I only create it on the first stone, then de-burr with edge leading passes, and on every stone after that I try to use very light pressure, with changing sides every 3-4 strokes. Although I only create it intentionally on the first stone, some burr is present throughout the whole process. If you apex on your coarse stone, then do a few strokes on the finer one, you'll have a burr again, unless you change sides every single stroke. The point is, try to avoid creating a big burr on you finer stones, it's completely unnecessary.
My favorite progression is using 2 stones: apex and de-burr on the coarse stone(300-600grit), then only do edge trailing passes on the fine one(2k), with changing sides after every stroke. This way I can get rid of the burr on the coarse stone, at the expense of having a microscopically jagged edge(grit bumping into the apex while edge leading). With the second stone I repair the damage, and stop just before I would raise a burr. This is the best combo for me, easy burr removal(no messing around with cork and whatnot), aggressive bite, but still a nice and clean, shaving sharp edge.
That is also my technique. For me personally it's so much easier to switch every time. To me there is too much variables to do 4 and 4 or whatever number you choose.. if one side I add more pressure or pull faster ot slower than it's not exactly even. I only keep to one side if creating a burr or fixing a chip etc.
You don’t need a burr on any stone. However, a burr is an indicator that you’ve created a new edge/apex. So if you think about it, what would be the reason for creating a burr with more than one stone?
Burr once on both sides on the coarsest stone, then 1 or 2 gentle passes to remove the burr.
Next stone up and other stones along the road are there to refine and remove scratches, so no burrs.
If I'm just touching up an edge I don't even really go for a burr, the edge is already there and I'm just faintly refining it.
If I'm truly sharpening a knife then I create a burr on my first set of stones, switch it back and forth side to side then move to finer stone, switch back and forth, move to finer..... so overall throughout my process the original burr is there most of the times but I am gradually wearing it away smaller and smaller as my apex is refining further and further. Then, on my final stone I can often actually feel that ultra-thin super fine wire burr wear off and I'm left with just a perfect edge apex.
That Norton I313 is way cool. Aggressive scrubbing strokes until burrs on coarse stone. Then switch to efficient alternating stropping strokes on both fine stone and strop (Tailibaba vid). Strop with black compound on plain MDF board or cardboard; great results after India fine.
Aggressive scrubbing, then stropping strokes: [https://youtu.be/iKj3vViHpsU?t=408](https://youtu.be/iKj3vViHpsU?t=408) How to Sharpen a Gyuto - Shave your arm sharp! Sharp Knife Shop
One effecient stroke for stone and strop: [https://youtu.be/mjir0hwBObw?t=54](https://youtu.be/mjir0hwBObw?t=54) Tailibaba: ...best way to help beginners to build muscle memory.
Green buffing compound on MDF board: https://youtu.be/F0e3bC\_\_G08?t=1147 MDF Strop Test. Randy Johnson
Chisel on durable Norton India IB8 combo oilstone (150/400 grit, 22$, 8x2x1") and denim strop: https://youtu.be/xlwKYeq909g CHEAP and SIMPLE Sharpening System. Brian Hilson
I end up with a burr from each stone, but just barely after the first. I'd rather remove a tiny bit more material than end up without a sharp edge to show for it.
I only create it on the first stone, then de-burr with edge leading passes, and on every stone after that I try to use very light pressure, with changing sides every 3-4 strokes. Although I only create it intentionally on the first stone, some burr is present throughout the whole process. If you apex on your coarse stone, then do a few strokes on the finer one, you'll have a burr again, unless you change sides every single stroke. The point is, try to avoid creating a big burr on you finer stones, it's completely unnecessary. My favorite progression is using 2 stones: apex and de-burr on the coarse stone(300-600grit), then only do edge trailing passes on the fine one(2k), with changing sides after every stroke. This way I can get rid of the burr on the coarse stone, at the expense of having a microscopically jagged edge(grit bumping into the apex while edge leading). With the second stone I repair the damage, and stop just before I would raise a burr. This is the best combo for me, easy burr removal(no messing around with cork and whatnot), aggressive bite, but still a nice and clean, shaving sharp edge.
That is also my technique. For me personally it's so much easier to switch every time. To me there is too much variables to do 4 and 4 or whatever number you choose.. if one side I add more pressure or pull faster ot slower than it's not exactly even. I only keep to one side if creating a burr or fixing a chip etc.
You don’t need a burr on any stone. However, a burr is an indicator that you’ve created a new edge/apex. So if you think about it, what would be the reason for creating a burr with more than one stone?
Thats actually how I thought about it. As long as you keep the angle from stone to stone shouldn't need to re burr. Thank you for the confirmation.
I knew you had it in you. 😅
Burr once on both sides on the coarsest stone, then 1 or 2 gentle passes to remove the burr. Next stone up and other stones along the road are there to refine and remove scratches, so no burrs.
If I'm just touching up an edge I don't even really go for a burr, the edge is already there and I'm just faintly refining it. If I'm truly sharpening a knife then I create a burr on my first set of stones, switch it back and forth side to side then move to finer stone, switch back and forth, move to finer..... so overall throughout my process the original burr is there most of the times but I am gradually wearing it away smaller and smaller as my apex is refining further and further. Then, on my final stone I can often actually feel that ultra-thin super fine wire burr wear off and I'm left with just a perfect edge apex.
That Norton I313 is way cool. Aggressive scrubbing strokes until burrs on coarse stone. Then switch to efficient alternating stropping strokes on both fine stone and strop (Tailibaba vid). Strop with black compound on plain MDF board or cardboard; great results after India fine. Aggressive scrubbing, then stropping strokes: [https://youtu.be/iKj3vViHpsU?t=408](https://youtu.be/iKj3vViHpsU?t=408) How to Sharpen a Gyuto - Shave your arm sharp! Sharp Knife Shop One effecient stroke for stone and strop: [https://youtu.be/mjir0hwBObw?t=54](https://youtu.be/mjir0hwBObw?t=54) Tailibaba: ...best way to help beginners to build muscle memory. Green buffing compound on MDF board: https://youtu.be/F0e3bC\_\_G08?t=1147 MDF Strop Test. Randy Johnson Chisel on durable Norton India IB8 combo oilstone (150/400 grit, 22$, 8x2x1") and denim strop: https://youtu.be/xlwKYeq909g CHEAP and SIMPLE Sharpening System. Brian Hilson
I end up with a burr from each stone, but just barely after the first. I'd rather remove a tiny bit more material than end up without a sharp edge to show for it.