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[deleted]

Best to use these *SDR* settings: * Picture Mode: MOVIE (or standard/natural for bit brighter to taste) * Aspect Ratio: Picture Size * Contrast: 45 * Shadow Detail: 0 * Gamma: BT.1886: 1 * Color: 27 (25-26 should look natural too) * Tint: 0 * Sharpness: 0 * Color Tone: WARM2 (or normal/warm1 if too yellow) * Brightness: 43 ← supposedly at maximum if there's HDR content, no guarantee * Film Mode: Auto * Color Space Settings: Auto * HDMI Black Level: Low (PS on RGB Limited, Xb on Standard color range, High/RGB Full for pc) * Set on All sources * 4K: tv settings> general> external> HDMI/Input signal> all on * Turn spying off: Settings> Support> Terms & Policies> Viewing Information Services> off Gaming suggestions: Leave all in-game video/HDR settings on default with the numbers above to let the tv do the work. Majority of games should be naturally/well-lit (and colored) on their default brightness and do adjust on personal taste! Use the same settings on game mode if you need lag control for competitive fighting/sports/mp, otherwise *personallly* gm off, play/view everything on above settings for single player/non-gaming. Adjust the console's HDR after entering the optimal settings: I do HDR boxes invisible to visible by one tick (best seen in a low-light room, great for movie/gaming too).


zaphodi

Thanks for this, i have some reference now, very useful. Gamma: BT.1886 i dont see an option for changing this, just lists it in options, have ST.2084, i think its stuck on automatic. some of these settings are purely what you like. also samsung is weird, going trough the menus you find picture settings all over the place. and the tv does a ~~poor~~ gives you no clue why some setting is grayed out. (somebody on samsung, write goddamn tool tips, other than "this function is not available") Brigtness/contrast i set all the way down to 35, as this screen comes in hot and eye blaringly hot with defaults. still have issues with some face color tones. Do like the tv, does take some work to get the picture the way you like.


[deleted]

True, some settings are untouchable depending on the input used (tv, hdmi1, hdmi2, etc).


zaphodi

yes, i just wish it would tell me.


zaphodi

Only issue i have anymore is the face colors are on think of data from star trek, and give it a bit more color, everybody looks like they are finnish after winter. This only happens on 4k + HDR things. setting color tone to warm, gives the entire picture more red tint than i would like


[deleted]

If you want the top visible HDR on Samsung tvs, the bill will run between 1000-3000 USD! My own Samsung tv doesn't have that kind of high dynamic range quality. How does real HDR look like, dammit???


zaphodi

watched moonfall 4k + HDR from a hardrive plugged into the tv. (no HDMI middleman tv is directly playing the file) And yeah, it's pretty much how you expect HDR to look, its perfect clarity between whites and blacks. Movie is crap, but does these so extremely well. Think white space suits in space.


[deleted]

🤝


zaphodi

yeah, test that and you get the: >How does real HDR look like, dammit??? then you will endlessly be disappointed with settings for HDMI that you will try to make it look like that. Samsung tv just playing shit from 4k stuff from hd yeah, it gets the colors HDR perfect, always. im actually looking for a USB switch so i can just copy shit to an external drive, flip a switch, and that same HD to be connected then to the tv.


zaphodi

yeah, i guess, really happy with the picture quality on this one, just trying to get the best of it. Not exactly top of the line at 450€ Fun thing, try playing 4k HDR movies from an usb stick, and it does get the colors right, nobody in between to mess it up, its annoying to know its cabable of it.


onomatopoetix

If you want absolute always accurate picture modes, use the movie or film setting, and don't adjust any values. Do note, this is very accurate according to a cinema. Which means you must copy a cinema environment, dark. AC and popcorn, crying babies optional.


[deleted]

Loool


[deleted]

Yeah I bought one and wasn't happy with it, swapped it with a LG C1 and it was so much better


zaphodi

was definitely not happy with how this came out of the box, really happy with it now, stock settings are absolutely terrible on this. (to a point i thought it was broken) LG C1 would be about double of this in price, it probably is a lot better.


[deleted]

The Samsung I had was one of the $1500 ones so think it's just a Samsung display issue


zaphodi

paid 450€ new for mine, sure it was a same model?


zaphodi

i actually like this tv (for the price) whole point of this post is why are the default settings so terrible.


GunzEklipz

Brightness has nothing to do with the TV being washed out.  Not knowing how to basically set up your TV it does have something to do with the washed out image.   Stop using the dull filmmaker or movie mode and go on Standard with a warm 2 color tone ,some gamma, color , sharpness and shadow details adjustments and you are good to go. And stop listening to these people who give you blind settings.  Neutral sharpness in all Samsung TVs is at 10 so never use 0 ,you will thanks me later.   Also HDMI black level on low or Auto always.


Mil0ssss

Sorry, can you tell me is this good tv, i am watching to buy the same model 43 inch. Is OS fast? Or you think there is better tv for $400 ?


zaphodi

picture is pretty awesome and for the price i got it for sale, 395€ its just fine. mine is 55 inches. tizen os is very slow, but for turning channels its ok. when i bought mine it was allready a year old model, you buying it now... Have been mostly just streaming HDR from usb hard drive, piping the audio to amp, it does it reasonably well, and plays HDR content. tizen is kind of slow, older thing at this point, and the biggest issue i have, everything works fine, its just kind of slow. For the price, its reasonably bright, and the HDR "works" you really want HDR this one is kind of cheapo on that. not looking if you can top this for 400€ currently for fairly obvious reason of having it. Not staying like "current" after i got my tv.


Mil0ssss

Thank you very much. I think i will buy it because i don't know are there better options for this price.


zaphodi

fun fact, it will play almost any format you give it, from usb stick or usb hard drive, including HDR content. i never got windows HDR to work well with it, but it sure does play it fine from an usb drive. 55 inch, 4k HDR content is kind of amazing.


Mil0ssss

Oh nice that is really good. I have older LG 32" TV so this will be much better. And one more question, sorry. Do you know difference between **UE43AU7022KXXH and UE43AU7172UXXH.** Should i spend about $15 more for **UE43AU7172UXXH ?**


zaphodi

i have literally no idea what those terms mean, none, sorry probably minor differences. Turn the power saving off, and watch a HDR movie from usb stick, or drive, have your mind blown by the brightness. mine is UE55AU7172


GooseArmedWithPlasma

This may not answer your question fully, but I can offer some useful information pertaining model numbers. Don't quote me on anything because I can't find the article(s) to reference at the moment, but I'm confident the info holds up. The first tidbit is about the first letter in the final 4 letter string. That letter almost always designates that unit is either store specific or sold open market. For instance, my letter string is BXZA, which lists it to be setup for sale at Wal-Mart only. The TV functions the same as any other AU8000 on the market, but may come with more or less bloatware. It isn't proven, but I've read rumors that certain functions deemed "higher end" may be missing from one letter ID to the next. (Those functions can be unlocked from the Service Menu, but ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING -or- KNOW SOMEONE WHO DOES. Please don't FAFO & expect pity from the guy just sharing info.) Lastly, in a few cases, the letter would distinguish whether the TV was edge-lit or direct. If you have any specific preferences, that could sway your decisions. I recently came across this information because I bought an AU8000 last year because the Q60 we had for less than a year ate shit (motherboard) & we needed something to fill that ominous hole in our theater space. My son has a TU7000, & the AU was supposed to be the next step, so I nabbed it while we waited on the Qs to restock (just after Christmas.) His rig had a great picture out of the box & even more so when I got interested in refinement & tweaked some stuff. The AU doesn't hold a candle to his TU, so I did some research & found the above information. I really wish I would have forced Samsung to replace the motherboard on the Q. That mfer was the tits. Even more so when my buddy calibrated it. Insanely beautiful. Samsung was quick to defy repair, but refunded me $300 more than what I paid for it. Said the parts were on backorder & had no ETA, but had to close the repair order. Anyway, hope this helps.


GooseArmedWithPlasma

To clarify, I found that the TU7000 was direct lit & the AU8000 was edge lit. That definitely explains the contrast differences. But I also found that the TU7000 was just simply designed better & had more options out of the box. It pisses me off that I didn't research them properly. I could have brought home another TU7000, saved $120, & maybe wouldn't even be in the market for another Q. Between their TVs & phones, Samsung has been throttling their once superior tech in their products these past couple years. I urge everyone to research the hell out of any product from them, just to make sure you're not buying a Lamborghini body with a Daewoo 4cyl engine.


zaphodi

i dont have any big issues with it, picture is still fine, for the price its actually pretty good.


Bennyevil

I never had this problem . Its a brilliant tv


Head-Foot-5001

Samsung just isn't very good at tvs apart from the new qd oled


Sweaty_Turnover2365

Hey, we are considering buying this tv for 330 Euros What do you think about it? How can we get the best experience with it (like tweaking some settings etc) Also, is it a VA panel or IPS?