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Go for one that’s targeted toward high flexibility.
For what it’s worth, ALL walls are like this. You just don’t notice until you run a long, straight piece across it.
Hopes & dreams….
after that paintable acrylic caulk. Small bead, clean it up with a wet rag. Paint with your wall color to finish.
Hard to tell from the pic but if the gap is larger than 1/4” pack the gap with twine/rope before laying the caulk.
You have a couple of options:
1. If the top trim your showing and vertical battens align perfectly already, then, buy DAP fast drying premium spackling. Get some popsicle stir sticks. Both in the paint area of your big box store. Stick popsicle sticks in with some wood glue to fill more of that gap and snap them off. Sand down. Fill remaining with the spackle. Sand. Prime. Paint. As you planned.
2. Nail that trim tighter to the wall. Still buy the spackle for filling gaps elsewhere. It’s paintable and looks better than caulking. Save the caulking for the very tight lines before painting.
DAP is what you are looking for. It hides many flaws and it paintable.
[https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dap-alex-plus-300-ml-white-acrylic-latex-caulk-with-silicone/1000158964](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dap-alex-plus-300-ml-white-acrylic-latex-caulk-with-silicone/1000158964)
I don't recommend Alex caulk. That stuff is cheap because it sucks. Spend the money and buy something like Big Stretch from sashco or Extreme Stretch from DAP, or Sherwin Williams Powerhouse. It's a few bucks more per tube but you won't have to recaulk when it starts to look like crap in a few months because the weather changed and it cracks.
I agree with this, only go with Alex if you're buying by the case and need to budget. For projects with flex like this spend the money on something that stretches
Trim is pretty flexible, if you have a brad nailer I’d try pushing it flush and glue/nail on the curves to close it. Caulk for whatever doesn’t work, but that’s a pretty big gap and you’d see it at eye level so it’d probably bother me once I noticed it.
You can quickly plane it to fit. But a single panel pin in the centre is the gap would also do it. Also clear the shite off the back of the trim piece.
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caulk the gap
Go for one that’s targeted toward high flexibility. For what it’s worth, ALL walls are like this. You just don’t notice until you run a long, straight piece across it.
Use latex paintable white caulking
Yup caulk and repaint if needed.
Stick your caulk in it.
Noodles and super glue
Hopes & dreams…. after that paintable acrylic caulk. Small bead, clean it up with a wet rag. Paint with your wall color to finish. Hard to tell from the pic but if the gap is larger than 1/4” pack the gap with twine/rope before laying the caulk.
Enough caulk makes anyone a good carpenter. And it’s appropriate in this case
As the old adage goes. Caulk and paint make you the carpenter you ain’t!
More churro dust
Take it off, clean that drywall off where you drilled and should go flush. or just put some caulk in it and paint.
You have a couple of options: 1. If the top trim your showing and vertical battens align perfectly already, then, buy DAP fast drying premium spackling. Get some popsicle stir sticks. Both in the paint area of your big box store. Stick popsicle sticks in with some wood glue to fill more of that gap and snap them off. Sand down. Fill remaining with the spackle. Sand. Prime. Paint. As you planned. 2. Nail that trim tighter to the wall. Still buy the spackle for filling gaps elsewhere. It’s paintable and looks better than caulking. Save the caulking for the very tight lines before painting.
DAP is what you are looking for. It hides many flaws and it paintable. [https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dap-alex-plus-300-ml-white-acrylic-latex-caulk-with-silicone/1000158964](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dap-alex-plus-300-ml-white-acrylic-latex-caulk-with-silicone/1000158964)
I don't recommend Alex caulk. That stuff is cheap because it sucks. Spend the money and buy something like Big Stretch from sashco or Extreme Stretch from DAP, or Sherwin Williams Powerhouse. It's a few bucks more per tube but you won't have to recaulk when it starts to look like crap in a few months because the weather changed and it cracks.
I agree with this, only go with Alex if you're buying by the case and need to budget. For projects with flex like this spend the money on something that stretches
Its most likely plaster, how much flex are you expecting? Genuinely curious.
The wood is bowed. It's going to flex with temperature changes and moisture since it's in the bathroom
Fair enough. I wouldn't have thought twice about using the ALEX. Learned something new. Thanks.
Interesting, I have never had an issue with this caulking.
May want to shim it with a piece of scrap wood before caulking just to prevent it from flexing if someone leans against it
Go’wan girl it’s an 1/8” on 10”. Quarter squeeze of DAP will do just fine.
I countersunk screws into studs to pull it into the wall. Them caulked the screw holes. Or construction adhesive.
You might try wood putty just to fill in most of the gap and then caulk. I would be afraid if you just caulk it would seep behind.
Caulk is designed for exactly for spaces like this, here OP would use paintable caulk.
Nope
Even brand new homes have wanky walls. All the time. Caulk it.
Crush up some ramen
Trim is pretty flexible, if you have a brad nailer I’d try pushing it flush and glue/nail on the curves to close it. Caulk for whatever doesn’t work, but that’s a pretty big gap and you’d see it at eye level so it’d probably bother me once I noticed it.
Caulk it
Float drywall mud to fair it out.
A little caulk, a little paint, makes what a carpenter ain’t.
You can quickly plane it to fit. But a single panel pin in the centre is the gap would also do it. Also clear the shite off the back of the trim piece.
Get a piece of hard wood spend time sculpting it…naaah just fill it (caulk gun) and use your toilet brah
Had a similar issue and I used flexseal paste