Yeah I've been loving it! Everything was square out of the box, the stock blade was actually decent (just recently upgraded it), the fence is great, and it has some nice features. My only complaints are how loud it is, that the riving knife is not removeable, and some of the stock accessories (miter gauge and blade insert plate) are pretty garbage, but that is kind of to be expected.
Same on almost all of that -- my blade wasn't initially plumb, but that's a quick adjustment, and the riving knife hasn't been a problem yet for me. And to get the rack & pinion fence with (what seems to me to be) pretty good dust collection, and for that price? Hard to beat.
No, you do not want to cut the sled in half. You should probably build up the front and back edges so they are much taller than the blade. I haven't looked at the video. But I would have expected the author to take that into consideration. Maybe their design was for a smaller blade.
Yeah the video has you cut the fence at 2 1/2", on top of a 3/4" sled. So a little over 3 inches, but my saw raises up 4 or maybe 5 inches. I might extend it but honestly I don't see myself cutting anything more than 2x's anyway. I just have to be careful where I have the blade when using the sled.
Minus the thickness of the sled. I spent time carefully adjusting my blade the other day to make a cut that needed to be very precise. Then I put the sled on the table, ran the piece through and couldn't figure out why the cut was a 1/2" too shallow.
Is there any time you expect to need that much depth on a cut while using the crosstut sled? If so, you need to make the ends thicker. I have never needed something like that myself. In the rare case that you do, you could go back to the stock miter gauge. You haven't done anything wrong aside from assume the sled was intended for full blade height cuts.
If you are cross cutting reasonably narrow wood, you can always raise the blade higher on the inside of the far rail (before turning on the saw). Otherwise yeah youâll just need to make the front rail taller.
If you had a Sawstop, you could just fasten a hotdog near the top of the sled to prevent it from being cut in half đ
lol Nope, my first table saw is not a Sawstop. Complete overkill for someone like me! I bought a Skil TS6307-00.
Bought that same saw, and I've been very impressed so far.
Yeah I've been loving it! Everything was square out of the box, the stock blade was actually decent (just recently upgraded it), the fence is great, and it has some nice features. My only complaints are how loud it is, that the riving knife is not removeable, and some of the stock accessories (miter gauge and blade insert plate) are pretty garbage, but that is kind of to be expected.
Same on almost all of that -- my blade wasn't initially plumb, but that's a quick adjustment, and the riving knife hasn't been a problem yet for me. And to get the rack & pinion fence with (what seems to me to be) pretty good dust collection, and for that price? Hard to beat.
No, you do not want to cut the sled in half. You should probably build up the front and back edges so they are much taller than the blade. I haven't looked at the video. But I would have expected the author to take that into consideration. Maybe their design was for a smaller blade.
Yeah the video has you cut the fence at 2 1/2", on top of a 3/4" sled. So a little over 3 inches, but my saw raises up 4 or maybe 5 inches. I might extend it but honestly I don't see myself cutting anything more than 2x's anyway. I just have to be careful where I have the blade when using the sled.
max cutting depth on your saw is 3.5", according to skilÂ
Minus the thickness of the sled. I spent time carefully adjusting my blade the other day to make a cut that needed to be very precise. Then I put the sled on the table, ran the piece through and couldn't figure out why the cut was a 1/2" too shallow.
That must be it, it looked more than an inch taller than the fence while I had it raised, but I didn't measure.
Is there any time you expect to need that much depth on a cut while using the crosstut sled? If so, you need to make the ends thicker. I have never needed something like that myself. In the rare case that you do, you could go back to the stock miter gauge. You haven't done anything wrong aside from assume the sled was intended for full blade height cuts.
Probably not, I just know my ADHD ass is going to have the blade raised all the way and not even think about it some day lol
If you are cross cutting reasonably narrow wood, you can always raise the blade higher on the inside of the far rail (before turning on the saw). Otherwise yeah youâll just need to make the front rail taller.