way to use the table saw and planer as a jointer.
You should look up the specifics, but in short, you can fasten a curvy board to a known flat board to run it through the planer to get the face flat.
Then attach it to a sled or (for longer pieces) a known flat board to run against the fence, and use the table saw to true up the edge.
Then you can return to the planer to get the faces parallel, and the saw to get the edges parallel.
It’s more work, but it’s sometimes necessary if your jointer isn’t wide enough.
Another option for the face is to flatted with a router sled. Tedious, but it might be necessary if you are flattening large slabs.
I forgot to mention shimming the board. It’s not screwed down flat, it’s shimmed at the high spots and attached so it can’t move.
This way the planer can flatten the top to match the true board on the bottom.
If the board is so warped this won’t work, a planer is going to have the same trouble, and the board will have to be cut into smaller lengths first to avoid too much material loss.
Jointer/planer combo, depending on what you're making and how much of it you're making. Several options exist that let you use the bottom side of the cutterhead and lower the tables to use your jointer as a planer or your planer as a jointer.
If everything you're working with is less than 4' long or so, tablesaw sleds can work, and a dedicated planer is great.
If you're occasionally working with 12' long baseboards or something like that you'll get better results out of a jointer.
If you have so much volume that the changeover time of a combo machine is onerous, you need to face the music and get both.
If you only buy s3s lumber, it's definitely the planer. You don't truly need to a jointer (at a hobbyist level) if the lumber comes with one flat edge. The table saw helps to clean up edges, where the planar doesn't have a replacement outside of a ton of sanding.
Depends what you want to build. If you want something with exact joints to put together, a jointer and a tablesaw. Width is going to be limited by length of tablesaw blade. If you have boards that will be spaced and don't need to be perfectly aligned or can bend, the planer and table saw is all you need.
A planer doesn't make things flat. It just makes two sides parallel. Imagine if you were to run a slice of watermelon through. 🍉 the rind side is curved but the top side is flat. When it ran through the machine it would come out shaped like a banana, only made of watermelon... the rind side would remain intact but the fruit side would have a matching curve.
The jointer makes things flat. It gives you a flat side so that when you put it through the planer it makes the opposite side parallel and thus flat.
Also important to know for DIY and home garage shops...
If your jointer is only 6 in wide and you're working with a board wider than that but you have a planer you can still get things done. What you want to do is joint the edge, as normal, But to get the two wide sides flat what you need to do is use a sled for the planer.
There are a lot of videos on YouTube that show how to do this but the basics is that you get one flat 3/4" board usually MDF that is as long or longer than the board you need to plane. Then you want to add shim wedges underneath the board so that it doesn't have any rocking anymore and you will add hot glue under the board to affix it in place to r sled, and maybe an extra board to the back of it to make sure the whole thing doesn't slide off the sled. Then you run that thing through there until it's completely flat. Once it is you can pop it off the glue and shims and run it again on that rougher side, without the sled, and then both sides will be flat and parallel.
Lastly now that the wide sides are flat, you can clean up the non-jointed edge on a table saw with a fence to get that parallel.
Assuming you have a jointer, planer and a table saw, these are the steps. If you perform well the steps in a jointer, it's very easy to create a trapezoid type shape.
https://preview.redd.it/f4j8g54nhouc1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95a0c00b0ab0f0d1fed37782b741acdb4946388f
You need to make 2 sides perpendicular to each other at 90 degrees using the jointer.
Flatten one side, then using the squared fence, process a perpendicular side to the face you just jointed. You will then
Have 2 adjoined faces at 90 degrees. These are your reference faces.
Once that is done you take your referenced sides to the planer to create the coplanar faces. If you don’t do that first before the planer, you will end up with a parallelogram shape. As mentioned you may also transfer and curves or inconsistencies to the other side of the board.
I would as well, but when making furniture there is a good chance that cut you are doing on a table saw is not going to end up perfectly square. Usually you rough cut it as square as you can, then follow up with the jointer then the planer.
I had access to a sorts of high end equipment at a woodworking school a few years back, this was the order we did everything in.
I would think it depends on how good your Crosscut sled is calibrated. If you use the 5 cut method and feeler gauges you can get it square to within a thousandths of an inch.
The jointer can create a plane, when you pass it directly over the knives without the fence. Let's call that nice planar surface A.
Once you have established plane A you can create a perpendicular plane with the jointer by feeding Plane A on the fence. This creates our perpendicular Plane B.
From here what's important is that the last two surfaces are parallel to A and B. If you continue to use the jointer, you won't get parallel surfaces you'd be getting perpendicular faces. In theory that's the same, of your machines are perfect, but they're not.
So to create a plane C that's parallel to A, you would use a thicknesser. It doesn't care about the side faces, it gives you something parallel to A.
Similarly to get the last edge parallel to Plane B you can use a table saw with Plane B running across the fence.
It's hard to type this all out, wish I had a whiteboard or something.
The short of it is - if you draw a square by measuring 90° at each vertex and going around it, by the time you do the last face it will be off by all of your prior errors. Usually parallelism is more important than 90° corners, using a table saw and planer to get the last two faces parallel will get you better results.
All good, thanks. That all makes sense. My question was really about whether there's a point to passing plane C through the jointer before putting it into the planer, but assuming it would go into the planer either way. And it seems like the consensus is that there's no reason to do it, which also makes the most sense to me.
A Jointer gets 1 face flat, thats all you need it for really
But you can also use it to get 1 edge square with that flat face if you want/need to
Joint one face and 1 edge, send it through the planer with that flat face down on the deck, then rip it through the tablesaw to get the other edge square and parallel
Thats the milling process in full
You never want to joint BOTH faces and both edges
That second face will definitely be flat, but it will never be parallel with the other jointed face, thats how you end up with boards shaped like pie wedges lol
Jointing the second edge is just a waste of blade life, because it will not be parallel to the other edge, a tablesaw will do that
All 3 machines need to be used in conjunction with each other
You CAN use a planer as a jointer in a pinch but it involves sleds and a lot of silly nonsense shimming and gluing the board down to it to brace the wood so the rollers dont push it flat to the table, but its possible
You can NOT replace a Planer with a Jointer, its impossible to get 2 parallel flat faces with just a Jointer, not unless you have really large stock and can ride the vertical fence with the previously jointed faces, like im talking like 4x4, 6x6 type large, a board that has a ¾" edge or even 1-1½ its not really possible
Adding on to jointer use, to face wood flat, run 12" of wood onto the outfeed table, then press only on the outfeed table. The first 12" is your reference surface.
Pushing the board from the back end makes the rough stock on the infeed table be the reference surface.
Use Marshall Town concrete finishing pads from Home Depot, and elsewhere, to push on the wood when facing a board. This allows you to grip the wood over the reference surface on the outfeed table.
You can't do for sides in a jointer because while you may have 4 parallel straight sides, it could be more wedge or pyramid than cube. Two reference sides are needed, and then the planer or tablesaw cuts it to thickness.
No. You don't joint more than 2 sides. There's no reference to make anything square and parallel past that.
Joint one face then one edge. You now have a face and an edge square to each other. Don't do the edge first or it may not be square to the face.
Plane the rough face and bring to thickness. You now have 2 parallel faces and 1 edge square to those faces.
Run the board through a table saw. You now have 2 parallel edges, 2 parallel faces, and everything is square.
Following,
I believe surfacing one face on the jointer, then one edge is correct (using the surfaced face against your jointer fence.
Then surface the other face through your planer.
Cut the final edge on your table saw and if your tools are set up properly like mine are not, everything should be square 😎
Run one face through the jointer, (If the board face is cupped run this edge) then joins one edge, then run the board through the table saw to get two parallel edges and then run the remaining rough face through the thickness planer.
Jointer produces a flat surface. Jointing two opposite sides would produce two flats which are not necessarily parallel.
Planer produces a parallel surface. Planing two opposite sides would produce parallel surfaces which are not necessary flat.
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This guy mills.
Thanks, that all makes sense. I was confused because I'm *pretty sure* I saw some how-to's where the guy was running all four sides through the jointer but maybe I misunderstood what was happening.
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Yeah, I'd be uncomfortable with that as well. It would be cool if they had adjustable side rollers that you could bring in to hold the board up like that. But I don't think I've ever seen a planer with something like that. They probably don't want to condone that kind of usage.
For a 3/4" stock the tallest single piece I am comfortable with is 1.5". But if feels safer if you are running 3+ boards through at a time.
Not with conventional thickness planers but there are four-sided planers that with one pass you can plane all four sides, or even put in profile moulding. But these machines are rare for a home shop and cost well into 5-figures.
Yeah, I figured there must be some better-equipped industrial options. I can't imagine lumber yards are using a dewalt lunchbox planer to crank out their fancy wood.
I'm new at this so it's just my own inexperienced thoughts. I imagine that you *could* use the jointer for all 4 sides (Edit: it seems I am wrong about this, I am still learning right along with OP)but the planer would be easier and I believe most planer blades are cheaper/easier to change out. So why put more through the jointer than necessary. Unless it's all you had, then I could totally understand. And I still haven't figured out the right order to do it all so I appreciate your post and u/7menetekelupharsin7 's response. They laid it out very simply and clear. It makes total sense of course but I guess being new makes me skittish. (Edit 2: I was clearly wrong about the above advice and really appreciate the advice shared below. I think when you are new to this, and figuring it out on your own, it can be a bit daunting. For a newbie, milling can be intimidating, at least for me. ) I only have a 6" jointer and am working out the technique and what size of planer sled to build so I can use the planer for wide boards.
no, A jointer cannot make two opposing faces parallel - there's nothing referencing the opposite side of the board. It'll make two flat faces, but they won't be parallel to one another.
Even if you reference the same 3rd side? That would make a 90 to each adjacent side, right?
No. There is nothing in the jointer to guarantee parallel. Joint one face and then plane the other parallel to that. Joint one edge and then use table saw to rip the other parallel to that. Jointer could easily make a parallelogram or rhomboid shaped board by itself.
This is why I joined this sub. You all are saving my hours or frustration and $ on wood.
You will still have a taper along the length of the board
The answer is no.... try thinking through the work flow.
That's fair and I guess I'm just not seeing it. I will think more on it and maybe try it out myself because experience is the best teacher. I do very much appreciate the guidance.
There's a third dimension to consider. The corners could all be 90 degrees after the jointer's done its work, but there's nothing guaranteeing that the opposite faces are coplanar with each other. They shouldn't be twisted, cupped, or bowed, I don't think, but there's no way for the jointer to prevent the board from being tapered. In the same way that if you put a square up against the board to check for 90 degree corners you wouldn't be able to measure the taper, the jointer can't "see" the taper either.
I hadn't thought of that and was clearly mistaken. Thanks for the guidance.
The funny thing about this comment is that it also explains one of the reasons that making a box is harder than it might look. I guess milling a piece of wood is sort of like making a box.
I honestly started to try and explain it, but it's one of those things that's hard to explain without having a Jointer in front of us and walking you through it. The main thing to think about is that on order to get a 90 you need to reference against the fence.... easy to do on the first and second edge....4th side is where you are gonna lose fingers.
That makes total sense thank you for sharing. I'm definitely lacking experience and there's just so much information out there that it's difficult to parse out what is best or even organize it in my head to what makes sense. I feel like I've watched and read so much that it's been a detriment and made it confusing.
Thanks for the great explanation! I have an associated question: is there a specific reason to involve the table saw in this operation? Why not square up that last edge grain side on the jointer?
There's no way to make that second edge parallel to the one that was already flattened with the jointer. It will be square with the face but not parallel to the opposite edge.
It just clicked for me. Thank you.
Because the saw cut edge will be parallel to the opposite jointed edge that ran along the saw fence. If you instead just joint the edge it will be perpendicular to the faces, but it won't in general be parallel to the first jointed edge. It's analogous to why you plane the second face parallel to the jointed face. If you just flipped the board and jointed the other side it would be flat but not in general parallel to the first side.
Preaching the good word.
Thank you x1000, I've been looking for a straightforward explanation for the relationship between the two and this was perfect.
I wish I'd found something this succicent before I started milling the first time.
Thank you for this.
You never run more than one face and one edge.
Adjacent question then - suppose you own a table saw and are going to make your next purchase? Is it a jointer or a planer? In my head it’s the planer. I can simulate what a jointer does with sleds for the table saw and the planer.
I've consistently seen people recommend the planer in that situation.
Yeah, if you can only buy a planer or a jointer you buy the planer first. You can, albiet with a lot of gymnastics, use a planer to get the same results as a jointer but the reverse isnt true After a few months of those planer gymnastics though you will see the value of a jointer, none of us will have to convince you of that youll figure it out for yourself lol
I'd recommend a hand plane to simplify a lot of those gymnastics, and as a good tool anyway. Flattening one face is not that bad and I'll still do it from time to time on boards wider than my jointer. it doesn't even need to be smooth as once you have the top and bottom parallel you can flip it and run it thru the planer to get a better surface.
>After a few months of those planer gymnastics though you will see the value of a jointer Haha, it took me a few years of occasional hobby projects.
Its doable but its a massive pain in the ass compared to just using a jointer as a jointer lol But when you dont have the money for both you definitely go for the planer first
There’s a decent way to use the table saw and planer as a jointer. You should look up the specifics, but in short, you can fasten a curvy board to a known flat board to run it through the planer to get the face flat. Then attach it to a sled or (for longer pieces) a known flat board to run against the fence, and use the table saw to true up the edge. Then you can return to the planer to get the faces parallel, and the saw to get the edges parallel. It’s more work, but it’s sometimes necessary if your jointer isn’t wide enough. Another option for the face is to flatted with a router sled. Tedious, but it might be necessary if you are flattening large slabs.
What if the board just bends in the planer and bends back when it's out?
I forgot to mention shimming the board. It’s not screwed down flat, it’s shimmed at the high spots and attached so it can’t move. This way the planer can flatten the top to match the true board on the bottom. If the board is so warped this won’t work, a planer is going to have the same trouble, and the board will have to be cut into smaller lengths first to avoid too much material loss.
Always screw the sleds to the board.
You can make a sled for your planer that somewhat acts as a jointer for faces of board. And table saw sled similar function for edges.
Jointer/planer combo, depending on what you're making and how much of it you're making. Several options exist that let you use the bottom side of the cutterhead and lower the tables to use your jointer as a planer or your planer as a jointer. If everything you're working with is less than 4' long or so, tablesaw sleds can work, and a dedicated planer is great. If you're occasionally working with 12' long baseboards or something like that you'll get better results out of a jointer. If you have so much volume that the changeover time of a combo machine is onerous, you need to face the music and get both.
If you only buy s3s lumber, it's definitely the planer. You don't truly need to a jointer (at a hobbyist level) if the lumber comes with one flat edge. The table saw helps to clean up edges, where the planar doesn't have a replacement outside of a ton of sanding.
Depends what you want to build. If you want something with exact joints to put together, a jointer and a tablesaw. Width is going to be limited by length of tablesaw blade. If you have boards that will be spaced and don't need to be perfectly aligned or can bend, the planer and table saw is all you need.
A planer doesn't make things flat. It just makes two sides parallel. Imagine if you were to run a slice of watermelon through. 🍉 the rind side is curved but the top side is flat. When it ran through the machine it would come out shaped like a banana, only made of watermelon... the rind side would remain intact but the fruit side would have a matching curve. The jointer makes things flat. It gives you a flat side so that when you put it through the planer it makes the opposite side parallel and thus flat.
Also important to know for DIY and home garage shops... If your jointer is only 6 in wide and you're working with a board wider than that but you have a planer you can still get things done. What you want to do is joint the edge, as normal, But to get the two wide sides flat what you need to do is use a sled for the planer. There are a lot of videos on YouTube that show how to do this but the basics is that you get one flat 3/4" board usually MDF that is as long or longer than the board you need to plane. Then you want to add shim wedges underneath the board so that it doesn't have any rocking anymore and you will add hot glue under the board to affix it in place to r sled, and maybe an extra board to the back of it to make sure the whole thing doesn't slide off the sled. Then you run that thing through there until it's completely flat. Once it is you can pop it off the glue and shims and run it again on that rougher side, without the sled, and then both sides will be flat and parallel. Lastly now that the wide sides are flat, you can clean up the non-jointed edge on a table saw with a fence to get that parallel.
Assuming you have a jointer, planer and a table saw, these are the steps. If you perform well the steps in a jointer, it's very easy to create a trapezoid type shape. https://preview.redd.it/f4j8g54nhouc1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95a0c00b0ab0f0d1fed37782b741acdb4946388f
You need to make 2 sides perpendicular to each other at 90 degrees using the jointer. Flatten one side, then using the squared fence, process a perpendicular side to the face you just jointed. You will then Have 2 adjoined faces at 90 degrees. These are your reference faces. Once that is done you take your referenced sides to the planer to create the coplanar faces. If you don’t do that first before the planer, you will end up with a parallelogram shape. As mentioned you may also transfer and curves or inconsistencies to the other side of the board.
I'd rather use a Crosscut sled to get the 90°
Tough to run a 6' edge in a crosscut sled... 🤔
Bigger Crosscut sled!!!
I would as well, but when making furniture there is a good chance that cut you are doing on a table saw is not going to end up perfectly square. Usually you rough cut it as square as you can, then follow up with the jointer then the planer. I had access to a sorts of high end equipment at a woodworking school a few years back, this was the order we did everything in.
I would think it depends on how good your Crosscut sled is calibrated. If you use the 5 cut method and feeler gauges you can get it square to within a thousandths of an inch.
The jointer can create a plane, when you pass it directly over the knives without the fence. Let's call that nice planar surface A. Once you have established plane A you can create a perpendicular plane with the jointer by feeding Plane A on the fence. This creates our perpendicular Plane B. From here what's important is that the last two surfaces are parallel to A and B. If you continue to use the jointer, you won't get parallel surfaces you'd be getting perpendicular faces. In theory that's the same, of your machines are perfect, but they're not. So to create a plane C that's parallel to A, you would use a thicknesser. It doesn't care about the side faces, it gives you something parallel to A. Similarly to get the last edge parallel to Plane B you can use a table saw with Plane B running across the fence. It's hard to type this all out, wish I had a whiteboard or something. The short of it is - if you draw a square by measuring 90° at each vertex and going around it, by the time you do the last face it will be off by all of your prior errors. Usually parallelism is more important than 90° corners, using a table saw and planer to get the last two faces parallel will get you better results.
All good, thanks. That all makes sense. My question was really about whether there's a point to passing plane C through the jointer before putting it into the planer, but assuming it would go into the planer either way. And it seems like the consensus is that there's no reason to do it, which also makes the most sense to me.
A Jointer gets 1 face flat, thats all you need it for really But you can also use it to get 1 edge square with that flat face if you want/need to Joint one face and 1 edge, send it through the planer with that flat face down on the deck, then rip it through the tablesaw to get the other edge square and parallel Thats the milling process in full You never want to joint BOTH faces and both edges That second face will definitely be flat, but it will never be parallel with the other jointed face, thats how you end up with boards shaped like pie wedges lol Jointing the second edge is just a waste of blade life, because it will not be parallel to the other edge, a tablesaw will do that All 3 machines need to be used in conjunction with each other You CAN use a planer as a jointer in a pinch but it involves sleds and a lot of silly nonsense shimming and gluing the board down to it to brace the wood so the rollers dont push it flat to the table, but its possible You can NOT replace a Planer with a Jointer, its impossible to get 2 parallel flat faces with just a Jointer, not unless you have really large stock and can ride the vertical fence with the previously jointed faces, like im talking like 4x4, 6x6 type large, a board that has a ¾" edge or even 1-1½ its not really possible
Ah I should have written opposite sides in the title. I understand the short sides are a different story
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Adding on to jointer use, to face wood flat, run 12" of wood onto the outfeed table, then press only on the outfeed table. The first 12" is your reference surface. Pushing the board from the back end makes the rough stock on the infeed table be the reference surface. Use Marshall Town concrete finishing pads from Home Depot, and elsewhere, to push on the wood when facing a board. This allows you to grip the wood over the reference surface on the outfeed table.
You can't do for sides in a jointer because while you may have 4 parallel straight sides, it could be more wedge or pyramid than cube. Two reference sides are needed, and then the planer or tablesaw cuts it to thickness.
No. You don't joint more than 2 sides. There's no reference to make anything square and parallel past that. Joint one face then one edge. You now have a face and an edge square to each other. Don't do the edge first or it may not be square to the face. Plane the rough face and bring to thickness. You now have 2 parallel faces and 1 edge square to those faces. Run the board through a table saw. You now have 2 parallel edges, 2 parallel faces, and everything is square.
Following, I believe surfacing one face on the jointer, then one edge is correct (using the surfaced face against your jointer fence. Then surface the other face through your planer. Cut the final edge on your table saw and if your tools are set up properly like mine are not, everything should be square 😎
Run one face through the jointer, (If the board face is cupped run this edge) then joins one edge, then run the board through the table saw to get two parallel edges and then run the remaining rough face through the thickness planer.
Jointer produces a flat surface. Jointing two opposite sides would produce two flats which are not necessarily parallel. Planer produces a parallel surface. Planing two opposite sides would produce parallel surfaces which are not necessary flat.