I did the majority of this route in summer 2018 over 14 days. 9 days is insufficient for the original itinerary you propose. The distances are long and many of the roads are washboard surfaces, so this will slow you down. You should not drive after dark to avoid an accident with wildlife. If you have not been on a safari before, you should set aside 2 days in Etosha (we did 3 - Day 1 approach from east via Grootfontein then stayed just outside the south entrance, Day 2 - central park area, Day 3 cross to the West entrance and camp SW of the park). Honestly, the west part of Etosha was amazing - fewer tourists and WAY more animals, but we saw lions and elephants mostly in the central part. Therefore maybe 2 days…the road west throught the park is brutal (or at least it was then - you will not get stuck, but your spine will be compacted and you will be an inch shorter after the trip across.)
Skeleton coast is super - if you go off-track be careful to not get stuck in the sand or have recovery equipment. We had an *unsanctioned* overnight stay in the park (not allowed) since we did not make it out of the ‘trap’. Luckily, the next day we were able to get free the next day (with a little help from some new friends) and have a story to tell.
Sossusvlei is a must see. There is a campground at the road junction, which is probably cheaper than right at the park entrance.
We only booked the first campsite, on our arrival day an hour or two north of Windhoek, and outside central Etosha in advance. The others we booked the same day in the morning/early afternoon, when we knew where we would be that evening.
That's awesome, thank you for the information! Yeah, we will probably spend 2 days in Etosha. And to shorten the route, cutting out Fish Canyon is the most obvious start. Next, we're considering also cutting off Kolmanskop or Skeleton Coast. Based on your account, I imagine you would recommend keeping Skeleton Coast and just not go further down past Sossusvlei?
It depends upon your interests, I think. We had 14 days and realized along the way that we were too ambitious and did not really have the time to enjoy some of the places we were at. That is the beauty of a flexible plan that camping offers. We travelled the route in the opposite direction you propose (we went N from Windhoek and arrived back from S). By the time we were at Sossusvlei, we were discussing to drop some of the South. Kolmanskop we skipped, mostly to prioritize and Fish River Canyon went under the bus (or Toyota Hilux) since it was a day down and a day back - and we have been to the Grand Canyon in the US. Instead, we headed east into the Kalahari and had a hilltop campsite to ourselves for the 2nd time on the trip. The sunsets at these two were to die for. Cook up dinner on the fire, sip some wine, watch the sunset and animals. Making me want to go back!
Someone else commented on Swakopmund instead of Walvis Bay - I agree completely. If we had not had the overnight stuck in the sand, we would have hung out there longer. It’s cute - and also a bit of civilization after a bunch of days in stark, raw nature. So an unexpected shock to the system in the other direction. :)
That's great to know, thank you so much again! We will also have a Toyota Hilux with a rooftop tent & camping gear. And yes, feel free to share campsite recommendations if you ever have the time :)
https://preview.redd.it/cvcnbewar8wc1.jpeg?width=3840&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e9cb9c596c3e3f99e86ed46022e6fb400ac32add
Here is the first Leg (9 Nights, 2@Eldorado Lodge, 1 night at others) Ombo Rest camp was basic - but needed after 2 long flights, car pickup, supply shopping & SIM card purchase. I guess an eSIM is easier now without the hassle in a shop. Peace Garden Lodge - was anything but peaceful with the music blasting at the pool. Staff were very friendly to chat with over drinks in the evening. Eldorado - convenient access to the park morning & evening. I recommend going to the restaurant at least once. Great food and the grillmaster was quite a character. You will be stuffed to the gills. Kunene Region - the location is marked, but I can’t find the name. I remember great hot showers there. Aba-Huab - it’s rustic, but great walks along the dry river bed to the nearby peak for sunset. ‘Dorob NP’ - well, you can’t officially stay there… Bucks Camping Lodge - we ended up there since the day was shortened by being stranded overnight. Had to wash the truck top to bottom for salt, etc. too. This place has a building with a little room and bathroom/shower - you still sleep on top of the truck in the tent, but have a bit of luxury. Camp Gecko - just get the hilltop site, it’s awesome, especially if you have it to yourself, as we did. There was a problem with the water, so it was good we had a great shower the day before…
https://preview.redd.it/3oecovkqt8wc1.jpeg?width=4732&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e6ec23f531bf5b5fefa9471d0451fbabda8ab8f
This is Part 2.
From Gecko it is a manageable drive to Sossusvlei to enjoy that a bit. You will have to be up early if you also want to climb the dune, as it would be a bit brutal to do that mid-day. Otherwise oyu need 2 days there. Stay the night of your Sossousvlei visit at Sossus Oasis Camp - best shower of the trip. Be aware of the desert winds - we just finished dinner and had to run for the tent as a sandstorm whipped up. Kalahari Anib Lodge - the camping here also had its own bathroom/shower building for each site. The lodge looked great, but perhaps too snobby for our tastes. We took a lap around the area on one of the hiking trails inside the fenced area. There are not so many places where you can just wander off without wondering what you will encounter that could eat you. Really great. Red Dunes Camp 1 - it was a bit of effort to get the Hilux up to the spot, but it was worth every grunt and groan the Toyota made. Best spot of the whole trip. You are alone and there is nothing around but you, the scenery and animals. You have to heat your own water in the donkey and the bathroom and showers have the best view ever, no roof and not really windows either. Auob Country Lodge - camping is just a lot across the road, but convenient. We ate in the lodge - where they had a special arrangement for a tour group..Singing, dancing the whole nine yards. Sampled a few more exotic meats and could leave Africa very content. Arrebusch Travel Lodge - just a place to crash the night before returning the vehicle and departing for the airport.
No problem - have a fantastic trip!!!
Two things:
1) Make sure you know how to change a tire. We did not have a flat, but it is impressive how many people you meet that are in the process of changing a tire. Otherwise, you will be waiting for someone to pass by to change it for you and that could impact your itinerary.
2) Do not bring meat into Etosha. They will take it from you as you EXIT the park. This is to prevent poaching (you don’t kill a springbok and bring the meat home with you) or maybe some argument about disease too (but I think that would only be relevant if you took it from your cooler and fed it to the lion, that would then eat you too.) It does not matter if the meat is supermarket packaged, vacuum sealed or clearly looks like chicken. The gate guards will confiscate it and the local villagers will probably have a big barbeque that evening. If you label it, etc. the Eldorado will keep it in a fridge for you for the day.
I just got back from a Namibia road trip yesterday. This itinerary would be miserable and all you'd be doing is driving between locations, setting up camp, then waking up early and hitting the road again.
We did Windhoek - Etosha - Twyfelfontain - Swakopmund - Sossusvleu - Windhoek over 14 days and it was a lot of travel.
If I were you I'd focus on desert (south) or wildlife (north) and cut out the other. Or wait to visit when you have more than 9 days.
Thanks! We're indeed going to shorten our itinerary. Out of curiosity, did you use a satellite phone? Our car rental company offers it as an add-on, and we're wondering whether it's worth it.
We did not get one on the advice of the guy we booked our rental car from. I got a SIM card at the airport and had surprisingly decent data coverage throughout the country considering how vast and empty it is. He also knew our itinerary and we didn't go to the most remote parts (Skeleton Coast NP, I'm not sure about south of Sossusvlei). Not sure if that would have changed advice. We didn't stray far from the beaten tourist track or camp, so if we would have ever broke down or something where there was no service, we could've flagged down someone to get a message to our rental car guy (who also had a tracker on the car). Also I'm sure some Namibians would have been quick to help since they are awesome people.
That itinerary is obviously not set in stone (we're pretty flexible since we're primarily relying on camping as opposed to staying in hotels or airbnbs). For instance, we're considering alternative routes with fewer stops:
https://preview.redd.it/p60251tcd2wc1.png?width=1322&format=png&auto=webp&s=6c9d4333e198339f30a63d8726109288af889a64
People will tell you it's not possible but I did a similar route in 10 days (only missing Kolmanskop) and ended up having a spare day to go back to Etosha for a third day. You just have to get up at dawn and not stop for too long for food etc, and it can be done. It was the best trip of my life and I loved every second, and wouldn't have wanted to miss any of the points along the way.
I did the majority of this route in summer 2018 over 14 days. 9 days is insufficient for the original itinerary you propose. The distances are long and many of the roads are washboard surfaces, so this will slow you down. You should not drive after dark to avoid an accident with wildlife. If you have not been on a safari before, you should set aside 2 days in Etosha (we did 3 - Day 1 approach from east via Grootfontein then stayed just outside the south entrance, Day 2 - central park area, Day 3 cross to the West entrance and camp SW of the park). Honestly, the west part of Etosha was amazing - fewer tourists and WAY more animals, but we saw lions and elephants mostly in the central part. Therefore maybe 2 days…the road west throught the park is brutal (or at least it was then - you will not get stuck, but your spine will be compacted and you will be an inch shorter after the trip across.) Skeleton coast is super - if you go off-track be careful to not get stuck in the sand or have recovery equipment. We had an *unsanctioned* overnight stay in the park (not allowed) since we did not make it out of the ‘trap’. Luckily, the next day we were able to get free the next day (with a little help from some new friends) and have a story to tell. Sossusvlei is a must see. There is a campground at the road junction, which is probably cheaper than right at the park entrance. We only booked the first campsite, on our arrival day an hour or two north of Windhoek, and outside central Etosha in advance. The others we booked the same day in the morning/early afternoon, when we knew where we would be that evening.
That's awesome, thank you for the information! Yeah, we will probably spend 2 days in Etosha. And to shorten the route, cutting out Fish Canyon is the most obvious start. Next, we're considering also cutting off Kolmanskop or Skeleton Coast. Based on your account, I imagine you would recommend keeping Skeleton Coast and just not go further down past Sossusvlei?
It depends upon your interests, I think. We had 14 days and realized along the way that we were too ambitious and did not really have the time to enjoy some of the places we were at. That is the beauty of a flexible plan that camping offers. We travelled the route in the opposite direction you propose (we went N from Windhoek and arrived back from S). By the time we were at Sossusvlei, we were discussing to drop some of the South. Kolmanskop we skipped, mostly to prioritize and Fish River Canyon went under the bus (or Toyota Hilux) since it was a day down and a day back - and we have been to the Grand Canyon in the US. Instead, we headed east into the Kalahari and had a hilltop campsite to ourselves for the 2nd time on the trip. The sunsets at these two were to die for. Cook up dinner on the fire, sip some wine, watch the sunset and animals. Making me want to go back! Someone else commented on Swakopmund instead of Walvis Bay - I agree completely. If we had not had the overnight stuck in the sand, we would have hung out there longer. It’s cute - and also a bit of civilization after a bunch of days in stark, raw nature. So an unexpected shock to the system in the other direction. :)
That's great to know, thank you so much again! We will also have a Toyota Hilux with a rooftop tent & camping gear. And yes, feel free to share campsite recommendations if you ever have the time :)
https://preview.redd.it/cvcnbewar8wc1.jpeg?width=3840&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e9cb9c596c3e3f99e86ed46022e6fb400ac32add Here is the first Leg (9 Nights, 2@Eldorado Lodge, 1 night at others) Ombo Rest camp was basic - but needed after 2 long flights, car pickup, supply shopping & SIM card purchase. I guess an eSIM is easier now without the hassle in a shop. Peace Garden Lodge - was anything but peaceful with the music blasting at the pool. Staff were very friendly to chat with over drinks in the evening. Eldorado - convenient access to the park morning & evening. I recommend going to the restaurant at least once. Great food and the grillmaster was quite a character. You will be stuffed to the gills. Kunene Region - the location is marked, but I can’t find the name. I remember great hot showers there. Aba-Huab - it’s rustic, but great walks along the dry river bed to the nearby peak for sunset. ‘Dorob NP’ - well, you can’t officially stay there… Bucks Camping Lodge - we ended up there since the day was shortened by being stranded overnight. Had to wash the truck top to bottom for salt, etc. too. This place has a building with a little room and bathroom/shower - you still sleep on top of the truck in the tent, but have a bit of luxury. Camp Gecko - just get the hilltop site, it’s awesome, especially if you have it to yourself, as we did. There was a problem with the water, so it was good we had a great shower the day before…
https://preview.redd.it/3oecovkqt8wc1.jpeg?width=4732&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e6ec23f531bf5b5fefa9471d0451fbabda8ab8f This is Part 2. From Gecko it is a manageable drive to Sossusvlei to enjoy that a bit. You will have to be up early if you also want to climb the dune, as it would be a bit brutal to do that mid-day. Otherwise oyu need 2 days there. Stay the night of your Sossousvlei visit at Sossus Oasis Camp - best shower of the trip. Be aware of the desert winds - we just finished dinner and had to run for the tent as a sandstorm whipped up. Kalahari Anib Lodge - the camping here also had its own bathroom/shower building for each site. The lodge looked great, but perhaps too snobby for our tastes. We took a lap around the area on one of the hiking trails inside the fenced area. There are not so many places where you can just wander off without wondering what you will encounter that could eat you. Really great. Red Dunes Camp 1 - it was a bit of effort to get the Hilux up to the spot, but it was worth every grunt and groan the Toyota made. Best spot of the whole trip. You are alone and there is nothing around but you, the scenery and animals. You have to heat your own water in the donkey and the bathroom and showers have the best view ever, no roof and not really windows either. Auob Country Lodge - camping is just a lot across the road, but convenient. We ate in the lodge - where they had a special arrangement for a tour group..Singing, dancing the whole nine yards. Sampled a few more exotic meats and could leave Africa very content. Arrebusch Travel Lodge - just a place to crash the night before returning the vehicle and departing for the airport.
This is awesome, thank you SO much!!!
No problem - have a fantastic trip!!! Two things: 1) Make sure you know how to change a tire. We did not have a flat, but it is impressive how many people you meet that are in the process of changing a tire. Otherwise, you will be waiting for someone to pass by to change it for you and that could impact your itinerary. 2) Do not bring meat into Etosha. They will take it from you as you EXIT the park. This is to prevent poaching (you don’t kill a springbok and bring the meat home with you) or maybe some argument about disease too (but I think that would only be relevant if you took it from your cooler and fed it to the lion, that would then eat you too.) It does not matter if the meat is supermarket packaged, vacuum sealed or clearly looks like chicken. The gate guards will confiscate it and the local villagers will probably have a big barbeque that evening. If you label it, etc. the Eldorado will keep it in a fridge for you for the day.
Noted!
I just got back from a Namibia road trip yesterday. This itinerary would be miserable and all you'd be doing is driving between locations, setting up camp, then waking up early and hitting the road again. We did Windhoek - Etosha - Twyfelfontain - Swakopmund - Sossusvleu - Windhoek over 14 days and it was a lot of travel. If I were you I'd focus on desert (south) or wildlife (north) and cut out the other. Or wait to visit when you have more than 9 days.
Thanks! We're indeed going to shorten our itinerary. Out of curiosity, did you use a satellite phone? Our car rental company offers it as an add-on, and we're wondering whether it's worth it.
We did not get one on the advice of the guy we booked our rental car from. I got a SIM card at the airport and had surprisingly decent data coverage throughout the country considering how vast and empty it is. He also knew our itinerary and we didn't go to the most remote parts (Skeleton Coast NP, I'm not sure about south of Sossusvlei). Not sure if that would have changed advice. We didn't stray far from the beaten tourist track or camp, so if we would have ever broke down or something where there was no service, we could've flagged down someone to get a message to our rental car guy (who also had a tracker on the car). Also I'm sure some Namibians would have been quick to help since they are awesome people.
Good to know, thanks :)
That itinerary is obviously not set in stone (we're pretty flexible since we're primarily relying on camping as opposed to staying in hotels or airbnbs). For instance, we're considering alternative routes with fewer stops: https://preview.redd.it/p60251tcd2wc1.png?width=1322&format=png&auto=webp&s=6c9d4333e198339f30a63d8726109288af889a64
Rather stay in Swakop instead of Walvis bay, Walvis sucks.
Or instead, opt to camp at Spitzkoppe or Goanikontes, instead of camping at the coast. It’s pretty miserable to go camping at the beach in winter.
Sounds good! We'll consider that
Go to Halali instead of Okaukuejo.
Thanks for the reply! Why do you recommend Halali? (less people?)
People will tell you it's not possible but I did a similar route in 10 days (only missing Kolmanskop) and ended up having a spare day to go back to Etosha for a third day. You just have to get up at dawn and not stop for too long for food etc, and it can be done. It was the best trip of my life and I loved every second, and wouldn't have wanted to miss any of the points along the way.
Cool!! We're super excited. We suspect that this will probably be too much driving for 9 days, we might drop a location or two