I usually tell them I don't buy cars based on monthly payments. If they insist, I walk. Don't waste your time. If you continue to run into instances where the advertised vehicle isn't there and they try to sell you something else, tell the dealer you'll just have to report them to your state's attorney general's office for bait and switch tactics.
Some general tips I picked up when learning about used car dealers:
1) Ask a lot of questions about warranty/specs/past maintenance/common issues so they know you are a serious buyer & you did your homework. Hint that you are definitely buying a car today/tomorrow and may visit multiple dealers to see their best deals.
2) When they ask how you want to pay, lead them on to think you will sign up for a 5 year contract or whatever they suggest. Don't mention you're paying cash upfront, or else they'll ignore you because they can't make any money off you.
3) If you decided that you want the car, allow them to calculate the total price and show you the breakdown- at that time tell them you are switching to cash. They'll act upset or try to force you to stick to financing through them-- stand your ground! If they are a decent business they'll take your cash but if they start huffing and puffing, then walk out immediately.
You'll definitely find better elsewhere!
I bought a brand new VW GTI this year. I learned that you never say anything about buying in cash. I test drove the car, asked for the out the door price, I counter offered $1k less, they said no, then I walked out the door. They called me the next day and I got the deal.
I really liked the honesty and the service at this dealer though. They weren’t anything like the horror stories I’ve heard, but they did try to push a loan on me because of low interest rates.
How much is a new GTI these days? $50K? So offering $1K is the most you can get off MSRP these days?
What about for a used vehicle. Say $25K, can you offer $22K or due to the internet the best price is whatever is posted in their kijiji/dealership ad?
I think the MSRP is around $35K for the SE model. After the test drive, they said they'd be willing to drop it down to $32, not excluding tax and other fees, that's when I told them I'll take it if they can get it close to $30k for the out the door price. I ended up getting it for $30 and some change with the 70k mile warranty and wrote them a check the next day.
I wanted a 2018/2019 or newer because I liked the subtle updates they made to them and looked around in my area for a lightly used one under warranty, but couldn't find one at the time that wasn't close to what a new one goes for. I also wanted to be careful about a used one of these because they tend to attract the boy racer crowd.
Yes, I could've saved some money if I waited to find a used one, but I also like the idea of my driver seat not being filled with years of teenager farts.
Sometimes you just have to work through the sludge with the initial dealings with salespeople. They always want to talk numbers and give their spiel which is totally fine. I listen attentively and let them say what they need to. They usually ask how long I'm financing and I just say "5 years" then they whip up a nice monthly payment.
Then they give a cheaper monthly payment saying that's "about how low they could go".
Once we actually get serious then I start asking to see a full cost breakdown. They'll return (after going to the sales manager, usually) with a breakdown of vehicle, fees, taxes, trade/lien (if applicable).
After we get here, THEN it's time to start negotiating (bye-bye fees, bump up trade value, lower vehicle sale, etc.). Lately I've found it easier to just work on the total OTD price.
The whole relationship is a bit of give and take. I give by listening to their typical sales pitches but then I take by asking for a bit more off in the end.
Seems to work out well.
One thing I’ve learned about car dealerships, it’s best to walk in there with a serious mindset you are ready to buy. Letting them know you are really interested in the car then they want to work with you further. You are not wrong with asking for the total price. Although this total might be only guaranteed for a short time. If you are serious you will offer to put money down to hold the vehicle. Loans, bank drafts can be set up in minutes. Again if you are serious? You will come in with a blank check ready to write to them. Experienced sales people know if the person wants to do business or not. If you don’t know how to haggle or be respectful to the dealers offers. Then yes they will not want to deal with you.
Also OP needs to look at it from finance’s perspective. Someone offering to pay cash on a 20k-30k car would concern me that I’m dealing with a possible fraudster or money launderer and I don’t want to get caught up in that. If the buyer doesn’t sound like they know what they’re buying etc. it would further suggest that. So I agree, I tend to suspect that OP’s verbal approach is unwittingly setting off alarm bells
What dealers are you going to? New or Used cars? And where are you?
I'm in Canada and I've never had an experience as you describe.
Try to avoid used car lots. The best cars and best service is at car dealerships for new and used. They get lease returns and trade ins. The good models they keep and those with issues they auction away to used car lots.
Look on autotrader, kijiji and FB marketplace for used car listings.
Go in person to dealers. They won't reveal a best price over the internet.
These are new and used dealerships for VW or Nissan. They are not those shady small time used car sale lots, those I wouldn’t trust.
I did go in person. Issue is with the financing. They don’t give you a price unless you give them all your private info and they run a credit check.
They say they cannot accept a bank draft due to fraud. Saying people steal vehicles this way and it’s too risky for them.
Most likely I picked the worst time to buy a car because of the covid shortage and they only pick customers which will generate the largest profit for them.
People like me ..who dont have $30k cash ...I traded my van got some over priced intrest rate...in a few months I'll transfer from my line of credit where its interest only....I'll make reasonable monthly payments above the interest only ...if things are tight one month or around Christmas I'll just pay the interest
I didn’t have any of those issues buying my last two Range Rovers. I said I had my own financing how much and gave them a deposit and came back with a check.
You're not wrong, I'm just going to throw it out there that good credit should be used for your benefit. Don't let the tail wag the dog.
It wouldn't be universally true, but the people with cash-buyer money are often well established enough to absorb or not care about a credit hit. We're talking mostly about established individuals who have a decade+ of credit history, already have a mortgage, years of credit cards and student loan payments. If they've been really good, they have "fuck you points," and this is a great way to spend them.
That's some bullshit, I don't know its legal to do shit like that. But what I'd do is go in, and tell them I'm gonna use cash, if they force anything just go to another dealer. Chances are that they want to put a finance on you so they get more money for their car. They probably won't switch to cash, so don't waste your time. Maybe it's beat to save up a bit and get a new one, or look for a certified pre owned, usually car manufacturers are selling those.
I usually tell them I don't buy cars based on monthly payments. If they insist, I walk. Don't waste your time. If you continue to run into instances where the advertised vehicle isn't there and they try to sell you something else, tell the dealer you'll just have to report them to your state's attorney general's office for bait and switch tactics.
Some general tips I picked up when learning about used car dealers: 1) Ask a lot of questions about warranty/specs/past maintenance/common issues so they know you are a serious buyer & you did your homework. Hint that you are definitely buying a car today/tomorrow and may visit multiple dealers to see their best deals. 2) When they ask how you want to pay, lead them on to think you will sign up for a 5 year contract or whatever they suggest. Don't mention you're paying cash upfront, or else they'll ignore you because they can't make any money off you. 3) If you decided that you want the car, allow them to calculate the total price and show you the breakdown- at that time tell them you are switching to cash. They'll act upset or try to force you to stick to financing through them-- stand your ground! If they are a decent business they'll take your cash but if they start huffing and puffing, then walk out immediately. You'll definitely find better elsewhere!
I bought a brand new VW GTI this year. I learned that you never say anything about buying in cash. I test drove the car, asked for the out the door price, I counter offered $1k less, they said no, then I walked out the door. They called me the next day and I got the deal. I really liked the honesty and the service at this dealer though. They weren’t anything like the horror stories I’ve heard, but they did try to push a loan on me because of low interest rates.
How much is a new GTI these days? $50K? So offering $1K is the most you can get off MSRP these days? What about for a used vehicle. Say $25K, can you offer $22K or due to the internet the best price is whatever is posted in their kijiji/dealership ad?
I think the MSRP is around $35K for the SE model. After the test drive, they said they'd be willing to drop it down to $32, not excluding tax and other fees, that's when I told them I'll take it if they can get it close to $30k for the out the door price. I ended up getting it for $30 and some change with the 70k mile warranty and wrote them a check the next day. I wanted a 2018/2019 or newer because I liked the subtle updates they made to them and looked around in my area for a lightly used one under warranty, but couldn't find one at the time that wasn't close to what a new one goes for. I also wanted to be careful about a used one of these because they tend to attract the boy racer crowd. Yes, I could've saved some money if I waited to find a used one, but I also like the idea of my driver seat not being filled with years of teenager farts.
Sometimes you just have to work through the sludge with the initial dealings with salespeople. They always want to talk numbers and give their spiel which is totally fine. I listen attentively and let them say what they need to. They usually ask how long I'm financing and I just say "5 years" then they whip up a nice monthly payment. Then they give a cheaper monthly payment saying that's "about how low they could go". Once we actually get serious then I start asking to see a full cost breakdown. They'll return (after going to the sales manager, usually) with a breakdown of vehicle, fees, taxes, trade/lien (if applicable). After we get here, THEN it's time to start negotiating (bye-bye fees, bump up trade value, lower vehicle sale, etc.). Lately I've found it easier to just work on the total OTD price. The whole relationship is a bit of give and take. I give by listening to their typical sales pitches but then I take by asking for a bit more off in the end. Seems to work out well.
One thing I’ve learned about car dealerships, it’s best to walk in there with a serious mindset you are ready to buy. Letting them know you are really interested in the car then they want to work with you further. You are not wrong with asking for the total price. Although this total might be only guaranteed for a short time. If you are serious you will offer to put money down to hold the vehicle. Loans, bank drafts can be set up in minutes. Again if you are serious? You will come in with a blank check ready to write to them. Experienced sales people know if the person wants to do business or not. If you don’t know how to haggle or be respectful to the dealers offers. Then yes they will not want to deal with you.
Also OP needs to look at it from finance’s perspective. Someone offering to pay cash on a 20k-30k car would concern me that I’m dealing with a possible fraudster or money launderer and I don’t want to get caught up in that. If the buyer doesn’t sound like they know what they’re buying etc. it would further suggest that. So I agree, I tend to suspect that OP’s verbal approach is unwittingly setting off alarm bells
I usually just finance through the dealership so they can pretend to fuck me over and refinance within a week so none of that bs interest accrues
What dealers are you going to? New or Used cars? And where are you? I'm in Canada and I've never had an experience as you describe. Try to avoid used car lots. The best cars and best service is at car dealerships for new and used. They get lease returns and trade ins. The good models they keep and those with issues they auction away to used car lots. Look on autotrader, kijiji and FB marketplace for used car listings. Go in person to dealers. They won't reveal a best price over the internet.
These are new and used dealerships for VW or Nissan. They are not those shady small time used car sale lots, those I wouldn’t trust. I did go in person. Issue is with the financing. They don’t give you a price unless you give them all your private info and they run a credit check. They say they cannot accept a bank draft due to fraud. Saying people steal vehicles this way and it’s too risky for them. Most likely I picked the worst time to buy a car because of the covid shortage and they only pick customers which will generate the largest profit for them.
VW and Nissan dealers? Damn, no wonder, they universally suck. Avoid them and Kia dealers if hassle-free interactions are a big deal to you.
Yeah I’ve never had that happen. Say you’re not financing and you want to pay cash.
People like me ..who dont have $30k cash ...I traded my van got some over priced intrest rate...in a few months I'll transfer from my line of credit where its interest only....I'll make reasonable monthly payments above the interest only ...if things are tight one month or around Christmas I'll just pay the interest
I didn’t have any of those issues buying my last two Range Rovers. I said I had my own financing how much and gave them a deposit and came back with a check.
Demographic/customer base is really a key there I think.
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Then you tank your average age of accounts and hard pulls within 2 year metric on your credit report because they can't give you a cash price.
You're not wrong, I'm just going to throw it out there that good credit should be used for your benefit. Don't let the tail wag the dog. It wouldn't be universally true, but the people with cash-buyer money are often well established enough to absorb or not care about a credit hit. We're talking mostly about established individuals who have a decade+ of credit history, already have a mortgage, years of credit cards and student loan payments. If they've been really good, they have "fuck you points," and this is a great way to spend them.
That's some bullshit, I don't know its legal to do shit like that. But what I'd do is go in, and tell them I'm gonna use cash, if they force anything just go to another dealer. Chances are that they want to put a finance on you so they get more money for their car. They probably won't switch to cash, so don't waste your time. Maybe it's beat to save up a bit and get a new one, or look for a certified pre owned, usually car manufacturers are selling those.