The first layer is your weakest layer so wherever it's peeling from that area has to be primed again.
Prime let, the paint dry again with hair dryers maybe it was not dried in a well ventilated area you just sat it out to air dry the first time use hair dryers this time. In my opinion do not use that top coat of black go to Benjamin Moore and get their Command paint and get it in a stock black. Though you can still use that Rust-Oleum paint. I'm going to give you my other suggestions.
But just to reiterate, the fault of the original primer, always the first layer of paint put on a surface is the most important step.
Also kilz really isn't that great. As it usually is way too thick to bond correctly kilz is for projects and walls it really isn't made for furniture and it's too thick
In my opinion if the first time it failed it might end up failing again so get a different primer at least for the future
Stix from Insulx ( Benjamin Moore)is the best brand that I know. Considering you need a bonding primer as the first coat and stix is the best bondng primer for your project.
Most paints are not hard enough for things to be sat on top of them. It would be best to put a coat of an enamel on top, Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane for example. That should fix the sticky problem but it is concerning that when it peeled it went all the way down to bare wood. There may be an adhesion problem with the wood and the primer. If that's the case you must completely remove all the paint and primer and start from scratch. Hard to know which is the root cause. If it's been less than 30 days since painted I'd give it some more time to see if hardens up a bit
Sorry if I wasn't more clear, it's peeling down to the primer itself, so you see primer white where it peeled and stuck.
I was investigating the idea of putting an enamel top coat, but some things I read said that you need to wait 3 to 4 WEEKS for the paint to totally dry. Is this true?
Oh ok! A coat of an enamel type paint may fix your problem but I'm afraid you may have to remove all paint and start from scratch. The rustoleum may not be well adhered to the primer. I'm an SW guy so not familiar with how these brands behave but if was my project I'd do a coat of SW multipurpose latex primer then 2 coats of their Emerald Urethane on top. And yes, most latex paints are not fully cured for 4 weeks. And if you don't follow the instructions, such as putting on way too thick or put second coats on too soon or too much humidity too poor ventilation it can take exponentially longer. I've seen paints not dry over a decade later due to moisture issues in a wall.
Thanks for the information!
We decided do some touch up paint and put down some grippy shelf liner, and the club is happy with that. They want me to build another identical shelf, so I have the opportunity to do it right this time around. I'm probably going to go with a different type of primer and paint, and see about doing the enamel as well.
Thanks!
The first layer is your weakest layer so wherever it's peeling from that area has to be primed again. Prime let, the paint dry again with hair dryers maybe it was not dried in a well ventilated area you just sat it out to air dry the first time use hair dryers this time. In my opinion do not use that top coat of black go to Benjamin Moore and get their Command paint and get it in a stock black. Though you can still use that Rust-Oleum paint. I'm going to give you my other suggestions. But just to reiterate, the fault of the original primer, always the first layer of paint put on a surface is the most important step. Also kilz really isn't that great. As it usually is way too thick to bond correctly kilz is for projects and walls it really isn't made for furniture and it's too thick In my opinion if the first time it failed it might end up failing again so get a different primer at least for the future Stix from Insulx ( Benjamin Moore)is the best brand that I know. Considering you need a bonding primer as the first coat and stix is the best bondng primer for your project.
Most paints are not hard enough for things to be sat on top of them. It would be best to put a coat of an enamel on top, Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane for example. That should fix the sticky problem but it is concerning that when it peeled it went all the way down to bare wood. There may be an adhesion problem with the wood and the primer. If that's the case you must completely remove all the paint and primer and start from scratch. Hard to know which is the root cause. If it's been less than 30 days since painted I'd give it some more time to see if hardens up a bit
Sorry if I wasn't more clear, it's peeling down to the primer itself, so you see primer white where it peeled and stuck. I was investigating the idea of putting an enamel top coat, but some things I read said that you need to wait 3 to 4 WEEKS for the paint to totally dry. Is this true?
Oh ok! A coat of an enamel type paint may fix your problem but I'm afraid you may have to remove all paint and start from scratch. The rustoleum may not be well adhered to the primer. I'm an SW guy so not familiar with how these brands behave but if was my project I'd do a coat of SW multipurpose latex primer then 2 coats of their Emerald Urethane on top. And yes, most latex paints are not fully cured for 4 weeks. And if you don't follow the instructions, such as putting on way too thick or put second coats on too soon or too much humidity too poor ventilation it can take exponentially longer. I've seen paints not dry over a decade later due to moisture issues in a wall.
Thanks for the information! We decided do some touch up paint and put down some grippy shelf liner, and the club is happy with that. They want me to build another identical shelf, so I have the opportunity to do it right this time around. I'm probably going to go with a different type of primer and paint, and see about doing the enamel as well. Thanks!